10 Fuel Efficiency ECO Driving Myths Exposed 🚗💨 What Really Works? - Save Fuel the RIGHT Way!

[@ddemaine]

Thanks

[@torquecars]

Thank you so much for your support, it really does help out us small channels.

[@nigelbarratt6825]

Many years ago I was a police officer, and when doing our advanced driver training we were also taught about efficient and economical driving as well as the fast stuff. Our instructor pointed out that the best word for fuel economy is anticipation, in other words looking and thinking ahead so you do everything calmly and gently. Braking wastes your expensive energy by turning it into wasted heat in your brakes. For example, one test we did was to start with 100 points and lose one point every time we touched the brake pedal. If you see a red traffic light several hundred yards ahead, take your foot off the gas now, don't keep it on and then switch to the brakes a few yards before stopping. You should gradually lose speed without braking, you've timed it right if the lights change just before you get there so you can carry on without braking, but if you do have to stop you only need to brake very gently as you've already slowed right down. Don't just look at the car in front, look as far ahead as you can see and 'read the road' as we were told. This type of driving not only saves fuel, it saves accidents as well. 'Don't be a B&B driver' (boot and brakes).

[@PhilbyFavourites]

I’m not a police skill level driver, far from it, but the anticipation method is key. Look well ahead and coast to the red light. Sadly mummie in her Discovery or young dad in his BMW don’t know what the word patience means. It’s a wonderful world really, if only it wasn’t for the general public it would be marvellous 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@__-fm5qv]

Yep whenI started doing this it helped massively. It also just is nicer to drive this way, less rushed. And you tend to get there just as fast if not quicker, because you're not stop-starting so much.

[@SabotsLibres]

Thanks for confirming my thoughts... Just one thing, it is tyres; not tires... One is a noun relating to rubber bands; the other is a verb related to sleepiness...

[@CorkVanDenHandel]

This guy deserves more viewers. Balanced, logical, and correct.

[@Olliebobalong]

Using the brakes as little as possible and focusing on a smooth drive is probably the best general advice. So many people happily jab the brakes and speed up just to slow down because they think overtaking before a roundabout somehow means they will get to where they need to be quicker. So many times this has happened just for me to drive behind them and end up passing them because they then dordle at the roundabout. I’ve a 1.5 DSG Kamiq and lifting off the throttle, the car just keeps going and going. Took some real getting used to but that car gets high 50s mpg with very normal driving, and over 68mpg on a long run fairly consistently, and the miles between refills confirms it.

[@gearedeagle6484]

Slow is smooth and smooth is fast 😎

[@issigonis975]

The dumbest fuel economy saving is manufacturers removing a full spare wheel. The first thing I did was find a cheap second hand one for my car and it has saved me trouble on four occasions since I had the car, yes I have had it quite a while. They are robbing you by not adding it as standard. They take up space yes but it is a safety item to me. I have replaced the flat a sorted the puncture out later when convenient. The biggest saving comes from the foot, that is all you need to know.

[@wolfschindler8921]

Brake as little as possible and keep the revs around 1/3 redline. That's all you need to know.

[@elliot438bcfcVTEC]

Learning to drive using the brake pedal less is the single most important factor for sure. People don't understand this though as they don't read the road ahead any further than their nose tip

[@wolfschindler8921]

@@elliot438bcfcVTEC I always ask myself the question: Why is everybody braking and I am not? 🤣

[@Bloodrayne800]

@@wolfschindler8921 I always ask that question as well. Makes me laugh how little people read the road ahead

[@dj_efk]

Saves on brake pads and disks too!

[@chrishart8548]

Maybe they are worried about the brake discs going rusty ​@@wolfschindler8921

[@tadasstrikauskas1205]

Window tint saves fuel in summer. Less heat - less AC power required

[@torquecars]

Good tip, I totally missed that one. Even in limited tint restricted areas you'd still be looking at lower heat gain.

[@Assimilator1]

Pretty much bang on, the only thing I would counter is that their are plenty of port injected sports cars which are designed to run on super unleaded. Anyway, good video 😎

[@jim-bob-outdoors]

In our little Mazda MX5 we have used both e5 and e10 fuel. We get better mpg with the high octaine but its cost is higher. Overall we break even on price per mile. The fact that the engine just runs better on the high octaine, I think its worth using it all the time when possible.

[@tomasz5274]

Interesting, usually engines are designed for specific number of octaine and they should work the best with such fuel. Using higer octain fuel in engine designed for lower values may give no or insignificant difference (waste of $?) while using lower octain fuel in engine deisgned for higher values should cause inferior performance. The car/vehicle manual should state which fuel is recommended. Note: sometimes the same car models are supplied with the same engines but tuned to different fuel for different markets so it's best to check manual supplied with car or dowonload the one for the market matching the vehicel origin.

[@jim-bob-outdoors]

@@tomasz5274 in the Mazda it says 95 is the minimum. No noticeable power difference, just mpg.

[@Kaz590]

@@jim-bob-outdoors that's due to the Ethanol content.

[@timkis64]

i went on a rolling resistance reduction test.using synthetic oil, trans oil, diff oil.repacked front bearings with synthetic grease & adjusted them a hair loose to reduce drag.& adjusted rear brakes so there is no contact with drums when not braking.was able to nearly double coasting time off throttle on my nightly dedicated deliveries.was able to coast with throttle closed for total over 4 miles per night.picked up about 1.25 mpg.i kept tires at 33 due to perfect wear patterns.thats 28 miles a week & 112 miles a week i went WITHOUT throttle.the gas savings added up QUICK.

[@jburdman7]

Your ODO probably does not register during coast - be careful not to lock your steering wheel or lose brake boost vacuum

[@Sn00pyJ508]

Tyres that are under inflated wear on the outsides and also affect handling. Keep an eye on tyre wear to determine the optimum. My car (Volvo) states an ECO tyre pressure, which is higher than “normal”.

