CREATING the BEST SHOP EVER with Your Ideas! UPDATED 3D PLANS!

[@steventhomson2042]

This is exciting. thanks for including all of us!

[@Clint-i3w]

Tim An invaluable addition to any shop that is worked out of are anchor points in the floor that allow you to pull down on stuff. Everyone has many was to pick stuff up, but pulling down is often overlooked. Inexpensive, easy to do and stay out of the way. You won’t regret it.

[@mjh5947]

Slight caution on the 1" of spray foam: Air sealing is a great thought, but in your (our) climate 1" could create a condensing surface in the wall where moisture goes through the bat insulation meets a cold enough surface to condense. I'd personally feel more comfortable with 2". BUT there wont be high moisture in there from cooking/showers so that's less of a concern. The wash bay might be different, though.

[@JT-1969]

Hello Tim, in your wash bay, be sure to install a good exhaust fan. During the cold months you’ll want exhaust the moisture to prevent rust, without having to open the doors. I’d also put a couple of electrical outlets and water spigots on the outside, for things like a pressure washer or other equipment you might want to use outside without having the doors open.

[@robertknight5024]

As a retired truck driver I can say I always got mad when I had to back in at a place where the architect made it so you had to back in on the right side. You should always plan a space where the driver is backing up looking in the driver side mirrors. They will appreciate it.

[@HankinsExcavating]

I love the scripture at the end,I believe it has been the best one yet!!!

[@michellessouthernhomecooki5870]

Definitely need a small kitchen nook for a mini frig, sink and lunchette area if you’re not clean enough to go into the house. So you can eat a sandwich, chips and Diet Pepsi. Maybe a small microwave or coffee pot. I’m so excited for y’all!! ❤

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Need you here to cook us up some feasts!

[@michellessouthernhomecooki5870]

@@TractorTimewithTimplanning on coming for sure. Talked about it the other night.

[@FelipeColby]

Wow, how exciting...and potentially anxiety provoking. I expect we will all learn from your experience!

[@MikeInTrafalgar]

Tim, (1) do you have any family with an RV that might visit from time to time? You could easily position an external RV electrical outlet, water bib and sewer cleanout as part of your plumbing and electrical plan. (2) consider removing the tub and replace it with a larger stand up shower with a zero entry (no curb). You'll likely never use the tub and having no curb would allow you wheel chair access if it's ever needed in the future. Thank you for sharing the ideas from others and your thoughts; very informational.

[@jw8292]

Ultimately, it's your shop, and you have to afford it and live with the compromises, but I had a few thoughts to ponder in response to your comments. If you keep the shop at 50 degrees and then turn it up to 70, it's going to take a long time for that concrete to warm up, and you're going to have a pool of cold air down on the floor until it does. I like the idea of some in floor heat, to combat this, not to mention it's silent when you're filming. Additionally, you can use that one efficient boiler to provide all your heating needs, including hot water. Definitely keep the forced air units for A/C, and quick heat recovery, but instead of a gas furnace, you can use a hydronic coil, which eliminates running gas lines and venting to the furnaces. With battery tools, I agree that air and electric outlets are less important than they used to, but you still need them for tires, battery chargers, and high demand tools, like big grinders and saws, so plan carefully. It's cheap and easy to put empty conduit in the walls for any future needs, not forgetting about outside lights and outlets. I would also consider throwing in a few passthroughs to the outside for any water/electric/communication needs that may arise in the future...PVC is cheap, breaking concrete isn't. A few words about solar. Most of the cheaper, common solar systems you see going in require grid power as a reference to function, thus they become useless in a power outage. More expensive battery systems can function independently, as well as be used to offset demand pricing. I'm not making an argument for or against here, I'm just saying you really need to do your homework and ask the right questions. Mice don't seem to like chewing/living in foam insulation the way they do fiberglass. Many is the time I wished I had a door on the back or side of a shed instead of walking all the way around the building all the time. I'd make some measurements and put some flags in the ground representing the new building, and then then live and work as if it's there, and see what you'd want to change.

[@craigrice3887]

Tim,when you place the drain in the wash bay make sure that you install a catch basin you can clean out from time to time

[@m1caudill]

Possibly reconfigure the bathroom components where a separate door from the shop could be added into the bath.

[@haroldphipps3457]

Good idea

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I really dislike multiple doors into a bathroom.

[@jagx234]

I agree wholeheartedly on residential solar, for the exact same reason.

