WORST FEAR REALIZED! John Deere 3520 Auction Buy MAJOR ISSUE! Can I Find a Cheap Fix?

[@ericcrockett479]

I own a welding shop and my suggestion would be not to put a bolt in it but since theat mount is a thicker piece just to weld up the hole. Start by welding around the edge of the hole and keep going around until you have the hole filled. Something that works good to clean rust is a air powered needle scaler or needle gun

[@tylerd4522]

Admittedly, I know very little about welding, though I have done a little many years ago. I was going to recommend something similar - a sort of dome weld around the top. Seals the hole and makes water flow away from it.

[@neilkratzer3182]

As welder and fabricator I agree 100%. Clean it as clean as possible and weld the holes shut. Since the rest of it sealed itself you shouldn't have any problem.

[@1ton4god]

Something else too if use the bolt you should have sanded all the galvanization off and been wearing a mask when he welded it. I've been welding for years, and that stuff can make you deathly sick.

[@bluegrallis]

I would have cut a piece of round stock to fill the hole 3/4 of the way, then welded it in and fill the hole. Less chance of any spatter or slag getting in JMO.

[@duralweeden5423]

Welding a good fix, I would have used round bar instead of a bolt or circled the hole until closed, descale & paint. No grinding smooth. But everyone is different so what feels right do it

[@Kcolby47]

Sometimes we don’t go looking for things that need to be done, those things seem to find us. Also, it appears to me you present tractor and other info in an objective “pros-cons” in a constructive style. Surely we each have our bias view, but you present in a helpful, transparent style. Keep up the good work. Blessings.

[@daveharper5655]

I think that you’re one of the most honest and least biased people there is, do you love Deer, yes, but that is not a failing. You are an excellent source of tractor information, you can also tell the amount of time you put into your videos. Tractor guru, all the best to you and yours.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thanks Dave. A video just came out from TYM/Tony. The FB post said I was ‘gaslighting’. Wow!

[@khtractors]

The galvanization on those bolts will make the weld harder to perform even for an expert. Grade 8 bolts won’t have the galvanized finish which makes them easier to weld for future reference. I do believe your solution will work fine!

[@morganbretz9874]

Hey Tim! I didnt go through all the comments to see if anyone else suggested it. What about greasing a tap to catch the filings and tap it to fit a pipe plug that you can put some good sealant on. Then you dont have to weld it but would serve the same purpose. Just a suggestion. Keep up the good videos

[@chjp2346]

That's exactly what I was thinking!!

[@dwaneengland555]

Get it apart, cleaned then use rust stop, then weld both the steel and aluminum

[@cpududester]

Tim, thanks for taking the time to show us the work you've been doing on your tractor. Regarding your welding challenges... Four things must be considered prior to welding: 1 - Metal type/thickness. 2 - Voltage. 3 - Polarity. 4 - wire type/diameter. Most welding machines have a chart to get you started, but you may have to make some minor adjustments. I suspect if you were using a MIG welder, your excessive splatters may be attributed to incorrect polarity for your wire type that you chose. Good luck, and keep up the good videos 👍

[@jamesjamesd9556]

How about a shop vac to remove the majority of the debris then follow up with compressed air. Less mess and better for the allergies. Also a coat of "Rust Reformer" before paint couldn't hurt unless that means an extra trip to town. Nice farm repair. 👍🏼

[@joshbond8676]

Fixed is fixed. So good job Tim. Don't worry about the negative comments, some people are always looking for an argument or to gain from using your name to benefit them.

[@alittleofthisandalittleofthat]

Great job, hats off for tackling it yourself. I’m a beginner welder too. Bit here and there over the years but struggle to get the welder set just right. I hear people say, “ bacon frying) is the sound you want to hear. You mentioned silicone and the first thing came to mind is JB weld! It’s good stuff. I think I would have mixed some up and filled the holes or coated the bolts, put them in and a good coating under the bolt head and up over and around the bolt head. After it cured paint things up. While the tire was off a good cleaning of the linkages and a spray of lube on those linkages. I also was hoping you would dig out an inspection camera to view down that deeper hole before you fixed. I know someone not too far from me that bought a big cab tractor from a local town with lots and lots of rust from a salt spreader, I think I’ll send him this video to bring attention to him on this matter. 👍

[@rickyoung360]

My suggestion, after the fact of course would be to epoxy a metal plate over the two holes. Regarding the issue you were having with the weld, the plating on the bolts should have been removed prior to welding. If the plating on the bolt were removed prior to welding, you would have likely gotten a nice weld.

