Traxxas 3.3 HD rod upgrade and crank and bearings

[@OmarGreeneotraPedroVerde]

I am pretty good at rebuilds and have had a lot of success, but every time I watch your videos, I learn something new. Thanks!

[@thebug4046]

Hey man glad it's helping! I try to get into as much detail as I can! Thanks for watchin! 💯🤘🏻🍻

[@sasquatchcrew]

Its winter here in montana but I just fired up the old Traxxas 2.5r and I'm learning so much more now than when I was 13.

[@thebug4046]

Raining like crazy over here in Vancouver bc Canada not running anything as it's all a swamped

[@181le6]

Golden spectro. Old school. Love it. It's all i ran back in the 80's and still do today.

[@thebug4046]

Been running it on and off for years as well. Not that easy to find around these parts unfortunately

[@181le6]

@@thebug4046 yeah, i hear ya. I'm in Rhode island, and had to look around a bit to find it.

[@thebug4046]

@@181le6 Vancouver Canada here. We don't get jack shit but the stuff no one else wants so we usually order stuff in if need be. Like klotz and all that good stuff

[@TraxxasGemini3.3]

I have 2 of those hot racing flywheels.. I admit yes they're a pain to install but worth it.. I'd use the M2C Modded Traxxas Clutch Nut instead of the normal traxxas one (modded one has a slot cut in it so the clutch springs key in very securely and it isn't very expensive at all), get some clutch springs fpr more tuning options (stock the hot racing ones are 0.80mm i measured them myself.. Kyosho, X-Ray, and Flash Point make springs that'll fit long as they're "long tail" versions.. i have 1.1mm kyosho springs on this with my modded os21tm powered revo and she MOVES OUT!), and a good clutch spring tool can make it easier (or try your patience and skill using a screwdriver and your fingers 🤣! ).. ercm pipes are awesome! I'm trying to get 2 or 3 more myself! Hope he's doing well and he can get back taking those babies!

[@thebug4046]

@@TraxxasGemini3.3 I'm definitely looking forward to it I might grab a second one for another project Hey when are you going to get back on Facebook what's going on with that?

[@michaelgraham2943]

This is the best TRX 3.3 or 2.5 rebuild video on KZbin

[@thebug4046]

Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words 🍻

[@scottl5910]

Wish I could get my hands on one of those HD 3.3 rods. Thank you for these videos I replaced my 3.3 bearings, rod and pin after break in. Hopefully will give it a longer life

[@thebug4046]

Yeah I don't know why he did such a limited run on these rods for whatever reason kinda sucks but as long as you change the rod the pin and the bearings every so often they usually will last quite a long time

[@TraxxasGemini3.3]

@thebug 404 I heard he semi retired and the material for the rod was not only very expensive and hard to come by but it is hard to work with yet it'd very durable.. I wish I could've gotten 3 of those rods in all honesty (1 for immediate use with a couple spares for other engines)

[@marvinlathan]

You are amazing tell it straight awesome delivery two thumbs up I broke a rod and piston I feel very confident about rebuilding thanks to you

[@thebug4046]

Hey thank you very much for the kind words I really appreciate it and just take your time I'm sure you will be able to get the job done no problem!

[@scottashton6533]

I'm only halfway through and you're cracking me up..good video Ricky ( Trailer Park Boys)

[@thebug4046]

Hahaha your very welcome 😎😂🍻

[@amputeerc9298]

Love the video man, as always, keep it up. Btw when you were talking about cleaning out the little port in the front of the case, I pull one of the bristles out of a steel/brass wire brush. Holding it with some pliers, run it back and fourth in the hole. it's stiff and will break up all the junk so you can blow it out with carb cleaner

[@thebug4046]

Hey buddy thanks for watching I really appreciate it and yeah that works absolutely perfect as the wire brush bristle that's a good trick option I should have mentioned that but Hey thank you for bringing them up! KBN!!!

[@josezcerda2039]

You keep it real, you speak your mind and if you don’t like it see another video! As long as your bearing is a Abec rating 3 or higher your good. Example Abec 1, 3, 5, 7

[@thebug4046]

Hey man thanks for the kind words! 💯 and absolutely! I run the best bearings i can get for a reasonable price. I ran SKF bearings from Sweden for many years without issue. I think they are Abec 4 or 5 from what I remember. I have been having great luck with Acer ceramic bearings lately as well. 💯🍻

[@josezcerda2039]

@@thebug4046 my family member gave me a revo 3.3 nitro truck. I received the fuel,easy start wand, glow plug and the easy start motor I ordered. First nitro I owned I have RC boats, buggy’s, drones, etc since I was 14. But I’m gonna need some help this first nitro if I could bug you if I bring any problems, I’ll text you.

