WALMART Oil Showdown: Myth Busting Results!

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks again for all the comments, likes and for watching. It's amazing to see how many people are truly interested in my favorite topic - Tribology! For more on the new ring coating, check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goLEapKpibZmebs

[@victormackenzie-davis2711]

NEO OIL have you ever done any testing on there products? years ago in my race car [off road] I would beat to the copper the upper side? of the rod bearings in 600 miles running at 8,000 rpm on conventional oil, I tried different compounds etc. the engineer I worked with at Nissan suggested mobile one it got better. Don't recall who introduced me to Paul Baker Sr, Neo oils/Baker bearing, Paul said he would blend me oil after a couple test runs the wear problem was completely gone we then did trans and rear end and as long as we kept the temps down back then around 300 degrees every thing lived. Now watching your videos I realize the importance in competitive motorsports that blending you own oil could be very beneficial being able to address specific wear patterns for an application. Drag Racing "methanol" in one pass your oil looks like a milkshake how damaged is it? how does the methanol effect the integrity of the oil? or does it? have you ever addressed this issue? Just a couple of curious thoughts.

[@sbsb4995]

I will be blunt. You talked too much. You ought to be straight to the point. Your video although is informative, but they are too long and too boring. Best of luck.

[@Horus2Osiris]

Great information. Wow. Details...❤

[@joesmith7377]

4:30 So your results of testing "20W-50 vs 5W-20: Which Oil Protects Better?" are invalid as I mentioned in comments under that video. You did not double flush. That caused cross-contamination of oils.

[@Boneyard1]

@@sbsb4995 .....here's your fish, don't let the door hit you on the way out.

[@pman3226]

At 54 years old I now know I should have chosen to be an oil geek for my career. Love this stuff. Thanks, Lake!

[@mikefisc9989]

I feel the same way. I missed my true calling in life...lol.

[@themotoroilgeek]

LOL, Thanks!

[@D2O2]

Never too late as long you are still alive.

[@caesarflickerman7047]

Getting paid to regurgitate marketing material does sound like a comfy gig 😅

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

​@@D2O28 like yr thinking

[@classicrider103]

Glad to see this test with the super tech, I have been using the ST full synthetic in my 95 Silverado since it had 50k miles. It now has 258k and runs great.

[@magichatake]

please, at what's was your oil change interval on these 200k miles? every 5 or 10k miles?

[@chadchadchadchadchad]

​@@magichatakeI've got 285k on 2000 Silverado. Avg oil change 5000 miles with cheap full synthetic.

[@magichatake]

@@chadchadchadchadchad thanks mate. 5k miles is around 8000km in Brazil and I change my oil around the same

[@classicrider103]

@@magichatake during the summer I pull a trailer with commercial size lawnmowers. I change oil and filter around 6000 miles, during the winter while not pulling anything I have gone as many as 7000. I also use the Super Tech full synthetic in my wife's 2013 Hyundai that she drives back and forth to work, it now has around 138000 miles. But in her traverse I use Pennzoil ultra full synthetic

[@drumermp]

Sir in a 90’s Chevy you could run vegetable oil and it would go quarter million 😂

[@edwardberwind8544]

I have used Supertech full synthetic on my 2011, 2015, 2018, 2020, and now on my 2024 Mustang GT. I change the oil every 4000 miles along with an original Ford FL-500-S oil filter. I have never had any problems on any of my cars. Did I mention I do all my own oil changes and I'll be 81 years old in September. Bottom line you can't beat Supertech full synthetic. The secret to this whole scenario is to change your oil on a regular basis.

[@bud613]

Yes, sir. The best oil is clean oil. And if it's less expensive, even better.

[@hargrove_here]

I hope I'm changing my own oil at 81. Happy early birthday.

[@eduardohernandez2046]

Interesting, did that help with the typewriter noise at idle on your 24 GT mustang?, mine started to do it around 1k to 1.3k miles, also thanks for the info ill prob check that oil next

[@edwardberwind8544]

@@eduardohernandez2046 The only GT that developed the tick was my first one the 2011GT. As a side note I only use the 10,000 mile full synthetic Super Tech oil. I usually turn my cars over about every three years. This way everything is brand new and things are not wearing out as I don't put hundreds of thousands of miles on her.

[@jaysoncheney]

It's made from the same refinery as mobile

[@johnb7379]

I could listen to a hundred other people try to explain this stuff to me and I would either be so bored it would all go over my head or stop the video early and watch something else. This guy not only know his stuff but also has a way of presenting it so anyone can understand him. Who knew the science of motor oils could be so interesting.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thank you!

[@joecummings1260]

I'm in my 60's and never worried about getting too specific about oils other than it meeting the equipment manufacturers specifications. I always took care of fleets of trucks and equipment, and my biggest battles were getting the operators to check the oil, getting the oil changes done on time, and getting the rest of the truck or equipment lubed for real, meaning that if a lube point didn't take grease, you have to do something to fix it and make it take grease. I've seen far more equipment destroyed over some piddly little oil leak, of mechanics skipping zerk fittings, than I've ever seen from motor oil choices. I don't care what great wonderful fantastic oil or grease you use, it isn't worth a damn if it's not where it's needed. Don't get me wrong, I love your videos. I just think way too many mechanics especially younger ones get lost in the details when the first battle is to keep it wet and slippery with something

[@mxtuner3351]

That's the basis for most of my work. I work on dirt bikes and 80% is greasing things that didn't get greased when they should have and replacing the damaged bearings from being run dry. Its all so preventable with a little well documented servicing just as the manufacturers recommended

[@Billy97ify]

Totally agree. Equipment doesn't fail if you follow that.

[@FragEightyfive]

This falls in line with what I have heard and read from engine designers, engineers and manufacturers. In most engines and equipment, its no so much the brand assuming it meets the design spec, but the interval. You're better off changing your oil every 3k miles with the cheapest oil, than every 10 with the 'best'. In most cases you are throwing money away changing often with expensive oil. My own anecdotal evidence of a dozen vehicles I take care of over 20 years, just chang your oil on time with anything that meets the spec, and seeing 250k miles of engine still running great, not smoking, good fuel economy, before the salt on the roads east the chassis away.

[@ferndog1461]

Where did the oil pressure gauge go ? All we have now is CEL & only after the damage has been done.

[@AJWISE41]

Ive been using SuperTech synthetic oil for years. never had an issue.

[@stank991234]

I used to pull a semi tanker one of our drivers told me that he picked up a tanker load of oil from a refinery and stated that Walmart's oil came from the same spout as Pennzoil's liquid ball bearing oil. Most generic products are the exact product as name brand with different labeling, I've seen it first hand.

[@sprint48219]

just like gasoline it all comes out of the same tank but they push a button to add different additives which makes it a different product

[@I-sed-no]

Only difference is the marketing budgets of these brands

[@amazoidal]

Walmart SuperTech is from Warren Distributing. Same as Amazon Basics, Kirkland Full Synthetic, MAG1. I doubt it's from Pennzoil. Do you have proof?