[@MatthewHogg23]

I now currently use Shell V-Power (99 Octane) in my Abarth 595, since it's a factory tuned, modern turbocharged 'performance' engine. No problems over 12 months and bought the car on a 65 plate with 50k on the clock. I'm 45 so past 'boy racer' driving - and can easily get 50mpg at 50-60mph in 'Sport Mode' (like it needed one 🤷‍♂️😂). Also, only has a 5-speed gearbox. Not bad for a car that does 0-60mph in 6s 👍 Previously ran an Alfa Giuluetta 1.6 JTDm-2 diesel for 10 years. After the DPF got clogged on supermarket fuel, switched to BP Ultimate. Cost a fortune and caused even more soot build-up than the supermarket stuff, resulting in a stuck glow plug (changed every service) and visible soot at the exhaust tip! So, Shell V-Power (petrol) gets 👍😀👌. BP Ultimate (diesel) gets 👎💸🙄 P.S. Despite the above issues later in life. Drove my Alfa to 100k miles with zero electrical issues and just the problems with soot on the engine. Other than that, the car was the MOST reliable I've ever owned. Had it far longer than any Ford, VW, Audi and BMW I had previously owned. I had to get rid of all the German cars due to expensive faults, mainly electrical (engine AND non-engine related). Alfa also gave me by far the best main dealer experience all-round to boot. So, just setting the record straight on Alfa Romeo's and Italian cars in general being the most unreliable. I continue to have the opposite experience! Finally, I had never fallen in love with a car before.. but both the Alfa and Abarth just make you feel special.. 🤍💚❤️ and are great fun, even the diesel. 'Scuderia Italia! Grazzi Mille! 🇮🇹

[@markosborn5713]

Don't believe you

[@danpeters7850]

There is many ao called eco products that claim to work but in reality many don't in my humble option service your car more than the manufacturer guide to ensure the engine is perfect don't skimp on cheap oil and use the correct grade make sure all tyres are the same or at the very least same brand on the same axle and make sure your tyre pressure is correct and plan well ahead whilst driving don't brake heavy and accerate hard most things are just common sence and constant town use is no good to your car either I have my car serviced once a year even if I only do less than 5k miles and it will have a full service as its much cheaper than a replacement engine but this is my personal option

[@esenel92]

Get an OBD2 dongle that you can connect to your phone so that you can track fuel consumption in real time, and see changes within a few seconds. On my car I learned that it runs most efficient around 85 km/h, and keep the throttle steady if possible even if speed varies a little, and if needed use small adjustments so the ECU can optimize well.. 27 KM/L on the highway (long rides when its warmed up) in summer with a suzuki alto (2009) with it's 1.0 engine is very well possible (30+ can be done if all the stars align). Biggest "killer" of efficiency turned out to be moving the throttle all over the place, as after every time you make a rapid change it needs 20-30 secs to go back to very low consumption again. When my sister who is a way more agressive driver and won't even allow 1 km/h under the speed limit and because of that is constantly changing the throttle position never even hits that "efficient" point in my car where the ECU has it all figured out and gets really high efficiency. She just keeps it busy with constant "big" changes to the throttle position.

[@jonathanl1276]

The Toyota/Lexus Hybrid Synergy Drive eCVT also exhibits similar behaviour to what you described. The engine handles immediate changes to power demand when the throttle is varied. If throttle is held constant for a short period the system then figures out an optimum set of RPMs within its planetary gearbox for the established power demand. This is felt and heard as a sudden decrease in engine RPM and noise, and a jump in fuel economy as engine and electric motor outputs are balanced out. Once my car hits this state I would hold it and let the car's speed vary over small inclines. In fact, hypermilers find holding constant throttle on the flat and uphill, letting off on the downhill, and therefore rolling over hills like a rollercoaster gives the best fuel economy because the ups and downs would often average each other out.

[@TimpBizkit]

Remember not everything that saves fuel is safe - like engine off coasting downhill while tailgating a lorry. Also if you tailgate a lorry on a drizzly day with muddy roads, your screen wash bill exceeds your fuel bill.

[@tradito]

i waited sixteen and a half minutes to hear this man say "lugging the engine!" and now i'm disappointed.

[@torquecars]

LOL, I missed a trick there. This video has me saying it quite a lot... kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6DXaHd-jsR2Z8U But you've probably already seen that one!

[@307pug205]

Peugeot 207 1.4, using E10 fuel I could get 350 miles to a tank, using E5 I could get over 400 miles to a tank, and runs better on E5

[@Olliebobalong]

That doesn’t seem very efficient for what, a 50l tank?

[@EvzenKovar-i5p]

I have 3 different tire gauges, 1 on my battery pack jump starter air pump and 2 hand-held(one premium one), and they all yield a different psi reading across a variation of about 6psi. Only say this because I’ve often wondered if most of the driving public isn’t running around with incorrectly set tire pressures to begin with even when owners are thinking they are being really observant about it.

[@Howie57]

I have always used a good brand fuel ( BP ,Shell etc)..I hardly ever fill up with supermarket fuel, I'm hoping my injectors are relatively clean.

[@odin5188]

Tesco 99 is good. Also where do you think all the supermarkets get their petrol? They sure as hell don't drill for it themselves 😂 They're just cheaper because they can offset the cost with the groceries business. Octane matters more if especially on turbo cars

[@tomasz5274]

@@odin5188 My understatnding is that octane matters if the engine is designed to be able to use more octane, otherwise the difference can be only the end price and not necesseraly in car performance. I'm sure there is plenty of YT clips diving into this subject. I wouldn't bet my life on it but I heard that while the same fuel is at the local distribuition points there are different addicitives added later on. Not sure if they are adding it just before or after delivery to gas station still the end result is alegedly a fuel with different additives on different brand of stations.