[@thebug4046]

@@josezcerda2039 no worries buds I'm in the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook im an admin. In pit viper sun glasses. If you post up in their it will be easier to point out any issues you might be having. For fuel a 20 or 30% nitro no more than 12% oil. Avoid basher fuel and top fuel if possible. Run the OS lc3 glow plug and if you need a good glow igniter that will last years get a sonic tronics 2.5 glow igniter 😎

[@damonbridgmon7199]

Thank you again for all the help. Just got a new wirst pin and new acer bearings. Btw the bearings are on sell for 17.99$ each US. You rock man!

[@thebug4046]

Nice! Replace the rod as well. And Acer bearings are 30$ Canadian at the moment. That's why I run SKF in everything 😉

[@damonbridgmon7199]

@@thebug4046 will do its 30bucks here... I believe I've heard you also say no need to "re break in" the engine..correct??? Sorry man your freaking awesome and I'm glad I came across your page when I did. I have lipos but recently got that 2.5r revo and now it's a 3.3. Thank you for all the info you give us man!

[@thebug4046]

@@damonbridgmon7199 no worries buddy glad it helped ya! And after the rod pin and bearings just take it easy for the first tank of fuel. Also when it comes to the rear bearing you want the ball side of the bearings facing outwards. I have a video explaining. Nitro engine bearings and things you should know. I'm using my HPI F4.6 engine but that doesn't matter. If you run steel cage bearings like I do then non of that matters.

[@damonbridgmon7199]

@thebug4046 did you ever get that hot racing clutch working? I've seen so many things about 3 shoe designs and idk what to do keep it stock or ? It's a revo 3 3 with a 38spur and 15tooth clutch bell.. haven't even tried messing with the gearing yet

[@thebug4046]

@@damonbridgmon7199 they engage harder and have more holding power then stock if you need it. Up to you a lot of people use them

[@jaybominationxd7782]

gr8 videos!!.. thanx soo much ! exactly what I needed... just getting back into hobby after a decade off lol👍🏽 much mahalo from hawaii🤙🏽NITRO!!

[@thebug4046]

Your very welcome! Glad it helped ya! Got all kinds of videos you might find useful or interesting. Thanks for watchin! 🤘🏻🍻

[@dariomendez4755]

Your videos are very informative. Keep up the GREAT WORK!

[@thebug4046]

Thanks for watchin!

[@74DuallyVan]

Absolutely love the commentary. Definitely has a Red Green show feel 🤣

[@thebug4046]

Haha thanks for watchin! 🍻

[@douglikins2326]

Nice video, enjoy the information Love tinkering It had but taken one of these apart yet

[@a2rc]

Great vid. Next best thing to rebuild my own engines is to watch you and others do it 😂 Thanks for the vid

[@thebug4046]

Haha thanks man and just take your time cleaning up and preparing everything on a quiet day on a well lit clen work space. You can do it i bet you anything.

[@Matthew_Does_To_Many_Things]

I hate the stock clutch spring for the 3.3 I’ve blown 3 clutch springs after one gallon of fuel….. I got some advice from the old guy at my local hobby shop and he said to replace the bearings and don’t give it full throttle from at stop all the time. So far so good. If it happens again I’m getting an aftermarket clutch. I already put my nitro slash away for the winter here in northern Illinois with high a quality 2 stroke oil.

[@thebug4046]

The oem clutch is alright but yeah if you're hard on them they don't last.

[@hpiedsavageed7608]

Happy Thanksgiving to you too! And keep burning nitro!

[@kelvinhopes8410]

You deserve far more subscribers, new to the hobby but keep ending back up on your videos. You have a way with words 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@thebug4046]

🤣🤣 Thanks for watchin! Welcome to the hobby!

[@Blue_Smoke_81780]

Great tech tip 👊👍

[@thebug4046]

Welcome

[@shaneglover99]

Bro great video man. Thanks bro

[@thebug4046]

Anytime

[@justinmanse2849]

Fixing to do the same next weekend

[@RickyD1968]

Awesome channel !!!

