TOP 5 MODS for the Axial SCX24 - Best Upgrades for Performance Gains

[@CapeCrawlers]

Timestamps Mod 1&2: 2:26 Mod 3: 6:49 Mod 4: 9:17 Mod 5: 14:09 Course runs: 19:16 Upgraded course runs: 22:44 Bonus mods: 26:22 Conclusion: 30:13

[@FarmerFpv]

How did you make your micro crawler course? Is that made with model railroad material? I want to build one so bad in my garage. Don't know where to start. Yours looks so professional compared to what I have seen on other Channels. Hopefully, you can give us some insight into how you went about it? Thanks again, Adam.

[@FarmerFpv]

WD-40 on a paper towel will remove the sticky tape glue on the ESC easily. Won't harm the plastic. Just spray some on a paper towel and dab it on the glue so that it soaks it up. let it sit for 20 seconds then wipe it right off.

[@CapeCrawlers]

@@FarmerFpv I used a combination of spray foam insulation and plaster sheets. I’ll be doing a course expansion soon and will document it for an upcoming video.

[@CapeCrawlers]

@@FarmerFpv I will try this tonight!

[@FarmerFpv]

@@CapeCrawlers Hell yeah bro, I look forward to that. Excellent job.

[@derekeaton4021]

Great video. My only disagreement is not having the servo and metal steering links be first. Especially once you add grippier tires, the stock steering servo starts to struggle. But that's obviously just my opinion. I have loved how easy these trucks are to upgrade, and also how easy it is to just have fun with them right out of the box.

[@CapeCrawlers]

You could certainly make a strong case for the servo being first. The stock servo is so weak and really limits performance even if the rest of the truck is stock. I totally agree that the upgrades and fun factors are off the charts with these little things!

[@Stabbystew82]

i upgraded the servo but not the links and it does fine tbh

[@americantravels2233]

I am just getting into the RC world and picked up a capra 1.9 4ws but after watching this video I did some looking and the deadbolt was on sale for $99 and had to get one. I will be doing these upgrades and following your channel because of the great information you provide. Keep up the great work. Now I have a 1/10 and 1/24 scale in my toybox and feel like a little kid on Christmas. :)

[@TrevorParkJones]

Definitely some great mods to start off with! I think you came up with a good list here Adam! Thanks for taking the time to do this, and for always putting in time stamps! Another great episode of advice! Take care!!!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! It’s tricky because there is such a domino effect with these mods. With the weight, width, and wheel/tire combo, the motor is now fading. Then I think about high clearance links, then shocks, and into the vortex we go 😅

[@johnvillarreal1419]

I've been into RC hobbies for many years and I'm finally going to take the crawling plunge in large part to your videos! I have a Dead Bolt on order with all your upgrade recommendations. Thanks for all your hard work.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! Have fun!

[@Galaxy5oo]

Great video and a great list of mods. Crazy the improvement it made. A free mod that might not have been brought up yet I did was adding a little grease inside the stock shocks. It helps a lot to decrease the bounce in them. Did not take much. I did not have green slime so I just used marine grease and it worked great.

[@CapeCrawlers]

I’ll have to try this!

[@craigbruce2530]

The absolute first mod I try to tackle is the tie-rod and drag link replacement w alum or brass. It just seems to improve aesthetics and looks to the model. I don't compete w anyone but myself. There are no indoor courses near me, so I run my cars inside and outside my house. I just love the versatility of the 1/24 scale. "So many mod choices, so little money or time"

[@mr.dillpickle]

Great list! Here is how I would do it: 1/2. I'd get a set of the negative offset Stamped Steel 1.0s or those wheels with a set of 62mm Injoras, $28.99/$29.99. I like having a little more width with the SS1.0s, but the ability to add the brass rings to the other wheels is nice. 3. I'd do the servo second, and the same way you did it. Completely agree with you on getting the aluminum horn and tray. 4. Instead of the diff covers, I would do brass steering knuckles. The stock ones aren't very good and having more weight in the front is nice. 5. I'd do a motor, probably the Injora 050. Enough power to move all the parts. Bonus: 6. Shocks. Massive difference in the way the rig performs 7. Aluminum/brass steering links. Massive improvement from stock 8. Brass diff covers. An awesome mod, great way to add weight like you said. Plus, they look cool. 9. Wider axles. Portals or +8mm axles, the added width for the flex and sidehilling ability. The portals might add low weight (if they are brass), plus you will have more clearance 10. Links, probably high clearance. Can change the wheelbase for performance, and you can get more clearance. Also, if you order directly from Injora, it is a lot cheaper, plus there are some coupon codes you can use!

