Toyota Camry Cold Start Noise Oil Experiment: Mobil 1 Vs Royal Purple, Can Switching Oil Help?

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Here we have a 2010 Camry 2.5 liter model that has recently been hit with the infamous Toyota "cold start engine rattle" (T-SB-0041-13 details linked below). This is a side-by-side comparison of the factory oil vs better oil to see if it can reduce the effects of this very annoying problem. The "cold start" rattle is a well known annoyance among many Toyota owners, but should not cause any long term damage to the engine.
The oil featured in this video is Mobil 1 0w20 (factory) and Royal Purple 5w20 (non factory). These are both fully synthetic oils with a very similar viscosity. Both tests are performed using a factory Toyota OEM oil filter.
Reference Toyota T-SB-0041-13 (pdf below).
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***UPDATE: The car has since been sold and never experienced any mechanical problems due to this loud annoying noise (drove for many years with it). Thanks for everyone who has provided suggestions for fixing it.

[@ThingsHumansDo]

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[@BOSS-xy8op]

I have the same engine in my 2010 Toyota Camry 6 speed manual. I have over 205,000 miles on my car and I don't have this rattle. I use AMSOIL XL 0w20 oil and a TRD Oil filter. Change my every oil every 10,000 miles no problem and oil is still in good shape after 10,000 miles according to Blackstone Lab results. But I also get all my mileage driving on interstate/Hwy driving.

[@legalsan3913]

Your timing chain tensioner is bleeding off trapped oil pressure when the engine is off. This eases timing chain tension when cold, causing a minor chain slap on start up. This issue, while annoying, usually doesn't cause further problems. My advice is to try 5w-30 oil. I think you will be very happy wit the results.

[@chbobby8382]

I have a 2014 Camry that does this and I use 0W 20 I have 160k miles should I switch to 5W 30?

[@winvineeshvarghese]

I have same issue but when I change to synthetic no sound..

[@SanProsan1993]

One answer for you: Castrol Magnatec 0w20/5w20/5w30. Try it and I guarantee you won't switch to anything else afterwards.

[@tenzackyogi1742]

If you're driving in hot climate zone, try 5w20. And if you're driving in cold climate zone, always use 0W20. Thats my 5 cents advice from me.

[@trplpwr1038]

That's three cents more than everyone else. Go Yogi

[@rickuyeda4818]

The VVT system cam bleed oil back into the pan. They make a Pre-Lube Kit to prevent the rattle.

[@doctorwhodj]

Dry cam phaser Rattle is harmless. But royal is better oil than mobil 1

[@billyjack7421]

Try blending 50% - 0w20 with 50% - 5w30, use same brand, might be a perfect combination, and may keep it a bit quieter, use at your discretion though.

[@raymathews7035]

I use Royal Purple 0-20wt.

[@rondhole]

Nothing works besides life goes on. Split of seconds rattle from timing chain tensioner building up pressure from cold start is normal in many cars with timing chain. Honda, Nissan, Toyota have similar problems for years without any issues. In BMW and VW, it becomes serious issue because the rattle was constant and comes from timing chain guides not oil pressure.

[@stevensevek6151]

Have you tried adjusting the valves?

[@raymathews7035]

Valve are self adjusting.

[@anthonytirado2753]

That was a waste of money and time you have to change the crankshaft and timing chain stop that noise

[@9ZERO6]

Yeah, he should change the crankshaft lol. Ok.

[@antoniogm6241]

I have an 09 Rav4 with the 2.5L engine and so far it has made that exact noise for about 4 years. Got the timing chain and tensioners replaced a few months ago but it is making the same noise. In my country Toyota does not recognize de TSB issued for the US that covers this problem. The only way I got rid of the noise for a few months was using oil for high mileage vehicles (151,377mi) and the rattle was gone. Now it is making the same noise again (2 months after). AFAIK is something related with the VVT-i gears that needs to be replaced but most dealerships are charging around $2K to fix it.

[@ThingsHumansDo]

Same here in the USA, Toyota wants about $2,000 to fix this issue. I believe the cause is a cam gear not properly locking into place, so when you start the car it rattles until the oil pressure builds up. I have heard this issue will not affect long term life of the engine, so no plans to repair at that price.

[@anthonyg6014]

@@ThingsHumansDo Its actually a small actuator in the VVT-i system... and you are right, it is not worth replacing. People run their cars 100,000s of miles without it doing damage! I heard horror stories where people fixed it for 2k and it came back a month later... must be something with the design... still reliable though

[@tomasnokechtesledger1786]

Not oil problem, but pumping problem. Maybe another filter could help.

