Toyota 22RE AFM Air Flow Meter opening, cleaning, adjustment and troubleshooting.

[@enginesandespresso2752]

Wonderful video! Before watching this video the AFM seemed daunting to me, but now seeing your video it shows me how it works, its rather quite logical & straightforward to tackle a repair.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Glad my video could help. I almost want to redo the video because there are some mistakes and my understanding of how these work is quite a bit better. Anyways, key point is don’t adjust them too much unless they are totally out of adjustment. The ECU will compensate for them being out to a certain degree and once the engine is closed loop it’s not really having affect. Out of closed loop, yes it has some affect. But if you go too rich your engine will be less responsive at lower RPM. My advice is go just lean enough to keep low end response and that should be where you want it. Closed loop idle will be a little rougher than you want or can get by mistakingly setting this too rich. If it’s too far rich the engine will not go closed loop and should throw a CEL. Too lean I believe should do the same thing. Good luck! I can try to answer more questions if you have them.

[@ColonCrusher]

If you do remake such a video, please show us your cleaning process. I know I’m gonna have to tackle this job in the near future.

[@CLMiddlekoop]

Just watched your video on AFM and I believe that's where my problem is. Going to do some cleaning and if necessary small adjustments. Thank you so much.👍

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Glad to hear it! Good luck, I hope you get it sorted out. 🍻

[@danreynolds8028]

Great job Dustin! Absolutely killer explanation and no BS music. Liked and subscribed!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Thank you!

[@DirtyDangleDaryl]

Came here looking for a solution to a sticky flap, too tight causes misfiring, little looser is perfect but the flap sticks open and keeps the fuel pumping . But i learned something else 😅 great video, thank you

[@dustinhotaling3502]

haha good to hear. Yeah that makes perfect sense as you'd have more or less combustion air than the AFM is reporting. Glad you liked the video!

[@naushadnizamudien3449]

For sticky flap, open the rear cover and clean up. Usualy aluminium oxidate and make the flap counter weight stick to the body, especially the areas where clearance is minimal. Use a smooth sand paper and polish, clean with throttle body cleaner, a drop of light oil on the spindle. It works. I fixed my bmw airflow meter last week.

[@davidsonthomas9084]

P​@@naushadnizamudien3449

[@samspade8612]

Nice tip on the vacuum tubing & ohm meter leads. Good video!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Thanks for watching!

[@jb-ik8sj]

My 91 was out of range so I did just what you did. Only I completely disassembled mine because the door was getting stuck. To fix that I removed the 12 M3 x .5 screws on the bottom plate. The plate had some arc scratches from a piece of sand or whatever. So I spent 3 hours rubbing those out with 2000 grit sand paper. Wet. Ultimately I just used 80 grit on a 4 1/2" grinder after wasting half my afternoon with the 2000 grit idea. (Bad idea). After removing the damn plate 4 more times and hitting it with the grinder, it finally opens and closes freely. Waste a whole day on a frickin scratch. So now it ohms out and I'm going to put it on now. If I had a job I would just buy these damn things when the go bad. But God they are expensive

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Wow glad you got it working freely! Yeah they’re expensive and you don’t really know what you’re getting until you can test it out yourself!

[@TheEZGZ]

Thank You so Much! Have a 93 and just did a timing chain upgrade to double row. Noticed a misfire. Didn't know what to look for. Excellent vid. Very helpful!!!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Awesome! Did the AFM outputs end up being the cause of the misfire?

[@bermbuster6]

Good job made a big difference on my truck

[@thomaseubank8199]

Thank you very much. My Toyota 85 loads up really bad and runs real rich,when I'm idling around and not much power. It's a 22re motor also.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

You're welcome!

[@davidcarolynharrelson2696]

Thanks so much for this excellent information. My problem may be the contacts for the fuel pump switch and now I know how to clean them. Great job!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Glad to hear it! Thanks!

[@iowabuckinrut760]

Wow!!! Thank you! Before I was getting 14 mpg 235 miles a tank. Checked my afm and between the contacts I had 2,000 ohms!!! I did your problem fix and now I'm at 180 ohms =). Thank you so much!!!!

