TKO600 Install (Part 1)

[@GearBoxVideo]

Eric, thanks for the mention in your video. Wish I could have been there to help on the install. All the best, Paul

[@ericthecarguy]

I was missing you, but I tried to channel your intellect. Well, the best I could. Thanks for everything Paul. You've been a tremendous help during this entire build.

[@johnivkovich8655]

You need to start wearing shirts that say "A. Priori".

[@s10manual]

Yesterday, I said to my friend, I refuse to watch youtube videos that are longer than 7 minutes. Today, I watched intently through this entire video. You, sir, please continue providing us with this amazing, entertaining, and informative videos. Watching your process is fantastic.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thanks for the view. I really appreciate it.

[@tnyleo]

Eric the reason the arp bolts say a lower torque is becuase of the lubricant they use allow the bolt to achieve a higher clamping load without as much torque being applied. Uhaul is the same way with their lug nuts on the trucks, they have us lubricate the lug nuts and a slightly lower torque than factory becuase of that higher clamp load achieved.

[@aserta]

Huh, never knew that. That's good stuff, since if all goes right in theory it prolongs the life of the bolt and wards it from shearing. Per unit.

[@cremedeju]

it still stretches by the same amount, but there is less friction so less torque is required, doubt it extends the life, but yes will help stop the head from shearing off

[@ericthecarguy]

I did not know that. Thanks.

[@aussiebloke609]

At the least, it'll help keep the bolts from seizing in place...that's always good for potential repairs later in it's life. After all, rust on the threads will mess up the torque needed to get the correct stretch next time they have to be installed.:-)

[@AndWhat11]

you are correct because at least 40% of torque is lost due to firction and if you lubricate threads then it reduces friction therefor achieving a higher clamping force.

[@SteveM000100]

Great video as always Eric, I like it when you identify a problem (that oil sitting near the crank seal) and then you cut away quick to explain what the problem was once you've identified it later.

[@danieljohnson1449]

That Fairmont is going to be a total beast! Thanks for sharing this project and showing us how to do something like this right.

[@dirtyford633]

I used Modern Driveline for a C4 to TKO600 conversion in my 70 Mustang and I love them. Their customer service is great. They noticed the driveshaft length that I sent was a little out of their expected range. The MDL rep walked through the measurements with me and we confirmed they were right, but the fact that they checked with me really made me feel like I was dealing with a great company.

[@laynesamba]

I totally wanna see a backyard build on the mustang done cheaply.

[@wheelerdealer7098]

Layne Brown Eric's doing that on the fairmont.... just not cheaply

[@ericthecarguy]

I like that idea.

[@infiltr8infiltr8]

Yea that would be awesome Eric .. please pickup this idea ;)

[@commodore665]

good call , there would be a a multitude of things you could do to the mustang as a budget build , heaps of bolt on mods are out there for the weekend mechanics like me to get some tips from .Funny thing as about the mints thing , I get a hand full of hard lollies , (candy ) in my car after it gets a service or any kind of work done to it too .

[@smcic]

I would also like to see Eric do this!

[@andrewwills8767]

As per the ARP instructions you're supposed to use loctite 242 thread locker on the flywheel bolt threads and the lube ONLY on the face that contacts the flywheel. I use thread locker on my pressure plate bolts too.

[@GalacticPonage]

On the piece of paper with the pressure plate bolts it said "Torque with arp lube"

[@lloydbeebe]

Joe Christopher I'm glad I'm not the only one who saw that.

[@aussiebloke609]

Ditto.

[@TheMarcusGomez]

ikr, and... 26:53 what does #4 say eric? lol

[@jasonyoung6420]

I love building cars with a "budget" in mind... tend to blow past that "budget" number real quick, but hey, there was a budget ;-)

[@ericthecarguy]

Yea, I left the 'budget' behind long ago. Right after I said the word 'turbo'.

