Trad Climbing on Armatron - Pitch 3, The money pitch & my favorite pitch. Guess it has it all.

[@seansmith2112]

Four years after you uploaded this video I've finally ticked this climb off my list! Thanks for the inspiration.

[@JJ0n3z]

"I'm kind of just soloing right now"- immediately after passing points at which gear could have been placed.

[@lukeaurand5722]

It’s a scramble though. No harder than a flatiron and hardly anyone even ropes up on a flatiron

[@TheSubieFan]

@@lukeaurand5722 is that really just like a flatiron I solo'd the second in Boulder. This looks slightly sketchier.

[@allanchong4772]

couple of comments... a) get in a jesus piece right off the belay. hardest fall I ever caught was a 10ft slider right off the belay. the few cases of complete anchor failure also involve falls onto the anchor. b) I mainly use running it out as a strategy to carry less gear and simplify things, not to try to save time with fewer placements (try carrying 5 cams and half a set on nuts on your next 5.8 multipitch; BITD we carried 3 cams, couple of hexes/tricams, and 7-8 nuts). However, it slows me down often, because I climb in a far different deliberate mode when I'm runout more than 20ft above a piece. If you work it right, you can plug and chug small cams and TCUs on something like this in 20 sec flat. Then the strategy for speeding up becomes running it out and only placing gear FROM PLACES WHERE IT"S FAST TO PLACE (good stances). Use cams, they're faster to place than nuts, and use a rabbit runner with single biner to simplify the rope clip.

[@rickedeckard2006]

that is some crazy looking rock!

[@noalelkins1449]

One of my favorite pitches at Red Rock! One observation, at the end of the second pitch you clove into the fixed cordelette used for rappel. At the beginning of this video your partner appears to be belaying from the same point. The cord is just ran through the bolt hangers and has been exposed to the sun for who knows how long. Belaying off rappel stations is very risky. Best to go direct to the bolts.

[@gregturnbaugh1833]

Definitely on my list for the next time I head to red rock. Think I'll be placing a few more nuts along the way though.

[@pendrin2020]

I dig it man. That face is whatever you want it to be. That gridwork of cracks makes it a blank canvas for whatever your style is. I can't wait for my shoulder to heal!

[@Lax-Sharks]

I was sitting hear watching and just when you said, "I'm kind of just soloing right now" I was about to type..... you are really starting to run it out on a consistent basis now aren't you? Stay safe Seth, geologic time includes right now.

[@FirstPersonBeta]

I think the recent run outs stem from being far more comfortable with the climbing at these lower grades. That's not excusing it but rather I'm just enjoying the climbing so much I forget I have to plug something every now and again. Compare it against some of the 10 crack climbs I've done where I'm sewing up the cracks and running out of gear.

[@Lax-Sharks]

​@@FirstPersonBeta Totally understand a 5.6 for you is like a ladder, just worry when your doing it on new routes and at unfamiliar locations..... just remember rock can snap, crack and break.... just looking out for ya!

[@FirstPersonBeta]

All good my man, I value your input.

[@oldrestless]

Two minutes into climbing he has no protection what a weirdo

[@mtadams2009]

Your a very good climber for sure. I too was a decent climber then one day I fractured my skull and spent two weeks in the hospital. I think it was a 5.5 I never ran it out again. I really never understood what had happened but it did. Be safe please life can change in a blink of an eye. I enjoy your videos and you really climb well. Take care.

[@TheArmyKnifeNut]

Why extend the alpine draw connected to the rap ring? Habit? Other than reducing rope drag on wandering routes and reducing walking/movement on a piece of pro, there is no reason to extend the draw. It just makes the fall longer.

[@badnews9312]

A very interesting looking rock wall - almost looks like it has a coating of lava - and fabulous protection everywhere looks like you could climb any line you decided on............

[@thoughtthrottle.]

That was a pleasure to watch! What an aesthetic climb

[@eugenejkim]

You CAN place bomber nuts! 😂😂 Just pulling your leg man 😂 In all honesty tho, those nuts looked absolutely bomber. With what appears to be nice easy casual climbing, probably could protect it more than sufficiently with a double rack of small nuts, and a rack of medium nuts. Should've left the cams with the second 🤣

[@tj6111]

I love the did-I-leave-the-stove-on pause @ 15:15 😂👌🏼💪🏽

[@badnews9312]

at 7.30 I would have slotted a good nut being so run out, rather than a dubious horizontal micro cam - just my preference - I always feel safer with a well place nut beneath me...............i guess it is a personal sort of thing

[@craigrichards5472]

What an amazing climb and wish I was there.

[@Sigmav0]

Beautiful piece of rock

[@ScurvyDave]

At 9:15 'where the hell are the anchors'... Thought the same thing at the same spot! Absolutely loved the route - thought the approach was pretty heinous though haha.

[@ReadBoutGarvey]

FirstPersonRunouts Love it!

[@origin32]

Varnished... perfect! Awesome rock!

[@jeffereyweinberg7145]

When viewing your anchor -- at a glance -- I thought you didn't capture the inside of the middle section of cord with your crab. Glad to see you did capture that shelf(?) i hope you continue to capture all of the shelves at your anchors. Stay safe - climb safe. Enjoying your videos. Cheers

[@RedCoastLab]

I also really enjoy seeing you set up the anchors on this stuff

[@bryantrace1]

I don't know why that first set of bolts is there, I ran the second pitch to the ones you clipped and it was fine, pretty sure that was with a 60 too. Such a fun climb, it was like someone took a busted up highway and slapped it to a wall.

[@murdocschannel2761]

Those anchors are rappel anchors, probably not belay anchors.

[@matthewkelly99]

Awesome, that pitch looks sick. Nice run outs too, man, looked like 30-40' in some areas. Super rad.