[@iowabuckinrut760]

Very excited to start it up and check mileage

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Awesome, yeah let me know how it goes. I assume you found the page on 4crawler about fully testing it? If not here it is: www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

[@iowabuckinrut760]

Yes thank you. Your video and that page are a recipe for success!

[@allanyoung9603]

Very good explanation my land cruiser is doing that rough idle right now

[@Roboticgladiator]

The 'opens' on the meter is from the multimeter changing ranges.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Well in the video you can see it switch ranges down without going OL in between so I don’t think so. Goes from K ohms to ohms. Coincidentally there was a spot near where it wants to switch ranges. I should have turned off auto range. I did this before cleaning the track and points and it went OL a lot more and if I held the arm in the exact spot it would stay OL. Anyway, the real proof was how perfectly the engine ran after doing this. Before it would stutter and run rough but only at certain RPM, which corresponds to vane position.

[@joshjlmgproductions3313]

This actually helped me with my Chevrolet Sprint Turbo. Thanks.

[@black_metal_luvr]

Thank you very much for this detailed inspection. It helped me to determine that mine is way off, getting 0.18 resistance on all 3 resistance checks.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Thanks for the comment! Glad my video could help. Best of luck getting a good replacement. Seems like it’s starting to get a little tricky!

[@black_metal_luvr]

@@dustinhotaling3502 thanks, friend. I've ordered a new one from Amazon, they're getting hard to find. I've a '94, so it's a bit different style but similar enough. I do prefer the previous gen's AFM style, it looks to be more durable, as the next gen has a delicate copper brush that sweeps across the contact runway and is very easy to break or bend, so I'll be exploring other options down the road. I've heard of swapping a Supra AFM in, so I'll be exploring that avenue sometime.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

@@black_metal_luvr ahhh ok. I think that one is easier to find. I haven’t seen the inside of that one. I know with the Supra swap you have to swap the electronics anyway.. and pretty sure it only works with the older style like mine. BTW the reason my reman unit had the different part number was because it must have been a plastic cap from the larger Supra version. The caps were the same but the rest of it was bigger to have a larger vane and 3” port. Cardone must have swapped them inadvertently.

[@black_metal_luvr]

@@dustinhotaling3502 maybe something they're aware of and did an improvement.

[@sidneysirany]

thanks so much for this video! exactly this is what happened to me. i bought a remanufactured one and still didn’t work on my 85 Celica GTS 22RE engine

[@Parakalamos1]

Excellent video!! Thank you for taking the time to help us. I have a 1985 Toyota Supra that is giving me hard time starting and when it does, it runs rich for a few minutes and then dies if I press the gas pedal hard. I opened it up and tested as you did. Sometimes I get perfect results and a few minutes later, the numbers change out of range!!!! If I remove the screw, will the spring unwind?

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Thanks for watching! Sounds like the AFM could definitely be the issue. Yes if you completely remove the screw the spring wire will come off the cog and it can unwind. Only loosen the screw which allows the cog to turn, but only when the part that engages the teeth is bent out of the way. Mark the cog where that piece engages with something so you can keep track of where you started. The EFI computer will automatically adjust for the cog wheel being out of position based on O2 readings at idle, but the change in spring tension will make the engine respond to throttle/airflow at load differently. Hopefully that makes sense. When you’re done and ready to seal up the AFM, make sure it is very dry in there. Hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer lightly to get any moisture out. I may re-open mine and do that and put a small desiccant pack in there somewhere. Mine seems to behave differently based on whether the engine bay is warm or cold so I suspect that’s the issue. Good luck, I hope you get your issue sorted!

[@ramiram84]

Thx man this helped me on my 91 xr2 as well

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Glad to hear it!