[@brianvarner]

To add about the subject of air conditioning to my auto repair shop. We put in two 220 units through the wall and one 110 for the office. Only really needed them for the really humid days and appreciated them. Electric cost was hardly noticeable.

[@johnkraus2637]

Our auto mechanic has a forced air heater that runs on the oil he drains from the vehicles!! having fun watching this project

[@aaronburford5701]

Boy, Tim I needed this video! Thanks for this!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Good to see you back online!

[@NYTROeast]

Infrared Radiant Tube Heaters. Worked in a 60 X 100 garage and those things were great and you can set different area in the building at different temps

[@wesleyjackson1036]

Regarding the floor, I put 2" foam board under my woodshop in the barn. I didn't do in floor heat for the reasons you mention, but I wish I would have put it under the entire space. I also put trough drains in the floor that was a big win.

[@Kcolby47]

Tim, this is really cool! What a great way to share planning a shop, your research, sharing ideas, viewer comments and suggestions, as well as including us for the adventure! I’ve already picked up some ideas to help with my new barn/shop. Thanks a bunch! Blessings.

[@RobertBrothersJr-dc7nr]

You have some great ideas for your building. Thanks sooooo much for sharing this exciting project with us. I’m throughly enjoying you bringing us through the planning process and I am definitely looking forward to you bringing us along for the actual construction. Very enjoyable video TimThanks

[@dantemccan3046]

That's a good idea

[@GrampysTractor]

This is going to be a great journey to follow as you build your dream barn. Lots of great ideas coming in that would work in smaller spaces too.

[@SledgeHammer43]

Tim retired fire fighter here steel does not work as a fire stop on wood. Steel transfers heat to readily. You need two layers of drywall approximately 3/4 of a inch each layer. Also look into a product called Air Krete

[@colincox2366]

To add to his comment sprinklers cant hurt!!! Especially with the horror stories ive heard about lithium batteries catching fire lately

[@robbridges7810]

We are required to put two layers of 5/8” type x drywall and stager the joints. This is supposed to give a two hour fire rating.

[@benmccallum8974]

Came here to say the same about the steel transferring the heat. Building inspector made us do drywall also when we built something similar to what you are planning.

[@lornethornhill8452]

Can I suggest instead of the PVC pipe install a couple of air compressor outlets on the outside of the building and electrical outlets on the sides of the building (GFI) also maybe a air hose reel for pumping tires on the side of the building with air chuck. And water hose reels and electrical cord reels are great for easy storage and quick access to areas of the shop that a wall outlet may not be convenient. for.

[@catwalk136]

Good evening Tim. We have a 160x80 shop because of the nine 120ft John Deere sprayers that we use on our business, here’s a list of thing that I agree/use ourselves -we have heated floors but will pry never do it again for reasons you’ve discussed & also hard to expand or fix concrete breaks/also hard to find people to continue to service it in our rural area - pvc tube going outside for both air hose & pressure washer hose is a must! We use a 3 inch piece & then cap it off with a female banjo fitting when not in use - DRAINS are a must in my opinion - If you run an air hose from old building to new make sure it’s possibly buried deep enough for winter or else moisture in it could freeze & lose air pressure -If you do do any heated floors my opinion is to also heat any outside sidewalks attached to the building especially if they are in the shade most of the winter to help from ice build up -two items to consider splurging would be like mentioned a water fountain & also a stand up urinal in restroom like you find at truck stops next to the normal toilets, I thought the idea was silly but definitely don’t anymore! -big sink to wash not only elbows/arm deep grease off of your body but also to clean larger objects - something to consider if you’re going to be inside with equipment running a lot maybe look into an exhaust fan/tube by the location in the shop that you would do so the most -something cool to do against a wall would be to get banners from your sponsors to hang

[@haroldphipps3457]

Also, with the exhaust fan idea, hook it into a fume hood over the dedicated welding area. (If you have one). Urinal idea is 💯 % legitimate!

[@dantemccan3046]

Yes that's included

[@kingclanx4]

Some excellent ideas and comments. Some are dated for sure and not really applicable any longer, but still I'm sure you appreciate the input. I like the way you have addressed most of them. It is so easy for us to sit here and through out ideas when we don't have to worry about the budget. But obviously you have considered them and will make your own decision on what works for you. Wish you the very best on this and all of your projects. I remember building my, much smaller, workshop. It was so exciting.