[@alancarpenter1437]

Sorry Tim I would not have fixed that the way you did. Like another guy posted the corrosion needs to be dealt with too. I would have unbolted the steel and sandblasted and welded off the tractor. No need to put a bolt in there, weld it and grind it flat so there is no witness line. With the roll bar off you could clean up the aluminum and possibly use a pipe tap to plug the hole. Then paint both parts and put back together.

[@jimhaugh6851]

Being honest sometimes hurts people's feelings or ego, honestly I think every thing I've seen you do you have been very truthful if they find fault with the truth then they are watching the wrong video I'm thankful for your videos, every tractor mfg. Has their own set of faults. Thank you for your videos

[@snymat_68]

Tim, as an RK24 owner of several years, I completely agree with your views on rebranded tractors. If someone doesn't have the knowledge and means to source their own parts and perform their own repairs, they should most definitely go with a mainstream brand with a good dealer network in their area. My RK (for the most part) has been a little tank, but there have been several issues over the years that RK parts & "service" has been ABSOLUTELY 100% worthless to help with. All tractors will have issues. The owner just needs to decide up front if they want help with them or not. Keep up the great content! 👍

[@richardw.foxhall3392]

Tim, clear accurate info can never insult a reasonable person. We need accurate info to form our own opinion. So thanks for your efforts. Welding takes practice.

[@mikerhett4646]

Keep it up. People need to have as much information as possible. You are adding to that knowledge base.

[@bruceguidosh2120]

From experience, once a steel and alum matching point begin corrosion, alum will continue to corrode and flake off, just like battery acid on steel! Welding will burn the gasket, so there may STILL be a way for moisture to get in. I wish you luck! This is the main reason I stayed away from rear housings with alum

[@matthewkitchen5425]

I know enough about a few things to get myself in trouble. The heat from welding will disturb the “seal” between the pieces. Plus just how compromised is that aluminum housing?

[@frederickburns1739]

On one of your commentors mentioned the fact that you've got two two dissimilar metals and once the reaction starts between the two it's a no win situation! And the white powder coming out of that hole was probably the aluminum that is breaking down!!!

[@crbourret]

I took a beginners welding class at the local Community college so I'm about as proficient as you at welding. But it's enough to do the things I need to do to keep my equipment operational. That's all we need if we're doing it strictly for ourselves.

[@Warren-e8c]

We had the same problem, put thick gasket rubber between housing and steel plate then weld plate over hole, comen problem , done a couple. Very good reliable tractor, If you find it tipsy get the firestone turf and field tires and rims.

[@pdmanfarm3520]

I hope you never have to apologize for simply telling the truth, opinions aside. More power, brother.

[@philipgrubbs9757]

Tim keep making the videos the way you want to. I’ve been watching since you lived in Carmel and love your videos! Please don’t change or listen to the nasty comments! We love your videos!

[@jimtischer-yv8qg]

Tim I did not notice any oil residue on any of your metal, You're tools or shop towels, so I think that you fixed your problem before it was a bigger problem. You will find out when you service the rear end. Thank you and your family.

[@mdh7812]

Tim, I have been watching your video for years and I know you are more or less a John Deere person, but that doesn't take away from your videos , or what you show on your channel. Myself, I own a Kubota L3901DT, but I have learned somethings from you. I think what you did should work to keep dirt and water out of the axle housing as long as there isn't any rust though under the square tube that supports the cab.

[@Morpheen999]

Ive really been enjoying watching you get an older tractor and fix it up Tim! keep up the good work!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thanks. This has been a lot of fun for me. It would be miserable if it were my only tractor, or if I were broke and could not afford the parts…or if I had no interest in or tools for the repairs. Goes to show that there are different situations for different times.

