ToyTec Boss Complete Suspension Lift Installation

[@TimmyTheToolman]

**ADDITIONAL NOTES FOR THE JOB - PLEASE READ THIS PINNED COMMENT AND ALSO READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION** **We didn't bother showing the brake bleeding process because I show that in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ_cfGaMYrR6pJY **The link to the pdf file below shows you how to set up the tools to press the old upper balljoint out and press a new upper balljoint back in. It's a 2 page document and the information for 3rd Gen 4runners is on page 2. www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/538622.pdf **If you're interested in purchasing the other specific balljoint press adapters I used to remove the OEM upper balljoints and install the Total Chaos joint, here's what I got: I bought them through the Coastal Tool Supply company. www.coastaltoolsupply.com/ 1) OTC 538591 - Adapter, Removing - $20.89 2) OTC 38354 - Receiving Cup - $24.38 3) OTC 314392 - Plug - $9.55 4) OTC 38355A - Installing Cup - $25.25 5) OTC 313968 - Remover - $10.43 **We struggled with the upper balljoint removal and I've found it's much easier to just remove the whole knuckle so you can secure the knuckle in a bench vise which makes it much easier to apply the force necessary to drive the balljoint out and UCA adapter in. We show this technique in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6S8Y5SwrrF1q6s **When greasing the bushings for the Total Chaos UCAs, we greased the outside of the bushing and we weren't suppose to grease that area. You only want to grease the inner part of the bushing where the metal sleeve slides into. You want the bushing sleeve to be able to slide in the bushing but you don't want the bushings sliding in the control arm. Another thing we should have did was put a little silicone paste on the outsides of the bushings where the washers will ride against.

[@luissrey3030]

Good evening. Would like to get some work done. How can I get hold of you?

[@SOS-School_Of_Survival]

I've probably saved four thousand dollars in labor costs by watching your videos man, thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jeffrey, that's great to hear. Thanks for taking the time to share this. Happy Wrenching!

[@SOS-School_Of_Survival]

@@TimmyTheToolman hello! We chatted on here before but I just want to confirm that my 04 Taco will show tranny temps through the OBDii plugin and Torque Pro app?

[@federalli169]

Are these guys in business to do a 100 series ? I’m in the IE

[@sflotr]

Lol. A body lift followed by a suspension lift. You guys are living in the clouds. Too much cannot be enough. Wow! I did suspension on a Jeep TJ. Obstacle after obstacle. Transfer case issues, pinions angles. Tom Woods drive line etc... I swore I'd never do another. Good to see some people never say never!!! Thanks for the vids.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Haven't you heard? More is Better. You're welcome.

[@zw-hh7so]

I have a 2000 sr5 and I have watched so many of your videos, they've really helped a lot thank you! Maybe you can do a video on how to get such an excellent moustache!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you're finding our videos helpful. The mustache is usually something I grow during November for Movemeber. Movember is something to bring awareness for Testicular and Prostate Cancers. Basically a Men's Health month. Everybody has different facial hair and I guess I can grow a decent mustache. But, I'm no Sam Elliot like in the movie Tombstone. He had a hell of a stache in that movie.

[@fakeprofile3256]

Wife just came in asking what I am yelling about. Just saw you loosen the lower control arm bolts to get it to drop down. I was battling that today and couldn't figure out how I could get it low enough to receive the lifted struts. Tim, You Are The Best!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad that tip helped you get your struts/coilovers in. Hopefully you didn't scare your wife too much. Happy Wrenching!

[@Ty-tie_FTW]

By far, the best toyota mechanic videos on youtube! Timmy is awesome. I can't even count how many thousands of dollars I have saved by just watching his videos and working on my own rigs. I have spent quite a bit in tools, but I have them for as long as I can keep track of them. Thanks Timmy! You kick a$$!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Dude! That’s kick-ass. Thanks for the compliments and stopping by the comment section to share the stoke with us. We are very glad you’re using our videos and saving yourself money and learning stuff along the way! That’s the goal with these videos. SICMODS! - Sean

[@Jasonhb07]

I was cringing the entire time with that bottle jack loaded right next to my head. Replacing my TRDs with Toytec springs, I'm going to follow your lead this time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I do like the technique of just loosening the cam adjuster bolts for the LCA to get the additional movement needed to get the struts/coilovers out and back in.

[@VarroTigurius-u1f]

Timmy bless your heart man.. So I did the front end a few weeks ago and just finished the rear end by myself tonight.. I dont know if I would have ever finished it without your guidance... the biggest help you did for me was the pan hard bar... no other set of instructions or youtube videos I saw mentioned disconnecting it.. The toytec rear driver side spring is longer than the passenger side by at least an inch or so to offset the driver side dip (that what they say). Talk about a pain!! Then after that I had to get the pan hard reconnected which was hell because the spring kept the bolt from going back in the factory direction. It only took me 6 hours to do it solo... lol.. anyways thanks for all the 3rd Gen videos.. they have been a god send helping me get mine built! Merry Christmas (2021) to ya!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear you succeeded with the lift using our video as a tutorial. That was a ton of work and you should be proud of your accomplishment. We really appreciate you sharing your success with us. Merry Christmas back at ya and Happy Wrenching!

[@rick3034]

Great video, thanks for that. I did one of my upper ball joints with the same type of ball joint press by myself. The removal and install took over 3 hours. So I removed the other steering knuckle and got a mechanic to press the ball joint in for 30 minutes of labor... totally worth it. Hindsight I learned that it would have been much easier to remove the steering knuckle and put it into a vice for upper ball joint removal.

[@jeffgoldsmith1679]

I'm gonna sign off at 11:22, because I will probably never lift my new to me 2018 SR5, but I have to say Timmy the Toolman is awesome. Such clear, easy to understand step by step communication. I'll sub in case he shows some mods I will do.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jeff, thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. We do have some videos related to 5th Gens that might interest you. We have a playlist you can check out: kzbin.info/aero/PLPMpPriBUyJBkChcQdctIo11q2g_UsdR_ Thanks for subscribing.

[@damagedworld5577]

Love you Timmy couldn’t do it without you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! We love you too.

[@martinkim6564]

This channel needs more subs.. You guys do great work and i hope my mechanic can do as good of a job as you guys when i end up lifting my 2002 sr5

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Martin. We appreciate the compliment.

[@michaelspangenberg4077]

Hey Timmy. I really enjoy your videos and have used them for reference on many occasions for work on my 2001 Limited. I have a minor suggestion / request. When you do aftermarket work (such as lifts), it would be nice to get a good before and after visual comparison. Keep up the good work. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mike, other people have told us the same thing. We forget that a lift is not only functional but cosmetic as well and people want to see what it looks like. The before is easy because you can look at stock 3rd Gens all day driving on the road. This was a beast of a job and took us a long time as you can see that's it's night time at the end of the video. And it wasn't just early evening but late evening when we finished so our after shots weren't the greatest. Glad you like the videos we're putting out. Make sure you subscribe if you haven't already.

[@aldomassa7473]

Awesome work Tim and Sean, detailed and well done.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! We appreciate the compliment.

