DIY Anti-lock Braking System

Ever wondered how an anti-lock braking system really works? Whilst building one for my bike, I realised ABS is quite complex!
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[@TomBom292]

My ABS is called "the brakes aren't strong enough to lock up" and it's never given me a problem

[@fromhell1]

u cannot slow enough then? sorry for my english btw.

[@dieselphiend]

Mine is simply called "couch", and/or "couch-lock".

[@antan2329]

Mine is that i dont have any brakes

[@blank8969]

i'm kinda surprised how effective this system is, never given me a problem either.

[@Metehan-Sakarya]

I understand you very well 😔😔. Let's hug

[@stefanamg63]

This is just fantastic. This video had me thinking about all sorts of things including why the ABS judders your wheels in an emergency braking situation.

[@martindinner3621]

The juddering is mainly noticible in older systems that could only cycle between full clamp and full release. Repeat this nearly 100 times per second and you induce some fun vibrations.

[@tristunalekzander5608]

I thought this was going to be a video of you 3D printing your own bike out of ABS

[@325bpm6]

ikr, he should have what a wasted opportunity

[@JoyplanesRC1]

Love this kind of experiments, it takes a lot of time though, but research is worth it.

[@alexcarrera102]

Joyplanes RC ya ves

[@zokieboi]

That's one of the videos that made me retrofit an ABS on my bike (which never had it as an option from factory). Oh and later upgraded it into a traction control system with 4 different modes. And it works like charm - saved my ass a couple of times. Thanks for an inspiration!

[@Biffo1262]

Long before ABS, as a professional emergency services driver (fire) we were taught cadence braking; essentially manually operated ABS. I used that when driving my own car pre-abs and do the same with the front brake on both motorcycle and bicycle. It is an acquired skill but still very effective. It works best on hydraulic cycle brakes but I have also found that the front disc is so easily contaminated with road muck that it effectively turns itself into ABS by alternately slipping and locking but it is very noisy! I used to clean my front disc and pads very regularly but found it locked up on gravel far too easily so I left it alone. It works!!!! It's noisy but very effective (self) cadence braking. No need for expensive ABS as long as you can stand the noise plus the noise itself turns you into a very careful breaker; effectively a verbal cadence braking warning. It works for me and has done for many years. I'm 71 years of age and still riding 100+ miles per week safely. 😀

[@MrFatjonable]

I was waiting for a proper comparison of break time/distance with and without the "ABS" !

[@Redbikemaster]

The purpose of abs is more to maintain control. It actually can result in slightly longer braking distances in order to maintain control.

[@mannyr9225]

@@Redbikemaster I'm sure it also helps to maintain static friction rather than the much smaller dynamic friction.

[@joshuahuang07]

it probably wasn't much better because he had to put a longer lever which gave more torque but less speed so the time it took for the brakes to disengage/engage was longer.

[@GraveUypo]

@@mannyr9225 it probably doesn't, seeing it's a binary on/off system with no fine adjustment.

[@sh4dy832]

To make that comparison, you'd have to savely come to standstill with a locked frontwheel (as this is the one he implemented it at and also the one you definitely don't want to have locked up). Which shows pretty well, as it's already been said: The purpose is not a shorter braking time, but maintaining control. And with a faster actuator, that would work decently here.

[@System32F]

I ride a lot in places were you would be prone to brake locking but the more experienced you are the better and the good thing about bikes is you feel what the bike is doing knowing how much brake to apply your fingers will do a much better job at it really, it comes natural to me you can hear it and feel it starting to lock up in a car or motorbike yeah its needed you don't feel the things as good in them since there heavier and more sturdy

[@MePeterNicholls]

So now I want to see a hub motor on each wheel, traction control and abs ;)

[@haythamfpv]

try using a gearbox and a brushless or brushed motor, with some math you'll find that you don't need a very powerful motor so you won't need to spend too much if you calculate right the gear reductions. you can cut the cogs with the cnc cheers!

[@christopherfoley4071]

You're working on a lot of projects related to control theory. Have you considered using a hybrid model predictive controller? You can make a non-linear problem piecewise linear and solve the solution space offline. The end result is a lookup table for appropriate linear feedback at a given point in time. Doing the explicit calculation offline should allow you to reduce computation onboard as long as the state space is relative small. That way you can run predictive control algorithms on your cost efficient compute.

[@bibasik7]

My bike has rim brakes, and it stops instantly if I squeeze the brakes all the way, at any speed. So, in that case, this system would prevent unintentional front flips.

