How to Clean Your Barrel - Fast and Easy

In this video I share the fastest and easiest way to get and keep my barrels. I also show how to remove a carbon ring simple and fast.
Improve Your Reloads! - • Better Accuracy From Y...
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Other equipment
Bore Tech Bolt Action Cleaning Tool Kit
PMA Bore guide
Iosso Eliminator Bore Brush Nylon
Other Cleaning solvents used:
ThorroClean Bore Cleaning System
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Videos on this channel are for informative, and entertainment purposes only. Using any of the information is at the risk of the individual using the information. We (including KZbin) will not be held liable for any injury to yourself or damage to your firearms resulting from attempting anything shown in any our videos. By viewing or flagging this video you are acknowledging the above.

[@user-un5my5bw4j]

1000yd Benchrest competitor and gunsmith here and i will say you must clean your barrel. Accuracy degrades the more shots down the pipe. Use a good bore guide, a good coated rod, good synthetic brushes like iosso or boretech and never use brass or bronze. Use solvents that do not use amonia. Good ones are Wipe out or patch out with accelerator, bore tech, or thurro flush

[@glennllewellyn7369]

Ta. You are legend. Australia

[@mmgee]

After 24 years of BR I only used bronze brushes, butch’s Bore Shine or shooters choice, Lucas Bore guide, clean EVERY 8 to 15 shots

[@tekanger975]

I have been cleaning rifle barrels for over 60 years and have always hated it. Hated it to the extent that I often procrastinated and was never really satisfied that I could discern when a barrel was truly clean. Two years ago I purchased a Teslong borescope and was completely frustrated. Nothing I had done for years had truly cleaned those barrels. The borescope will tell the story, but you may not like it. The availability of an affordable borescope has been the breakthrough for me. Thanks for your videos!

[@CaseyD406]

Personally I just clean every time I get done shooting. Easier to remember wether or not I cleaned last.

[@gixxerjunky]

This ENTIRE time I have been watching this channel I was under the impression you were much younger man in your early 20’s. Lol I don’t really know why but your voice. Seeing the beard with a little wisdom hairs mixed in threw me for a loop!

[@BoltActionReloading]

I still feel like that most days, but there are certainly more traitors these days!

[@DanielBoone337]

I use the Bore Tech carbon and copper remover, Tipton cleaning rods, and the Teslong borescope that works with my tablet but my process is basically the exact same. I didn't believe in cleaning my barrel and I didn't think a borescope was necessary but man was I wrong. When I 1st started cleaning when I got a clean patch I thought I was good then I got my Teslong and found out I wasn't really doing anything but wasting my time. So a borescope to me is a mandatory piece of gear. Great video as always keepem coming brother!!!

[@garysnyder6020]

Ordered the thorough from Midway and it came yesterday. After going thru the cleaning process two times I can still see lots of copper in the barrel. Also, the flush does want to soak into the patch. Had to pour it into a lid from a gallon jug and immerse the patch to get it soaked. The JB with Kroil works much better for me after a #9 soaked patch. Live and learn.

[@njgrplr2007]

My bore scope showed me that 4 patches with J-B bore paste and some Kroil works like magic. Instructional video on the Brownells site helped me get started. This process was actually recommended to me by Bartlein. This is my cleaning regimen every 200 rounds. After most range sessions, I just use Bore Tech carbon and copper removing products.

[@garysnyder6020]

First two patches are #9 then a dry patch, then your process. Works great.

[@andygray1408]

" We do not recommend using most paste type cleaners. These can be aggressive and like lapping etc… and if you don’t remove all of the paste before shooting you might as well have sand in the bore when the first round goes down it. It will damage the barrel. Also using paste type cleaners can keep polishing to the point and if over used will actually remove/change/effect the bore dimensions. The lands will take the most beating/wear to them. There are concerns that you can make the barrel too smooth and this also leads to copper fouling issues. Once something like this happens to the barrel it is usually damaged beyond the point it can be saved. Also using a past type cleaner with a brush is guaranteed damage to the bore. Paste cleaners like Iosso, Witch’s Brew, KG2 etc….and we’ve seen the damaged caused with these." I've avoided paste type because the above quote on bartleins website but, if they say JB is good to go then I'm gonna give it a try!

[@nigelbase1196]

​@@andygray1408JB is a type of paste!🙄

[@victordelarosa3586]

Just tried this method and DAMN!! This was easy!!! Also, removing the carbon ring… just like you said, 15 minute soak and done!!! Thank you for putting this info together!

[@58harwood]

I take Bryan Litz advice, every 100 rounds or so, JB bore paste on a tight patch, 30 strokes. Up and back is 1! Flush with brake cleaner. Couple of dry clean patches, then rinse and repeat! And I don’t hesitate to use a bronze brush for any stubborn places or the carbon ring!