[@twwtb]

Another great video making things more clear for the next guy. It may have been mentioned that one good reason for the uniball UBJ is for the added range of motion. There are other upper arms available that compensate for the increased angle. I think most aftermarket makers recommend changing to a different upper arm for lifts above about 2 inches. Thanks man.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, supposedly the Total Chaos arms give you 1" of additional whee travel.

[@johnnylee4347]

I ran a thread chase on mine. One of the best kits I’ve ever bought from the SnapOn guy.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What did you run a thread chase on? We made this video quite some time ago so I don't know what you're referring to. I have a Craftsman thread restorer kit that has come in handy many times. How much was the SnapOn kit? Was it an arm, a leg, or both? SnapOn makes nice tools but they are generally not the tools most DIYers buy because of the very high sales prices.

[@kjjohnson230521]

19:52 I can't stop staring at the D: face in the metal

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's funny. I never noticed that.

[@seanmamaclay9554]

This video is awesome! I've been planning on ordering a toytec boss suspension for my 1999 Toyota Tacoma and I'm glad i found a video to give me confidence i can do it myself!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Sean, glad you like the video. We actually could have done you one better because we did install a Toytec Boss lift on a 1st Gen Tacoma but we lost the footage when my buddy Sean accidentally dropped the external hard drive. We did find the rear leaf springs a little tricky and we learned one important thing that day. Only disconnect on rear leaf spring at a time. It was getting late and we were trying expedite finishing the job and my buddy Tom who's Tacoma we were working on decided to start disconnecting the driver side leaf spring while Sean and I were working on getting the passenger side leaf spring in. When both are disconnected at the same time, there's basically nothing holding the rear end in place other than the drive shaft. The rear end started to rotate and fall and we had to react quickly to get it stabilized with a floor jack. You can do this job yourself no problem if you have the right tools. When installing lifts, it's very helpful to have a extra set of hands so hopefully you have a buddy that can help you out. Happy Wrenching!

[@seanmamaclay9554]

@@TimmyTheToolman bummer that video would of been spot on! You read my mind because I was just gonna ask you too because i thought about replacing the stock leaf springs with the OEM Dakar leaf springs pack they offer when purchasing the kit. and my question was gonna be about how you secured the truck once you took off the old leaf springs. Another question i had is if its good to just replace the lower ball joint/and or lower control arm when installing the lift?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@seanmamaclay9554 As long as you only disconnect one leaf spring at a time, you'll be fine doing the rear. They are heavy and awkward so having a buddy help is a good idea. Yes, it's a good idea to replace the lower balljoints at the time of installing the lift. LBJs are a known common failure point on 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners. As for the lower control arms, you don't ever need to replace them unless they rust out. But, replacing the bushings is not a bad idea. You can either go with OEM replacements or an aftermarket poly bushing like Whiteline makes. We have a video on how to replace them. The one snag you can run into when replacing LCA bushings is a frozen cam sleeve. The cam sleeve gets rusted into the sleeve of the bushing and then you're forced to cut them out. We have a video showing how to do that too. I had to cut out 2 cam sleeves out on my 98 4runner.

[@seanmamaclay9554]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for all the advice!! Really appreciate it!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Sean. Good luck with all the work.

[@nzrestoration9486]

Great detailed video, good to see made in USA tool, OTC, instead of the usual made in China! You would have made a great tutor.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. We're glad you like the video. I have to say though I'm not 100% sure all OTC tools are made in the USA still. I've heard people say they have farmed out some of their manufacturing to China but I don't know if this is true. Thanks for the nice compliment. I appreciate it.

[@robertthomas7940]

Thanks for posting this video it has helped me out a lot. You may want to include and anyone correct me if I'm wrong that the 96-2000 3rd gen 4 runners only have a single rear brake line while the 2001 to 2002 4Runners have the double rear brake lines

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Robert Thomas You're welcome Robert. I think you are correct about the difference between the years and the number of brake lines. My 1998 only has one brake line and I think my 2000 also only has one brake line. I will try to confirm this. Thanks for sharing this info.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Robert Thomas The diff drop helps but does not eliminate the CV boot ribs rubbing. The fix is to do a boot stretch mod with the OEM inner boots or run some aftermarket boots that connect further down the shaft like Off-road Solutions sells. We have a CV axle reboot video that shows how to do the boot stretch mod. I remember Eric put some pretty big tires on, possibly larger than a P285/75/16. He also has a 2" body lift we installed for him.

[@robertthomas7940]

Timmy The Toolman thanks for the reply I just figured that out the other day while I was watching your video. I have watched your video on the CV boot extension mod another great video and a good idea to extend the life of your CV boots. I recently replaced and upgraded both my CV axles and went with the extended boots and already had the diff drop hopefully this makes them last longer. Again thanks for posting these videos and passing on your knowledge I know they have helped me out a lot including a lot of other people.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Robert Thomas You're welcome Robert. Sean and I started this KZbin channel to help people and we never get tired of hearing from people that have been helped my one of our videos. Not everyone takes the time to comment so we definitely appreciate it when people do. Happy Wrenching!

[@williamwhitehead8362]

I'm not sure which one to buy I'm thinking the 700 pound with your silver for the front one I was wondering where you buy your brake flex lines for your your front and back it didn't show where they were they were what number they were on the kits?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Those brake line kits came from Toytec. They sell them and I imagine there's other companies that make them as well. If you don't see them on the Toytec website, give them a call because maybe they do but you just missed it.

[@4runner4wd79]

You guys are awesome, keep doing these informative videos. It really helps! Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Michael Pabros You're welcome Michael. Glad you like what Sean and I are doing.

[@4runner4wd79]

Timmy The Toolman BTW what was the online Toyota store you guys use? And how are those Toytec BOSS, any complaints?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We buy most of our parts from Camelback Toyota in Arizona. This lift was put on another guy's rig. I haven't talked with him in a while so I don't know how he likes the lift. The last time I talked with him, it sounded like he had a bad head gasket because he was losing coolant and had misfire problems. Maybe he got rid of the truck.

[@raymondkitchen9215]

Love the video but what's up with the flash of the hand gun at 55:29???

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Ramond, glad you like the video. I guess you didn't get the reference. A 10mm is a model of a hand gun. Sean sometimes likes to put funny flashes on the screen based off things I say in the videos. I guess you could say Sean and I have a weird sense of humor. We're not promoting hand guns or anything like that.

[@mr.rogers9319]

It's a subliminal message. If you live in Florida you can have one

[@christophergoodwin6846]

A cool trick to get the puck into the spindle much easier is to put it in the freezer for a few hours before and it will slide right in. Add a little heat on the spindle right before and it will go in even easier

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tips Chris. Since making this video, I now just take the knuckle completely off the rig so I can secure it on my bench vice and it makes it much easier to press the balljoint out and back in. When the knuckle is still on the rig, you really need an extra set of hands. With it off the rig, you can do it all by yourself. I am going to try the freezer trick one day though. I just have to remember to get the parts in the freezer well before it's time to install them.

[@1stgenoffroad]

Aren't the ToyTec Boss rear shocks rebranded Bilstein 5100s?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if this is true.