[@thebug4046]

Thanks man

[@aabiddeen7987]

Yesterday I got half an hour run time on my 2.5 -T Max on fuel half an hour run time amazing

[@thebug4046]

Nice

[@eduardolopez4185]

thank for making this videos bro nitrogang

[@shanemills7789]

Zip ties is mine I love his Channel and yours Channel

[@thebug4046]

Me to! Thanks for watchin! 💯👌🏻

[@daniely30]

Another epic video 👍

[@stevebarr9604]

Man I used that golden specto even way back in the 80s

[@ShadowOppsRC]

Good fuel goes along way with not trashing the internals!

[@thebug4046]

This is true. I noticed top fuel to be very corrosive compared to others. I wish I was able to make home brew again. It was the best fuel ever

[@grizzlyrc8720]

Great video thanks for the info

[@thebug4046]

Welcome

[@georgymislitsky6942]

I love you comments during the video.

[@thebug4046]

Thanks for watchin! 🤘🏻🍻💯

[@BigD_RC]

Sweet video bug, enjoyed it

[@thebug4046]

Thanks Bub

[@jimmygeorge4268]

What’s a good replacement carb for the traxxas 3.3…. I am not satisfied with the stock one at all…great stuff. Thankyou

[@thebug4046]

If you can find one the OS 11K carburetor. Also upgrade the a os lc4 plug

[@jimmygeorge4268]

@@thebug4046 Thanks. Again AMAIN has 2 choices of this carb,,one is on back order,,which is for 18 TZ,,21 tm. the other is11 k which is available is an 11kr. For 21 Tm,,both are around $85.00,,they look identical,,,I’m not sure which one to get for my 3.3..can either one be used? I don’t know what they mean with numbers after 11K,,,just need to be sure before I spend the money

[@thebug4046]

@@jimmygeorge4268 Look at the throttle arm because sometimes they are different one will just go to a point the other will have a ball on the end he want the 1 with a ball on the end depending on what it's going in for a tmaxx the one without is for the revo

[@jimmygeorge4268]

@@thebug4046 Thankyou sir…it’s going into a nitro slash,,it has the 3.3…should work….you’re a life saver….great stuff,,,you’ve educated me a lot….🇺🇸👈🚘

[@thebug4046]

@@jimmygeorge4268 no worries buds any time!

[@hamdahaziz7382]

Great work

[@jimmygeorge4268]

I didn’t catch it,,,,but which way does the open end of the piston face into the block,,,Thankyou 🇺🇸🚘👈

[@thebug4046]

To the front! The cut out go's to the front or it will kit the crankshaft lol

[@terrytaylor4828]

Basically I'm asking what crank, Rod & Piston Upgrade combo did you use in the 3.3 would like to do myself after break in for my drag build

[@thebug4046]

There is no upgrade parts available for this engine except for the upgrade rod witch isn't available anymore. and bearings and carburetor. OS 11K if you can find one. If you want it modified send it to RB MODS and he can do it for you. We are all trying to get him to make another few hundred rods hopefully 🙏 but if you want check out Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook. I'm an admin in their lots of reality good guys that do exactly what you're setting up to do. 🤘🏻🍻💯

[@brandenplays5326]

9:20 I slumped over when that knife came at me😂😂

[@thebug4046]

😆😆

[@Rebecca_The_Dragon]

Great Video, Happy Thanksgiving

[@thebug4046]

Thanks same to you!

[@Moggmodels23]

Looking good pal nice video

[@thebug4046]

Thanks man!

[@terrytaylor4828]

Great video I'm new to the whole Nitro RC building but plan to build a No Prep Drag Truck with the Slayer 3.3 & rebuilding the motor is best for Drag Racings Hard Runs. Was the piston & Rod Upgrade from a 3.3HD motor or ?? Was it just stock 3.3 motor just new rod & piston with pin? Thank you again & keep building I'm learning tons

[@thebug4046]

Hey man I do have a 3.3 upgrade rebuild video a couple of videos down and it's just a stock engine with an upgraded connecting rod quality set of bearings in a different carburetor and pipe. Saddle RB MODS isn't making the HD rods anymore but if you can find a good pipe and header combo and run a quality fuel and put a fresh rod pin and bearings in after the first 2qts of fuel run a 30% nitro with 10% oil os lc4 glow plug. I explain a lot of it in my other 3.3 video. And thanks for watchin! 🤘🏻💥💯

[@maxxman1234]

How has that hot racing clutch set up been treating ya? Any good? Also did you use the lighter or heavier springs in the package?