[@TechnologistAtWork]

If you brake the back wheel you shouldn't flip.

[@21Trainman]

Themazeful If you only use the rear brake, you can’t stop nearly as quickly. As an experienced cyclist, I’d say I can stop at probably 1/3 to 1/4 the distance when using the front brake vs. the rear.

[@TechnologistAtWork]

@@21Trainman slow down a little maybe?

[@kauvik_]

Gabriel Penner either way you should be using a mixture or the front and rear brakes for maximum braking power. You probably know, but around 80%rear and 20%front braking

[@TechnologistAtWork]

@@kauvik_ it keeps the bike from tipping over when barking is distributed instead of putting on the load on one point.

[@brandonastley1100]

Abs system is mainly used to ensure effective braking, the idea being you want maximum braking effect which would be applying then brake until it skids and then slightly releases it to get the braking to work effectively (wheel not skidding) so you wouldn’t want the brake to fully release you would want to modulate the braking pressure (what cyclist do as the tyre starts to lose grip)

[@Florious420]

Like in the old cars you had to "pump" the brakes, you had to feel it more or less

[@joey_f4ke238]

And here i am never having used the front brakes on my bike, i always used the back ones, no problem with braking and turning at the same time plus nice bike drifting action

[@humtydumty7203]

Cheap abs "using oil on braking part " *extremely dangerous * *may be fatal*

[@Runedragonx]

Can't live life properly without a little risk now can you lol

[@humtydumty7203]

@@Runedragonx 😁😁

[@Acecool]

Cars have multiple points of input that you don't consider. If the brake is pressed, lights turn on. This switch can also monitored in a controlled toggle for ABS. For a bike, it makes sense to measure how much the brakes are applied. The accelerometer will measure less change in speed, if you are sliding, than when you are braking. So if you notice deceleration dropping ( when it should be constant ) when braking is constant, you are sliding. So you can start activating right as the reduction in -▲V starts moving in the opposite direction, if the brakes having been released. You can measure the amount of break-lever input using a simple potentiometer. The accelerometer is good too. Measuring the wheels is excellent, but you should measure all of them that you have available to you for more refined results. ie: brake lever pressed, lights come on = ABS is active Within these confines, if you are tracking wheel speeds and one wheel is decelerating quicker than the other, and the rate of deceleration starts approaching 0, the wheel starts sliding at some value above 0. However, if you are tracking the rate of brake lever applied, then the rate of deceleration should be constant. If it starts approaching 0, the wheel is starting to lose grip. If this can be confirmed with the other wheel - trigger ABS. This means the system is triggered right as the wheel slips. To further reduce it so it doesn't get to the point of slipping, track the rate of deceleration and the other wheel. Since you are braking, we can ignore if you're doing burn-outs, etc... the wheels should both be constant with one another. If one leaves the ground, then if you trigger ABS that allows the back end back to the ground... brake lever released and abs turns off. So if you process what should happen, logically, and how to track what should happen - it isn't difficult to create. It isn't the easiest system, and it isn't bad to allow the wheel to get to the point of almost slipping, but a lot of systems do what yours does... lock the wheel up, release the brakes, and do a sort of pumping action. But, if done properly, the maximum braking can always exist, for the conditions you're in.

[@claxtoncurtis811]

Cool project for commuting snow and ice.(fun of sliding wears off after a while) though it should have a fun mode (abs off)

[@deusexaethera]

Car ABS systems don't detect wheel lockup. They detect the wheel _decelerating_ at a faster rate than would be physically possible if the tire still had traction. From this, the ABS system infers that the brake is _starting_ to lock-up, even if it hasn't fully locked-up _yet,_ and it disengages the brake on the affected wheel. You can reduce response time significantly if you try to detect an abnormally high rate-of-deceleration rather than absolute wheel speed.

[@cebubikebootcamp]

I know how to properly brake, I also know how many clicks upon entering a turn, this should not impress me as a rider.... but I'm half rider and half geek! This really shocks me, how did you even come up with this idea. I'm gonna share this on my FB Page :)

[@KingBlueSlimss]

cool concept but my fingers are the best way of stopping my brakes from locking up on my MTB.

[@RayHenry100]

Great job!! Thanks you for doing the work most of us just dream about doing!!

[@Cynyr]

can't wait for the hydrolic version of this where there are basically two brake levels that work opposite of each other. Ideally one isn't a lever at all and doesn't need a servo, or maybe just a cam on one.