[@preferablyoutside]

I did an SPC upper control arm install over the weekend and ran into similar issues trying to press out the upper ball joint. Found that cutting off the threaded portion of the ball joint just above the ball itself allowed me to press it out with just a long arm puller (AutoZone sells one with articulating arms, which helped).

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Austin, thanks for sharing your technique and good job getting it done.

[@jamaison1]

Hi Austin. what did you use to press on the new SPC ball joint? Thanks! Joe.

[@preferablyoutside]

hey @@jamaison1 - if I recall correctly, the SPC UCA ball joint configuration lets you just push a sleeve finger-tight into the knuckle upright that receives the threaded end of the ball joint that's pre-fit into the UCA itself.

[@RoyAcosta]

Great video walk thru. I was going to try something similar but I don't have the tools or help for a weekend type of setup. Maybe one day I'll try it if I get a 2nd vehicle where I don't need to drive my 04 Taco.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. A second vehicle is certainly nice to have if you like to wrench. There's plenty of times I've had to run to the dealer, auto parts store or the hardware store to get something that I needed and the second vehicle came in handy. It's also good for those times when you have to tap out and finish a job another day.but you still need transportation.

[@williamwhitehead8362]

I was wondering on your lower control arm ball joint why you couldn't take the four bolts out just above that to remove that instead of the mole joy I'd like to hear your comment on that I just noticed that there's like four bolts are home that buried in give me a give me shout out on that thank you ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can remove the 4 balljoint bolts instead of breaking free the lower balljoint from the lower control arm but the reason why I choose to do it the way I show in the video is I don't want to mess with the 4 bolts because #1, lots of people use loctite when installing them and #2, people have reported these bolts breaking. So, I don't want to stress the bolts again by having to re-torque them and also have to reapply loctite.

[@SEKI14000]

Nice job! Did the diff drop eliminate CV boot rubbing at ride height? What size tires is Eric going to run? Is he going to regear the diffs?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The diff drop did not eliminate CV boot rubbing. One of his inner boots tore recently so we just rebooted his CV axles. When we rebooted Sean's boots and did the boot stretch mod, his boots looked really stretched out. I was going to do a smaller extended mod for Eric but decided to see if the ribs would be rubbing without any extension of the boot. One side is rubbing and the other is not. I thought that was kind of weird when everything is the same on both sides. With it rubbing, I'm sort of curious how long it will last before ripping. But, I'm thinking we could cut off the small clamp on the inner boot, put a c-clip on and wrap it will some tape so the boot isn't rubbing against metal and then stretch the boot over the clip and then lock it onto the shaft with a standard hose screw-down hose clamp. Eric is running some big meat tires now. Don't know the size but they are big and heavy. He has not mentioned any desire to re-gear. He might not even know some people re-gear when they add larger tires.

[@Mr_Clean]

I've never understood why they only make one size diff drop kit.

[@wayupnorth1973]

Awesome video guys very descriptive. Will help me a ton when I install mine!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the comment. Hope you lift install goes smooth.

[@jamesarnold6059]

Really appreciate your videos. I DO recommend them. I do NOT recommend this suspension lift. Eibach springs covered in rust within months. Handled like garbage. Switched to bilstein no regrets

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like our videos and thanks for the feedback on the lift.

[@RyanBissell]

Thanks for the video! A couple of (sets of) questions: 1. What purpose did the new upper control arms serve? Did the taller springs make them necessary? Are the new arms longer than stock? If so, did the fact that you didn't also change out the lower arms cause the new coilovers to sit at an angle other than vertical? 2. Were the diff-drop pucks wedge-shaped, or were the flat ends parallel to each other? If parallel, did you get the sense while installing them that it would have been better for them to be wedge-shaped? Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The Total Chaos upper control arms offer more clearance to run bigger tires and they supposedly increase wheel travel by up to 1". The OEM UCA has a wider profile (sticks out further towards the wheel) than the Total Chaos UCA. If you want to run bigger wider tires and don't want to buy aftermarket UCAs, you have install wheel spacers to push the wheels out away from the control arms. The Total Chaos joint is also stronger than the OEM upper balljoint. It's a pretty beefy uniball joint. The new arms are shorter than stock but the area where the joint connects is the same. The way the OEM UCA is made, there's steel material that sticks out past from where the upper balljoint is. With the Total Chaos UCA, the uniball joint is right in the line with the arms and there's no extra metal sticking out towards the tire. This gives you more room for tire clearance. The coilovers connect to the frame and lower control arm. They don't connect to the upper control arm directly so nothing changes and the spring sits like it always did. The differential drop pucks are flat disks, no wedge shape. I'm not an engineer but I don't think it would work having a wedge shaped puck connecting to a flat surface.

[@RyanBissell]

Thanks! I asked about the wedge shape because it seemed like dropping the diff would possibly change the angle that the mating surface of the differential makes to the mating surface of what it normally attaches to. I was curious if that was apparent.

[@twwtb]

Ryan Bissell There are angled diff drop spacers available, but I dont think they are necessary for a 1 inch drop. A one inch differince over a 14 inch pivot distance is about 4 deg. probably not an issue.

[@RyanBissell]

Thanks. Love the vids, please keep them coming.

[@theskidmo7625]

What adjustable panhard bar did you guys use?

[@gerryscott876]

What is the point in lowering the front supports on the front diff but not doing the rear? Won't this just induce an angle into the front prop shaft and only get less than half as much drop as you would think?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can't drop the rear with how the rear mount affixes to the cross member. You can only drop the front mounts.

[@arnoldg.1424]

For the sway bar end links, you mentioned about getting longer ones. Where can I get longer end links? Thank you, great vid btw.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Here's a link to guy who makes them: www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-suspension-wheels-tires/160563-sway-bar-links-eugene.html

[@arnoldg.1424]

Timmy The Toolman wow thank you so much! I appreciate the help

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@arnoldg.1424 You're welcome Arnold.

[@jamaison1]

Where did you buy the OTC adaptors 538591 and 38354? I rented a ball joint press kit from Advanced and it does not have a long enough adaptor like the 538591 to press out the OEM ball joint. Also, have you installed an SPC upper control arm ball joint? Can it also be pressed in with the adaptors above? Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Those OTC adapters are hard to find. I think I got lucky finding a seller. There's another way you can go about removing the OEM balljoint. Check out this video to see how Sean and his buddy Chris did it when installing JBA control arms. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKClpaZphstoqNk

[@shahsmerdis]

Wow you guys rock :D you guys and your rust free state. All i have to say.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, we're pretty spoiled in California. Every time I see people post pictures of their undercarriage and they're from the rust belt of the country, I cringe at the thought of having to work on a rig with that much rust.

[@jazzylamel]

I have a question, is it really necessary to change the upper control arms as opposed to using the stock ones on the vehicle already for the 3-inch lift?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it's not necessary. However, aftermarket control arms will allow for better suspension travel, they are stronger than OEM, and they allow you to run wider tires if that's something you'd like to do.

[@jazzylamel]

Okay, I have 33x12.50x17 with a 3" lift on my 4Runner now, will this size put any strain on the stock upper ball joints? I plan on getting aftermarket upper control arms but have to save up and just want to make sure it's safe?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You'll be fine. I know of guys that wheel their trucks with stock UCAs and balljoints running 33's, however without wheel spacers your tires will rub your upper control arms.