[@china_man_actual]

You're going to hurt some feelings here BAR. So many of the "bronze brushes destroy barrels" crowds are going to raid the comments section haha! good informative video. I clean when ever I'm done shooting a match or a long training session. Contemplating using a drill gun and spinning it down the barrel to kill the carbon faster.

[@randallgibson8619]

Boretech proof positive jags are a must too, gets rid of the false positive readings on your patches.

[@chrisfranks2215]

I stared using this product when it first came out and LOVE it!! It’s all I use now for a thorough cleaning.

[@corymcleod2728]

Thank you. I’ve tried so many bore cleaning products over the past 45 years. I’ve got a lot of half filled bore cleaning products that works but not like what you describe. Free All works great for carbon but not indoors. I’ve been watching your videos for years now and have learned quite a lot from you. Who says that you can’t teach an old fart some new tricks. 👍

[@jimlerum]

Glad you’re back!

[@lenzadlberger]

Boretec Carbon Remover / Robla Solo and Balistol the Smell of the Champions 😀 Balistol for the Quick and Dirty Job espacially on the Outside of Hunting Rifles even on the Wood after a Rainy day Hunting (and the smell is not as bad as some say for me it is Memories when i was a little boy and helped my Dad cleaning his Guns) Boretec and Robla Solo for the Complete Clean after a Hunting Season (Hunting Season in Germany is from 1.May to 15.January / on Wildboar the whole Year ... but normally i dont hunt from 1.March till 30.April 😉)

[@redrock425]

I use a Tipton carbon fibre rod, Tipton Jag. Bore Tech bore cleaner and then a few patches of Bore Tech copper cleaner. I only use nylon brushes and patches. Seems to work ok. Note I'm not a BR shooter and don't shoot high volume, probably cleaned every couple of trips, up to 70 rounds total. Always good to hear about alternatives. BT is good but expensive here in the UK.

[@sarkoa794]

Well done! Bore Tech bolt action set is a massive time saver. Can't live without my Teslong bore scope and PMA rod guide. I will second all of those. Great choices. I like Lucas Gun Metal Polish for the bore. Less abrasive than IOSSO but will take more patches and time to clean out.

[@franzk.ronellenfitsch795]

I was experimenting with my 6,5 CM barrel over the year and the last two sessions (finally around 800 rounds fired) showed significant loss of accuracy, so the full scope of cleaning was necessary (done yesterday). Now I am keen on the next range day. My conclusion for the future is, cleaning is due after +/- 300 rounds as it significantly will reduce the required time and effort for cleaning, even if my barrel will keep accuracy up to 600+ rounds. A borescope is obligatory nowadays, they are cheap and it is the only way to confirm the state of your barrel at time. The Boretech carbon remover is awesome, I just came across this product a couple of weeks ago and it works very well, for the barrel and for the brake etc.

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

Carbon seems to be more destructive than copper.

[@glennllewellyn7369]

I’m firmly in the, “I don’t want to clean camp” Welcome around my fire, grab yourself a coffee with a nip of whiskey.

[@thomashoffman5745]

Been cleaning guns for many years and I've tried all the products. I still have a shelf full of them to prove it. I can say with complete confidence that no, I repeat no cleaning agent or regemin will thoroughly clean a bore fowled with copper and hard carbon with 5 or even 10 patches and a couple of passes with a brush. Even the best stuff I've found (Boretech) will take you many multiple executions of a series of steps outlined by the product. The bore will eventually come clean but may never be perfect. Some products are completely ineffective when it comes to hard carbon. As soon as I hear someone say your bore will be shiny and clean after only 5 patches and a few strokes with a brush I know it's BS.

[@DanielReyes-hz1qk]

My regular routine of Boretech Eliminator and Iosso bore brushes takes care of everything but the hard carbon on the first several inches of barrel. What's your preferred method of dealing with that? Only way I've ever gotten it out completely is with abrasives, which I'd prefer not to use if I don't have to

[@davidrjonesjr]

I just ordered all the chemicals you mentioned. Never too late to learn a better way!

[@pickin4you]

For rimfire, I take the word of a multi time national champion, and clean when they groups open up or when you out it away for the winter. This man would shoot over a case of Tenex down the bore and never need to clean and beat everyone else who cleaned often. So what you want, but for rimfire, I leave the bore dirty and it shoots better every year. Now center fire, I keep those clean. I have my own break in with a custom barrel to where once it is broken in, it never collects copper abs am be cleaned with a couple of wet patches of Hoppes #9, then a couple of dry patches. Spotless bore and no copper. This has worked for three custom varmint rigs for me, and 3 of my cousins rifles as well. And those varmint rigs were benchrest accurate. All, 3 different calibers and they all shot sub 1/8” groups.