[@thebug4046]

Hey man I haven't used it yet but from what I understand they work good. And it just had one set of springs in the package. I'm assuming there is others available 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@denisdenis2034]

Learn that opening the piston pin clip goes down (at 6 o'clock) or up because at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock the speed of the piston can make it close so get out of the groove and break the piston and the sleeve.

[@thebug4046]

Yup it goes back in the same position as factory.

[@jakepaintin7215]

After a rebuild do you have to do another break in cycle?

[@thebug4046]

If you replace the piston and sleeve then a full break in is required. If you replace the bearings connecting rod and wrist pin just take it easy for one tank then send it!

[@ohio737pro]

Hello sir great channel.. I love your vids and commentary. I run the 3.3 in a mudboss setup on dirt oval. It is basically treated as an open class so I wanted to build a decked out engine for it. It would appear that Mr. Davis has passed away and the connecting rod you used in this video is no longer available. Do you know of an alternative to upgrade the rod? I also want to run the Losi 3.4 carb. Thank you

[@thebug4046]

Hey brother thanks for watchin! And sadly nothing else other than oem available. Just replace it with a new pin and bearings every so often to keep it all tight.

[@DirtbikeDad]

For us newbie rebuilders. You didn’t show the trick to get the sleeve out ! Thanks after that I’m good to go !!!

[@thebug4046]

Yeah my bad I forgot to do that it's pretty simple just put a zip tie through the exhaust port and turn the flywheel it will lift the sleeve for you it's pretty easy 😎

[@DirtbikeDad]

@@thebug4046 thanks. I appreciate it. Let’s say I take apart one that’s all gummed up what’s the best way to clean the insides then ? Carb spray brake clean or some denatured alcohol

[@DirtbikeDad]

@@thebug4046 no worries. Took my other jato and wanted to see if it would run. It actually fired up (2.5) lowers idle and opened low side a smidge has good idle Let it idle for a tank manually blip throttle purred the whole time. Temp stayed around 160. As for the other one I got a new motor coming 3.3. Let the fun begin. Love your vids. Great info💪👍 from me

[@thebug4046]

@@DirtbikeDad denatured alcohol will eat up the varnish without damaging o rings then use a fine oil on the carb slide like air tool oil.

[@thebug4046]

@@DirtbikeDad right on man! That's awesome! Are you in the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook?

[@tonydetwiler2624]

good stuff 💯

[@thebug4046]

Thanks buds

[@shakinbass_5318]

Is there an upgraded crankshaft that you would recommend for this engine?

[@thebug4046]

Sadly no. But if you contact RB Mods he is still modifying 3.3 stuff including cranks 🍻

[@nunnf-off407]

CanI use oil ( Lucas break in oil) from building 350 4 bolt is it fine to use (Lucas )

[@nunnf-off407]

Thanks so very much

[@thebug4046]

I'm not sure i haven't had any experience with it. The high zinc might effect the break in and or the glow plug. I'd just use a normal engine oil or 2 stroke oil

[@thebug4046]

No worries! Good luck on your rebuild! 😎💯🍻

[@timsprague542]

Hey bug: love your videos,but I didn’t catch the name of the upgrade rod I’m going to rebuild my 3.3, thanks a bunch my friend…

[@thebug4046]

Hey man thanks for watchin! And unfortunately it's no longer available from RB Mods. We have been looking into finding a person to manufacture HD rods but no luck. With the factory rod if you completely 86 everything Traxxas says to do and preheat the engine and give it about 4 idle tanks to start the break in procedure with keeping the temperature up kinda like the Adam drake method will reduce the stress on the rod and help it Last longer. I usually change the rod wrist pin and bearings about the 1 gallon mark they won't spit on you. Also with fuel i try to get a 8% oil fuel and add Blendzall castor oil to 10% for additional film strength helps Traxxas engines Last a really long time. And that Measurement is 2.6 fluid ounces Blendzall green label 2 stroke castor oil to 1 gallon. Witch will be good for all engines. I know this might sound a little overwhelming but it's something I have done with nothing but positive results for the last 15 years since the rods were changed.

[@timsprague542]

Thanks bug your a great help keep up the great work and videos!!

