Too Many Watts? Is That Even Possible?

[@glenlapwing8468]

I’m not happy until all the lights in my neighborhood go dim when I turn my stereo on

[@dennispope1323]

😂

[@dennispope1323]

@@glenlapwing8468 Although there are some who think that I personally caused the 1977 NY City blackout as I edited a tape on my Crown reel-to-reel tape deck in my Brooklyn apartment. 🤔

[@sojourner57]

I’m 67. I lived the stereo wars in college in the 70’s, with wonderful stereo stores on Roosevelt Avenue in Seattle’s U-District, like SpeakerLab and Magnolia Hi-Fi. All of us read Stereo Review and High Fidelity mags religiously, looking for the best specs. Two comments: 1. I know from experience that 1 watt continuous (according to my receiver’s meter) is VERY loud. That said, the meter doesn’t capture transient spikes, which is why SOME wattage headroom is needed. 2. I once (in 1977) heard a a tiny, white Advent radio playing through a Klipsch Horn. It was AMAZING what a super efficient speaker could do with low watts. My college receiver was a Pioneer SX680. I now have a Pioneer SX950. Both have more than adequate power for Bach or Boston…

[@TE5LA-GAMING]

I think a lot of people believe that a 100-watt amp is putting out 100 watts as soon as it is turned on. It is more difficult to damage speakers by over-powering than by under-powering. At normal levels, you are using maybe 20 watts, depending on speaker sensitivity. The excess is for reproducing peaks to avoid clipping the note. A 20 watts nominal, a music peak may require 10 times this to not clip, so you would want 200 watts. It's similar to cars. A 400 hp car and a 100 hp car can both easily maintain 60 mph, but when you need to pass cars, the 400 hp will do it with much less stress than the weaker engine. For the same reason you don't drive with the accelerator on the floor, you shouldn't have your stereo volume all the way up.

[@vanderpoolfarmsl.l.c.9983]

GREAT point. Clipping was totally left out of the video.

[@richardclay]

Having been an audio technician for more than 50 years, I've found that explaining that doubling amplifier power only gives one a 3db increase in SPL. Large amps on efficient speakers have the feature of providing more headroom for loud passages, ensuring fewer square waves are delivered to the speakers, can be helpful.

[@adventurer3645]

Large amps? It’s not a refrigerator. Higher power amps makes more sense.

[@CraigHollabaugh]

"Make the coffin bigger", classic. Good master class on power matching. The entire linear/log/attention discussion very informative. Thanks Skylabs!

[@skylabsaudio]

Thanks, Craig!

[@williamcampbell3868]

Hey Brother! This is from the 64 year old Black man O.G and music loving audiophile( my full title🤣). Just a comment or two. It's easy to understand. The more efficient the speakers the less watts you need. The reverse is true if you have something like Maggies, then you will need all the watts you can get!! I think also speakers with a big sound stage can seem louder than those that project smaller. Amplifier headroom plays a big part too. One of the amplifiers I have, a classic Hafler 120a is 60 watts, but has a dynamic output in excess of 110 watts. Let's not forget preamplifier output sensitivity!

[@Peter-976]

Great learning video!. My biggest thing with audio has always been the THD being the lowest possible number. Now I have much more to consider, thanks!

[@rajoconnor]

100% Accurate! I’ve been restoring advising people regarding audio for years. They never quite understand the logarithmic taper. Matching the speakers and amplifier is very important.

[@skylabsaudio]

It's a thing!

[@ronaldfriedline9297]

First-time I've heard of it. All the info I've been studying for last 3 yrs, never came up. Explains why a lower powered amp seems louder than some of the higher end units. My sx 750 seems to be more linear and it's a mid grade reciever, but man my sx 737 gets loud very quickly. Between 9 and 10 o'clock.

[@williamkelley7654]

Nice explanation. While explaining this to my son I showed him just what 1WPC (as per my amps meter) really sounds like. A lot louder than he expected.

[@skylabsaudio]

Pretty impressive what a few watts can do. Thanks

[@Gitarzan66]

I'm 58, 80's metalhead. Lifelong Pizza Hut driver lol. Musicain. I've had a lot of speakers over the years but I'm still looking for THE speakers. I've never had speakers that I just loved to death. I'm glad I found your channel. I'm watching a lot of videos and doing my homework. After I sell my house and get the hell out of Aurora Co. I'm going to put a vintage sterio together. We're looking for a house in Misoouri so we might even road trip up to your store.

[@danstein2467]

I’ve been playing with stereo gear for a long time and this is the best explanation I’ve ever heard. Keep up the great work!

[@skylabsaudio]

Thank you so much, Dan. Really appreciate it!