[@CapeCrawlers]

I should copy and paste this comment into the description, it’s perfect! And you’ve scripted a follow up video to this one for me already 😂 Great info!

[@mr.dillpickle]

@@CapeCrawlers Hahaha thanks!

[@K8Nicole]

A very informative and much needed video on these little crawlers. I just got my SCX 24 with the 69 Chevrolet body today. Thank you so much for taking the time to do these videos.

[@alfonsogtafoya2332]

I just got that one does these mods work on all scx 24?

[@jgunter1991]

Definitely think the Deadbolt is the most impressive out of the box in the SCX lineup. I’m happy I chose it for my first crawler

[@CapeCrawlers]

It works great and its amazing what it can do with just a handful of mods!

[@joshbrekke6374]

We fully agree, ordered some parts for it today. Low weight brass items. Also a steering servo & steel slip yolk drive shafts & tool kit. My special needs 11yr old loves it so far. We run over his WWE wrestlers and the like.

[@rogueart7706]

I have fallen in love with the Mud Basher tractor tires for crawling. I turn them backwards and the tread hooks the rock better than any of my other tires. And If I want to play in mud I can flip them the right way in a couple of minutes. The stock ESC is too fast and goosy. I put Iguana pro/chameleon motor in my rigs right away. It makes a nice slow powerful crawl. Great info, I love your videos with my morning coffee.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thank you! And interesting feedback on the tires. I have seen those on the shelf at my LHS but never considered them.

[@rogueart7706]

@@CapeCrawlers honestly I don’t know if the reverse tractor tire is better than the best crawler tire. My comparison is with the stock tires, (some of my stock tires have nipped knobbys for better hook action).

[@IDRAGDOORS]

Just picked up a deadbolt yesterday its heavily modified so seeing this makes me happy

[@chrisb3976]

The mini is amazing. I've been out of the RC hobby for a good minute. (Tamiya Juggernaut 2 days) and fast forwarding now and seeing the minis go with crawling and climbing they are impressive. :)

[@jessefarias1507]

Literally just bought this deadbolt because it was on sale , I’m coming from the bashing world I have a sledge and a slash 4x4 that I run , this video just helped seal the deal on my purchase. I was wondering if you have a video on the course you built and how you built it, if someone can post some links that’d be awesome thanks guys 🤘🏽

[@joshs7467]

Free mods I did: Clipped front bumper off and front of body for better approach angle, removed battery tray and set battery between frame, removed springs from shocks, removed roll cage and little helmet from body. These improved the performance greatly. I do have some Hyrax tires and wheels on the way because the traction still suffers. Also ordered a couple weights. Only had this thing a few days but it’s a lot of fun.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Great mods! For the battery, does it just fit snugly between the frame rails?

[@joshs7467]

Yes it does. I’m going to try the esc-battery position swap and see which way works out best.

[@vista8632]

Good tip on adding weight towards the front. A few other questions on weights: 1) I see online there are about a dozen places to add brass weights! Do you recommend not putting them on moving parts(I think you mentioned wheels, but also steering links? 2) Would you recommend not putting them on areas above suspension (boulder bars, brass bumper, etc?). My thinking is that it would negatively affect shock travel 3) Can you put as much weight as you want or is there a point of diminishing returns? I would think a brick on wheels would not make a good crawler 😂

[@CapeCrawlers]

I like to avoid rotating mass if possible. I still end up doing it pretty often with hex extensions though. But it's not ideal. I generally don't add weight above the steering knuckles for the exact reason you mentioned. I like it as close to the ground as possible. And yes, there is a point of diminishing returns. It's less about how much weight you add and more about how it is distributed. A 60/40 distribution with 60% being in the front is ideal. How you get there is up to you. The lighter the better I feel. I learned this with my comp build!