[@richardwilkens4577]

I would suggest putting some floor drains in best thing we did in our shop

[@bnewton5922]

You’re planning and forethought allows for a very functional building. I just put a small addition on my pole barn after waiting for the last 3 years for prices to drop. Hopefully you’ll see some price drops in your build. I’m looking forward to the project and appreciate your sharing the process. Stay safe

[@JohnSmith-lw2bm]

Fresh air and exhaust fans for smoky tractors

[@allenjessee8860]

Hey Tim, Can’t wait to see the new shop take shape. I’ve been a long time fan and bought my 1025r in 2018 and it’s still going strong. I have been a pastor for 40 years and just passed the baton to a younger guy. Now I’m helping do some projects at the church that my role has changed! Have you ever thought of allowing churches to buy your older attachments that you are replacing with newer attachments as you continue to grow your business? Just an idea as it’s expensive to buy the things we often need to help the church and serve our community. Thanks for all you and Kristy do for so many!! I wish I lived closer to help you with some projects and continue to learn!!

[@dave.lawrence.3894]

You're doing your homework... Keep going!! Think about where your welder will be used... 🤔🤔🤔

[@jdschini]

Wishes for a Happy & Blessed Thanksgiving to you & yours!🦃😊

[@frijoli9579]

I love that your sharing this. Reconsider a section of in the floor heating. If you don't do the whole area do the area where you will stand the most. Trust me it makes a 'uge difference. Keep the temps around 60° F

[@TheDumpTrailerGuyLLC]

I cant imaging having to move so many tractors, attachments, truck and trailers to get into the pallet racking so you can till a garden or spray a field. I think my overhang for pallet racking on the outside would of been an amazing idea

[@TractorTimewithTim]

It is a good idea. Our issue is one of space on the lot. Christy doesn't really want equipment sticking out on the house side ...for looks purposes. ...and that side has the septic system which we would have to drive over. The other side is limited due to the driveway and property line. Life is full of compromises.

[@PollardGeorge]

When my friend built his shop (80x120) he bought an electric scissor lift rather than pay for several month's rental. After the build, he uses the lift as access to his mezzanine rather than have stairs intruding into the shop space.

[@MikeDamone]

Hi Tim. Last year we build a 2000 square foot shop. I highly recommend having spigots on the inside and outside of the shop. Also, a floor drain for when you are cleaning your equipment. Make sure to have a few ethernet ports for routers and hubs. My only regret is not having enough ceiling lighting.

[@AdamMuhle]

Great job really thinking through what you want before you build. Too many throw up a building and then spend the next 20 years talking about all the things they wish they'd done. I'm with you on in-floor heat. While much smaller, I faced a similar decision when building my woodworking shop in 2018. Like your plans, I keep it at 40-45 most of the time so I would have needed a unit heater either way for quick warm-up. In the end, I put my money into insulation instead of in-floor heat and I'm very satisfied. I put 2" of foam under the concrete and a one inch in the walls and ceiling before bat / blow in insulation. I wasn't sure I'd keep my shop above freezing all winter, but after tracking the heater run time very closely the first year, I determined it was only a few dollars a month extra. Even with the foam, the floor is cold. But like you, I don't lay on it much. I also use fatigue matts at all my work stations which have the side benefit of keeping my shoes off the cold floor so my feet don't get cold. The only thing I need to change at some point is adding a mini-split to keep it a little more comfortable over summer. But with my super insulation and relatively mild southern MN summers, it really isn't THAT bad as long as I don't run the big power tools a ton.

[@kyledally8410]

You could run in floor heat directly to geothermal loop to maintain 40-50 degrees and then heat up with alternative later. Also I convinced a friend many years ago to at least put the tubes in his floor. After 10 years he hooked them up. The tubing itself is cheap.

[@nahlij9696]

Insulation: I looked into poly foam when I built my house. I found blown wet cellulose to be comparably effective and much less expensive. I used rock wool in the attic. I've had no complaints.

[@nahlij9696]

Sounds like you've thought through all of the ideas logically. I believe code requires a one-hour wall between an attached garage and living space. Also a one-hour ceiling. 5/8" sheetrock meets both requirements. If you are considering power generation, be sure to evaluate the trifecta PV, Solar Water heater, and wind. The average daily wind speed October through March is at least 11mph. Batteries are the biggest expense and typically only have a 7 to 10 year lifespan. Lithium-Iron (not Lithium-ion). Looks like you're both having fun and being stressed. Good luck!

[@bradw3313]

As already mentioned, radiant tube heater system may be best option. They’re quiet and work quickly plus high and out of the way. Also, may consider a backing of some sort for those equipment racks to keep from ramming something into building walls. Something like heavy duty cattle panels.

