Transmission & Engine Mount Replacement

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
Learn how to change your transmission mount or your engine mounts on a 3rd GEN Toyota 4Runner. This repair would be similar on a Toyota Tacoma. For this 17 year old 4Runner, the mounts were still in great shape so do your best to inspect the mounts before buying new ones.
*TORQUE SPECS*
*Transmission Mount to Crossmember Bolts: 13lb/lbf
*Transmission Mount to Transmission Bolts: 48 ft/lbf
*Crossmember #3 Bolts: 53 ft/lbf
*Engine Mount Bolts: 28 ft/lbf
*Wheel Lug Nuts: 85 ft/lbf
*PARTS*
*(2) Toyota Engine Isolators (aka Motor Mounts) #12361 - 62160
www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Fron...
(1) Transmission Isolator (aka Transmission Mount) #12371 - 62120
www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Toyo...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (use to check trans mount and to pry off exhaust grommet)
amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*6 Ton Jack Stands - (strong jacks to support vehicle while you're working underneath it)
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (nice to speed up removing fasteners like the skid pan bolts)
amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Battery
amzn.to/3FJZO1j
*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
amzn.to/2HEFTpu
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2OehCao
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
amzn.to/37iQjVt

*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (strong gun for removing lug nuts and other big fasteners)
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun - (nice compact gun for smaller applications)
amzn.to/2uqWnZy
*Dewalt Batteries
amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set - (nice set for all different lug nut sizes)
amzn.to/3w8Uwtc
*3/8" Drive Regular Impact Extension Set
amzn.to/3NCVmEj
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*Harbor Freight 2000 lb Transmission Jack
- (works really well and is affordable)
www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...
*Rubber pad for protecting oil pan - (used section of this with trans jack)
amzn.to/2GuK59E
*1/2” Drive Breaker Bar - 12” Long - (used for holding cross member bolts firm)
amzn.to/2OCN5U7
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/330QjGh
*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/2ZWjY6C
*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches - (used for loosening one side of the trans mount from the transmission and also used for the motor mount bolts) amzn.to/2oOhndL
*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque most fasteners in this video)
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque wheel lug nuts)
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*Plastic Fastener Removal Tool - (nice tool to remove plastic clips like the ones in the wheel well)
amzn.to/2Y7qrYk
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (used for the motor mounts)
amzn.to/31x8BOo
*Tekton Extra Long Flex-Head Ratcheting Box End Wrench Set - (used for the motor mounts)

amzn.to/37xSDaV
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (3/8 ratchet was used for the 17mm center nut for the motor mounts. these ratchets are super functional and worth their weight in gold)
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@westonhood3705]

You are literally a savior for so many people. Your videos are so important for so many people. You are becoming a legend!! 😂

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice comment Weston. I appreciate it.

[@ChrisTejada-nl7mh]

Dude you always have the videos that are so hard to find! Keep up the work!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We will keep pumping out the content, Chris.

[@t3morga]

This man has saved me so much time and money....had my runner since 2003.....still rolling

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for commenting and letting us know.

[@arechj]

Your videos rule! the Force is definitely strong with you! Thanks as usual! I've rebuilt my whole truck through your videos!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We we were mentored by Yoda, I mean Yota,, so that's why the force is strong with us. Great to hear our videos have helped you out so much. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@BloodSeeker117]

I just wanna drop a comment and say thanks again! I needed some info on what exactly I needed to buy and almost bought that metal piece that goes between the rubber mount and engine. Thanks for all the hard work you do with these videos!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome and glad our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@saadalsaedy2848]

thank you and the cameraman.... u are really great Jop what you don

[@washingtontran8512]

Great video, very clear instruction and great stabilize, camera angles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for compliment. We appreciate it!

[@mtyota]

This guy makes it looks simple! Tim is the man 👌

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the kind words.. It really isn't a hard job provided you have the right tools. Happy Wrenching!

[@thegarager]

Once again, a spot on video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome.

[@raymaharaj3555]

Excellent detailed account given in this video . Thanks for the effort - very helpful . Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like the video Ray and you're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@Nate_tureboy]

Timmy We were chatting on the Tundra brake video comment section. I was at Lowe's and spotted a Kobalt 3/8" flex head ratchet and it looked promising. I was able to remove both mounts with relative ease! However, opposite of your instructions, the ratchet handle for me was able to rotate by cranking it upward. I was able to do the ratcheting with the handle passing between the exhaust manifolds and the engine bay inner fender! Once they were loose I switched back to the 1/4" drive ratchet from below as you were successful. On the passenger side the ratchet handle rubs the manifold shield pretty snug but press on. The drivers side becomes much easier by disconnecting the alternator wires/abs wire/various vac hoses or at least disconnect their brackets. I've went ahead and destroyed my new mounts by cutting off the threaded portion and put a 1/2" bolt/washer/nut through the entire thing. I came across a blog mentioning this mod allows the engine to settle/press on the mounts but it will not be able to "pull" on them. Allowing for compression and better transfer of engine rotational force! We shall see : ) Thanks for your help and the encouragement

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job getting it done. Interesting modification to the mounts. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@loaiessa75]

Great video you cover every small details good job mate

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's our style. We try to be as detailed and comprehensive as possible so we give the viewer the best chance at success with the job. This makes our videos longer than most KZbin automotive videos but we figure people will watch what they need to see and skip over areas they don't need instruction on. We'd rather give people more information than not enough. Glad you like the video and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@haroldshinski7922]

Great job , and very informative , 2003 Tundra owner .

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like our video Harold. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@J0Gu7]

You do awesome demos dude. Checked mine on my 2001, and they are still good. Thought I was going to have to take a drive over to Camelback Toyota but nah.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it.

[@markreynolds3850]

Thanks for your useful information, really helps.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Mark.

[@fortis619]

Great video Tim , I learned my lesson today, Always buy oem or you will do it twice 🤣I bought an aftermarket which looked identical once I removed the old one the new wouldn’t align!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, OEM is the safe way to go. I have used aftermarket parts, mainly aftermarket suspension products and bushings but I stick with OEM for most other things.

