Top 6 Super Splitters of Indian Creek

[@WideBoyz]

Which is your favourite looking route? These are some of the best lines from our recent trip to the moab area (Indian Creek and the North Wash.) There are more in depth videos to come from the area on routes such as No Way Jose, Supreme Manliness, Frank Zappa and Ruby's Cafe. Check out our Wide Boyz Shop here www.wideboyz.com and our full trip ticklist (5.13 and above) below: Tom (3 weeks) @tompaulrandall: Tricks Are For Kids, 13c No Way Jose, 13c Zebra's and Moonbeams, 13- Ruby's cafe, 13- Sacred cow, 13- OS Pete (5 weeks) @petewhittaker01: Fraid line, 13a Surfs on, 13a Final Eviction, 13a/b Frank zappa, 13+ Blood Pulse, 13- OS Death of a cowboy, 13- Ruby's cafe, 13- F Sacred cow, 13- F Half man, half shark alligator, 13- The Queen, 13- OS No way Jose, 13c Desert finger bone, 13- Wapiti, 13- F Zebras and moonbeams, 13- F Montana weed connection, 13 Fairy Tales, 13- OS Pats blue ribbon, 13- OS Optimator, 13 Flavour Blasted, 13- F Winner takes all, 13- OS Supreme manliness, 13- F Mari (5 weeks), @mariaugustahs: Belly Full of Bad Berries, 13- F kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHa0XmdslrV8fMk Price of Evil, 13 Wapiti, 13- F Pat's Blue Ribbon, 13- Ruby's Cafe, 13- Mary (3 weeks), @tradprincess Tricks are for Kids, 13c Sacred Cow, 13- F

[@miguelberkopec2129]

No Way Jose is my absolute dream line, my uncle put it up, I just have to learn how to climb finger cracks first lmao

[@zacharyst0ne]

Did you have a chance to try "The Kokanee Corner" (13+)? Beautiful climbs in any case.

[@derekatwood6236]

Now there's a very quick and easy way to categorize old and new wideboyz videos. BC (before chip) and AC (after chip) 😂 looks good on you Pete!

[@WideBoyz]

😂👍

[@ninjabob2456]

AD for After Dentistry?

[@hellsangel2005]

Always a pleasure to watch Tom and Pete together

[@ryonmerrick3112]

Did my first proper outdoor crack boulder today, just a simple V1 but boy HOWDY it felt great. Thanks Pete and Tom, y'all are an inspiration!

[@WideBoyz]

Fantastic 💪

[@melancholiaenshrinesalltriumph]

pete is so dedicated to cracks that he even has one on his teeth

[@beatagraczer1897]

Really good to see that Tom is back in the Wide Boyz videos!

[@sjajsjsj8665]

i found this channel from the videos that about parkour and tobey and ive been watching you guys, this channel is awesome

[@WideBoyz]

Thanks 😀

[@lukemehall6896]

Great climbing with y'all, and shout out to Dave Marcinowski, who did the first free ascent of the second pitch of The Queen, plus he's the only person to send the link up of pitches 1 + 2.

[@tawfiqmorshed2694]

This video feels very informative and focused! Not one I think I’d show a non-climbing friend for their first piece of climbing media but I very much enjoyed this more climbing-heavy video!

[@plowestv]

Great to see Tom back on the rock. Thought he might be locked in the cellar!? :-) This looks like an amazing location and for you crack climbers an absolute dream playground. Glad you enjoyed it and nailed so many routes

[@dr2165]

The production quality on this video is amazing awsome stuff guys.

[@perzoorgasmatron4914]

Finally u dropped the video. Was thinking of you today :). There was a finger crag at the WC Seoul in the final 😂🔥

[@WideBoyz]

We have 4 more videos coming from the area.this isn't the only one. We're just warming you into it 😉

[@perzoorgasmatron4914]

@@WideBoyz Love it! Cant wait. My fav so far are the Queen and the Joe...they look savage 🔥🔥🔥💪

[@BigShelley]

Wait... there was? Men or women? How did I miss it?