[@odin5188]

@tomasz5274 Yes you're right it matters on turbo charged cars to help against detonation. It's not only because of octane i use it. Like you said the cleaning products. Anyway to protect against carbon build up, is a good thing

[@L3xou97]

If you have a fragile engine, like the stellantis 1.2 purebreak (puretech) and it is the turbo version you should be running higher octane fuel. So the engine doesn't need to run rich, so less fuel is going into the oil and the engine will not break as fast. Fuel economy isn't the only factor

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Firstly, don't buy a car with a fragile engine, and secondly, don't buy anything from Stellantis. Good ol Toyota will save you the most money.

[@L3xou97]

@BubblesTheCat1 When it's too late and you already bought it, it's a good tip to push it past 50 000 miles. + it's not only stellantis. Honda did it once, and ford also with their ecoboost

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@L3xou97 🤷‍♂️😊🙋🏼‍♂️

[@thetruth7633]

Assertive driving, let go off throttle on time, unless you have regenerative braking use them hard, 50% throttle when acceleration. Do not forget to clean your engine with occasional full throttle acceleration over the entire bandwidth. I never have common clogged system problems but still around/above average fuel consumption. MPG by manufacturer are BS anyway. Note clogged systems (soot, carbon sludge on intake, DPF, cat etc..) lead to higher fuel consumption.

[@TheRealCaptainMustard]

Some good points. All common sense, really.

[@dj_efk]

Agree, but then aren’t most things about driving in the UK common sense? Then again with many drivers, I find common sense is not so common.

[@danpeters7850]

I agree captain mustard its all common sence but many people brake very heavily and floor it and don't service their engine which cost a lot more fuel

[@jburdman7]

The economy of a manual gearbox is in having a transmission which will out last the rest of the car 3x over with a clutch or two

[@mmllmmll22]

EU M32 says hello. Still fords IB5/IB6 is bulletproof. Had IB5 with half of the oil, no issues for over 40k kms. Didn't even hear a thing.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Strange that people need clutches or two. I've driven several vehicles to over 200k kilometres without any clutch replacement needed...

[@jburdman7]

@@BubblesTheCat1 You are not slipping the clutch at stops on grades. Me neither. My scenario is needing a clutch or two for three car lifetimes. Say 700k miles. I bought my car used from a city slicker- I have no idea how much of the clutch he used up. I do know that my rear drum brakes are on track to out last me and the car the way I drive.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@jburdman7 Yeah, me too. I'm an ex vehicle technician and do my own stuff. My brakes also seem to last forever 😁🇿🇦🙋🏼‍♂️

[@neolerades2987]

@@BubblesTheCat1 200k km is NOTHING and most people will get through it in a few years and definitely don't need a clutch replacement. For me, the lifespan of a car is 500-750k km and in that time it will need at least one clutch replacement. A car with 200k km is definitely not at the end of its life and I personally consider it a slightly used car.

[@michaellavery4899]

Surely, all that pressurised nitrogen could pose a problem when it comes to the bends.

[@torquecars]

LOL that was a subtle one, nicely done!

[@michaellavery4899]

@torquecars 10/10 for spotting it!

[@JDM-Jack]

Can we please have a video about all the liquids? Like many people never change the coolant fluid or the gearbox oil... or for example, my BMW's breaking fluid is also used for the clutch itself.

[@torquecars]

I will put something together for you. I did one on coolants kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2WpdqBnicSVepI and there are quite a few on engine oil in this playlist kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJjRfomIjrJqp80 But I will add transmission fluid/gearbox oil etc...

[@JDM-Jack]

@torquecars Awesome!

[@adrianlw2750]

Getting best fuel economy can be one of those nerdy things that people will do. I do it myself when I’m in the mood. But there are other times when my journey purpose is to get from A to B in a shorter time, so that is then the focus. I do know that with my current petrol engined car (2 litre automatic dct) I can achieve around 55 mpg on a nerdy trip from Kent into Carmarthenshire, but realistically if economy is not uppermost, then around 42 mpg is what I expect. As others have said, anticipation is king. I hardly have to use my brakes as I’m looking well ahead, and this applies regardless of whether I’m in economy or time efficiency modes of driving. My car has a “green” mode which politely tells me I’ve gained around 12 miles range on a typical and careful 275 mile trip across the country. So that’s a £1.80 saving then. Wow… a large Americano costs £4.25. I’ll just go without the Americano and “gain” 28 miles range haha.

[@stephandolby]

One thing I will say about EVs is even if the electricity flowing into your car comes from a very dirty source, it's still significantly better for air quality than using petrol or diesel. Also, EVs may eat through tyres more in general but conversely, they use their brakes less, and in some cars, the brakes are certainly more expensive than the tyres, so there's a potential cost saving there as well... and of course, reduced servicing costs.

[@aarc2010]

fueling in the morning? good advice, worth trying. 😅 joking... thanks for the summary on economy driving, all is true.

[@spawntohell]

😂😅you are going to wake up some haters with this, but you ccannot please everyone.... god job putting this together and i think is 100 % corect

[@beautgrainger147]

My best motorway mpg has been while getting somewhat of a move on.. but thats with gearing for 2000rpm at 70.. depends on the wind and traffic too.. 55mph is great if on the flat when sheltered from the wind but otherwise lugs and downshifts or revs the engine. There's torque converter lockup on 4th and 5th, and still manages better MPG than early changes in manual mode. Interestingly, my brother used to find his first V8 merc got a slightly higher average mpg if driving it a bit harder to warm it up quicker.

