TPM - How to Clean Your Rifle Barrel - Step by Step with Discussion Points

This was another video in response to the awesome interactions we've been having in the comments section. Keep it up!
Gun cleaning can seem complicated... so many solvents, so many brushes, patches, and jags.... so many methods. My advice, make it simple. Don't clean your rifle until it needs to be cleaned, and even then, less is more. Let the rifle tell you it needs to be cleaned.
Products used:
Wipe Out Patch Out
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Bore Tech Cleaning Rod
amzn.to/3xh8UiV
Tipton Carbon Fiber Cleaning Rod
amzn.to/3RzbSZ8
Bore Tech Universal Bore Guide
amzn.to/3wVqIzR
Ballistol
amzn.to/3K0D8yf
Thanks for watching!
-TPM
#longrange #sendit #tpm #longrange triggeredprecision #accuracy #fewwillhunt #manners #nightforce
‪@defiancemachine‬
‪@RifleStocks‬
‪@nightforceoptics‬

[@frankgulla8782]

Thank you! Finally someone who knows what he's taking about.there's a guy on you tube who has a gun channel who states copper fouling is a lie! Obviously this title is click bait but he goes on to theorize how the copper is plating the imperfection in the barrel! And this guy is not some young newbie, crazy how people reason . You just got a subscriber, thanks and good shooting/hunting.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thank you sir. There are a lot of opinions out there, some accurate, others less accurate. Thanks for subscribing! Welcome aboard.

[@gc5Hayward]

My friend your common sense approach is the new super power! No witch magic is needed. Right On! Keep them small-groups that is.👍🏾

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thank ya sir, sometimes we overcomplicate things. Taking a step back and looking at things logically helps. Thanks for watching.

[@TheAfrobandit]

Amazing video - Concise, no nonsense and great quality. The best video on the topic 👍

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Wow, thanks!

[@kevinjohnson-vd7cb]

Great video, thanks for sharing

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thanks for watching!

[@tarzan30809]

Perfect! Excellent method

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thank you!

[@dogbone1358]

I use a bore guide for every rifle I own and a Tipton cleaning rod exclusively. I had a coated metal rod and the coating eventually started wearing off. It’s fiberglass only for me. Great video!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I love those Tipton rods, I was late to the game in discovering them but wow are they nice.

[@patdennis3751]

Also, for those using a Lyman guide, 30 seconds with a case neck reamer will cut a chamfer in it and get rid of the sharp edge that cuts the rod. I've since switched to a plastic guide after the aluminum Lyman gouged up an expensive carbon fiber rod.

[@ralphfrench2924]

Great video, no bs , gun cleaning is such a can of worms , it seems like every shooter has a system . Personally I like your philosophy and that’s pretty close to how I run my cleaning , except I do use a brush . Thanks for the info on the crown, never really thought much about how important that portion of cleaning can disrupt accuracy. 🇺🇸👍🏼

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

From what I've seen, damaged crowns due to improper cleaning practices are pretty common. I started using bronze brushes then switched to nylon, now I only use a nylon brush if I really need to. Some of those fast little cartridges like 22-250, 22 Creedmoor, etc., can foul up pretty good so I'll attack it with a brush and copper solvent, unscrewing the brush each time it passes through the muzzle.

[@billcarlson852]

I use the same cleaning agents. The only thing I do different than you is finish with a good barrel oil to STOP the cleaning agents... Then 3 - 4 dry patches to remove all oil, cleaning agents.... Good video. Just subscribed

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thank you sir! I talked to BoreTech employee who told me they recommended leaving a light coating of eliminator in the bore. He mentioned it will continue to work to a point, then it actually serves to keep corrosion out of your bore. I'm not sure if this is public knowledge or not, or just his personal observation. I've done it both ways and really don't see a difference. I am with you though, when it comes to my rifles that I plan on storing for a while. I will run a patch of Ballistol down the barrel after to keep it nice.

[@DanielBoone337]

I've pretty much gone to all Bore Tech cleaning solvents also but I'll lightly hit the barrel with some abrasives if it's really bad and patch everything out in the end with some 99.9% alcohol. I use a bore scope to ensure I got everything out because just relying on the color of the patch can be deceiving. That's just what I like to do but I've seen enough evidence that tells me keeping a spotless clean barrel isn't as important as I once thought. I'm loving the videos man keepem coming!!!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Love the idea of using alcohol to get rid of the abrasives and cleaner in the bore, I have done the same in the past. I love the Bore Tech products, but I will also use JB bore paste on my rimfire rifles, I've found that to be a good way to increase accuracy in rimfire rifles during the first few cleanings. I did that on my Vudoo V22 / Lilja barrel and that rifle doesn't foul whatsoever. Other .22 rifles I have, including some custom shop Anschutz's rifles I have still foul after a couple hundred rounds and the accuracy will degrade. I have yet to go through the process of polishing the bore with JB, but that is on the agenda for those rifles. I occasionally break out the bore scope as well just to confirm I'm having the desired results when I clean my center fire rifles. Thanks for watching, I have some really fun videos planned for the near future. -Shawn

[@misterlewgee8874]

After many attempts to remove carbon with boretech carbon remover with, patch, then nylon then copper brushes...I've resorted to cautious use of jb paste. Hopefully regular cleaning with borescope will prevent such a build up that's very hard to remove in future...and not need to jb paste again

[@1clnsdime1]

A couple other good places for a small dab of grease are the bolt cooking ramp and initial extraction ramp.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Great point, thanks!