[@GarrettHamilton]

You're killing it man! Keep up the good work! I've been doing somewhat of the same process and it works great, the biggest thing, just like washing your car or other items, is don't let it get TOO bad before you start the cleaning task.

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

I love these talking hand gun vids.

[@scottkessler186]

I bought a bore scope to check my cleaning. After years of shooting I assumed my bore was fine after cleaning. But I decided to check after some strange results from some well known reloads. The bore scope proved me very wrong. Now I clean until shiny.

[@BoltActionReloading]

I was very surprised myself to find what my cleaning had been leaving behind all these years. Not anymore.

[@Jeff_Seely]

Good video! To all of those folks that don't think cleaning to improve accuracy is necessary, they should go to a short range benchrest meet. You will see ALL shooters meticulously scrubbing the hell out of their guns. I have never seen one single serious benchrest shooter win and not be a barrel cleaner. It is critical. And if accuracy isn't what some guys are after, it is still wise to clean to reduce wear on pivot points and friction areas.

[@StuninRub]

It comes from PRS.

[@Jeff_Seely]

@@StuninRub . Thanks for that. I was merely stating where I know to find precision shooters and that they pretty much all clean religiously. But for me, it comes from the desire for clean and accurate rifles. It is hard to make a serious argument that excessively dirty barrels shoot more accurately or else you'd have competitive rifle shooters all lined up, shooting them. But like our channel host, I once believed that accuracy was not gained through proper cleaning until I made the decision to find out myself through my own honest experimentation. My cleaned barrels shot better SD and ES numbers and I took very thorough notes on this subject.

[@BoltActionReloading]

I try not judge. I have been wrong before too and this is what it looks like. I love the quote that I heard before "You are just waiting to hear your words come out of my mouth." We all want the answer to be simple with no effort, but unfortunately the ice cream diet doesn't work for me. Happy New Year Jeff!

[@rascaille3792]

Are you saying my ice cream and pizza diet is fake? Madness! 😆

[@jpmarcantel]

Thanks great video and keeping it simple is appreciated :)

[@CorwinBos]

Good info! A camera reveals all is what I tell people! I use CLR mostly for carbon removal, Boretech products for general cleaning and copper removal and Iosso for stubborn stuff. I switch between bronze and nylon brushes. Having a few caliber sized mops on hand doesnt hurt either. I have tried a handful of different rods, but I keep going back to the Western Powder Montana Xtreme rods. Possum Hollow bore guides as its a small business that picks up the phone when you call, and they will custom make anything you want for about $15-20 a piece if they dont have it on the shelf. I use Lemishine for cleaning my muzzle brakes.

[@johnbuiatti366]

How do you clean brakes w Lemishine. Love the stuff for pin tumbling my brass, but had no idea about using it own other things. Mix w hot water and soak or wipe or?

[@CorwinBos]

@@johnbuiatti366 Take them off, drop them into hot water with LemiShine, maybe a tablespoon or two in a couple cups of water. Soak them for 30 minutes or so, give them a light scrub with a toothbrush, and they are pretty clean. Still dirty? Drop them back in. Youll see the bubbles coming off the brake telling you its working. Alot of times I just let them sit over night. I blow them off and then oil them so they dont rust. I have to give credit where its due. Precision Rifle Network KZbin channel turned me onto this.

[@dallasfurman8901]

I second the possum hollow bore guides. Great service.

[@glenknox3662]

I use this stuff and it works. I commonly use some JN bore paste and wd40 after too but most of the credit goes to the Through Clean/Flush. The Flush is the viscosity of water and it tends to pour really fast so I’ve gone through that faster than the Through Clean. I wish there was at least 2x more Through Flush. When I scope the bore after it looks great. This guy is giving good advice.

[@glenknox3662]

JB bore paste

[@o2wow]

You're a brave man discussing bore cleaning, thank you very much. I've seen ThorroClean for sale, thanks for testing the product.

[@BoltActionReloading]

Glad to help. I am sure there are a thousand ways to do it right but so far I really like this system and I can do it year round indoors without upsetting others. BAR

[@A-a-ron480]

Another great video

[@Designhunter9125]

Great video!

[@threekblack217]

I always put an O ring of the appropriate size under the cleaning patch on the rod that will press the patch against the lands.