[@bucklemon9945]

Tim, you do an excellent job explaining all about everything that you do on your channel. I have never seen or felt that you talk down any other brand. Like you said the John Deere is not new and I’m sure it will be fine. Yes, I would follow it up with a service later just to make sure you don’t have any metal particles or grinding particles down in there By the way, I have owned John Deere, Oliver, Kubota , Massey Ferguson, Ford, and New Holland, so I’m not stuck on any particular brand. One thing about buying a tractor versus a car. You have to think about 20 years down the road because with a tractor you probably will still have it and the car will be long gone.

[@eosjoe565]

I would have been inclined to paint that with some rust neutralizer prior to painting. I've used "Rust Encapsulater" spray from Eastwood in the past and it worked very well.

[@DF5152]

next time grind the plating off the bolts first that would help with spatter and such. If your still worried about leakage slather some JB weld over the top.

[@keithklockars9932]

Tim if you haven't already done all the scraping i have had good luck with adding some constant air pressure to the rear end (5-10 psi) thru the filler cap while you are scraping around. The positive pressure will blow the chips out as you are scraping and scratching. You will have to manufacture a plug for the air to attach to the filler plug. Good Luck!

[@rcguy18]

Hearing the price and time to change to housings, I think u did well in just welding up the holes.

[@chavy85]

What we did on our work 3320, 3720 was tap the hole, then use thread sealant on the bolt.

[@Bunk599]

Plugging the hole is one issue. I suggest the longer term issue is stopping the galvanic corrosion resulting between the dissimilar metals. Unchecked it will eventually cause the aluminum to disintegrate. As a retired HD truck R&D engineer I have seen many examples of this failure. It is necessary to electrically insulate the two metals by a non conductive barrier. The current layer of rust will not stop further deterioration. A plastic gasket would work or more commonly a layer of Alumilastic is applied between the metals. I have seen examples of ½" aluminum truck frame rails completely disappear where cast iron suspensions brackets attach. Love your channel, good luck.

[@billwhitman1529]

I'm guessing you'll do both sides? I see, I think I'd find some of that paint that stops rust in its tracks and put it where needed.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I’m hoping you’ll watch the rest of the video?

[@JohnSmith-tv5ep]

Tim, an auto body supplier sells panel glue in a calking tube. It's for sealing body panels at the seams. This stuff flows well ,tools good and is water proof. Fills all voids completely.

[@garybarker256]

You may have got this suggestion, but a freeze plug that goes in a block would work. They make them in all different sizes.

[@robbailey1234]

Tim giving someone info on rebranded tractors should not be a insult to anyone, if it is then it is the fault of themselves if they feel insulted! You try to give helpful info to help save people time looking and money spent in the long run. Who can fault a person for helping. Some people have millions to spend and do not care what it costs, while others cannot spend till the bank says that's enough and time to sell you off! Have a great day!

[@stanhensley3082]

Tim,just think of how many of us who own JD compact 🚜 are going to look and see if they need to plug some holes. You many be helping more then a few. Great video!! Now I am going to my shed and take a good look at behind the wheels. Thanks 😊.

[@ronpearce35]

Tip Tim, Always use black bolts to weld in. Plated and galvanised bolts will lead to weld porosity. Ie holes. Or grind the plating off back to bare steel around the bolt head. Weld done for tackling the job.

[@jefferynelson6381]

I'm sure people have already said this but a simple rosette weld would be easy and you could keep grinding it flat and welding until you are happy with the seal. I would also use a rust converting coating and or cold galvanize followed by a uv coating of some sort. Welder settings are different for almost every machine but an easy way to think of the settings is to imagine the setting doesn't consider the thickness of the project but the measurement is how deep the weld puddle will penetrate... so if your material is 1/2" thick and you set the machine to 3/8" setting it wont be capable of fully welding the piece without a groove. The opposite of that scenario is if you set the machine for 3/8" and are welding 1/4" material you might blow through and have a hard time connecting the materials as the metal will be too hot and try to pull itself away from the weld. This might not be the best explanation but its how i think of the settings to set my machine.

