Train With the Moon Team... effective Dead Hang Training with DAVE MASON

A few months ago we invited our international MoonClimbing team over to the UK, while they were here we pinned them down to get some of their top training hints and tips, to help improve your climbing, or as we say at Moon #trainHardclimbHarder.
The first video is by David Mason, and he talks through Deadhang training using the Moon Dead Hang rung
this is a breakdown of the exercise:
To find your maximum weight, you need to
deadhang a 20mm edge with enough
weight added to cause you
to fail at exactly 12 seconds.
This is your training max weight.
It should only be treated as a
baseline though, if it feels too easy
you should increase the weight
Finding your max weight will constitute
a session in itself and shouldn't
be incorporated in this workout.
Warm up routine -
5-8 secs with 50% max weight added
1-3 mins rest
5-8 secs with 75% max weight added
1-3 mins rest
5-8 secs with 95% max weight added
then 3-4 mins rest
5 sets of 10 second hangs
at your predetermined
maximum weight.
rest 2-4 mins between sets.
Adjust weight to your level
so you complete all 5 sets.
Summary;
Warm up - 3 sets of hangs at 50%, 75% and
95% of max added weight with 1-3mins
between sets.
Rest 3-4 mins.
Session - 5 sets of 10 second hangs with
max added weight with 2-4 mins
between sets.
Adjust weight up or down to complete 10secs
each set.
Maintain strict form with the fingers.

[@fernasclimb]

nice video! keep up the work, guys! thanks

[@daytonhenriksen8121]

how many days a week would you do this workout and how would you fit it in with other training?

[@miguelpt1]

thank you for the video! what's the name of the app?

[@b0tb0t83]

Miguel Barca Stopwatch :)

[@winstonsmith7377]

How much to increase weight by to ensure progressive overload? perhaps 2.5kg every 3 to 4 weeks until moving to smaller edge becomes more sensible?

[@climbscience4813]

You adjust the weight to your progress, this is how you ensure that you get the same stimulus as before. For long-term progression you can follow Eva Lopez' stuff, the workout in the video is basically a derivative of what she suggested originally. Short version is: increase number of sets on a weekly basis using a pattern of 3,4,5,5 (2 training sessions per week), using weight to adjust the difficulty. Then, after a week of training break, restart with smaller edge and adjust the difficulty by edge size, not by weight. Again move up using 3,4,5,5 and have a week training break. I would suggest putting in some repeater workout after 1-2 cycles of that, since you will plateau otherwise. ;-)