[@eyalrud3]

That's usually how it goes down, Boost=$$$

[@chvella]

Budgets are like rules meant to be broken otherwise it's not fun. lol

[@TheJOHNGRANT1]

International "hit your head on stuff" is for real I cracked my head on my truck door! Thanks Eric lol

[@lobmin]

I just caught up with youtube videos again and I just have to say that I really like this build. Finally there's someone building a _real_ sleeper. Often when people build "sleepers", they still put revealing wheels on there and other details that give it away. It's also cool that you're keeping things mechanical and simple, like going for a blow-through carb set up for a performance turbo engine. It'll be interesting too see how well it performs and possibly prove the "digital crowd" wrong.

[@matthewskaggs3792]

I just love how it started off as a clean decent car with an okay fox and ill swap stuff over to full on MM suspension and now a TKO...I love how projects snow ball! my comet started with a leaky water pump that lead to the motor being pulled, putting all new modern suspension in, disc breaks all around, EFI....gears...I miss that car. These videos however have taken on a new life for me as I am looking for a foxbody with good parts to swap over into a fairmont/zephyr. I also got all my stuff from Modern Driveline to inlcude a hydro set up and it was the best thing ever.

[@50sKid]

It might not have been lithium grease on the flywheel bolts. Could have been liquid teflon tape. On some cranks (like BMW) the holes are drilled through and need sealer, otherwise--oil leaks.

[@peu6ab]

Hey Eric, I would just like to say thank you for making such high quality videos.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank YOU for the comment.

[@wwaazzaapp2]

Eric if you need to hold flex plates/fly wheels in place, take one bolt and run it through the bottoms of an adjustable wrench and bolt it to an opening in the plate. Then take a bellhousing plate and thread that in. Finally slip the open end of the wrench onto the bellhousing bolt. The wrench will stop the plate from turning since the bolt is in the way. Hope this helps

[@wildbill23c]

Great video Eric. You should really build that mustang with nothing but salvage yard parts, yeah it would be more work, but I think it would be kind of interesting to see how things go together on it and the frustrations that come with bringing an unknown part into the mix.

[@travisreimers2]

One way to keep the flywheel from turning without a specialty tool is to use a short piece of chain and one bolt in one of the clutch bolt holes and one bolt in the bolt holes where the bell housing is bolted too. Works for every engine that I've ever ran into. ☺

[@Joe11Blue]

Just in case you didn't know. Welding a bead around the edge of the turbo charge pipes also improves the clamping at higher boost pressures.

[@thehappybuilder7034]

i like how organized and clutter free your shop is...

[@anomamos9095]

If you don't want a flywheel to rust but can't use a protectant due to the clutch plate TRY this put a lite coat of used motor oil over the surface and burn it off with a torch leaving a dry carbon residue behind. This will help prevent rust but will not affect the friction material. the first time you slip the clutch it will wear off. Was that new center bushing pre lubed? I was always told to soak them in oil before fitting and never use grease.

[@ericthecarguy]

That's a great idea. No lube on the bushing as instructed.

[@mannys9130]

How about cleaning it with brake cleaner, drying thoroughly, and then "smoking" it with an acetylene torch turned down very low? If you've used an acetylene torch you know what I mean by "smoking" it since that soot makes a nice coating.

[@mannys9130]

Also, the pilot bushing is most likely Oilite bronze which is very porous by design. The bushing is made, then impregnated with oil under a vacuum. The pores retain the oil and it's lubed "for the life of the bushing."

[@visheshbhargava7856]

Normal range of dibties

[@Ajicles]

Anyone else see that meme of the "Iconic duo". I believe Eric and the Fairmont are the most iconic duo.

[@AdMiRaLeDpIeTt]

FairicTheCarGuy or Ermont?