[@swamper2fly]

I use a medium rubbing compound on nylon brush for carbon removal and over size brush for the carbon ring. Borescope it for sure. On highly neglected bores a drill for the carbon ring speeds up the process

[@Forumrida38621]

I have been using thorro clean for a year it's amazing and if you have real stubborn carbon ring just use some iosso in between.. I also like to saturate a patch with thorro clean and scrub back and forth alot then use the saturated brush

[@georgemorgan8787]

Use boretech and Iosso nylon brushes and similar process. For the .308 chamber I bought a Dewey .308 chamber brush which turned out to be a .50 bronze brush which I wore out pretty fast. Changed to a .45 nylon brush and have been using it for months with no sign of wearn yet. A bore guide tailor made for your action and chamber by Shooting Shed in the UK is a really nice touch instead of the universal bore guides.

[@SimpleLife1971]

It's been over three weeks since your last post. I hope all is well and old man winter keeps you from the range. I always look forward to your channel!

[@BoltActionReloading]

Thanks for reaching out. I am doing fine. I have been working a lot of things in the background and I hope to have some more stuff out shortly. I have been waiting for that nice day to get to the range and I just can't seem to find it.

[@SimpleLife1971]

@@BoltActionReloading I know the feeling! I've got quite a few test rounds loaded up for several rifles. My Labradar is set to go along with a power supply. I also went with the trigger vs sound activation. My new Forester Co-Ax is quite impressive and I'm very pleased with its operation. I've thought about adding a set of the "C" style linkage arms but the tension would no longer be linear and don't know if this will affect the end result. A "C" shape linkage arm will begin to flex open under sizing where the stock inline linkage will not. I just completed a press storage rack. This keep the presses organized and safe while not in use...Just trying to stay busy

[@cacinaz8802]

Have been cleaning guns for many years. I clean after each range session, and was brought up that way. Have not found anything that works better than JB and Kroil. That said, I only use JB once in a great while with the flannel tips. Then I use alcohol patches to get all the paste and oil out. Mostly use the Bore Tech products for after range sessions, but also like the MPro7 bore cleaner. Be careful with this stuff and don't get it on plastic grips or oiled stocks. Also use wipe-out but it takes a long time. I have used Frog Lube in the bore as a last step on a heated barrel because it has tested as the slickest stuff available. I discovered it makes cleaning a bore easier because the carbon doesn't seem to stick. Mostly, I think the trick is to clean after each session and don't let the crud stay in the bore.

[@bfdadventure]

"Lock-Ease" aka common term, "colloidal graphite" in that liquid bottle form does not dry in the barrel. The aerosol version does dry after 30 mins, but I have been using the dry neck lube graphite pressed heavily into a dry patch with great success. I clean the barrel, run a degreaser through the barrel, wait for the degreaser to completely dry, or dry patch it till it squeals, then work the graphite loaded patch with short strokes, ending with some long strokes. Lastly, I clean the chamber of the graphite, leaving it all in the bore. The graphite worked in as mentioned pretty much stains the bore metal, it's not clumped. I once forgot to graphite the Benchmark bore after approximately 6 months of shooting and using graphite. I got so used to tight groups out the gate, that I panicked when I got flyers with the first 3 rounds, then put 8 rounds into the usual ragged hole. I checked my muzzle brake, actions screws, scope ring screws and sat on my shooting mat until the thought dawned on me that I forgot to use the graphite! I had a "bald moment". LOL

[@bocooke9193]

Jk

[@rdsii64]

I have always used bortech products. I tried thorough clean kit and I have to admit I like it.

[@honeybadger4883]

This was the best video on GRT and QL I have EVER seen......oh, wait 👀

[@paulstiller6239]

This is more of a series of infomercials than a how to

[@comanche6073]

Greetings from a long time (60+yrs)shooter, one suggestion I have is when mentioning a product you've had success with and hopefully why you should also tell us all what other products (by name) you've tried & what you liked or disliked about the results... Comanche out!!

[@gordonwells1626]

Thanks for making this clear…

[@BoltActionReloading]

Glad it was helpful!

[@terrellstandefer6646]

Thought it was a joke, but them I tried it, CLR, works wonders on carbon. Followed with sweets or some kind of copper remover and don't laugh brake/carb cleaner to flush. I'm going to try this stuff though just to see how much faster it is. Thanks for the info.

[@thomashoffman5745]

It also etches your barrel. There are videos of what CLR does to steal after only a few seconds.

[@landothecommando2632]

Would you be up for doing a video going through the cleaning process you do? Find it really hard to process the steps without seeing.

[@wulfie6899]

Gentlemen…..this video is the most important video on You tube. IF YOU DONT HAVE A BORE SCOPE YOUR BARREL IS DIRTY. You will come out with clean patches but ,your barrel is still dirty. Dont believe me ,try Thorroclean after you run your system.