[@perzoorgasmatron4914]

@@BigShelley Tinny black one. Boulder 3 or 4 men

[@MI-gu8lq]

What happened to Pete's tooth? If you don't mind my asking - hope he's ok!

[@Route_2_V11]

Yes, we need the story of the chipped tooth if its a good one!

[@WideBoyz]

chipped it many years ago. then I was trying really hard on a route in Indian Creek and bit out the glue on bit, haha dentist appointments are slow, I'm getting it fixed soon :)

[@marcbecker1431]

@@WideBoyz What a delightful reason to have "rebroken" a tooth. Trying too hard. :-)

[@richardbradley1532]

"Power lay back" sounds like cheating 🤣

[@erik35534]

@@WideBoyz Dentist here. If you can make it to Provo Utah I'll fix that tooth for you

[@TheMurphQuake]

I barely understood a word they said but that it is incredible climbing. Well done boyz

[@Yakushii]

5:35 - The fact that this crack even exists, blows my mind. Imagine the natural physics involved in making such a crack appear, but without the thing becoming even wider, or even crumbling. One of nature's little finesses.

[@WideBoyz]

Yeh The Queen is very impressive. I think in my top 3 from the trip

[@andypughtube]

And I guess it isn't just superficial, but goes deep, deep into the rock.

[@jlehm]

@@andypughtube are you insinuating that the Queen has a very deep crack?

[@mtnrgr275]

Love your videos! In the cellar or out in the wilds, they're all good and an inspiration to this middle aged trad dad. Glad your trip to the US was a success, (sorry you hit eldo in during the only snow in a month).

[@WideBoyz]

Eldo was great actually, we had some brilliant days up at Rincon wall 😀 that crag is amazing!

[@tylerhampton8307]

I love watching you guys climb in Indian Creek and other great sandstone areas in Utah. I hope you'll be able to come back next year. If you also did an event, or even a type of meet and great with merch in Salt Lake I for one would show up with cash to support you and get everything signed.

[@dan27music]

I find it amazing, particularly in some clips where the climber stays up but doesn't really seem to be holding on to anything substantial.

[@TheRedWon]

Unreal footage! Can't wait to go to the Creek one day.

[@jackungerer1702]

Indian creek looks so mega!

[@ryancampbell9803]

That place looks amazing. Good effort chaps

[@manuelc5592]

Just got home from Reel Rock 16. I was so psyched about your motorway roofclimb, it didn't disappoint! Good effort guys!

[@WideBoyz]

great glad you enjoyed it

[@danwallis1984]

Wow that Queen route looked fantastic. So clean but looks so HARD. Well done guys, some great try hard efforts.

[@WideBoyz]

That thing was amazing!

[@jofitness9373]

You guys are insanely skilled.

[@travislayes6024]

Dumb and Dumber movie quote by Jim Carrey, "But I'm going to go with my instinct on this one". Don't worry Pete, my teeth are so gapped, you could do a proper hand jam in them. HAHAHA! Utah love!

[@rc5981]

bucket list trip

[@EvanWisheropp]

Marvelous! Someday I'll finally learn to not hate .75s!

[@tylerveatch6927]

I live about an hour and a half from Indian Creek so imagine how excited I was to find out my favorite climbing team was filming there. Thanks for the awesome content!

[@species5022]

Lovely vid Pete! Thanks!

[@The.Real.Indiana]

I love all your videos, fam, but these kinds are my favorite. Also, i have the same thing with my tooth! Chipped many years ago skateboarding and the glue wore down and it popped out again a couple years ago. Rocked the hillbilly look for a while 🤣

[@Tobsen660]

So great, I'm just back home from working a, for me hard , 28m finger/small hands/ringlock crack. My Finger and forearms still hurt. Now watching these ridiculous cracks you pulled there was amazing. Good job!

[@WideBoyz]

Good luck with the project 😎

[@Tobsen660]

@@WideBoyz thanks!

[@andrewgilbertson5356]

Absolutely amazing 👏

[@FlatOutFE]

Awesome video. Great climbing.

[@rschreck876]

Honnold has a great video of him climbing no way Jose.