[@williamwhitehead8362]

I see the sub total lift kit comes with silver springs for the front they're like 100 pounds heavier for the weight is that good for a Sequoia go to Sequoia

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, this lift is for a 3rd Gen 4runner so I don't know what's recommended for a Sequoia. Does Toytec sell a kit for a Sequoia?

[@cameronp5728]

ahhh you need a thru socket my friend.....and a good one. at least for those rear shock spindles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I guess a set of these through sockets with a flex head through socket ratchet would be nice. I think I will get me a set. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@cameronp5728]

@@TimmyTheToolman no problem. Let me suggest that I have a gear wrench set and one from O'Rileys. My gear wrench set broke on me with my first use....which saddens me. I've purchased alot of tools in the time I've been wrenching for about 10 years (not much) so take that with a grain of salt. Yes their are warranties. But meh who's got time for that lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@cameronp5728 I've had pretty good luck with Gear Wrench products so far and the price point is within the range I'm willing to pay for tools.

[@cameronp5728]

@@TimmyTheToolman if you were going to install a 3 inch suspension lift and remove a 2 inch body lift, what would you do first?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@cameronp5728 The 2 inch body lift will definitely assist you with access to the rear upper shock nuts so I'd install the lift first.

[@justinjohnson8921]

Thank you so much for making your vids!!!! you have saved me sh*t loads of money!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Justin and it's great to hear our videos are saving you lots of money. Thanks for taking the time to comment to let us know. Happy Wrenching!

[@brucewayne2773]

That was a long day of working and filming. Are you up in San Jose area? I have a Bendpak 2 post lift at my house with a 10 car garage here in San Luis Obispo. Watching you work on the ground is tough to see. I wish you have access to a lift , life is so much better with it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, San Jose. Must be nice to have a lift and a 10 car garage. You must have a decent size property for that. The only way I'll get a lift is to sell my house and buy something else with some land with a taller out-building. Normal home garages aren't tall enough for a lift. I will be leaving California when I retire and that will happen in the next couple of years. It's too expensive in California and the state is ran by idiots.

[@brucewayne2773]

@@TimmyTheToolman Agreed every thing about California. I just grew up here and love living by the coast. It's hard to leave. would love to see your new place with a proper lift in the future so you can get off that floor and see those jack stands collecting dust in a corner somewhere. I just ended up building a brand new home on an acre just finished a year ago, so you are right about land and having proper ceiling height for a lift. I have 20 feet tall ceiling for my lift in a rotunda .

[@rebeccacanfield478]

Hi, If I just wanted to take out the strut and coil can I just undo the lower control arm as you have done and leave everything else without affecting the wheel alignment? Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Be prepared to get an alignment after replacing any suspension components. If the struts are identical then maybe you will be ok, but keep in mind that after you have manipulated suspension comments you do have a likelihood that things will be slightly off. So again, be prepared to get an alignment.

[@jeremymurray9805]

I just put a 3" toytec rear coil lift on my 97 2WD 4runner,I'm pretty sure it lifted it more..did you measure the front to see how much lift you gained?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We never measured after the fact. The coils will settle some and it depends on the weight you plan on carrying too.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Great video brother,,,keep em coming!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like Israel.

[@thethreesixty155]

Do you have to change the control arms and add adjustable panhard and longer brake lines ? Or can everything oem still work with the lift ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You don't have to replace the upper control arm. But, if you want to run bigger tires, the lower profile UCAs like Total Chaos offer you the clearance you need without having to install wheel spacers. There are other options for the adjustable panhard bar and thats the weld on bracket you can add to lower the passenger side mount so you can get the rear end geometry correct again. There's actually a guy on T4R.org who designed a set of panhard brackets, a lift bracket on the driver side and drop bracket on the passenger side that keep the panhard bar at a better angle than just using a drop bracket on the passenger side. If you don't do anything with the panhard bar, your rear end is going to be pulled towards the passenger side. For the brake lines, you definitely should add a longer line for the central rear brake line. The lift stretches out the OEM brake line and when your rear end is articulating going 4 wheeling, you could stress that brake line and break it. The other brake line replacements are optional. Hope this helps you out.

[@torresharbin]

How was the ride after installing? Was it stiff?

[@bradleypalmer4286]

If you dont have aftermarket uca is it still necessary to get an alignment?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, you absolutely need to get an alignment after a suspension lift.

[@marvinmanansala3963]

Great video! I have the same lift as well, do I need a body mount chop also? Thanks in Advance!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

marvin manansala body mount chops are needed when the tire hits the body mount. This is more common with the 5th gen 4runners & 3rd gen Tacoma’s. Haven’t heard of any 3rd gen Toyota 4Runner needing a body mount chop as the body mount is tucked back in such a way where the tire doesn’t hit the body mount. The tire can hit the pinch weld inside the wheel well & this is the reason people rub their inner fender area & cut back the fender area to clear larger tires, but they don’t cut the body mount.

[@marvinmanansala3963]

Thank you!

[@julioarrecis666]

Timmy, always rocking with great videos!! , quick question i'm gonna lift my 97 sr5 bilstein 5100 front and rear, 883 in the front and 891 in the back, do i need a diff drop kit? if i do which one do you recommend? thank you so much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It depends who you talk to whether a diff drop is a good idea. Some dude made a video, that the diff drop lowers your clearance, which it does, and questions the benefits of going with a diff drop. I'm running one on mine with a 2.5" lift in the front. I think they are a good idea to limit the CV angle.

[@julioarrecis666]

Thanx a lot.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@julioarrecis666 You're welcome!

[@jackgordon4685]

Hi Tim, been following you for a while now, and love the videos and such as the extent of my mechanical experience is vastly video related, and they’ve helped an absolute ton! I’ve got a question though and was wondering if you could offer your input and experience in chasing down an issue with my 01 4Runner... I recently had a dealer install King trail tuned shocks, toytec super flex springs, uppers and a couple other odds and ends on my behalf (couldn’t do it myself due to a time and equipment restraint) and now when going over a speed bump or something similar that the front suspension is not engaged simultaneously, it feels like something is swinging under the drivers floor board... I don’t think this is an issue related to the lift so much as a stock component that has crapped the bed due to age and the addition of new parts functioning as they’re intended. The lift install seems to have been done correctly, and my first inclination is that I need (in no particular order and based on forum related research): Sway bar end links Sway bar bushings Something else This truck is my baby, and I wanna keep her on the road for another 275,000+ miles, so I’m willing to do whatever work she needs, but I don’t really trust the dealer that did the lift install (long story), and part of my desire to track down a third gen was to be able to work on it myself... If you’ve got any experience with similar symptoms and their solution, I’d be extremely grateful for any input or assistance!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jack, great to hear you have found our videos helpful. KZbin has definitely been a game-changer for DIY mechanics and we're happy to contribute to the DIY Mechanic Community. Happy Wrenching!

[@stonejordan710]

Awesome video! so helpful thank you. Which Panhard bar did you use for this truck? thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like the video. The panhard bar came from ToyTec.

[@AatAdam]

To extend the end links you just need to move the 3rd gen front to the rear and get 2nd gen front for the front

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip.