[@JacklapottTv]

Excellent vidéo, im thinking About replacing that carbon track with a hall effect sensor and a microcontroller to emulate the readed value

[@dustinhotaling3502]

That is really interesting.. if you could do it successfully and make some sort of kit to do it I bet you could make some decent $$ selling them. Hard to find good OE AFMs like this and the refurb ones are not necessarily good as I found out! Another way to get rid of the AFM completely is to modify your setup to a Mega-Squirt EFI computer. You can DIY it with a kit or get DIYautotune to build one for you out of your old ECU and just plug and play. Requires a vac line to the manifold to get the pressure which is uses instead of an AFM or MAF.. I want to do this swap on my 22RE because it’s a much more capable ECU and highly tunable. I think with a proper tune much better MPG is possible. Thinking especially in the case of a motorhome which we have. The stock ECU wasn’t designed for the constant heavy load of an RV and I’m guessing isn’t really tuned appropriately. I’d be interested to know what you can figure out!

[@Parakalamos1]

Thank you for the prompt response. Before I do anything, I want to make sure that we are talking about the same screw/bolt. I am talking about the 3mm bolt as you discussed in your video, not the screw holding the spring that stops the wheel from turning. Is it safe to remove the 3mm bolt to clean the brass contacts? I checked the AMF again a few minutes ago and everything was testing good until I got to the E2-Vs test. At fully closed position I got 280 ohms and no change - fully closed to fully open position. A minute later I tested it again and got 318 ohms at fully closed position and anywhere from 318 ohms to 640 ohms while opening it and 70 ohms at fully open position. Is this normal? I will test it again tomorrow morning, install it and see what the engine does. This is driving me crazy. I also bought a used unit from Ebay but it will not arrive until mid November. Thanks again and sorry to bother you with my problem.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Oh yeah that bolt is fine to remove, it only holds the arm onto the shaft. The first measurement you took is strange that it didn’t change.. are you sure you were on the right pins? The second one sounds good as long as there were not bad spots that went open line or out of range.. though it shouldn’t go to 70 at the end. It’s been a long time since I tested one so it might be worth checking out the link I put in the description regarding that. 🍻

[@juancamaney3562]

Great awesome video, Thank you so much sir 🙏🏽👍

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Welcome!

[@ZOne-OffGarage]

@Dustin Hotaling Thank you so much for this video! You found my problem! I was having the exact same issue and spent hours trouble shooting everything possible and they all checked out fine. Great video!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Awesome! Glad my video could help!

[@juancamaney3562]

Great awesome video. I used a microfiber towel with some rubbing alcohol to clean my AFM and get a reading of 80 ohm but when I push the vain door in , there is know more reading on my voltmeter. Should throw it away and buy a new ?🤔

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Sounds like your ohm meter is going to OL (open loop)? If so, yeah that’s not a good sign. The tracks may be worn beyond what a cleaning is going to do. Possibly try cleaning again with electrical contact cleaner and polish the contacts on the bottom of the armature.. Unfortunately you may have to look into another unit.

[@juancamaney3562]

@@dustinhotaling3502 Thank you for responding right away. I clean it three times and still same problem. Thank anyway 🙏🏽

[@polystictus]

Nice video...still not clear on how to set/use the meter for testing the AFM. I actually have a 3.0 engine and am having extremely bad gas mileage yet it passed smog with "perfect numbers" I was told. Runs fairly well when warm. Does not give out black exhaust or have a gas smell. 1995 4Runner has 205,000 miles on it and original oxygen sensors as well.

[@poivre22]

Great video, Dustin. I recently tested a 22250-35020 on my '87 pickup and experienced the same non-linear anomalies (and even a dropout) in resistance that you were seeing. However, my truck runs fine. I plugged in the harness, and with the cover off, I instead took voltage measurements off of Vs to GND, and I got a nice clean and linear 2.76V to 7.36V across the sweep with no dropouts. VS is what the A/D in the ECU uses. I figured the multimeter wasn't supplying enough test voltage for the ohm reading to jive well with the laser cut resistor. I deal with electronics a lot and I have seen this phenomenon before with variable resistors, albeit fairly rare. I would say your original AFM is fine, but if your truck is running better with the reman, I guess that's not necessarily the case. How did you know the Supra version was compatible with the pickup? Thanks!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

