Torque Converter Components

Educational video describing the components that make up the automatic transmission torque converter. This video does not explain how the torque converter works but instead just the components. This is a precursor to an explanation video.

[@ChadBIsRacing]

Yea, great informational video. Two thumbs up.

[@rubiconklbrutorowman7577]

INDEED, excellent break down very detailed explanation with pinpointed each part's function that is key 2 understand how torque converter work and relating parts to synchronized operation.

[@ScottandTera]

Thanks for breaking it down

[@baratrahmani4023]

really nice thank you

[@spelunkerd]

Excellent!

[@sivucit]

Hi, I hope you remember me.. any case i have serviced my totyoa tranmsision with a mechanic. Now i see very minute leak between tranmission and engine exaclty below flex plate .. i changed the rear main seal, during transmisson service, will it be torque converter seal ?.. if you can advise me what all could be possible cause that will be helpful. apprecaite your help. it looks like PInk color

[@DrivelineMaster]

Pink in color is Auto Trans Fluid. It could just be the pan gasket near the front of the transmission. That would be the simplest. There is a torque converter bushing and seal as it enters the transmission that could be leaking. The transmission has to come out to fix this. It's difficult but sometimes you can see inside the bell housing in the direction of the transmission input shaft. If you can see oil in that area it would point to the converter seal. If the trans comes out to fix this make sure the converter hub is inspected for wear and also make sure the bushing that is right behind the seal is inspected and replaced as needed. If the bushing and or converter hub are worn it won't do much good to just replace the seal. You might need a technician to verify this. Sometimes a bore scope can be used to see in the hard to see places.

[@sivucit]

@@DrivelineMaster thanks as part of rebuilt input shaft is replaced and gasket replaced from transco. Not major leak not dripping if I swipe finger I can take one drop. Is it major that I have to fix

[@DrivelineMaster]

If the trans was rebuilt then they should have replaced the converter bushing and seal along with the torque converter so if that was done the odds are in your favor that your leak is not from the converter. Just for specifics the input shaft seals and converter seals are two different items. If you can take a socket and ratchet wrench and go around the oil pan bolts and carefully snug them up. you may find a few that have loosened up. Just be careful not to over tighten the torque on most of those is only around 100 inch pounds or 8.5 foot pounds. There is a good chance the pan gasket is seeping and may need to be replaced soon especially if it's one of the older style cork gaskets.

[@sivucit]

@@DrivelineMaster yes I do know the replaced bushing and seal and leak is not from transmission PAN. I believe when you talk about input shaft seal, you are referring to cv axle shaft seal if so it is not leaking from there. Thanks and appreciate your response

[@sivucit]

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks much, i took it shop where my trans was rebuild. We put it in lift, i see that color of oil drop was in brown color, so they said no leak from trans, i change rear main seal when my trans was out, we thought it is from rear main seal, so we took out an small plate just above the leak which gave access to the flex plate and when we ran our finger below the flexplate on that opening we dont see any leak of oil inside that space . does that mean rear main seal is not leaking when i dont see any evidence of oil in or across the flex palte .. he said it may be comng something from top to bottom but on rear main sael. pls advsie.

[@sivucit]

Hi, quick question, can i assume that oil pump send oil to valve body and then tcm activiates solenoid that send the oil back to torque converter to activate clutch during crusing.. 2. how do we test to find failed torque converter vs failed transmission(mehcanical). 3. how do i isolate valve body issue(hydralic) vs mechanicall..

[@DrivelineMaster]

I think I just answered you from your previous question. No the oil transfer that you described is incorrect. The valve body has a separate circuit just for the torque converter and the lockup clutch. You really need a good scan tool to help with this diagnosis. Maybe you start by sending me the year, make and engine and your symptoms. I might be able to give you some guidance from there.