[@tlloyd9325]

There was a product called Gold Medallion Bore Cleaner made in Pennsylvania. It got bought by Remington. It’s called Remington Bore Cleaner now. It comes in a plastic bottle that has a shaker ball on the inside. It’s about the same size as a Ronson lighter fluid can. It has something in it with oil as a base. Use it with a nylon brush and get busy. You will be amazed. I use this after a LOT of rounds and using Hoppes in between. I’ve only been doing this for 40+ years so take it for what it’s worth. Oh yeah, I shoot moly coated bullets too. No copper fouling with that.

[@RogerMiller-td5yc]

Love moly rounds, so soft of a recoil

[@randalljeffs7272]

Great vid

[@Rico11b]

You can eliminate carbon ring by trimming your case longer. Insert a fired case into your chamber and with the borescope come in from the muzzle and have a look at what's going on. You can see where the brass stops, and you can adjust the length of the brass to reduce exposure to the area where the carbon ring forms. Just keep trimming your cases longer and longer until it stops the carbon ring from building up. Easy peasy. :)

[@willxu08]

I tried almost every single gun cleaning product I can find on the market include this ThorroClean, so far the best combination is JB paste with kroil and Hop9. Sorry to say that ThorroClean works off almost nothing from my barrel while I can still get a black dirty patch after bronze brush. I'll give ThorroClean another try after my next range trip. I shoot 6.5cr mainly and less than 100rd for each rifle in a trip. Cleaning them is a pain in the ass, takes me average 1.5 hours per gun.

[@therangersbulldogs6350]

I think it's better to use alu or nylon jags, in particular with a cooper remover. Carbone ring in the chamber can come sometime with cases trimed slight too short.

[@kriszml]

Thank you. I dont use jags. Instead of a jag I use bore tech nylon brush with a patch wrapped aroung the brush. To clean the bore I use hoppes with bore tech brass brush and bore tech eleminator to remove copper. For lubrication I use weapon shield oil in the barrel and grease on the bolt. I never pull a brush back in the barrel. Always take the brush off and pull the rod out. I also using bore cam to see what I have done and this way I dont have to guess.

[@338mag]

@kriszml I do the same thing with the patches wrapped around the brushes. I just select one just under the bore size and trim the patch so it makes everything good and snug. Wrap the patch the proper way so the brush doesn't unscrew. I use Shooters choice for a solvent, then chase it out, and finally a light oil for storage. I also use a thin combo of white lithium grease with a couple drops of 3 in one oil on my bolts.

[@kriszml]

@@338mag Great. I leave in Europe so our selection a bit short here. For example the weapon shield oil cost me about 80 euros/dollars ans I can only ordered from brownells europe. A lot of shipping fee. Same goes for the hoppes. Just difficult. The patch we use is comes in a roll and we cut the material for lenght we need for a caliber. I also mixed the weapon shield grease with the ws oil because I find it to thick for the weather I am in. But so many ways to clean the rifle. on thing for sure the bore cam does not lie :) Happy New year

[@flux_core_fx]

Thank you for sharing this, I hate the smell of Hoppes in the house

[@chrisgunsandguitars1403]

Eric Cortina says “I can consistently keep my barrel clean. I cannot keep it consistently dirty”. A shooter can literally know what their rifle will do on a clean cold bore, and after it’s been fouled with several shots. However, only if you have a barrel cleanliness consistency. Otherwise you now have a variable not controlled. I haven’t tried the fluids in this video, but I’ve tried many many others. Lots of good products out there, but good ol’ Hoppes #9 isn’t really one of them as it’s a mediocre solvent at best. I mostly use WipeOut sometimes with Accelerator, and KG products along with Shooters Choice solvent at times. Years ago a gunsmith told me to stop wasting money on small bottles of synthetic gun oil and just buy a bottle of Mobil One 15w-50. It’s worked just fine on firearm actions. I wipe the external of guns with Birchwood-Casey Barricade wipes or the Remington type equivalent. Good shooting and keep an eye on your carbon ring, or one day you could experience some high pressures.

[@randyemenhiser2573]

Boretech stuff is hard to find these days. Their website had a 16oz bottle for 20 bucks plus 14 for shipping. I did not order it.

[@Michael-rg7mx]

My 45 auto for shooting ipsc needed the bore swabbed after about 50. The 38 super for steel and any sight would shoot all dy. But needed a really good copper scrub that night. My point is... Every gun will drop accuracy at some point. You just need to know when.

[@TerminalM193]

ALL of mil-comm's products are AMAZING! There's no better, full system out there. I've went through so many damn products until I found mil-comm and I can say without a doubt it's the best gun lubricant on the market. Drastically slows down aging, stays put over many of rounds, protects from serious corrosion and makes future cleanings a peice of cake. Best of all its nontoxic, won't harm your skin or polymer, wood, synthetic stocks. If you use their solvent in conjunction with their lube & grease then it's like cleaning a nb bcg, just wipe off the filth and reapply. I use their grease primarily on everything, even the outside of my pistol barrels.