[@user-mp8gq9dj4p]

Great video, explained very well with great camera work. Own a 2004 Tacoma 4x4 bought it new and still going strong! I'm an old dude but still do most of the work myself. So, thanks for the info.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. I think us old dudes turn more wrenches than the young dudes these days. Not many younger guys or gals are getting into auto mechanics. You're very welcome.

[@efil4kizum]

how 'old of dude' are you? i have a '97 Tacoma bot new as well 27 years ago and continue to shake my weary head at the new tacoma out there lol

[@thomaskoemel]

Thank you for this video! This is so helpful

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Thomas. Glad you found our video helpful.

[@paulbreaux909]

Very nice video. I've got a Tundra, but this is very helpful. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Paul. Glad you found the video helpful.

[@paulbreaux909]

@@TimmyTheToolman Do you have any suggestions as to what brand. I'm having a real difficult time finding motor mounts. All I see are DEA, Anchor, and Beck Arnley, non of which seem to have good things said about them. Maybe a call to the local Toyota dealer is in order.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@paulbreaux909 Try using Partsouq.com to look up the part numbers and then you can search the part numbers for the lowest price. I suggest only using Toyota OEM mounts.

[@chriswall6279]

thank you u make it look so easy, really enjoy your video thanks Christine

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's actually fairly straight forward but the right tools makes it much easier. Flex head ratchets and wrenches are a revelation. Cordless impact guns are awesome. We're glad you like the video Christine. Happy Wrenching!

[@SDsailor7]

I saw a video where they did not remove the middle center bracket to remove the transmission mount. The vehicle was a 2004 Tacoma prerunner they just lifted the transmission high enough to be able to clear the center big bolt/nut did you remove the center bracket in order to remove the motor mounts?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@SDsailor7 Hey Rob, I think it can be done this way. The reason why we did it our way is I think I remember the factory service manual suggesting to remove the cross member. Also, I was concerned of smashing the transmission into the body by lifting it up too high. There are electrical plugs near the top of the transmission and other things like the breather so I didn't want to crack or break anything by lifting too high.

[@cabdirabbicabdilahi3464]

Thank you very much for your time and knowledge

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome.

[@mattjames8320]

Thanks man this was very helpful

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome James.

[@Fuckzionists]

Good job , keep up the good work Thanks for the video brother

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to comment! We appreciate it.

[@adamburgess3243]

Dang those are some of the most difficult bolts to get to (engine mounts)!! 6 hours later😂 i will share some info that applies to lifted vehicles . If your truck/4runner is lifted or sitting on 33 inch or bigger tires you will run into some problems- i had to special order some taller jack stands as my frame sits at about 24 inches off the ground . Also A high lift jack with wheel lift mate to get the truck into the air. Unless you have some special jack that goes above 24 inches (most dont) . Also unless u have a special jack you will need to implement the engine hoist as the regular heavy duty jack didnt lift the engine high enough to get new mounts in. Thanks Timmy for the video , youre the man!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sounds like you had quite the experience with this, but the good thing is you got it done. You're very welcome and good job!

[@joseperez-zl5sf]

Thanks Timmy awesome job

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Jose. Thanks!

[@bustedkeel]

Very helpful! Would it make sense to start supporting at the oil pan before loosening the front mount attachments to the frame? It seems like I'd be asking for things to slip out of place if the jack isn't holding the engine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The engine mounts can't slip just by removing the bolts. There's tabs that the mounts settle against. The bolts don't hold up the engine. They just keep the mount in place on their mounting brackets.

[@francisjaramillo337]

Great information. Hopefully I won't have to do this, but at least now I can!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Francis. Yeah, hopefully you won't.

[@mrs1557]

The nuts that hold the cross member to the frame may be pinch to lock (not sure if this is the correct term) which, may explain why they were so hard to get off. A pinch to lock nut is slightly deformed (a little oblong in the center) and lock better than nylon lock nuts. This is especially true for bigger nuts and nuts that are frequently removed and reused. I use them whenever I can and love them even though they take considerably more effort to install and remove. When you get done you know the nuts will not back out. Especially useful for the sway bar brackets and end links.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We agree, some type of nut that locks not the bolt gives more piece of mind but you should always inspect your vehicle especially before & after trips on the trails as things can get jolted around & attempt to loosen up.

[@lukeneave]

Always great detail keep up the videos the 4Runners are super similar to 90 series here in oz 👍🏼

[@TimmyTheToolman]

luke neave good to know. It would be nice to know all the vehicles overseas that these repairs could benefit.

[@fknows1]

@@TimmyTheToolman pretty much the same as the 2004-onwards toyota V6 Hilux's over here in Australia

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@fknows1 Most of our audience comes from the US and then it's Canada and Australia comes in 3rd. The internet is pretty amazing. I've exchanged messages with people from all over the world because of this channel. Pretty cool.

[@robertthibault9080]

23333rd

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@robertthibault9080 You lost me on your comment Robert. What does 23rd mean?

[@racerxnk]

Great video, 2004 Tacoma owner here:)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

racerxnk Glad you like it.

[@williamtsol636]

My motor mounts are what I was going to work on next ! Almost 300 on my Tacoma ! Video came in perfect timing ! Thanks ! Great video ! Very Helpful !!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

William Goble Hey William, you're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@twack19]

Timmah! Love your videos. I've used them as a reference to do lots of work on my 1st gen Tacoma. Like you, I replaced my transmission mount a while back hoping that it would alleviate some of the drive line clunk & transmission movement I was experiencing. Unfortunately, It didn't seem to help that much. I just think axel wrap & drive line movement is something that Tacoma & 4runners owners have to deal with. Seems to be endemic with the 2 piece drive shaft design.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

twack19 Watch our Slip Yoke Binding Fix video. It's most likely your slip yoke binding. My clunk improved after lubricating the slip yoke better but the problem is still there. Some people outright fix the problem by getting it properly lubricated so it's worth a shot for you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

twack19 I was thinking there was a chance you could raise the transmission high enough to get the mount out but since I had experience removing the cross member when we replaced Sean's transmission, I knew it was a pretty easy thing to get out of the way. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share this info.

[@SDsailor7]

What is axle wrap? Anyone know? Thank you.

[@erikthompson3608]

You the man Timmy!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Erik!