[@ky7299]

Use your cruise control if you have one and the trip allows it safely. I've seen ignition advance go up to 45° with CC on while i was never able to achieve such high advance using the throttle pedal at the exact same speed. With CC on the ECU uses different maps optimized for fuel economy using lean burn when engine load is low enough to safely do so.

[@michaellavery4899]

I have read that cruise control causes the car's computer to apply the brakes many more times than the driver would do naturally, through the ASM (active stability management etc), and not just when rolling down a hill, so I wonder what effect this has on overall economy? All those minor inputs must cause premature wear of the pads and discs, not to mention the extra fuel used to regain the intended speed. If road conditions are favourable, I turn ASM off, but activating cruise control reengages it.

[@michaellavery4899]

I have read that cruise control causes the car's computer to apply the brakes many more times than the driver would do naturally, through the ASM (active stability management etc), and not just when rolling down a hill, so I wonder what effect this has on overall economy? All those minor inputs must cause premature wear of the pads and discs, not to mention the extra fuel used to regain the intended speed. If road conditions are favourable, I turn ASM off, but activating cruise control reengages it.

[@ky7299]

@@michaellavery4899 I don't think that's the case because engine braking is more than enough to slow down unless the downhill is a cliff. Active stability systems only engage the brakes in corners when their management senses that the car is about to start slipping by comparing the signals of ABS sensors. Why would active stability engage the brakes when you are traveling along a highway in mostly a straight line?

[@18_rabbit]

@@michaellavery4899 sounds like a quite advanced car? My undestanding is that the wear on brakes would be unimaginably minimal and so fuel extra use also negligible. And fwiw, though we all like to have an optimized car, generally speaking, less is more when changing settings that the mfr has chosen for optimal safety. Outthinking or overthinking the engineers is just usually a waste of our mental space and attention/focus

[@mrmim0x173]

@@michaellavery4899 I guess that's a minority of cars. I had a similar function on a work van, a 2021 or 2022 Mercedes sprinter. Hated this function, it would not let you take speed down a hill, and would keep you at max 5km/h above your cruise control speed. If engine brake can't keep up it will use brake pads to keep you under the 5km/h. Very bad for brake wear and fuel economy, good for radars

[@dartskipper3170]

I have a 2016 Insignia with the 1.9 twin cam diesel engine with 6 speed transmission. It was my company car and I bought it when I retired. It is approaching 150,000 miles and is still in excellent condition. At 2,000 rpm in top gear (6th gear) it runs at around 70 mph and returns just under 55 mpg. 2,000 rpm is recommended to clean the DPF. If I push up to 2500 or 3000 rpm I'm breaking the limit! The engine meets Euro6 specs and is ULEZ exempt. Annual Vehicle Excise Duty is £30. This engine was developed by SAAB and after GM bought them used it in many of their range plus supplying Alfa Romeo and other brands in the group. I shall keep it going for as long as I can because it is so economical.

[@1over137]

My GT86 subaru engine says "98 RON ONLY" on the fuel cap. However the manual says different. I have run it on 95 and 98 and there was a very minor MPG increase. I now just run it on 95. What you would notice was when you were forced to mix the tank. For example, running on 98, but getting caught short and having to stick £20 of Tesco 95 in it. The engine mapping doesn't like this and tends to run rough for a mile or two and then smoothen out.

[@adji69]

I've always used supreme e5, used e10 and the engine just feels like it's numb and lifeless and less responsive overall. I rather pay the extra per litre and enjoy my car and driving. Also see better mpg with supreme overall.

[@Dan23_7]

The E 10 has a lower calorific value, it basically doesn’t burn as well as E 5.

[@david-hf3dk]

@@adji69 Since that e10 came out my car sometimes has a flat spot on pulling away briskly from say a roundabout and my car was made in 2015 so was apparently made to run on it but doesn't like it although I can't say there is any difference in mpg that I have noticed.

[@adji69]

@@david-hf3dk my car is a 2015 too, has a turbo and I've read that e10 is no good for trubos. Not sure how true this is. But definitely feels lifeless and isn't as responsive

[@ZEEKUPP]

I have found that the air conditioner kills economy worse during stop and go town driving. On the highway I see little loss.

[@bobanob-q2u]

Many,many years ago my instructor said "remember that a heavyweight right foot will leave you with a lightweight wallet"!

[@torquecars]

I like that phrase, it makes a lot of sense.

[@jpgpearson]

people get peeved when i go 30 in a 30 area.....i use cruise control....

[@gearedeagle6484]

Do 33 bud

[@gearedeagle6484]

And use phone GPS. You'll find 30mph on your speedo is actually 26-27mph. The higher your speed, the more mph out it will be. Ie, at 70 mph you'll really be at 65mph.

[@cjmillsnun]

What you talk about with the 7 hour charge time is why I have the oldest economy tariff of them all to charge my car. Economy 7. And yes I make a substantial saving over diesel. But I rarely public charge. However I'd dispute that it's much more expensive than ICE on public charging. It varies from about cost neutral, to about 1p per mile more expensive.

[@Xenon777_]

9:03 I never used to believe there was a noticeable difference between fuel brands. However, my 1.4 TDCI car runs a lot better on the FuelSave diesel from the local Shell fuel station compared to the (slightly cheaper) Esso fuel. There is an injector on its way out, but the Shell diesel definitely reduces the chances of a misfire. I can drive hundreds of miles without a single misfire but on Esso diesel, it was multiple times per journey! With our other vehicles, they seem to run fine with any brand.

[@IvermectinFTW]

Re high-octane fuel, a lot depends on whether your ECU has adaptive learning. In those that do, the ECU will gradually advance ignition to take advantage of the higher resistance to knock, resulting in slightly better performance and MPG. However, this MPG increase is unlikely to compensate for the additional cost of say V-Power 99.