[@vista8632]

@@CapeCrawlers Thanks so much for your thoughts on this! Makes sense.

[@dc9808]

whoo hoo, turns out some of the parts listed I already had since they came for a fcx24 but did not fit and now that I have an scx24 I understand why... these things are tiny! And you are so right about needing a servo. Also as a bonus, it was very easy to bind to my radiomaster mt12 with the 4-in-1 nano module.

[@MIKEC2000]

Love your videos man! Great info for a newbie like me. I ordered a Basher then a TRX4M followed by 3 scx24 for the rest of the family all in 3 weeks time 😂

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! You jumped in the hobby with both feet!! Have fun 👍🏻👍🏻

[@rerunracing]

AWESOME videos idk what I would Do without them

[@bassboomboing]

Pretty much did these mods in this order, except for adding metal steering links before adding emax servo. I burnt out the stock servo with the metal links as the steering becomes much tighter. Really good to do when doing diff cover/servo/servo mount. Could you please do a video explaining overdrive and how changing the amount of teeth on the gear changes performance?? Thanks for the always excellent info and content!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Great suggestion! I realized after I published this that I didn’t explain whatsoever what overdrive gears do. I’m thinking a video on the gears and also the overdrive transmission that hot racing offers, or even stacking the two!

[@patrickcollins7045]

Thank you man!!!! As a fresh hatched egg, I truly appreciate the tips and tricks!!!!

[@Mattwiistand]

I Have a JLU i bought and upgraded now i bought a deadbolt so my mom and dad can get into rc again for the first in years. Thanks for your help with this video.

[@CapeCrawlers]

That's awesome! I love to hear stories like that. Thanks for watching!

[@edwardlove4300]

Yeah Adam, I've mostly been into trailing. I have an old WPL B1 that I'm restoring and it's not a crawler but lots of enjoyment. About two years ago I bought a Panda jeep, terrible crawler. N I'm looking at the dead bolt cause I want to get into the world of crawling. Thanks for all your advice.

[@goreyboggs]

I always coil my wires but I don’t use heat. Great Video! Hopefully get the TRX4M soon. I’m super stoked!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! I have two TRX4M's on order: a black bronco and green land rover for my boy. We cant wait!

[@chriskryder2994]

Thank you for all your information. I just bought a deadbolt my first axial but I am excited to do mods to it

[@neonnerd1364]

I watched your budget build video on the blue gladiator scx24 and now I'm about to buy my own lol.

[@donavinmoller2432]

my top five would be: motor steering links and servo wheels/tires brass diff in the front high clearence links i would recommend a lil bigger or smaller than stock tires

[@CapeCrawlers]

Good list!

[@crizo23]

Very helpful video to get me going! Minor complaint, how much work it is to install the overdrive gears was really glossed over. Remove the driveshaft, partially take out front axle and hub. Wow, probably not gonna bother with this one! 😂 Is it worth it? I didn’t really hear you explain what overdrive gears do for me.

[@davidybarra5848]

I believe my motors have left the chat, I have the C10 and Jeep wrangler, what's an upgrade to get me going again. I'll definitely be getting some of your recommended mods. Thanks!

[@Iammasterkush]

When I got mine awhile ago there wasn’t much had to do them all your selfs then got the c10 and parts were hard to come by at first now there’s so much great add ones

[@coreygrant56]

Great content Adam! Glad I waited to open our Deadbolt as this will help tremendously with our build. I love the LGRP t-shirt! It’s gotten a little chilly in the northeast so it’s the LGRP hoodie for me today as we watch 👍🏻

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! Glad it’s helpful! And you are right, sweatshirt weather has certainly arrived!

[@malcolmlester4585]

awesome as always...i would be careful keeping the rear to light as you have to watch coming down a steep slope light rear can cause it to tip over the front.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! And good point. I get so fixated on uphill climbing I almost exclusively neglect downhills!