[@gk5891]

WPP has blended the US SuperTech Pass Car Syn as long as WM has used that name. If ST Conventional uses the same bottle design as WPP it's the sane supplier. They make their own bottles. At one time WM used different suppliers in different regions for ST conventional. At one time the 5 qt was WPP here and the 1 Qt was Chevron. I don't remember if SOPUS was one of them. WPP buys base stock from most of the majors including Shell. The also blend product for the majors.

[@lenney872]

@@amazoidalsome is from pennzoil because the distribution number on the bottom of the supertech bottles is sometimes identical to pennzoil bottles.

[@thatrealba]

Been running ST High Mileage for probably over 100k miles in my V10 Excursion that has about 260k miles. 5k mile oil changes and Wix filters, and still kickin.

[@cyclesaviorn2700]

These modern oils are absolutely wonderful in these late 90s early 00s engines. Already great engines meet an even greater lubricant

[@commonsenseisdeadin2024]

Have you sent it out for oil analysis? Ford 2v engines have phenomenal oil life (one theory is because the block has so much surface area to wick heat and the heads are so spread apart the oil doesn't cook in these engines.) I maintained a fleet of Town Cars (all in all, well over 50) and we sold them at over 300k (besides ones that crashed and totaled) and did 10k intervals (usually 12k before I got to them, also they did a lot of idling) and the oil analysis always tested great. Even at 7500 would have saved you $200+. We also ran "wix" filters.... (Their commercial line, don't remember the name currently)

[@smiller225]

I used ST high mileage in a chevy cobalt for 280k miles it ran perfect and was clean under the valvecovers when i sold it

[@spanglish04]

⁠@@cyclesaviorn2700 Absolutely agree. I run the same stuff in my two 2003 Lexus ES300’s. 3.0L “1MZ-FE” V6.

[@workingguy-OU812]

My 2006 Chevy with 269k miles on it has always run on various normal diesel oils - whatever was laying around. A few oil changes may have been skipped. I'm the second owner, and I continue to run diesel oil in it.

[@gcaprice406]

Can’t get enough of Lake’s truly foaming-at-the-mouth passion for motor oil.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks!

[@Alvin-1138]

That's not foam, it's Molybdenum!!😂😂

[@magnumcipher4971]

Who would've thought a channel based solely on engine oil would become one of my favorites. Great content fellas. I love to watch myths as old as the internal combustion engine fall one by one.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thank you!

[@bobbywalter5320]

​@@themotoroilgeek no. thank you.

[@Riidher]

Lake, At 73 I have learned more about oil in an hour of watching your vids than I have learned in my entire life! After picking up my jaw off the floor, all I can say is, THANK YOU! I subscribed.

[@themotoroilgeek]

That is awesome!

[@GarySmith-up1un]

I was a mechanic. I've been clueless about oil.

[@Askin.u]

People better appreciate this man , he’s doing gods work! Love what you do for all of us oil geeks 🙌

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thank you!

[@chris2790]

Don't drag God into the mundane and crass. God is our creator and after mankind's rebellion, He made reconciliation possible through His only begotten Son, Jesus, who willingly shed His blood, taking in God's just wrath to cleans us of our sins, taking away our guilt, reconciling us to God who is then our heavenly Father. That is those that believe and trust Him. I know "doing God's work" is a saying that's been around and has come to be used outside its original intent, and no harm was intended. But what God has done is so meaningful, and so necessary, that we should not obscure that or dumb it down by misusing language and being careless when it comes to God.

[@rambleon2838]

​ @chris2790 Stop dragging religion further into science. This is Oil Geek Science not Bible Study. Both are not compatible and comparable or interchangeable and relatable.

[@dadefope80]

Project Farm did a similar test too!

[@DavidHansen-m2f]

​@@chris2790 idiot

[@mpalmer7484]

I am not a chemist and I don’t build motors, but I am an owner of automobiles. I find the information in Lake’s videos very interesting and helpful (at least the parts I can understand). Quite frankly, the chemistry information is mostly over my head, but as I watch more videos, it is starting to come together. Thank you for the videos!

[@themotoroilgeek]

Wow, thank you!

[@chrismcmullen4313]

21:10

[@jeffkearney7491]

Been using ST synthetic for many years and many miles, save many dollars. Change the oil and use a quality filter at 5000 miles and the engine will last longer than the car itself. Why spend crazy money on the high dollar oil when there is minimal gain. I think some people just want to say I use brand x or brand y to help with their ego. Thanks for taking the time to teach the world this valuable information.

[@themotoroilgeek]

You are welcome!

[@cyclesaviorn2700]

​@@themotoroilgeek can you please do tribotex additive if you havent already? Its a snake oil product that stays around and i swear i have people claiming it actually works

[@Weak_juan]

You are correct. Despite that, I still use PUP on my hemi even though it may only offer 1-3% better protection. For $10 more per change, I'm reducing the chance of lifter/cam failure that the hemi is known for. It's a $5000 repair vs extra $10 per oil change. I drive my truck hard and it tows quite frequently.

[@Weak_juan]

How about 6200mile oci?

[@petershulick5270]

Yes I have something I need to ask you and if you can test this product because I've been using this in my vehicle and as well as my spouse it's made by motorkote I ordered off Amazon you probably would need to get the gallon size where I get the 32 oz size that typically lasts me if you all changes but I would like to ask you is why don't I ever see you shaking up your bottles before you pour out oil I thought you were the one that talked about additives sitting on the bottom of the bottle yet I never see you shake up the bottle come out with the truth I never see you do that why don't you do that on all your recordings?

[@Patriot-od6xk]

97 Toyota Tacoma with 354,679 miles... Used Super Tech Synthetic Oil from 60,000 miles when factory warranty ran out... Still Runs Great 👍 and has Never had any breakdown... Yet 😅

[@jasonbogdovitz7357]

Your Toyota will go 500k with mud for oil but I get it

[@alcerz984]

This is true just because those vehicles have oil coolers. Heat breaks down and sludges up oil the oil cooler prevents that

[@70wildgoose]

2000 Tacoma here I switched to synthetic oil and noticed that I got oil leaking from valve covers, any body else?

[@alcerz984]

That happened to my 2011 pilot. That oil runs a lot more freely than conventional so I had to switch back to conventional while I get to change my oil gaskets

[@Jcprevat]

​@70wildgoose higher detergent content and uniform molecule size can lead to that on higher mileage engines. After 75k I switch over to a high mileage oil to swell the seals and limit leaks.

[@johnsamuels6021]

I’ve been using super tech synthetic blend for many years. My 04 suburban had 350,000 miles on it and didn’t burn a drop of oil! I would probably still be driving it if I hadn’t wrecked it and had to retire it. Love your videos!