[@BattlestarCanada]

"Grinder and Paint make me the welder I ain't" Well done Tim, she obviously needs a little TLC but I think you overall have a decent machine there.

[@earlyriser8998]

Loved the saying....maybe use it myself

[@buggyman9024]

Tim, if you were able to put a piece of sheet rubber between the cab support and the axle housing you would seal it and prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.

[@pacoal]

Or a thin sheet of polyethylene, any type of material to provide electrical insulation.

[@christophersiano969]

You're fine. Just run it enough to keep any moisture evaporated off. Chances are you got more moisture inside from simple condensation than from leaking. As for the corrosion, I think you are correct in that the mating surfaces are now fused and not an issue unless you needed to separate them. The holes are now plugged. I'm sure there will still be some corrosion due to residual, but it will be minimal and filters and fluid changes will take care of the issue. BTW, the weld that does the job is the one that is good. Yes, if it was some critical structure, you want the proper depth and joint, but for most projects, this kind of thing is plenty strong enough. I've done who know how many welding projects over the years. A great many are not "the right way", but sufficient for the job. Heck, I even got pissed at the stainless handle on my grill breaking off the threaded insert and hit it with a standard MIG setup (not a stainless setup) and it's held just fine now at least 15 years. It's all hidden in the handle and can't be seen when bolted up. WIN. In 2015, I welded a bracket to mount a topcase on my motorcycle that wasn't designed for a topcase. Sure, I way overdid it in material thickness, but even after the abuse I've given it with FAR too heavy loads it is just fine. Pretty welds? Nope. Strong? Seems strong enough. Only welding I've seen fail was a joint I specifically didn't weld strong. One of those pitching net things at the local youth field was falling apart. The net was fine, but the frame had been left out and all the joints were held with set screws that had rusted badly and most were loose. I broke or cut all the bolts off, welded the main part of the frame, but the foot bars on the bottom, I just tacked in place worried that if I made them strong, the kids would bend the tubes. Well, they both bend the tubes AND broke those welds. I have since added some 3" angle iron and notched it to hold the frame. 1) that isn't going to bend and 2) It's a lot heavier now so it takes a couple kids to pick it up and move it.

[@steventhomson2042]

I believe you fix was perfect for what you were working on. Great job!!!!

[@curtanderson8655]

I worked for John Deere and sometimes they would use 1 part on several different applications. The holes that you plugged, that plate might have gone on all the tractors that had a cab. Some holes might have not been needed in your case. The other thing is you are just plugging a hole so you could have ground down the edges to make it easier to weld. Just a thought and thank you for all you do. We enjoy your videos so much no matter what you are doing. Thank you

[@lipscombjared]

I like the Jb weld idea too. I think what you did would be good though. If you went the flat steel over the housing you would have had more to seal up. I did have a question though about lil Johnny and the increased hydraulic pressure. How does that effect the 3pt hitch lift capacity? I didn’t remember it being discussed in that video I’ll have to go back and watch it

[@tcmits3699]

Remove ROPS bolts, raise ROPS frame, insert 300 series SS sheet stock, won't react to aluminum or mild steel. Or just install Dorman expansion plugs in holes? Good luck 🤞 usually the simplest is the best!

[@davidlinux]

The build up of dirt on the 3520 really drives home the need for us all to keep our equipment clean. A full car wash or a Larson Farmers type of clean is not needed but just hose it off after use. Even on the farm we used to hose off equipment especially after spreading manure. That stuff really corrodes. I really enjoyed your painfully honest experience on this tractor. Thank you for doing these videos.

[@mbjKrakenEngineering]

If you can get the ROPS bar removed, tap the holes from the bottom, then add a bolt from the top side. You could add a washer and seal it with silicone.

[@robertginther9248]

The marine industry uses 3M 5200. Cut off a bolt of the correct size; coat the bolt & the hole with 5200; insert bolt & let set for 48 to 72 hours. It now takes King Kong to pry that cutoff bolt out of there. The black 5200 is better than the white.

[@erice9536]

And don't get 5200 on your fingers, might take a couple weeks to get off! :) Good stuff!