[@Lif-999]

For most of the driver/idiots out there, you might as well be speaking klingon! However, I applaud your attempt at enlightening us all. Keep bulls**t busting, that man.

[@davidebacchi9030]

In summer you can still use the climate control as fan only: much less drag (and noise) than going with windows down and more fuel efficient (I measured around 1 km/L between going with the AC on and only with fan at maximum speed)

[@danmaycock9238]

Cruise control slap bang in the middle of the torque band 👍

[@lewismartin4306]

This channel nust be getting throttled by the car and gas companies. Because it’s bloody epic!

[@daveelliott5855]

When I travel from Somerset to Northumberland some 370 miles, on the motorway I travel behind HGV's I can get between 5-8 mpg, usually the mid to high 60s mpg. I save a couple of quid per trip it saves us about £15-20 per year on these trips

[@martin913913]

I work as an car mechanic. And i tell you that its unbelievable how much fuel we've got to "scrap", because somebody mixed gasoline and diesel(no stolen fuel, I swear. Sometimes really old gasoline from boats, as those engines are quite expensive and really dont like such stuff). Im running 70 years old two stroke cca 200cc motorbike with intentionally lowered compression ratio(knock prevention, maybe a horsepower lost + a little of fuel efficiency goes out of the window, but who cares...) and I haven't got to buy fuel for four years. Just oil for it. And traveled over 60k km over those four years... It doesnt matter to me if it breaks down, its just so stupidly simple to get it running again(after 14 years two complete engine overhauls for like 300 dollars each + my labor. 200k km total so far only with me, total mileage unknown(i think about like 700k km XD)), parts for it are literally everywhere in my country, dirt cheap. And I tell you that I dont know what to do with that absolute sh**load of money I have now.... I really need a car like two days in a month. Just sacrifice some comfort and grow some balls. If you really don't need to haul over a ton of metal and plastic with you to get to your work, just get a simple old motorbike, thats popular in your country, learn how to keep it in shape and tell me in 15 years, if its worth it, even if you have to buy that fuel. I can now afford to plate that bike in pure gold...

[@globallancenter7864]

Thanks for the video bud ...may i ask .. What about the DPF removal?? will be the same issues e gains as the EGR delete ?? my car is a 3lt dieses and i most use for short journeys to work, i've got the dpf clogging and clean .. but I'm about to do stage 2 on this car with DPF delete and after your video , may EGR delete and remap . what you advise me to do ??

[@BazDeeWren]

Thanks, very useful information video 😊.

[@torquecars]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SaluteAntal]

I have a 10k mile new car, I noticed a strong smell of petrol of the GDI engine oil. Is it due to piston blowby, or should the fuel pump rather be examined closely? Any other hints what could let petrol in the oil?

[@flybobbie1449]

My diesel likes 65mph for economy, gets 65mpg. But my BMW Z4 likes 70 to 80mph, goes to 45-48mpg. I think BMW tuned for the autobahn.

[@233kosta]

Nitrogen goes up in pressure more as it heats up than regular air. The reason they use it in racing is because its composition is entirely known and its behaviour is thus able to be precisely predicted. Regular air is subject to all sorts or local variation and contamination which means its behaviour will not be as consistent as that of pure N2 from track to track and from race to race. When you're chasing microseconds that can come into play. When you're going up the M1 in moderate traffic it makes pish-all difference. Don't waste your time & money.

[@davidmarshall6616]

If there is anyone out there who pays to inflate their tyres with nitrogen, please get in touch with me as i have a bridge i can sell them.

[@L3xou97]

Or be like me and turn the A/C on to the minimum temp, but only when you need to brake or going downhill (while engine braking). Free A/C and less use of brake pads

[@BubblesTheCat1]

I also do that! It really does work and keeps you cool enough while saving brakes and rotors. Especially with a small (1.4 litres) engine like my Nissan Sunny's. 😁🙋🏼‍♂️

[@sueplummer-x4k]

I agree totally

[@paultasker7788]

Certainly if I'm going to do a lot of long distance trips I'll use E5 super unleaded because the fuel economy makes up for the price difference. It does at Costco anyway where it's about 6p a litre more. If you're paying 10/15p a litre more it's not worth it. With super unleaded in economy will be in the mid 50s instead of the very low 50s. Around town/commutes doesn't seem to make much difference. About 35mpg on both. Golf mark 7 1.5tsi.

[@vHindenburg]

Actually havent tried the high octane fuel since the the manual stated that it doesnt need it. On the other hand 10% Ethanol instead of the regular 5% fuel had way worse economy with my car. So much worse that the. E10 fuel is more expensive overall. Its supercharged maybe I should try the premium once just ro see if it makes a difference whatsoever. I guess the 620km biweekly comute is long enough to get something conclusive.

[@angelamartim8337]

9:26 13:47 What would you consider a "high-compression" engine?

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

@@angelamartim8337 12:1 or higher

[@angelamartim8337]

@@WarriorOfEden3033 Thanks. The engine of my car is 12:1.

[@angelamartim8337]

@@WarriorOfEden3033 May I ask another question please? For example, is it true that a higher compression engine is more likely to cause low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) depending on the fuel you are putting in? I'm imagining a scenario where lower-octane fuel combined with a high-compression engine will more easily result in LSPI. Is that correct?

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

@@angelamartim8337 too low of an octane in a high compression engine will cause knock if that’s what you are asking. That’s why high compression engines run very well on 91/93+ or E85 that is 105 octane

[@angelamartim8337]

@@WarriorOfEden3033Thanks!! So I've been researching the topic of air-fuel ratio and spark plugs and have been hearing that theoretically in order to have less incomplete combustion the ideal would be to have a low-compression engine. Then my question becomes what are the advantages of a high-compression engine? Can you tell one? Because if I'm not wrong, high-compression engines are picky with fuel, more likely to result in pre-ignition, and probably run hotter than average which presumably will have to inject more fuel to prevent the engine from overheating (richer air-fuel mixture). What do you think about all this?