[@acronus]

I was in the same boat for so long. More watts = More better. Then I bought a second hand NAD 7020e receiver, rated at a whopping 20w/ch, and was blown away at how it would punch way above its weight class. It really made me rethink what I thought I knew about power ratings.

[@Douglas_Blake_579]

A couple of basic guidelines .... The minimum obvious change in volume most people can hear is 3db ... but increasing levels by 3db requires twice as much power. The "twice as loud" point most people talk about is actually +10db ... which requires 10 times the power. Average living room levels are about 70dba ... which most often requires only 2 or 3 watts of average power. With 10db of peak headroom that 70dba can easily be accomodated by a 20 watt/ch amplifier.

[@georgechronis3169]

Volume taper is something that most do not comprehend. I have a Pass Labs XP 32 and it has a very very long taper which is extremely useful for different types of speakers. Excellent explanation of watts vs volume control and actual output levels. Very very educational.

[@dank1292]

Watts/DB's and speaker efficiency simply put and completely explained. Thank you. I have owned many stereos since the mid-70s and didn't realize the ramp-up scenarios with the volume pots but have actually experienced it. While watching this video I had the aha, lightbulb moment. Phew, not crazy after all!! I had a Sansui AU..... amp that needed repair I couldn't afford so I traded it for a working vintage Onkyo TX-1500 MK II receiver and loved it for many years, I ran it with some "modern" Klipsch floorstanders and it sang!! He got a deal but I too was very happy.

[@kraig7777]

Another reason I love the variable loudness knob on my Yamaha receivers. Between the volume knob and the loudness knob you can always find the perfect sound level.

[@skylabsaudio]

100%

[@BootJamesOut]

Hello folks. It's takes a little more playing around with to have both set for tone and volume to have the DB output level from speakers. Next if I have to turn it up or down I have to tweak a bit, for the love of music. Ride Easy

[@grantwilson9161]

I continue to learn from pretty much every one of your videos. You just saved me a receiver service as, after watching this, I just swapped out my speakers & surprise... volume control exactly where I wanted it! Thank you... from Canada

[@skylabsaudio]

Glad to help

[@scofab]

Right on... I built a small (2+2W) Elekit tube amp with my son many years ago for his birthday. That thing can easily drive a pair of Focal/Chorus 706 to very listenable levels in a decent sized room. And it sounds quite nice too... people are too eager to put quantity above quality, especially these days it seems. Thanks again and regards, and best wishes for Dad.

[@hwycat1]

That was a great video, I didn’t realize about the volume sweep really good info. You opened up my eyes as well as my ears after 40 years of collecting vintage audio thanks man.

[@skylabsaudio]

Glad you enjoyed!

[@frh-freerangehuman]

New subscriber. This video explains the exact confusion I had over my 1978 15 watt Kenwood and 1980 50 watt Sony receivers. Never knew that about the volume knobs but makes perfect sense. Great channel

[@ricknelsonm]

It's a real pleasure to listen and watch your video's thank you,

[@skylabsaudio]

Thank you

[@ripjones5294]

Thoroughly enjoyed this weekly installment. I think years ago, when I was working at Franklin Music, the manufacturers had their "Tim the Tool Man" moment, long before television show -- MORE POWER !!! Speaker manufacturers were trying to keep up with the "Watts Guys". They were having to build stuff that could actually handle the current. I am in complete agreement that I think right now, fifty watts IS probably a really good sweet spot. All of the vintage stuff that I have been picking up, hits right around that sweet spot. Enjoyed this. Thanks ! Rip

[@skylabsaudio]

Thank you, Rip

[@acrossthedial]

Great video! It's not always easy to come up with new topics but you have the knack for it!

[@skylabsaudio]

thanks :)

[@adamarendt5519]

Automotive industry calls it “tip in”. It’s how fast the car reacts when accelerator is pushed. Some sensitive, some not. You really feel it when driving something the first time. Could be a good reference for explaining to customers.

[@kevinyoungM14EBR]

I have a sensitive accelerator on my short wheelbase 2007 Tundra, I purposely set the truck up to drive as street sport truck so it suits me but others with the same accelerator complain about it.

[@skylabsaudio]

Good call

[@curtchase3730]

@@kevinyoungM14EBR Our old Cadillac from the early 70's had a quadrajet carb. Car seemed weak and sluggish even when gas was pressed well over 1/2 way, BUT the last 1/3rd? Yep, it poured on the coal! Move to a large 2bbl now. We had a 1967 Impala w/a 289. Just tap the gas and it would almost jump, but, get it up to highway speed and start pressing it down to the floor, not a whole lot of anything. Kinda like some volume controls. Wimpy big box receivers had a touchy pot, huge change of volume till 1/2 way (12 O'Clock), after that, little change.