[@Wish4Fish]

Awesome!

[@LoveAndClimbing]

Me with my tiny fingers: maybe Ruby's Cafe will be my first 5:13-! I've still got a long ways to go for that, but tips for most people are finger locks for me. Your perfect hand jams are my off-hands though, so I don't want to hear any complaining.

[@EthanJahnz]

4:32 Luke put that route up. he shimmied up a flat bare wall and chiseled the splitter himself!!

[@aj9436]

It was good to see Tom try so hard…. Usually he’s Mr Cucumber 😎

[@WideBoyz]

Mari got the best seat when she filmed him at the top of No Way Jose 😅 classic pumpy finalle

[@cossaertom]

Realy Love all your video's, but don't claim to know what will blow my mind.

[@mohammadlevy9668]

I sort of hope you guys got on Carbondale Shortbus. Either way, pretty damn inspirational!

[@WideBoyz]

I did about 5 days before the end of the trip, then it rained and the inside of the crack got wet and didn't dry properly cos it's in the shade all day. It'll have to wait until another time

[@sp10sn]

I would love a video of your expedition setup whether van, tent, RV, or wherever. What gear, etc.

[@WideBoyz]

Nothing special. The setup is a stove out the back of a very sandy car, and a tent 😀 Tom's tent collapsing in the wind a couple of times 😂

[@danielwesterlund1905]

Half Man, Half Shark Alligator is a reference to the song "Halfsharkalligatorhalfman" by Kool Keith as Dr. Octagon.

[@duncanpope2899]

my mind is blown

[@Soccercrazyfanatic22]

At some point, I would love to see a video about how you film the climbing. I’m especially curious about how the camera people get to the anchor to film from above!

[@WideBoyz]

On things like Ruby's cafe Tom warmed up on the route by doing all the sections individually and then pulled a seperate rope up. I then jumared the rope and filmed from the top. On things like the Queen, I onsighted it, so when I got to the anchor i pulled up a second rope,Mary jumared up, then I reclimbed the sections for film. When I filmed Mari on Belly Full of Bad Berries (seperate video), I aided the route and then filmed her first go. There are lots of different ways 🙂

[@Soccercrazyfanatic22]

Ah thanks for the reply! That all makes sense. Yah I figured you weren’t always just having someone climb the route beforehand, especially on the super hard routes.

[@carolinedegroot5604]

Always such fun, inspiring content!! Thanks a lot Tom and Pete! Would love to hear your opinion on what shoes work well for the different sizes of crack. Wondering what shoes you were wearing for rand smearing? Haven't found any content that discusses this online :o Personally I find that some shoes, like TC pros, are a bit big, and I'm looking for beta to send my own (tips, finger and paddle - sized) desert projects :)

[@WideBoyz]

Here you go 👍 kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5PbaXqiYrt7rJI

[@joeyisamazing1091]

I’ve only been climbing for a few months and never had an opportunity to try crack but I don’t understand how you don’t constantly break/dislocate your fingers, specially if your foot slipped and you fall

[@iedison3839]

After a trip to the Creek how have you found the paddle technique working out? There was a lot of talk in the video about the good 'ol ring-lock. Interested to hear your perspective as that's one of the biggest things from the WideBoys youtube era. I've found for me a ring-lock with the high hand and a paddle with the low hand works pretty well, especially if the crack is offset. It may also be the case that paddling works better for roofs where as ring-locks are better for vert (makes sense to me because the lock uses gravity to make it more passive but you can't do that in a roof--likewise since paddles are much more active and pumpy, paddling your way up a 40m crack sounds downright miserable) Also, I hope to god there is a video of Mari on Price of Evil, that is a legendary ascent! Also, also, I believe the original name is Half Shark-Alligator Half Man after a 90's hip-hop record. It was listed incorrectly on MP until recently...can't remember what it's called in the Kelley book. Also, also, also, Ruby's is pretty much consensus 12+ and is regarded as originally being over-graded b/c of it's 'sporty' finish which is outside regular Creek style. Still an absolute classic line with tons of history and deserves all the praise it gets