[@derekmcmurry4263]

I use Lucas bore guides and Boretech rods as well. Glad I bought a bunch of Lucas guides years ago. Regarding the chamber, I use the same 12" rod but use an old brush, cut a paper towel in half and tightly roll it over the brush and insert into the chamber and rotate it as well. Very snug fit and absorbs any cleaning agents. As far as brushes go, I push them out of the muzzle, spray them with brake cleaner thoroughly, the slowly bring them back through the barrel. I've not seen any accuracy or barrel degradation using this method but it does require cleaning outdoors. I used to not use brushes but then realized a LOT of carbon remains if I only used patches/jags even though they were coming out white. The brush agitates the stuck carbon, and in my opinion and experience a brush is necessary if I want my barrels really cleaned. This is evidenced via borescope. Great video

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I wish I would have bought more of those Lucas bore guides.... Hindsight is 20/20. I may grab some delrin and start making my own and offering them for sale or as an option for the rifle packages I sell. That sounds like you are addressing the real issue of dragging the brush across the crown, which is passing the hard carbon particles over the crown edge. Smart. I'll have to try that out. Which brushes are you using?? I started out many, many years ago using bronze brushes, then went to nylon brushes, now rarely use either, but certain calibers do occasionally necessitate a good scrub with a brush. I do a "major"cleaning on all my bolt action rifles, usually following hunting season or the competition season. I'll pull the barreled action out of the stock, clamp it in a vise and really do a good job of cleaning the bore, action, and trigger group. At this time I will break out the bore scope and inspect the bore for signs of throat erosion, carbon or copper fouling or any other oddities. Good stuff. Thanks for the contribution. -Shawn

[@derekmcmurry4263]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I use good brushes, both bronze and nylon, I keep about 50 on hand of each in several calibers. I buy boretech, I think Pro-shot, whatever good brand I can find. However, there's an old video on KZbin where a guy interviewed Mr. Krieger at a shot show and he stated something to the effect of, "I never understood why anyone would use a brush in a barrel. You're just lapping it more." Mr. Shilen told me he has rifles where the bores look like copper pipes but shoot less than 1/2 min MOA so no need to clean yet. It's preference as far as I'm concerned and for whatever reason, I like my barrels cleaned to bare metal if I can do it. If I ruin it, then I'll just replace it. Hasn't happened yet though. By the way, I did go visit your website. I'm REALLY hoping you consider making bolt actions. Demand is so high all the current makers can't keep up! Last thought - if you do decide to clean your barrel outdoors and spray your brushes, MAKE SURE YOUR SCOPE COVERS ARE ON. I've seen so many people demo how they do it and the wind just blows the mist off the brushes right back to the objective lens

[@derekmcmurry4263]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I really hope you do make bore guides and duplicate the Mike Lucas guides! I'll buy them!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I've also heard the stories of shot out barrels, majorly copper fouled barrels, etc. shooting sub 1/2 MOA groups. I can't say I've seen any evidence in the 10's of thousands of rounds a year I fire that would confirm the contrary. A lot of people simply don't know how to properly clean their rifles and have a higher chance of doing damage than anything that will help their rifle. I think it stands that there is no real evidence that any of it is better than the other. If you know how to properly clean your rifle barrel and that is what you need to do as a part of your routine, that is extremely important and there is nothing wrong with that. I know folks who spend hours cleaning every last bit of copper out of their barrels, only to find they don't shoot any better or worse than they did before they were cleaned. But, its part of their post shooting routine and they aren't doing any damage so no problemo. Thanks for the comments, much appreciated!!! -Shawn

[@toddb930]

That's a really good run down and demonstration. I do much of what you do and with the same solvents, rod, and bore guide. I still use a nylon brush and remove it from the rod when it exits the muzzle, like you suggested. I like to clean after 75 to 150 rounds so that I keep on top of the carbon build up. If you're going to store a rifle for several months, or more, do you put anything in the bore to prevent corrosion?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thanks Todd. Yup, some rifles like to be cleaned A LOT.... My old 22-250 like to be cleaned in less than 100 rounds , same with my old 300 Norma Mag. It sounds like our cleaning procedures are nearly identical. Great minds.... 😁 Bore Tech products are OK to leave in the bore and do prevent corrosion, but if I know I'm storing a rifle for a while, I will dry the bore as good as possible then run a wet patch of Ballistol through the bore. I love that stuff. -Shawn

[@alifonso1981]

I don’t known who to believe… One person says to go with Hoppes and a bronze brush, other person says Bore tech, There’s a guy swearing by thinner and I’m sitting here trying to clean and maintain my first ever rifle that I haven’t shot yet!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Lots of information out there. I can tell you the old school Hoppe's #9 (not the benchrest stuff), doesn't do much at all for copper fouling. Don't over think it, grab some Bore Tech, Wipe-Out Patch-Out or some other safe, reputable cleaner and give it a go. Biggest thing is don't get too wrapped around the axel about it, have fun shooting!

[@marcuspierantozzi]

I've never used the Boretech Eliminator or Copper Remover but I have used the Boretech Chameleon Gel.. its probably the best product I've ever tried!!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

You have my attention. I’ll grab a bottle. Next video is going to be an addendum to that cleaning video, I have a little experiment I’ve been working on. 🤣

[@Dachszange]

Awesome... 👍 So how do you deal with fouling shots on you hunting rig? Do you tend to see any deviation at all after cleaning? And how do you go about it?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Very awesome question! In the sniper world we had two things that we would religiously keep track of... Cold Bore POI (CB), and Cold Clean Bore POI (CCB). Those two are just as they sound, the point of impact in relation to your point of aim for your first shot of the day (CB), and your POI vs POA for your first shot of the day with a freshly cleaned rifle barrel. I also keep track of this on my hunting rifle and make the decision to set out on a hunting trip with a clean bore or fouled bore depending on what I see the rifle do at the range. I'd say 90% of the time, I will hunt with a fouled bore, meaning, I run to the range just before leaving on a trip and shoot a half dozen or so rounds. That serves to foul the barrel, confirm your avg. velocity, and confirm your zero. Some rifles have a large deviation in the POI for their CB and CCB shots, and some do not. I've really never been able to pinpoint why that is... there are so many variables to test there. Luckily, my hunting rifles don't have too large of a deviation, but I still incorporate that into my firing solution if it's a longer distance shot (greater than 500 yards). Hope that answers. Thanks for watching. -TPM

[@ChadCooper03]

Would you use bore tech eliminator on ARs too? In regards to cleaning BCG and upper receiver. Or should I stick with normal Hoppes 9 for AR? Thanks as always!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I love Eliminator for BCG's. Wipe it down with some solvent and let it set for a little bit. I do love the smell of good old Hoppes #9 😁

[@ChadCooper03]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc Roger that. Thanks for answering my comments, you’re always on top of things!