[@RejzhRusianaVlogs]

nice video sir

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. Glad you like it.

[@haunted_.]

27:02 “.....and now we’re fucked” LMAO I had the same thoughts when I installed my long travel kit. I was already pissed that I had to remove that bracket in the first place lol that fender well will get in the way regardless of if you lift the body, at least on my Tacoma it did

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I found the fender still got in the way a little when we shot the upper control arm bushing replacement video. Glad you found my commentary funny. Obviously, I'm far from being politically correct.

[@treebrother]

Great video. I'm leaning towards going with the UL-FJ3K - FJ Cruiser/4Runner Ultimate 3" lift package for my 2007 FJ..Is this the same lift you guys are installing? Also do you know if there is a difference between the silver or Red springs they offer for this lift other than color? Both say 600lb..

[@IINFAMOUSDEE]

It is not the same exact lift. The one you want to buy is the "Ultimate Lift" with Bilstein 5100 shocks & the BOSS lift has BOSS shocks. If they both say 600lb front springs, then there is no difference except color. If you want more specifics on ToyTec's products, you should give them a call. They have good customer service and staff to answer any questions. Happy wrenching!

[@treebrother]

Great thanks :-)

[@tanneremery4134]

Do you have to grease the new uca through the zirk fitting after you install them?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Since you greased them when you assembled them, you don't immediately have to grease them via the zerk fitting. But, it would be good to grease them during your regular maintenance intervals like when you change your oil and grease the zerk fittings on your driveshafts.

[@nyiajsawmchannel7373]

Good show

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks.

[@jake27schannel]

Were all the parts u used in this lift install included in the one kit or were there separate things u had to purchase

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jake, most of it was part of a kit. Here's a link to the ToyTec Boss Lift: www.toyteclifts.com/ttboss9602-boss-suspension-system-for-96-02-4runner.html The adjustable panhard bar was an add-on from ToyTec as well as the steel braided brake lines. The upper control arms came from the company Total Chaos.

[@onoslaya]

Did you guys adjust the front coilovers or did you leave it at the preset 2.5 inch lift?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We left them at the preset lift.

[@starvinDJ]

Hey mr. Tim how did this suspension hold up? I have an old 4Runner I'm fixing up with the 2.7 L. and I wanna up grade the suspension because it is shot.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No way to know because Eric rolled his rig not too long after we shot this and his rig was totaled. But, this Toytec suspension system should last a good long time.

[@starvinDJ]

@@TimmyTheToolman yeah it looks pretty fresh. i am thinking about upgrading my coil and shocks what do you think is a quality up grade? later on ill probably up grade to a long travel. while partying the whole time. haha if that makes sense.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@starvinDJ It's hard to give advice on suspension because there's so many choices. The Toytec lifts are good. OME makes nice stuff. Then there's higher end stuff like King, Icon and Radflo. Maybe the smart way to go about it is figure out what you're willing to spend and then go searching for something that fits your budget.

[@starvinDJ]

@@TimmyTheToolman awe nice! Thanks tim! I'm gonna check those out

[@iamoutofideas13]

Nice video. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Glad you liked the video.

[@077bbk]

When having 4WD Toyota FJ Cruiser 2" Front Lift Kit with Diff Drop , what is the spacer size 1" or 2" ???? do you advise to add sway bar relocation ??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Diff drops are usually 1 inch unless somebody made something custom. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by a sway bar relocation. Are you talking about the front or rear sway bar? For the rear sway bar, Sonoran Steel makes a lift bracket. This lift bracket is sort of crucial for people with e-locker rearends. Without the lift bracket, the sway bar can contact the e-locker motor and damage it.

[@franciscosoto221]

I need lowering my 2000 toyota 4runner 2 or 3inch let me know please and thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Lowering it 2-3 inches from stock height or do you want to reverse a lift kit that was installed before you bought the rig.

[@kelz8084]

Thats pretty high for a 3” suspension and 2”? Body lift. Looks good tho

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Most rigs are driving around with a 3 inch or less suspension lift. The 2 inch body lift makes the lift look way higher compared to most other lifted 3rd Gens on the road.

[@kelz8084]

@@TimmyTheToolman nice! I did my 2 inch body lift not to long ago and i just recently bought this suspension setup. Im waiting for it as we speak.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@kelz8084 Alright. Good luck with the install when it gets to you.

[@alexm8543]

With Total Chaos UCA, do you have to do anything special to LCAs in order to get camber right? Mine has too much of positive camber and Firestone (with their lifetime alignment) are saying that they can't go any more.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, you don't have to anything special. How much of a lift do you have in the front? If it's 3 inches or less, the alignment shop should be able to bring your camber very close to within spec. There is a chance that your cam adjusters are frozen into the bushing sleeve and that's why the tech is having difficulty getting the camber right. If that's the case, it's time to replace the bushings and you'll have to cut out the cam sleeves to get the LCAs off. Check out these two videos. The second one is where we show how to cut out the cam sleeves. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZ7Ei4F4pZaakK8 kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHfddnuvnM6tpas

[@alexm8543]

@@TimmyTheToolman I have a 3 inch lift up front with Billstein 5100s. My LCAs are brand new OEM.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@alexm8543 Well, from experience, they should be able to get the camber pretty close. Maybe try another alignment shop and see if they can do any better.

[@JesseVM]

Another great video! Is there a faster way to getting out that UBJ if you'll be replacing the UCA's at the same time? There's no way I'm getting that top castle nut off (covered in POR15). Any advice would be appreciated!

[@IINFAMOUSDEE]

If you can't get the castle nut off the top of the upper ball joint, I see two options. 1. cut it off with a sawzall or grinder or cutting disc to allow the upper ball joint/spindle assembly to fall through the hole of the upper control arm or 2. keep the spindle with the upper ball joint still attached to the upper control arm & remove that as a full unit after you take out that super long bolt that holds the UCA to the frame. Either way if you are NOT able to remove that castle nut, you will have to destroy the upper ball joint somehow to allow yourself to install the new upper control arm to the spindle after you remove the damaged UBJ. Are you installing aftermarket UCA's with uni-balls? or OEM UCA's with OEM upper ball joints?

[@JesseVM]

A mix actually haha! Aftermarket UCA's with ball joints as opposed to uni-balls. I thought about bringing out the death wheel and I'll probably use that since it takes 5 seconds. The UBJ's are shot anyways. They'd still have to be pressed out though?

[@IINFAMOUSDEE]

I've seen them be hammered in-&-out before with brute force, but why do that if you have access to a press setup? They can be rented for free (after a deposit) & are going to be integral in both pressing the ball joint out & back in properly, safely & to make it easier on yourself. You have to right have the right tool for the job, or be prepared to add more swear words to your vocabulary.

[@JesseVM]

Yeah that's true! This should be fun haha...just looked at the truck; some dumbass also painted over the abs bracket bolts (me). I'll definitely update with how large my vocabulary has grown after all this!

[@JesseVM]

Thanks for your help!

[@Terry-ww9tr]

Once again great video Timmy. Toytec lift is a nice setup although beyond safe limit for a 3rd gen. That body lift looks stupid and needs to go.... would love to see a picture with the bigger tires.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'd never put a body lift on my rig but some people like them so I figured we may as well make a video of it. I'll be meeting up with Eric again soon. If you want a picture, give me your email address and I'll send you one.