[@mablizza]

i need to do this! thanks so much

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@Prodagyxx]

Timm your video's are super helpful for maintaining my 3rd gen thanks. The mount is different on the RWD Limited and is not directly below the cross member, this became an issue when i lowered the transmission from my jack and the bolts had shifted 1/2 an inch and i'm unsure on how to get it back where i should and no one makes as helpful videos as you if you have any advice i'm open to it. I appreciate what you do!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sounds like you need to use some persuasion with a pry bar. If the mount is bolted up properly to the transmission and the cross member is where it should be too, it's just a matter of flexing the mount so the mount holes lines up properly with the cross member holes. I hope that makes sense.

[@Prodagyxx]

It does thanks for the reply the original mount is back installed with new hardware since the rubber was in decent shape. I just had to learn a classic lesson of avoiding aftermarket parts.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Prodagyxx Ah, the aftermarket part was the issue. Yep, OEM for the most part is the way to go.

[@edardon16]

than you sir you help me a lot with this video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Ed. Glad our video helped you out.

[@rickn6x621]

Another excellent video! Just wondering how many miles was on the Toyota Tacoma when you replaced the motor and transmission mount? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for watching Rick. I had approximately 162,*** miles on my 4Runner when I replaced the transmission mount & engine mounts.

[@julioakapyrocovarrubias3115]

Bro I lost my shit when he said more cushion for the pushin 🤣🤣🤣

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you appreciate the humor Julio.

[@akletke1]

Timmy, did this fix your rear end thunk? I've got the thunk on hard stops and at my next oil change will lube the slip yoke up and see where that gets me. Thanks for the vids. Keep them coming!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Andrew, no it didn't get rid of it but it improved a little. I think mine is mostly due to the slip yoke binding on the rear driveshaft. Lubricating the yoke better by pulling the yoke off the main driveshaft has helped the most but I think the splines have received excessive wear due to being insufficiently lubricated for most of it's life. The zerk fitting does a horrible job of greasing the splines. All the grease ends up on the bottom of the yoke and hardly any grease gets onto the splines where it's needed. It's my belief that the splines have some type of special coating to allow them to slide easier because I've seen different shades of color on the splines showing something wore off. So, I guess I'll live with the clunk for now. Maybe I'll buy an aftermarket driveshaft at some point from a company like Tom Woods. The double card joint is pretty much not serviceable if a ujoint goes bad so many decide to go aftermarket when that happens.

[@abaanamaan]

Man absolutely love you video U deserve to bloody get million like on each video could U do body mount video aswell cheers hazrat

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Buddy. We have a video for installing a body lift that would probably work for your needs. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGrXdWWfh9F5bbs We also show replacing rear body mounts on my 98 4runner in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4OcZKNqabKbhbc Start watching at play time 11 minutes, 20 seconds. Happy Wrenching!

[@jeffcannon2875]

Great info. Did it fix your driveline clunk? I have a violent clunk pressing and letting off the gas in 4hi.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Jeff Cannon Hey Jeff, no it didn't get rid of it but it improved a little. I think mine is mostly due to the slip yoke binding on the rear driveshaft. Lubricating the yoke better by pulling the yoke off the main driveshaft has helped the most but I think the splines have received excessive wear due to being insufficiently lubricated for most of it's life. The zerk fitting does a horrible job of greasing the splines. All the grease ends up on the bottom of the yoke and hardly any grease gets onto the splines where it's needed. It's my belief that the splines have some type of special coating to allow them to slide easier because I've seen different shades of color on the splines showing something wore off. So, I guess I'll live with the clunk for now. Maybe I'll buy an aftermarket driveshaft at some point from a company like Tom Woods. The double card joint is pretty much not serviceable if a ujoint goes bad so many decide to go aftermarket when that happens.

[@theone20122]

Got it. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@fknows1]

Hi Tim great video. did the new mounts make any difference and solve your excess movement (flex) problem with engine and transmission

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like the video. No, it didn't make a difference. The problem I have is with the rear driveshaft slip yoke binding on the main shaft. I think years of being improperly lubricated caused excessive wear to the splines and I'm just going to have to replace it one day because no amount of greasing helps anymore.

[@MattSeals]

I like this video - its so usefull and helpfull.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like it Matt. Happy Wrenching!

[@chrisjohnson8571]

How much easier are the motor mounts if say the front diff was already removed for other reasons? I have to pull it anyway, might as well do it now if it will make the motor mount job easier. Thanks, super helpful videos man.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Actually, releasing the driver side motor mount and jacking up the engine makes getting the front differential out much easier. Check out our video for the front differential replacement and read the comment we pinned that describes the steps to get the differential out much easier. So, the steps I'd do are: 1) Jack up under oil pan with light pressure. 2) Remove bolts that hold the driver side motor mount to the frame 3) Jack up motor a couple inches and place some spacer block or wedge between the frame and mount to maintain the height you just gained and get the jack out of your way. 4) Remove the rubber vacuum tubes and breather hoses from the metal vacuum and breather lines. Then release the metal lines from the top of the differential so you can manipulate them out of the way of the power steering lines as you remove the differential 5) Disconnect the electrical connection to the front diff actuator 6) Disconnect the front and rear diff mounts and get the differential out. 7) Next jack up the motor up a bit again and get the wedge out of your way. 8) Remove the driver side motor mount from the engine, and get the new one in. 9) Remove and replace the passenger side motor mount 10) Lower the engine down and get the passenger side motor mount attached to the passenger side frame 11) Jack the motor back up and get the wedge put back between the driver side frame and engine mount. 12) Get your front differential back in and all bolted up 13) Finally jack up engine, remove wedge or block and get the driver side motor mount bolted to the frame and you're all done. How's that for a response?

[@collinclark5573]

Thanks for the video Timmy. Your page has saved the day more than once. The problem I’m having with my motor mounts is the 14mm holes don’t line up after taking the jack out. I’ve got the 17mm bolt in and the nut on, but it looks as if I need to pull my motor forward a good inch or so. Any tips for anyone else like me having problems lining the mount with the frame?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Collin, good to hear our videos are helping you out. In regards to the motor mount not lining up, sometimes the drivetrain shifts a bit on you. You'll have to manipulate the motor to get it to line up and you can usually find a purchase with a large pry bar to force it over in the direction you need it to go. Did you purchase OEM motor mounts?