[@thebug4046]

@@timsprague542 no worries and will do! Will be another rebuild video tomorrow of force 28R and then a Traxxas 2.5R next week. Also Acer bearings are a nice upgrade over Traxxas bearings 😉😎🍻💯

[@The.BroBrigade]

4:12 🤣 “novelty item” followed by smokers cough.. All jks aside: I’d like to see the bowl/cig yr lightin with that Hoss

[@thebug4046]

Hahaha I don't smoke 😉

[@Baker_1911]

Why do you have to freeze the crank and bearings? Also great vid man 🤘

[@thebug4046]

When you freeze metal it physically shrinks smaller when you heat metal it physically expands larger. 😉

[@Baker_1911]

@@thebug4046 Ahhhhh good to know thanks man 👍🙏

[@thebug4046]

@@Baker_1911 No worries and yeah that's the reason why I freeze the crank and heat the block is because the bearings at the same ambient temperature as the block will never fit together unless you press them in They are an interference fit

[@Baker_1911]

@@thebug4046 See this is why I love your channel because you give out the best information. Thanks again man I’ve got a few projects that I’m working on and this is really going to help me

[@aimlockersesp7680]

im gonna wach your video thats sure

[@TonytheTiger123]

I didn't know AvE did RC. Skookum! ;)

[@thebug4046]

Hahaha he actually doesn't live that far from me

[@MikeLyons-z9u]

I have a classic 2.5 tmaxx took out the 2.5 put 3.3 saw that video and saw that os carb gonna put won on my 3.3 motor right now its just the stock won

[@thebug4046]

You will love it

[@hilham89]

How did you get the 3.3 cooling fins to fit on the 2.5? I have an extra one from a 3.3 and was going to put it on my 2.5 and couldn't get the screws to line up no matter what way i put it on

[@thebug4046]

They are not interchangeable. The reason why my cylinder head on my 2.5 is blue is because it's a 2.5R that comes factory with a blue cylinder head 😉

[@hilham89]

​@@thebug4046ok rhat nakes since. I was about to say. I do appreciate it sir.

[@thebug4046]

@@hilham89 haha no worries buddy I get that question all the time 🤣 also in dropping a video explaining about that and the 3.3 crank mod for the 2.5 should be up in 15 minutes 👌🏻🍻

[@Z_Aye_P89]

To your torque wrench comment, yes wiha makes one not necessarily for rc but it works great for torquing down head bolts and what not on the engine

[@thebug4046]

👌🏻😎

[@Z_Aye_P89]

@ I should correct myself it’s actually a torque screwdriver and it’s recommended the head bolts be 2.2nm-2.4nm or 19.5-21.5 inch pounds

[@thebug4046]

@@Z_Aye_P89 ah gotcha! I was looking at those very expensive here.

[@Z_Aye_P89]

@@thebug4046 honestly I got the wheeler torque fat wrench it’s for my guns but does the same thing 10-65 inch pounds here it’s 50$ not sure what it runs ya up there

[@thebug4046]

@@Z_Aye_P89 about 100 plus shipping so around 150

[@johnmadden9754]

Are you able to get TNR fuel where you are. Where do you order from?

[@thebug4046]

There is a store about 2 hours away that has it I just have yet to go there and buy any I have had a few bottles that someone brought to me a couple years ago runs great

[@TortugaBruv]

Any idea how long stock bearings will last on the 3.3? Kind of regretting buying this engine now.

[@thebug4046]

The bearings aren't very good to begin with right from factory they use very cheap bearings and it's not that you should regret buying the engine they do run really good just replace the bearings of higher quality ones with a rod and pin non magnet flywheel os lc4 glow plug and they last gallons without issue. I do them all the time for people. They are very happy with how they run after. I pull everything apart after the first gallon.

[@TortugaBruv]

@@thebug4046 do you have a link to a flywheel you recommend as well as the pin?

[@thebug4046]

@@TortugaBruv TRA4142 For the flywheel then look up the 3.3 wrist pin 3.3 or 2.5 connecting rod and AVID ceramic bearings for the 3.3 i can't send links in here for some reason. Go to the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook i made a post up about it im an admin in their

[@TortugaBruv]

@@thebug4046 Thank you bro. Yup just saw your post thanks again.

[@thebug4046]

@@TortugaBruv no worries!

[@aabiddeen7987]

It's not only $4 when you lose your pin you gotta use 10 bucks of gas going to the hobby store coming back plus you gotta go to the bear store and pick up some cold shots cause you wasted so much f****** time that you lost your pen

[@thebug4046]

Shit happens haha

[@seththornton7320]

where did you get your bearing NTN bearing from im look

[@thebug4046]

I buy them at a bearing supply house in my area. Or you can by them on eBay

[@skatetoexplorevideos2477]

How long have you had your Traxxas engines last by doing this? Very informative video. Had no idea those parts wore so fast on engine break-in only! Would have to give this a try. I'm new to this hobby. Another question, wouldn't it be best to use the flat part of a number drilled bit to press in the two spring clips on the piston once they're already inside? It would have to be a drill bit with a slightly less diameter of course for a loose fit.