[@nickhoffman1743]

Tim, did you ever figure out if the 1 brake line that was the same length as OEM (drivers side I think) was in fact the correct size? I get that the other line is 4inches longer but has the original length line been an issue that you've heard of with the 3.75 inch coils?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I talked with ToyTec after making this video and they said that driver side brake line wasn't necessary to extend. It's only the center one that needs to be extended. So, the line they provided was the correct length according to them. It sure didn't seem like that when we did the install though. The guy we did the job for rolled his truck 4wheeling so I can't ask him if he had any feedback regarding that brake line.

[@3gjunkies955]

Timmythetoolman, i am installing my lift kit still and i am trying to fit the ball joint adapter onto the upper control arm and am having trouble getting the perfect fit. With the provided pivot of both uppr and lower control arms should i be able to get the fit? Or should i let the lower arm free for more movement? I am stuck

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not 100% sure what you are asking. Are you having trouble getting the special Total Chaos joint pressed into the steering knuckle or are you just having a hard time lining up that special joint with the upper control arm socket? If it's the latter, you can move that joint in the UCA to make it mate up with the special joint. Wrap a big screwdriver with some tape, stick it into the joint and then manipulate the screwdriver to move the joint the direction you need.

[@3gjunkies955]

Timmy The Toolman im not installing the same kit as u are in the video. Im installing stage 2 icon lift kit for my 3rd gen 4runner. There is a balljoint adapter that replaces the upper ball joint and that balljoint adapter fits into the new icon uca. Thats what im having trouble with im not sure if u know what im talking about

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@3gjunkies955 Yes, I know what you're talking about but I've never installed one so I'm not going to be any help to you. Maybe pose your question on T4R.org in the 3rd Gen section of the forum and I bet somebody will be able to help you.

[@shaolin29]

Awesome vid as always! I'm from the Bay Area as well and was wondering if you had any recommendations for trustworthy shops to do the same lift kit install for my 99?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. I don't know of any shops but I'm sure a Yelp search will point you in the direction of some that get good reviews from their customers.

[@bradleypalmer4286]

Im think of running 33" tires on my 98 runner. If i get a 3" lift with diff drop will i be good? Will the tire rub?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Brad Palmer 285’s should be fine with a 3” lift. The diff drop will only help you with your CV axle angles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It depends on the size tires you get. If you get wider tires, like 285s and don't get aftermarket UCAs or wheel spacers, you will rub the UCA. Also, if you have a stock front bumper, you could end up rubbing too with 33s.

[@bradleypalmer4286]

@@TimmyTheToolman ok thank you!

[@zh3717]

Hey Timmy, any suggestions on what to do about lengthening swaybar endlinks on a lifted (2-3") 3rd gen. Mine seem really tight after lifting. I disconnected them but with the extra weight I'm running the body roll is getting excessive. I've heard of some guys swapping rear 2nd gen links to the front of a 3rd gen but them some have brought up issues with the end links rubbing brake lines. SuspensionMAXX Sway Bar End Links SMX-1311L also looked like a cool option.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There are aftermarket end links that are longer that people will use after lifting. I've never heard of the issue with rubbing the brake lines. I'm currently running stock end links on my rig and mine is lifted 3 inches. If you do a Google search, you'll find some options for extended end links. There is a guy on T4R in the 3rd Gen section that makes extended end links. He goes by "MStudt". His end links might be an option for you. But, like you noticed, running with the sway bar disconnected isn't a good idea due to the excessive body roll.

[@zh3717]

@@TimmyTheToolman Great info much appreciated!

[@lukeneave]

Did you drop the bash plate after dropping the diff?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

With a front differential drop and the stock skid plate, you will need spacers to drop the skid plate a bit so the diff will clear the skid plate. With most aftermarket skid plate designs, the skid will clear the differential even though the differential has been dropped an inch. If I'm remembering correctly, we didn't put Eric's skid plate back on because he needed to get an alignment after the lift so we left it off. I know with a Sonoran Steel diff drop kit, he includes spacers for the stock skid plate.

[@Sentry1835]

great detailed video.....thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

John Scheffler You're welcome John. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@stuartarneaud218]

Hey great job thank

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Stuart and you're very welcome.

[@3gjunkies955]

What is exactly is that tool u are using to let the upper control arm free? Ive tried to find that right size and cant

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I take it you're talking about breaking the upper balljoint free of the upper control arm? If so, that tool is a 2 arm puller that's part of a Front End Service Kit made my OTC. Here's a link: www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_2?crid=CXF315EYBJHM&keywords=otc+front+end+service+set&qid=1549915239&s=automotive&sprefix=OTC+fron%2Caps%2C197&sr=1-2

[@3gjunkies955]

Timmy The Toolman thankyou man. To remove the upper balljoint from the spindle can i use a hammer or a tie rod puller? It seems very tough to remove, im not replacing ball joints so i dont think i need the kit u have.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@3gjunkies955 If you want to remove the upper balljoint from the steering knuckle, you'd want to use a balljoint press like we show in this video and our upper balljoint replacement video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6S8Y5SwrrF1q6s

[@markvaught8884]

How's he liking the suspension. im in the market for some right now.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Mark Vaught I'm not sure because I haven't talked with him in a long time. Based off what I've read on the Toyota forums, people like this lift just fine. Is it as good as a King or Icon setup? No, but it's a good mid market lift. You can spend ridiculous money on lifts. If I were you, I'd first ask myself whether I really need a lift for how I use my truck. If I don't really need.a lift, maybe just some replacement shocks is good enough. If you want a lift mostly for the looks, I wouldn't pour a bunch of money into expensive components. If you're actually going to wheel your truck hard, and you have money to burn, get a really nice setup.

[@alexm8543]

Hi Tim. I am changing out my suspension to ICON stage 4 from 5100s and my passenger side top nut is stuck on. Any suggestion on best way to break it loose? I tried vice grips (5 inch) on the piston rod but it spinning through still.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Alex, why are you bothering with your tearing apart your old coilovers? With an Icon stage 4 lift, you're swapping out your old coilovers for the Icon ones. All you need to do to remove your coilovers is remove the top (3) 14mm nuts and then disconnect the lower shock bolt and nut. You shouldn't be messing with the center nut. But, if for some reason you need to disassemble your old coilover, you need to have strut compressors compressing the spring enough that you take pressure off the top plate. Once you have safely compressed the spring enough, you can take off the nut off the shock spindle If the spindle is spinning when you try to remove the nut, you need to hold the spindle firm at the top with either a wrench or sandwich it in a bench vice. This means you can't use a socket to remove the nut, you need to use an open end or box end wrench, preferably a ratcheting box end wrench.

[@alexm8543]

@@TimmyTheToolman Hi Tim. This is in the Rear. Top Nut that is in the cup of the frame.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@alexm8543 Oh, gotcha. The Biltein shock spindles have a 5mm allen head on them. You get a flex head ratcheting box end wrench on first and then fit a 5mm allen wrench onto the spindle. You turn the spindle until the allen wrench is resting against a frame member to hold the spindle from spinning and then you can start using the box end wrench to remove the nut.