[@josephlalock8378]

@@curtchase3730 283

[@GregoryGlessnerViolin]

​@@kevinyoungM14EBR I'm bummed Toyota didn't keep making the shorty Tundras. Those things were fast and could haul and tow like crazy.

[@gaineyjohnson6628]

Love the enthusiasm for the pieces you have collected. Best part of all of this is the joy of finding the perfect component to listen to the music. Ty for sharing.

[@skylabsaudio]

Thanks!

[@OldGuyHifi]

I don't think my light bulb is working any more! Great video my friend.

[@skylabsaudio]

Try an LED, they last longer :) Thanks Ed!

[@jukingeo]

Yes, this was a fun one, and a lot of info here. The first thing is efficiency. Prior to getting into commercial audio, I had pretty much ignored this figure. But, when I started to service and sell commercial equipment, this drastically changed. I had met a fellow that told me that his home system was also his DJ system and I was shocked when he told me that the speakers were a pair of Klipsch Forte II's. Now, I already knew Klipsch was a great speaker, but not for DJ duty. "You are going to blow them," where my words to him. He shook his head and said, "No. Why don't you come to a party with me and I will show you," was his answer. So I complied. I went with him and noted that the speakers were rated for 100watts and he was using a power amp that was about the same power. It might have been a Yamaha or Onkyo, but it certainly wasn't a commercial amp. I had shook my head when I saw the size of the room and that he was playing for 200 people and still, I worried he wasn't going to have enough power. After he turned the system on, I was shocked at the volume level. It was nice and clean and he had power to spare through the night. He didn't damage anything either. So I told him, you seem to know something I don't. He nodded and said, "The key is the efficiency." So when we were back at his place, he took out the specs for the speaker and pointed to the 1w/1m SPL figure. He said, "You want to get this number as high as possible. For every 3db higher it is, you need half the power to get to the same volume level." This was eye opening advice and up until that point, I mostly wrote off the figure as something esoteric and high end, but it actually applied to the field I was in. His Forte speakers were rated at 99db efficient 1w/1m. My own COMMERCIAL DJ speakers were 93 db efficent. So doing the math, what my friend did with 100 watts, I would need 400 to do the same. Now, THAT was a lesson learned! Over time though, I had put the efficiency rating right up there with power handling, and this carried over, even when I wasn't a DJ anymore. I always figured more SPL, the less power you need. Something that would come into play with tube amps later on. However, when it comes to home stereos, power and efficiency isn't everything and generally, more efficient speakers tend to have a rougher response curve. Something not good for imaging and soundstage. In fact it seems that dialing back on the efficiency for a smoother frequency response is more desireable, but it is at the expense of power. Also, in my later years, I had discovered that the pursuit for more and more power is unwarranted on a home level. I had this huge Onkyo M-504 power amplifier, rated at 160wpc (8ohms), and it was in a bedroom. I had noticed where the meters would "hop", and they would rarely get above 10 watts. So with that amp, I realized that I was grossly overpowered and really didn't need anything over 100watts. Later, like now, I realize that 40 to 80 watts is more than enough. @Kevin, it is funny that you have come upon the figure of about 50wpc and it turns out that is where many of my amplifiers power is at. Despite having speakers of various different efficiencies, it seems like those 50wpc amps are more than enough. Granted if you have a party in a big room with small speakers, then you might need around 100 watts or so. But, you don't need more than that...unless you really want nightclub sound levels...in a house. Then you should use a commercial system. Now, the volume control taper. I had run into this issue often and many think that if you start off with all the volume in the first 1/3rd turn, that going the rest of the way up would give an idea of how loud the amp can really go. So, if you have an audio taper and are almost up half way and compare it to a receiver that plays at the same volume with the control at the 9 o'clock position, many would pick that one. However, what most people fail to realize is that you WILL reach the amplifier's clipping point WAY earlier than the #10 position on the control. In fact, for the amp with the volume at 9 o'clock, you probably will hit clipping before you reach #5 on the volume control. You might get to 6 or 7 with the audio taper control, but still, there is no way that you would have clean power all the way up. Especially if you start to use boosted bass. I think a reason why the tapers vary so much is that on earlier amplifiers, they had the loudness compensation, and this required another tap on the volume control. Usually, most designers wanted the tap slightly before the halfway point on the volume control, so the effects of the loudness compensation automatically reduce when the volume is increased. So this will naturally affect the taper for the whole control. Many "audiophile" amps or preamps, do not have a loudness button or tap on the volume control and thus, they have more freedom to select what taper the volume control has. Great post! Definitely lots of information here. Even though I knew some of it already when it came to speaker efficiency. The bit about the volume control taper is something that isn't so obvious.

[@skylabsaudio]

I appreciate it! More info in your comment than my whole video- good stuff

[@ronaldfriedline9297]

That might explain why it thins out at higher volumes. I thought something was wrong with it

[@jukingeo]

@@skylabsaudio Thank you. Yeah, it was a mouth full, but the only way to explain it properly.