[@Keith.Zielinski]

Shop dreaming is fun. An awesome Indiana based fan company is Fanamation down the road from y'all in Zionsville. Lifetime warranty, great folks, & a quality product, talk directly to them it's easier on the checkbook. My other suggestion is looking into geothermal, house and/or shop the operation costs are incredible. Water furnace is another Indiana company, if your intrigued let me know, the savings & rebate about pay it off. Having fun watching the ideas pour in, thank you for sharing!

[@m9ovich785]

Thanks Tim. My Shop is 30x40x10 and I will be putting in in-Floor heat. That will keep things just above freezing to maybe 50 Deg Then maybe 1 or 2 Forced air blowers from the Hot water from the OWB. I need to expel some of the heat as it is a 500'000 Btu wood burner and right now it is heating a 700sqft House & Domestic Water AHAHA It was moved from My old place of about 2400sqft. I had a 2" PVC right behind the Air Hose reel so it was easy to get air outside without the Hose getting tangled on the doors. Just wind it in when done and put the cap on. No need for the Cap inside. 3/4" Smurf Tube and box's are cheap to future proof the place for cameras Ext. Wireless Crap does not work everywhere and You still need power. With Wired connections You get power from the network connection. and with Conduits upgrades are easy. In My shop and house all My conduits come up through the Slab. nothing on the outside of any building. I can even turn on/off outside shop lights from within the House. Certain areas will have Hot water snow melt too.. Sorry to ramble on... Mike M.

[@mikehouser7587]

Good call on the compressor…. I can’t count the number of conversations mine has interrupted. If it doesn’t work to reuse the bricks you could consider repurposing them as a box planter out front or as a fire pit or pits in any of the obvious locations house or pond.

[@bwlyon]

A few points to consider based on this video. 1. If you’re going to use spray foam, I would want a barrier between the foam and the sheet metal. Because if you ever damage a piece of the metal it will make life a mess if you have to replace it as the foam will be stuck to the metal. I know everyone thinks spray foam is king, but there are other options, if you don’t want to use fiberglass insulation. The product I think is a good viable option is RockWool. Like spray foam RockWool is expensive too, but I think for a shop application it has more pros than cons. 2. I would never mount solar on the roof, they make it a pain to work on, and if you ever need to replace the roof more headaches. If possible a ground mounted solar array is the way to go! 3. When thinking HVAC with large volume heat loss with large doors opening and closing, you really need to consider radiant tube heaters for cold weather they put out a tremendous amount of heat when sized properly. We have a neighbor who has a 30x40x10 with this type of heating and man it works well. Also, you may want to consider using mini splits to cool the shop, they are efficient and you can run more than one on a pump. Tim, take your time, I know this can get trying with so many options and choices. Best wishes from MO.

[@clarencegoodlein9878]

Re: garage doors - we built 2 years ago and have 14x14 doors. BUT they have the standard track and if power goes out there is no way we can lift the doors. Talk to an experienced installer and get the type of track that you can also have a chain pulley type as a backup that typically are used in big commercial buildings.

[@floydferguson5366]

Great video!

[@johngastineau653]

I would include a small cleaning area off of the wash bay. A large box retailer has an open floor type using steel grates with a pit. It has a utility sink and storage for cleaning chemicals and mops, brooms, brushes, etc.

[@shanesherwood343]

Great video hey just one old electricians opinion in regards to outlets may add something me usb style outlets I find having them handy some flashlights and other small tools use them to charge as far as Christmas light outlets I would suggest having them wired to a timer then they go on and off automatically

[@tandp3]

As far a walking through the office with dirty shoes, design the bathroom to have a door to the shop. Ie two doors for the bathroom. As for a lift mite look into a moveable 4 corner lift one example is wildfire lifts.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

do you REALLY like a bathroom with 2 doors? We have a lift already. No need for a second one

[@KB1TBL]

​@@TractorTimewithTimI would really consider the two doors will keep the office space much cleaner if you switch the bathtub to a stand-up shower you should have plenty of room

[@leokelly359]

something you should add to the shop is a burger bar lol

[@KB1TBL]

Another thing to consider is a way to ventilate vehicle / tractor exhaust like the rubber hoses that some shops use. I have seen them hooked up to large PVC pipe with a fan to exhaust it out especially in the colder weather

[@christophergherke446]

Don't forget floor drains. Especially in the wash bay. They make cleanup of equipment much easier.