[@clbak036]

Wow. Are you still running the same oil? How it running? Think I might make the switch...

[@ThingsHumansDo]

Still running the same oil and it's running great. I'm confident this one will last forever regardless of the annoying noise, but I plan on sticking with the Toyota V6 from here on out... less quirks!

[@chbobby8382]

Quick question will 0W 20 royal purple work? I don’t want to switch the viscosity. I have a 2014 Camry which recommends 0W 20

[@ThingsHumansDo]

@@chbobby8382 sure, really any brand will be fine as long as you're using the same Toyota recommended oil type.

[@redzeroiceman9297]

slight improvements try castrol or something good priced

[@HotBoiRicer]

You’ve never bought Royal Purple before have you😅 “Something Good Priced”

[@redzeroiceman9297]

@@HotBoiRicer that trash purple is gimmic or to be scientifically correct synthetic like the other oils

[@Sproutt]

How cold is it when you made the test btw

[@q-bert6454]

John Smith -84F

[@ThingsHumansDo]

Mid 70's F outside temperature

[@tbvv6729]

This is a design flaw on the Toyota’s 2.5 l engine that is more annoying than anything else. My son’s 2011 Scion TC bought used with 160K does this every morning after sitting over night. It still runs fine. My 2013 RAV4 bought new with 28K miles now is starting to do it and I am anal about changing the synthetic oil on it every 4 K miles or less because this vehicle is not driven often. If you can live with the start up annoying noise that last under 3 seconds or less, it’s not a problem. My understanding is the cam gear not locking into place when the vehicle is shut off. This noise happens if you park the car overnight or have it sit several days between start ups. If our 2011 TC runs fine after 166K, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. I would stick with the correct weight oil 0w20 recommended for the motor by Toyota and regular oil change interval.

[@SCOOPFREE]

No real difference and the intake cam gear is pooched. Time for a new one not different oil. BTW, Royal Purple is horrible oil.

[@kylevaporwave51]

Sounds bad ether way after the raddle idk wtf going on sounds like a plane

[@arthursmith643]

Trade it in and get another car

[@kruno45]

Of course it's a different oil weight lol, use the same viscosity to compare.

[@ThingsHumansDo]

This test was primarily for viscosity... I just happen to prefer RP.

[@SCOOPFREE]

That motor takes 0-20 not 5-20.

[@9ZERO6]

VVTI actuator. Replace it. Move on.

[@Canadian789119]

10 dislikes are mobil 1 fanboys.

[@steve0680657]

Mobil 1 sounds better

[@JayzBeerz]

still sounds like shit with both oils

[@9ZERO6]

The oil is not the issue. That is the VVTI actuator. A known issue on this engine. You can put 20w50 in it and it will still rattle.

[@DrivinginNewYorkCityNYC]

You need Amsoil.

[@anthonyg6014]

I had the same problem in my lexus with 0w20... I switched back to 5w30 and it doesn't do it as often (maybe once every 15 starts) Weird... you would think a lighter oil would travel to the dual overhead cams faster... maybe it does but it is just too thin... who knows, I'm sticking with the 5w30

[@ramadaodessa3229]

hello mr.turner i have a Same issue in my car so i want to change oil in my car but how much quantity for fully synthetic oil can u give me reply please.

[@flifishun7]

5w20 or 5w30? Maybe you mean 5w20 because a lot of Toyota engines can run both 0w20 or 5w20.

[@HotBoiRicer]

Gianni Green eyes You’re not wrong, however running 0W-30 in a 0W-20 wont affect fuel efficiency as much as it would affect engine performance. Most engine tolerances today are rated extremely low, usually below 0.010. Running a thicker oil will also increase oil pressure and can cause more stress on components. Sure it may fix valve tick or rattles, but it mah lead to less effective lubrication on your components.

[@HotBoiRicer]

Gianni Green eyes So you are telling me, you can run a thicker oil through thinner clearances and nothing mechanically will fail. An engine designed to run 0W-20 can run 0W-30 and be okay? Or vice versa? You’re essentially saying Oil is there for fuel efficiency and not lubricate the parts. It would be ignorant to say running another viscosity of oil won’t affect engine performance just fuel economy. I’ll do you one better, what does the W in oil ratings stand for? For instance “0W-20” what does “W” represent or mean.

[@HotBoiRicer]

Gianni Green eyes Sheeesh someone loves google and attention. Believe it or Not I’m essential so I still have a job. My apologies for not giving ya attention but you still answered what W stood for and nothing else I asked?