[@jmichel70]

Thank you,

[@R1j0hn]

My process has been simple for the last 30 years... I have yet to acquire a borescope though, but when I do I'll come back and report if my method is good enough. Pull the bolt, fog the chamber & action with WD-40 to prevent solvent damage, brass-brush soaked with HOPPES #9 back-n-forth 3-4 times in barrel, push a patch thru to wipe. It usually takes 4-5 cycles (alternating #9 and copper solvent) of brass-brush then patch before the patch comes back clean. Then a .410 or 45cal nylon brush & WD-40 to clean the action & chamber, and blow it out with compressed air & wipe off excess. Finally, a patch lightly soaked in gun oil gets pushed thru the barrel a couple times. Done...

[@junaidaftabkhan]

Best Practice

[@beverlyhurd8556]

I used to be one of those people that cleaned my barrels squeaky clean after every shooting. As a varmint hunter, I want those 500 yard prairie dogs to be a fact, not a fancy. Well......that sub minute of angle that is so nice at the range is not so important out in the field. Especially like Wyoming where it is like _always_ windy and you are not shooting off of a concrete shooting bench but rather a portable one or even the hood of your truck. The 2-300 yard prairie dogs are just as easy to hit with a fouled barrel as they are a clean one and my hits are no better or no worse out to those 500 yard ranges either. So a three or four day hunt, using a variety of rifles means that I don't even take a cleaning kit with my any longer. I will clean them and clean them well (yes, I have a bore scope) when I get home but not until then. I would rather been popping prairie pooches than scrubbing barrels any day.

[@anthonybarraballtheflash7055]

I do exactly as you are doing... but use some CLR.... ur used or tried it?? Works well on carbon rings...

[@falba1492]

I shoot a lot of copper bullets, and use Bore Tech CU copper remover. Does this product you use work well on copper? Looking for an easier method. Thanks

[@timmartin6410]

I've been using the Bore Tech Eliminator for a while now and all I can say is there's more junk on the patches including copper residue than my old cleaner. How clean? Guess a borescope is in my future.

[@DLoh2o1]

I'm just about though my first bottles of ThorroClean and have never had my barrels this clean. CLR for carbon rings with an alcohol patch follow up. At first was concerned about ThorroClean (Losso) being too abrasive...thoughts?

[@stevefisher2121]

Completely off topic but would you do a video on the forrestor ultra micrometer seating die??? More specifically how to set it up in a Rcbs press?

[@jaybigboy34]

Do you leave the bore guide in when you clean the carbon ring? I would think the bore guide would be in the way. Correct?

[@InkwellFoto]

I have metal shaving in my brand new Wilson Combat barrel where the gas port is. How do i go about cleaning/removing this? Is it the same process?

[@jameshastings6538]

What cleaning rod and jag would you recommend for a 350 legend rifle?

[@-the1b4u-]

I got that same bore guide from lyman and noticed the inside edges. Immediately grabbed debur tool, problem solved

[@CascadingDream]

How dare you attack my religious beliefs.

[@sapago4166]

XD

[@nathanielgray4235]

Haha

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

Yeah, don’t change your engine oil either…lol. 😂

[@hotrod9873]

Lol

[@perfekt526]

It's weird cause it wasn't a problem until someone discovered carbon, and invented the borescope

[@thisoldjeepcj5]

Is that chamber ring at the neck or shoulder? Learning from your videos. Thanks.

[@erich9111]

The carbon ring is build-up in the neck area, specifically the clearance between your trimmed cases and the end of the neck area in the chamber.

[@davidandre886]

I use all the same products. Agree

[@Botzz28]

Can you just use CLP to clean the barrel?

[@justinteel7172]

Awesome video I have been cleaning my rifles the same way since the marines and I have to say I will try this out, because why wouldn’t you want your barrels at peak conditions when firing

[@cjohnson9211]

Are bore snakes good to use?

[@Dan-di9jd]

A bore camera doesn't really tell you anything at all. Just because you see copper or carbon, it doesn't mean it has to be removed completely each time. Just buy a throat gauge and a field gauge, and monitor those to gauge how much barrel life you have. Matter of fact, more studies have shown, in the military at least, the best and most effective way to tell bore life is with a throat gauge. I forget the study but it was conducted back in the 70s, and 80s when they were trying to figure out ways to measure barrel life. It's still used today because there's no way to know how bad a barrel is by a camera because a barrel wears out the most at the throat and it could look really nasty but still shoot fine.