[@WideBoyz]

The paddle is a game changer. Like you say when the crack is offset then very useful for the bottom hand and then ring lock top hand. I know Tom used it on Master Blaster as well whereas everyone else who has done it has ring locked it. I guess everything has it's place and it doesn't work for all sizes of course (only bigger ring locks, and offsets). I also used a few paddles through the greens section on optimator as well (although mainly ringlocking) There is only shakey belay footage of mari on Price of Evil, not anything decent. But yes it's one of the most impressive offwidth ascents for sure. It only took her 4 sessions, which is quick. In the creek guide, I think the 'half man' name is the incorrect way round, compared to what you are saying, so good knowledge there. Haha yeh Ruby's is always being debated, I've just taken all grades/names/etc from the guidebook to keep it all consistent and from one source. Great little route though Hope you enojyed the vid :)

[@trevorsmi]

It looks like there is a large cat shadow at 5:26 at the base

[@Flumphinator]

This is cool and relatable because I climbed a flight of stairs today.

[@M0dElite]

Great stuff. Congratz for all the sends! I'm looking forward to the more in detail videos of the routes. Why does the route Queen end in the middle of the wall? The crack seems to continue pretty much the same past the anchor

[@WideBoyz]

Luke and Dave who established The Queen are working on the next pitch

[@samweiss3248]

Any plans to check out some of the crack/trad classics on the east coast?

[@WideBoyz]

Unfortunately not anytime soon, sorry. We're already back in the UK

[@Tac0caT0]

Half man half sharkalligator is a reference to a Dr. Octagon song😂

[@loveroos627]

When Tom says "do the little thingaling ting-thing", does he mean the Trout Tickler?

[@rooomulus]

9:28 holy shit I thought he's in a roof with his back facing the ground for that entire cut, and just couldn't believe he hung on that corner. But then he fell "sideways" in the second cut...

[@WideBoyz]

haha defo not a roof. weird a few people have seen it in that perspective though

[@DekarNL]

That bolt on the arret looks a little rusty. When do you stop trusting bolts because of their condition?

[@WideBoyz]

you have to make that judgement, but usually its pretty obvious. and if they are stainless steel bolts, they take many many years to get bad. it's usually bolts and pegs by the sea that ou have to take extra care of.

[@dealwithit7515]

do you guys only use wild country friends? zeroes for micro sizes etc?

[@Coleginter]

LOL "clip the anchor"

[@rubin_farr9799]

Love it! (but needs more Mari)

[@gwizzlefuhshizzle]

How did Pete chip a tooth

[@drewwatson2617]

I'm curious, have you guys done any canyoneering in the North Wash? They have some really fun slot canyons that you guys should check out

[@WideBoyz]

Never done canyoneering. Always just climbing out there

[@drewwatson2617]

@@WideBoyz highly recommend!

[@z1522]

Ha, Steve Hong, now retired Dermatologist, over 150 FFA in the greater Utah environs, back to the 80's. Son Matty's okay, too, a foot taller.

[@JasonOgasian]

This must have been the reward for having sent the bridge crack ;)

[@WideBoyz]

certianly not as grimey

[@ryanevius]

Cool Utah splitters, but did you find the hand jams on Empath though? :-)

[@WideBoyz]

We never Went there.another trip

[@kyukyu5982]

I'm convinced that if aliens visited our planet, rock climbers should be our ambassadors! Haha. There is something about all the skill, thought, innovation and hard work that it's taken to get people up these walls and mountains that sums up I think so many of the best parts of our species. I know nobody is perfect and everyone struggles with their own demons but when I see some truly epic climbing I can't help but feel I'm witnessing really pure forms of humanity! Thanks for all the inspiration to keep working hard and holding myself to the 🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@PAYNEKILLER..]

They always pop their climbing shoes of after minutes when training, how does it feel to wear them for hours on a route? I imagine their feet must hurt pretty bad.

[@sobachiyhvostik]

what happened to pete's tooth?