[@FranciscoD256]

Did your suburban leak any oil? Thanks

[@johnsamuels6021]

@FranciscoD256 - The engine never leaked a drop of oil! The oil cooler lines were always wet (after the first 100k miles). The rubber hose portions weeped at the crimped ends. Like almost every car on the road. The hoses harden and the crimped clamps can’t be tightened, obviously. The (leaks) from them were so small that I never bothered to replace them.

[@Ryan-ds2wx]

A lot of people don't realize how fantastic Supertech Oil is. It performs superb. And for the majority of people out there that now drive these higher maintenance GDI cars with shorter oil changes intervals, the cheaper price of Supertech alone makes it a no brainer.

[@davidcarp5935]

whats GDI again? A different type of engine?

[@johnhutchison9782]

​@@davidcarp5935 gas direct injection. Google for the expanded explanation. I'm off to bed!

[@Ryan-ds2wx]

​@@davidcarp5935 Gas Direct Injection. Nearly every modern car now days have gone to this design. Awesome on power and fuel efficiency, but....the down side is that this design causes carbon build up on the valve train and even sludging. These engines require additional maintenance and much shorter oil change intervals, along with running higher quality fuel. These engine also need to be driven "spiritedly" every so often to clear any potential build up. The problem is, the vast majority of the general public doesn't know jack about their vehicle maintenance or this type engine design, and just putt their cars around never going above 40mph. So what does everyone get? Vehicle problems.

[@Reptitude]

Didn't a manufacturer add extra injectors to help clean the valves? I thought I heard something a while ago about "in the future expect 2 injectors per cylinder". I can't remember the engine but I thought this was done to help clean intake valves.

[@ironrain1x]

​@Ryan-ds2wx this is why my pickup truck is port injection only and my sedan and is direct and port injection

[@alpha2gproject783]

I'm glad I stumbled across this. I've been using Super tech for years and always thought it was an alright oil for a daily driver and I have been using it in my 2010 F150 for years now when a quart of basically anything not ST started hitting the 6-8 buck mark. Bought the truck with 117k and I just rolled over to 268 with zero issues. No leaks, no excessive wear issues at all. Change it every 5k.

[@ajmedeiros77]

So you use high mileage oil? Which engine do you have? Thanks

[@alpha2gproject783]

​@@ajmedeiros775.4 3 valve and I use high mileage but have used the typical full synthetic when I can't find it. Haven't had any issues with either.

[@ajmedeiros77]

@@alpha2gproject783 I have 5.4 2 valve. It’s slow but reliable lol. I use high mileage oil as well. 5w30 summer, 5w20 winter. No matter what oil, regular changes are key, especially if with the 3 valve! Crazy it’s either three valves that are trash and have to be replaced or three valves with tons and tons of miles on them lol

[@alpha2gproject783]

That's definitely true. Honestly I feel like the 09-10's don't have many of the same issues as the 04-08 and if memory serves me correctly that's because the later years is a considered a second generation with many updates and modifications. I had a 4.6 2 valve F150 and honestly I have to say that even with the added weight of the 09-14 body styles there is still a night and day difference. Which is weird because when I was looking for a truck I considered a 14 Coyote and Ecoboost but neither truck felt like it had much over the 5.4. I believe it has to do with where the torque is compared to those two and there's no turbos to keep up with. It's been a great truck and if it ever dies I'm just going to get a long block, put some forged rods in it and drive it until the frame splits in two because I hate buying new and there's nothing that a new truck offers that mine doesn't already have.​@@ajmedeiros77

[@dedomv11]

Your videos are always so informative. I do oil analysis everyday at work on heavy equipment. I actually look at the results for all the different compartments in the machines. I learn a lot from you.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thank you so much!

[@walterchyrywaty6726]

First race engine I ran had a flat tappet with 140 pounds on the seat and 350 pounds over the nose back in 2000. Broke it in on the dyno with Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic and the cam lasted 6 years. Only changed for a new rev box rule. Currently have an engine in its 8th year on the track that won a feature in its 7th. That was broken in with QS Dexos approved 5w30. All my flat tappets get full synthetic for break in . Havent lost a lobe in 24 years.

[@nicholasittzes7224]

All my tappets are flat, but I’m fat, so there’s over 250 pounds in the seat. 😂

[@nhbountyhunter]

Wow. Every time I watch this channel they are stating "facts" that always have contradictory evidence. There are a ton of full syn breaking oils. The additive pack is the key, not the base oil. His 0w-7 oil test video has proof he is wrong right on the screen but he misinterpreted the numbers right in front of him. My 07 ram 2500 hemi has 376k always has mobile 1 10w-30 with 2 qt of Lucas syn oil stabilizer since day 1. I just did valve cover gaskets not a drop of sludge, looks brand new in there. It towes everyday at least 10k lbs. It does not have MDS or I would use 5w-20. But I do my oils changes at 5k, no more. I bet I still have 350k left in the stock hemi.

[@Larbr000]

QS is highest rated PSI in the 540 RAT blog. It's what I'm using in my 3.6 Pentastar in my Jeep. With the cam issues I'm hoping it will work out as it's relatively cheap too.

[@jasonwilliams8321]

I use Supertech 5W30 Full synthetic on my Chevy Cruze which is my work car. Never had any problems with int and at 180,000 miles it still runs great.

[@Clevelandsteamer324]

Buy a Toyota

[@jasonwilliams8321]

@@Clevelandsteamer324 Why?

[@2nickles647]

Chevy Curse 😅

[@Steve_Reject]

1.4L turbo or 1.8L?

[@TheBigdog868]

Getting a Chevy cruze to 180k is more than about just using good oil. You also need to share your brand of Ouija board and the type of magick used to hold the car from falling apart.

[@brianklamer3328]

I've used the full synthetic 5W30 Chevron Pro DS sold at Walmart in 6 Quart container, a great value for full synthetic. Thanks for another great video.

[@kstricl]

Glad to see Supertech validated by another source. By my understanding the more uniform hydrocarbons of a modern synthetic base are why they are usually better (Pennzoil salesman from the early 00's lol) and I always put it into vehicles I care about. The heat removal characteristics are an interesting detail I wasn't aware of previously.

[@notsureyou]

I'm not an expert but I think that the best way to understand it is, Is by imagining having marbles all of the same size, and rolling an object on top of it. Versus having marble of different sizes. Whilst liquid cooled engines rely on coolant to keep the engine at a certain temperature, removing some heat from the engine is still a function of oil. Which is why an air-cooled engine will run hotter using a thinner oil compared to a thicker oil. As is keeping "particles" in suspension and carrying them to the oil filter, which is why it always baffles me when people add an engine flush to engine oil that is clearly already "saturated"....

[@dac7046]

Thanks for yet another interesting video. After watching your videos I shifted from conventional to full synthetic oil in my ‘98 Tahoe. Conventional took me from new to 330K miles with no engine work and still no oil additions between the 5K mile oil changes and I have the feeling that for typical northern US drivers oil/filter change interval is FAR more important than oil type.