[@haroldphipps3457]

As an owner of a shop with in floor heat, and i love it! But, with your plans for fairly large temperature swings, i agree with your idea on a different heating source! 💯 % SUPPORT the solar option!! I also think you will want to leave the air compressor in the old shop! Menards has some really large ceiling fans. And the reviwes i have seen on them are surprisingly positive. The PVC tube pass thru is excellent! A friend installed a urinal in his shop rest room, as well as the toilet. Handier than it sounds. Definitely get the diet Pepsi dispenser!! Get the optional ice maker. The ONLY reason for a loading dock would be if you were going to be a seed dealer. I don't see much viewer interest for "Seed dealer time with Tim." Excited for your build! The county building permit process is a huge money grab.

[@jarods8120]

Greenheck has heavy duty Ceiling Fans also

[@jd1029]

You can put 2" foam down before concrete which will help slow down heat loss to concrete and ground

[@yayinternets]

Yes, 100%. Here in Colorado, the custom builders here will lay down foam sheets or even spray foam as a layer before running concrete. Styrofoam in huge blocks is a super common filler material in projects like overpasses and general retaining wall applications because it weighs way less than soil. So it's definitely safe to use as a base like that.

[@roybrochu5409]

Hopefully you are looking at a red iron steel framed shop. They go up quicker and you have no wood in the ground. Nothing to rot.

[@rcguymike]

If you get any amount of snow accumulation make sure where you think you might put solar is pitched enough. If you have room an adjustable ground mount is the way to go, bifacial panels can generate some power if the front is covered and the back receives ambient lighting helping to generate a little heat, it just takes a little to shed the snow/ice just like a metal roof. Unless you DIY I don't think you'll be able to get less than a 15-20 year payback. I put up a test array of ~3.6kW up here in the UP and we saved over $600 on electrical costs since the end of May. Buy panels in bulk, signature solar had the Aptos 370W panels for $96 each free shipping over $2k this past spring so I got 10 panels and a 5kWh server rack battery.

[@matthewdingman2177]

Look into exhaust fans also for the fumes that come from running equipment. That way when it's cold out you wouldn't need to open the doors.

[@charleslong3730]

Tim,put in a burger bay 😂

[@mikebougher3731]

Definitely needs a burger station! 😂

[@homesteadingkosher1005]

PVC tube for the cable to run out with out opening the door, a great idea, but I wonder how this might affect code compliance, weather seal or pest control …. Though arguably not much different ; perhaps a cat-flap / cat-door might be a more practical option that also saves you on the manual effort to screw caps on and off

[@drewwagner7985]

Love coming along with you two on this venture. You are very wise getting ideas from the masses. Although it takes time to sort through them, there are always hidden gems like the PVC passthrough by the door. I am going to do that to my shop. The couple at Ambition Strikes KZbin Channel have done extensive solar systems. Maybe try and lean on them for some planning advise. One last thought on the shop, we have a diesel emission capture system at my firehouse. Capturing and removing the diesel exhaust is important because it removes a source of carcinogens from the air and surfaces. With this connected to you home, you definitely don't want the exhaust hanging around.

[@jamiecarbone83]

You can make bathroom accessible from shop and office so you won't track through office to pee😂

[@randyosburn533]

Cheaper and less long term maintenance to buy a backup generator vs solar. Call it Tim and Christie’s Barndominium 😊

[@davidmartin7660]

Fiberglass wall panels in the wash bay, trench drains with a oil separator at the end (might be a regulation anyway) low mounted lighting in the repair area so you’re also uplighting and not fumbling with hand lights.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

If you have examples of the uplighting, please submit photos to our shop ideas site. Thanks!

[@davidmartin7660]

@ unfortunately I do not, but wish I had when I put my building up 30 years ago. Anyway, think about how a paint booth is illuminated. I end up using magnetic lights on my lift to help, but still have issues with cords. One thing I did do is build with a gambrel roof, that allowed for an (later date of one year) upper floor storage of parts. Made a big difference and kept things out or the work bays. Might want to consult Neil at Dig Dive DIY too since he has some pretty large areas to work in, but does a lot of shuffling too.

[@sarahandtim332]

20 years ago a friend painted the concrete white under the car lift. Great for reflecting lightning under the lift. He had it painted while the concrete was setting up. The painted dried into concrete.

[@jamesbainton]

For the heated floor - you could rough in the pipes under the slab and it won't be a big deal to hook up later if you decide you want it.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

So, pay all the up front price, but defer the benefits.