[@jukingeo]

@@ronaldfriedline9297 No, it is a phenomenon based on human hearing and testing known as the Fletcher Munson curves. In a nutshell the curves illustrate how the human hearing is much more sensitive to midrange frequencies at lower volumes than higher volumes. So at low volumes, the average sound system would seem shy of lows and highs. The loudness control compensates for this. When you raise the volume, the contour flattens out. Of course the science isn't perfect on stereos and everyone's hearing is different. But if the frequencies didn't flatten out at higher volumes, the amplifier would most likely overload and go into clipping at higher volumes. So that is another reason it flattens out.

[@arnoldschloss9634]

Great perspective on wattage Kevin! On my Sansui 5050 (30 WPC) connected to my Klipsch Heresy III's (99db efficiency); once you turn the volume past the 9 o'clock position, you get into eardrum shattering volume levels!

[@skylabsaudio]

I believe it!

[@ginom407]

Great video! This information should be recommended viewing for anyone getting into our hobby. 👍👍👍

[@derrickhogue1868]

This is a good explanation video. Not to technical, but simply explained that you can see the logic of it. Where were you 30 years ago when I was caught up in the More Watts era thinking.

[@septembersurprise5178]

"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. - Albert Einstein

[@kaohsiung99]

Excellent video & explanation. I've always considered the Pioneer SX to be my favorite. But as I've gotten older, I really like being able to turn the volume (on other receivers) up to the half mark without feeling like I'm being 'blasted out' of the room. I never thought it could be put into words, but you did a great job of explaining this.

[@mikefrazier3826]

Great explanation/demonstration. Thanks

[@alanperry1846]

I find 60 watt and larger amps generally have more power reserve when hitting large bass notes and do not bog down like some of the lower wattage ones ,they may have better damping also.

[@jefffoster3557]

This is a key statement that should never be overlooked, especially if you are a fan of full spectrum. This is why huge transformers and caps matter. And I suspect this is really the diff Kevin was speaking of at the end but not stating it.

[@harlest71]

Thanks Kevin for another good informative video. My Living room system changes quite often and right now I'm enjoying using the preamp from my MA6100 to my Dynakit ST70 and man that is a awesome combo. I brought it up because the volume pot on the 6100 is a linear style pot ( i mean to say it doesn't jump quick) and I love it.

[@PSB-900]

Many years ago I ran my Yamaha CR-2020 (105 wpc) with a set of Magnepan MGII's. The Magnepan's are long gone but the Yamaha receiver has been rebuilt/recapped and is powering a very efficient pair of Vandersteen 1Ci+ speakers. I set the volume control to the 10 o'clock position and they are rocking! In addition I have my DBX 3BX Series II Dynamic Range Expander with Impact Restoration. Talk about a game changer! Great video Kevin!

[@genehammond7239]

Great lesson for the day !!! 👍👍👍

[@tomday7309]

Great video. My SX 424 at 13 watts has the same kind of volume ramp. It is just barely at 9 O'clock setting and it's loud enough without being obnoxious through 89db sensitivity speakers. I've had speakers over the years that needed an 11 o'clock volume setting to get the same perceived volume. Thanks, Kevin.

[@skylabsaudio]

That's it right there

[@robertupchurch8088]

Very good explanation. I have a 25 WPC receiver I bought in high school driving speakers everyone says have to have 100 WPC for, it sounds pretty good for where I have it set up. Your video explains why. Thanks

[@morrisonAV]

Very well explained and easy to understand for newbies.

[@rotaxtwin]

I remember a car throttle linkage that was intentionally designed to give you a very non-linear response. The cable-operated pulley on the throttle was oval shaped, the first inch of your foot on the pedal opened the throttle almost half way, then it opened much more slowly. Made the engine feel very responsive, when in face it was a throttle body injected pushrod 4 cylinder.

[@larryshuckjr7994]

Kevin. Keep up the great work that you are doing. You're videos are so informative. And all your freinds are chiming in on your 11 questions. That's way cool man.

[@skylabsaudio]

Will do!

[@phytoabraham5765]

WELL DONE K-MAN!!!! Now that’s the kind of content I’m talking about. Excellent bro, ty & plz keep it up. Oh, & congrats on your new printer too.

[@christianwilliamson9752]

Great video I just spent 500 on a vintage amp. Kenwood ka8004 from 73. My dad had it and it shaped me through eh 70s to the 80s. It's 55 wpc deciding on my cheap bottom.end klipsch that sound great or vintage kenwood 3 ways on the low end. The amp is loud for 55 watts dad ran realistic 15"mach ones with jbls as a second pair. Had a technics 1200 table. Everything sounded great and shook the house!