[@na-et2gp]

As good as 5200 is I don't think I'd ask it to do this job personally. Having restored a few boats I do trust 5200 below the waterline for at least a few years. I'm not sure its up for rusty steel in a greasy/oily/muddy environment, maybe im wrong. I'd look at jb weld if pursuing a "tube" based solution first. Welding them closed strikes me as a better fix

[@robertginther9248]

@@na-et2gp Grand Master marine tech for 49 years. Alcohol dragster builder/driver for ten. 5200 works on dry concrete, metal, rusty metal, plastics, & lots other. Held back our oil storage tank seam for almost 20 years. Gas didn't even hurt it.

[@na-et2gp]

@@robertginther9248 interesting experience you've shared here, that's pretty impressive. I did have an experience where 5200 did release on me that's given me pause, or at least caused me to think, when using 5200. That use case was high gloss polyurethane paint on my console and white 5200 sealing around the base of my hydraulic steering unit. after a few years the steering developed a slow leak which ran fluid over the 5200 for a few seasons. when I finally fixed it I found the 5200 released very easy, basically along the lines of failed caulking. when the 5200 was originally applied it was freshly painted and a new steering unit. in retrospect this was a job better suited for 4200, at the time I used 5200 above and below the waterline on that boat and have come to regret that decision on a few occasions when undoing that work above the waterline, stuff can really hold well in the right conditions. but for me it showed there are conditions where 5200 isn't the end-all be-all adhesive some report or assume. it can release under the wrong conditions. it's possible I applied the 5200 before the paint fully cured. it's possible I didn't clean the new steering unit sufficiently, so the 5200 failure may have been partially my fault and/or the high gloss surfaces to blame. I believe the leaking hydraulic fluid played a part as well when one of my hydraulic trim tabs developed a leak the 5200 used there also released fairly easily, putty knife and a few minutes and my tab and hull were totally cleared of 5200. neither were damaged, it wasn't tightly bonded. I cleaned and fixed, re-sealed with 5200 but I'm aware it's able to fail and keep an eye on all of my seals below the waterline. your reported experience did raise my curiosity, 3m's datasheet does include recommendations along the lines of avoiding alcohol around 5200 when curing. 3m recommends use of a primer for better adhesion (in my case the 5200 failing to adhere well was high gloss paint), recommends use of sandpaper to rough up the surface prior to application. 3m does recommend avoiding grease, oil or other contaminates that may discourage a strong bond. I feel like my experiences with 5200 match well with what's in the datasheet and I'd personally consider other options for the use case presented in this video knowing it's an oily environment. I will continue to use 5200 for applications below the waterline but I personally don't trust 5200 100% of the time. like any adhesive it's only as good as the surfaces and prep and could fail at some point. I've always used white 5200, sometimes the fast cure version. your comments that black is better than white 5200 def has me curious though, think I'll grab some of the black stuff to try at some point. if the black is a stronger bond than the white we may be talking about different products

[@shawnblackwelder9067]

Tim, You need a chemical conversion coating for the steel and aluminum, the steel conversion coating is a product made by DuPont called Ospho or another product made by Loctite called Extend. These products are applied to light surface rust on steel and they etch the surface and change existing rust to an inert substance (the red oxide turns black and stops rusting). After the product is applied it is ready for paint, don’t disturb it paint it. The chemical conversion coating for aluminum is commonly called Alodine, it will not kill corrosion that must be removed by grinding or blasting, then alodine can be brushed on or the part dipped. To use the Alodine the multiple parts must be disassembled. After both parts are treated and painted there should be a good sealant between the mating surfaces when reassembled. You have dissimilar metal corrosion and since the two parts are in constant contact corrosion will continue to grow until metal failure. Once the part are treated and reassembled I would apply sealant to the void and create a runoff for water, dirt, debris and the new sealant dam will protect the surface. 39 year corrosion specialist for the Navy and Marine Corps aircraft.

[@southlakelife]

Well done Tim. Glad you caught it now and not when it's too late. Depending on your mig wire size, with 1/4" Carbon steel you are generally looking at 240 wire feed speed or 155 amps with .035 the Flux Core you seem to be using. I think you did the most common sense repair you could manage. Great job!