[@dannycorona7076]

how much was this lift kit? everything that is included

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We provide a link to Toytec in the video description. They have lots of choices for lifts. We did not buy the lift, Eric did and we're not in contact with him anymore.

[@onoslaya]

Hey Timmy, would you say it's alot easier/time saving to disconnect the lbj and the tierods vs using a bottlejack on the uca?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I actually like disconnecting the LBJ and tie rod from the LCA and then loosening the cam bolts a little so the LCA moves more and it's easier to get the lower shock bolt lined up. I don't use the bottle jack technique anymore.

[@onoslaya]

Thanks, always great content

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Happy Wrenching!

[@SuperDrhook]

When r u gonna do any Tacoma lift vids? I just recently came across your channel & enjoy watching them as I used to be a 3rd gen 4Runner owner but now I drive a 2nd gen taco I would love to watch how u instal an AAL for rear leaf springs one day for a Tacoma 👍🏽🙂

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jay, we actually had a lift video for a 1st Gen Tacoma but lost the footage when Sean accidentally dropped his external hard drive. We'll do another one at some point.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Thanks for responding!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Israel Rodriguez No problem Israel.

[@hugos.5059]

Timmy will 3 ton jacks work just as well as the 6 ton?? I guess Should’ve asked before I bought the 3 ton jacks.. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@TimmyTheToolman]

3 ton jacks will be strong enough but they will most likely not lift up high enough to support the truck at the frame rails when installing a lift. For the rear especially, you want to get the rear end up as high as you can so you can droop the rear axle enough on both sides to get the new taller spring in. I'm fairly confident the 3 tons jacks will come up short.

[@lowcountryadventures5549]

i go offroading a bit and i have a cheap spacer lift, should i save up and buy the boss or ultimate lift, is it rlly worth 1300 dollars. i mean thats a lot for a highschooler

[@TimmyTheToolman]

For most people, a lift isn't even necessary because they barely take it off-road. The fact remains that most people who lift their trucks just use them as pavement-pounders or do mellow fire roads that a passenger car could drive on. A lifted truck looks cool and I think that's the biggest motivating factor for most people. I you really like to off-road and want to tackle harder trails, a nice lift would be a good purchase along with bigger tires, sliders, armor, winch, straps, on-board air compressor, hi-lift jack, etc, etc. Outfitting for serious off-roading is expensive and then of course you end up breaking stuff because you're pushing your rig hard. If you don't have a bunch of money right now, just stick with your spacer lift and have fun screwing around fire roads and other places that you feel comfortable driving. I'd just concentrate on finishing high school and getting into a good college or trade school. Once you're making good money, you can spend tons of money on all kinds of cool shit for your rig.

[@jamesflores9456]

im also in high school what do you think of me putting tundra struts in my tacoma changing the top has of course

[@GYoung-dk5of]

See if your cool and have multiple 3rd gens you can beef one up to slid up and down on big rocks and save the other one for the daily , the fact that low country has one in high school means he has plenty of time to save up the second runner : )

[@gerardosanchez389]

by any chance can you tell me the torque specs for stock upper ball joints please?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The upper balljoint castle nut is torqued to 80 foot pounds.

[@gerardosanchez389]

Timmy The Toolman thank you sir

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Gerardo.

[@joshreed7102]

I did this lift about 3 years ago. The runner became squirrelly in high winds. Got any suggestions?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Josh Reed Hey Josh, no suggestions for you. Any vehicle can become squirrelly in high winds. With a lifted truck, your center of gravity is now higher and it will be less stable than a stock truck under windy conditons.

[@w00zyhead]

Perhaps a wider stance (rim spacers, mid or long travel) as well as polyurethane bushings for a stiffer flex all around (tie rods, control arms steering rack). This is just my guess but in racing application these implementations help for greater control.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Timmy are there any negative results aftr some time, when u put a lift like this on a 4runner. Do u have to replace any other parts l8tr on bc the lift did harm.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The most common problem after a lift is the CV boots are prone to tear because they are at a new angle and the old boots can't handle it. Also, because the CV axles are at a steeper angle, the boot ribs can rub together and the friction can cause a tear much sooner than you'd care for. A differential drop can help with the CV angles but the boots can still end up rubbing together. Some people use an aftermarket boot that can slide further down the shaft to spread out the boot ribs or you can do what we show in our CV Axle Reboot video and do a boot stretch with the OEM boots. Another common one is the new angle of the rear driveshaft causes the u-joints to operate at a new angle and they don't like it. It's pretty common to have a u-joint issue shortly after a lift as well. Depending on the lift kit you buy will determine what else you might have to replace. If you get a lift like we installed in this video, it addresses most things like the differential drop, adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rearend, extended bump stops and extended brake lines. One thing this kit doesn't address is extended end links for the front and rear sway bar. When you do a suspension lift, you should buy longer end links to take stress off the sway bar and allow the proper amount of articulation. And, after suspension lifts, people start noticing new creaks and squeaks and other weird noises because you've now changed the vehicle from stock and control arms and other suspension components decide they want to act up. When you start traveling down the road of doing modifications, you have to be prepared to have issues that follow. The safest bet is to leave it stock but then you don't look cool with your lifted truck cruising through the mall parking lot. ;-)

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Is a body lift less problematic than a suspension lift, or even different for tht matter???

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A body lift causes different issues mainly electrical and other hose and line connections get tighter when you raise the body. The consensus is a 2" body lift is the max before you have to start modifying the length of those things I mentioned above.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

So i could actually get a 2in. (body) lift and not have any problems with other parts?!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, as part of the lift, you have to drop the radiator down a couple inches with a bracket. The front bumper will end up with a 2 inch gap above the bumper and you can either leave it as is, make new bumper brackets or drill new holes so the bumper bolts up closer to the body like before.

[@kosmonautfpv4920]

Hey tim!! Great video. Ive been think8ng about doing this. Already got the total chaos stuff on! Just wondering if the extended brake lines are absolutely needed for this. Ive been running a 2" bilstein lift for about 2 years on my 2000 sr5 and had no issues with the brake lines and I wheel pretty hard here in CO. thanks again for the awesome videos

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Sam, I think the extended brake line is a good idea. With a 3" or more lift in the rear, that rear brake line will be close to maxed out when the rear end is in full droop.

[@kosmonautfpv4920]

@@TimmyTheToolman good to know! Could I get away with just the rear? Thanks tim!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@kosmonautfpv4920 The rear center brake line is the only one that's extended. All the others are just steel braided replacements that are the same length as OEM.

[@tylermccoy2020]

How is longevity for this toytec boss suspension? Do the shocks last as long as OEM?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Tyler, I really have no idea. I don't even know how long they have been producing these ToyTec Boss shocks. It would be nice to read people have been running them for 100,000 miles with no issues but I suspect nobody has had them on their rig for that long. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Maybe do a Google search and share with me what you find out.