[@Lax-Sharks]

Really wish you would include in the description or title where the climbs are? I recognize stuff from certain areas I have been to, but a lot of times I don't know where you are? Assuming this is Red Rocks

[@callmeburton]

Smaller than a black totem eh? Ballnuts might do well there :)

[@danielcherry5668]

That was a seriously cool climb! I loved the rack face and how there were different bands of stone in different directions! Where was it?

[@alemvisuals]

I think alex honnold and magnus midtbo both free soloing this route few weeks ago 😅

[@davidkoch5018]

an absolutely stunning pitch... looks like you could protect it with only one size of Nuts :D I know the feeling when ur just so much into a climb that you totally forget to put some gear in - same thing happened to me climbing indoors, when i noticed that up to the sixth bolt i didnt clip any draw :D:D

[@ticklefritz5406]

Hells yes! fine work indeed. Climbing makes humans more beautiful don't ya think?

[@cmpngmmth]

these videos are great

[@craigwynnphoto9559]

Beautiful climb and thanks for sharing. You should probably clip directly into the bolt hanger rather than a rap ring to protect a fall.

[@tathtath]

Maaaan!! Where do you life that you can climb so often outside! I am in the process of moving to some nice place where i can climb as often i can! :)

[@Rooster1020]

3:38 The rock looks like fricking plastic man amazing spot where is it?

[@lukeaurand5722]

Looks like a fun scramble!

[@ofrinokrian4645]

the mountain looks good for climb

[@raymondellefsen1542]

I was wondering, after seeing many of your climbing videos, what the benefit of using extended quickdraws on places where ypu could use just a regulard quickdraw?

[@pleasedontuse4008]

Usually people use alpine draws to reduce rope drag and to prevent the rope from pulling up on your cams

[@borysb52]

It looks like you are crawling on some medieval street.

[@wheelbegood]

that rock ❤️

[@DenzelLN936]

Why extend every piece? Cool route

[@TheArmyKnifeNut]

I was just trying to figure out why he extended the draw he put on the rap ring. 😅

[@joshkelly3743]

Rope drag maybe

[@freespiritwalter8844]

Red Rock NV?

[@officerwebb620]

the amount of pitches doesn't mean difficulty the amount of pitches is about safety and how far you're willing to fall and risk injury to a certain degree ... at least that's my opinion ...

[@RedHouseX]

Please place more gear!

[@lukeaurand5722]

On a 5.6 scramble? It’s no harder than a flatiron...

[@MrUncut310]

Whats the name of the place and the crag? Looks really fun. Btw I love the style of running out things. I mea, n if you are certain there will be more placements in case you need them and you feel comfortable climbing that far above protection i think it is absolutely legit to place just a few things here and there. And there is nothing better than being in the headspace of not thinking about falling because you feel so safe. Thanks for the vid. I really enjoyed watching.

[@isaacbernstein4908]

1.) When you get to the set of anchors, why not just throw a quickdraw on there and clip the rope in to protect yourself while fiddling with your quad? your last placement was more than 20 feet below you at that point, it just seems like a bold move to bypass a small thing to protect yourself. 2.) Your limiting knots on your quad are way to high, the purpose of limiting knots is to prevent or reduce the amount of shock loading if one piece of the anchor broke. 3.) Place more pro if you have it, you're climbing that terrain easily and confidently, why not take the time to protect the pitch well. a fall on that face would be very clean, however it just seems unnecessary. 4.) Save yourself some lockers and use non-lockers as your clip in points for the quad. This is acceptable practice in the world of rock climbing and widely used in the guiding world. Love your videos, just some things to consider and/or think about.

[@connordobsonclimb]

Because it's 5.6, shock loading is a pretty dumb myth, it's 5.6, agreed you should only take 2 lockers ever.

[@partykrew666]

basic question here. for trad climbing, is it fairly common to only use alpine draws?

[@trevorroberson8951]

Also less chance of the gear walking when you use slings. Another consideration is nylon slings absorb some of the energy when falling on trad gear.

[@mattgraham4340]

@@trevorroberson8951 Maybe, but hardly anybody uses nylon slings on their alpine draws anymore.

[@trevorroberson8951]

@@mattgraham4340 Not me, I carry both nylon and dynema. It's nice to have nylon around if you need to rig a klemheist and don't have any accessory cord for some reason . Dyneema and Spectra can melt ropes.

[@mattgraham4340]

@@trevorroberson8951 isn't that backwards? Dyneema has the lower melting point, and in most scenarios the friction is dispersed along the length of the rope

[@trevorroberson8951]

@@mattgraham4340 I was talking when used as a repel backup or for any sort of ascension hitch, dynema is slick and can slide on the rope, if it slips the heat generated melts climbing ropes.

[@Meditation_monk]

Anyone where is this place

[@FirstPersonBeta]

Red Rock National conservation land outside Las Vegas, NV

[@nathanstevens2272]

Great footage man. I really hate reading all these comments about wrong placements or unwanted opinions. I think the main purpose of your videos is to show an awesome hobby! Keep it going!

[@ResistCircuitResist]

Why my hands so sweaty right now?

[@Nicholas-cm6rx]

New to the channel but you seem to just run things out for no reason. You're carrying the gear, not sure if you get tunnel vision or what.

[@jongray6159]

I hate go-pro videos! The climb looks interesting though!

[@officerwebb620]

I noticed you don't clip in with your personel line, very dangerous are you self taught? Pay for some lessons man ... protect yourself ...

[@connordobsonclimb]

FYI using a clove hitch into an anchor is very standard and 100% safe

[@DansEarway]

Self taught is the American way.

[@josetejada320]

All mountains and hills are giant petrified tree stumps as you can clearly see the tree bark