[@frankhartmeyer9841]

Hi Tim of all the KZbinrs I watch, I have always enjoyed your videos. No matter what others might say. Keep up the great job of videos.👍

[@cwgreen1938]

Tim, I think your fix on the corrosion is as good as you need but I think aluminum corrosion like rust will continue to grow if it is not treated with something that will kill the chemical reaction. In other words in my opinion just covering it even if you keep air and water getting to it will not keep the action from continuing. Tim, I am looking for some pallet forks to go on my 3033R, preferably good used ones. What length if forks can I use on this tractor? I don't think I want the type that clamps onto the bucket of the loader. Your opinion would be appreciated. I like your honesty and the clear to understand suggestions that you offer. Thanks.

[@davidwho8215]

I wonder if you had enough depth in those holes to tap them, and just cut a bolt short and thread it in with some thread sealant.

[@michaelboswell4318]

Tim they make a paint product that will lock in the rust and slow it down. You may want to consider using that first. Good job thinking out of the box for sealing that.

[@caseyholmes686]

Well mr. Tim this is Casey Holmes been watching your channel for a long time and I am a heart patient they supposed to do a hard cast on me the 27th of this month I just wish I could say a little prayer for me I'm hoping I don't have no blockages but I have been very weak and not been able to get around as much maybe this will fix me up and also I do have a little 1023e John Deere with a 54-inch deck that I really enjoy cuz I enjoy watching your Channel God bless you and your family

[@tomoaktree4951]

Hi Tim, How about making a plate that will cover the holes that is held down by two of the mounting bolts. Clean up the area, prime and paint it then add a bead of silicone between the new plate and the existing surface. Welding next to the aluminum surface might cause additional problems.

[@dang5025]

I am a big fan of the liquid metal. I used a hose clam on a half shaft once in my car and it eat a hole in the aluminum case of the transmission. I Lost all the oil in the trany. Used liquid metal and filled the hole. Worked until sold the car 75000 mile later. Just an FYI. Thanks again for all you guys do. Very much enjoy your channel.

[@richardcollins6058]

Your doing a great job! We love your show. Don’t listen to all the complainers.

[@bradwatkins7241]

My suggestion is to have two plates to fit under the cab brace. So it covers all the holes and you can seal it easier. So in a way you would be using it as a gasket.

[@ll1697]

For years I've appreciated your fun and informative videos! There are some real "tools" out there that feel better when they are negative about other people. You and your wife are great!! I don't even own a JD, but learn a lot and have fun watching. I know you won't do it, but I will give those nay sayers the finger for you:)

[@harveyrousejr.2069]

Find some cork material and cut to have a thin snug plug. Fill the hole with JB Weld. The cork will prevent the JB Weld from getting in the differential.

[@EOTG_AK]

I love my Knipex cobra pliers! If you haven’t tried them the Knipex pliers wrenches are fantastic. They have mostly replaced my use of crescent wrenches. You can save some money on the 8 and 10” sizes by going with the Irwin brand but the Knipex are obviously higher quality. I have a set of the 5” pliers wrench and matching cobras that literally live in the tool slots of my cargo work pants.

[@noelstractors-firewood57]

Just a couple of thoughts. I would have used a vacuum in there while digging out the holes. You now have no way to check for corrosion now, in those holes with the bolts welded in. I think I would have used cork plugs in those holes. Another thought would be, weld flat steel across those holes, then install grease nipples or oil cups above each hole. Then grease or oil when doing the tractor service. Just my thought, don’t mean to indicate that how it should of been done. Any way. Great video.

[@robertkelly2905]

Put in a piece of cold rolled in each hole so they come up flush with the plate, then weld them in. You could use a bolt cut to fit the hole. Do both sides. Sand blast the frames and paint with zinc chromate paint. Paint over that with truck liner.

[@jon592xp]

I would definitely change hydraulic oil and filter. And I would see if there is a sump screen to clean.