[@hokie9910]

You can run anything you like as long as it meets the spec. A cheap petroleum oil will give you no better oil analysis then the most expensive 100% synthetic.

[@andrewmcfarland8181]

You are a great communicator. As a man married to a teacher I have been around educators for 50 yrs. I think you would make a one in a million shop teacher. You should start a mechanics school and give young people the opportunity to learn from the best. My wife and I sleep well knowing we have helped. Your work on this channel shows you have what it takes to make a difference .

[@themotoroilgeek]

Wow! Thank you so much!!!

[@dontderockmerizz3211]

I will say this tho…havoline full synthetic is a great oil. Great numbers on virgin samples. And comes in 6 quart boxes as many engines require 5.5-6 quarts. And when on sale in $22! Absolutely can’t be beat.

[@markjohnson5562]

While not motor oil...could you do a video/series on other related fluids and how they relate/don't relate. Fluids such as auto transmission fluids, gear oils, and possibly even hydraulic oils.

[@paultruesdale7680]

I second that!

[@Marcotic187]

Those in favor, say aye.

[@snubbelbuff1471]

The Don is always appreciated!!

[@themotoroilgeek]

He's the man!

[@Stacy_Smith]

​@@themotoroilgeekCAN YOU PLEASE, PLEASE, PURTY PLEASE, DO MOTORCYCLE OILS. Specifically Amsoil vs. Rotella T6. The Amsoil is way more expensive, but is it way better? If it's slightly better that doesn't justify paying that much more. In other words I'm not curious if Amsoil is better than Rotella T6, I know it is. I'm curious if it's worth the extra money. You'll need to test this with a wet clutch on your test rig or an actual motorcycle. Also I'm willing to donate non contaminated used oil. I'll be very careful cleaning the oil pan AND the oil container. This is my 2nd oil change with Rotella. I bought the bike with 6800 miles and now it's at dang near 18000.

[@Stacy_Smith]

​@@themotoroilgeekOne more thing... I commute 50 miles to work, so the loads applied are fairly consistent. This will somewhat mitigate 3rd variables. Obviously not as ideal as a test rig, but decently consistent.

[@themotoroilgeek]

@@Stacy_Smith I'm working on it! I promise it will happen.

[@Stacy_Smith]

@themotoroilgeek THANK YOU SIR!!!

[@earnestsandoval5293]

I use walmart synthetic in my pontiac G5 and it runs really good at 240000 miles. not as good as it was at 145000 miles but not really much difference, like I would have expected. This test proves that the brand I'm using is just as good as premium oil. Thank you.

[@terrypikaart4394]

Castrol GTX best conventional oil by far!.. Tested it for yrs in various engines, nothing beats it for holding viscosity and stability. Stays good looking for a very long time.

[@TheMangler777]

I beg to differ. I bought a brand new 1984 Oldsmobile Toronado. Owned it for its entire life and after an accident decided to rebuild the engine at 140k. I ran castrol GTX exclusively and always changed the oil every 3k miles. Well long story short…the engine was just full of sludge. This was 1983-2001 time period.

[@rosskrause3926]

I preferred conventional Valvoline 10W-30 over the rest of them and have been running their Max life synthetic blend 10W-30 since it came out.. I found it stays cleaner longer as well as it's viscosity holds up longer.

[@Turbogto_guy]

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. And that’s all it is. Unfortunately the facts disagree.

[@hokie9910]

@@TheMangler777I think it was the engine…

[@hokie9910]

@@Turbogto_guyYou can run anything you like as long as it meets the spec that engine is rated for. You can run a cheap petroleum, semi synthetic, full synthetic, or the best 100% synthetic you can find and the difference in your oil analysis will be minimal.

[@ibthumper2]

Thank you for the work! These videos have changed my thinking in a massive way. Old skool knowledge, RIP.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Awesome! I'm glad to hear that.

[@LincolnSixAlpha]

The Supertech stuff I believe is manufactured by Warren Oil. They also manufacture the Costco Kirkland oils, which I just recently adopted into my maintenance schedules in my brand new '24 Toyota Tacoma. This is my first usage of this manufacturer's oils, and thus far I'm happy. Good oil at a reasonable price!

[@holeshot26]

and amazon oils, you are correct! i saw a comparison vid of all 3 & they all tested the same! i believe that the kirkland is the cheapest of the 3...

[@martymcfly3825]

I deep dived it years ago. it used to be 3 different companies but it depended where your geographic location as to who you got oil from. in south east it was ExxonMobil in south central it was Warren. now I think it is made by a company called Delphin and all they make is non branded oil. If you really want to know go to Walmart sds and it will say where your oil is from.

[@ajmedeiros77]

Yes all 3 are the same oil per testing on KZbin. Get which ever is cheapest. I found Kirkland to be cheaper but they don’t always have high mileage oil in stock

[@bud613]

I've been using Kirkland oil for years on 4 different vehicles with no issues as well. Good oil, that's cheaper and gets changed more often. The best oil is clean oil.

[@Jeff-xn1ew]

Rural king store uses the same oil as Walmart as well. 5 quart jug full synthetic $20 and a OE filter. Been using it for years not a problem one. Change every 5k.

[@TRT-TRD]

Lake, I would like to see you do a video on synthetic oil production. How it is make, what is it made from? What is PAO, what is ester? Is it made from crude oil? I look forward to your videos as I just bought a new Tacoma (23 V6) now with 2400 miles, initial change at 1000.

[@kevinmcnabb168]

I have been buying Havoiline oil for the last 15 years to use in my vehicles. I really like the performance !! Always great videos guys

[@melvinenglebright8125]

I used Super tech oil 10w40 and Super tech filters. My truck is an 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, 208,698 miles. It's only had a failed wiper motor switch and a failed water pump . The engine is Still crisp and Sounds Great. No Smoke .

[@tripledelight8104]

I'm using super tech for the last 15 years, and my car has 275K now.

[@john1703]

Exactly. Geek cannot say it, but Walmart synthetic is not just better value, it is arguably better than Named brand non synthetic. What was not tested here was Named brand synthetic oil, vs Walmart.

[@IronMan-ml5yi]

What are your oil change intervals?

[@tripledelight8104]

@IronMan-ml5yi 4K - 5K miles or every 3 - 4 months. I use only S.T. synthetic oil. My car got older, and the oil got dirty faster. I just changed it. If you smell gasoline in oil, you must change around 3k.

[@member57]

@@tripledelight8104 200K on 2009 Suburban, 165K 2007 Impala, 120K 1018 Impala. Use exclusively synthetic ST oil. I change all these vehicles between 5k-7K miles NEVER smell gas in the oil, never. Your statement is not fact.

[@tripledelight8104]

@member57 Different cars have different problems, you just don't know it. Gas mixed engine oil is a common problem, especially when it gets old, a faulty piston rings can also cause this problem, it can cause more fuel to run through the combustion chamber and into the oil pan. Engine misfires occur when the air-fuel mixture is not ignited correctly. This will cause the gasoline not completely burned and gasoline wash the cylinder walls, too many problems to list here. Google is your friend.

