Tool Offsets and Manual Tool Setters - Haas Tip of the Day

[@erimora8075]

Once I crash the renishaw tool setter, and I spent the rest of the day trying to remember how to set the offsets manually, nice video.

[@ivancelencina]

Hi community! I'm in the Industrial Technician school in Denmark, I'm using a VF2 and we measure the tool offset with a digital setter as in the video. We have a G154 P99 programable offset, so ass soon as that red light goes on, we press "tool offset measure". This save us to compensate any extra, but is important to remember to run the compensation in MDI before offsetting the tools. Thanks for the video Mark, as always!

[@Nasko627]

Това е мисля по добрия вариант и аз работя така

[@KaLiDEM]

Could you explain a bit more about the G154 P99 programable offset ? Sounds interesting, Thanks

[@ivancelencina]

​@@KaLiDEM I will try, this was some years ago and I'm not anymore with that machine. The idea is to place the tool setter on the working table and touch it with the spindle to store the Z value in an offset, in this case G154 P99. Once that’s done, with the offset active in the machine, you can put any tool into the spindle, then touch in the setter and when you’re ready you just press the “tool offset measure” button. So because you have G154 P99 active, the tool offset that will be updated in the tool will be the difference of the spindle offset stored in G154 P99 and the actual tool length. Again, I haven’t used this method for a few years, so I may be missing some details in this explanation. Cheers!

[@adammiller4879]

Everyone at my work uses fancy tool setters, I’m working on making one, I’m just glad I’m Not the only one that uses a 1,2,3 block for touching tools off. Newer people look at me like I’m crazy, I learned that trick from my old boss who has been running CNCs since the day you had to punch your code on paper. At my shop we use tool setters and probes, but occasionally on older machines I use 123 blocks on the vice

[@AlbertScoot]

This is basically what I do when I set my tooling. The machine I use at work is at the hobby level and isn't worth spending more money on more fancy height gauges and such.

[@bobcarlson7729]

used to do that until a part had to be put ontop of the vise. then we maybe riser blocks about 4-6" tall that are bolted to a back corner of the table. then use a 123 ontop of that. that way your reference point is always avaiable.

[@kirsch66]

Man, I seriously needed this video. I’ve been trying to figure out how to utilize the gainer gauge to set workpiece heights, and was just in a mental block. Perfect timing, great video!

[@SirRootes]

Thanks for the video Mark! This explains a lot! I have been a lathe guy for over 15 years and our shop got our first VMC a few months back. I was wondering about a few things like this and you made it very clear for me. Cheers mate!

[@zztuber6164]

I'm in the exact same scenario. i was shitting a brick before this video.

[@HenryBjorge]

Oh my golly, I understand everything this video explained. I know so much more about setting tool offsets but I know this information can't be shared due to how we set tools in our shop. It's so interesting how something so simple can be extremely complex in the different way we touch tools off

[@usrenmae]

We use a pretty cheap tool probe and set all the tools to the top of it. We don't subtract to get us to the table. The we then touch off our part with our haimer stored as a tool. When we touch off we hit part measure and then we add the tool offset value for the haimer.

[@Ddabig40mac]

I clearly need to step up my Z offset game. Thanks for the tips!

[@5starmachineko971]

I love using the Renishaw probe! I keep extra batteries

[@ryanr2n2yc]

This was the best video ever. I totally needed this exact information. Thanks Mark!

[@jamessnook8449]

Mark, as always excellent video. I have a 2003 Mini Mill and I used the paper shim method for 20 years, but as someone pointed out below - you had to redo every tool height when you changed to a new part. I needed to do something to cut down on my tool setup time, so a couple of years ago I got a Heimer and a 2" high tool height gauge (like the 4" one in you video). Typically I don't have access to the bed of the mill, so I put the tool height gauge on to the body of the vise installed and set all of the tools to it including the Heimer (The tool offsets go in the location for the respective tool and I usually put the Heimer height at tool location 20 since I only have a 10 piece tool holder). When I put in the material to cut, I use the heimer to get the Z height of the material and put that in tool offset location 21 (or 22,23, ... if there are multiple heights) . The I just subtract the part height from the Heimer reference height - so for my first part height in G54 I use: tool offset 20 - tool offset 21 = my G54 Z offset. For the next part height ( if there is one) it would be tool offset 20 - tool offset 22 = G55 Z offset. This way all of my tools are already set to my Heimer reference height and when I need to machine a different part - I just measure the new material height with my Heimer and put that number in tool offset 21 then subtract it from my Heimer reference height (tool 20) and put the result in the Z offset for G54. It saves me so much time.