[@elfman121]

Excellent episode. Never thought about using the muting attenuator to stretch that volume range. Thanks!

[@roguesquatch1]

Me either.

[@skylabsaudio]

Such a great feature!

[@wedoshotz6645]

Good video & explanations. If you're going to drive some fairly efficient, 8 ohm speakers then your choices are many. But in the case of Maggies or ML's, for example, you'll be hard pressed to get them to sing with just a mid-range receiver. As far as vintage receivers go, the higher wattage ones also had better all around design for the RIAA, tuner, tone, & preamp sections...... you were getting a bit more than just extra wattage.

[@kevinyoungM14EBR]

Excellent video! I inherited my Marantz 2238B so I had to find the right bookshelf speakers to match the receiver and meet my needs. The 1st set were Klipsch RP-160M followed by a set of JBL 4311B, both sets were pretty efficient but their ported design created a booming effect in my dwelling. I shifted gears and tried a set of ADS L570/2s and then a set of ADS L780/2s, the ADS are not as efficient as my Klipsch and JBL but I am better able to dial them in and they don't create that booming effect. I had fun sampling the different speakers and hearing the difference first hand.

[@mikecampbell5856]

I always enjoy your videos, especially these common sense videos. I've never had more than 70 watts per channel. Right now my main system is being driven by a 20 WPC Marantz 2220b with some very efficient Klipsch tower speakers and I can shake the house down. I had never thought of volume tapers but it makes total sense. I had a hard time driving them with my Harman Kardon 70 WPC receiver because all of the volume came on so strong at the very beginning of the volume sweep just like you said.

[@wooddragon576]

That was great information. best explanation ive heard on this topic. Thank you

[@skylabsaudio]

Awesome, thank you!

[@AUTISTICLYCAN]

I just brought a pair of Danlavy SC IV speaker's. These speakers are huge at 6 feet tall and deep too. I have them connected to a Pioneer SX1280 and a Pioneer SX-1980. They sound wonderful to me. Have you ever heard Dunlavy Speakers. They are supposed to be studio monitor speakers. They sound a lot like your option 2 speakers but on a huge watt receiver they really shine. This speakers can handle anything from classical to head banging rock and roll. It all sounds good!

[@shac79]

Really like those technical videos. Contribute knowledge, explanations, and help to focus on what matters when buying and picking audio stuff. Keep'em going, please 😎

[@skylabsaudio]

Thanks!

[@WheresCraig]

Back around 1994 I had a 100 watt per channel Radio Shack receiver. My neighbor came over with his 50 watt per channel Onkyo and blew me away🙂. He had more bass and you could hear more tones in the music. Watts are watts and quality is quality!

[@rafacq]

I’m 71 and for the first time in my life I have more watts than I need! Driving a pair of Martin Logan Motion 60XTi with an EMOTIVA XPA-3 Gen 3. Love it. Great video. Thanks.

[@slyspy9819]

I'm going to pick up a pair of those speakers today. I have the 40s and I'm hoping these are better

[@rafacq]

@@slyspy9819let us know what do you think about the Martin Logan Motion 60XTi. They can be found at a nice discount, I am very pleased with them. If I had money to spare, I would love to try the new SVS Titan.

[@pradeepchandrika208]

Excellent demonstration and explanations. Thank you very much.

[@skylabsaudio]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@bornagainbornagain6697]

Love the vid, just bought my avatar Tshirt with the old Maxell dude and the hair blowing back with the volume, it was called crank it up! Thanks for the gear. I do have a couple of questions, on the SPL meter are you using C weight and slow response or WHAT setting?. And did you raise the tripod with the mike to tweeter level on both speakers for the measurement. The high frequencies beam so you should be fair to both speakers, like not one height. But my opinion is way more watts is always better for protection from clipping the amp. More power protects speakers from the dreaded clip of the amp and the high frequency burst that melts tweeter voice coils. Love your channel and how much for the Sansui Integrated? It looks seductive and I want one. Take care and stay healthy.

[@vxss346]

Well said. The volume contour variations are a real problem too as many people (and manufacturers) use it as a 'My amp is louder and better than yours' BS.

[@Hog-g2z]

Good morning 🌅, Great content, I have a very large pair of transmission line cabinet , with SEAS drivers in them, 150w at 8ohm , at the moment I only have a NAD 314 I have to turn the volume up, lack of power, but they sound amazing even with the volume down, especially when I was listening to what you were playing, Not sure whether this is true or not, but I was told that you should get an amplifier that is twice as powerful as your speakers can handle, I have been looking for a NAD, 375 Bee , what is your thoughts?, from France

[@danwheetman6914]

Great video. Thanks. I’m an old school Silver face ( sx 1250) but I love the look of your Sansui.