[@frederickburns1739]

Eric glad you to use the bolt spec. recommended ! (six point vs twelve point head strength ???bolt stretch!!!) Also the pilot bushing is not totally brass; it is a oil lite bushing. ( it is infused with oil) Look up Never Seize torque spec; quite different between dry and lubed!!! I've been in big engines ( 855 &bigger cu.in.) for about fifty years. I enjoy your channel. Fred said it

[@ArchimedeanEye]

32:43 says "torque with ARP lube"

[@ArchimedeanEye]

Good video Eric! I do the same thing with marking flywheel position or cam or main caps - even when not required - just for peace of mind to KNOW where I am fitting them without any chance of stuffing it up. Dropping a flywheel or catching it mid air and cutting yourself is no fun. Sheesh you must have some dollars in this build by now... SO many new parts!

[@ericthecarguy]

Oh, I've spent way too much money. You haven't seen the new suspension yet. That said, I love doing this. I'm learning quite a bit. I actually think building a car has made me a better mechanic. I see things with different eyes now. Thanks for the comment.

[@ArchimedeanEye]

Very true, sometimes I forget this is the first time you have built a car like this.... Seeing with different eyes is an apt way to describe the difference between repair compared with design and then fabrication. You were always a creative repairer, so it's as if all of this was meant to be for you. All told, this is indeed turning out to be a killer build. My only gripe with this video is that it went too quick.

[@jayyoutube8790]

Man that turbo took this build to another level..

[@Haloruler64]

Eric, the ARP instructions say to put the ARP lube under the head of the fastener! This lessens friction during final torque down. Loctite goes on the threads so they don't vibrate loose, you should probably redo those as that could be a serious problem.

[@JuiceSpringsteen88]

Dima Aryeh That's what I recall from installing the flywheel on my truck. Lubricant under the head of the fastener, loctite on the threads. Lubricant on the threads seems like a bad idea.

[@TheMarcusGomez]

Dima Aryeh yup at 26:53 #4

[@wheelerdealer7098]

I thought when you torque you use a constant motion not a jerk???

[@WheatSn4ckBread]

Just for anyone scrolling past and curious about why no grease on the pilot bushing. It's probably an oil impregnated bushing, so it's self lubricating. They're used pretty often in industrial applications.

[@draggonhedd]

Eric: You can make a flywheel stop with a standard boxend wrench and two bolts. Stick one bolt in the flywheel, and one in the bellhousing bolt hole. Put the wrench over both bolts and turn the flywheel so it compresses the wrench. There your flywheel is locked.

[@ericthecarguy]

Great idea! Thanks for the tip.

[@TheOverisel]

Your Fairmont should run deep into the 11s high 10s with that power and torque. Awesome!

[@ericthecarguy]

That's just what I'm hoping for. After the transmission I go to work on the rear suspension to make that very thing happen.

[@matthew53690]

cant wait to watch this later. been trying to get the hang of transmissions latley.

[@TheBrownGarage]

i may be off here, but i used the arp pressure plate and crankshaft flywheel bolts for 300hp turbo b18, i put the blue locktite they specified on the threads and only put the arp molly on the bolt face that would rub the flywheel/Pplate while tourqing down

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

33:05 - Who thought of Vanilla Ice? I thought of Queen "Under pressure". It was appropriate. And now I'll have to look that up and listen to it again....happens every time, darnit!

[@Fordman7575]

I always use red Loctite on flywheel bolts and blue Loctite on pressure plate bolts. Those bolts can do some major damage if they come out. And at the very least it's a P.I.T.A. to have to tear it back down if they come loose. Oh yea and if your flywheel bolt holes in the crankshaft aren't blind holes. You might want to be safe and pull your drain plug before you fill the engine with oil. With all the degreaser you were spraying in them I would make sure none of it's in the pan before you add the oil. Also I highly recommend going thru the hassle of centering the steel bellhousing. If it's off and you are lucky the transmission will be hard to install. If you are unlucky it could end up damaging the clutch or transmission parts. Just because all the parts are new doesn't mean they are all going to line up perfect. You are dealing with a bunch of different manufactures. You've got a lot of nice expensive parts there. Why not spend the extra time and make sure it's all good. Just throwing things together and saying they are new parts so everything will be fine. It reminds me of the guys that build engines and say they don't need to check clearances because they are new parts and they'll be fine. Then a couple weeks later they are pulling the engines again, because of a spun bearing or broken piston ring land This is a very cool build. I just want to see you enjoying it when it's finished and not having to tear it back down. I can't wait to see you tearing up some asphalt with this beast!