[@kingduckford]

Driving too slow actually starts to kill fuel economy. The longer the travel time, the more the engine run time, the more fuel is used to simply keep the motor running. Idling doesn't take much fuel, but then again, that is a flat 0 MPG. Traveling too slow eventually murders fuel economy because the engine run time kills any gain from less motor strain/immediate fuel use. 45 MPH has often been seen as peak efficiency has often times been seen as an optimum speed for an incredible range of automobiles, gears, motors, ect., or there around. Driving too slow isn't just a waste of time, it is a waste of fuel.

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

Depends: vehicle weight, final drive & how many speeds the transmission has. Also every car has a happy zone for acceleration & fuel economy. Mine is around 2000rpm about 1/4 pedal compression

[@0HOON0]

Not really, but it's rude to delay other people on the road.

[@kingduckford]

@@0HOON0 If you drive 15 miles at 15 MPH you will spend an hour of engine run time, if you drive that same distance at 60 MPH you will spend only 15 minutes on the road with engine run time. Considering all the factors from gears, power bands, throttle opening, ect., do you really think the car is really four times as efficient in lower gear for that extended period of time than driving faster?

[@MartinBennett-rs6thrasher]

What has travel/ journey time got to do with MPG / economy? It's per gallon not per hour. 45mph is too slow. Some powerful cars have an optimal cruising speed of 85mph. As touched on in the video, only way to prove MPG is to start with a full tank. Run vehicle round a consistent circuit or on a rolling road at different fixed speeds for a determined distance. Refilling will indicate how much fuel was used. It's basic physics, not relying on a display.

[@Olliebobalong]

That’s not really true. Driving at 60 vs 70mph can save 25% in fuel efficiency in some cases, but the speed difference there is only 13%, because that’s how the laws of physics work. 30 vs 20mph however is a 50% difference. Take a look at your MPG readout; drive to a desktops quickly vs efficiently and you’ll see how flawed your argument is. MPG calculators aren’t time dependant. They are calculated by distance. It’s ‘miles per gallon’ not ‘hours per gallon’.

[@johnnyonthespot2498]

i always floor it , it is solve all the eco problem ,

[@david-hf3dk]

I used to drive like that when I was younger and got told " You don't need a throttle peddle as an on / off switch would work better 😂.

[@harryjones5260]

re tyre inflation - the air pressure in the tyre is going to go up as the tyre heats up anyway. the recommended pressure will allow for that

[@ZEEKUPP]

I prefer Chevron with Techron.

[@theodavies8754]

I can get better mpg than cruise control on a long run. On a hot day I can get 35+ mls per imp gallon from my 4.0 v8 s type jaguar. I can also get it down to 6 mpg which is much more fun.

[@espencapable]

Here in Norway, mostly charging at home, we average 1/10 the cost compared to fossils. Cheap electricity and expensive fuel. Also smart apps for chargning when the electricity price is low. Especially during the night time. Charging while travelling though will cost the same as fossils, and more if you include food and drinks while waiting for a charge :D

[@hamishlovesit4731]

😂 folly

[@Olliebobalong]

Oh nice. What it is to live in a big country with a small homogenous population heavily subsides by the oil industry 🥳🥳🥳

[@espencapable]

@@Olliebobalong I believe every country should be able to subsidize electricity through higher taxation on fuel. It all depends on what strategy a country pursues. The oil industry in Norway is not directly subsidizing anything. It goes into to a huge fund which invests all over the world. Rarely do we see anything being budgetted out of the fund. Taxation is key to be able to control what a population does.

[@233kosta]

Fuel pumps are temperature compensated. You're effectively buying fuel by the kg.

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

E85 has an octane rating of 105 but gets worse fuel economy

[@eddiejones.redvees]

My Vauxhall Astra 1.6 diesel 2015 j tyres have a economical pressure of 36 psi which does give me a greater mpg but the ride is to hard and my wife complains so 34 is my happy pressure but if I am carrying more people on a long journey then I put more psi in and ride is ok you don’t realise how the pressure increases as the tires get hotter. You can see this on the tyre pressure monitor which I’ve never had before on a car the biggest thing that increases mpg is your speed at 60 miles an hour on the motorway in sixth gear with cruise control on a little traffic. I can see my car achieves over 60 mpg it was average 56 mpg around town but I got a new battery fitted a few weeks ago and the stop start is working again but I turned it off because it annoys me

[@dj_efk]

My car is a lightweight little aluminium Audi A2 - I had the tyres set to the full load pressure and wondered why the ride was so bad - turns out I had 185 section tyres and the pressures on the fuel flap are for 175 - the correct pressures were therefore just 3 psi lower from where I was. That small difference made an unbelievable improvement to the ride quality - which proves cars are more sensitive to tyre pressure than you might think.

[@ComeJesusChrist]

“Efficiency” is the wrong approach to judge any car, anyway, especially when the other factors are ignored. Manufacturers produce engines and cars with fuel efficiency in mind under various circumstances. Their engineering is good enough for me not to chase efficiency further, other than keep to the few simple principles that haven’t changed for decades. For example, I wouldn’t heavily Rev a cold engine and wouldn’t climb in low revs. It really annoys me when EV drivers are referring to efficiency and in their mind, efficiency differences mainly cover the distance per fuel cost figure, overlooking that the government penalises one differently from the other type of propulsion. I suppose, their EV gets significantly less efficient when charged at 89p per kWh. They also ignore the energy waste from fast charging, preheating the battery and the loss while the battery is left unused. EVs are also a lot more sensitive to running the heating or cooling/air conditioning, to higher speed, climbing, towing and extra passengers. Imagine how much excitement and motoring pleasure the slow Tesla drivers have, being able to give a precise figure of their average miles per kWh and the cost of their motoring! It’s nice to enjoy a car and driving it differently sometimes.