[@tristanmayfield4851]

Not gonna lie, I was hoping Carbondale Short Bus would be here, but the rest are good too ;)

[@WideBoyz]

I had a session on it few days before leaving, then a storm passed through and the inside of the crack didn't dry up properly quickly enough to give it a lead go, as it stays in the shade all day

[@Cabentung]

Looks funny

[@MeeloOrg]

Layback in a crack is essentially a dab 😝

[@brendanhall5924]

what is a rand smear?

[@WideBoyz]

Using the rand of the shoe (the rubber part above the sole), and smearing it against an offset of a crack/corner

[@Hennessey.matt2]

How come on No Way Jose you guys were wearing up-moccs in you left and another shoe on the right?

[@WideBoyz]

Toeing into the crack with the left needs soft and supple shoe. Then specific dimples for the right foot on the wall needs an edging shoe

[@paulheimweh]

Wow..thanks for the inspiration. Some routes look so endless long. Is there an 80 meter rope enough? And how many friends do you need of each size to be able to climb there?

[@WideBoyz]

On some routes an 80m only gets you to the top. You need two tie two ropes together to get down. I'll think Tom used 10-12 green friends on tricks are for kids,plus a load of purples and greys

[@paulheimweh]

@@WideBoyz alright. thanx!

[@lolmatthoffman]

Sacred cow is 12+ and Tricks is 13 even, no C unless you do the extension.

[@bazwax77]

“Like a couple o’ pigs in shit” 👏🏻🔥🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿❤️

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

Was Tom chewing gum on Ruby's Cafe?

[@smuir6104]

Literally Utah has more cracks than anyone could ever climb in a lifetime.

[@pedroaragao5977]

Pete broke the teeth?

[@Friendfox]

Wild country sponsoring a video where friend 5's & 6's are used but still not producing them 😭😭😭 Great shots

[@tylerjbellows]

Pete should grow a bushy mustache so we can take him more seriously.

[@WideBoyz]

The day I can grow a bushy beard/mustache will be the day 5.15d gets onsighted...we're a long way off 😂

[@Hellenen]

❤️

[@Balgore8]

This makes me never want to try crack climbing. Looks so painful, brutal, and dangerous for finger injuries

[@WideBoyz]

it's all in the technique

[@thesmileycrew100]

Hope Petes tooth's doing okay

[@WideBoyz]

getting it fixed soon :)

[@kellybrown8747]

Pete what happened to your tooth?

[@carlosvalle89]

Pete, what happened to your tooth? :D

[@yognaught1000]

Great vid, but god damn I hate clickbait titles (the reason why I have blocked climbers crag lol)

[@WideBoyz]

Yeh I realised that when I'd left it out for a bit... Changed it since :)

[@yognaught1000]

@@WideBoyz Niiice they truly are Magic! When you boys gonna get back up to Squamish?! There are a couple mega crack projects that need FAs....

[@dilligafwoftam985]

Doesn't that chalk look ugly all over the wall? You may as well put in bolts for pro, it couldn't look worse.

[@WideBoyz]

can of worms.....opened

[@dilligafwoftam985]

@@WideBoyz Glad I can be of assistance. (Old Aussie trad climber) 🤓🇦🇺

[@dilligafwoftam985]

@@WideBoyz You see the nicest climbing for me is using not only rock technique but route finding and hand sequences. Chalk, and to a lesser degree bolts, removes those skills. It becomes 'paint by numbers' with the handholds already coloured in.

[@Ih8myM8s]

Title: Insert stupid yo mama joke

[@trevorratchford3768]

almost didn't watch this because the title is so offensive. good video though.

[@WideBoyz]

😅 looking back you're right. I've actually changed it now. Glad you enjoyed the video 🙂

[@skip1860]

Have you guys climbed meltdown in Yosemite ?

[@ajc1080]

Is 'power layback' code for cheating? LOL 🖤 You fellas, I've been chillin in SouthEast Utah (live in California) for the last week; hiking to native ruins and scoping sick canyons. Nifty coincidence that y'all are in out here as well. Keep jammin!!!

[@WideBoyz]

😂 it's not legit, that's for sure!