[@michaeldinapoli1738]

Great video. One question: you and others have mentioned not cleaning their rifle bore until accuracy falls off or several hundred rounds. In this setting, is any bore treatment used after each firing sequence - ie. Is the barrel dry patched to remove ash and dirt and/ or oiled with a patch to prevent rust, or is the bore just left dirty?? What if the rifle may not be shot for several months or longer? I clean and oil my rifle bores after every use because I can not be sure how long it will be before they are shot again. Thanks

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

For rifles that I'm regularly shooting, I do nothing to the bore after shooting sessions, unless I'm shooting in foul weather or something happened that requires me to clean. For the rifles I take out and shoot occasionally, If I have any reason to believe it will be stored for more than a month or two, I will throw a couple patches soaked in Kroil or Ballistol down the barrel, but is this required and do I do it every time, nope. 100% of my bolt guns have stainless steel barrels and my gas guns have chrome lined CHF barrels also so corrosion isn't a huge consideration even though certain grades of stainless can and will oxidize. A quick once over with some oiled patches through the bore and a nice wipe down on the outside surfaces is not a bad practice at all, especially if your guns are stored in a non-climate controlled place or you live in a humid / sea air environment. Sounds like you have a good routine that isn't doing any damage.

[@greg6264]

Thanks, great video. I have a break in question. You shared that a single box of 20 rounds while sighting it in is all that's really needed. You also said something about this rifle having ... I think you said 90 rounds ... through it and that it was not fully broke in. That might not be an exact quote, but I think you said something like that. Could you please expand on this a little? I'm new to all of this and just purchased my first decent rifle. I'm getting ready to sight it in and am trying to decide what I want to do for break in. It's got a Proof carbon wrapped stainless steel barrel (7 PRC). Thanks again!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I consider "break in" to be two separate animals. The first 20 rounds serve to iron out any burrs left from the rifling and chambering process. Sure, more rounds will smooth things out more, but if the barrel is of good quality and the smith had good machining practices, those first 20 rounds should do the trick. Many people will argue to use a strict protocol of shoot one, clean, shoot one clean, or something of that nature, for the first few rounds. There has never been any proof that this does anything to prolong the life of the barrel or increase accuracy. It just takes time. Now the second part of the "break in" I was referring to are the changes in the bore that take place in the subsequent rounds. What we see in the next 50-200 rounds (this can vary widely), is *usually* a velocity increase and possible an accuracy increase. This is the throat and bore getting smoothed out from being shot. There is no way to predict the number of rounds for the barrel to fully stabilize so this is generally accepted and monitored by match shooters who need to be aware of the velocity changes. Hopefully that makes sense, if you have any other questions, feel free to email me.

[@greg6264]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc Makes perfect sense. Thank you!

[@runningwolf8115]

great video . i was wandering when I have gone 20 round and I clean it I do not have to clean my rifle again when I go shooting ? I can put my rifle away with the powder left in the barrel and that will not harm the rifle. the only time I need to clean it his when I lose accuracy. sorry for asking this but english is not my first language I am Cree native from Canada

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Hey buddy! I kind of determine that on a case by case basis. If its a rifle I shoot frequently, 99% of the time I will just wipe it down with some CLP and throw it in the safe. It its a rifle that I know won't come out of the safe for months, I'll clean it up for no reason other than its nice to not wonder if the barrel is in need of cleaning when it comes out. A couple things to keep in mind. I'm referring to bolt action rifles above. If you are shooting a semi auto, or even a suppressed semi-auto, those get dirty as a much, much faster interval and get cleaned much more frequently. Also, if you are shooting a rifle with a steel barrel, I would at the very least run a wet patch of CLP through that barrel after shooting and before storing. Those will be prone to rust and oxidation significantly more than a good quality stainless steel barrel. As long as you are shooting good quality, modern ammo with non-corrosive primers and powder, you don't have to worry about major oxidation with stainless barrels. It can still oxidize depending on the environment it's stored in, but I've never seen a barrel ruined by it. I've had some rifles in the shop (factory remington's with stainless sporter barrels) that were legitimately never cleaned in their life. No high round count because they were hunting rifles, but never cleaned over the several years they were owned. The barrels cleaned up fine and looked perfect in the bore scope. With the bolt action rifles I shoot alot, like my match rifles, I still go by the "clean when accuracy falls off" method. My cleaning intervals right now for my 6 BRA match rifle are about every 400 rounds. I don't notice any increased difficulty in getting the barrel clean at this point and accuracy never goes above 3/8" or so. Thanks for watching, I hope that helps.

[@fbwguy]

Great information! I’ve always used bronze jags, now I will be looking for aluminum. Do you know if anyone sells a set, or buy individually?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I love them! They really are a game changer. I used to use Sweets 7.62 a lot for rifle cleaning and that stuff would always give me bright blue patches with traditional bronze jags. I buy them from MidwayUSA but you can buy direct from Bore Tech of Montana Extreme I believe. I've never seen them in sets, I just buy a couple for each caliber I load and they last darn near forever.