[@martintrj5620]

I just got mine, I went a bit overboard but meh, it’s what we do, right? Thanks for your vid, very useful 👍.

[@toycoma98]

I got the injora 10g diff covers but the other design. I noticed my rear spins freely without the drive shaft, but the front didn't. I took it apart and looked at the bearing it came with. One side looked different, so i flipped it and then it spun freely. The bearings are not the same on both sides. Flip it if it binds... without drive shaft connected.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Great advice! Injora stuff is fantastic but I do run into quality control issues like that occasionally. Great info for a quick fix.

[@JIMJAMSC]

That whole segment around 20 minutes when you keep falling over is why I haven't jumped all in on the 24 scale. Also watching the numerous vids show most simply nail the throttle and rattle up even the smallest of obstacles. I dug out my old 1/18 Losi Mini Crawler and still confused why that scale didn't catch on. It big enough to not be toyish but small enough to backyard crawl.

[@CapeCrawlers]

The 1/18 scale is heating up big time! Traxxas is going to make waves with the TRX4M I believe, and axial hinted at the 1/18 scale future with the new Capra. The FMS fcx24 is also more like a 1/18, so I think we are on the verge of a big market shift to that scale.

[@JIMJAMSC]

@@CapeCrawlers Good to hear. We all love our machines and "micro" always attract us. I also own micro helis and quadcopters all which have their place but older the micros feels like working on a watch. A fine, well oiled aluminum $$ watch but my eyes/ hands need something bigger.

[@Jb-Raja]

That's exactly why I've been on the fence for a year or more. The herkey Jerky driving experience just puts me off.

[@grindoffmetal]

Nice! Id do wheels, diff covers, servo, and links. Love these little cars! I have mine fully upgraded but at some point it sucks at crawling needs alot of tinkering and tuning to really balance it out. Once done they become goats 🐐 aha

[@CapeCrawlers]

So true. Tinkering is some of the most fun with these things!

[@darrisbrown7516]

Really cool man and showing the hobby doesn't have to break the bank 👍 😀

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching!

[@leotruuut245]

Do the overdrive gears reduce the power given to the tires because their‘re faster? Very good video!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Potentially, but at this ratio I haven't noticed any detriment. Any higher though and the drivetrain starts to conflict with itself I find.

[@leotruuut245]

@@CapeCrawlers Ok thanks, I think I‘ll order them then

[@modelcarjedi]

Good stuff! I’m late to the party with this cool little trucks.

[@c.v.poepke2202]

Just have to deal with the steering not being center no matter how you index the servo arm. No trim on the remote

[@DirtydogMech]

Can you explain more about the gears on how it helps improve the drivaibilty? Does it make crawl slower?

[@spacecityshooter5797]

Makes the axle you put the overdrive gears into spin faster than the other. It's beneficial in the front diff because it will help to "pull" your rig up as you're crawling.

[@AddictRC]

wait $230? for the whole thing thats awesome price to perform you crushed it once i get a scx24 im doing this thank you

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! The deadbolt responds so well to upgrades it’s crazy.

[@AddictRC]

it looks like it does

[@jarridbest6295]

Awesome! I’ve just found the channel. I’m on Cape too!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Awesome! We're in Hyannis, just down the road from Centerline hobbies (dangerous for us)

[@deanweller5789]

Great Video you just saved me hours of searching around lol, Love the wire trick with the lighter, One idea i think you might like is a cheap wireless dermal for sanding, makes its so nice hahaha

[@CapeCrawlers]

Glad it helped! I sooooo need a dremel!

[@michaeldorich4485]

I just found this video. Sorry, I am late to the party. I have a stock SCX24 with the Wrangler body. I thought the difference the changes you made were very impressive. It was a night and day difference. Also, the fact that you used a lot of Amazon sourced parts saves money. I don't know much about crawling. I had a question. What is the reason you did not use any foams in the tires? Thanks for sharing.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! I find the foams that comes in most of the tires to be too stiff. Taking them out let’s the tire be more flexible and conform to obstacles better so they can grip harder

[@michaeldorich4485]

@@CapeCrawlers Thank you.