[@jasoncameron186]

I have the ToyTec Ultimate Coil Over on my 2010 5th Gen and just turned 129K miles not a single issue, just tore my first CV Axle Boot last week which has thankfully been my only issue. I used the SPC Light Racing UCA, second set of upper Ball joint going in next week.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jason, we have a video for rebooting CVs. The removal on the 5th Gen will be a little different but maybe the reboot will be the same. Here it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJSmhWeLnKuIitk

[@jasoncameron186]

Yes Sir, Already watched and liked it....!

[@emmanuelgoncalves3462]

Do you have a link to the product? Nice runner!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

www.toyteclifts.com/ttboss9602-boss-suspension-system-for-96-02-4runner.html

[@bobbybrwn]

how would you grease the actual uniball?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Total Chaos recommends a spray lubricant called Tri-Flow. It was designed for bicycle applications. It's basically a dry lube teflon spray so you could use other brands as well as long as it's a dry lube teflon based lubricant. If I had those upper control arms, I'd just keep a can of it with me in the rig. I guess you'd want to clean up the area with a spray of water or wipe it with a rag and then spray the lubricant on. The uniball is suppose to be self-lubricating because it rides on a teflon coated sleeve but I've heard a spray every so often will keep them in better shape.

[@sledgehammer7998]

Timmy, do you have links for the OTC items that you used? I searched for the part numbers but couldn't find anything. I like when links for the parts are in the description, most of the time I want to get those tools. Thanks as usual.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This is what I bought. I bought them through the Coastal Tool Supply company. www.coastaltoolsupply.com/ 1) OTC 538591 - Adapter, Removing - $20.89 2) OTC 38354 - Receiving Cup - $24.38 3) OTC 314392 - Plug - $9.55 4) OTC 38355A - Installing Cup - $25.25 5) OTC 313968 - Remover - $10.43 6) OTC 7249 - Ball Joint Service Set - $104.35 Thanks for the reminder. I put this info in the video description. p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; color: #676767; -webkit-text-stroke: #676767} span.s1 {font-kerning: none} td.td1 {width: 60.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td2 {width: 235.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td3 {width: 65.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td4 {width: 68.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; color: #676767; -webkit-text-stroke: #676767} span.s1 {font-kerning: none} td.td1 {width: 60.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td2 {width: 235.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td3 {width: 65.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td4 {width: 68.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; color: #676767; -webkit-text-stroke: #676767} span.s1 {font-kerning: none} td.td1 {width: 60.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td2 {width: 235.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td3 {width: 65.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td4 {width: 68.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; color: #676767; -webkit-text-stroke: #676767} span.s1 {font-kerning: none} td.td1 {width: 60.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td2 {width: 235.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td3 {width: 65.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} td.td4 {width: 68.0px; margin: 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px 0.5px; padding: 5.0px 20.0px 5.0px 20.0px} p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; color: #676767; -webkit-text-stroke: #676767} span.s1 {font-kerning: none}

[@sledgehammer7998]

Awesome! Thank you sir.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just know that Coastal Tool Supply can be slow at getting you the tools you ordered. I'd call them before ordering and give them all the OTC part numbers you want to see if they have it in stock. At the time I ordered, they didn't have everything I wanted in stock and I think I waited almost 3 weeks to get everything in. They're a good company and have competitive prices. If you're not in a hurry to get these parts, I'd recommend ordering through them, especially since they were the only ones I could find that could piece what I wanted together without having to order larger and more expensive kits to get all the pieces I needed.

[@williamwhitehead8362]

They sell a kit for Sequoia 2000 to have a kit for the red springs on the shock which are 600 pound and they have a silver set of coils on the shop that are 700 pounds I don't know I know I don't know him well just me

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ok, well they offer heavier springs for people with aftermarket things added like bumpers, winch, armor underneath and maybe a roof rack with a roof top tent. You want to match the springs to the weight you'll be carrying. If you call Toytec, they can help you decide. The guys there are pretty good about answering questions. But basically, if you aren't running aftermarket things that will be making your rig heavier, go with the lighter weight springs because the ride will be harsh with heavy springs on a stock weight rig.

[@HafsteinnHafsteinsson]

Wouldn't a lot of this have been easier if the knuckle had just been removed and worked on a bench? I mean the lower BJ and tie rod had already been undone. No need to have everything hanging on the brake line.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@HafsteinnHafsteinsson Good observation. I used that method when replacing an upper ball joint for someone else.

[@gidb]

if the front was a 3" lift and the rear was 3.75" lift is it not leveled?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

From what remember, it had a little positive rake (rear higher than the front) but for the most part it was fairly level.

[@gidb]

Timmy The Toolman thanks! looking through alot of lift kits I think toytech is worth it's price, your videos do help out alot! i love to get a good reference on what's ganna go down when I do upgrades like this.I was planning on going trd spring with bli5100 but i might as well save abit more $ and get a good setup! not that there's anything wrong with that setup

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's so many different ways to go with lifts and I guess the Toytec lift is somewhere in the middle when it comes to the money you can spend lifting these rigs. If you wanted to spend crazy money, those Icon, King, or Fox lifts can run you more than you spent buying your 3rd Gen used.

[@gidb]

Timmy The Toolman yea for the price of just the front set up for icon, you can get coilovers kit with upper arm, brake lines and adj lateral for the same price! but like you said it's a mild setup for both on and off and I'm sure people would consider buying kings and icons cause they want the "best"

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The sad thing though is some of these people investing a ton of money into their suspension barely take their rigs off-road. You don't need $5000 in suspension upgrades to cruise the mall parking lot but I guess you sure look good doing it. I take my rig off-road a decent amount mostly on fire roads to access camping and mountain biking locations and I do it with stock suspension. I'm toying with the idea of dumping some money into a suspension upgrade for mine but I can't make a decision on how much money I want to drop on it and whether I really need it as opposed to wanting it.

[@M1kel-Ferg]

whats the torque spec for the long bolt UCA?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's 87 ft-lbf

[@josebedon4294]

Thank you so much guys you videos the war Todd Barry good for me but quick question which gone now with AF flashlight guy 😆😆😆

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Jose Bedon Hey Jose, I understand you like our videos. The rest of your message is hard for me to understand what you're trying to say.

[@justroll2892]

Just curious, could you have used a spring compressor to install the taller rear springs instead of going through the trouble of lowering the whole rear axle?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's been done by people and it works. You just have to have the spring compressors in the right position so you can get on the screw bars with a tool to release them. In the video, it was the brake line on the driver side that held us up. If I were to install a lift like this again, I would release the brake line so I could get more movement of the axle housing to get the spring in. With a lift like this, you're usually adding extended brake lines anyway so it's not like you're adding a lot of extra work. I compressed some rear springs on a 5th Gen 4runner for a friend who wanted to remove some 10mm spacers. I wanted to use my impact gun to compress them to make it easier so I had to get the compressors in the right spot so I could still have a straight shot with the gun onto the screw bars. The spring can only go in one way with the bottom end of the spring against the mount on the axle. I'd check to see where you could put the compressors opposing each other that would give you the most room to turn a wrench to release the compressors once they're in position. Obviously, an air or cordless impact will make this much easier on your arms.

[@aarondetwiler4162]

I saw that other 10mm at 55 min some odd sec. lol. that's funny.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, Sean usually adds some funny stuff but you have to be paying attention to notice it.

[@jimenagulla9081]

Love my rock island 10mm !!!