[@ericthecarguy]

You make a good point, but everything did go together fine without issues. If problems come up later I'll be sure to address them. Thanks for your input.

[@ericthecarguy]

And the engine already has oil in it from the dyno run.

[@Fordman7575]

If that's the case, if it was me, I'd change the oil before running it. But I get a little paranoid about stuff like that. My way of thinking is new oil is a whole lot cheaper then a new engine. And I'm really hoping you decide to redo your intercooler piping. It would be so much simpler, cleaner and shorter tubing runs to go from the turbo into the passenger side of the intercooler. Then out the driverside of the intercooler. Then up the driver side of the engine and into the carb. The added benefit to that is you aren't heat soaking the tube going into the carb nearly as much. Even with the heat shield on the turbine housing there is going to be a lot of heat in that area. I know the reason you routed it the way you did. But if you can route it the other way I think you'll be happier in the end. You might want to also add a bead to all the intercooler tubing that doesn't have it. Roughing up the ends may help some but it won't keep them from blowing apart under boost. And having to reassemble things gets old after 3 or 4 times of it blowing apart. You can make a simple tool to add the bead. You don't need the expensive bead roller. Take a old or cheap pair of vice grips. Grind or file a receiver groove into the top jaw. Then weld a small piece of round bar stock or a shoulder area of a bolt on the bottom jaw( the width of the jaw ). Make sure the groove in the upper jaw matches the size of the piece on the lower jaw. Then use that in the end of the tubing to crimp a bead into it. Just work your way around the tubing. It works, it's not as pretty as what the bead roller will do. But it works for a whole lot less cash. And thank you for not swapping a LS engine into the Fairmont!!

[@SaxCass]

17:43 the sensor retainer is bolted upside down!

[@79DJB]

Why didn't you tighten the flywheel bolts in a offset "star" pattern like wheel nuts? When doing my flywheel i drilled 2 holes in a piece of 4" long flat bar. bell housing bolt in 1 end and pressure plate bolt in the other. way easier to torque up.

[@Ottonic6]

I didn't think a manual trans. had a bell housing. But that is why I watch these videos

[@Phoxtane]

A little late now, but can you potentially throw some of those silica dessicant packages into the bell housing to deal with any moisture while the car sits? You'd have to remember to remove them, of course.

[@12fireshadow]

Bad ass bro you are helping me a lot by teaching me as a young mechanic I’m working on my 93 fox

[@robertwoodall4330]

Hi Eric, in terms of finding different torque/lube specs online, it may be better to use the one that was written more recently. An article online can be as old as the 90s, with even older physical archives being transcribed and uploaded to the internet as well. And as I'm sure you know, 'what works' in the automotive world is subject to change over the years due to new research or cheaper alternatives. You can't always find out when something was written, and of course just because it was POSTED then doesn't mean the information was correct even at that time, but it might help in terms of deciding either way. This was just a thought that I felt like sharing since I spend a lot of time on the internet. The spec sheets you from the manufacturer might be what they had to do to make it work, but might not be how things were specified by the engineers or an original research paper. Anyway, I loved the video and I'm really glad we're seeing these Fairmont videos! (Or maybe the manufacturer wants it to break so they can blame you and make you buy another one lol)

[@patw52pb1]

Most reputable manufacturers have the most recent recommendations and torque specs on their official website along with contact info. Always go with the fastener manufacturer's recommendations and specs and if there are questions contact their technical/engineering support line/email to get the correct answer for your specific application.