[@joshcommet137]

very helpful distance to go trick!

[@humanspirit3432]

We used a surface plate with a hole for instrument cone. Then we put a tool on the surface plate, cone in the hole. And then we measure height of endmill using height gauge. A bit strange, not precise (+/- 0.1 mm) and error prone method. It works but not convenient and not precise.

[@thomashaapalainen4108]

In my shop when dealing with raw stock we touch off our first tool typically a shell mill with a gage block. Subtract the difference along with an additional .03 of stock. Then we touch off all other subsequent tools and use negative z offsets in our tool offsets, leaving our work piece offsets as Z0 . When we are working on further operations we tough off the bottom of our fixture or jaws with a gage block and subtract the different and add in the height of the part based on where it is being held onto by the touch off point of the fixture. Still leaving works peice offset Z0.

[@stevemccluskey7102]

When I was first learning CNC, I was taught to touch off all tools using a paper shim to the top of the work piece stock. If ANYTHING changed, youd have to touch off all the tools again. When I got my first job as a machinist, we were taught to touch off all tools to the table, which is a common datum plane, which makes WAY more sense, using a 2x4x6 block and a half inch dowel pin. This keeps the spindle pretty far from the table, which can prevent bumps to tall items such as rotary axes. Jog the tool down near the block, slide it under, then jog the tool away from the pin till it clears. Then subtract 6.5" from the length. The tool length is now set as the distance from Z home to the table. Work Z offset was the distance to the table to the top of the finished work piece. Taller parallels? Just raise your Z offset.

[@callumm9049]

This totally makes sense, I used to use the paper method too but I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve chipped a brand new end mill by doing this

[@Austin17070]

On all my machines that don't have a tool probe, I like to keep one work offset dedicated to tool touch offs. I use G129, which is set 3" above the table or sub-plate (depending on the machine). When the operators need to manually touch off tools, they simply execute the "Tool Touch Off" program and it moves to G129 X0. Y0. (a clear XY space on the table). Then they just have to jog the tool down and touch the tool off using a 1-2-3 block on the 3" side and hit "Tool Offset Measure." It eliminates the step of having to subtract 3" after the touch off. Very easy procedure to train and very repeatable. It's worth noting that my processes are set up for "machine operators" rather than actual Machinists. Simplification is always a good thing though, no matter the skill level.

[@axisfiveraxisfiver5844]

could you do a video on positive offsets sir mark?

[@CueballcontrolSometimes]

Positve length of the gauge length of tool, measured tools stored in carousel work for any job.

[@glendetlefsen7206]

I use the Renishaw probe and tool setter. It's awesome! I used to use the piece of paper on top of the part method.

[@markterryberry4477]

The probe is the best. For the first few years of my career ('90s) we didn't have any probes, but once I got my hands on one I never looked back. I've asked specifically for Through Spindle Coolant and Probing, whenever we'd order up a new machine, because it just made my life so much easier as the machinist. We have quite a few videos on probing out there, and the CAM packages are all leaning into probing now as well, allowing us to write probing routines from our CAM program, just as easily as a drilling operation.

[@bagoh20]

We use multiple methods, but for when they use the paper method, I have provided all my machinists with small 1"X 2" pieces of 0.001" thick stainless shim stock. These are cheap and east to make, and can be cut with regular scissors. They don't fall apart when when wet and they are a reliable thickness and reusable many times. You're pretty much right on zero when that shim stops moving under the tool.

[@bobhemphut4011]

I ran pricey lathes for a few years using the paper method that most of the guys recommended and used in the shop. 90% of the time works fine... but I realized after some time that there were certain tools and situations were the paper isn't the best method. That shim stock will help from breaking/chipping some stuff.