[@thebug4046]

Hey welcome to the channel and UG by replacing the rod pin and bearings every so often you can have the engines life greatly prolonged! As it keeps everything tight and in tolerance. And sure with the but end of a drill bit to check clip seat yes that works good! You really want to make sure it's seated so it doesn't pop out and destroy everything. Also as for nitro engine assembly lubricant klotz super techniplate oil will allow easy start up after rebuilds Just don't let it sit as it's not after run oil. Lucas air tool oil is best for after run oil. Best glow plug is OS LC3 Will give better tuning and last longer. I tend to get into the Is scientific end of things where I will buy a fuel with 8% oil and add 3% racing caster to it for some of my engines. But don't know about that. 🤘🏻🍻💯

[@skatetoexplorevideos2477]

@@thebug4046 Thanks for the info. Will use those O.S. glow plugs in the future. Is the Lucas oil better than Marvel Mystery oil? Or, about the same? I've just been reading a lot of stuff on forums.

[@thebug4046]

@@skatetoexplorevideos2477 The air tool oil is actually a lubricant with a film strength as well as a corrosion inhibitor. Mmo is more of a kerosene based solvent. I have done testing with both and the Lucas air tool oil doesn't damage or Degrade rubber or Silicone O rings. I have done testing on this for many years now and found the air tool oil to be the better out of both.

[@skatetoexplorevideos2477]

@@thebug4046 You're a wealth of knowledge! I will definitely get Lucas then. I was just using skateboarding bearing lubricant, haha. Thanks!

[@thebug4046]

@@skatetoexplorevideos2477 To be honest with you I don't have any experience with that but I'm sure it's been then a wack in the nuts. Also I'm sure you already know this but with these engines the best thing to do is when you're done running for the day let it run out of fuel until it no longer starts that does not hurt the engine in any way shape or form as just the fuel Burns away but the oil is left behind and you do not need to use after an oil every time. As long as you run Frequently but if you plan on letting your engine sit for more than a week or 2 then yes it's a good idea to use some. 🍻

[@twotwocold]

Can 3.3 cooling head fit on 2.5 block?

[@thebug4046]

Short answer? Nope.

[@MikeLyons-z9u]

Go job

[@aabiddeen7987]

Need hot plug fo 3.3 with one to buy

[@thebug4046]

Os LC3

[@seththornton7320]

Where you get the HD rod from

[@thebug4046]

No longer available from RB Mods

[@damonbridgmon7199]

I know youve mentioned Lucas air lube for after run, what about using it like you do the 2 stroke oil? Just curious so when my parts come in i can put it together the bug way

[@thebug4046]

You can use 2 stroke oil or air tool oil to put your engine together with. I just made a video explaining all that

[@damonbridgmon7199]

@@thebug4046 I'll have to go watch

[@thebug4046]

@@damonbridgmon7199 i use what engine oils i have open usually

[@Bubba-lz7kf]

Where do you get the connecting rod from

[@thebug4046]

When they were still available from RB Mods unfortunately he isn't making any more. But if you replace the rod and pin after the first few quarts it will tighten everything up and keep if from letting go on you. I also buy 8% oil fuel and add extra klotz castor oil it 10% Which boosts the film strength of the oil and makes stuff last longer

[@Bubba-lz7kf]

@@thebug4046 thank you because I broke both of my 3.3 connecting rods and I want to upgrade or try and get better ones for all of my motors running the 3.3 but do you know of any good ones or would it be better to run an older style conrod

[@thebug4046]

@@Bubba-lz7kf There is no other connecting rods that are interchangeable at least that I'm aware of and the old style rods went out around 09 or so. But like I had mentioned it's a pretty It's easy to replace the rod pin and bearings. I have lots of video explaining it and how to do it. But like I had mentioned also the additional castor oil really helps the connecting rod live. They usually won't split on you after you replace them after say 3 qt of fuel since the engine is no longer tight and will be much easier on the rod. Without replacing it they usually split around the 3 gallon mark

[@aimlockersesp7680]

greeat video

[@thebug4046]

Thank you!