[@robertwoodall4330]

That is generally the way to go and I trust Eric either way on the matter. Although I personally believe that manufacturers can make mistakes *cough Takata* but outside of that, there's also certain others you can trust. Like the engineers themselves, the people that actually have the degree and not just the ones who get paid to write numbers on paper. I'm not saying one SHOULDN'T always stick with the manufacturer-specified info...just personally, I'd trust Eric before I'd trust Honda. Planned obsolescence is a real thing. Not always bad, but often apparent. But really I was just speaking in terms of information that is found online because I'm kinda like Rob the computer guy I hope my comment doesn't sound negative towards what you said, just expressing the opinion a bit further. (also its 3:30 am) BYE PAT

[@patw52pb1]

+Robert Woodall Actually Eric has the answer on the literature that came with the fasteners he was using from ARP at 32.34 he just missed it, notice the text in the upper right hand box [TORQUE W/ARP LUBE]. The other torque value was using different fasteners from another manufacturer. Everyone makes mistakes and or can be mistaken, even myself and Eric. Granted there are some websites with old info, however my personal and business experience with ARP has been stellar, they are very conscientious about getting their info and specs right. ARP has a reputation to uphold and is a specified fastener supplier cited in the rule books of FIA, Formula-1, NHRA, NASCAR, IndyCar and many other sanctioning bodies ans well as an aerospace supplier to NASA, Boeing, Lockheed, Hughes, Airbus, etc. ARP is one of a very few companies licensed by the US government to design, engineer and manufacture MS-21250 fatigue rated fasteners. ARP is not and does not operate like Honda, Takata or most any other manufacturer. Unfortunately reportedly evidence shows that Takata knew of the issues before there were any installed malfunctions and chose to do nothing until they were ordered to by the government. Personally I think that is criminal negligence by Takata. Yes, you usually have to be suspicious and carefully verify info you find online, especially on public forums, many times it is mostly personal opinion and often incorrect. I have been professionally involved in professional motorsports for more than 30 years as a multi-discipline engineer and I strive to learn something new every day. I learned a long time ago that anyone that says they know everything about a given subject is either deluded, mistake or an outright liar. ;) No problem, not negative at all, it has been a pleasant exchange. All the best, take care Robert and I will look forward to seeing you again around the wild wild web.

[@cameronwalcott9326]

Just finished watching the Full 1 Hour Version of the video, Great Video Eric! #ETCGPremiumMember

[@zx8401ztv]

Very enjoyable to watch, i can see you were enjoying the upgrade :-D. It's great that you had paul to help, you just can't beat having knowledgeable frends :-). I imagine if you did a lot of this type of work, you could weld up an old starter motor to fit and hold the flywheel stationary, or similar plan.

[@ericthecarguy]

Meh, the pry bar worked. I can't have ALL the tools. Thanks for your comments as always.

[@mrsabidji]

Cool video, Eric! Glad to hear slippage is normal on a ceramic-copper compound friction plate during the break-in period, I was worried I was doing something wrong with mine (but then, I always am). There was some serious slippage under peak torque, but I always kept it under the red line and never let it slip for long, intuitively, so apparently I'm good. The clutch will still make some noise a bit when putting my foot off the throttle at higher gears, but I heard that was to be expected on my particular type of friction plate (6 puck design, sprung, copper-ceramic friction material, not the same as yours, but comparable). Could you tell me how yours behave when you can finally drive it? It's all a bit like black magic to me at this point, and the info on the internet is all over the place in terms of what to do/expect. I'd really like to hear from a source I consider reliable. :)

[@katanamd]

Make sure the brillo and flywheel are made of the same material. You don't want any dissimilar metal corrosion from the particles left behind.

[@jasonelizanigel9381]

Man this shit never gets old! Love it

[@SuperSport01]

Hopefully your flywheel bolts don't leak oil into the bellhousing since you didn't use a teflon sealant or locktite. It looked like teflon sealant is what you cleaned from the crankshaft threads. The reason I'm mentioning this is because the flywheel bolts on small block Ford crankshafts go through into the crankcase. However a few aftermarket crankshafts have blind flywheel bolt holes so you could be alright.