[@collinclark5573]

I will try to shimmy it forward. I did not buy OEM.. I bought the beck n arnleys off rock auto

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@collinclark5573 Did you do a close examination of the mount you bought compared to the OEM one you removed. I've seen problems with aftermarket mounts and that's maybe the issue you're experiencing.

[@dkhuong]

Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@mayronhernandez4832]

Hello timmy! One question what would happen if I did not remove the 4 bolts from the transmission mount the ones attached to the cross member and started to lift the engine in order to replace the 2 engine mounts????

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You would just put a little strain on them. The mounts are meant to give quite a bit with the movement of the drivetrain so I doubt you did any damage.

[@kovaks1483]

Hi Timmy, would you happen to know the part number for a transmission kickdown cable on a 98 4cyl runner??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Maynor, I don't know the part number. If you can't figure out the part number via an internet search, you may just have to resort to going to your local Toyota dealer parts department to order it. But, before you do that, call Amanda at Camelback Toyota. parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329 Amanda handles the online sales for them and there's a chance she could get it for you. Their prices are very competitive with other online parts sellers.

[@robertshirlingjr.6988]

Timmy on a 96 4runner 2wd does the pins have to go into the motor side. We bought 2 mounts from the local napa & they wouldn't line up with the holes in the mounts. We cut one of them to make it work. Motor jumps more now then it did before. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Aftermarket mounts can be problematic as you've found out. You might just have to buy OEM mounts to get it right.

[@cheesewhiz32]

Good video! I think you can cut down on the amount of times you repeat yourself though or exit them out. We can rewind if we miss something.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. I'll take note of your constructive criticism. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@DonBMW]

@@TimmyTheToolman No way Timmy! You do your thang brother. I'm here to watch and learn, watch and learn. When I think I got it, I watch again.

[@aidiladartse]

Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Lidia. We appreciate the Super Thanks!

[@marksimcoe4105]

Do you think by using a boxed end crows foot on a torque wrench that you could torque the nuts and bolts to spec or would that probably not work? Thank you very much for the videos. I can't tell you how much they help a DIY'er do all the things that you do. And if you have a 2000 4Runner with 200,000 miles like I do you'll likely be doing almost all of the things you cover at some point. Again thank you very much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mark, it may work with a crows foot for the two bolts and nuts that hold the engine mounts to the frame. For that center nut that holds the mount to the engine, I don't think it's possible. Glad you like our videos. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@thomas7770]

I just did this on my 00 Tacoma 2.7, 2wd. My transmission mount needed replacement. I didn’t need to remove the cross member. But the front two motor mounts didn’t need to be replaced, be sure to check for movement of the engine before you replace the engine mounts. I used the thin flex head double ended rachet from harbor freight, worked great. When working on the front two motor mounts, remove the air intake hose to give the engine more room to move vertically. Finally, take your driveshaft to a driveline shop when finished to balance it. This will keep the trans mount from wearing out again and reduce vibrations in your driveline. Very good rundown on replacing these mounts, thank you!

[@lukeneave]

Tom how you replace trans mount without removing crossmember

[@mattyb487]

Hi Timmy, is there a break in period for engine mounts? I have recently replaced my engine mounts and there is now terrible vibration when the engine is at idle, throughout the pickup. However, when i am driving it seems as if its smoother than before?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's interesting Matt. I don't think there's a break-in period. The rubber is already pretty pliable with these rubber mounts, at least with the OEM Toyota ones I purchased for this job. Did you buy OEM mounts? Now, for sure if you switched to something like polyurethane mounts, they can cause a ton of vibration because they don't give as much and will transfer engine vibrations to the frame. I know this because my 85 Toyota 4runner has Trail Gear poly mounts. They are strong and won't break under a lot of torque when 4wheeling but they suck when it comes to dampening the engine vibrations. Common sense would say the mounts are causing the new vibration because the problem started right after the swap, but I don't think OEM rubber mounts should do this. If you used aftermarket mounts, then I think that's the culprit. I would go back to using OEM mounts.

[@k129h8]

hey man, for engine mounts, is it the same remove and install for the 5 lug tacomas with the 3.4?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it would be the same. 1st Gen Tacomas are basically the same as 3rd Gen 4runners when it comes to the drive train.

[@lukeneave]

Cheers for linking those tools, how many kms or miles did it have on it at the time?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The mileage was around 150-160k but if you wheel your rig you should consider replacing your lower ball joints every 50-60k miles or maybe sooner. We now link all the tools we use on jobs so people can get the same tools or buy something similar if they need them.

[@grayman5271]

Hey Timmy, I saw in the comments that this didn't fix the clunk. So would you still recommend using the Ford goo?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Barak Patterson Hey Barak, yes I would recommend the Ford grease because it has helped lessen my clunk and for some people it has eliminated it altogether. I think there's a point where the wear to the splines is so excessive that the grease is only going to lessen the clunk but not get rid of it.

[@solarisdreamz]

Hi Timmy, did that fix your rear end clunk and wobble in the AT shifter? Mine does the same thing on a 3rd gen '02 I just picked up...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it didn't fix the rear end clunk. The only thing I've found that lessens the clunk is removing the slip yoke and greasing it really good. At first I would be clunk-free for almost 10,000 miles but now it only lasts a few hundred. I think my driveshaft slip yoke was under-lubricated for most of it's life and it just needs to be replaced now. There's a decent amount of play in the splines and I think that increases the ability for it to bind. I might pick one up a local shop that makes custom driveshafts. I have a couple videos for the slip yoke binding fix so check them out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXy7ZoibepeHrtU kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKrPpaubZ9ODe8k It has fixed other people's clunks so it's worth a try. The brand new engine and trans mounts still allow for a fair amount of movement in the drivetrain so you'll still see your shifter moving even after installing new mounts.

[@ciscokid0307]

@@TimmyTheToolman I had a rear end clunk and noticed it at every stop light and sometimes in reverse. I noticed that it was the u bolts that hold the rear axle and the rear leafs. they were loose and tightened them to spec and fixed the problem. this happened on my 98 tacoma. checking and torquing your u bolts its something worth checking. good luck and hope that fixes your issue.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Francisco Valle this is definitely worth checking on vehicles with leaf springs. 4runners don’t have leaf springs but my 1st gen does and I noticed they were loose when I bought it. Tightened it up and things are happy again.

