TOPBULL 2000W PURE SINE WAVE INVERTER REVIEW | A+ OPTION FOR 12V DC SYSTEMS | RV, TRAVEL TRAILER +

[@MR_Garage]

You can buy this really nice, affordable inverter here. amzn.to/3UgMCdd My advise is to please SKIP the included cables and do not plan to use them. They will hold this inverter back from its full potential. Topbull would be better off just not including any cables in the box. Get yourself quality 2awg pure copper or larger to feed this beast! I used 2/0 in my testing as that is how I built my test bed. My build with this inverter uses 2awg (at 1' length)

[@californiamusic]

This man has a big brain.. sweet video thx !

[@MR_Garage]

It's still swollen from being dropped a few times HAH! Thanks for watching!

[@garryrobinson364]

Thanks for another great video. On the 110/120 outlets the ground pin should always be positioned on top. This protects from any bare metal falling and coming into contact with the positive and negative posts if the plug is not securely in.

[@MR_Garage]

Interesting, I see a couple companies do this and that does make sense, but not the norm. It is good we can flip them since the sockets just clip in.

[@ChaJ67]

Another KZbinr went on about this and found the standard is ground pin up, the norm is ground pin down. The reason the standard is ground pin up is you are more likely to touch from the top, so if the plug is part way out, you bump the ground pin, not a hot blade. But then all of your wall warts are designed for ground pin down it seems.

[@InverterReview-qz9eg]

Thanks for helping us.... I see Topbull is a nice, reliable and affordable brand....

[@oscarnunez8613]

Hola,un video espectacular.Tengo uno como este pero el de 3000w,me hace una cosa rara,cuando le da la gana con poco o mucho consumo,es indiferente, corta la corriente de salida por un segundo y vuelve a funcionar con normalidad,sabrás a que puede ser debido?Gracias

[@MR_Garage]

When does it cut current? Not sure what it could be unless the batteries cannot keep up with a surge?

[@ChaJ67]

Are you sure those are not dual 4 AWG? I don't think it wise to pull 200A on dual 8 AWG in a stationary application. I have hit 100+ A on 8 AWG, but that was a really short run in an R/C helicopter with a lot of air flow and only for short bursts while doing extreme maneuvers. While 12V is the most popular, I am mostly doing 24V DC. The reasons I am doing 24V is the following: 1. My portable fridge can take 24V DC. No loses by running that through an inverter. If I had a 100 AH battery, I could go for days on a single charge and 100 AH LFP batteries are not that much these days. 2. When I was flying R/C helicopters, my hobby charger worked best off of a 24V battery. Basically power flowed straight across the buck-boost based charger into my flight packs that I charged in parallel. 3. Can get USB charging hardware to run straight off of 24V. 4. Smaller, easier to work with cabling.

[@MR_Garage]

They are for 100% not dual 4awg. They are dual 8awg. And agreed, much better to go to a higher voltage DC setup! Besides the included cable which I never use, this is a really good inverter!

[@ck17350]

Good review, this looks like a pretty nice unit. I wonder how close those included fuses are to their 30A rating. I'm curious about that fuse design as well. Properly rated fuses will provide some percentage of current over their rating for a stated time. When putting them all in parallel, they individually won't see the same over current that a single fuse would meaning that when the current gets split across 8 fuses, you might far exceed what would blow a single fuse rated for 240A. Hopefully the fuses blow when they should and they took this into the design consideration.

[@MR_Garage]

I agree 100%. It was a rather odd choice. The good news is, if someone designs properly, they have a fuse at the battery to account for this. Example, I run an MRBF fuse at 225A dedicated to this inverter. Hopefully it catches before the internal fuses go.

[@ck17350]

@@MR_Garage Agreed and very good advice. Always fuse as close to the battery as possible for max safety and never rely on the product's internal fusing to secure your equipment.

[@robbyota5598]

I believe there's no 20 amp receptacle because it can only put out 16 amps? 2,000W ÷ 120VAC = 16.66 AMPS?

[@MR_Garage]

Except the unit runs at 110v. Without surpassing its ratings, that is 18.18A. And with the unit surpassing its ratings. And with it being able to exceed its ratings, that put it at 19.54A draw. I really feel it should have 20A rated receptacles.

[@robbyota5598]

@@MR_Garage I believe I see what you're saying. It outputs more than 15 amps therefore should have a higher amperage outlet, 20 being the next size up. My question would be what would happens if it had a 20 amp outlet and somebody plugs in a 20 amp circuit? I believe it would go straight into overload and be okay? However that could be a potential hazard especially with the wires inside the unit being so thin powering the outlet?

[@MR_Garage]

Plugging in a 20a circuit will not do anything unless 20a is called upon per the connection. If a true 20A was called upon, it would just go into protect likely. Same as a home 15 or 20A. The is the maximum, continuous draw before the breaker heats and flips. It is more just safety for the outlet which is why I called it out. However, I did not notice any overheating or issues running it as hard as I did with the 15a outlets so it likely is an overbuilt design.