Titebond Original is the Best Instrument Glue.. see why right here.

[@MarkMcCluney]

There's nothing more convincing than a simple and uncomplicated demonstration. Thanks Earl, I enjoyed that.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

It is best when things are simple and intuitive. I think.

[@MosheAlvarez]

FINALLY...a perfect demonstration on the differences between all the different types of Titebond glues. I've been using Titebond II for my fret installations and was about to try Titebond III but now I'll be going to the original Titebond. Thank you very much Earl for this fine video!

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thank you for responding. I had hoped this clip would help someone a little bit. the results of the test are what I expected, but not to such a drastic degree of difference.

[@raymitchell9736]

Hi Earl, as a hobbyist woodworker I saw your video with interest. That was a truly remarkable demonstration, I never saw anything like that nor would I have never thought about doing that test. Your logic makes 100% sense: Especially in your application it's all about sound conduction (is that the right term?) it is critical. However, for woodworking purposes, I use the blue Titebond II (TB-2) for my projects or if the project is going outdoors, Titebond III (TB-3). What you did in that short demonstration is make me question how these glues work! I think the purpose for the flexibility (rubbery consistency) of TB-2 and TB-3 is to make a connection to the wood and allow wood movement expansion and such... one thing about TB-3 is that it can leave a darker stain so I rarely use it only if it is an outdoor use project. Thanks a bunch for the video!

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thank you for the comment (response) Ray. Much appreciate your take on the glue applications. That is my belief also, that the TB2 and TB3 is designed to allow expansion and contraction without breaking the bond.

[@bradnail99]

Thank you, this was an illuminating demonstration of differences I never suspected. Looking back, I had noticed that Titebond 2 is a real mess to sand. So much of my woodwork needs to resist moisture (I don’t build instruments) that I’ve only used the TB2 and TB3 for decades now.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Yes I would think that TB2 and TB3 would be excellent for furniture since it would be more moisture and shock resistant.

[@MisterDivineAdVenture]

Howdy howdy! Very great insight there about vibration damping vs not.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thank you, I believe the demonstration backs up the thought.

[@confounder]

Very interesting, and conclusive. Valuable information, thank you.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thanks! 👍🙂

[@sorinhasu5428]

thanks, very good demonstration.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

You are welcome, thank you for commentng.

[@andronikostheophilos]

Well, the Original Titebond you recommended has worked well for me when I repaired the lifting bridge on my BR-140A. Since I last wrote you about it, with a few more truss rod adjustments, the dull sounding high E string is now OK. The more I have played it, the better it is sounding. The sustain has improved, or at least my "guitar hypochondria" has gone away so I perceive it as better! Whatever, I am now pleased with the instrument. I certainly appreciate your advice and videos like this! Thank you Earl! BTW - I may be a lousy guitar player, but I do understand the "physics" of sound. As you point out, a rubbery glue is not going to be as effective in conducting vibrations from the strings to the saddle to the bridge to the top of the guitar to get lovely sound. It would actually act as a dampener. It would defeat the whole purpose in using a dense "bone" saddle and dense hard rosewood bridge to efficiently transmit vibrations to the guitar top so it can vibrate.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

That clip of the glue string sagging down just about gets it said doesn't it? It sometimes takes several days for a guitar to settle into its final sound after a major repair like a bridge removal and replacement. It is more likely than not to take some time.

[@tonypike5785]

Thats a fair test for what your using the glue for, the one on the end with the green label might be good to seal the tubeless tire on my golf cart.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Yes it would probably be better for that than building a guitar or mandolin.

[@dewaynegilliam7795]

PLAIN TALK IS EASY TO UNDERSTAND! Thank you sir!

[@earlelfrink]

You are welcome! Thank you for the comment!

[@dewaynegilliam7795]

@@earlelfrink and thank you for being plain and simple. I’m plain and simple myself and wish more were too. God bless!

[@earlelfrink]

@@dewaynegilliam7795 Thanks! 👍🙂

[@jamessellards2900]

Great test Earl, I'm impressed Titebond has put the effort into developing these different glues for different uses, seems like some companies would just make the same glue a different color and sell it in 4 different bottles Lol. Would be interesting to also compare the original to fish glue and hide glue. One thing I've also heard but never tested is the original has the least amount of swell and makes for a more invisible glue line than the other three, I've always wanted to test that. I very much appreciate the way you can get the original apart when repairs are needed, I tried to steam apart a customer guitar that was built with ultimate once and it was a miserable experience. To me hide glue is just as good as Titebond original and both can be taken apart if needed so I like them both. I prefer the longer working window Titebond original offers over hide glue though. Thanks for the test 👍👍

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Yes, i agree on all the points you make in your comment. I am sure there are instances where the premium and ultimate would be a better glue. Because of their flexibility they would have better shock resistance. And i like the way hide glue sets up brittle and stiff but I am not comfortable with the set time it has. So the original is my favorite. I had not thought about the aspect of swelling. that probably deserves some attention and maybe experimentation.