[@josephsaucedo8691]

You might call me a penny pincher but from what I've noticed is there complete hpi blocks with new bearing in them already for 2 to 3$ Wich is cheaper than a set of bearing I wish there was a chart for witch brand have what size bearing in them in a hpi 3.5 4.1 bearings fit a sh28 I couldnt find a sh28 internal bearing for less than 16$ just for one bearing lol that being said I do fill kinda bad scraping out the bear hpi blocks but iv got all new bearing in several different big block engine for about 3$ for the set I'm glad that the nitro engine I have share similar parts they seem to be all 1/8 scale monster trucks/trophy typed engines RTR I noticed I never really used any thing Traxxas except servos and filters and easy start set ups that about it a lot of there stuff seems like it's electric now I run hpi and red cat trucks and any nitro engine that big block that share similar parts a nitro engine blue print cart for each brand would be awesome for nitro engine guys have I guess I'm surprised for a hobby that Ben around for year no one's ever got together and built a master nitro engine book. like the have for for each real car company brand would help keep the coast down instead of paying close to 20$ for about a 5$ or less bearing. IV recently been to a bearing supply company and it was way cheaper but don't tell them what it's for because all of a sudden price strange it changes. like a skate board bearing cheaper than the same rc engine bearing go figure it the same bearing number I don't care what it says it goes to any was that my rant have a great one till the next one happy holidays go nitro 👍👌✌️💯🍗

[@thebug4046]

There used to be a book that had all that stuff in it many years ago and I don't remember exactly what it was called but it pretty much listed almost any factory production engine and most the specifications as well as bearings are what not most big blocks will take the same front bearing which I believe is a 607-2RS bearing Then all you need is just a $40 digital micrometer To measure your old bearing and then order the ones of the correct size I did notice sometimes you can buy engine blocks complete with bearings on eBay for about $10 Canadian but they want $90 shipping so that kind of defeats the purpose lol

[@josephsaucedo8691]

The hpi bearings also fit the sh28 block as well force and dayno might and star tech I think it was. they are all inter changeable just for a FYi from what I no

[@thebug4046]

@@josephsaucedo8691 that's awesome

[@rolandczegledi6086]

Hello sir, I would like to know where I can get this connecting rod? Greetings from Hungary

[@thebug4046]

You can't. No longer available. Change your rod pin and bearings every 2 gallons

[@rolandczegledi6086]

I have had ceramic bearings in for two years, and I have no problems with them. I only have to change the connecting rod and pin after every 10 liters of fuel. I feel it's time to say goodbye to this engine block....One of my friends has a new sh 21 pro engine for sale, I think it will go to the revo. Changing connecting rods non-stop is already boring. Thank you for your response

[@thebug4046]

@@rolandczegledi6086 that 21 will require a big block kit but will definitely be reliable!

[@rolandczegledi6086]

Big block kit ordered, I already have the engine. Will the 3.3 factory resonator be enough for the 21 engine? I checked that the kit only comes with an exhaust manifold.

[@thebug4046]

@@rolandczegledi6086 probably a bit small but it will get you going for now

[@ozoneswiftak]

Is it OK to run a 3.3 carb on a 2.5 ?

[@thebug4046]

Same carburetor is shared between both engines same with the connecting rod and bearings and os lc3 glow plug. Also you can use a 3.3 crank in a 2.5 if you want better performance

[@grim_6102]

As far as the poisonous gas from the chlorinated brake clean that’s welding. You’re supposed to clean your metal with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner if you’re going to weld over it because the chlorinated one puts off that poisonous gas

[@thebug4046]

Yup! A lot of people don't know that and get very sick

[@grim_6102]

@@thebug4046 Absolutely. Great video by the way. Had an ae TC3 when I was like 12ish. I traded it for a T-Maxx after a race meet one night. Lost the glow igniter and easy start. I put it on a shelf n left it at my moms all this time. Fast forward 24 years…… I bought a JATO last Friday n forgot how much fun they are! So now I’ve been tryna find my old T-MAXX all week!!!

[@thebug4046]

@@grim_6102 that's awesome! Hopefully you find it and get it going again! They are fun old trucks 💯

[@jacksonvillejetriders6529]

Where to find a rod?