[@michaeldorich4485]

Ii have an additional question. I know little or nothing about this crawler. I bought one a few months ago.When you say overdrive gears, where are those installed? Thank you.

[@vista8632]

Thank you for the channel! I'm new to SCX24 crawling and enjoy your objective approach to evaluating upgrades. I just got the green Deadbolt. For the OD gear, I noticed you used the 13T. I think I'd want to avoid stress on the motor - would you recommend the 14T? or is 13T the best compromise between less motor stress and a real improvement in climbing? Also, what grease do you use in your diffs? Thanks!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! I personally have not tried the 14t. I did some research and watched some content on it and it just didnt seem like it made any noticeable difference, so I made the jump to the 23%. I will say that my comp build continues to feel underpowered regardless of what motor I use and I am wondering it it's the 23% OD that's causing it. Injora sells a 2-pack kit where you can get a 13t and a 14t for very little money. Maybe try that and give them both a shot?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Oh, and I use Traxxas silicon grease.

[@ivanluhi]

Nice guide! At the same price, is there a reason you would chose an analog servo instead of a digital one (on Injora's site)?

[@richthebass]

Hi, I really appreciate your videos and information. I’ve learned a lot from you and others and enjoy your content. I have a question. I purchased the Furitek Cayman Pro, have made a few mods, and loving it! The front drive shaft bound up and popped off. I want to upgrade to steel drive shafts but don’t know what to order. Could you please recommend any? Thank you 🙏🏾

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! Furitek sells replacement driveshaft kits: www.amainhobbies.com/furitek-cayman-standard-plastic-driveshaft-2-ftk-fur-2232/p1453704

[@myrandediroff5408]

Hey what good cheap esc would you recommend one that won't fail and that's not to expensive but I will definitely be doing these mo d's great vid thanks!

[@specialkm909]

Awesome stuff man!! Love your videos 🤙🏻 do you happen to have a link for the pack of wire extensions by any chance? Need them for my C10 build 😎

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thank you! Here is the link to the wire extensions: a.co/d/bfN5HJ8

[@specialkm909]

Thank you very much sir!

[@Lorddarthvader1701]

Since it's been a while, have you changed your mind on the shocks, I am thinking about doing the ATV body conversion and I was wondering about the shocks.

[@GeezerGramps]

I shorten the wire on my Emax servos by opening then up unsolder the wires, cut the wire & resolver.

[@CapeCrawlers]

I wish they came with the setup like the EcoPower's. They have short wires by default but include an extender!

[@Muzzleblast-1911]

Love watching your scx24 vids! Are there more than one frequency on these radios? Are they selectable, so you can run two or three scx24s at the same time?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! For the radios, not that I know of. With the stock radios you’re limited to one model at a time I believe

[@crizo23]

I added the same parts you recommend (tires and brass wheel extended hubs) and the wheels keep falling off. Do you have the stock axle? If I tighten them too much I can feel binding/ resistance. Thanks

[@chrisdowling1585]

Can you explain what the overdrive gears do for performance please.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Sure! Overdrive means they turn faster than stock. By over driving the front, you make the front wheels spin faster, which means they’re grabbing harder for traction than the rear. This translates into improved climbing and crawling. Does that make sense?

[@chrisdowling1585]

@@CapeCrawlers oh wow so only the front was changed. I just assumed you would have done both. That's at really good explanation, thanks mate. I'm planning on buying one in the coming weeks so watching lots of vids to learn about the 1/24 crawlers. I've also just subscribed to your channel, watching your stuff while on my bicycle trainer. Thanks again 💪💪

[@shaneworden1325]

Great video! I getting ready to get one to keep my Losi mini t 2.0 company. What was the benefit of the front gears? And shouldn't the front gears match the rear? Thanks.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thank you! Overdriving the front and making the front tires spin faster helps with sharper steering and climbing. The front wheels are spinning faster and grabbing harder for traction. It makes a big difference!

[@FarmerFpv]

You read our minds. The Micro Goat!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Micro goat LOL

[@FarmerFpv]

@@CapeCrawlers Yup, you're the Micro Goat, lol.