[@sivucit]

@@DrivelineMaster 2013 Toyota Camry slipping on 3rd gear just for a sec like kind of no fuel or spark and then all goes well. It also have shudder at 40 mph. Toyota recommend to replace torque converter for second issue(shudder) and update software. For first issue forums are asking me to reset adoption value. Rebuilt team is asking m me to change entire valve body for 1st issue. No code was issued.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Let me address the shudder first. Lubegard makes a converter shudder fix additive that works great. www.lubegard.com/products/isf/ There are youtube videos on how well it works. Now for your 3rd gear slip that your calling it. If it feels like no fuel or spark this sounds more like a timing bind up. A slip would be an RPM flair up followed by a harsh bump into gear. Often called a slip bump. a bind up could in deed be a software update or an adaptive problem. Your transmission takes Toyota WS fluid. WS fluid almost always turns really black and a bit gritty. How many miles on this trans? This trans also does not have a dip stick. Gritty fluid could also cause the shudder. Take the plug out of the drain pan and catch some fluid in a container. Smell the fluid. If it smells burnt you have some major trans problems coming down the road. don't change the fluid. If it just smells funky but not burnt I would change the fluid in the pan. The problem is to properly refill this fluid you need a scan tool to get the fluid temperature and a special tool to add the fluid into the hole in the side of the transaxle. I have footage on how to do this but I have not had time to edit it and make it a full video. I know shops and technicians that are afraid to change the fluid in a high mileage vehicle for fear of slippage when they are done. The key is knowing if the fluid is burnt before you change it. I have never had a problem changing brown or black fluid in a high mileage vehicle as long as it didn't smell burnt. See if you can find a qualified shop that knows their stuff and who can tell you if the fluid smells burnt if your unsure. Then see if they will drain the pan and fill it back up for you. They must follow the proper procedures and use a scan tool for the fluid temp. If they don't the trans won't have a chance to function properly. As a note, if you truly have a slip and not a bind changing the fluid could make it worse. If you do have a slip the fluid will smell burnt. Also note that it is normal for WS fluid to look black and nasty. That is normal as long as it doesn't smell burnt. Once you determine you don't have a slip and the fluid is not burnt have the fluid changes. If you still have the shudder add the Lubegard fix. If you still have the gear bind find a place that can check the computer programing and or reflash the computer and or reset the adaptive. The shop drive the care after a flash and or adaptive reset. If they don't drive the care carefully after the adaptive's have been reset because slippage can occur until new adaptive's are established. I just looked up that Toyota does have a Technical bulletin for converter shudder. You can look up TSB T-SB-0312-17. It involves changing the converter and reprogramming the ECU. If your in Canada look up TSB T-TCI-5056. If your vehicle is out of warranty I would do as I suggested about and try the lubgard additive before replacing the converter.

[@sivucit]

@@DrivelineMaster can’t thank enough for writing detailed note. I am a mechanic who don’t work in Transmission. You are right with gear bind, it have to reset the adaptive. I gave it to a reputable transmission guy, he is saying it is because of valve body and he said 3rd gear clutch is burned out. I do know how to fill and flush this based on temperature and I have done it like 6 months ago. This trans has only 85k. Quick question. When valve body is replaced manual suggest to reset adaptive values, question is new or old valve body, shouldn’t be a matter to computer bcz all it does is turn on or off solenoid. Not sure how new valve body make this different

[@DrivelineMaster]

I don't work on these on a regular basis. Your trans person might see a lot of these and knows from experience. It's possible that the clutch is so burned up that it's not releasing which is causing the bind. Because of his experience he may know that to fix this without a comeback that the valve body will need to be replaced along with the overhaul. The solenoids can have slightly different resistance and inductive values and the computer might need to know this information in order to control them properly. These solenoids are not just on and off. They are linear and controlled very closely with a duty cycle voltage that controls the amp flow. If the trans has been operating due to problems it tried to adapt to those problems. After the repair you don't want the computer to try and control the new (rebuilt) trans as if it is the old trans with problems. That is why it needs to be reset and the new valve body needs to be programed into the ECU. It all really comes down to how well you trust your trans person and how competent you feel they are. Some trans people throw a rebuild and new valve body at everything figuring there is a high percentage that the problems will be fixed. Do you have a U660 or U760 transaxle?? You can find this info on the door jam sticker.