Рет қаралды 461
Originally recorded March 16, 2021.
READ DESCRIPTION FOR ADDITIONAL INFO:
This video shows how to install a toilet tank replacement kit. If your toilet is leaky, not flushing properly, or it's running all the time, chances are you may need a new rebuild kit, which they sell at many hardware & plumbing stores now. It's an all-in-one kit by Fluidmaster that replaces the fill valve, flush valve, flush handle and tank mounting hardware.
On mine, the old flush valve flapper was actually slightly too small for the valve opening, so sometimes it didn't seal completely, and water would slowly start to seep out of the tank, causing the fill valve to cycle on and off and on and off.
I initially thought a new flapper was all it needed, until I played around a little bit with the fill valve, and it started squealing loudly after it shut off from filling. It stopped doing it when I shut the water supply valve on the floor, so that probably means there was a pinhole in the fill valve allowing pressurized water to slowly flow through. So I just decided to get a new all-in-one kit and be done with it. Works great now.
The day after I uploaded this video, I went back in and adjusted the toilet's water usage to what I wanted it to be. I figured out that the roller clamp on the fill hose going to the overflow pipe, acts as a restrictor, or a valve, if you will, and you push the clamp wheel down, and roll it to the specified number markings on the clamp. It goes all the way from "0" to "8", and the higher the number, the more water that will enter the bowl from the overflow pipe. If you need to adjust it, simply pour about a gallon of water into the toilet bowl, and then let it sit for a moment until the water level is subsided. Then take a dry-erase marker and draw a line at where the water level is in the bowl (or if you have an already formed water line in the bowl, you can use that). Adjust the roller clamp as needed; if the bowl reaches it's water line and the toilet still continues to fill for more than about 10 seconds, you might need to decrease the number setting on the roller clamp by one notch until you get it where you want it, and vice versa.
The instructions that come with the kit also state that the fill valve can be adjusted by twisting the valve on a threaded post up or down for more or less water usage. It recommends to set the top of the valve cap to sit about 3 inches above the top of the overflow pipe. I adjusted mine to about that, and it sits just below flush with the top of the tank, which is perfect. When you adjust your fill valve height, also keep in mind of where the tank's final water level is in relation to the mounting hole for the flush handle--at least an inch of distance between the water level and the hole is acceptable. You can of course refer to the instructions in the kit for what you need to do to adjust everything in the final stages.
Hope this was helpful to you!