[@colehawkins6623]

Merry Christmas from AK, my first machine “TM-0P” will be here the day after Christmas and I definitely feel my learning curve will be much shallower thanks to all of HAAS’s great tutorials. I ordered a prob but have been eating up all the videos I can on work and tool offsets so I know the process behind it all. Thanks again.

[@salvadorebertolone]

O man, cant wait to use the mem button tomorrow. I always just use a calculator and the origin button on the operator position. I use the same haimer indicator, and same techniks tool setter. On super fine height work (engraver) i will use a beater gage block and still use the work surface as the reference and jog down and check each .0001 increment. I was curious how to use a positive number for tool length when using tools between machines, we have a vf2 and vf3, never thought to use the positive gage length to the table in the tool wear column, i never use it and totally forgot its there. Best haas tip of the day!!!

[@MrCoffeypaul]

Thanks Mark, any hope you could show us the same on a lathe?

[@markterryberry4477]

Paul, check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJWVpmWDfJugm7s

[@MrCoffeypaul]

@@markterryberry4477 Thanks Mark. Love the videos!

[@rjwalker1973]

I set mine on a 5 inch block I made. First my edgefinder which stays in the machine as my g154 p130 z offset since I do not use that offset for anything else. Then I set each tool to my block. Now all my tools are touched of together. All I got to do is set my actual workoffset z with my edgefinder lije g54 usually to the stock top. If I break a tool I have a common standard to set them at if the part is in process

[@EduardSidorov-i3f]

Thanks for the video Mark.This was the best video.

[@7891ph]

Our shop uses the 3" side of a 1-2-3 block as our standard. I personally use the style of tooling light you showed on top of a 1-2-3 block on its 1" face as it's a lot harder to chip a cutting edge than if you use the 1-2-3 block itself.

[@mariocortes1337]

Super amazing 👏, you're a very good teacher ,thanks very much, very educational videos.

[@callumm9049]

I love my Edge Technologies height setter, i use it every day on the VF6 and guard it with my life!

[@dfpolitowski2]

I bring the tool down until it hits a piece of . oo1 metal shim stock. Works great. I do manual machining.

[@NotDerekSmart]

I personally like using a broken carbide end mill and touch off on the solid back end of a vice. After that adjust my G54 or the like. A close second is touching off at the very top of my parallels.

[@Scooter-k1h]

I do the same spot, only with paper. Well, if the machine doesn't have the Rennishaw Tool setter that is. I figured out this trick on my own. Apprentices have the advantage now with Mark.

[@Hendreh1]

Great video. 👍 I eyeball the z offset most of the time . 😊 And xy offsets with the wobble shaft 10mm

[@max-weber]

I use the Edge Technology 4" Tool Setter on the body of my fixed jaw. Then I come in with a Haimer probe and measure the Z distance between the top of the fixed jaw and the workpiece. Since all my tools are set to 4 inches above the vise, I reduce the chance of a crash if a Z offset is missed since most of my parts are shorter than 4 inches. After a dry run and when I'm ready to take a cut, I subtract 4 inches from the Z offset my Haimer probe picked up and I'm good to go.

[@maxcnc777]

I made my own tool setter like the ones illustrated here close to 20 years ago.. and it works better than any store bought setter I've used. My method is almost identical to this video, but instead of dropping each tool by entering -2.000 (in the case of this video) I just drop all of the tools simultaneously using the Z column on G54 work offset. We also use the same column to drop the tools an additional .01 or so, so there is stock to face off. I also machined and ground a standoff I use in tandem with the tool setter, so I can come back to the exact same spot every time I need to swap out tools. The standoff stays on the machine. I use an empty work offset (G59 etc.) to make it easier to get there.

[@ugccrawl6850]

I've often used a gauge pin similar to how you used the 123 block. Jog the tool to an obviously lower position than the pin diameter, keep the pin against the tool as you slowly jog z up. When the pin rolls under, you have your position.

[@samuelgoertz5072]

Same here if not using a tool setter gage. If I have jog increments at .001, when compensating the tool length to account for the gage pin, I add .0005 to the diameter of the pin. If using. 010 increments(usually only drills, or some other insensitive Z length tool), I compensate by adding .005.

[@ipadize]

we use either laser sensor in the machine or an optical presetter to set the tool lengths (spindle face is zero). Then we use the 3d touchprobe to touch off the part. done.