[@robstratton5320]

What ever ended up fixing that rear end clunk on acceleration that you mentioned in the beginning? I’m having the same issue

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Never fixed it. It's clear to me it's a problem with the rear driveshaft slip yoke binding while coming to a stop and then unbinding. Greasing the slip yoke would work for a while but then the clunk would come back. I think the only way to fix it is to replace the driveshaft.

[@gulenator]

What if my whole engine, transmission, and exhaust moves when I push up on my transmission. It looks like the body mounts where the rubber bushing is not setting up against the metal there’s like a gap in betweeen, I don’t think it’s right and I’d like your help if I could send a video or something and get your advice

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They're suppose to move together because they're bolted together. If the rubber is pulling away from the metal, replace the mount.

[@BillMartinRealtor]

Is this about the same on the 2004 1st gen GX470? I'm thinking I might have a bad front diff.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know Bill. I have no experience with the GX470. Are you saying your differential is bad or a mount for the differential is bad. You commented on our video about replacing the transmission mount and engine mounts.

[@dmapp899]

Thanks for sharing another informative video Tim. I have a question, in replacing transmission insulator (mount), is it ok to use a regular jack? I plan to replace mine but i don't have a transmission jack. Also, where did you get the rubber pad that you used?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Dan Mappala If you use a regular jack, you need to disperse the weight with something so you're not lifting with a small concentrated platform like a regular jack has. I would put a thick piece of wood like a 2x6 or a thick piece of plywood to disperse the weight of the transmission over a wider patch. This way you won't dent your transmission pan. You could also jack up on another area of the transmission or transfer case instead of the pan and then you won't have to worry about denting the pan.

[@dmapp899]

Thanks Tim. Follow up question, where did you get the rubber pad that you used?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Amazon.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Dan Mappala Hey Dan, I bought it on Amazon. I'd hook you up with a link but it's a little bit of a pain in the butt doing this on my cell phone. I'm struck on a fire in Northern California near the border of Oregon right now. When I get home and back to a regular computer, I'll provide the link in the video description. If you don't see it within a couple weeks, please send me a reminder comment.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Dan, I provided a link to the rubber pad I used and some other tools I believed to be very helpful with this job in the video description. I actually bought 2 pads but just used one that I cut down to the size of the plastic 2x4 I was using.

[@yotagang3705]

Tim thanks for the vid it helped out a lot. I have a 97 yota taco reg cab 4x4 auto 3rz engine, 4 speed tranny (A3040F) when I was changing the transmount I noticed previous owner put the bottom white part more towards the rear and I remember in your video you say to face it to the engine, well I did that and after snugging up the bolts and getting ready to put the crossmember I saw it was impossible to put the crossmember it wouldnt line up. So I reversed it with the white point pointing towards the rear like the previous owner had it and it fit like a glove…idk why mines was like that, just thought I let anyone know. Also for the reg cab on mine it was hard to find the part number as its discontinued but it overceeds another part number that even the toyota guys behind the counter cant see 12371-35090 just wanted to say thank you Tim your videos are appreciated and honestly ther was a time I wouldnt even change my own oil but thanks to you I feel like a toyota tech lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome and thanks for sharing your experience with the trans mount. Great to hear our videos are inspiriting you to turn wrenches on your Tacoma. Happy Wrenching!

[@chicharito417]

Did it fix your clunking sound? That's my problem too. Debating on whether I should change mine out. I'm glad I got a Tundra because the Tacoma is tight

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It did not fix the issue. I believe my clunk is coming from the driveshaft slip yoke binding. One day I'm just going to replace the damn thing.

[@AnthonyStromDesign]

Hi Tim, how do you know if you need a new transmission isolator?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If the rubber is pulling away from the metal it's adhered to. Or, you see a major tear in the rubber allowing for abnormal movement.

[@INTERNA9]

Thanx

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@orlandomuniz876]

Great video, guess its safe to say i need to replace mine on my tacoma since its getting close to 400k

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They might still be ok. Inspect them.

[@oneguyonekit]

transmission mount same part # for manual and auto? having trouble finding that number on toyota's part page for my 1998 manual transmission.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if they are the same part number. You might have to visit your local dealer.

[@efil4kizum]

those motor mounts now have an MSRP of 90$ each in Nov-2o23... transmission mount for the MT is not available 8^( .... what would you suggest for the trans mount? are there aftermarket available that are of near-like quality

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if there are aftermarket trans mounts that are of good quality, but, it that's all you can get, that's all you can get. I'm sure they'll work fine but might not last as long.

[@echo8287]

Hey Tim, I was looking at my mount on a 1999 prerunner and the nut on top of the center rubber bushing wasn't even close to the rubber. I can't find any torque on that nut or if its supposed to be snug or totally loose. Do you know if its supposed to be torqued ,snug or loose>Thanks Dave

[@TimmyTheToolman]

echo8287 are you talking about the trans mount or the engine mount when you say bushing?

[@echo8287]

The top bolt on the transmission mount. I just got the new Toyota mount(12371-62130) and there is less than 1/8" between the top bolt with the big metal washer and the rubber bushing. On my truck the thing must have loosened up because there is 3/4" between the washer and the bolt. I was just wondering if it's supposed to be tight, snug or to leave the less than 1/8" play in the new mount. Mine might have had No damping effect on tranny movement, Thanks Dave @@TimmyTheToolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

echo8287 it should be tight

[@marisolgutierrez2506]

Is it normal for the car to vibrate/shake after changing those mounts? It makes less noise but it just shakes a lot now. Does it have to "settle" over time?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it's not normal. Something isn't right.

[@drivewayhero]

Hey man thanks for the video! I am hoping your expertise and experience can help. I have a 1995 2.7 4x4 with the auto trans that I want to do the same job on. I had no prob sourcing the engine mounts but for the love of everything holy I cannot find the correct transmission mount. Part number oem is 12371-35090 but it has been discontinued and no supersession! Looked EVERYWHERE and nothing. I tried putting in a 12371-0c030 but compared to oem side by side it is just a bit more taller (maybe 1/8” taller) however it bolts on.. and the holes line up. Only problem is the crossmember wont go back in because that mount is just a tad taller and I dont want to jack tranny up too much, since it might mess with its alignment?! Any help is appreciated..

