TR6 - Measure Rear Wheel Toe at Home

A friend asked me to install adjustable trailing arm brackets on his TR6 so he can adjust the rear camber. However I thought I noticed a significant Toe In as well. It made sense to adjust the toe while we are replacing the brackets. But how to measure toe at home...?
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[@awalk5177]

I've seen this done at a race track with Formula Ford with axle stands and string. Then they measure from the string to the wheel. Four axle stands , two at the front of the car and two at the back , so you can check the track for the entire length of the car by distance from the string to the points on the car. Looking down on the wheel arch is not good possibly because the body gets narrower towards the back of the car ? Tricking the eye ?

[@tomhughes9107]

Interesting video. Mine's just back from an alignment shop and the Good part brackets are installed too. Car is sitting much nicer now.

[@cpF01]

My goodness. A reminder that the TR6 is likely the most beautiful car ever made😳.

[@omphaloskeptic4989]

Elin, nice effort to find the misalignment, but I agree with others below that you must establish a center line on the floor to be the 'baseline' for all measurements, otherwise you are comparing one variable (wheel) to another variable (wheel). This is a classic case of "two wrongs don't make a right"! lol

[@RustyBeauties]

I agree and I did find the center line. It was just not obvious, so I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@timmarsh6754]

I concur with what everyone else says. The Triumph manual tells you to drop verticals from frame points onto a flat floor and mark them with chalk. That way you can find out whether the frame is straight, and mark accurately the positions of the wheels and centerline. It also shows you if the frame is vertically straight, hogged, or twisted, by measuring from the floor to the frame. Only then can you tell if you’re measuring like for like at each corner.

[@RustyBeauties]

Well that is when you want to go into many more details, like frame straightness, camber, caster etc. Here I was looking at toe and only toe. So what I did was enough. I also found the center line, which I thought was obvious. So I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@darrellwalker1934]

I'm pretty sure the TR6 has a 1/2" narrower track in the rear from the front. But check the technical specs. Also, is the passenger side wheel more recessed into the body? Or is that just from the excess camber?

[@RustyBeauties]

It is possible, but that doesn't mater. What was important was the distance to be the same on both sides. The wheels currently have different camber so I can't tell whether is more recessed from the other.

[@darrellwalker1934]

@@RustyBeauties Maybe I'm not understanding what you are trying to do, but here is what I think would work. You have the laser parallel to the direction of the wheel. Say your laser is 2" outboard of your reference point. If the track is 1/2" less on the rear, that means each rear wheel is 1/4" in from the front wheel ahead of it. So if you align your rear wheel such that the laser hits at 1 3/4" away from the same reference point on the front wheel, then the wheel should be at 0 toe.

[@mikejackman4416]

I agree with a lot of the other comments you need to find centre line of the car..the farther you get from the rear of the car your meserment will change

[@RustyBeauties]

I agree and I did find the center line. It was just not obvious, so I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@jasonbeck5424]

If you find the longitudinal centre of the chassis and measure from the centre line to the outer edge of the rear tyres ( front and back) this will show the difference between the two wheels.

[@RustyBeauties]

That is exactly what I did. It was just not obvious, so I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@starckmad1779]

Great video Elin. My Dad did this same method on his 1939 Chevrolet as well as his 1950 and 1954. Don’t you need to find the centerline of the car? Otherwise you’re just finding the toe in/out relative to the other side of the car.

[@RustyBeauties]

I agree and I did find the center line. It was just not obvious, so I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@natesteiner5460]

I use strings. But the strings must be referenced to the frame. I measure across the frame at the front by the sway bar mounts, find the center and mark the floor. Do the same in the rear as far back as possible. Snap a chalk line on the floor, this is the vehicle centerline. Now I sets the strings on jack stands equal distance from and parallel to the centerline. Measure to the rims from the string. On the fronts, I turn the steering wheel until the number at the back of the tire is the same side-to-side and compare that number to the front of the rims for toe. The rears are set directly off the centerline.

[@RustyBeauties]

I agree and I did find the center line. It was just not obvious, so I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@carguy0000]

I used a string and safety stands for my c2 corvette, turned out perfect > I changed the stock rear stuts for adjustable ones , so much easier >> like your work .. @@RustyBeauties

[@alexanderduncan4302]

You need to find the centerline of the car, open the boot, measure the width of the boot hole,/2& make a mark place a loose loop or string around the petrol cap pull the string tight & move over the centerline mark, make a mark on the floor then measure the distance on each side !

[@RustyBeauties]

I did find the center line. It was just not obvious, so I made a follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4e1kniYhpanf7M

[@robbending3848]

It's a Triumph. Negative camber is a feature, Sir.

[@RustyBeauties]

It is good when it is the same on both sides though :)

[@stevesutton1991]

Sorry Elin but you can't measure anything from the tyres, you have to have a datum point from chassis to floor. I'm wondering if the chassis is straight