[@thebug4046]

No longer available unfortunately. You will have to run the oem rod get a gallon on the engine replace the rod wrist pin and bearings and it won't be a problem

[@jacksonvillejetriders6529]

@@thebug4046 will the stock rod be ok after the gallon? Had 1 fail on the 3rd break in tank and a bit gun shy at the moment

[@thebug4046]

@@jacksonvillejetriders6529 don't follow the Traxxas break in procedure. It's extremely hard on you're engine and designed to shorten its life span. Don't use Traxxas fuel either. Run a good quality fuel with about 10% oil. Preheat the engine keep the temperature up over 200°f during 4 idle tanks and take it easy for a quat of fuel when you reach the last tank out of the quart of fuel tune for performance. A longer break in will be less hard on the connecting rod. At the one gallon mark the engine will be fully broken in and at that point a set of Acer bearings a new connecting rod and wrist pin a fresh OS lc3 glow plug take it easy for the first tank and it will guarantee never split the rod on you. I do this for people all the time and absolutely no problems

[@jacksonvillejetriders6529]

@@thebug4046 just copied this! Thanks

[@thebug4046]

@@jacksonvillejetriders6529 i know the whole thing seems a little crazy but it will Yield a stronger running long lasting engine. The os lc3 glow plug really helps it tune and run absolutely awesome. And I run sidewinder pro blend 30% nitro 10% oil in my Traxxas engines and they love it. Usually what I do if I can get fuel with 8% oil is bump it to 10% with blendzall green label castor oil for additional film strength and engine protection. Witch is 2.55 fluid ounces to one gallon. And if you have a 2.5 put a 3.3 crank os lc3 plug same fuel and they wake up quite a bit! Both engines will take the same bearings and rod. I have a handful of full 3.3 rebuild videos if you need a reference. A lot of people will crap on Traxxas engines but with the right stuff they aren't bad at all. Also if you can get an OS 11K carburetor they run like a top dollar engine. 😉🍻

[@damonbridgmon7199]

Best bearings to get for the 3.3?

[@thebug4046]

NTN SKF NSK KOYO ACER bearings are the brands i use.

[@damonbridgmon7199]

@thebug4046 do you by chance have part numbers for the acer? I wanna go with some either good. Brand new 3.3 with not even half gallon through it done lost bearings

[@thebug4046]

@@damonbridgmon7199 go on eBay ACER sells the bearing kits just for the 2.5s and 3.3 engines.

[@damonbridgmon7199]

@thebug4046 okay their website is crazy lol

[@thebug4046]

@@damonbridgmon7199 never used it lol I also don't buy bearings with rc brand names because they are a massive rip off here.

[@jakehughes-mt4fj]

I can’t believe the stock main bearings are so cheap

[@thebug4046]

Pretty pathetic. If you ask me.

[@josephbarajas8178]

Do your straight to the point

[@thebug4046]

No other way man people make video that have 30 minutes of nonsense before they even start barley touching the subject

[@Dabber422]

You must be Canadian? :)

[@thebug4046]

Yup! Haha

[@Dabber422]

Me too@@thebug4046

[@thebug4046]

@@Dabber422 in the Vancouver area of BC

[@zzz7zzz9]

If brake cleaner gets burnt, the smoke can kill you.

[@thebug4046]

That's non chlorinated that I'm using. It's perfectly safe to burn. the chlorinated stuff is really bad if you try to burn it 😉

[@zzz7zzz9]

@@thebug4046 yup.

[@robertsrbell7811]

Just caught your Chanel awsome you know you shit .

[@thebug4046]

Thanks for watchin!!

[@jimmygeorge4268]

THANKSGIVING…lots of turkey,and beer,,,,I’m a total waste case…..damn tryptophan….🇺🇸👈🚘. 🥴🥴🥴

[@TheNitroAddiction]

Mustard Gas 🤔

[@thebug4046]

Huh?

[@TheNitroAddiction]

Chlorine is one of the chemicals in freon. When it burns and turns to fumes (Mustard Gas).

[@TheNitroAddiction]

@@thebug4046 It's similar.

[@thebug4046]

@@TheNitroAddiction ah gotcha! I was like I'm pretty sure I didn't rip ass on video lol but yeah it's bad shit for sure

[@TheNitroAddiction]

@@thebug4046 😆 🤣 😂

[@20502chris]

Dude like wasted my time because I still can't figure out how to get the piston and sleeve out but his FUCKING HANDS ARE IN THE WAY

[@thebug4046]

Lots of other videos on KZbin. Go check another..

[@Jasonkartracing]

Hey bud got a question that GS .18 I got the crank sticks out really far and the tip is threaded like the dynamite and not c-clip like the traxxas can I cut it. The threads go really far so I’m not to worried about that. Do you have Facebook.

[@thebug4046]

Hit up the nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook posted up a picture i will pop in and talk to you. I'm an admin in their. Be sure to answer all 3 questions on your way in. See you there! 🤘🏻