[@crizo23]

Warning on those hex extensions. If you try to snug up your wheels at all the inside lip collar will rub against parts in your hub and cause serious binding. I was either dealing with wheels falling off or binding, no happy medium. Watching the bonus tip at the end this video shows what you need to do: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fou7fZiJoLerfKcsi=BFCkLIhvBVxamw2r Those hex extensions just aren’t worth the effort IMO

[@sc4rles]

Another great video Adam!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks!

[@rlj3955]

Thank you for your help, great tutorial videos👍🏻 I need to buy in amazon screwdrivers, what kit do you think is better for scx24? Than you again👍🏻😍

[@CapeCrawlers]

This OGRC kit is a great start for the scx24: amzn.to/44FYPLS

[@rlj3955]

@@CapeCrawlers thank you very much ❤️

[@mzondi1970]

Can you put up a video on installing beatbox and tires

[@cullenschwagler1775]

Awesome video! Crazy how much of a difference just a few mods can do to really plant these things to the ground and look more fluid doing so. I've been out of the rc world for many years. My last rc truck was a Team Losi xxnt nitro stadium truck although it was fun, too much upkeep for me and me being a lot younger at the time, I didn't know what I was doing as in terms of upkeep/maintenance. These look like a ton of fun. I plan on picking up the c10 pickup soon and had a question regarding the hex extensions. I plan on doing all the same mods as shown in the video, but are those hex extensions needed for the wheel/tire combo, or can I run without them? I understand it'll widen the track width as well, but wondering if those are needed or not. Thanks for any input.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! The hex extensions are certainly not needed. Brass knuckles and non-rotational weight is actually a better option. The width is nice because it makes the rig more stable, but the c10 is pretty low and not top heavy like some of the others.

[@cullenschwagler1775]

@Cape Crawlers ok sweet 👍 thanks for clarifying. I'm amazed at how inexpensive these little rigs are to modify. Seems like theirs an endless number of options when it comes to customizing and to play around with different setups. I can't wait to dive back into the hobby soon. Thanks again!

[@jerryhermann7233]

I hate the deadbolt body BUT ny brother has one and it does work good. My eyesight is getting worse so i dont see me getting one or any other. I got out of 1/24 but back in with a xc-1. Dropped way too much into it. Picking it up tomorrow. Beware of installing a komoto brushless system in it. Gotta carv it up to get it in. I hope it was worth it.

[@CapeCrawlers]

I'm not a big fan of the deadbolt body either. It's an easy swap to a Betty or Cliffhanger body though! I got the mini Komodo in my AX24 and it fit pretty well, although it does rub on the front driveshaft.

[@jordanhart9708]

I've actually been looking into this just to have a bit of fun with, but I'm curious as to thoughts on an overdrive transmission vs the way you did it. What are the pros and cons?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Pros for the transmission are ease of assembly (straight bolt on, no disassembling axles) and the ability to quickly swap it out if need be. Cons are price ($50 vs $10) and limitations on ratio (14% only I believe). With the worm gear/screw combo you can do up to 33% OD. You could buy three different sets of gears in different ratios to try out and still be under the cost of the transmission.

[@cmkpikes]

I see that the emax servos come in a digital and analog version. Can you tell me what the difference is and which one I should get? Also the servo mounting tray you said something about a four link suspension I think that is an upgrade? So will that servo tray work with the stock links and then just be ready for the upgrade later if wanted?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Digital servos send pulses (power) ~6x faster than analog. More pulses translates into smoother operation and more constant torque. I have both digital and analog on my rigs and I honestly cannot tell the difference between the two. The four link is an additional upgrade. It replaces the stock Y-link with two separate links that attach to the outside of the traditional linkage mount. Yes, this servo tray will work with stock and aftermarket links.

[@bgblindt]

Great Video. Good info here.

[@WerejustRCCrawling]

hi how do you get the injora stickers all the parts i have brought had none

[@jgunter1991]

Do you think the hex extensions will work with most wheels? I’m getting some injora beadlock wheels for my SCX

[@CapeCrawlers]

Yes. I've had good luck with them. ~90% of the wheels I've tried worked without issue.