[@simonpetter5717]

That was so informative and makes sense when describe in a simple way, please dome more of the educational films

[@deputy3690]

Very informative video! Now I understand.

[@skylabsaudio]

Glad to hear it!

[@johnobrien5561]

Great video, I used to have a Technics SA 500 that would blow you away around 4. I now have a Marantz 2270 and I have to get up around 6 to 7 for that volume. Case in point of what you’re saying!

[@dtracy03ss]

My whole deal on Higher power "Watts" Recievers Amps is Clean power, not Loud, IMHO The Clean Power of the high Power units is what I look for, never have gone by the Volume knob position because you Could be Clipping at Half Volume, so for me it's all about keeping the Sound Clean and taking care of your Speakers and Amps!

[@vanderpoolfarmsl.l.c.9983]

Excellent point!

[@jayyoung5423]

That was very informative, I never knew this or why the db pass, really good info, thanks again

[@phatsmitty]

As always, excellent Kevin. My kiddo is now hooked on vintage 2 channel, so I'll be ordering more shirts. For both of us

[@toddclarke1580]

That Au of yours is my holy grail, Sansui always has such an inviting sound with power . I’ll tell you from experience, my Sui 5050 comes on fast compared to my 9090db. My 9090 comes alive at half way.

[@michaelvaladez6570]

Alright Kevin..you chose my speakers of old..the Cerwin Vega..the same kind.I know these don't get there due with the audiophiles..but to each their own. Keep up the great work greatly appreciated this post !!!!!

[@analoglooney]

Keep in mind that most 'audiophiles' have never heard a pair of Cerwin Vega's or Bose 901's, they just parrot each other and bang on about mains cables.

[@dbert5963111]

very good explanation without going way out in the tall grass where the snakes reside.

[@skylabsaudio]

Thanks!

[@jaycoleman8062]

I think it boils down to the efficiency of the speakers you are trying to power. Great video. I guess i knew a little more than I thought about sensitivity. Giggle

[@jamesdicker5992]

Love this video! very informative and really important. Thanks guys

[@gregapodaca8337]

Kevin your video on the AU 20000 talked me into purchasing, then your video on having a matching tuner to have a set led me to buy a TT 9900 tuner. So happy I bit the bullet, please don’t convince me to purchase anything else till it sounds like a must have.

[@digthemedium]

I listen to most of your videos through modern speakers (Jamo C601's) which are powered by a Sansui 2020 (circa 1976?), which is an 18 watt receiver I don't see getting a lot of love online, but it sounds good to my ears!

[@josedavila5695]

Man! This helped me so much. I was trying to choose between the new 85th Wharfedale Linton vs Used/vintage Klipsch KC4's - I had the intuition that the more efficient Klipsch's would make it harder to adjust the volume on my Marantz 2230 - I went for the Lintons 90db and the 2230 pair incredibly well giving me different options in the volume dial. Your video really demystified the reasoning of my intuition. Thank you!

[@skylabsaudio]

Good call on the Lintons

[@josedavila5695]

@@skylabsaudio thanks and love your channel - the new t-shirts are looking nice!

[@JackT_Music_on_Vinyl]

This was a really great explanation of differences a d how it affects and is affected by the way gear is made. Never thought about volume pot taper. 😊Thanks!

[@LeRoySL-q5q]

Efficiency and headroom- thats what I want. Started using QSC power amps from 200-700 watts per channel for my home stereo just for the ability to run down to 2 ohms. Some speakers dip down to 3 ohms during normal use so these amps easily provide that current without any sacrifice in sound and dynamics. A lot of receivers could run into trouble at 4 ohms or below.

[@chuckgilly]

I have a nice collection of Renkus-Heinz pro gear to play with.

[@jasonwitters7860]

Thanks , I learned a little more today.

[@jim010109]

Great explanation. I have a newer Rotel Pre Amp, and the volume goes from 0-100, and it doesn't really open up till it reads 60 on the screen. I've heard from many folks that the speakers should be the first in building a system. Of course, when building my system, I did it ass backwards, lol.

[@bizeerog2281]

Great comparison of low wattage and high wattage amps with relation to speaker efficiency. Higher wattage amplifiers can supply the current required (power = amps squared x resistance) to charge large filter caps in the power supply which need more current to initially charge. These large filter caps are there to store energy when immediate high current is required to drive drivers especially woofers in the lower db speakers.

[@noahman27]

Nice! I learned something. Thank you brother.