[@johnharris-pn5vy]

A rifle barrel and teeth have some things in common, you brush your teeth with a abrasive tooth paste the right way , your teeth don't wear out , but you go 100-200 days with out brushing they rot away and don't function , a rifle barrel is the same way , if you don't clean it right way it rots away and does function right for nearly as long

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I mentioned this in another post, until last year, I was shooting an average of 20k rounds a year. Most of that through my AIAX chambered in .308 Win. which I would go through 2 barrels a year. I was absolutely religious about documenting every nuance about that rifle and its performance. I still have the logs somewhere even though those barrels are long gone to precision rifle heaven. I never did any formal break in on any of those barrels, they were all heavy (M24) contour barrels cut at either 18" or 20", they were from either Krieger, Hawk Hill or Bartlein (no preference), and they all shot better than what I was capable of doing from a bipod and rear bag. One of the benefits to shooting this much (150-250 rounds a week), was I could play with small variables in barrel cleaning. I grew up shooting fast barrel burners like the 22-250, etc so I was always in the mindset that the barrel needed to be completely cleared of copper and carbon fouling. As I started to shoot more and more, I cleaned my barrels less and less. I'd estimate I've gone through well over 50 barrels in the last 10 years alone so its a fairly decent sample size. I first stopped using bronze brushes and went to nylon brushes. No change in accuracy, ES/SD, or anything. Then I ditched the nylon brushes when I got away from the old Hoppes #9 and started using the goooooood bore cleaning products like Bore Tech, Sweet's, KG, and Wipe Out. Again, no change in accuracy. Then I started letting the cleaning intervals span a few hundred rounds after talking to some match shooters. No change in accuracy. Finally, I started to let the rifle tell me when it needed to be cleaned. I would routinely go 1000 - 1400 rounds between cleanings, and sometimes that was only because the rifle got wet at training or a match. With the last two 308 barrels, I had close to 8k rounds on each when they were replaced, and both were still shooting sub .5" groups at 100. A bore scope confirmed the expected throat erosion and presence of copper fouling. I'm not sure how I can explain why they still shot so good, but they sure did. I shoot a lot of 300 Norma Mag and 30 Nosler right now and I use the same process. After a lot of experience with these rounds, I know they start to open up around 100 rounds (Norma) and 200 rounds (Nosler). They also copper foul more than the .308 barrels and the Norma has a bad tendency to build a carbon ring in the throat / land junction. These barrels get addressed accordingly and the accuracy comes right back, every time. The question is, would I see longer cleaning intervals if i scrubbed the bore more and got every bit of copper out? I doubt it. Its been proven that copper fouling in and of itself does not detract from accuracy, in fact, lots of people firmly believe this increases accuracy. I fall in the middle somewhere. The short of it is, I think every setup is different and it all depends on the barrel make, chamber pressure, velocity, use (long strings of fire during a match, or slow recreational shooting). If you are cleaning your barrel as a part of your post shooting routine and that is what works for you, then keep doing it. I don't see anything wrong with any of the methods, and I've come across some pretty odd ones in my time. There is no set standard for these cleaning procedures, just known waays you can reduce the chance of harming your rifle during the cleaning process. That was long winded, but this is a very interesting topic to me and I've loved hearing the different opinions. I don't shoot quite as much now days but I still get out to send a considerable amount of lead downrange. I'd like to set up a little experiment and get some hard data on this. I'm in the process of building a rifle vice for proofing rifle accuracy that will take the human input out of the equation and show whats really going on. When I get this done, I will put together a test over a period of time and see what I come up with. Thanks again for the great input. I really appreciate hearing people's opinions. It makes me thing and question my own practices which is what we all should be doing in the quest for perfection. Thanks! Shawn

[@johnharris-pn5vy]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc it's all about learning , both my 6.5 are custom but for hunting , like to shoot them out to 1000 , makes 3-400 seem easy when hunting

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

People bad mouth the 6.5 Creed constantly which I don't understand. It's a phenomenal cartridge for target shooting and a great cartridge for hunting as well. I love my 6.5's - you are right on, anything under 400 is like cheating on steel or big game. They actually do surprisingly well out to a mile. Pretty fun watching the trace on the right day and waiting for an impact after that long flight time. 😁

[@jimlerum]

I’ve just have been struggling with the carbon buildup with LeverEvolution loads. Almost spending more time cleaning than shooting.

[@billcarlson852]

Especially in smaller calibers ie 6 arc, 6 Creedmoor. ...I have the same result.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Interesting! I've had carbon rings build up near the throat that trow off accuracy and cause a pressure spike. Check out a dedicated carbon fouling solvent, I'm not sponsored by Bore Tech, but check this out: www.boretech.com/products/c4-carbon-remover I have buddies who use that for their rifles with the copper remover, instead of using the all-in-one eliminator. I've been meaning to pick up a bottle. Try that with a patch first, and let it work to dissolve the carbon before you run another patch through. It that doesn't work, try a nice, good fitting nylon brush.... just don't drag it back over the crown. I've been there, it is very frustrating. sometimes as the barrel breaks in, they foul less, but then again, some rifles just foul badly no matter what. The powder Hornady is using in the LeverEvolution may be the culprit also... Good luck!

[@AthensArmory303]

Great video, after the break in, what is your scheduled bore service? I have been following the theory of equilibrium, or basically dont over clean the bore. Shoot until you start seeing group sizes opening up. That has worked for me so far, but like everything, the debate is fierce. Thanks

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

That is exactly my procedure as well. Only clean when the groups open up, I use the rifle in bad weather, or something else that would require a cleaning. So far it works pretty good. I've gone well over 1,000 rounds on a .308 Win without cleaning and had zero change in group size or performance. Thanks for watching!

[@AthensArmory303]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc How mant rounds do you fire before you consider a barrel broke in?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thats a tricky question. A barrel can take anywhere from 0 to a few hundred rounds to truly "break in." This is evident by an increase in accuracy, stabilization of velocity, and higher velocity. This is different on every barrel which is why I have no set "break in procedure." Everyone has there own definition of broke in, lol. This is a hotly debated topic. If I'm doing load development on a new rifle it automatically gets cleaned before each round of testing which is between 20 and 30 rounds. Before I ever do any load development, I will shoot 20 rounds through the rifle just to smooth out the rifling and check for pressure tolerance. After that, if I have a pet load I know will work, I won't clean that rifle until I see the groups open up. My 300 Norma makes it around 100, my 308 Win goes over 1k.