[@bjornsrc3843]

Hey, first thanks for your great videos. Honestly I did my deadbolt modification before I watched this video here. I did some more upgrades, but this is not my intention to talk about.that now. I just found one problem for me that I would like to know if you have the same experience. The deadbolt comes with the „old“ ESC in black. I also do own the Bronco and the Gladiator. Both have the new ESC that is much more smooth to drive. Do you know an replacement ESC from aftermarket that runs better than the old black box. Compared similar with the new blue ESC or even better?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! There are a few options. Flysky is a popular option and fairly inexpensive. With the V1 electronics on the deadbolt you can also add a furitek lizard pro with Bluetooth. That gives you access to the FuriCar app where you can tune the throttle curve to your liking. Even out of the box it’s very smooth, and that’s are $80.

[@wheelbarrow2803]

Did you have any issues with the wheel hub extension weights binding on the rear axle bearing retaining screws? I have read where some people have had issues using some hub weights on the C10 and them binding on the retaining screws. "Add a decent amount of weight but they do NOT work on the c10 if you have screws in the end of the rear axle tubes like the c10 or deadbolt do, they wont work. Tightens down and binds on them. Either gonna have to dremmal out the back to make room or find a different set"

[@CapeCrawlers]

I’ve had some that rub but don’t bind. These hex extensions in this video are an example of that. They rub in the back but not enough to catch. If I were to take them off and show you the back, you’d see a circle worn into the back of the brass extension from the axle nuts. So I can easily see how some of them can bind, but I’ve not directly experienced this myself.

[@anthonymiller8979]

Did you add/do you suggest weights inside the wheels too or are the extensions enough?

[@CapeCrawlers]

I like to avoid rotational mass in the tires so I usually stick with just the hexes and fixed parts up front.

[@Friskee62]

All I see for the tires is...that they are mounted, not just the tires themselves. Where did you you find the tires alone? Thanx...

[@CapeCrawlers]

Proline only sells them mounted on the plastic wheels unfortunately. I scrapped those pretty quick and mounted them up on some aluminum’s

[@chriskryder2994]

Looking to buy appropriate tools to work on my deadbolt and any screw kits or your recommendations on the essentials thank you

[@CapeCrawlers]

Injora makes a great tool kit and hardware kit: amzn.to/43sksNQ

[@brentlykins7281]

Great info and thanks for sharing

[@CapeCrawlers]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@RCCrawlerz209]

I can't help but ask (feel like I asked this before, so forgive me...lol), the rear shocks on your 24 Gladiator, did you have to drill out extra holes, or did the rear shocks (48mm or 54mm) reach to stock holes?

[@CapeCrawlers]

They were able to reach. I use flex extensions to sit the shocks back even further in the rear. Even then I didnt have any issues with fitment.

[@RCCrawlerz209]

@@CapeCrawlers Cool, cool! 🤟🏻

[@andrewholzschuster427]

Hey Adam, I love the deadbolt but I have an fcx24, could you do a comparison of the size because I can mount it!! ❤❤

[@CapeCrawlers]

I can do that. I will say that Furitek makes the grasshopper chassis for the FCX that accepts SCX24 bodies.

[@adameightyeight718]

Placing o-rings where the steering links connect takes the slop out of the stock steering.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Great tip!

[@maxernst156]

Maybe I just missed it, but what size and kind of tire is that on the rc4wd stamped steel bead lock wheel?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Those are LGRP swamp king tires. They're ~64mm tall. Big tires and my favorite at the moment!

[@jamescasper9581]

Thanks for the video man

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching!

[@rerunracing]

Just a heads up some of these mods dont work on the C10. Specifically the Hex extensions. Out 20 bucks kinds sucks

[@CapeCrawlers]

Did you get body rub with the extensions and that's why they wont work?

[@jamesmcnamara7484]

I must have watched this video 10 times now.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching!!

[@kcpyrotechnics]

How tall are the boxes you used for the highest point of your chute/Escalator/Hell's Gate?

[@CapeCrawlers]

The box was ~26" I believe. The top of the tower section where the chute and other trails converge is ~28".