[@jamesbainton]

​@@TractorTimewithTimwell, saves you the cost of the heater and any gas in the meantime. Ripping out the slab later to put it in would be cost prohibitive. I personally just put 2 inches of foam and plywood above the slab. The floor stays warm enough even in our Canadian winters.

[@DougBledsoe-b8z]

Wide overhangs for possible storage or working outdoors .

[@geraldraber4375]

My parents just built a new house/shop combo. They went with the spray foam and fiberglass batt combo called flash and batt. They did a whole house off grid solar setup. There setup is 20 bifacial solar panels, 2 lithium batteries at 48 volts and 300ah each, Sol-Ark 12kw inverter. Then they have a Honda 7000w inverter generator hooked up to the system that starts automatically if the batteries get too low.

[@ThePenn7]

Evan at the Country view Acres channel has just added a solar power channel. And he recently added a shop about the size of your planned one. He probably has some good lessons learned and solar knowledge to share. He's also in southeastern Illinois not too far from you, same climate,etc.

[@jdmastertech]

I've always done 8 foot on outlets . Roll up ceiling drop cords save a lot of clutter on extension cords ever where

[@texillini1]

1) I’m jealous. I wish that I had a building. I have a total of 5.5 acres. I have a roadside vegetable stand. Only problem having a nice building like that, it would defeat the purpose of having equipment because I would no longer have the land to do my stuff. I’m in a quandary 😂 2) Check with your insurance company and see if they know of a fire resistant material that they would recommend to use for the wall. 3) Your local Pepsi distributor can get you the fountain pop dispenser and canisters. 4) The shop plans are looking really nice. Local tax man gonna love you. 5) Nice thing about the office and shop being attached, you could go to work in your pajamas if you wanted to 😂 6) I have a standby natural gas Generac 20kw generator. I love it. Solar has its place in certain situations; but if you are gonna do it (from what very little bit of research that i’ve done it) get a battery bank for the wall. Here in IL (the state with the best solar incentives in the country) most people just generate enough power for their power piggy bank to get practical free power. Problem with that is, when the power is out they are still out of power. If you have a battery bank, you have electricity to use until you run the batteries dead. Could pose a problem at night during the winter. I’d say put up panels on the ground and have battery backup if not using natural gas automatic generators like a Generac.

[@jjsjeffjjsjeff]

Mesh wifi system for the shop and house. Run ethernet or fiber in a conduit from the new shop to the old shop and terminate in the server room. Make sure you use some 19" racks for equipment and terminations. Also as far as lots of outlets goes I might consider that in a certain area, but I really like cord and hose reels. They go everywhere and you don't have to find an extension cord or hose or have to roll them up when you're done.

[@Sundancer268]

I would suggest Radiant Ceiling heat, it heats rapidly and running the length of the building there is little area you stand that leaves you in the cold. Run a 4" conduit between the old shop and new one so you can add and subtract utilities as technology advances.

[@nekoroms]

A simple comment about the fire proof materials..other cheapish option is often overlooked. Cement board..to my knowledge it does not ignite ever but if its a thin board then fire can eat through it just with enough time so its not officially tested as fireproof but its well difficult to get fire through it..aka 99% fireproof. it also doesnt rust as the metal you were thinking about.

[@Freecan67]

A exhaust Fan in Wash Bay. Check with Larson Farms on that on. They had a issue with moisture.

[@SidneyKo]

Charging station/area is a good idea. Pay attention location to other hazards such as flammable/combustible materials. You don't want these near each other as one emergency could trigger another emergency. Consider charging station on the far wall away from house as well.

[@jimhancock5047]

Can understand your thoughts on the floor heat but will still advocate for it in the wash bay. Maybe a small mezzanine? I don't like posts either and you will have a ton racking for storage on the main floor.

[@outdoorswiththebojadichs6085]

Tim before you decide to run duct work look into the Daikin mini split system as they can heat and cool and are super efficient.

[@jaysonsears8686]

Might be a good idea to add another air tank in the new shop to aid in delay and available volume if you dont plan to move the compressor

[@SSouthcombe]

Make all of your vehicle doors, including your interior wash bay door, at least 14 feet high clearance to accommodate semi-truck height vehicles. Some day your property will be sold and having the door at least this height will make it much more attractive to someone with a large RV or a trucking business.

[@randylawley6776]

Make sure you wrap your building if your going to spray foam, I'm sure you already know this, but the spray foam will warp the metal, and can have a chemical reaction to the meatal.