[@couespursuit7350]

My problem is getting at baked on carbon. I have a Brux 6.5C rifle and a certain amount of carbon remains from the breach to about 10 inches down the bore. I can let bore tech C4 sit in the bore for 30 then run the next patch which comes out clean yet still carbon build up remains. I also use CARB-OUT from Sharp Shoot R Precision Products but that seems slow to get at that hard baked in carbon. I only have 1000 rounds down the pipe and have been diligent about running a decent cleaning routine after most shooting sessions. What is your experience with stubborn baked in carbon?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Each rifle has its own personality so to speak and it sounds like you discovered yours. Sometimes we can use the best chemicals out there but they still won't touch the stubborn copper fouling or powder fouling. IF the excessive fouling is causing accuracy or performance issues then we have to resort to using brushes. Baked on carbon is HARD! A nylon brush just won't cut it in most cases so use a new, properly sized bronze brush. Soak it in carbon fouling solvent and push the brush from breech to crown and let it exit the end. I don't like dragging a carbon fouled bronze brush across my nice, sharp crown. Repeat that a dozen or so times and follow up with a couple patches and you'll have it licked in no time. 😄

[@jasonmausteller2488]

What patch loop was that? I noticed it wasn’t brass and I like that

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

An old Bore Tech Proof Positive loop.

[@jasonmausteller2488]

Impressed with how much copper the eliminator removed even before going to copper remover, is that normal?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Yup, the Bore Tech Eliminator itself is a helluva copper fouling solvent. It's a really good "all-in-one" bore cleaner.

[@jared7211]

You should have done a before and after with a bore scope.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

That would have been interesting.

[@charlesmullins3238]

I’m the type that doesn’t go crazy cleanin especially when I’m shootin tiny groups fear of messin em up…lol..I pull snakes 2 times and that’s it…pulled a brush through with Otis coated cable 1 time just cause I’ve been shootin so much these days…any thoughts on IMR 3031..? Workin on 55gr from my 16” doublestar….love the smell of Lucas..thanks Shawn …matt

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Matt - You bring up a great point, those Otis cable kits are actually really awesome. Pulling the brushes through saves your crown and those plastic coated cables play nice with your bore. I love bore snakes for my rimfires and always keep one in my pack when hunting, just in case anything gets in the barrel. Thanks for watching!

[@charlesmullins3238]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc kinda wanted your take on em…

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

@Charles Mullins - I really like the bore snakes for intermittent or emergency cleaning. I've never used them as a primary cleaning method, and not because I see anything wrong with them if used properly, but because I'm so used to my rod / jag / patch setup. I carry a mini Otis cleaning kit in my range bag and have had to use it several times. I really like those things. The only downside is they are a little slower to use than a rod, but they work great and there easy on the bore. Hope that helps.

[@charlesmullins3238]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc you bet. Thanks Shawn I appreciate your efforts

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

No prob, thank you.

[@k2spd]

Are you scrubbing with the patches in the barrel?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Yup, a nice tight patch with solvent.

[@davidsalsedo6765]

Great video Solid I do clean every time I use my rifle But your guns shoot too

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Yup, more that one way to skin a cat. Some people just automatically assume the “need” to clean their rifle every time. That may be the case or it may not. Other people just want to clean their rifle no matter what. No problem with that either. It all works. 👌🏻👌🏻

[@Riccardo_V_Florio]

What type of grease did you use in the video?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Grease - I buy it on Amazon, great stuff. Link: amzn.to/3RPeAKt

[@jcjustice3786]

👍👍👍

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thank you!

[@misterlewgee8874]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I find when no carbon comes out...then I run a synthetic brush through ..more carbon then comes out...then .when no carbon comes out with synthetic..and a gingerly use a bronze brush...more carbon comes out. These barrels have had carbon build up .. obviously....use of borescope only way to tell.... However...I guess if you keep on top of your carbon cleaning...maybe no brushes required.. Getting carbon out after 1400 rounds...might take more than patches. I'd love to be patch only...for copper...this might work...but...prob not for carbon...unless , perhaps you carbon clean all the time. I use boretech eliminator copper and carbon remover... Then...like to protect bore from rust...with, lanolin (doesn't evaporate)...and starting to use boretech friction guard. Have you tried wrapping a strip of flannel around a bore brush? Thanks for posting

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Ya, I learn more and more every year, and I have found that fouling varies widely from rifle to rifle, barrel to barrel, and cartridge to cartridge. On a side note, I busted out the 308 Win barrel on my AIAX the other day and put 100 rounds through it on the steel range. I hadn't shot that rifle in a while so I confirmed zero before I hit the long stuff. It was still a half MOA rifle with the 169 TMK reloads, not surprising since that rifle always shot great. What was cool was I logged the rounds in the book and confirmed a total of 2,612 rounds without cleaning that barrel. According to my log I ran a patch of Ballistol down the tube at 1900 rounds after shooting in a dust storm, but that was it. Total round count is closing in on 9,000 rounds and it still shoots. I'm going to throw a bore scope down the tube and see what is goin on. I suspect nasty fire checking but thats about it. Some cartridges will do that, I would never get away with that on my 6CM, that thing seems to be getting more and more sensitive about being cleaned as the round count goes up. Really interesting stuff, so many variables at play. I like your idea of the flannel patch around the brush. I'll give it a shot! Thank you for your contribution, its great to get knowledge from folks who are out there running their rifles.

[@misterlewgee8874]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I'm forever wary and horrified by rust. First patch bit brown. This rarely happens...but. I started off using lanolin spray on a patch...after cleaning...after shooting....no worries...it doesn't evaporate off...(and a dry patch through before shooting) Then I tried mx3. That's fine for short term...but...evaporates off over time...horror.. I'm currently looking at going back to lanolin or boretech friction guard. I'm not sure bout g96 for bore protection...might use that for bolt and outer surfaces... Finding what works takes time...