[@jamescaron6465]

I switched from mineral to synthetic oil in my Land Rover 90 and I noticed it was running just a tick or two cooler. Not much and in fact, I I though it was just me, but it is nice to know I can get that hot running motor a little relief, especially in this gulf coast heat.

[@thestigisme2349]

Might want to consider running Redline Water Wetter in your coolant too. Should also lower temps

[@jamescaron6465]

@@thestigisme2349 I already do! LOL

[@MrTheHillfolk]

​@@thestigisme2349 I use straight water and the wetter here in the northeast. The ol vr6 likes it and when it's like 65 ambient out it'll struggle to hit 195 on the coolant temp and usually gives around the 180 range. Scangage is nice for that stuff, as these vws have a lying gauge on the dash. It'll read 190 anywhere from an actual 165-200. Literally if you see it running 1 needle width above 190, it's probably close to 210-215.

[@seashackf1]

@@MrTheHillfolkI love having a digital read out of the exact temp too rather than going by my gauge which also barely moves. I use the UltraGuage 2 though and love it. It’s small and can fit upto 8 gauges on one screen and gives check engine codes in real time. It’s amazing and was cheap too.

[@marknease1631]

Timestamp 4:30 “double flush” that sounds like a phrase used when depleting your colon that’s been backed up for several days.

[@Glocktard]

I call it a mid-drop flush, as in pinch that loaf.

[@themotoroilgeek]

LOL

[@kirkkohnen5050]

Colonoscopy prep?

[@williamtoney2599]

You always do a double flush after eating Mexican 😂

[@notsureyou]

@@kirkkohnen5050 That's more like 2 days of a flushing🔥

[@halflife82]

Such valuable information here! PDSC numbers sum-up 80% of the questions for sure. 👍 My biggest gripe is my customers who just don’t change their oil often enough, running extended OCI’s… in this regard, all the tests are somewhat irrelevant to anyone outside of engine oil geeks like us. Haha

[@bluewater9795]

Had a 2008 Tundra. When i traded for a 2019 Tundra it had close to 300,000 miles. I used super tech oil every oil change.

[@Tokomi]

@@nicholaspetre1 They are all great. Refer to owners manual so you know which one to use

[@davidbell4986]

I drive a 97 2500 chevy 5.7. Learned about friction modifiers in the 80s looking for oil for my motorcycles. Back then I knew Honda didn't make oil but recommended "Honda" oil at $9.00 a quart. Diesel oil doesn't have friction reducers that wet clutch plates don't like. Been using diesel oil since. My truck has enjoyed diesel synthetic ever since I got it with 200k on it and has 320k now. I know there are down sides to diesel oil but I'm good. I survived covid on my own without a mask and my truck runs great.

[@gregbarth9617]

I use synthetic Diesel oil in all my vehicles, it has all the vitamins and minerals a gas engine needs.

[@stephensklein6952]

Such a great channel! I really enjoy this education, Lake. Look forward to the next one.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks!

[@jamescereda2628]

40yrs ago,a mechanic named CD Honenycut. In Napa California . Asked me what is the better motor oil. He showed me with 3 different oils this test. Dip your fingers and hold a screwdriver. Witch won can you keep in your fingers without slipping out. I couldn't the others except Vavoline. Change my oil between 3-4 thousand miles. All my cars got between 200-300 thousand miles! Valvoline is my winner!

[@SuperSaltydog77]

The biggest thing that was drummed into our heads at the various military schools that I attended was CLEAN OIL IS THE LIFEBLOOD OF YOUR ENGINE.

[@paulsimpson8990]

My opinion is the viscosity and filtration are the two most important things to get right for longevity. Viscosity keeps things apart and filtration keeps things from getting in the oil film and damaging the engine components. We had limousines with bypass filtration that kept the oil clean as new and the engines just never wore out.

[@Resistculturaldecline]

I would like to see an analysis video on Havoline synthetic in a modern recommended viscosity, such as up to 5w30 and how well it may stack up when used in a direct-injection, or DI w/turbo. I can't find a PQIA on a modern Havoline sample. As always, a great video for the lubricant fanatics of the world.

[@anthonygiannone1006]

Awesome video Lake! Still waiting on the results for the Pennzoil can’t wait!!

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks, the Pennzoil video came out last month: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKjUepd8mrWSZ8U

[@anthonygiannone1006]

@@themotoroilgeek ohh I thought we would have one after the double flush! Also if a car can run 5w40 can you run 0w40 in upstate ny?

[@donniejenkins7909]

Is it ok to use full synthetic high mileage oil Mobil 1 5/20 -2004 f-150 4.6 even though the manual calls for synthetic blend?

[@BeefNEggs057]

@@donniejenkins7909 Look in the manual. If the oil meets OR EXCEEDS those API specs you’re good. The synthetic absolutely should be a higher spec than the blend and should at least meet but look in the manual and look on the bottle. Do a little googling of API specs to be sure. No guessing.

[@privateer0561]

I use Supertech exclusively. I started using it many years ago because it met the same standards as all the other name brand oils at about 1/2 the price. Two vehicles, change oil every 4000-5000 miles, 40,000 miles a year driven. Saved about $15 a change. That's thousands of dollars over the last 25 years.

[@ronlind1757]

Great video & content Lake! Interesting comparison here.. my 2002 5.3 Silverado now has 363k on original motor, valve covers never been off. I use Castrol GTX 5w-30 conventional non synthetic, oil. I change every 3k or so with such short trips.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks for sharing

[@rmduda1]

I am so happy to have found your channel, I learn new stuff all the time.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@rnl9520]

I am a snowmobiler, and there's so much snake oil around two-stroke oils for snowmobiles. Especially OEM oils vs. aftermarket. Would love to see a shootout of various OEM 2 stroke oils (especially the $60 a gallon Ski-Doo full synthetic) vs. Aftermarket oils.

[@robertbrewer2179]

I run lucas in my chainsaws and two stroke dirt bikes. Mostly because thats what available at the the local O’riellys. Never had any trouble with it even ragging out those dirt bikes on hill climbing and lots of high rpm wide open riding. Granted I don’t ride as hard as I used to but still I don’t baby durt bikes either.

[@rnl9520]

@robertbrewer2179 Lucas makes a low ash synthetic snowmobile oil that i have used but it can be hard to find at most local stores in my area (IL, WI, and U.P. of MI) Modern 2 stroke snowmobiles and watercraft need a low ash 2 stroke formulation. Many of the 2 stroke oils available at discount and hardware stores contain no ash and our design for marine applications. Definitely not what I want to use in a snowmobile. Would be interested in shootout with OEM oils vs. Aftermarket oils designed for Sleds

[@danielflinn3571]

Thanks from Australia well done

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks for watching!