[@PascalScheffers]

I use a Haimer 3D probe and a tool setter with indicator and precision surface like the first one shown in the video. I simply zero the Haimer on the tool setter reference surface, and store that as in work offset G110. I did this once, months ago. You also need to set relative tool length measure on, I don’t remember which setting number this is or if this is by default (I have an ‘06 mini mill). To measure a tool length, first do G110 in MDI (I have a label on the tool setter to remind me) Then you touch the tool on the setter and hit tool length measure. To set part a zero, just zero the Haimer on the part, hit part zero. And done. No typing numbers other than G110 in MDI. This means that frequent operations require zero thought, and less frequent ones require just slightly more thought, but never manual number entry.

[@shanebonato309]

I feel like this is the easiest way of setting tools, it's how I've done it since I started as a machinist however we just use G59.

[@PascalScheffers]

@@shanebonato309 yeah. Any spare work offset number would work. One of the bonus things of this method is you can just touch off tools with paper method on the work piece of you feel like it. All you’re actually doing is recording how much longer or shorter than the Haimer your tools are.

[@andygustilo5542]

thank you for all the great videos. they are very helpful. can you please put a link to where we can get the tool setters? i can find most of it but the one i'm looking for is your 2" presetter. thank you

[@EduardSidorov-i3f]

Mark Thank you for the instructional video.

[@equilibriumxi]

good friend made a custom macro for a 50mm toolsetter for me, simply run down to 0 on the setter and the marcro does the maths from knowing the 50mm setter height and the spindle nose to table height. Doing it this way avoids any manual calculation or entry mistakes plus ends up with a positive tool length number in the tool offset table that equals the length of the tool from the spindle nose which is great for being able to put a ruler next to the tool for a quick check.

[@mauriceschouten278]

Exactly how I work to calibrate my tools.

[@jonesadang3323]

Amazing! Could you copy that macro here?

[@JS-cs8gz]

All Z offsets are relative to the point of reference whether it is a table, precision gage, tool probe. Once the point of reference is changed then all Z offsets must be touched off to the new point of reference (if you intend to avoid a crash). Being able to comprehend makes the utilization of offsets less intimidating. I've had to place fixture offsets that are off the table (out of travel range) through the use of a point of reference.

[@markterryberry4477]

Great way of saying it. The confusion is that lots of people and shops use a different point of reference. If working with others, we have to communicate a single point of reference for touchoffs. Your having to set a zero outside of the table is funny, these unique situations come up and it feels good when we figure them out- little personal triumphs.

[@RoboDriller]

How do you know what the point of reference is. I got a Robodrill used, the previous users tool lengths are all small negative values. Like -2.5555" My Machine z 0 is all the way up and all travel is negative. I thought using my spindle nose 6" off the table as the Orgin, then measure the tools off that 6" block. It gives all positive numbers.

[@akronimm862]

MOM, THERES A NEW T.O.D

[@masonkubecka9163]

I was taught to use the back of a broken half inch endmill to touch off manually. (I’ve found it’s a lot harder to chip your tools.) For setting work offsets I just use a tool that’s already been touched off the table. (As you have shown this is a large negative number.) When touching off the top of my part with the 1/2 inch pin I hit part zero set (this will give you a large negative number in your work offset page) then type in the large negative tool length but positive. This will give you the distance from the table to the top of your part. This is why I hate that y’all split the work and tool offset tables on the next gen control. I now have to go back to tool offsets check my length then go back to work and type it in. I hope this makes sense.

[@chrisbarron6658]

i usually jog down the tool until it breaks.

[@blarbysliggelberry3896]

i usually jog down till the tool breaks then back up four thou.