[@user-Alaskan7676]

Can I use 338 for 30/06 ?

[@leonardogarcia2506]

Hello, most of what I’ve learned or know of reloading has come from your channel. I loaded 50 rounds of 6 creed in new Peterson srp brass. I got out to fire form the brass and I got delayed ignition. Click then half a second later boom. From what I’ve read I’m thinking I didn’t seat my primers deep enough?? My question is how deep should the primers be seated? I used 40 grains of superformance powder and I used cci br4 and fed 205m primers. So I don’t think it was the primers ignition level. The bullets are 108 eld m if it matters. My calipers say the primers are flush. I used a forester hand primer and a frankford perfect hand primer on the other 25 cases. Any suggestions would help and I realize my question has nothing to do with this video. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Ps love this channel and have found it beyond beneficial!

[@BoltActionReloading]

Hello, usually you are trying to get below flush but its pretty easy to measure if you have a set of calipers. You should measure these yourself but here is my example. I just measured some of my Peterson SRP brass in 6.5 and the primer pocket depth I had was .124", my br-4s and 205Ms both measured a thickness of .122" so I would as a minimum want these .003" below flush. DO NOT reseat primers on assembled ammo. Disassemble the rounds and remove the powder if you want to seat your primers deeper. I don' t know if there is a chance that the primers could have been exposed to moisture (did you wash the brass and not completely dry it by chance?) If all this seems correct I will point you to a video series by JRB (I could attempt to explain but his video series is just awesome to explain this issue) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6i9iWSepa-NkLc personally I commonly use cci-450s where ignition might be an issue. Hopefully this points you in the correct direction. If you have more questions ask!

[@leonardogarcia2506]

@@BoltActionReloading i appreciate all your help and the videos you put out. I watched the video’s from Johnnys reloading and I feel confident it was a combination of the superformance powder, the low case fill and #1 the primers I chose. Seems like he experienced the same issue with the same components. Also the cold weather. The brass didn’t have moisture as it was virgin brass from Peterson. I also got the same dimensions you recorded. I’ve pulled the bullets with the rcbs collet bullet puller and added 3 grains of powder more for a higher case fill and seated the bullets .030 deeper and had slight hang fires on 3 of the remaining 40 from the box of 50. Again, I super appreciate your help and will become a patreon after this! God bless!

[@user-Alaskan7676]

Which pma bore guide would work in tikka t3x300 win mag and bergara mountain 2.0 too? thx

[@BoltActionReloading]

I would email them. They do a very good job is responding. Make sure to check your junk mail in case it ends up there

[@jcnikoley]

I’m not a huge proponent of bore cleaning. Often it’s not necessary. Metal fouling returns very quickly, but soon stabilizes. When I clean, I use powder solvents only. I don’t spend much time on the bore. I focus on the moving parts.

[@StuninRub]

That's why you have 3 moa groups.

[@jcnikoley]

@@StuninRub If you say so bud.

[@erich9111]

It depends a lot on the condition of the bore when it is stripped clean. You might consistently get 1 MOA without cleaning from a good factory barrel, but the rough finish will make it impossible to strip all the copper out, and cleaning it perfectly won't make any difference in performance. A hand lapped barrel might shoot 1/4 MOA when clean and open up to 1 MOA after a few hundred rounds. If you want competitive groups, you will buy the better barrel and do the additional work, but not everyone is in that situation.

[@leewilkinson6372]

​@erich9111 I appreciate the common sense answer here. Most people can't shoot 1 moa groups regularly, and certainly won't benefit from a mirror finished barrel (this includes me). I think this discussion is more for the competitive shooting crowd.

[@Michael-rg7mx]

When I was trying to shoot the smallest 10 shot groups I found accuracy dropping at about 40 shots. If I did a light cleaning after each string I didn't have flyers. Just the bore mind you. And just powder fouling.

[@settlesmachiningtools8671]

Wait… you can loose weight from eat ice cream 😮 6 pack abs here I come!

[@jdheatmag]

Based on feedback from a group I recently joined on FB, I just started cleaning my rifle barrels with G96 and boresnakes. First time I've cleaned rifles in 30 years. Folks around here don't clean their rifle barrels so I didn't know any better. Now, I question whether or not I should perform more thorough cleaning like this video shows. I rarely shoot more than 25 or 30 rounds per year out of any of my centerfire rifles. Only use is for confirming zero prior to deer season, then deer season. Btw, I have 2 Sako rifles (.25-06 and 7mm RM) and a Marlin (.25-06). Accuracy on the Sakos is .5 MOA at 100 yds. The Marlin shoots 1 MOA at 100. I've been told I should only clean when accuracy degrades or after extreme weather (Common here in the southeast US during deer season). So should I clean more thoroughly or is boresnaking with G96 only ok?