[@skylabsaudio]

Glad to help

[@scottgremko4426]

I like your presentation, I learned alot about linear terms.👍

[@jhschmidMD4]

Hey Kevin! Thanks for posting this, as this is an important, although often misunderstood issue. For me, the watts issue is less about loudness, and more about dynamics and clarity. And, if I'm being perfectly honest it's more about current than it is about watts. I had a beautiful Yamaha receiver back in the early 80's, as my first foray into hi-fi. Though it was somewhat limited as far as input options go, it had a nice warm sound that I still miss to this day. It sounded wonderful with my efficient Dahlquist speakers, and it's 40 watts of output was more than enough to shake the room. However, when I came across a pair of Thiel speakers, which were a sealed acoustic suspension design, 4 ohm, and really tough to drive, the Yamaha just couldn't do them justice. Yes, it would play them, even to loud levels, but it didn't sound good. It was thin sounding, and the music had no life to it, even at low listening levels. Swapped the Yamaha for a 140 watt high current integrated, and the Thiel's woke up, and came alive! And for me, it was more about how clear and rich they now sounded at low volume, than the ability to blast out at full monty. Just my 2 cents...

[@skylabsaudio]

I agree, some speakers absolutely need current to wake up.

[@leonardblush2557]

Can definitely vouch for the volume control difference between a 2220B and a 2270. Offhand, the SX737 seems to be somewhere in between- perhaps closer to the 2270. Great vid!

[@joen2423]

*Looks over at SX-450 on shelf and smiles. My SX-850 definitely has trouble dialing in for listening under around 3w maybe.

[@diyi75]

Explains a lot. My VSX-1022-K & 935 have a much more liner volume curve than my old Kenwood vr6060. At first I was concerned, but the pioneers get louder and clearer past the halfway point👍🏾

[@larrysmith5413]

Yep. learned something … bulb lit. Thanks! Great video.

[@skylabsaudio]

Glad to hear it!

[@bikdav]

Excellent explanation. I learned something.

[@atw4321]

As a rule of mine is to match the amp watts to the power rating of my speakers...I run 4 polk s55 signature series & 2 two ch PA amps rated 200 watts as well as the speakers rating 200 watts...never have a issue with not enough sound 😅 Thanks Kevin...termiteaudio

[@johncunningham5435]

I have a pair of 4 ohm speakers, the Pioneer amp puts out 82 watts continuous power into 4 ohms per channel. The speakers are low efficiency, making the wattage ideal, but has more than enough power to effectively balance the high's and low without been blasted out of your chair, (with the vintage equipment to match).

[@EdLawless]

I am a bit of a hifi junky; I love old Sansuis, Pioneers and Marantz. I have built plenty of big wattage systems. But I got a project that use to belong to my grand father many years ago. It is a Pioneer SX-535; it came with bad transistors in the amplification section and noisy transistors in the pre-amp. I decided lets do a full restoration on this guy after it sat in an attic for the better part of 30 years; with a note that said it was damaging speakers. When I completed the work I paired it with a pair of new Klipsch book shelf speakers that were really efficient. For only have 20 watts a channel it sure can punch pretty hard. Sounds great in the dinning room. I am from the school of having a few more watts than you need is never a bad thing; but there is certainly more to the sound like frequency response and slew rate. I like the idea of being able to work an amp and not stress it out.

[@raygarafano3633]

RIGHT! If it has the beef you can play it as u want without clipping or taking off the top.of the audio wave which sort of ends up as D.C. I guess it could be likened to engines a 2 hp and a 20 hp. Both turning at 3000, yet one has much more torque in foot- pounds. If the load only needs 10 lbs of torque the engine can push that load all day n never break into a sweat. Push an amp.past it's rated figure an get distortion.

[@Russellsvinylcafe]

Really cool video 👍 After this one, perhaps a discussion about current and how the current of your receiver or amp needs to be considered is in order. And why some vintage gear with the same wattage rating can be more powerful than one another or vice versa.

[@alanmaier]

Being someone who restores audio as a hobby, I get sooooooo tired of people thinking you need "100 watts" for background music. My personal keeper speakers are old school Arnie era Infinity Reference Standard 2.5's, which are a 4-ohm speaker that dips below that... I drive them with a classic Carver MX-130 receiver and the power meters just start to blink when playing them loud. I could drive them with a 10 W/Ch amp if it had very high current capability.

[@j.patrickmoore9137]

Back in the day, I had the opportunity to tour Phase Linear's factory in Seattle. They filled the factory floor with background music from one Phase Linear 400, wired to about a dozen speakers per channel. Extremely low impedance load, the VU meters were dancing, but the amplifier wasn't clipping. It absolutely blew my mind to see that. Knowing that most speakers are rated with a "nominal" impedance and their actual impedance drops below that at certain frequencies, the amplifier was probably looking at a load of less than 1/2 ohm at some frequencies.

[@DethFromAbove1985]

I think these big watts people come from a car audio background. I remember having 200 watt or 50×4 decks for the car. There is no way they were that powerful.