[@richardunis9204]

Great video 👍

[@alexhorne4189]

Set your retract plane your tool setter height or a "check it with a 1 2 3 block dimension" off your top of stock or z 0 depending on which clears. This allows you to easily spot check your tool lengths when providing out a program

[@dylanrink3130]

I have a renishaw tool probe and spindle probe, I have the spindle probe zeroed at the tool probe face and use a master tool calibrated to the tool probe, it compares the offsets saved to set both my tools and my part, if ever I have an electronic issue I use a big daishowa base master as a backup. Love the way my renishaws do business

[@samuelgoertz5072]

I take this a step farther. I set a WPC Z offset for my tool touch-off indicator relative to the face of the spindle(not the lugs) and G53 machine Z position. I activate this WPC(ussually G59, via mdi) before setting tool offsets. A bonus is that I have a reference to visually verify the length of the tool with a tape measure. Using this, I also use known tool lengths, or the face of the spindle only to set WPC Z0 at finish faces of all workpieces, yes you must subtract the tool length or gage, or paper... (bonus... when Z position is at G53 Z0 position, I also can visually check WPC Z0 with a tape measure, reference the WPC Z offset. Another way to set the tool length is to use a gage pin or block instead of the 1-2-3 block. I prefer rolling a gage pin under the tool as I raise the tool in Z.

[@CueballcontrolSometimes]

I believe we are using a similar method, do you get a positive tool length of the gauge length when pressing the "Tool Length Measure"?

[@samuelgoertz5072]

@@CueballcontrolSometimes Positive Tool Length, -Z axis WPC.

[@philhashier3126]

Mark, we love your videos. I love showing them in my CAM courses at our local college. What software do you guys use to create these videos? Phil

[@markterryberry4477]

We are using quite a few different CAM systems here at the factory, with lots of the Applications Engineers and Product Specialists using whatever software they had used in industry, and in our own Haas Machine Shop. Mastercam, Fusion 360, CAMWorks, hyperMILL, HSMWorks, Esprit, and Gibbs are the ones we use most often, but we hear from our people in the field who are making use of all kinds of software, from the ones we mentioned to SolidCAM, OneCNC, Surfcam, and others. Different CAM companies have better support in different parts of the world, but this is changing with so much great training online now. It sounds like a long list of CAM software, but we really do have a lot of guys using all kinds of different software here. One of the nice things about a Haas, is that all of the CAM companies have great Post Processors for our machines, making for a great synergy between machine and software.

[@markterryberry4477]

:) if you meant the videos themselves, our editors use Adobe Premier and After Effects, along with Cinema 4d

[@jessejarvis3646]

We use tool probes mostly if our machines have them

[@syxxphive126]

On our Doosan, I just the renishaw spindle and tool probe to set everything. That’s why we spent the money on it.

[@topiuusi-seppa5277]

My face when I find out even Haas uses the exact same analog 3D sensor I literally had to beg for at my last machining workplace 😅 returned for summer job after first year of university and find out they had pretty much completely switched over to that type 😄

[@reyspec]

i just always use the same tool presetter and don't substract its height... as long as i always use the same reference it work 100% of the time!

[@mica4153]

I had no idea about the distance to go zero trick. Here I was using a calculator! xD

[@markterryberry4477]

We can always go to the POSITION Screen, and use the OPERATOR Position as well. We can Zero-out any Axis value on the Position>Operator screen by entering the axis letter followed by "Origin". X-Origin, Y-Origin, Z-Origin. Using the Operator Position takes a little longer to zero-out, but it is less likely to get overwritten like our Distance to Go value. For quick work, I use the DTG value though, it is just too easy.

[@justinmoritz6543]

So I used to do Tool Length Offsets like this. Then I realized a much better way to do it. Some machines like the Mori Seiki I run have this feature built in. First you need to know the Spindle Face/Nose to the table distance. This distance will be a very large negative number. That is your total stroke length on in the Z axis. With this number in mind. perform a similar action, but for a tool in the spindle. Either perform a simple calculation of the difference or that value, or perhaps activate a work offset with this absolute stroke length as your work offset. Either way, the ultimate function of this procedure is to obtain a *positive* tool length since they're are no negative lengths. Having a large negative number for the TL offset and a small positive number in the Work Offsets does work still.