[@jimstruve3602]

Looks like a great "bush fix" to me! Considering the tractor age and condition,, it appears to be an appropriate tactic. In the long run, better than trying to fill the holes with silicon or JB Weld that could have dropped into the case and would be potentially damaging. Plus it would be way easier to get down to good metal on a flat surface than trying to get a clean sealing surface inside the holes.

[@richardrubert1359]

Good job, Tim. Ignore the trolls. There are too many people out there that derive far too much pleasure in being mean.

[@jakeschisler7525]

A good way to take off galvanized coating is use vinegar and usually it does it quickly. Then i use a flap disc to make it clean and maybe some acetone on both parts. The door on the welder gives you a starting point for the thickness

[@MikeCris]

JB Weld the bolts in place. I don't see why welding is necessary...as there's nothing structural about blocking those holes.

[@ralphjelomono9068]

Nice simple and cost effective repair. Good idea. I believe you took the right approach. Hey if it doesn't work then you can jump into the major repair and full part change out but your fix will probably last many years. New rubber looks great.

[@myk55501]

Hey, Here's how I'd go about temporarily repairing it.Drill out the holes a little bigger, get a thousandth bigger steel rod, heat the steel base, and freeze the new tapered plug. Yes. You can get a machinist to cut a plug out. Freeze it in liquid nitrogen. This should seal the hole. Now for the final fix Replace the housing and use a gasket like truck mud flap rubber as a gasket. Between two different metals. Sandblast the rusted area, then apply rust restorer and paint. do both sides. Fun!

[@kbar1590]

When you get splatter like that the first thing to look at is the ground contact. Also a needle gun works wonders on those inside corners and hard to get areas. Next a rust neutralizer like Corroseal should be applied before paint 12:36 to the active rusty areas you don’t grind or chip off.

[@BobsOutdoorActivities]

I think what you did is more than fine. Also, I look forward to your next video on the new tires.

[@martineastburn3679]

Outside a good spray bath would be best. But it is complex to work in dry mud it is so fine. The filament is likely from bales of hay. They wrap rolls and such.

[@2LateIWon]

Needle scaler and wire wheel would have been your best friend on your fight with rust. Then I would have welded around the inside of the holes and fill the holes in as it cools. If you are using flux core welding wire you are going to get splatter.

[@robertsmith9547]

I think you used thee best solution. Just filling in the holes with weld you would take a chance on getting splatter in the housing. Unless you had it sandblasted(which would get sand in the housing) JB weld or silicone would eventually not seal due to rust. A plate would work also. One concern is what is on the metal left in the hole and what is left between the mount and housing. It could get worse. Good luck. If the rest of the tractor is a keeper, replacing the housing in the near future when you have some downtime might save in thr long run.

[@bradw3313]

Looks like a good fix to me….worse thing is if it doesn’t work and then you haven’t lost anything. I too would have went with JB weld as I’ve used it on a cracked block and it’s held for 20 years. Wonder if adding one of those electronic anti corrosion devices to frame would help stop the corrosion?? Those are pain areas to keep clean….I use a long air wand and blow em out after use as I blow everything else off.

[@Shane_O.5158]

in Australia we have a product called : rust converter, that will paint on and kill rust, then spray paint over it with galvanised paint.

[@garynelson4749]

im not a fan of welding in situations like that, i probably would have tapped the holes and put in a bolt with thread sealer or similar or made a rubber plug with a small bolt thru it so when tightned it would expand to seal the hole like a rubber freeze plug, but if it works its fine and doesnt have to be perfect (perfect would be replacing the housing which remains a option in the future) ....im curious of you have noticed any milkyness to the hydraulic fluid attributable to actual water intrusion from this area

[@bryanforney6063]

what ever you decide to do, when you have it sealed check out POR15 paint, it stops rust an seals everything

[@akdouglas6633]

After the painting you should spray undercoating oil all around area especially inside cab mount tubing.