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

That it does, sir.... that it does. Rust sucks!!

[@user-lm3zt8sc1b]

I went to clean my rifle barrel I used a wet patch then I let it set then I used the brush after I brush it I use the patch then I repeat I did this like 5 times and the patches just won’t come out clean any suggestions

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Are you seeing copper or carbon on the patch? What chemical are you using?

[@user-lm3zt8sc1b]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I’m using Hoppes 9 and I’ve tried break free clp and it’s carbon

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Try a more aggressive solvent. Hoppes #9 smells nice but its not the best solvent out there. Try Hoppe's benchrest or a Bore Tech product. It may take several cycles of wet patches and scrubbing, but you will get it.

[@patdennis3751]

Cotton patch wrapped around a nylon brush. Iosso is faster than anything else.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Awesome.

[@user-lm3zt8sc1b]

Do you need a bore guide if you have a carbon fiber rod ?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Yessir, the "universal" bore guides you commonly see for sale don't do a whole lot for keeping the cleaning rod centered because the because the bore of the guide is usually very large and not sized to the cleaning rod, but they do serve to keep cleaning fluids out of your trigger and action which is nice.

[@user-lm3zt8sc1b]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I have a brand new Remington 870 field master I have only shot 7 target loads through it and I went to clean it and the patches keep on coming out a brown color and I let the break free clp set for about 25 minutes and I repeated this for 3 times and they are still coming out brown I used the copper brush in between the patches and it doesent help but I looked inside the barrel with a bore light and it looks completely clean ?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

The brown could be either the oil the factory coated the barrel in or a light coat of oxidization. Either way keep after it with the CLP or switch to a stonger solvent.

[@johnharris-pn5vy]

I find my 6.5 PRC and 6.5 cm shoot so much better when I clean them down clean shiny bore . I hear guys say all the time don't clean for couple hundred or till accuracy falls off , see guys at the range say oh I pulled that one or could it be just dirty . I never get flyers any more when I clean like that , look at bench rest shooters , clean every 7-10 shots , they shoot dots . Best thing I have done was get a bore scope , showed me how ineffective my cleaning had been. My first Fowler three shot group will be a hair low and hair to left . My first cold bore shot is dead center. I've never broke in a barrel in my life , I just shoot it . Just my opinion I think a lot of the speed variation in new barrel comes from letting it go till accuracy degrades , that's pretty arbitrary , to me it's not very clean in the throat area and causing pressure variations , that's just my take on it 😁 but I did like your video and sub u

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I like it. There is a lot for us to learn from the benchrest shooters. Like you said, they shoot literal dots. Unfortunately its seems like that stuff is slow to trickle down to the practical competition shooters and hunters, for example.. barrel tuners. Benchrest guys have been using em' for years. You are just now (last couple of years) starting to see them show up on PRS / NRL rifles. Browning has had the BOSS system for a long, long time and it works! But, for some reason it never gained widespread popularity. The ability to tune your rifle to a factory load, or fine tune your hand loads is something everyone should want. Thanks for the comments, great contribution! -Shawn

[@johnharris-pn5vy]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I had one of those browning boss , worked!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I never understood the concept until I got into precision rifle stuff. Then it was like a lightbulb came on. Amazing how well they worked. I just got the materials for what should be a very interesting test in barrel harmonics I will get done in the next couple weeks. 👍

[@patdennis3751]

Honestly, I have tried every liquid and foam chemical bore cleaner out there, nylon and bronze brushes, etc. The ONLY product to date after 50 yrs of cleaning barrels to be effective and deep clean both carbon and copper is Iosso paste on a patch wrapped around a nylon brush. I use an equal parts mix of synthetic ATF, kerosene and acetone with a patch and brush to get the loose stuff out, dry it out then break out the Iosso. 5 minutes later and the borescope tells me I'm ready to go shoot again.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Iosso is incredible stuff. I use that and JB Bore Paste to polish out air rifle and rimfire barrels. Are you running it on a patch or a brush? I've used it both ways with great effect.

[@440capnhook]