[@MrVinicius343]

on older mitsubishi controls i worked on, setting toll offsets was so easy. the control recorded a tool offset measure plane. like the table of the machine, and would never forget that value unless you wanted to. so setting a tool was simples as just touching off that tool on the touch off plane and hit measure. to get the work offset we would usually have a tool with offset 0, and touch off that tool on the z0 of the part then hit measure. on siemens controls you have it easy. because all the tools on the magazine can be used to set work offsets. the sinumerik control automaticaly corrects the tool offset and you just need to touch any tool on the part. dosnt need to be z0 if you want to, for setting tool offsets, you can use any known plane and the machine will do the math for you. on heidenhain its also easy to pickup part offsets with tools, as the tool offset will be always be compensated automatically but, the tool offset can only be pickedup on work offset z0. or else you'll need to do so math and measuring.

[@jeremiahreschke8091]

I really like this video. I would personally just make a fixture to use a heigth gage and set the tool lengths to positive. Then bring any tool to the work hit part zero set and subtract the tool lenght from the work offset. Then you always know how long your tools actually are.

[@reyspec]

G52?

[@dillansherwood2930]

We use a tool setter on the table and have the bottom of our vices offset written down and simply add the height of the parallels and part and then set that as the part offset

[@mcping]

I zero on the tool setters edge and set my haimer as T0 Z0 on my Siemens G500 (like extended G54 offset). All tools are then offsetted from that. If I break a tool mid run, I thrown out my tool setter again on the table and re-measure new tool.

[@dineshkadlag4628]

Nice information

[@TwoBirdsOneStoned420]

How would you use the dial indicator to get the distance from the table to the top of the part?

[@skyclone9]

We have tool setters that we use, but on one of our machines, we have a fancy laser measuring system. When you load a new tool, it measures length and diameter of the tool.

[@zajawamotocykle9256]

Epic video 🥰

[@ytfan3815]

Hi Mr. Terryberry, When you have let's say 20 identical parts ( G54 - G154 P14 ) with different heights on fixtures and you want to do a test RUN 4" above the parts, how do you do that. We have other controls like Fanuc/Mitsubishi which have an EXT(60) in the G54_table where we can add a XYZ value. When I input a + Z4. on the EXT(60) ALL Z-levels going up by 4" for a safe check RUN. We have a Haas ST25Y Next-Gen, when I use G54 and G55 on a part I add a +Z value on both Offsets for a test RUN, is there an easier way to do that, it's always a bit tricky to change your Offsets, in this case there are only two (Z) Offsets to change so no big deal. I think the Haas lathe has the same Offset table like a Haas mill.

[@markterryberry4477]

We would usually just do the same thing that you mentioned doing for your ST-25Y. To run 4" high above a part, we will just add 4" to that part's Z-Axis Work Offset, like G54. Now, we can add a global shift of Z4" to our G92 value, which is the last row on our Work Offset page (by default, when Set. 33=Fanuc), but we need to make sure that we don't leave this value in there, or it might confuse people later on. G92 works well, for shifting all Work Offsets at once, but it can be complicated for operators, and we usually steer away from its use if we can. Check out the Mill Manual for more information about G92.

[@ytfan3815]

@@markterryberry4477 Hi Mark, thanks for your answer. I checked the Offset table on our the Haas ST25Y and below the last G154 P99 there is a [ G50 ] and [ COMM ] row for the different axis, it's for the Global shift. I've tried a +Z value on both [ G50 _ COMM ] and the Z shifts by the value entered, btw I couldn't find anything on the [ COMM ] in the manual. Why is there no [ COMM ] on your mills, it would be easy to shift all Offsets with only one value so that you don't need G92.

[@lennysweet8336]

Can you talk about and explain workshifts

[@heyspanky5695]

If I have to set my tools manually, I'll use any of the methods provided but I dont bother with the tool height offset to the table. Just set your work piece "z" as the difference from the top of your tool gage surface to your work piece Z zero. Saves you a step and I think it's more accurate.

[@jasongamer8649]

I must have learned this method from the Haas installer years ago, it's pretty straight forward. Tool offsets for tools that stay in pockets only has to be done once, changing stock is simply touching the stock with a set tool, minus the difference and all tools are good to go. Not sure why they us the H value wear offset at all?

[@yourijuteau]

Is it possible to run a custom Macro when the Tool Offset Button is trigger. Because we could read the current machine position and set the Z tool-offset like we want. Normally, if you have an external tool setter, the tool lenght is all the time positive from the spindle nose contact. If you have one method for manual lenght offset and an other one when you use tool-setter big crash can be expected. Also wear Z-offset is normally to adapt for mismatch, so small amount, not 2".