[@jonathanl1276]

When I drive my Toyota hybrid with its e-CVT on the highway, I find there is a speed sweet spot where the fuel economy goes down from either being too fast or too slow. Too fast and petrol is burnt uneconomically to fight increased air and rolling resistance. Too slow and the amount of petrol burnt per second does not cover as much distance.

[@Ep1o]

@@jonathanl1276 so what speed do you find has the best mpg?

[@jonathanl1276]

@@Ep1o I drive a Toyota Aqua/Prius C. On a completely flat and well-maintained highway its 1.5L engine can hold 80km/h at roughly 30-35km/L (70-80mpgUS). If I go faster or slower the instantaneous fuel economy begins to creep downwards. At least if I slow down below ~65km/h the engine is able to shut down and I can begin coasting in EV mode.

[@0HOON0]

​@@jonathanl127648mph on the highway! Are you serious?

[@jonathanl1276]

@@0HOON0 It depends on where you live of course. Most of the highway speed limits near where I live in New Zealand is 80km/h which suits my car's fuel economy just fine.

[@wailingalen]

I have a 2023 2 door jeep wrangler 3.6 6MT It comesnwith a trip computer with fuel economy and ive paid attention to how driving habits affect econ. Driving at 55-60 gives me about 25-28mpg. Slower gives me more. Driving 70mph gives me 20-22. Driving 85mpg gives me 16-19mpg. There is little difference between driving with open windows and using ac, bc these mew ac systems are more efficient and the jeeps shape is already boxy so theres little difference with the windows. Therenis a higher difference at higher speeds like 65+ only about 1mpg. Driving with the too retracted does net 1-2 mpg lower avergae.

[@geriatricprogrammer4364]

Injector cleaner....42 to 47 mpg. Every 1000 miles or so.

[@scottdyke7853]

Are you leaving the hand brake on? My 2.0TDi does 60 -70 mpg on my daily commute

[@Birmingham_racing]

@@scottdyke7853not everyone drives a diesel on the motorway

[@Olliebobalong]

1000 miles seems excessive. May as well just run it with premium all the time.

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

AC issue solved by have a windshield with 20% tint & 5% tint around 😂

[@mmllmmll22]

Sadly, in my country i can't tint my windshield over literally 2%, and front sides over 25% (as they come from factory with max 5%)

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

@ technically my tint is illegal 😂 they just don’t stop people in my state

[@Richard_L_Y]

Not saying you're wrong; as this is entirely anecdotal; however I've never seen excessive middle only wear from over inflation - only still some excessive wear on one side or the other, as well as to some extent the middle, but 'almost' never both sides as well?

[@yeahno....]

I have, on a Maserati with 295 width tyres, went through couple of sets in around 10k Next set the fitters overinflated by about 10psi or 25% and I didn’t notice, these lasted 5k before the centre maybe 100mm was down to the wear markers, next set no problem whatsoever, so either the fitters caused the issue with overinflated tyres or the compound was different (same brand and type) but the wear would normally be on the inner edge first due to alignment

[@curtisj2165]

Should you not drive around with a full tank of fuel to save weight?

[@torquecars]

It's not a massive or noticeable difference, a 60 litre tank (25kg) is half full half of the time a half filled tank (12.5kg) is quarter full half of the time. I find the effort of making 2 trips to refuel rather than one outweighs any real world saving.

[@davidwilkinson7746]

E10 😢😢

[@alf7571]

People in countries with km/h do follow you videos, só when you refer miles/h please Also refer the equivalente in km/h. Much appreciated.

[@torquecars]

I never even thought about that, so thanks for flagging this up. I will certainly try to do so in future (after my already queued videos go live).

[@chrisdaniels3929]

Use 8/5 or 5/8 to convert. 1609m to a mile.

[@randompotatoguy9347]

my diesel gets 450 a tank lol.

[@j-on-osrs-2k7]

i call bs on the auto's giving better fuel economy than manuals and i can prove this with any car over a course of 3,000 miles.... i'd even pay all costs if you have an auto/manual in the exact same car... proof? ive got hundreds of pics/video's i take as my dad and I compare fuel economy, i drive a 2012 fiesta diesel.... my minimum MPG is 68, highest ive ever had was 82

[@dodiloi]

​@@j-on-osrs-2k7 I get better fuel econ from an auto audi A4 compared to my old manual A3, despite being heavier (probably the newer engine makes the big difference, both 2.0 diesels 2019 vs 2011 and 150 vs 140 hp.) Ps: I drive with as much engine breaking as possible most of the time, and used to always downshift the manual.

[@j-on-osrs-2k7]

@dodiloi that comparison you just gave might be good foe you, but its not the point i stated... I said with any car thats the same, so if we compared a manual vs auto... They would both have to be either an a3 or a4, one in auto one in manual, not an auto in one model and then manual on a completely different model. This isnt just theory by the way its proven facts across multiple car brands with manufacturing centres doing their own tests, the manual always gets better MPG

[@dj_efk]

Those diesel fiestas are brilliant on fuel - you can get 60mpg without even trying.