[@drchaosrc724]

Omg glad you tube recommended you, great channel😃👍 very educational

[@ryanporras74]

The grease is for head of bolt only and the lock tight is for threads.

[@joelcr250]

*ERIC YOUR DOING IT RIGHT !!!*

[@JordyValentine]

When you said they make a tool to hold the flywheel I thought "Yeah, it's called a pry bar" minutes later you've got one haha. I used to work in a performance shop and we didn't even have one haha, pry bar every day

[@paulpoindexter4050]

I wish there was more explanation in regards to not using a polyurethane transmission mount. I was under the impression that polyurethane (engine) mounts was always the way to go. So why would the trans be different. Also, what material was recommend instead?

[@aussiebloke609]

There's an easy way to tell of that flywheel bolt grease is actually molybdenum disulphide. Just put a little on your fingertip, then scrub your hands for 30-60 mins. If you still feel greasy up to he elbows, it's moly grease. LOL

[@shannonsisk]

Awesome! I was wondering if you were going to use that T5. They are good transmissions, but fall short in strength compared to other units. Can't wait to see the finished car!

[@srothenberg07]

Sanding those charge pipes won't work with any significant boost. Tig a bead around the outside of each charge pipe where it gets inserted into the silicon coupler, that will do the trick if you don't have a bead roller.

[@emtscythe3782]

I apologize if someone already mentioned this, but I believe that is a Bronze bushing not a brass one.

[@SgtJStupid]

Always thought "throwing" the torque-wrench at 29:00 was a bad idea. Anyone want to argue that point?

[@randomsanwhich2]

Nothing like dragging this build out. Finish it !!!!

[@thestigsgermancousin4479]

on the paper for the pressure plate it said torque with arp lube, eric!!

[@Rickyboy707]

I raced a 65 Mustang (which I still have) back in the 70s. A steel scattershield (bellhousing) was required before you could race.

[@rustybrowneye]

Rickyboy707 its kinda neat u still have it

[@Rickyboy707]

Thanks. I bought it from the original owner in 1975.

[@TorqueEffect]

You can use Synchromesh in just about any manual transmission that calls for ATF. I currently run it in my BP swapped Festiva running the stock 5-speed.

[@benhenson3910]

We live and learn Eric. I still really enjoyed the t5 videos

[@ericthecarguy]

I enjoyed making them. I learned a lot and Paul is a really great guy.

[@NebukedNezzer]

On the engine/trans/differential swaps I have done. One thing was(with the car sitting on the suspension)Measure the angel of the transmission output shaft and the angle of the differential pinion shaft and be SURE they are Parallel. Its nice if they are inline as well but imperative that they at least be Parallel. Why? because the U joints are NOT constant velocity and the forces on them(if shafts are not parallel) are very high and will do things like bust the u joint during hard acceleration, as well as wear stuff out(like u joints) fast. Lots of raise kits etc that did not work out well. This got missed. I found out by doing. Back in 1962. I made this mistake and got vibration and busted u joint and ruined drive shaft yoke.

[@ericthecarguy]

Excellent point. I actually address that in a future video where I install the torque arm. Thanks for the comment.

[@moocow7590]

what is the clutch rated for it seems something with that much power would need a muti plate clutch. you are also a brave man for leaving a torque wrench just hanging on a bolt like that

[@SkullCappedWoW]

did the modern driveline swap with a t5 in my falcon. hydraulic system works great eric. you will enjoy it. ( 400hp 302)

[@KPearce57]

Why 144P video make you look out of focus? Good info. Can't wait for the 1st burnout

[@seanaudette1763]

HELP... Eric, my 2015 Nissan versa RPM needle jumps and car hesitates when changing gears. Can you tell me if it's the transmission or converter torque? Thanks for your knowledge

[@aserta]

Online consensus is on programming issues, confirm for yourself if the issues you have are the same as described in most forums (when searching for your car, model, year + problem).