[@andresgalletti1986]

>"DIY" >*uses cnc and 3d printer before the first 2 minutes*

[@cooperised]

3d printers are definitely common DIY tools these days. CNC routers slightly less so but still not rare, or particularly expensive.

[@brane1872]

Where in diy does it say cheap?

[@_ulick]

He's still making it himself

[@BronzeLincolns81]

"Don't ride in the snow" is the only ABS system I can afford. this is cool though.

[@vasipro]

This deserve 30 million views.

[@mrbane2000]

My bike could do ABS, with my rear wheel jumping up and down

[@Redbikemaster]

My semi truck does that with its trailer when empty.

[@no-trick-pony]

I think a better way of finding the point of brake engagement is to use brake lever switches. It should eliminate all false positive and false negative cases. With your system it might detect a brake when you hit a steep hill or, even worse, no braking when you brake in ice and there is virtually no decrease in speed.

[@johnnythreshold]

this is very similar how a compressor/gate works in audio and that's pretty great!

[@Omlet221]

So improve the mechanical response time you could have the servo preload some of the string when you are going high speed so that it’s more ready for when you start to decelerate

[@steveflatman]

The biggest issue with response time was the mechanics, which wouldn't be solved by more money, but a more direct approach. Inserting a tee into the brake line with a solenoid activated piston would give a far faster response. As soon as the system is activated the solenoid would be energised, drawing the piston out, depressurising the brake caliper, releasing the wheel. Once the wheel is registered as turning the solenoid can be released compressing the piston, re-pressurising the piston and re-engaging the brake. The total response time of such a system could be as little as 100ths of a second, making the whole system significantly more dynamic, cheaper and more compact.

[@OskarAnalog]

You could encrease air volume (syringe with servo maybe) in a hydraulic system to dampen the braking consistently .. :)

[@satibel]

I suggest switching that to rear wheel anti slip by lowering the power to the motor by a ratio of the speed between the front and back wheel, as braking the rear wheel doesn't make the front lift up. You could also setup basically a big optical mouse with open cv by adding a camera or 2 pointing down.

[@cyclefixlondon]

good effort, looks like it works like my motorbike

[@gadgetdeez7069]

one way you could have RAPIDLY increased the response, is to trigger a timer to log servo position vs lockup or 0kph. set a temporary home position that you'd have to dial in with trial/error. this timer should only exist for the current antilock situation and reset after not triggering a lockup within x seconds. this will give you a set point for the coefficient of friction that the road surface is. The coefficient itself isn't important, but ideally, when the brake locks up vs when the brake can no longer stop the wheel is a relatively fixed pressure ratio that will slide up/down the pressure scale according to coefficient of friction that is available to the front tire. With this info, you can compensate for "slop" in the mechanics and quickly hone in on the grey area between locked up and spinning. You'd probably get a 200-300% increase in performance if you were to apply these mods even with a slow stepper setup like you have. to speed things up a bit more, add a collar to the stepper shaft to increase it's diameter a little and turn micro stepping off. full steps only. :)

[@seavee2000]

Clear,concise,intelligent and innovative. And more than 900 "dislikes". So many dolts out there.....most of whom consider clicking a mouse button "work".

[@chicohaze787]

Sir Tom you have great ideas the wheelie now the abs you should patent these products and sell them

[@MrSaid197]

If you learned to drive it, you probably got the feel of acceleration, you won’t ever get on back by pedalling or make a burnout, so you just reverse that in your head and you apply the break to match that feel and viola, you learned to brake being your own ABS

[@ALIOCAL70]

I think, may be change your design. You can apply the step motor center of the bike and ( like a rc plane ) cabled each wheel. And also grow your friction power.

[@jozzerful2]

At 15.12 in the video that was impressive I have to say I just heard you mention about snow before I made this comment should be interesting I am making comments as I see the video

[@deltacx1059]

11:44 could use a small wheel mounted on a spring just under the crank to measure the speed or use a gps.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

8:20 the actuator rotates around then handle bar which obviously prevents the system working as designed.

[@CycleCalm]

Bosch actually makes ABS for e-bikes, mainly intended for S-Pedelecs.

[@saderuscz]

what about use second brake caliper in series, with screw, spring and stepper. When you need release pressure, stepper just unscrew pressure on the caliper. Or use of "rear brake limiter" from car, similar construction. Anyway great videos. THx

[@Psyopcyclops]

This is quite an old video, and Bosch actually makes an ABS system for bikes. You should pick one up and compare them!