[@fiend9514]

I installed everything from the vid but I have a ? about the hub extensions… HOW DO I KEEP THEM FROM LOOSENING UP AND FALLING OFF??? I install them and then after a bit of wheeling the brass bolt ends up backing out. The hub is seated properly and I have noticed online other kits come with washers but I didn’t see that yours did. Any recommendations??

[@CapeCrawlers]

Some blue loctite should solve your issues. I have to use this on a number of my builds and it works great.

[@skookumyeah1860]

Question to all.... How can make my rig crawl super slow and eliminate ESC jump?

[@CapeCrawlers]

A new upgraded motor can help. You could underdrive it too to get more slow speed. Otherwise you could overhaul the esc and use and aftermarket setup

[@huhiking8522]

How well do you think the aftermarket will be for the new TRX4M?

[@CapeCrawlers]

I think it will be epic and I’m super excited to dive into it!

[@FarmerFpv]

Anything Traxxas will have insane aftermarket support. lol

[@wiattrichards4241]

What is your course made out of?

[@wizard5637]

What's your charger of choice? I know I saw you answer that question with a link somewhere but I can't remember

[@CapeCrawlers]

I like the eco power: www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-electron-li32-ac-lipo-balance-battery-charger-23s-2a-25w-ecp-1004/p698674?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-6Qvdbv-gIVkIjICh1jzwEMEAQYASABEgK1i_D_BwE

[@wizard5637]

@@CapeCrawlers thanks! I just ordered one. The little USB charger that comes with the Deadbolt doesn't seem to be working all that well with initial charging. How long does it take to fully charge the new battery with the supplied charger?

[@CrawlDaddyRc]

🔥🔥🔥couldn’t agree more!

[@CapeCrawlers]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@sailbc]

Does anyone have a link for those light extension cables? I've looked around but can't find the right ends.

[@CapeCrawlers]

This is what I use: a.co/d/arov14O

[@Dominator-kz3uy]

Lol my friend has 6 or 7 if these for his track, so fun

[@CapeCrawlers]

They are a blast!

[@adamcookson168]

How do you screw the injora servo horn onto the stock steering linkage?

[@CapeCrawlers]

You should be able to thread the stock linkage into the back of the horn. I will usually mount the steering linkage to the horn first and then mount the horn onto the servo.

[@adamcookson168]

Seems like a slightly different thread, guess I’ll have to buy the full steering linkage🤣🤣

[@ericfaley9019]

Did you do just the front overdrive or did you do rear also?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Just the front. The advantages of doing the front are a tighter turning radius (slightly) and improved climbing.

[@kieron9845]

what size screwdriver do I need to start modify my SCX24. I'm brand new to this

[@CapeCrawlers]

You’ll want a 1.3mm and 1.5mm hex driver. Invest in a good set of those and you can do nearly anything as far as modifications. You’ll want a wheel nut wrench too. Little guy racing parts and/or Injora both sell good tool kits.

[@kieron9845]

@@CapeCrawlers brilliant thank you

[@2WheelsdownN]

Ditch diff cover get full axles

[@InfiniteCraftsman]

#1 starts at @2:30

[@nedprouse1804]

Which wire extensions do I order for the relocation

[@CapeCrawlers]

Something like this: amzn.to/42DlWFx

[@kevindiss6020]

Can you fit other body’s on the deadbolt chassis

[@CapeCrawlers]

I think you can fit a Betty body on it. That may be it, possibly the gladiator but I am not positive.

[@805crawlers]

What upgrades should i do for a ultra24 rig?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thats a tough one because they are really specialized. But you have options when it comes to shocks, axles, and motor. A nice, metal axle would be good, and something with some width. Injora wide axles or the LGRP super 8's are nice. I don't know how that chassis behaves, so its tough to give recommendations on the shocks. I would imagine a 43mm shock would be good.

[@805crawlers]

Thanks

[@kahanaboi]

Do u have od gears in the front diff only?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Yes. I want the front to spin faster to assist with climbing.

[@docholiday9786]

Do you crawl in 1st or 2nd gear

[@CapeCrawlers]

It’s a single speed, so only choice was 1st