[@DanToman-ep4jt]

A tankless water heater a look at Trusscore wall and ceiling board. May make cleanup easier n brighter inside.

[@Jasonrcsd]

I might be the only person but the heated floors in our house bother my eyes when they are at or above 65 deg. F. Looking forward to your build!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Interesting! How does it affect your eyes? Dryness?

[@Jasonrcsd]

@@TractorTimewithTim I think it is due to the dryness. Right now the setting is at 60 and it's ok, but I can tell when it's above 67. We have heat pumps too and I'm glad for that.

[@timkd5vmv583]

Tim, as long as you are in the construction phase go ahead and put a “Safe Room” in the building. The mid west is a prime tornado area and the extra cost is actually negligible in the long run. The use of insulated concrete forms make it easy. Check with Dirt Perfect or Captain Kleeman as they use ICF in lots of projects. Signed The Other Tim With Tracr

[@wicksfarm4895]

Hi Tim Sylvain here from Shawville Quebec Canada ben watching your chanelle for a few years now love your content ,i went from a 32x48 shop with a furnace,to a second one at 40x60 with a 15x15 door with another furnace both force air it was not bad then i whent to a 60x120 shop with heated floor i went this because i am a firewood seller so i went with a outside boiler i have a 18 wide x16 hight door and 18 foot wall interior wall and exterior all tin #1 water proof #2 fire retardant ,here in the winter it goes down to minus 25 C or minus 13 F the person that told you that the recovery time is slow for heat is full of manure ,at minus 15F outside and the temperature in the shop is 40 it only take about 15 to 20 minute to warm it up to 50 F even at that temperature when i bring truck semi in or heavy equipment you dont even feel it 20 feet from the door by the with of the shop it is a separate loop and a different thermostat i have this shop for 6 year now and the best investment ever also even if you dont go under the vehicule and equipment your feet are still on the floor that was the problem with my other tow shop my feet were always cold shop was 60F and my feet were freezing and the noise of the fan when the furnace was turning on and in this shop I have air conditioning to there wall unit the same as Math from diesel creek Tim Good luck and may god bless you and your family

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Helpful. Thanks!

[@TallTexasGMan]

I know exactly what you mean regarding the the Big "name" brand ceiling fan. We can not use them either because of their name in government buildings. Thankfully, there are several competing brands like Ameriwind Fans and my favorite is Windmill Ceiling Fans of Texas. They take common large farm windmills and turn them into a really awesome ceiling fan.

[@adammiddleton4037]

What is the brand?

[@janskoropinski10]

Hi Tim, very nice video. I was thinking about the PVC pipe with caps for running a extension cord to give you an outside source of power. I think that it is an excellent and unique idea, on an existing building. I was thinking about the logistics of hooking it up every time you wanted to use a outdoor extension cord. You are building a new building and since you probably won’t want to have 30 feet of cord running in your he building. Chances are you will install an outlet close to where you want the PVC pipe going through the wall. So why not just put an outdoor outlet in place of the pipe. You can have one on the inside and the outside. To me the convenience of just plugging the cord on the outside and then to the table saw would be preferable. Just think about where you might need the pipe and put an outdoor outlet. That way if you decide you need 6 or 8 locations that the pipe idea would work; just, install an outdoor outlet. Just my thoughts.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yea, I will have outdoor outlets. Not totally sure about outdoor air. But you are right. What else would I want to run through such a pipe?? Might not use this...so maybe not needed.

[@janskoropinski10]

Actually having outside air at both doors is an excellent idea.

[@miketheadventureking]

Would a pocket door help with the tight fit going into the restroom? It looks like the door opens very close to the sink. Also, grandchildren might be in your future. Having a place for them to play basketball during bad weather might be nice. Consider scissor rafters and a basketball hoop.

[@brianvarner]

Here it goes Tim: I had installed in-floor heat and white porcelain tiles in my four bay auto repair shop in 2008. They're is good and bad. Most important in Minnesota was the comfort. It was 70 degrees of even heat everywhere you stood. If we brought in four cold cars covered in snow at the same time then yes it got cold and then humid as the snow melts. But that was a rare occurrence. I had kept the 400,000 btu overhead furnace and used it in those times and opened the doors to dump the humidity. . The gas bill was amazing. I think my worst was $250 in a month. I've been retired three years so probably more now. The tile was slippery at times but concrete can be too. Benefit of the white tile is light refection and you can see the oil spots. With a little LED you need to sunglasses and being able to see the oil you change how you work and everything becomes cleaner. Then there was your feet get hot and sweaty. I got athlete's foot more so you really have to care for your feet more. Then the noise or rather the lack of it! We had a small basement and put the boiler (and both compressors) down there. No Noise!!! My opinion: in-floor and tile if you can afford it. Love your KZbin. You are setting a great example for people willing to listen.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Very helpful. Thanks! And thanks for the kind words!