[@jbirdmax]

Just discovered your channel and I have to say: love your content! Keep up your amazing work. I am very much looking forward to seeing your next show. 🤔clicks subscribe & 🔔

[@dylanbutler4449]

Great video. Just an idea, use something other than a stepper motor since it’s speed is probably the slowest of any motor type

[@Genesis63N]

We need an inline hydraulic version of this, mountain biking would become easier than ever.

[@GraveUypo]

how about you measure the g-force in until the first lock, get a deceleration value to get as a threshold for the brake to apply just enough force so it never skids again until a full stop? for example: you tug on the brakes, the wheel locks. a sensor detects a peak deceleration of 0.8G. the ABS module then releases the brake and pulls it again to a position where the bike decelerates at a constant 0.65G . that way you still brake reasonably well without constantly going over the threshold. and if you do, just adjust that value by weighting it against the former values and do it again.

[@spartan5280]

You shold have just put a sensor on the back tire. That is how motorcycles and also that e-bike do it. Plus the code wold have been simpler since you could have used the slip ratio and then an If statement with a range. That way you wold have both an abs and anti over handlebars system in one.

[@RenzoKarol]

Look it up, Magura has this option for ebikes ( little better ). Only for bikes with a Bosch system.

[@Excludos]

This is an old video, I know. But I wanted to add that this ABS system on a bike, due to its slowness, will likely be more of a detriment than helpful. If you had done a control test where you just locked your brakes, you'd have noticed that you'd stop a lot sooner. This is also true for cars btw (Tho the incredibly low response time and fine tuning of modern vehicles makes that difference very low), but the ability to be in control of your vehicle as you stop is deemed more important than outright distance. You're better off if you can avoid the accident entirely. For your bike, as you pointed out in the video, this is less likely to be an issue due to the much lower speeds you're going. ABS brakes have historically also been completely useless on certain surfaces like solid ice, where the only way to brake at all is to lock the wheels (I'm not sure how well newer cars handles this). And as you've mentioned, the ABS will do nothing for the most likely scenario of falling off your bike due to slippery surface. Have to say tho, really cool project. I'd put it on my bike simply for the cool factor alone :D

[@SnowingNapalm]

Lol pressure sensitivity is the grip or slip control much faster in your brain than with ecu also g sensor and terrain mapping built in to your body so you can brake specifically for what type of obstacle faced with ...on the other hand i appreciate the data showing physics in motion etc

[@CraftedChannel]

Calculation should be based on the difference in speed of other wheel or based on exceeding a certain rate of change.

[@alexjasonchandler]

There is a company, Outbreaker, that makes bicycle and kits under $200 for hydraulic brake systems :-)

[@nathanschmitz148]

I feel like on a bike, you are the abs system, you can get pretty good at it once you learn your bike and can predict when your wheels will lock

[@squeak340]

Yes its a cool idea and nice to be able to work it out. But the normal thing to do is to not just grab a handful of the front brake like a nutter!

[@logitech4873]

Maybe try using an electric hub motor as the front "brake"? Electric scooters nowadays tend to have some sort of electronic ABS on the hub motors, I'm sure you could use that somehow. It's surprisingly effective on my Xiaomi M365.

[@frizzby-x]

I think adding an electronically controlled bypass valve to the hydraulic brake line wouldn't be more difficult to implement and give much shorter response time. But I have zero knowledge and practice with this stuff.

[@xdimplendidx]

Amazing works

[@Atlas_FPV]

Would fitting a larger cam on the motor increase the response time? The rope would have a larger distance to travel per rotation of the motor, so the motor turns less to get the same brake pressure applied.

[@glenben92]

Fair play for continuing despite not having access to a sufficiently torquey motor but I think if you'd mounted the servo arm at the disc instead of on the bars, you could have achieved faster actuation with the motor you had, which was the main issue. Nicely mitigated with software but it was still far too slow to be much use. Enjoyed the video though, sub from me!

[@ogeloco]

You could've used a hall sensor for the rpm measuring

[@ibrahimpatwa3318]

I usally just pump the brakes and it works pretty good

[@uwu_demon5494]

My ABS is learning the modulation of my brakes

[@k34561]

Use a down pointing video camera to estimate speed like a mouse. Maybe mouse hardware.

[@Manigo1743]

When that sensor disc gets filled with mud, does that mean that you effectively have no brakes?

[@Victor-my1hi]

What u need is hydraulic breaks with valves, not mechanic breaks with stepper motors

[@robertdooley8272]

I love sliding the rear tire ngl. Makes cars behind me slow down😅

[@squarebodycasewademckenney6190]

Me being a car guy knows how ABS works.... and always thought it should be on a bikes rear tire, and on ATVs many times while riding my "wheeler" I've had to hit the brakes and they lock up and I just slide some abs would be nice

[@uuuummm9]

I guess it would be much easier to debug this stuff on the rear wheel.