[@dandel351]

Cool video Eric , I thought those clutch dowels needed to be pressed into the flywheel. Whats holding them in? Is it the outer rim of the clutch housing? So it looks like the T5 had a 28 spline output shaft and the TKO has a 35 spline or something like that.

[@CaptainRudy4021]

dandel351 the pressure plate holds them in place

[@dandel351]

Ok , cool. I've only put auto boxes behind ford v8's so far.

[@andjmarko]

Eric, sir, when will you get an episode of Fixing it Forward out? I really miss the series... Thank you! I'm a huge fan of your work. Be safe, have fun, stay dirty. :)

[@frankenstrat25]

hey eric, you probably wont read this, but when i do my rotations on fly wheels (i work on OTR rigs) i just put a bolt in the fly wheel and a bolt in the bell and put a chain there that links the 2, works great

[@ericthecarguy]

Great tip. Thanks!

[@Ottonic6]

That's a very busy right side of your engine. Looks so nice though.

[@jimwillenbrink8142]

Thanks, great video, gives me much more confidence when I install my TKO 500 :)

[@menow.]

What was the scraping sound when the engine turned as you torqued the flywheel bolts?

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

Eric, I still can't see how you can live with a GPS-only speedometer? What if there's an overcast day, and you don't get any sattelite signals? I mean, as an addition to the mechanical or digital speedo (from the transmission/wheel sensors), it's OK I guess, but as the only way to tell the speed you're travelling, it's just insufficient...

[@crashmavrick1076]

You can fill a cylinder with rope on the compression stroke to hold the crank.

[@TheMarcusGomez]

Crash Mavrick or water. water doesnt compress lol

[@CaptainRudy4021]

TheMarcusGomez or any liquid for that matter

[@Loebane]

TK0600 - why aren't you at your post?

[@Resistolitin]

Eric, you need M-4841-A which is the 31 spline yoke you need to mate your driveshaft to the TKO.

[@Palacios29]

Hey , great videos keep it up 👍, I have a 289 on a 61 ranchero , is it posible to use a T5 with a 289 ?

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

Where was the Loctite on the flywheel bolts? I only saw the lubricant...

[@megavern72]

For me, everyday is hit my head day, especially on my desk!

[@e.hellbrand9707]

couldent you use a shop towel(not one of the scott ones but an actual one.) to hold the flywheel in place?

[@chrismannifield3222]

Put a bell housing bolt in, and a pressure plate bolt in, use a wrench as a link to keep it from turning

[@TheTurpin1234]

Is it just other noises, or was the flywheel scraping against that spacer plate? Hope its not :0

[@sw96]

Pretty sure that spacer plate is just sitting on the dowels atm, once everything bolts up it shouldn't touch the flywheel anymore.

[@TheTurpin1234]

Alexander Klein wow I feel dumb lol

[@sw96]

No need to feel dumb, I was pretty concerned about the sound too, but since Eric wasn't worried I figured it was due to the plate not being bolted down yet.

[@TheTurpin1234]

Yea that Eric's a pretty smart dude

[@SuperSecretSquirell]

Was thinking the same thing.

[@trestonparris6917]

Super informative video but.....my favorite part had to be the Under Pressure reference!

[@colinstu]

31:30, very satisfying pop sound

[@BorisFett]

25:24 Well if I ever come across your phone ill know your pass code. I'm enjoying this video series, cant wait to see it completed.

[@Loebane]

Oh man, I know that pain - I used a strap wrench on the balancer to hold the engine in place.

[@rradioactiv]

I think the stang should be a do it at home without a lift budget build for the everyday Joe like buying the eBay stuff and then we could compare the difference berween the fairmont sleeper and the mustang budget in the end could be fun

[@ericthecarguy]

That's an excellent idea.