[@danielleclare2938]

A lot of Watts are heat not sound. My brother purchased a Pioneer Something in 1974 was 20rms. He still has it no need for more. Great sound. Blue lighting with a red stereo indicator. Nice.

[@MyLittleBitOfEverything]

As I mentioned on Your Discord for a question, many amps/receivers have variable loudness compensation based on the position of the volume. This can cause more (or less) boost depending on how much boost has been set for a particular volume location. (in some cases creating the use of the irreplaceable multi-(3-4)gang volume potentiometers that can sometimes render a unit not repairable). Indeed your video was interesting as I never thought how much that is also effected by the match up between the unit and the efficiency of the speakers. It makes me understand Yamaha's providing a variable boost control instead of building it into the volume control on some equipment.

[@MrCrystalcranium]

In 1976, I bought a 15 WPC Technics Tuner/Amp and used it to make by ears bleed from vinyl, through CDs and then finally powering a home theater system. It finally gave up the ghost in 2012 but I loved that thing. Yes, I've been blown away by the looks and the depth of sound from the premium systems but, I had all I needed at 15 watts. The 15 watt amp here through the high efficiency speakers sounded fantastic. If I'm sitting in my basement mancave and I want to turn it up to 11, it better be no more than 25 watts or I'd have to move out. And frankly, who wants to listen to music so loud you can barely hear yourself talk? Great experience to go to a bar that's so loud you need to stand a foot away from a girl you're trying to talk to and you wind up spitting all over her face. No thanks.

[@johnandrews3568]

I had an SX450 for years and it was just a superb unit. I upgraded to a Rotel RA01 through some two way Paradigms... a great set up.

[@raygarafano3633]

I bought an SX-650 and at half volume hooked to a large pair of Magnavox 3- ways I had loads of volume at 17.5 watts.

[@granddad-mv5ef]

Outstanding content, and I really learned something----again! I do have a complaint however: You didn't let us listen to the music long enough; just as I was getting into it, you stopped it. LOL! I am moving in a few days and my system is broken down into containers. Thank you again, Kevin, for cluing me in!

[@skylabsaudio]

Yeah, sorry. Try to provide enough of the song without people clicking off. Thanks for the comment and feedback.

[@granddad-mv5ef]

@@skylabsaudio It wasn't REALLY a complaint. As far as your channel--I have no actual complaints.

[@sirsuse]

Thank you Kevin for the video. The 20dB attenuation on my SX-950 is engaged at least 95% of the time I'm listening. Otherwise, 9 o'clock is too loud for my wife and I. The receiver is paired with HPM-100's rated at 92.5dB at 1 watt at 3 meters distance.

[@skylabsaudio]

that's it! Good thing your 950 has that pad

[@sirsuse]

@skylabsaudio The pad is an excellent feature. I don't get why more receivers and amps don't have it.

[@stevenmilewski]

Hey Kevin! Another great video!.. a quick question if I may... to you and your tech savvy viewers... im looking to upgrade my equipment... i know you are a fan of Sansui.. I've been looking at possibly a Sansui 9090.... or a pioneer sx 1050 as my choices... (or maybe another similar suggestion) in your opinions... which is the better choice?.... thank you in advance!.... p.s. how's your dad doing?... haven't seen any updates.

[@skylabsaudio]

He is doing great, thank you! Cant go wrong with either. Our discord channel is the perfect place to get good purchasing advice.

[@foyboy03]

Love this channel. Great vibes. And amazing info

[@skylabsaudio]

I appreciate that!

[@ChevyJay283]

My 49-year old Pioneer SX-434 still sounds great in my office with my Infinity speakers!

[@stevenholquin2127]

Outstanding The Key 🔑 Word is Taper Which is Correct …..Audio Taper Is a Round Potentiometer or Short (Pot) If You Look At Some Marantz For Example The Pre/Amps and Amps They Have a Linear Taper or Slide Ether Vertical or Horizontal or Like a Mixing Board That Refers To Faders Yet They Are Also Linear Taper This Is So The End User Can See At a Glance Where Their Volume Level Is In Relation To The Other Channels….. I Know I Went Off Subject Yet Once You Used The Word Taper That Got My Attention Thanks Kevin You Did It Again

[@skylabsaudio]

Thanks!

[@Phiyedough]

It could be because I'm from UK but having dabbled with electronics since 1975 I have never heard the term "audio taper". I was also only aware of linear and logarithmic potentiometers, I had never heard of other types. The rule of thumb was you always specified a log pot. for volume.

[@robertdentel1775]

This answers my question of why my 200 watt McIntosh amp doesn’t shatter my windows at 12:00 on the volume dial.

[@HarryBishop-t6m]

You need the right speakers at the right frequency. You need to try harder. Don't forget the dustpan and broom.