look at what benchrest shooters and f class guys do with a nylon brush. they brush the hell out of them doesnt seem to hurt em. One thing to mention if you dont clean your barrels everytime you shoot if you are the type that may put a gun away for a year or two and forget about it that carbon left in is going to pit your barrel.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Benchrest shooters are a different breed, for sure. They are absolutely methodical about everything they do, and generally I would rate these gents as very well versed in the function and performance of their equipment. I enjoy talking to these dudes and learning from them. They are an absolute wealth of knowledge. I've personally seen and owned many, many rifles that have gone through extended firing cycles without a thorough cleaning. Each person has their own definition of proper weapon maintenance. A lot of my Marine buddies still feel like their weapons have to be inspection ready even after firing a couple of rounds. In most cases, I just don't feel the need to thoroughly clean my precision rifle barrels. There are plenty of people out there who also have personal anecdotal evidence to the contrary, which is perfectly ok. I truly believe the rifle and the usage should be allowed to dictate cleaning. For example, my issued, duty .308 bolt action shot phenomenally well, even after not thoroughly cleaning the bore for thousands of rounds. This didn't mean that I didn't maintain my rifle though, seeing as how this was a weapon used to protect my life and the lives of other innocents. I religiously maintained the rifle, made sure the moving parts were clean and lubed, cleaned the chamber after every firing, cleaned optics, function checked, etc, and the list goes on. I would occasionally run a wet patch of Kroil through the bore, but only when I was headed to the range. The rifle was shot multiple times a week for tens of thousands of rounds a year. As most snipers who try to master their craft do, I obsessively logged every round, every cold bore impact, every cold / clean bore impact, every lot of ammo, every environmental variable, etc... After years of doing this, I found I had the most reliable and consistent first round impact by not going to town on the bore every time I shot my rifle, and allowing it to just "be" 😄. This idea and methodology spread throughout my team and helped maintain better accuracy. My accuracy never suffered, my consistency never suffered, and I never had a failure to function due to lack of weapon maintenance or a "dirty" barrel. 20,000+ rounds of .308 Win a year, plus that much more in other assorted calibers has a way of teaching you some stuff. I carried this same theory over to my other hunting and match rifles. What I found is it works in most cases. I say most because there are several exceptions. My 6CM match rifle starts to lose accuracy after a couple of hundred rounds. That particular barrel copper fouls VERY badly. I have resorted to cleaning this rifle every time I take it out to keep the copper at bay and maintain accuracy. My buddies barrel is the exact opposite, not half the fouling I experience. Maybe a poorly machined barrel???? My 300 Norma Mag is similar, after about 60 rounds I start to get a bad carbon ring, I have to stay on this or else its a royal pain to take care of. Great point on barrel pitting with long term storage. Lots of people think stainless steel is impervious to pitting and oxidation. Even though modern cartridge propellants are designed to be non-corrosive, their residue left in a barrel can absorb moisture from the environment and cause some surface pitting in stainless steel, the speed at which this happens is more dependent on the environment rather than how dirty the barrel is. A quick remedy to this is running a couple patches of Kroil or other protectant type of oil in the bore. Alternatively, if you plan on storing the rifle for a long time (say 6 months or more as you would a dedicated hunting rifle), this is one of the times I will give the barrel a good and thorough cleaning and put it away with a light coating of oil inside the chamber and bore. Gun cleaning is a very "sensitive" topic to a lot of people. For me, I do what works and that is constantly changing as I learn more and shoot more. I appreciate your input, you brought up some GREAT points!!!!!!! -Shawn

[@440capnhook]

@triggeredprecisionmachinellc ya I completely agree let each barrel tell you what it wants. I have a 308 that I almost never cleaned and was an awesome shooter. I built a new rifle and put the 308 up for about a year and a half and came back to it cleaned it and borescoped it. And then had an oops moment when I saw all the pitting. That's the reason I mention it.

[@jasoneverett7343]

What borescope do you use?

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I use a Teslong borescope that uses my iPhone as a viewer. Works great! Here's a link: amzn.to/3l04Hgn

[@jasoneverett7343]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc they will definitely tell you the truth for cleaning. I always thought I cleaned good until I got one. Not even close to clean. Firm believer of iosso bore paste for mirror Finnish. Then the lockease for pre fouling.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I love the Iosso Bore paste. I didn't bring that up in the video because most people don't need it and you can potentially get yourself into trouble with that stuff. I use it on my NRL 22 rifle with great results. I'll check out the lockease. Thanks

[@petethomas5976]

Question how do you know it's clean if you don't look in there with a bore scope there is still hard carbon in there that's what needs to come out and that patch will not get the job done and FYI I have been a pipe Welder for years and a bronze brush will not hurt a barrel no way no how clean is clean

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

You don't know if its clean. I guess the point is figuring out how "clean" each rifle needs to be to shoot the best and when the rifle gets fouled to the point that accuracy falls off. If you have stubborn carbon, then you might have to use a brush. I've got some calibers that foul up pretty good and I rarely have to resort to a brush, then again... I don't care what my bore looks like as long as my rifle shoots well.

[@ddn79]

You are not going to hurt the barrel by over cleaning, you will hurt it by not cleaning it correctly. But there is no one universal way to clean a rifle and it gets into a long stupid debate. If it works for you then you should continue to use it. After a while you will have to use a brush to get all the carbon off.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

That was the point of the video, keep the process simple, don't think too much about it, and use caution. You nailed it... use whatever works for you, but for new folks who are looking for advice on cleaning the barrel on their prized new bolt action rifle, there is a heap of garbage out there in terms of unnecessary cleaning advice that they can avoid. Spend more time shooting. I'd have to disagree with using a brush. you may have to use a brush at some point depending on the cartridge and the quality of the barrel, but using good solvents will almost always remove your carbon with just a patch. I put 12,000 rounds through a .308 two years ago and cleaned that barrel a total of 15 recorded times and never used a brush one time. That rifle started out shooting .300" - .400" groups and ended its days at just under a 1" rifle. I do use a nylon brush occasionally on a 22 Creedmoor and 6 Creedmoor that tend to copper foul more than anything else I own, but that is only to speed up the removal process. I truly appreciate the input. Its great to get other opinions on these topics, that is how we all learn. -TPM

[@rushtonline1674]

Just an fyi, as of July or August 2023 Mike is making these. He’s making them by request, so maybe he doesn’t have volume capacity.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Good to know. Thanks!

[@maulssaber]

Becareful using the carbon fiber rods the carbon remover will attack the rod and cause the carbon fiber rod to spinter

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Thanks for the heads up, I will inspect mine tomorrow!

[@maulssaber]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc that came directly from Trevor at bore tech when I spoke to him on the phone when I asked him about the C4 carbon remover.

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Good to know. Thank you!

[@Bushmasterpilot]

I disagree on your 20 shot barrel break-in. Maybe on a precision barrel, but on hundreds of factory rifle barrels I have tuned for customers, they usually take 75-100 rounds till seasoned, and make maximum speed. I have had Tikka stainless barrels go 125 rounds till finally equalizing the muzzle velocity, and going from 2900fps from first rounds to 3020 after break-in, using the exact same loaded ammo. Every gun/barrel is different. I shoot/clean a brand new barrel every 10 rounds till the speed stabilizes, then I clean after every trip to the range. I will fire 10 rounds to foul the barrel before a hunting trip, and clean after the trip. Barrel break-in is a highly debated/contested topic. 😉

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

I'd agree with with speed change for the first 100-200 rounds through any barrel, but my point on these elaborate break in procedures is they do absolutely nothing to extend the life of the barrel or increase the accuracy potential. If you enjoy cleaning more than shooting, I have no problem with that. Everyone has their own methods and there really isn't any "right" one or "wrong" one except the ones that cause damage. Even with brand new barrels, I won't hesitate to shoot a match. I've never seen something as extreme as 120 fps from a barrel speeding up after 100 rounds. Do you normally see that increase with only factory barrels??? I've seen 20-50 fps regularly and shoot the rifle normally during the time it speeds up. I have neither the money or time to dedicate to shooting just to break in a barrel or possibly reach that unknown point that it reaches speed stability. I appreciate the input! I truly enjoy hearing other opinions and experiences and it sounds like you have a lot of experience to share. I'm always open to learning more!