[@dj_efk]

@@dodiloiThere’s a lot of love for the VAG PD diesel for a reason 😊

[@torquecars]

For reference I know the Audi/VW DSG boxes are usually more economical than the manual version with the same engine, when they have an extra gear and dual clutch operation it makes sense. They are not alone, in my research I pulled up the following that also follow this trend. MPG quoted below are the US version, UK MPG figures are generally higher all round, because we have a smaller country and have to make distance and fuel look better. LOL Honda Civic (1.5L Turbocharged Engine) The Honda Civic equipped with a CVT achieves better fuel economy than its manual version. For example, the CVT might deliver around 36 MPG combined, while the manual version typically falls a few MPG short, especially in city driving. Toyota Corolla (2.0L Dynamic Force Engine) The automatic version with a CVT, featuring Toyota's advanced gearless design, often exceeds manual versions in efficiency. It’s common to see the automatic model reaching 40 MPG highway, while the manual stays closer to the mid-30s. Mazda3 (2.5L SkyActiv Engine) Mazda’s automatic models equipped with SkyActiv technology are tuned for peak efficiency. The automatic version can hit approximately 31 MPG combined, whereas the manual version may achieve around 29 MPG combined, depending on the configuration. Hyundai Elantra (2.0L and Hybrid Models) The standard automatic Elantra with the Smartstream CVT often boasts higher fuel efficiency compared to its manual counterpart. For instance, automatics can achieve 35-37 MPG combined, while manuals might hover slightly lower. The hybrid automatic models perform exceptionally, offering up to 50 MPG combined. Ford Fiesta (1.0L EcoBoost Engine) While the manual transmission is engaging, the automatic version equipped with Ford’s dual-clutch system can surpass it slightly in fuel efficiency. Automatics may achieve around 37 MPG combined, with the manual trailing by 1-2 MPG. Volkswagen Golf (1.5L TSI Engine) Volkswagen’s DSG automatic transmission often outperforms the manual in efficiency. A Golf with the DSG automatic might reach 40 MPG highway, while the manual version remains a few MPG behind.

[@rupedog]

TOTALLY False re air con temp. Air con is either on or off and ALWAYS cools air to the lowest it can, but if u set a temp higher than min, all it does is add warm air from heater matrix back into to the cool air to re-warm it!! So a Lower temp doesn't put any more load on the aircon system, but not having it on min but it switch on, means u are wasting fuel if u don't need it cooled

[@scottdyke7853]

BULLSHIT BULLSHIT BULLSHIT!! This guy is telling you lies. A typical EV with a 59kwh battery will cost £14.75 to charge overnight for 220 to 250 miles range. Compare this to a German 2.0 TDi that does 600 miles for £70 fuel (£1,34 litre) for £70 of electricity you'll do around 900 miles. I had a German 2.0TDi, I now have an EV my numbers are real numbers, not fished out of some anti EV website. Public chargers are more expensive, however if you are home charging and doing less than 220 miles per day, you won't be using the public charging network. To put 200 miles per day, 5 day weeks into context that's 46,000 miles/year (less public .holidays and annual leave). Home charging you'll be ahead of the game on fuel costs alone, before shelling out £600 year on servicing (DMF and Cam belts excluded).

[@torquecars]

lol - I really think you need to clarify yourself here because you've called BS and then pretty much restated exactly what I said in the video - unless I'm missing something? I specifically say that home charging is cheaper (this will depend on your tariff and the country you live in to a small degree) and I say that if you rely on the public charge network the cost can prove to be more than convention fuels. I know many drivers who cover in excess of 200 miles, not every day but at least once a week. I personally don't think EV's are suitable for high mileage drivers but each must do their research and run the numbers to come up with an answer.

[@scottdyke7853]

@@torquecars "Another fuel economy myth -electric cars are cheaper" Your words, your headline. Like I said bulshit.

[@LordAsney]

Another EV poof that conveniently leaves out the purchase cost. I could fuel my TDI for 20 years for the cost of a new EV.

[@scottdyke7853]

@@LordAsney Do the maths, for the cost of an equivalent new EV against a new TDi you'd be £1200/year better off on standard tariff (15000miles/year) add to that reduced cost of servicing (no oils, filters, DMF) reduced brake and tyre wear) tots up to £2000 year saving, you can pick up a used Leaf with 15k for around £15k 5k trade in for your old diesel you'll break even in 5 years.

[@hamishlovesit4731]

EGRs and DPFs love to give you crap fuel economy 😂 ... Engineering department here ... Motor industry crapmess and ridiculous compliance that does nothing but make your vehicles unreliable and expensive to fix

[@ALIENdrifter66]

You're right, but all that crap comes from the political side

[@18_rabbit]

@@ALIENdrifter66 yeah for good reasons too of clean air. I love it after growing up in the '70's and 80's with horrible air in the USofA

[@ALIENdrifter66]

@@18_rabbit There are multiple ways to achieve better air quality. It's better to have vehicles that are a little less complicated, that polute a little bit more, but much less than older vehicles. Simpler vehicles means less expensive. Why is that?. Well, very simple, the more expensive you make vehicles by law, the less new and more efficient vehicles there will be on the road. People won't have money to upgrade or they will not want to upgrade due to the decrease in reliability and the associated expense, thus older generation vehicles will be kept on the road as main vehicles and you'll end up with more polution instead of decreasing it naturally with normal tech evolution. This is very similar to what happens in poorer countries, they keep the same stuff for years and years, using less efficient vehicles and machines in general. A few European countries have already identified this effect, vehicle average age keeps increasing because people can't upgrade. If preatty much all the vehicles were Euro 5 instead of Non-Euro anything to Euro 6, pollution levels would be much lower.

[@Giorg189]

The best fuel saving tip is to not drive 😅

[@TheGrimReaper1]

@@Giorg189 yes its funny that you should say that. I save gallons of fuel by getting the bus to the next town. I actually enjoy being chauffeured about and not having to find somewhere to park, and having to pay for the privilege . I normally use the super diesel because of my low mileage and just one or two bus trips brings down the price back to the normal stuff, or even cheaper. It makes me very happy the money i save.

[@llikllaswejeht9386]

Stop talking about ev this is a man channel not gays who drive ev sht

[@kjbirby]

Please use 'tyres', not 'tires'!

[@ldmtag]

First😮