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Have you tried going with an aftermarket trans mount? I know it's not ideal but I bet you could try getting one from an auto parts store.

[@drivewayhero]

@@TimmyTheToolman Nothing available either. Whatever they have it looks nothing like it and will not fit. Haha I think the mounts for the 1995 and 1996 4x4 auto trans 2.7 fell through the cracks or into a parts blackhole! If you hear of anyone with the same issue or possibly having one laying around it would be so awesome!! I am sure I am not the only one!

[@8953147]

Nice Gear-wrench tools for the job. Will have to get me some. Where did you get those rubber blocks Tim?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

jake ounce Hey Jake, yeah, I love those gear wrench and other ratcheting head wrenches. Those flex head ratchets with the 120 points of engagement are awesome and we'll worth the expense. I got the rubber pads on Amazon. I'm stuck at a fire way up in Northern California near the Oregon border and it's harder for me to look up my previous purchases and post links to them. When I get home, I'll put a link to all the helpful tools I used for this job in the video description.

[@8953147]

Be careful fighting that fire- we need you back safe brother Tim!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

jake ounce Thanks Jake. I enjoy going out on these wildland fires but it can be hard work and a little dangerous at times. It can also be very boring because we don't always have a good assignment and we're just sitting around. You basically have to like camping, be able to stomach the same crappy food day after day, like being dirty and being uncomfortable a lot. If you're ok with all that, it's a great time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jake, I'm back in town. I provided a link to the rubber pad I used in the video description.

[@judyandjohn1815]

After 4 yrs, have you solved the clunk issue? I have a 2004 tacoma v6 4wd and when I some to a stop, I feel a clunk behind me like it is from the rear. I've researched and some people said it is axle wrap, but when I come to a stop, I shift to neutral and it doesn't clunk. Some people said it is the transmission mount or the drive shaft center support. I'm out of town and haven't looked at my mount or support yet. Another guy said he changed all his vent lines and it went away. He assumed it was some vent line to the transmission. Do you think the drive shaft support or the vent lines could be causing the clunk?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I do not think the vent line on the transmission could cause this. That just lets out pressure out as the trans heats up. I do think severely worn mounts could cause it but it didn't fix my issue. I think it's the slip yoke binding. When you are coming to a stop, the suspension compresses and the slip yoke slides into the main propeller shaft. If the slip yoke and propeller shaft are sliding well with each other, the yoke will release smoothly as you coast to a stop. If the yoke is not sliding well with the propeller shaft, it sort of binds. When the forward force from the braking eases up, the slip yoke doesn't release gently but rather finally releases in one big clunk of a movement. The zerk fitting for the slip yoke does not effectively lubricate the splines. It's a crappy design. Most of the grease just sits in the pocket at the end of the shaft. You really have to over-grease the slip yoke to get grease to push up into splines. My 2000 4runner still has the problem. I got rid of it for short periods of time by manually greasing the splines. Give it a try and let me me know if it helped you. I have two videos for it. What I'm planning on doing is just replacing the driveshaft with one from Tom Woods when the problem gets too annoying to ignore. So far, I've been fine living with the rear end clunk. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXy7ZoibepeHrtU kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKrPpaubZ9ODe8k

[@veneseferguson4529]

Whats the name of the two bushings next to the cam adjuster i need to get those two bushings (look in the video 38:11) thank you and await your favorable response.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Those are the Differential Support Arm Bushings. Toyota doesn't sell them separately. They make you buy the whole arm. But, the Durobumps company makes replacement bushings for that application. We show how to replace them in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHOq6h6e9uGjZI

[@jonathangray9110]

Tim do you know if this mount, or any 3rd Gen mount, will work on a 2nd Gen (1995) R150f manual transmission?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure if they are the same mount.

[@brentdavis7047]

After checking my transmission mount I can't get a pry bar in to test it because both pieces of metal are actually touching. Guess I'll get that ordered

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sounds like your mount rubber insulators totally disintegrated. Good luck with the replacement.

[@ernestolugo6404]

Hola, puedes decirme si son iguales las 2 bases de los soportes del motor 20 R de un pickup toyota 79? Gracias. Hi, can you tell me if the 2 bases of the 20 R engine mounts of a toyota 79 pickup are the same? Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ernesto Lugo - No estamos seguros si son iguales. Tendrás que tirar de ellos y comparar.

[@ernestolugo6404]

@@TimmyTheToolman Muchas gracias.

[@MrWill821]

Great video Timmy. Where did you get that repair manual? Thanks again for the video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Swillynostank You're welcome and we're glad you like the video. I found the FSM set on Ebay.

[@MrWill821]

Thank you sir.

[@LuisMorales-fv1rk]

@@TimmyTheToolman can you sell copies of the parts explain

[@LuisMorales-fv1rk]

Some copies of the pages

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@LuisMorales-fv1rk What pages do you need?

[@damacknificent151]

Hi Timmy, did you ever find out what was actually causing that movement in the trans when coming to a stop or accelerating? I have that issue too.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's got to be the rear slip yoke binding. When I've taken the rear slip yoke off the driveshaft and greased it really well, the clunk goes away for a little bit but eventually comes back. I've learned to live with it for now. Eventually, I'm just going to buy an aftermarket driveshaft from somewhere, most likely from Tom Woods.

[@mmmansuy]

@@TimmyTheToolman Did you ever get a new driveshaft? Cus I've taken off my rear & driven in FWD but still had the clunk. Curious if that fixed it...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mmmansuy I never got a replacement rear driveshaft. I still have the rear end clunk. I was thinking I'd eventually get a replacement driveshaft from Tom Woods.

[@mmmansuy]

@@TimmyTheToolman shucks! nobody seems able to figure this thing out. did you remove your rear driveshaft & drive in 4wd? cus when I did I still had the clunk which should basically eliminate the rear shaft.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mmmansuy I never removed the rear driveshaft and drove in 4wd but I did notice the clunk would go away for a while after a good greasing of the slip yoke. I'm convinced it's a driveshaft issue.