[@Bushmasterpilot]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc as I said, this is factory barrel experience. The Tikka factory barrels are renowned for their accuracy, and quality and take awhile to season the steel. I found the speed up issue over 25 years ago while doing load developement with 168 Grain Berger VLD in a 7mm Rem Mag. I shot a load developement and settled in with a load. Around 100 rounds later in that barrel the load started to change. It took a chronograph to figure it out, the load went from 2900fps to 3010 over that 100-120 rounds. I tweaked the load, and it shot great the life of the barrel approx 2000 rounds. I have since seen this in other manufatures barrels. I believe carbon is the #1 barrel killer, so I like to keep it out of my barrels. I see factory barrels last way longer with regular cleaning with the original Foaming wipeout after every shoot, followed by a good jag/patch scrubbing with original formula Hoppes #9. I use KG products for stubborn barrels my customers have neglected! Great videos by the way, I enjoy your presentation! Keep up the good work

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Wow, that is very interesting. I've shot a few Tikkas and always been impressed by the out-of-the-box accuracy. The T3X is my #1 recommendation for new hunters not wanting to have a custom rifle built. I love that foaming wipeout, haven't been able to find it in years. I have a Proof Research CF barrel coming for a 300 PRC lightweight hunting rig I'm building. When I'm doing to load development, I'll be sure to monitor the velocity and see what kind of changes I get with more rounds down the barrel. That stuff really interests me. Thanks again!

[@derekmcmurry4263]

@@Bushmasterpilot I bought my first Tikka last year, a 308. Got it on clearance at Field and Stream for just under $600, likely because it is a left hand action. I've handloaded since the 80s. I was eager to see if my Tikka would perform as well as all the people say they do. I was disappointed. Factory ammo, a variety - including Norma, Federal, Hornady, would shoot around 2 MOA and I finally got a 130 Barnes TTSX over TAC to shoot almost 1 MOA. I am literally on the brink of ordering a stock and bottom metal to break it down and have it converted to a custom gun. I have 2 barrels on hand, a Brux #3 and a Bartlein #3 to choose from, both 10 twist. However, after reading about your experience, I may just put more bullets through it first to see if that helps finish seasoning it. That said, I clock all of my loads and factory ammo and right out of the box it seemed consistent, especially with my 130 TTSX handloaded ammo. I'd say it already has 60-70 through it

[@Bushmasterpilot]

@@derekmcmurry4263 thats a pretty light bullet for .308 I would try something in the 178grain range. I load 178gr eldx with Varget for a guys tikka hunting rifle, and it shoots 1/2moa all day long out to 300yards. 308's can be picky on what bullets/powder combo they like. Try Varget😉

[@58harwood]

Using a borescope is the only way to determine if your barrel is really clean or not! Reading patches to determine whether the barrel is clean or not is like reading tea leaves! Completely useless!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

True, but not everyone owns a borescope, in fact most people don't. The fact remains that it is not always necessary or beneficial to have your barrel spotlessly clean and stripped of copper. There are cases where certain barrels or cartridges require a cleaner barrel than others, but that isn't the norm. Carbon rings are one exception. They can be stubborn and effect more than accuracy, they can greatly increase the pressure of your normal load. I currently only have one rifle that develops a bad carbon ring and I do have to stay on top of that to make sure it doesn't get too heavy. I have rifles that NEED to be cleaned much sooner than others (300 Norma, 6MM Creedmoor, 22-250). I've mentioned a .308 Win barrel I have for my AIAX, that barrel has several thousand rounds through it and has only been cleaned a handful of times, never to the point of stripping every last bit of copper. I took it out the other day and even after approaching 9,000 rounds and not being cleaned for nearly 3,000 rounds, that rifle still holds 1/2 MOA with reloads and factory Federal Gold Medal Match . I don't plan on cleaning that barrel for the rest of its life, not due to laziness, I keep all my gear in top condition, but because it isn't necessary with that rifle. My 6mm Creedmoor on the other hand seems to need cleaning around the 200-300 round mark. When I say it "seems to need cleaning", I mean the accuracy opens up from sub 1/3 MOA to just over 1/2 MOA, still plenty usable for any PRS match out there. So in short, I would agree... reading patches for cleanliness is akin to reading tea leaves. It's up to the shooter to pay attention to their rifle and know when it's necessary to clean, and figure out just how much to clean. Too many people over do it for no reason at all, other than psychologically they want their barrel spotless. I'm fine with those folks as well, do what you gotta do, but to say that you need to strip the barrel completely clean of everything, every time you clean, isn't accurate. Thanks for the post, I like to have input from folks with differing opinions, its keeps the thought process going. 😁

[@58harwood]

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc Agreed! Getting a borescope several years ago opened my eyes to what I had thought was a “clean” barrel. I shoot a lot of 243/6 CM too and I’m not as worried about copper as much as I am about getting rid of the carbon ring. Borescopes have gotten so cheap, it’s hard to believe more don’t take advantage of them. It’s some of the best money I ever spent in 40 years of reloading!

[@triggeredprecisionmachinellc]

Sometimes I wish I didn't have one! HAHAHA! It is definitely eye opening to see what is going on in there. The Teslong bore scopes are an absolute bargain and definitely should be in the toolbox of any serious shooter.