[@kylem204616]

Grind it clean. Cut a square patch that will cover it. Grind the back side of the patch. And use some automotive 2 part epoxy (panel bond) to put the patch on. No welding required. And will seal it out too

[@michaelfinney2160]

Not a good situation for sure ! The welding up the holes probably is a good idea but my concern is if there’s further damage under the mounting plate. They should never have left those holes. Guess the other side is about as bad. Salt, aluminum and steel isn’t a good combination ! Hope you get it figured out. Have a Blessed Day

[@stephensalt6787]

Best thing to do Tim is get a few pieces of scrap steel of varying thickness and on a wet rainy day just take an hour to experiment with your welder settings, a little practice pays dividends in your ability to weld. Not a bad job.👍

[@gregritter377]

Hey Tim, there’s a product out now. That is very good for kind of fixing that issue you painted on with a brush it looks like mayonnaise water down and it turns everything black and seals it. It’s also rust preventative. I don’t know the name of the stuff I’ve only seen it on KZbin and Facebook.

[@vinsonhelton7141]

I think it's the most practical way to fix it all things considered. Good job

[@boilerhand1]

During off season, you could loosen the mounts, lock the diff in place, pull the axle, and do a thorough inspection and repair up inside there. Something to consider in case inner corrosion could possibly drop the fastener down inside causing greater damage. God bless.

[@6point5]

if I were tackling this, i'd beadblast the rust off, then jb weld (as if it were a liquid gasget) a 1/4" plate to the top - if there's no pressure, ya just need to seal it.

[@earlyriser8998]

Good job fixing a problem. Putting steel and aluminum together in a corrosive environment is a bad design. I like the JB weld option mentioned below by Laurie Harding. I might have gone that way too. I am also an beginner welder and am confused at situations like this too where the metal piecs don't fit the standard 'narrative'

[@russdouglas7234]

Try JB weld. Sounds flakey but I have used on my boat outdrive and it seems way more salt than that tractor. Works great and your have nothing to loose. Heat is nit good when you have aluminum and steel together.

[@joekelley1014]

Use a pneumatic needle scaler (needle gun) to clean the rusted surface. The 235 Epoxy to coat the metal. 235 is a 2 part Industrial Marine coating. Devoe, Ameron (PPG), International and Sherwin Williams all carry their own "recipe" for 235 epoxy.

[@nathanbrodeur]

Tim some axles have a vent so the rear end doesn’t over pressurize pushing the axle seals don’t pop out

[@dieselwelds8645]

Best and easiest without welding is tap the holes out to 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 NPT. Apply rtv or loctite to a brass plug and run into the holes

[@chaddthompson]

I know it's not something you want to hear but it will continue to corrode between the Steel and Aluminum unless you take the joint a part and clean both surfaces and make sure the steel is well painted. Look up glavanic corrosion, it is normally associated with stainless and aluminum but once you have corrosion between steel and aluminum the results are the same pretty well

[@jeffherndon]

You said something about there may be a dip in the aluminum housing under the steel plate. If there is then you just covered the hole above it. Can water get through that dip on the inside where the steel frame ends? I hope that makes sense. Maybe you could use a dentist mirror so see if there is a gap from the dip on the inside.

[@Chris-jh3tg]

The R1, aka, Ag tires will serve you well in the garden and field.

[@chadroberts1246]

I believe your method will take care of the problem, Tim. As usual, it's hard not to appreciate all the great ideas and advice that is totally unbiased. Great job.

[@garycox7508]

Out of the 3 options you were musing, I think the cut-off bolts was the best choice. When you mentioned putting silicone in there, I just cringed. I started imagining blobs of silicone floating through the hydraulic system and clogging things up in the most inconvenient places. Like using teflon tape on hydraulic fittings times a hundred kind of bad. I don't have enough insight to the actual issue you were addressing to know if that was a real concern, but in any case I'm glad you moved on to the welding options :D

[@stuarthull5706]

If that was breaking through you would have oil everywhere! If you want to inspect just undo the cab mounts both sides and lift up a touch to look underneath it?

[@547Rick]

Enjoyed the video! The repair is much better than doing nothing and was done well. As for you being a John Deer fan. I'm a GM fan and I'm sure I will get some grief about that. John Deer is a good brand of tractors and so are a few others. I watch you channel to see what you and Christy are up to. As well to learn about tractors and implements in general. Thanks for sharing and I'll keep watching.