That’s very interesting! I did figure that might be the case but by cleaning the reman and the original “just right” I got them to the point of perfect on the multimeter so they must be passing good voltage/signal quality to the ECU. Probably overkill, but after cleaning the reman and adjusting it (possibly only needed adjustment because I twisted the armature a bit from its original mounting position) the engine runs flawless at all speeds and throttle position. Fine tuning of it and the idle air screw and it’s starting/idling easy and no hesitation on a quick throttle blip. A little leaner might be ok but I have some experimenting to do. Trying to get max MPG since this engine is in our Toyota Sun Land Express motor home! As far as the Supra thing I just cross referenced the Cardone part and it had both vehicles listed I believe. I’d have to go digging to find that bit of info. I believe there’s another Supra AFM that has a wider port/door that you can mod with the electronics of this one and get to work.. but that’s not needed in my case! Really appreciate the feedback and info!

[@poivre22]

@@dustinhotaling3502 Thanks for the reply! I am wanting to get a spare 22250-35020, but reman ones are getting very hard to find, and they cost a bunch. If you got yours working great with the 22250-43110, I think I will go that route because they seem easier to find. Where did you buy yours from? I assume you had to adjust the spring tension and lean it out because the Supra's had inline 6's I think. Good stuff!

[@dustinhotaling3502]

@@poivre22 So that part should def work I’d say. I ordered my Cardone 74-20004 from an Amazon seller, I see they’re out of stock now. I see a couple of them searching on google. So.. not the Supra that you’re thinking of.. Look up Celica Supra or Celica GTS, where the 22RE was the default engine if not an option I believe. I’m sure the 6cyl AFM is different. I think it’s just an earlier version of the 35020 part. The only differences are the idle air screws.. the reman had the screw under that plastic plug. My original has the aluminum plug that you can drill out to get to the screw. Also inside in one of the corners my original has a small spring mechanism that I think maybe helps keep the door from closing all the way. The reman has the place to mount this part so I swapped it over. Not sure if it’s really necessary to be honest. I debated between a used one on eBay but one that looked decent and reputable seller was about $200. I was able to snag the reman for $175. Still not sure if the electronics inside were replaced though.. honestly the strip looked as grooved as my original. The original only had 93000 miles on it though. I think a previous owner just mucked it up inside trying their hand at adjusting it, and it was finally producing crappy enough signals for me to notice the engine issues that shouldn’t be expected with a freshly rebuilt engine! Here are some resources I’ve found about adjusting and everything lines up well with my experience: www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=290.0 www.celica-gts.com/resources/how-to/afm_adjustment.html

[@poivre22]

@@dustinhotaling3502 The OEM part number on your 74-20004 is 22250-43110, which is for a 1982 Celica Supra with the inline 6. If I look up that car on the Cardone website, their part number is 74-20028. Interestingly, the photos of the 74-20004 and 74-20028 both show OEM 22250-43110. Moreover, the correct part number for an 84-88 pickup 22RE is 22250-35020. So, it is all very confusing. It is possible that the physical characteristics of these AFM's are the same, and they piece together the internals with different boards. So you could have a 43110 "case" with a 35020 board. Who knows. I am having a heck of a time figuring this out, so I will call Cardone tomorrow and see if they discontinued the one you have. Regarding the tracks, those are supposed to be there, as they were laser cut at the factory. And the "drop outs" are typical. Check out the "dynamic testing" section in the following URL: www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml Thanks! Bryan

[@dustinhotaling3502]

@@poivre22 The plot thickens. Interesting. Well the Cardone website specs the 74-20004 for a 1985 Pickup: www.cardone.com/product/mass-air-flow-sensor-74-20004 But maybe mine just came back with a lid for the bigger Supra model AGM? Just a weird coincidence because it has the same cover size/shape and they mixed them up with a Supra 5MGE unit! Dang, this video needs some editing 😬. Hopefully people will find their way to this comment thread. Thanks for helping clear that up for me. I knew I read somewhere that it was the right part for my truck ;)