[@enderlord5412]

Just run another hydraulic line from the brake calibers to a solenoid, that'll take care of all the mechanical motion and can be controlled by the computer

[@kovbohdan]

big servo with metal gear and a few lewers will be much faster then stepper motor

[@TaimoorInam]

What if your hard code the value like brake for 0.5 sec and release for 0.5 sec whenever the brake is pressed and motor keep doing that until bike stops?? Value for release and hold can be fine tuned further...

[@MrCringedragon]

bro this is so cool

[@ChrisD_GTR]

OY MATE! YOU GOT A BOIKE LOICENSE?

[@robertlunsford1350]

Cannondale made an antilock brake back in 2001, I mean it wasn't supposed to be but it was.

[@samiurrahmanshah1981]

Automotive ABS systems actually use accelerometers and timers to estimate vehicle body speed.

[@centroquiropracticocarsten5955]

you should upgrade that with an acceleration sensor to get autobrakes like comercial airplane ✈️

[@loganstein816]

What if you increased the diameter of the shaft that the rope spins around to make it so the motor doesn't have to spin as much and can have faster responses

[@melwalshmtb9121]

All in all, man's smart

[@Jrod_FPV]

cost/ value aside, i agree nobody is going to pay for abs on a bicycle when it takes about the same level of skill to keep the front wheel from locking as it does to ride a bike in the first place. But for fun experimental sake.... could you improve the system by monitoring rear wheel speed in addition to front wheel speed? Then you can trigger abs more confidently knowing you can release or re apply brakes i'm really surprised the stepper response time is so slow... i would think you could get 1 or 2 full rotations in 0.0X sec, not the 0.2 sec you mention.

[@Cyores]

It would have been interesting to compare these results with and make a graph your your own human reaction times as to how quickly you can lock and release the front wheel.

[@smeggyhead1]

I think you should have limited how far the servo rotated, to just enough to undo the lock. Doing so would have made it release much faster.

[@informediatech-bruno5766]

USE AN RASPBERY TO COMPARE ROTATION FROM BACK WHEEL TO THE FRONT WHEEL

[@PopaAlexandru.]

Grobiene intervals and beginners still do not get rid of messed . In order to avoid obstacles, is not the better elastic front fork?

[@Anthony-vm1jc]

Who needs this how often do you activate your abs on your car

[@nicolas357]

NICE VIDEO!

[@redcrafterlppa303]

Why would you use the front brake anyway the rear brake prevents falling over and with a locked up rear wheel you can still control it

[@aventador19]

In my opinion better to push back and front brakes

[@hasanbasricokguler]

I think you should use bigger motor axis or maybe a gear. Therefore this system action time better. I hope you answer me... Thanks;)

[@q.e.d.9112]

Seems to me that an electromagnetic by-pass valve, with a return to the hydraulic reservoir would provide low milliseconds response time.

[@martins.7021]

great job Tom, I am curious if you could make also ESP :)

[@EngineerCatPyro]

Adjust the standard break pads not to lock up the tire. Anti lock breaking 100% free.

[@Francois_Dupont]

ive experienced ABS activating on a motorcycle. it add about 30% of the braking distance on wet asphalt. it also pulse the front wheel like you had a loose caliper or axel. its about 1000$ on the MRP too. way too much on a 8000$ bike.

[@Thebirdemoji]

What of you have the cable of the break connect to a system that pulls it instead of a rotation so it's more faster and effective.

[@arnabmaiti4839]

I broke my arm due to lack of this

[@bishrbourghli5081]

could you not partially break with the motor rather than having the breaks all the way on or all the way off?

[@johnny-by7eu]

What if the lever (wasn't activating the brakes itself but it was giving signal to the stepper motor (or controller) and the motor would control the braking

[@arkanglegeibriel]

Can the force applied in such an abrupt fashion(such as the action I see with a valve) be mitigated instead with applying the force through a valvular conduit? This sort of force allows easy force one direction with instead of an ABRUPT force applied oppositely a more... gradual force applied to slow it down?

[@sachinminz90]

Is this the reason some vehicles can't be stopped on an incline by just using brakes? like for some reason their ABS response time plus other things(faulty) included doesn't lock up the wheels and when the wheels are locked it releases them again and after regaining some speed it reapplies brakes.