[@michaelkrajnik1552]

I have been running Valvoline max life synthetic blend 5W 30 in my Nissan pathfinder with a 4.0 L V6 engine for over 380,000 miles. It does not burn a drop more of oil, still accelerates and runs like the day I got it when it had 20,000 miles on it.

[@prevost8686]

As an old automotive technician I think the variable hardness of the experimental rings is a an answer to a problem that doesn’t exist at least in stock applications. My specialty for almost 30 years has been engine repair and rebuilding. I’m either competent or just extremely lucky in that I’ve never had a comeback due to oil consumption. If you use the right rings for the application, check your clearances during the rebuild and break the engine in accordingly oil consumption is almost nonexistent. The #1 cause I’ve seen of oil consumption is not wear or a lack of rings seating correctly but it’s HARD carbon deposits literally cementing the rings to the piston. I can name numerous Asian and domestic engines that are plagued by this even with sufficient oil changes by the owner. If Valvoline R&P proves to have the ability to soften and remove the carbon they will have a winner oil . I’m somewhat skeptical at this point. I rebuilt a K24A last week that the carbon deposits in the oil ring land drains were so hard that I had to drill them out with a sharp drill bit. The oil essentially had no way to drain from the bores and was getting consumed by the engine. That engine had every high end flush that you could name to try to soften and remove the deposits but it made no difference at all other than lighten the owner’s wallet. These are just my experience and my opinions based on what I have seen.

[@darksu6947]

​@@KS-nr6wvAbout two days worth 😂

[@anonymike8280]

You're reminding me again of that 390 Ford I had back in the 70s with the stuck rings. Darn, if I knew then what I had learned later, I would have done everything I have ever heard of to get the carbon out. I eventually did do a backyard ring job. Part of what I learned though came from tearing down that engine. The cast iron V-8s of that era had a terrible reputation for wearing out early. The actual problem, especially with the small block Chevys, was lack of maintenance. Part of it though is that it was hard to get an oil change back then sometimes and if you changed your own oil, there was no regular place to recycle the drain oil either. A friend of mine who was a gearhead and street rodder back then said his friends who had small black Chevys changed the oil every 2000 miles. With the amount of mineral residues in the gas and the blowby those engines had, probably a good idea to change the oil that early. Another issue was clogged cooling systems. The coolant they had back then was not long life and the cast iron engines produced large amounts of scale in the cooling system. Ignore maintenance and the engines turned into oil burning, overheating messes in not too long. Another bonus was the rear seal going bad. That was another consequence of poor maintenance.

[@EldonJohansen]

I have rebuilt a couple gas engines at 300K miles, and the oil control rings, oil distribution holes as well as the gap behind the compression rings was completely filled with light brown ash deposits. I have recently disassembled a 0.67L 3 cyl 1800rpm diesel engines, and found both broken rings and carboned up stuck rings. But i have not seen this, in a handful of 1.9L VW tdi engines. The oil control and compression rings are not carboned up even with poor maintenance at 250K miles.

[@brockbaker3able]

After 358k miles on a ford focus, I’ll continue using super tech synthetic. Doesn’t use oil, and when changing the valve cover gasket, the top of the engine was pristine. 5-6k mile changes.

[@tommywicker1432]

As an at least 20 year Total Seal Ring guy i appreciate these series you guys are doing. Was using them in my nitrous ProMod for many, many years

[@OxBlitzkriegxO]

This has been known over at BITOG for many years now. Thank you for getting it out there though, it's appreciated.

[@utbelegs]

I was just waiting for someone to mention BITOG.

[@HawaiiJetboat]

2001 Toyota Tacoma with the V6 5Vz FE, 356,000 miles. Been using Supertech almost forever it seems. Best vehicle I've ever owned. Pulls the boat, daily driver & money maker!

[@lindafoxwood9091]

Best 30 minutes of my life! Great stuff here. I always watch your videos, I can not find anyone that makes videos about oil. Keep up the great job! ❤

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thank you!

[@LP2Check]

A Lake Jr & Gale Banks collaboration would be the ultimate=The details, excitement and charisma would probably make screens shatter!

[@themotoroilgeek]

LOL, Gale is great.

[@MarkGreiman]

​@@themotoroilgeekgale always runs his dyno test at peak for a lot longer period of time than u do

[@themotoroilgeek]

@@MarkGreimandifferent rings + different hone = different break-in procedure and time

[@stevehenderson2571]

Non-synthetic I bought new a 1994 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 1500with a 5.7. My engine shop Chief worked p/t evenings at WalMart. I used Walmart 10/30 for 268,000 miles and changed it every 3,000 along with filter. 14 1/2 yrs later I sold it to my neighbor who INSISTED on her having it. It used 1/2 qt between changes. Truck never let me down. I bought another same GMC with a 5.3 engine for another 14 1/2 yrs with same results. This time I used the oil quick chg place at the dealer.

[@bindig1]

I've been using Supertech oil for years. I have several cars all with high mileage and the engines are super smooth and quiet

[@dennissecor8092]

I switched over to supertech 10/30 full synthetic in my 99 Dodge van and haven't noticed any difference, it has 121k on It and runs great, I do my own oil changes and use mobile 1 oil filters!

[@markealy6468]

Thorough report. Was memorized through entire video. And since a lot of your research included SWRI, whom I have dealt with over my life on this earth, it lends accurate information for selection of motor oil for the daily driver. I was unaware of the "zinc" factor in motor oil. I would still like to know if an older vehicle that has been on conventional, which is harder and harder to find, can go to a semi synthetic or full synthetic oil.

[@davebarron5939]

Wow, great stuff, I am re-thinking my choices of oil usage. Thanks.

[@petereastwood7868]

Who would ever a thunk that oil analysis could be THIS exciting?! 🤪

[@danielrobert7181]

It would be very informative if you could run a wear test on 2-stroke mineral vs. synthetic outboard oil and find if there is any truth to being able to run a higher ratio mix and thus lowering emissions. Regards !

[@jeffgriffith7003]

Great idea, I run a lot of two-stroke lawn equipment and this has been something on my mind for years. Recently, a buddy gave me a spare bottle of his Amsoil 2 stroke oil and he swears it can be mixed as little as 100:1 and protect the same as 50:1. He said he does that with all of his equipment (proffesional; lawn guy) and he hasn’t had a failure yet in the 3 years he’s been running it, I’m a little skeptical and I ran it at the recommended ratio 50:1. Lol

[@andremarini7113]

I'd watch that!!

[@themotoroilgeek]

2 cycle oils are something we will get to!

[@emmettmackan7900]

Many will recall the old dyno tests which suggested increased performance at higher oil concentration. It might also be interesting to include one of the formulations which includes castor, sold by Klotz and Maxima.

[@PSA78]

​@@emmettmackan7900Indeed, the power kept going up until they just called it a day. 😆 Castor oil is unique, not The best lubrication under normal circumstances but it adds a bit of protection when things start to go wrong.