[@phillippeabody1056]

Program of the front finished surface , use work offset to move off the bottom of work piece surface being held

[@darrenvosper634]

Could just use the tool setter height. Then on the last tool touched set the operator page z to zero then jog to the top of the work piece and put the z value from your operator page reading in your G54 z. Done then if you want to say face the stock just drop your G54 z say -0.01" and all the tools will be dropped by the 0.01".

[@jasongamer8649]

The most correct method as far as I have seen. Touching every tool on every new workpiece is a bridge too far. 😆

[@thokes82]

You probably should have mentioned Setting 64 in this context. It could be essential when using this method if you are in the wrong work offset

[@vlad55775]

Наконец то дождался!

[@tinustrekeend]

Dear mark, I am a Haas engineer from the the Netherlands, how can we use an external tool presetter and these measure methodes, can you send me some tips? Keep up the good work you do!

[@markterryberry4477]

That is a great topic. We will definitely do that one. When we touch-off our tools manually, we end up with negative Tool Offsets, like -22.0" (-558.8mm), when we use our machine probing system, or an Offline Tool Presetter, we use Positive Tool Length Offsets, like 5.0" (127.0mm). We will move this video up on the list.

[@LeckieInstallsLondon]

Why wouldn’t you probe to the top of a 2in block first and set z in g54 then set your tool heights from the 2in tool setter? Since 9/10 times youll be using that same probe to set your wcs, could save you the step and potential error of entering -2.0 every tool, you dont want to see what happens when you miss that minus sign!!

[@Chronepsis]

same method basically g54 as work offset g59 as zeroing offset 50mm tool for zero similar to the second showed touch at 0 z enter c, +50 enter (fanuc mynx750)

[@ivanolivares4429]

The paper method is the best/ technology that’s out there

[@huequeen8]

I have a question. Why doesn't Haas do like Fadal? It ask for the height of your gage. Already add in.

[@sportbob06]

Why take the 2" out to get to the table? Just put the work offset from tool touch gauge to part Z zero....done.

[@akronimm862]

That’s exactly what I do at work.

[@GRTLRS]

I think the purpose is to be able to use whatever height setter you want. If you can't find that touch off gage, or someone else is using it, you can just use whatever you have handy to touch off to the table. This way it is always using the table surface as reference. As Mark shows, you can use any height touch off gage. 1", 2", 4", etc. Your method works too, but you must always use the same touch off point, since that's your reference.

[@jasongamer8649]

@@GRTLRS Good answer, but of course best practice is always use the same reference that never leaves that machine. Traveling height gauges tend to get lost and dropped.

[@dkh100]

tool probe using g43 for positive tool offsets vs negative.

[@tungnguyen-dj3so]

Hey guy where to buy the 1st tool Mark using?

[@diederrr]

I am following this exactly on a 2007 VF2, Why do I alarm out when I use a POSITIVE number in G54 "z offset" - Alarm #318 , Over Z travel range? my tool offsets are negative (-16 or so) distance between the table where I zero'd tools and top of work is 7.0" any suggestions or am I missing a setting somewhere?

[@ksanalyticalsystems2438]

This would be a lifesaver if my tool probe died.

[@GRTLRS]

Sometimes we forget to order batteries. In that case, if you have a known good tool already in the machine, you can mill something flat (or use a vise bed/table surface, etc) and set your operator coordinates to the length of that tool. Then bring an unknown length tool to touch that same surface (or on a gage tool.) Your operator coordinates will have the length of the unknown tool.

[@HenryBjorge]

I always have probe stylists in my desk for that reason, my boss hates they sit around in a drawer but no one give me credit for keeping one in my desk. Same with batteries. Make sure not to but any probe batteries later than 1 year after the manufacturer date

[@JM-br9sp]

Please don't use the wear offset column to compensate for tool setters. That is the tool geometry. A lot of times the machine will alarm out if the wear offset is over 50 tho

[@tylerpeterson604]

Do you even have to subtract 2 inches for the touch off tool cant you just zero on top of the touch of tool and then go to work piece. saves subtracting the 2 inch on every tool right? just if u replace a tool, set new tool on tool setter and dont subtract 2 inches?