[@charlesclack5026]

Thank you i feel the same way about the fans name

[@billg364]

Solar caution: it will not provide power during a power outage without batteries due to the rapid shutdown feature if grid-tied. If you dont have true "net" metering, the payback is slim if it ever does pay back. A true standby generator would be more reliable.

[@mercurymangarage6186]

It’s going to be an awesome shop. I highly recommend solar. We have it on our house here in Michigan. Our electric bill for June this year was 18 cents. That’s right…. Maybe you could do a collaboration video with Evan from country view acres. He did a nice array on his shop.

[@DS-jk5zr]

Adding square feet is never cheaper than in the planning stage. I've never had a project that after the build something should have been wider or longer. Having large eaves to protect doors pays off in the long run. Also a laundry tub in the shop in the wall shared with the bathroom keeps dirt in the shop. Your plan looks great.

[@lauren22megan23]

You have a pond so you might want to consider geothermal closed loop system. We have it in our 1955 brick house and love it.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

My geothermal has been a disaster. Spent $28,000 on it...and STILL have to use electric resistive heat when it gets below 20F.

[@Frontpagefab]

@@TractorTimewithTim A friend of mine put geothermal in when they built their house in the 90's and after many years of trouble and expense, they gave up and went to GFA..

[@GizmoTucker]

Fire insurance with connected buildings could be a thing

[@scottkonik3398]

Just a thought on heating the shop it’s better to keep the shop instead of keeping it cool and heating up when needed. It will cost less to maintain a constant temperature than constantly heating it up and then letting it cool down and reheat the area. I’m talking from experience.

[@jeffreycurrie3410]

IMHO receptacles, 1 on every side, outside. People do install at eaves, too. I think more for ice melt(leave gfci at ground level)I would use quad receptacles. Every 15 or so feet. everything with a bare concrete floor has to be GFCI protected. Thanks for sharing.

[@mikegraziano1562]

One of the things that my town requires with a shop that big (more than 3 bays) is a drain in the floor with an oil separator. You'll need 5/8" fire rated sheetrock (all the way up to the roof) on the adjoining wall to the living area as well as a metal fire rated door with an automatic door closer. There needs to be a 7" step down into the shop area from the main house. Your town might also require a fire sprinkler system in the shop, exit signs and fire alarms. Do you plan to epoxy the floors? I believe you need 2" or 3" of spray foam in your area to stop condensation from forming and ruining the batt or blown in insulation. I used a white fabric that's made for blown in insulation (kind of looks like weed block but white) I was able to rent a blower from Home Depot, put in 54" of blown in and then later put up the sheetrock. Get at least an 18" wide garage door. Run a CAT6 wire out to the shop so you can set up a WiFi hot spot. While you're filming you'll need to turn off the blower to the AC/heat. Have you considered a mini split system? The town might also make you put in an eye wash station and sink in the work area. Plan on having pull down air hose lines that retract automatically. On a side note, I went to my towns tax office with the plans for my 3 car garage and asked how much my taxes would be...their reply? We don't know, build it and THEN we'll tell you! LOL! Well... it's over a $1000 a year extra! Check with your insurance Co. as a shop that big will most likely put you into commercial use...BTW The town might not let you do that type of garage in a residential area! The area with all the racks on both sides doesn't look wide enough for a tractor with forks to take down attachments off the shelving, unless you plan to get a real forklift As far as lighting plan on workplace zones, rather than flipping one switch and every light in the shop turns on. . Good luck & hope these suggestions were helpful!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Most of this addressed in our earlier video. Not even sure you watched all of this video, as our forklift was shown

[@mikegraziano1562]

Sorry I took 40 min of my time writing this up & your time reading it! My repel was not only for you but for others that are thinking of doing something like this.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

@@mikegraziano1562 fair enough. I read it as directed at me alone. Sorry.

[@ethankincaid9022]

I’m here in Indy and had my shop spray foamed. Company said you need 2” spray foam to be considered air water and moisture tight. 1” might not be enough to get what you are after. Call around and ask companies

[@cboutdoorfun9955]

Have you considered mini split heating and cooling systems? Those can be diy friendly, they are efficient and would pair really well if you get solar