[@paulcostinett886]

I appreciate what the data shows. I have a 68 VW Bug on a fresh top end rebuild (1600 dual port; pertonix coil/diz; stock cam). My understading is zinc is a key element in the longevity of the motor. But, after watching several of your videos, I've learned the Rislone ZDDP additive I was advise to use was horribly over-zincing the motor. So I switch to the Valvoline VR1 with idea of still getting higher zinc content indigenous to the oil (without the high corrosive effects of the addititve), additional horsepower for a stock 40 HP motor, decent cooling quality (air cooled motor - oil is the lifeblood) with the idea I'm yanking this at 3K miles. So, while I agree that "race oils are designed for a race environment", I think based on my application, this may be the right oil to use. (VR1 10W-30). Which runs contrary to convention VW build thinking where conventional oil with a high zinc content additive is the right way to go.

[@markc7551]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Fascinating information. Really appreciate the focus on reducing the variables with the double flush and zero hour testing.

[@themotoroilgeek]

I'm glad it was helpful!

[@johndorrell1]

VERY interesting as always Lake! Does the FTIR testing illustrate "film strength". That's one issue you haven't mentioned so far and one that's not mentioned in UOA test results. Blogger 540 RAT and Project Farm do mechanical film strength testing with wear scar results, and there are noticeable differences among oil brands. Also, you have yet to mention differences between "synthetic" hydrocracked mineral oil (Group III), and true synthetics like PAOs and esters (Groups IV and V). Lastly, in reference to Super Tech, you said the additive package "requested by Walmart". Super Tech is API SP and ILSAC GF-6 like almost every other oil on the shelf, meaning it meets current industry standards. Keep it coming Lake!

[@tshackelton]

Walmart is really hard to beat on oil prices, but they really shine for car batteries. They are all made my johnson controls these days with different labels and walmarts are the "freshest" around, typically not even 2 months old. Auto parts stores have batteries sit around on the shelf for 6-8 months. I've even had them give me no grief swaps under warranty w/o receipt too....

[@sasquatchcrew]

neverstart batteries are the best

[@kustomdeluxe8489]

Johnson Controls sold its battery division in 2019 to Brookfield Business Partners, the company is now called Clarios. I've had good luck with East Penn made batteries, 16 yr. old Deka in my tractor, and 11 yr. old Car Quest in my Tacoma.

[@spangsman]

A few years back project farm did a battery review and said the walmart batteries were the best value. I've since bought them for 2 vehicles with zero issues. (Sad part is... same exact battery at same exact walmart, price Went from 88$ to 129$ in the matter of 2 years)😢. Still a great battery cheaper than most.

[@2nickles647]

Yup. Wally world, AutoZone, Oreally, and others use the same batteries. Johnson control's. Each one with a different badge to make them unique. It's like having a girlfriend who dresses up to a different date😅😅😅😅

[@JimZagg]

Lake, I absolutely enjoy your videos, I ALWAYS learn something. I'm always telling people to watch your videos !!! Thank You !!! Keep up the research !!!!

[@themotoroilgeek]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@BoodaN4sty]

Ive been using Supertech for almost 6 years in my k20, k24 and j30!!! I rev to 8200 rpm religiously and had zero issues!!! Ive used different brands just to test and yeah i like the Walmart brand!!!

[@fizwin1]

Great Vid again! Side note: Screw EPA fuel mileage... I use ST oil in EVERYTHING! In my 2008 Tundra, I tried the OEM spec/Toyota brand 5w20 sync because I read it had more zinc (different combo of additives/modifiers) etc because with over 200k miles, I get either a timing chain chatter, or i think maybe a stuck lifter or vvti issue. No idea. Very inconsistent. Sometimes happens on cold start, mostly happens as it warms up. The Toyota did nothing, until I added Lucas treatment and it only does it once in a while. I plan on going back to Supertech, probably 10w30 straight, or 5w30 with Lucas added. I also use ST in my garbage kia/hyundai 2.4 Theta2 pos, and I use 5w30 NOT 5w20 any more. These engines super dilute the oil...

[@a29s12]

I would love to see a list of common cars and trucks and the oil you would use for each vehicle. I speak for many watching, we would love the advice. Thanks

[@themotoroilgeek]

Great suggestion!

[@roncox5512]

Until this channel came along, I wouldn't have known that I too was a motor oil geek.

[@dane5896]

My mechanic had a number of his customers with Subaru's, having oil consumption issues. He switched them to conventional oil, 3000 mile changes. The consumption issues stopped.

[@RedboneTool]

I have a 2018 Subaru Outback that uses oil. It is the 0w20 synthetic. What conventional oil did your mechanic switch to? I don’t recall seeing 0w20 conventional oil

[@Wrang15]

In my 21 turbo Subaru, I just change it every 4 months. Mosty because it's 4 miles of slow driving dirt roads every time it goes out.

[@notsureyou]

@@RedboneTool You can't get MINERAL 0W20 engine oil. From memory all OW oils are full synthetic base (man made, not from any crude whatsoever) If I was in your position I would look at what oil viscosities the manufacturer recommends, and if a thicker is allowed (5W30 etc) I would go down that path. As well as jumping onto a Subaru forum in your country, and see what other people are doing.

[@Fortheloveofjdm]

@@notsureyouI assume you mean you can’t get conventional 0w-20. Def good to see what you can use from the manufacturer and what tolerances they allow for There is no more solid advise than talking to the guys on the forums with you particular model car. They know. I’m a member or civic and accord forums as well as rav4world. 😁

[@caesarflickerman7047]

Subaru boxer engines are competing for the worst engines of all time.

[@xfactor5876]

Awesome stuff!! Little bits of information glancing off of my forehead as it goes over my head, but in the end I was able to grab the concepts. Still working on getting my knowledge up to where I could determine the correct chemistries for the engines I own. I have always opted for shorter drain intervals to compensate for the lack of expertise in picking the right oils.

[@lewis9888]

I used Quaker State motor oil in my first brand new car that I bought in 74. It did not go well by the end of three years. When I bought my first brand new pickup truck in 77, I started using Valvoline motor oil and still do. The only difference is going from a conventional oil to a synthetic oil on engines with high mileage on them.

[@1Buckluck]

Send me that "flush" oil!! I will put in my cars truck or jeep lol

[@jeffoliver2891]

Who knew Supertech was such good oil. Thanks!

[@wasabitoburrion4409]

I use it often on both of my cars with over 200k miles or 320k km.

[@OtisFlint]

It's not, synthetic is just vastly superior than conventional. Other synthetics are far better.

[@TonicofSonic]

​​@@OtisFlintAbsolutely false statement. See project Farm. This oil performs as well as any full synthetic, with only two or three brands being marginally better, with one of the two Costing 3x as much.

[@aidenp5768]

@@TonicofSonicIt won’t outperform Redline tho I bet, that’s group 5.

[@jeffreycash1572]

Works just as well as any other Just change it at 5000 Kirkland from.costco Oreillys oil Amazon basic all the same oil

[@superscuba73]

2:00 One ring to rule them all.