[@4lpower]

that arp lube might seal the lube u found on the old flywheel bolts was thread sealant 302s have the bolt holes in the crank drilled all the way though so if no sealant is used on the bolts u get a leak oil will leak around the threads and it makes u thank u have a rear main leak

[@humidbeing]

This project has dragged on long enough. Do you really need to split a simple manual gearbox install into multiple videos?

[@lynn_phoenix]

ERIC YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG. Just kidding but you did show the entry of your phone pin in the video so I recommend changing it. Really enjoying the videos.

[@rafarafita3005]

Eric where can I find and induction cleaner like the one you have hanging on top of your work bench .

[@ZRider3591]

Am i the only one who saw the instruction sheet with the flywheel bolts say coat the threads with loctite 242. And use the supplied lubricant under the head of the bolt. Not on the threads. I hate to say it but those bolts need to come back out.

[@voiceinthewilderness3128]

Will you need to increase traction with the hp Eric? aka - wider tires? really enjoying the fairmont project - this thing is SICK

[@ericthecarguy]

Better suspension coming soon!

[@voiceinthewilderness3128]

love it Eric - thx 4 sharing this project

[@ck4492]

You need a yoke off a C6 trans, I found mine in the pick a part off a 70's ford truck.

[@ericthecarguy]

I ended up getting one from Modern Driveline. Thanks for the info though.

[@GearBoxVideo]

The T5 takes a standard 28 spline yoke. The TKO uses a 31 spline yoke. Although the C6 / Torqueflight 8 yoke will work, they are usually too long. The correct one is actually either the big block Ford or Mopar A833 31 Spline manual transmission yoke. It's all about the splines. Eric, thanks for the mention in your video!

[@ericthecarguy]

No problem Paul. Thanks for all your help with the T-5 and beyond. Your contributions have been invaluable.

[@Drtbiker88]

What clutch are you using if I may ask? I'm sorry if you had already mentioned it in the video

[@ericthecarguy]

Linked in the description.

[@worsttintentions]

How is the new tool box working out!? Is it making life much easier?

[@adv512]

with the purchase of the TKO trans and new block. do you feel youve wasted your time and money on the mustang? could always drop a small block back in the stang and just sell it

[@ericthecarguy]

I'm actually thinking of doing the Mustang as a 'budget build' when I'm done with the Fairmont.

[@aussiebloke609]

that's an awesome idea. The Fairmont shows how things go when you have a "healthy-ish" budget, so would be nice to see what can be achieved on a shoestring as well - that actually does what it says on the box. :-)

[@adv512]

well ill be sure to tune in cause thats what im doing to my 69 nova ss. no motor or trans cause my dad blew the engine with nitrous back in the day. i got a 5.7 vortec behind a 700r4 from a 93 van than im throwing in so it should be fun. might make a video of it

[@hotsuace24]

cutting a 3/8 fuel line hose and match the diameter of that aluminum intake would help protect it from scuffs and vibrations and act as a gromet. keep up with the videos.

[@patw52pb1]

1/8 or 5/32 vac hose slit longitudinally and secured with 3M 8001 is what we use to finish trim through holes.

[@hotsuace24]

patw52pb1 yeah even better. I said. fuel line off the bat cause I have so many lying around the shop.

[@patw52pb1]

Yes, I have done the same, but I now prefer the smaller diameter vac hose.

[@patw52pb1]

+Michael Dorado Professionally in the shop we now use a commercial product from Panduit that works great. It comes in either 5ft pieces or 100ft rolls, has an adhesive pre-applied, gets cut to length to fit the hole, slipped into place and heated with an electric heat gun that sets the adhesive and has a very professional finished look and performs great even through multiple pressure washer cleaning. www.panduit.com/en/products-and-services/products/wire-routing-protection-and-insulation/abrasion-protection/grommet-edging

[@ashadams3956]

damn, almost a million subscribers!!

[@aserta]

Not much longer. We're almost there. A few more shares on Reddit and sites and 1 mill is in the bag. :)