[@appleguy6708]

Hey Toolman can you show me one for a 2003 Sequoia

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, there's a chance we might do this for someone at some point but I'd say you probably shouldn't wait for us. This video gives you an idea how to accomplish it so you should be able to figure it out. You just need to make sure you support the transmission and transfer case properly while removing the cross member and replacing the trans mount. Same goes for the engine mounts. Make sure you have the engine properly supported so it's safe to unbolt the motor mounts. Having 120 click point flex head ratchets and having flex head box end wrenches makes these types of jobs much easier because access to turn wrenches is limited.

[@ponyboyack00]

I think I bn paid somewhere between $175-$300 in 2011 to have this done. The mechanic couldn't find the clunk my 99 was experiencing. I'm not even sure they replaced it. I'm pretty sure it is the slip yoke clunk as it remained, and still remained today. Although only after a harder brake to a full stop, if I let off a little at the end of braking, soften the end so to speak, it nearly eliminates the clunk? The clunk wonder...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, I still have the rear end clunk on my 2000. One day I'm going to get rid of my rear driveshaft and replace it with one from Tom Woods.

[@miniinvictor7608]

buen video saludos . tengo una prado 2001 caja automatica y al aplicar R y aveces D PEGA UN GOLPE que puede ser ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's hard to diagnose via the internet. It could be a bad transmission mount or maybe it's an issue with the transmission itself. Have someone in the driver's seat switch the gears from drive to reverse over and over again while you are under the vehicle trying to detect where the movement and noise is coming from. Just chose someone you trust that isn't going to run over you. Good luck!

[@miniinvictor7608]

@@TimmyTheToolman ​ gracias por la respuesta , realice eso verifique soportes , y esta todo bien , viene como de la parte del cardan delantero , en ese pedazo de las junta homocinetica. . mi pregunta es PUEDE UN JUNTA HOMOCINETICA CAUSAR ESE GOLPE ? O LA TRICETA DEL MISMO ? GRCIAS

[@thepianofamily8304]

Did it help to reduce the movement when you shift from P to R and from R to D? I also found that my 4Runner also seems to have excessive movement (more than what I expect) when shifting from P to R and from R to D.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I did the job thinking it might be the cause of a rear end clunk I had. I never had any issues when shifting. It didn't correct the rear end clunk. The clunk I am experiencing is an issue with the driveshaft slip yoke. But, worn out engine and transmission mounts could be the cause of your problem. It's worth a shot to replace them.

[@saltysf]

@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy, any chance you caught the culprit for the rear end clunk?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@saltysf It's got to be the driveshaft slip yoke binding and then becoming unbound. The only time I've been able to get rid of the rear end clunk is right after manually greasing the slip yoke splines, but in my case, it doesn't last too long. For some, the clunk stays away for a lot of miles.

[@Miles-wy1zr]

Did you feel a difference at all with the new transmission mount? You said you had a clunk. What ended up making that sound? Same issue on my 95 Tacoma with the 5vzfe

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@Miles-wy1zr I didn't feel a difference. The clunk is coming from the driveshaft slip yoke becoming unbound from the main driveshaft.

[@ModyTech]

when i lowered the transmisson i couldnt get the 4 nuts back on the holes

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The whole drivetrain is suspended with mounts. The engine mounts must have had enough give to throw off the bolt alignment for the trans mount. Were you doing this on level ground or at a slant? It's better not to have gravity working against you. You'll have to get in there with some large pry bars and shift the transmission in the direction it needs to go for the bolt holes to line up. And I just remembered, you could have bolted the trans mount on backwards. Did you try flipping it?

[@yota_guy8955]

i have the same year 4runner 2wd. 2 years ago i replaced my driveshaft. now driving at 67 MPH, its vibrating. would it be the driveshaft is out of balance or a bad yoke or a word transmission mount? thank you, cliff

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Vibrations can be hard to figure out. It could be the driveshaft is the culprit. Once a driveshaft is properly balanced, the only way I could see you getting a vibration from it is if one of the u-joints was bad or there was gross play in the splines of the slip yoke. Have you inspected your driveshaft for any play in the u-joints or slip yoke? There is a slim chance the balancing weight on the driveshaft came off, but those are welded on and I sort of doubt that happened but anything is possible. Check to see if the balancing weight is still on the shaft. No driveshaft is perfectly balanced so you should see a round plate somewhere on the shaft welded on. I sort of doubt your transmission mount could be the reason for the vibration but take a look at it and make sure the rubber hasn't become separated from the metal it's sandwiched between.

[@yota_guy8955]

Timmy The Toolman thanks you! I’ll be check the driveshaft and try to pin point where the vibration is coming from thank you again for your help.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@yota_guy8955 Let me know what you figure out.

[@kylebergen4545]

Hey Tim and Sean! Do you think it would be possible to lift the transfer case & transmission off of the crossmember and replace the mount without actually removing the crossmember? About to do this on my truck and wondering if that would be doable.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Maybe. Depends on how high you can jack up the transmission before you hit the body. The cross member isn't hard to remove though.

[@kylebergen4545]

This is true but it would definitely save some time if I didn't have to remove it and re-install it. I am going to try this route and let you know what I'm able to achieve.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah of course. Go for it and let me know how it works out.

[@kylebergen4545]

Hey Tim! Finally got around to doing the transmission mount. I was successful. The main reason I wanted to do it this way was because I have an aftermarket crossmember that's 3/8" thick, way heavier and requires more bolts to loosen. It took a little bit of coaxing but I was able to remove it with the transmission jack all the way forward and I slid the mount out toward the front of the vehicle. It may almost be easier to remove the 19mm bolt in the center separating it from the plastic nub at the bottom. I didn't try that though. My mount when removed had 1/8" less gap between the top and bottom plate. It also had some cracking but not more play when mounted in the vice then the new one. The mount was indeed bad and greatly improved the road handling of the vehicle when going over bumps. Hope this comment hopes those as much as your video did. Cheers!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad it worked out Kyle. Good job getting it done.

[@danmac247]

Great video. Do you know if this is the same for the manual transmission?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The engine mounts should be the same, when it comes to the transmission, the concept to replace is identical, but i don't know if the part number is the same.