[@GEYSERFILMS2024]

Thank you sir for sharing your insight, I was about to glue the top back on my taylor after a drop popped it lose. Now I know which glue to use and why. Stay Wild.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

I'm glad the video helped!!!!!

[@guestguide2544]

Very good information presentation.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thank you!

[@samuelwilliams2245]

Good stuff

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thanks for the visit

[@peterjames2580]

Nice test!

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thank you Peter!

[@paulcrawford5153]

my wife prefers that one or the translucent one too she said. boom boom! (basil brush quote)

[@peterschmidt9942]

Very interesting test, I never really thought that much into it. Although I thought the whole point of using hide glues was that with heat and steam they'd soften up to make instrument repairs easier? Like fixing broken necks on Gibsons 😂🤣. Maybe a follow up video on their repair qualities? At the end of the day, it's using the right glue for the job. One might be better than another for a particular task - like original/clear for general building where you don't want it to come apart and the more flexible glues for neck joints, acoustic bridges and acoustic tops?

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

I could be wrong but I thought that the higher priced special edition guitars were being made with hide glue again because it supposedly produced a better sounding instrument..

[@peterschmidt9942]

@@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732 Maybe with acoustic it may? I very much doubt it has any bearing on electrics (other than the repairability). I reckon all the ones coming from China would be using PVA.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

@@peterschmidt9942 I believe that's right. It probably doesn't matter much on electrics especially solid bodies. and there is no telling what kind of adhesives the Chinese guitars have in them.

[@peterschmidt9942]

@@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732 PVA (to a certain extend) can be broken down with moisture (steam) to help in the aid of repair too. Although I'd probably be weary of the Titebond Exterior as that would have moisture preventatives added I'd imagine. I'm pretty sure Titebond also do a fish glue which might be worth a shot? Maybe you could do a test glueing two pieces of timber together and see how easy it is to get them apart again? It's hard to find the range of Titebond here in Australia as most major chains only sell a selected few if at all.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

@@peterschmidt9942 I was at a big home improvement store yesterday and I believe that I counted 6 different Titebond glues on their shelves. They have added a couple that are new to me recently. There have been several videos made by different people using very good methods for testing the actual strength of the bonds. I don't think I could add any thing to what has already been done, but I might try some more glues on the flexibilty tests, because i haven't seen that done to any extent. I am beginning to think that the flex factor has a significant effect on sound of acoustic instruments.

[@rodneyeftink4864]

Is the translucent what they call hide glue...or is that a different animal?

[@rodneyeftink4864]

Also..the theory makes perfect sense!

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

@@rodneyeftink4864 The translucent glue is just a white version of the yellow as far as i know. All four of the glues shown here are known as polyvinyl acetate glues or PVA for short. Hide glue is actually made from animal hides, hoofs and proteins. It was used by the early violin in the 1700's and even in present times. I have a can of the crystal hide glue in my shop. It was used in guitar manufacturing until the middle 1960's and then they switched over to the PVA's.

[@rogerboucher1913]

And the hide glue is brittle also.

[@rodneyeftink4864]

@@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732 good to know. Thanks!

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

@@rodneyeftink4864 👍🙂

[@ECwashr]

What about an electric guitar with a crack right near where the neck bolts on the body?? What glue wld you recommend Sir?? The crack is on the body of the guitar.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

that depends on the nature of the crack....if it is a tight crack, (no gap), I would use thin cyanoacrylate (super glue). But some experience is necessary to prevent a bad scene. You could use a toothpick to transfer the glue to the crack one small drop at a time. I have seen valuable guitars ruined with super glue spills, so some care is needed. I have had good sucess with this method using a tiny metal spatula; squirting some glue into a soda bottle cap and keeping the glue bottle away from the guitar body. Then filling the crack drop by drop with the toothpick..... If the crack is wide and has to be clamped, I would use titebond original. work it in good, clamp it tight then wipe away the excess. hope this helps you!

[@ECwashr]

​@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732 thank you so much for your reply, I appreciate it...

[@leannasummerlin9785]

The original will come loose with heat and water better as well according to Jerry Rosa. He uses three for joints that never ever need to come apart.

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

I agree, that has been my experience as well.

[@jaygraham5554]

I have seen titebond II dry extremely hard

[@earlsinstrumentsandtunes9732]

Thanks for commenting!