[@DanielAlvarez-xl4qy]

Omg bro thanks for this info i had to mess with the air flow sensor on my 95 4runner n it smelled too mcih gas on the muffler so i turn left n it smells way less it runs a lil better before it ran too much gas it would exelerate n i turn right on the part n it runs a lil better but i got to mess with it more till i get my new mass air sensor in the mail🙏

[@findyourself7323]

❤thanks, I am from Vietnam, my car previa has problems in this maf,

[@LNSKPRODUCTIONS]

Would the SensorKleen Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner, Aerosol Can work fine instead of the denatured alcohol or contact cleaner for the cleaning of the board under the arm ?

[@dustinhotaling3502]

I couldn’t say for sure.. I know you can get away with contact cleaner on a MAF but MAF cleaner on a circuit board may be asking for issues! Depends how harsh it is and if it leaves any residue. Probably not worth the risk ;)

[@martyisabeliever]

Deoxit on resistor trace/contacts and red rubber eraser on contacts.

[@michaelcorcoran1011]

Great work! Will use this knowledge 🤙🤙🤙

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Thanks! Glad it could be of use. I may have to make another video about getting this reman unit dialed in. Runs so nice now. Good luck with yours and send a message if you have a question. Cheers.

[@Samson-EC]

Thks for the great video. At least I know how to open it now. ..jc

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Glad to hear it!

[@KvnPtrJhnsn]

Great video! Learned a lot.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Thanks! Great to hear.

[@billythomas4527]

Does those results looks ok-ish ? "On vehicle inspection:" E2 - Vs .187 E2 - Vc 180.4 E2 - Vb .280 E2 - THA 2.09 ( At 20 °C ) "Inspection of Air Flow Meter" E1 - Fc Fully Closed 0.L E1 - Fc Other Than Closed Position 00.0 E2 - Vs fully closed 169.3 E2 - Vs Fully closed to fully open position; Went from closed 168.5 to fully open .271 ? Why am I only getting .271 in fully opened ?

[@dustinhotaling3502]

It’s been quite a while since I’ve gotten into this so I couldn’t tell you without studying it again myself.. but check out the 4crawler link in the video description, it will walk you through testing and what numbers you should see.

[@jacob-zs9wc]

I'm getting 100 ohms closed and 290 max as I turn it. What are specs when you open it up? Pls

[@DavidSalazar-vp3pz]

Im trying to find a replacement for part# 22250-16110 from a 4a-ge 20v

[@Torch4ya]

I have a 1985 and want to do the same. How did you fit it, and how does it perform?

[@uaporin]

you should have shown the response, resistance or continuity of the other afm.

[@filoIII]

Can I spray the innerds w/ MAF cleaner???

[@dustinhotaling3502]

You may get away with that but I would use electrical contact cleaner just to be safe.

[@j.a.mcbean.4043]

Thanks

[@stormrunnerx]

With fluke meters I've seen issues with erratic opens when meter is auto ranging. If you can over ride auto range to the highest unit you expect to see @ xkohm.1 for instance this could effect the appearance of opens in your sweep. I have two flukes an 87 and 89 both do this especially auto ranging about 1/2 way through the first then next range etcetera.

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Good to know, thanks!

[@viciousme90]

Do the 22re s use AFM or the MAF or are they basically the same

[@dustinhotaling3502]

Sorry for the delay. It’s an AFM. A MAF sensor works very differently.

[@Natureboy562]

Does this apply for the 3VZ-E

[@dustinhotaling3502]

From what I can tell, yes! I don’t have first hand experience, though.. They are not the same AFM but they are very similar and the adjustment inside should be the same.

[@sidneysirany]

if u haven’t sold the one u fixed. i’ll buy it from u

[@dustinhotaling3502]

I’m still hanging onto it just in case for now. Considering doing a mega squirt EFI conversion which would delete the AFM essentially.. I’d consider selling one at that point. Not sure when I’d get to it though, sorry!