[@trevorl6033]

I have a 2000 4runner. I get a slight bump in the back after releasing the break after a stop. I had a mechanic tell me to change the motor and tranny mount. So we will see. I'll report back, but if anyone else knows anything feel free to chime in.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It is most likely your slip yoke binding. This is a fairly common problem. Try greasing your slip yoke really well and see if that lessens or eliminates the bump you're feeling. Addressing this problem was the first 2 videos I've made. My 2000 unfortunately still has the issue. I think the splines got worn from poor lubrication and no amount of greasing will fix the issue.

[@lukeneave]

Easy good, video is spot on how to install, don’t bother not taking the crossmember out way easier this just don’t let the trans fall 40mm like me hope I didn’t break it ahah 😂👍🏼

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Luke, I'm not quite following what you're saying. Are you saying you swapped the trans mount out without taking the cross member out of your way?

[@lukeneave]

Timmy The Toolman nah I accidentally didn’t have the transmission supported for like 30seconds by the jack when the crossmember was out, jack slipped away making hang there not supported, reckon I done damage or is it fine cause still bolted to the engine? Cheers

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@lukeneave You just put a lot of stress on the motor mounts. But, they are rubber sandwiched between metal and can give quite a bit so hopefully no damage was done to them.

[@lukeneave]

Just done the same as youse but my jack supporting the trans fell while the crossmember was out, did I damaged something I can’t see anything broken?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@lukeneave You'd have to take a close look at the motor mounts. One way to check if they are still intact and not completely torn is to lift your hood, put it in drive with the emergency brake on and give it a little throttle. If you have an automatic, put your left foot on the service brake and right foot on the accelerator pedal. You'll see the engine torque in one direction. Now do the same in reverse. As long as the engine doesn't lift up dramatically, your mounts are ok and not broken.

[@justaschwinginx2339]

What are the part numbers for the 3rd crossmember bolts and nuts that hold it to the frame of the vehicle as well as the four bolts that tie the trans mount to the 3rd crossmember. I want to replace mine and can’t find the part numbers anywhere.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We don't have those part numbers. A local Toyota Dealer parts department will be your best bet. Or, you could just go to a hardware store and match them up.

[@justaschwinginx2339]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank your sir I appreciate it. And also I love the videos you have put out and how detailed they are. I just bought a 98 4runner and have been watching your videos non stop for jobs that I need to complete and get done. So thankful to have such great references to go off of

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@justaschwinginx2339 You're very welcome. Glad you appreciate the videos we make. Good luck with your 4runner. Have fun with it.

[@am932]

did the noise and movement improve after the swap?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it didn't. What I suspected originally is still what I think the issue is. It's the driveshaft slip yoke binding and unbinding.

[@bwame]

Did replacing them solve any type of vibration? I'm getting a vibration in my floorboard when accelerating or constant throttle. Checked using your method and saw some vertical movement of the engine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it didn't solve any vibration for me. If you have a 4wd model, it might be an issue with your driver side front differential needle bearing that the CV axle rides on. Check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYmsl3t3p9mpfJo

[@bwame]

@@TimmyTheToolman actually replaced the needle bearing with the ECGS kit a few weeks ago. When I jack up the front end there is no play in the wheel bearings (12 and 6 o'clock check) and no grinding noises or movement laterally in CV shaft where it goes into the hub and diff. I found the t4r forum thread where you said to check by putting it in gear, foot on brake, and giving it throttle. Definitely see some play up and down in the engine. When I put my foot on the rock slider I can definitely feel a lot of vibration when giving it throttle. Both in drive and neutral. I replaced my trans mount a few months ago because of vibration and the rubber being worn out. Starting to think the engine mounts are going bad since they're 23 years old (have a 99 4wd sr5). I feel a bad vibration in the driver's floorboard when accelerating. Feel it most when going up a hill or gaining speed. Thinking I will replace the mounts with some OEM ones. May solve the issue and if it doesn't it's probably going to be needed to be done eventually. The depressing life of battling my 4Runners issues.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@bwame OK, good luck with the engine mount swap. Remember, flex head ratchets with 120 engagement points are your friend.

[@GYoung-dk5of]

Tim have to recently moved out here to phoenix area brotha? Always thought you were in norcal

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I live in San Jose, California but do a lot of my parts ordering from Camelback Toyota in Arizona because their prices are very competitive, they ship quickly and they will ship for free if your order is $150 or more. I order most of my parts from them. I sometimes visit my local dealership for small things I don't want to wait for.

[@GYoung-dk5of]

Great tip on Camelback parts sir!! I can drive by their on my way home from work . And thank you for all the hard work you put into these amazingly helpful videos

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and we're glad you're getting some use out of our videos. Happy Wrenching Brother!

[@Samson-EC]

Unfortunately, I had to pay someone to replace my mounts. Expensive as hell. But, what I wanted to ask is what would you use if you did not have a transmission jack. Can you use a regular jack?...thks..jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A regular jack could work, but if you were going to jack up under the transmission pan, you'd have to place a board on the jack to disperse the load so the trans pan wouldn't get damaged from concentrating the load on the small patch offered with a standard floor jack.

[@Samson-EC]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks timmy..jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Samson-EC You're welcome.

[@tahahadada1936]

Timmy ,I have a problem ,I have a 2wd and it bumps /jerks ,like a strong rock detween D and R ,also a light jerk between first second and third gear on low rev

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It could be a trans mount issue but maybe it's a problem with your transmission.

[@tahahadada1936]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks 👍👍👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@tahahadada1936 You're welcome.

[@oscarvazquez9865]

Que bien

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Muchas Gracias

[@digitalkoh]

Hi Tim, thanks for the video. My 4R has a low/med-pitch rumble and very slight vibration through shifter only during acceleration in gear when I give gas. Is this normal? Because the engine revs smooth with no rumble souund when not in gear. Car accelerates fine. No other vibration. It's that rumble only when I give it gas in gear. It's a 1996 manual, 142k miles. I changed all fluids including diff, trans, t-case, lubed joints, plugs and wires. Ujoints have no play. That rumble occurs at all speeds as soon as car starts moving as long as it's in gear and giving gas. Could it be the trans mount?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hard to say if it's a bad mount. Sounds more like a driveshaft issue to me. Have you checked for any play in the rear output shaft of the transfer case? It might be something you'd want to get up on a lift and put the vehicle in gear to see and hear what you can to narrow down the source.

[@digitalkoh]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for your quick reply, Tim! Will check.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@digitalkoh Ok, good luck.