[@t3ninja739]

PLEASE, Don’t use a bore snake as your primary means of cleaning, it’s fine once in a while, but you can do some serious damage to the crown of your barrel.

[@canjo4588]

@@t3ninja739no the bronze in the bristles are softer than the steel of the barrel it will not harm your barrel what so ever. You can take a patch and normal rod and run a wet patch of bore cleaner down the barrel and leave it for 15 minutes then you can come back through and follow up with bore snake . Or you can apply small amount of bore cleaner to the front of your bore snake and bore cleaner to the end of your bore snake and run it through let it sit for 15 minutes then continue running your bore snake through couple times nothing wrong with using bore snakes if they like them

[@t3ninja739]

@@canjo4588 I understand that, I’m referring to the crown where you’re pulling the string with any carbon etc on it. If you’re pulling it out at any sort of an angle OVER TIME, it can/will eventually wear a groove in the muzzle. Think if it as a rope burn in a way.

[@canjo4588]

@@t3ninja739 you have to remember what happens when you fire. a lead bullet with a copper jacket travels down the barrel and out any wear from a rope or bore snake will not be present at all . I do understand the importance of the crown no doubt

[@llkj7944]

This one will twist some shorts in a knot.....I had a milsurp WW1 rifle I was trying to get some accuracy out of, used a few different over counter bore cleaners with little success, taking to a gunsmith at a gun show one time, he said go buy yourself some ammonia from the hardware store, plug the muzzle end of the barrel with foam ear plug then fill the bore with a mixture 50/50 of peroxide and white vinegar, let it sit for 30 mins then pour it out and brush....then comes the good stuff.....stand the rifle up and fill the barrel with straight Ammonia (do it outside, don't stick your face over it and take a big wiff for obvious adult reasons, it's ammonia for God sake) let it stand for an hour or two, pull the plug and pour out the dark blue liquid that used to be heavy copper fouling, then go back to bush and patches with peroxide and white vinegar, finnish up with sopping wet gun oil patch sit over night then dry patch. Well needless to say the elixir of products worked, the old 303 shot 3 in 10 shot groups after that cleaning rather than the 12 in 10 shot groups. Do I recommend it, well yup....is it safe for steel? Don't know but I have used it on several guns with no corrosion or pitting! Is it healthy stuff to use....nope, but neither is smoking or drinking too much! It also cheap and very availble. Most all copper fouling cleaners have an ingredient that desolves copper (ah.. ammonia!) But for obvious reasons it's in low content and mixed with other ingredients to help protect your barrel from corrosion, but due to small amounts of copper dissolving chemicals mixed with other chemicals it dilutes the potential, at least in my experience.

[@SyedSanan.]

You guys are lucky having a too many tools there. Here in pakistan we just use a diesel,plastic brush and a pull-through😅

[@leewilkinson6372]

Any cleaning is better than no cleaning. And, if we are all honest, that prcoess has kept alot of rifles clean enough to kill over the years. You're not wrong about us being lucky here..... there are simply TONS of products on the market that just aren't needed. The problem here is separating necessary from gimmick. ( I'm not complaining.... I love it here! But there is some silliness here...)

[@TheAxe4Ever]

You have to ask yourself what kind of shooting are you doing. I clean the barrels on my hunting rifles using a good old brass brush on Dewey rods (they’re great) no bore guide (take your time. STAY ON AXIS) and plain old Hoppes bore solvent followed by a patch ever so slightly dabbed with Clenzoil. Then dry patches until clean. Is my method correct? Well, I keep my freezer stocked with fresh back straps year round. My method does exactly what I want it to do. Stocks my freezer. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@jimherndon7618]

Is hard to beat Sharp Shoot R Wipeout or Patchout.

[@jaywright2276]

i just tried using easy off oven cleaner I applied it on patch let it soak for 15 minutes and it ripped all of the carbon off with just patches no brush.

[@ytuploads9742]

Is Hoppe's #9 any good against copper or lead?

[@donbenson5292]

Copper yes.

[@howardschwartz1462]

What about copper cleaner and lead cleaner ??

[@claudiodominguez.]

How about a carbon fiber rod, a nylon brush and a drill for the ocd.

[@nopro5433]

👍🏻

[@dragonflyfab9703]

I clean with the rifle upside down whenever I can. Soaks the top of the bore.

[@m444ss]

👍

[@gijsouwehand3772]

How if you shoot with moly bullets

[@approachingtarget.4503]

Military machine guns. 5-10000 rounds before cleanig. Soften, brush, rinse, treat, and done.

[@randytolle6706]

I keep watching for Mr Bill. Sorry had to say that.