[@themotoroilgeek]

LOL

[@GroetenUitNederland]

This truely professional expert level testing! Great video and thanks for sharing. The only thing I missed was a namebrand fully synthetic 10W-30 (like Havoline). To compare the Wallmart oil to. As the we would have an appels to appels comparising within the same product category

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks! The next video we do with engine testing is name brand vs budget brand synthetics.

[@GroetenUitNederland]

@themotoroilgeek Thanks for taking the time to respond to a recent comment on a 3 month old video. I'm looking forward to that new video! I live in the Netherlands (West Europe) and own a cheap old small Daihatsu. So I fill it with cheap, fully synthetic oil 5W30 C3, meeting all the specs for my car. Sold at a discount store similair to Walmart in the States pricelevel wise

[@mardamek3]

These types of videos are great 👍 I usually buy Mobil1 from Walmart. For my RAV4 it’s either ordering the Toyota branded oil at a relatively high price or get the 5-quart Mobil1 jugs at Walmart. It’s usually around $25. When there is a “rollback” sale, and it’s even cheaper, I buy a few jugs and store it in the garage. I put on a lot of miles on the car and change the oil every 3000 miles. So, the cost factor is important…

[@billwiesen3231]

Super Tech is good oil that is frequently overlooked for high priced, no better oils

[@markwarnberg9504]

Super Tech comes from Warren Dist. who buy from one of the major oil companies like Mobil/Exon - Conoco/Philips - Shevron/Havolin.

[@damiansmith5322]

They used to market Supers oil sold at Kmart and it was a great oil also and very affordable

[@MrTopHat4]

I have been running super tech for years. Thanks to your videos i have changed from a 5w20 to a 10w30 in my jeep. At least for the summer here in AZ. In October i will go to the 5w30.

[@goclunker]

What jeep? 3.8?

[@MrTopHat4]

@@goclunker yes

[@goclunker]

@@MrTopHat4 you can run w40. Try to find a 5w40. I run 5w40 on my 3.8L Caravan because as you know, these motors can consume oil. I also connected the PCV to a catch can and its vent to atmosphere from there. I plugged the port on the intake manifold. I was finding that my 3.8 was consuming a lot of oil through the PCV, even when I replaced the valve with a new mopar one. I live in Socal, so it is hot here as well. w40 is cheap protection running a motor in this heat, no oil sheer when it gets hotter than hot.

[@MrTopHat4]

@@goclunker thanks for the info

[@TheOwlGuy777]

I've got a 2003 Nissan Frontier 6 cylinder with well over 300000 on the clock and still going strong. All I've done is change the oil every 5000 miles with the WalMart SuperTech synthetic. The valve seats are tired, but compression is still high and there is no bottom end rattle whatsoever.

[@JerryHelton-zo7dg]

I'm 56 years old. I only use Supertech oil and filters. Zero problems. Plus you will save a LOT of money over time.

[@flexjay87]

Very cool engineering on the variable ring material. The choice of off the shelf Havoline and Supertech comparison was a surprise, but quite revealing on the test results.

[@themotoroilgeek]

Thanks!

[@jayo8484]

I know this is off topic but can you do a video on hybrid specific oils like the Valvoline and mobile 1 oils that was designed with hybrids in mind? There is very little information on them (besides the company description). I wanted to see if it’s just marketing or do they actually benefit hybrid engines.

[@joshjamesguitar]

I really want to see you run tests on the Motul 300V Competition in any of the grades, too see the wear and oil life expectancy, i run the 5w40 in a street car but it only gets run 3000 miles a year at most.

[@holeshot26]

sounds like a subie❤

[@ASJC27]

+1. Would love to see a proper test of it. I run the 0w-20 in winter and the 5w-30 in summer in my FL5 type r. Change every 4500-6000 miles. I saw UOA from someone using that oil in the same engine with 8000 miles interval (including tracking it) and the results looked good, but I prefer to play it safe.

[@Nel33147]

I can finally breathe easier now knowing I’ve been using SuperTech in my 2007Accord couple 6 cylinder for the last 16 years. After its 2 year warranty expired I made the switch from synthetic blend 5w20 to full synthetic. I’m not even using high mileage , just straight synthetic and Mobil1 filter with a 5k OCI ! One of the advantages is that I get both oil and filter right at Walmart and don’t have to worry about running here and there.

[@craighansen7594]

The grey area I'm interested in is a performance, street driven, 450hp flat tappet cam motor. This car is driven typically less than 2000 miles a year. The oil is changed every year. The engine was fully broken in on high zddp break-in and race oils. Should I now run a full synthetic "street" oil?

[@RobertYonng]

What about Valvoline restore & protect against Toyota 0w-16 would be interesting 👍

[@themotoroilgeek]

Good suggestion!

[@caesarflickerman7047]

Careful, you are gonna cost him sponsorships talking like that. Asking for science on a brand he is paid to promote is a big no no.

[@themotoroilgeek]

@@caesarflickerman7047no sponsors on this channel

[@jamieb9556]

I actually use Havoline 10w30 conventional in a older vehicle.😅 I remember the commercials add more life to your car. It would be interesting to see how well the Havoline synthetic oils hold up to the bigger Name brands.

[@tommysanfilippo3165]

Was owned by Texaco back then too. I was an ardent user and supporter back then.

[@wesoblander3648]

Havoline in conventional form was quite good back in the mid-late 80s. I used the 10-30 and straight 30 on different vehicles at that time with success. The Havoline commercial at the time claimed that their oils were 'state trooper tested...'

[@anidiotinaracingcar]

Loved it. But have you compared the Walmart oil with a fully synthetic namebrand made for passenger cars?

[@themotoroilgeek]

Stay tuned!

[@Texassince1836]

When my 350 smallblock (flat tappet) was losing a gallon of oil every 1000 miles I used the Supertech Synthetic, which at the time was $25 for a 3 gallon box. Since the rebuild I have been using VR1 Synthetic 10W30 on a 5,000 mile change interval. I run that 5,000 miles in less than 100 engine hours since I drive 90% interstate. The results show those were both excellent decisions

[@robertmaybeth3434]

I'm in southern Calif and I can't even imagine going that many miles on the highway, you can't go more than 10 miles without hitting traffic unless you drive at 3 AM... you must spend most of your waking hours behind the wheel. How did you get time to write that comment?

[@scottp6761]

So you rebuilt the enging and then used vr1? Btw VR1 has no detergents for cleaning. Id say if the rebuild happened it wasnt supertech oil causing the oil loss. It was an old worn out engine.

[@phillipchristensen3202]

This helped me really understand what's going on and the reason my outboard engine manufacturer recommends the synthetic blend that they do. All the "experts" online say to run full synthetic but that would likely run really cold in an engine that already runs in the 140s. Very cool video!

[@chadh6478]

Great way to start my day, geeking out on oils!

[@themotoroilgeek]

I'm glad to help get your day started right!