Top 10 Drilling Tips for Knife Makers

[@leighchristopherson2455]

The drill that Mr. Sorrells referred to as a countersink drill is actually referred to as a centre drill (center for you Americans). It is most commonly used as a starter drill, the way he was using a spotting drill. It is short and has a small point with a 60° shoulder that is intended for a lathe centre. By drilling different depths the shoulder makes different diameter holes, this can be used to accomodate many sizes of drills, unlike a spotting drill, which requires a different spotting drill for every different size hole that you want to drill. A tip on reaming, is to double drill your starting hole, that is, drill a hole that is considerably undersized, then drill slightly undersize, then ream. This avoids drilling an oversize hole before you even get to the reamer. E.G. to ream a 1/4" hole first drill 7/32" then 15/64" then ream. To drill a deep hole, without the bit wandering "peck drill". Put pressure for a couple of seconds then ease off, repeat until you reach desired depth, occasionally removing the drill from the hole, to both clear the chips, and apply coolant (which is what a machinist calls what Mr. Sorrells calls "lube").This technique will keep your holes square through the work piece, which can be important for parts like pommels.

[@gaberoo9099]

Love the video. Excellent to have it split into chapters (super convenient). Will be going back and rewatching. Thanks again!

[@michaell397]

Good stuff Mr. Walter! Where were you when I started? Or for that matter, where was I when you started? Either way, LOL!!! KnifeMaker/Retired, 47 years in the Craft P.S. good advice about using less speed the larger the bit. In the same token, I can't tell you how many makers snap small bits due to too low a speed. I've advised to use higher speeds for smal lpin holes and have been told I'm nuts. So I keep drilling with no issues and I guess they keep snapping small drills of in holes. Gotta Love It! KM

[@Aleeknives]

Hey Walter I love your videos thank you for your professional Insight. keep up the good work! Do you have a crew that helps you do your videos or you doing them yourself? I spend more time setting up my camera to get shots than anything!

[@mlopezrossi]

Thanks! Thanks! Thanks! Many many of them to you Walter!

[@NRiggiKnives]

Great tutorial and tips as always. I drill thousands of holes a month for the bevel jigs I make and I use pretty month all of your techniques (other than the mill!!). One day....

[@907flyfishing]

Bro..can I see one of your jigs?. [e-mail]

[@ChuckNorrisUltra]

@@907flyfishing kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3TappSVr7Omm9E

[@matthbva]

Great tips, Walter. I learned a lot. Thanks!

[@lostfound8112]

Lots of good advice

[@TerryPullen]

"Blunder smarter", I'm going to use that one.

[@darkwinter6028]

Most people don’t realize it, but twist drills don’t make circular holes - the hole you get is actually tri-lobed. To get a really accurate hole, the general manual machine shop approach is to spot it (for location), drill it (for bulk material removal), bore it (to establish circularity and get close to final size), and then finally ream to final size. Time consuming, yes... but you can get more-or-less dead on holes this way. CNCs, of course, can do it in one step; by using an end mill and running it in a circle around the inside of the hole...

[@publicmichaelzmit]

Spot on. A two cut drill will always make a tri-lobe hole. No CNC will match the roundness of reaming and honing

[@darkwinter6028]

Michael Schmidt - weeelllll... unless it’s a CNC reaming & honing cycle. 😉

[@johnrice1943]

Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@simonhopkins3867]

How about the stuby spotting and countersink bits/drills?

[@kegcoffeetable]

Good tutorial man , thanks.

[@monkpato]

Another great video, thanks!

[@kennoe3438]

You can always use turpentine to for hardened steel and Cobalt bits works very well for a cutting agent

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Great video and tips Walter, thank you! P.S. You said something about punching a prick before drilling, so I went out, found what I thought was a prick, and punched him... The problem is, now I need bailed out of jail for assault, can you help me?

[@gamer2101]

Lmao. 😂

[@sttonep242]

Cool transitions!

[@Ray-gz4ut]

Damn, a day late a dollar short. Just last week I had a problem drilling 1095, could have used this video then. Thank you for the great advice.

[@isaaclandau5751]

Thanks Walter!

[@thedude8356]

Drill press or a belt sander if you had to choose

[@steveskouson9620]

Drill bits? Cobalt or Kobalt? Funny, Kobalt doesn't make a cobalt drill bit. What if all I have is a Home D? Seriously, some GREAT advice. (If you can, find an ANTIQUE ShopSmith Model 10. The Model 10 [10 E or 10ER] are STILL the best drill presses and lathes, that ShopSmith ever made. They were VERY over-engineered,and are still being used by the factory, to make the new ShopSmiths. On Craigslist, $200 is expensive.) steve

[@timhubbard7656]

You can get cobalt bits at HD. Milwaukee makes them and they are awesome

[@LatteDZ]

You always need to tighten all 3 sides of the drill chuck.

[@Ray-gz4ut]

Is that really a thing?

[@LatteDZ]

@@Ray-gz4ut yeah, that what I been told. Let's wait what the experts got to say.

[@ChuckNorrisUltra]

@@LatteDZ lol

[@timjackson5555]

Use only solid carbide, then pull my CoolMist from my grinder and spray it with a constant water mist.

[@TomPuetz]

I think a $1,999.00 JET 350017/JMD-15 Milling/Drilling Machine would be an option between a drill press and an $8,000.00 milling machine. I'm might get a JET.

[@waynekerr2472]

I got a precision matthews I think it's a pm25 it's been good to me and is a great drill press

[@ChuckNorrisUltra]

My wife is going to kill me.

[@chuckbobuck1302]

"Cheapest piece of Harbor Freight crap". Yeah I tried that and my hand drill still works better even after 10 cups of coffee.

[@Vassenden_yt]

This is my first ever first

[@nml5536]

👍

[@tylerkrug7719]

👍🏽

[@iamarawn]

If you step a bit further away from the camera, it's less obvious that you are reading the text from a teleprompter or something similar.

[@wumarNart]

So this video was just to trick us into buying a mill.

[@ClenioBuilder]

👏👏👏👏

[@gundanium3126]

Number 10 tip:you will not regret buying a drillbit doctor the lower end 50 dollar starting price (which is for twist bits and maybe spotting bits) is all you need and if your spending 4.50 (at hardware store) on your cobalt bit, well 10 bits cost you 45 bucks, so long as you do not burn up that bit 3 times (you can grind off the burned up part) 12 sharpenings will pay for for that drillbit doctor. I only really run 3x16 bits have around 30 cobalt drill America bits of them I bought on amazon for cheap and have not bought new ones since. i did fry my doctor because I did not empty out the shavings which then got into the motor. so drillbit doctor is a great tool to have as it saves you money.

[@glennbrown1961]

4.00 that is not the correct way to use parallels. They are stood on edge. Well thats what I was taught 50 years ago. Cheers.

[@almeyer405]

Actually that would be a drill and a drill motor!

[@darkwinter6028]

Um... one of those drills was an end mill...

[@franotoole2702]

He never used and end mill. He used a spotting drill. Unless your referring to the handfull of bits he threw down on the table?

[@darkwinter6028]

Fran o' Toole - yes, I was referring to the handful of bits on the table.