[@keithhansen3963]

The probe on my Haas has certainly spoiled me, but they EAT batteries so there you are stuck without replacemets. Part set works easy enough on X&Y with a edge finder but Z is a little trickier. Good to remember the old ways before probes

[@karlomoharic3992]

You calibrate height gauges by turning them upside down and pressing them down on a mill table. Lot better solution then gauge pins or 1-2-3 blocks.

[@Brando23Commando]

I'm taking classes for milling and forgot to offset when I changed the direction to ccw.(day 4 of class) needless to say it blew the mill apart. I asked to have the teacher double check and he told me "you know what to do". Hope he don't fail me

[@abetteryou2025]

no g10?

[@kaushalprajapati1127]

i use a carbon paper to touch off my tools. the carbon paper is exactly 0.03mm of thickness. i place the paper on the face where i need to touch my tool and jog and tool on paper in 0.01 increments and while i keep sliding my carbon paper and at a point the paper wont slide and it ll stop, i ll take that point as my tool offset.

[@carreteFILMSPro]

I come from 5 axis CNC routers programming. Silly question here: Why do you have to go thru all this drama for every tool? Don't these CNC come with an auto tool length measuring sensor for tool length compensation? You should only be loading the tool on the carousel tool chamber, then tell the machine to auto measure every one of them and DONE! You can use G54 for every tool within a (Sub-Pro-operation) knowing the the exact distance from the tool holder to the top of your stock, your machine is supposed to auto tool compensate for every tool, it would never miss it or crash. Sorry! Had to ask, just curious!!!

[@dundomaroje9627]

I use broken endmill Ф6 (mm) turned upside down in short Weldon. It's lenght is always 0 . With "zero tool" i touch the top of the precision made block 30mm and save offset in G59. For masuring of all tools i call the tool, and then call G0 G59 in MDI, and touch the top of the same 30mm block. Tools are almost always, longer than "zero tool". Same "zero tool" i use to get Z point for all workpieces, using steel ribbon 0.1mm thick, and then substract 0.1 of offset lenght to match "zero tool" with surface of the workpiece (My English is bad, i know)

[@dundomaroje9627]

Sometimes, especially when i measure drill bits in the middle of the process, i measure them on top of the part using not paper, but aluminum foil from chocolate or plastic foil of candies.

[@DanEndo]

Why insist in use inches?

[@markterryberry4477]

Thanks for the comment, it's a good reminder that most of the world, and most Haas customers, are running their machines in Metric Mode (Setting 9=mm). Here in the US, we work primarily in Inches, but that is slowly changing. In a very unscientific survey of Machinists, here in the US, we found that nearly 40% of users are working in Metric - and again, that is in the US. So, perhaps 70% of Haas Users Worldwide work in Metric.

[@j.morales3166]

I use a 1,2,3 block, then I touch the tip of my nose and stand on one foot. I hit tool offset measure, then after that I go into the tool offset page, subtract the diameter of the earth, hit the F1 button then I have all the information I need.

[@jepeu8522]

does mazepin know how to do this

[@drissde2028]

👍🏻

[@leizhao1387]

cooooooooooooool

[@germannunez6868]

Sounds very complicated.

[@ryanoglesbee1235]

gosh i just wanted robots to do the already come ghal

[@michaelmurphy748]

Setup's should not be so complicated! Designate your setting tool and touch ALL tools off that. Then for your work (piece) offset, put the difference between tool length and your work Z0. This means that if a tool breaks or needs to be changed sometime during the production run of the part, almost anyone with some basic training can re-touch the tool off and continue in production. Also, don't designate your tool length offset to touch off on the raw stock material, if you have to change a tool mid-program, you have nothing to touch off of and most programs cut the 'top' surface first (and nothing guarantees the raw stock is the same size, though it should be close if you holding ±.001 you can screw yourself over).

[@edhver7694]

хаас хорошие удобные станки со стойки кодить милое дело. st20y супер вещь

[@muddybuddys1135]

Probe lol

[@stevegrimeszz]

Set tool .1 above the finish part is how it’s done. We can’t use the table. And they are to grumpy to change

[@drissde2028]

👍🏻