Tray Watering Method for Nepenthes

[@PaulFalk-m4w]

Nice presentation.

[@andrewbocz2596]

I have been having good results with using net pots with some spagnum layered on the bottom to help with wicking and a chunky mix on top of that. You can hang the individual moss fibers out of the bottom similar to the string method you showed in your first pot to help pull mositure into chunky mix. It was mentioned at the end but picking up your pots periodically is important! The roots will grow into the mat. Thanks for the video! This is great for people who want to take vacations lol.

[@dolcev1135]

Thank you for the video! I tried this method during my 12 long days of vacation with my pings and neps. Pings have mainly akadama/kanuma/perlite as soil mix, and they were happier without my care, because they received me with flowers!. I think the small/shallow pots helped to keep the plants moist. The neps were a different story. All survived, but lights were too strong for my Ampullaria, it's recovery. After your video, I have to change the neps soil mix to lfsm, if I want peace of mind during my next vacation. Thank you a lot. 😊

[@WindowsillNepenthes]

Fantastic tutorial Blake! Thanks for sharing this method, I never tried but one day I will!

[@hughbussey5234]

Blake, I’m wondering how often do you have to do a wholesale water change in your trays? Thanks for putting this together! I love this and what a time saver

[@oscarh3682]

Great tutorial. I was wondering if you don't have a problem with algae growing on the mat.

[@aureliusfeynman485]

Interesting talk, but I think 3 points should be adressed or stressed further. First, a steady disinfection program is essential to longterm success of using standing water or recirculated for irrigation. Zoomycetes can thrive in these systems and capillary mats can (and will eventually) be covered in algae without proper measures taken. So the use of a disinfectant like Zerotol or a homemade solution of hydrogen peroxide should be applied every 2 weeks ideally, on the mat and in the water reservoirs, to curb the development of these organisms. Second point, in moments of high water demand (e.g. summer heat waves), capillary action can be insufficient at maintaining the water column in the media, so you can run into a "bottle neck" in the water supply to the roots. This of course depends on many factors, like the size and type of pot used, root system development, size of aerial parts of the plant, etc. But it should be stressed that young and recently potted plants are at higher risk, as well as plants potted in taller pots or net pots. In these circumstances, it's advisable to provide top watering at least weekly and up to once a day depending on conditions, to prevent issues. Thirdly, for those who apply fertilizers of any form to the media, salts of these fertilizers will accumulate over time in the top 1/3 of the media, due to the salts migrating upwards in the water column and then accumulating due to the evaporation/consumption of water in this layer. Again, periodic top watering with "softer" water will leach these salts before they accumulate to a toxic level. Don't use pure distilled water for watering, some EC is needed as otherwise there will be osmotic stress to the roots.

[@domgia9248]

So self watering pots with wicking rope, sphagnum/perlite mix should work well?

[@TheCarnivorousChronicles]

You mention Akadama is poor at wicking water like coir is, this is not true at all, ive got many plants like veitchii and truncata potted in akadama / kanuma mixed 50/50 on capillary matting in netted pots, and the media has no problem at all wicking up water, its VERY good at absorbing water.

[@KiernanFay]

why not just use paper towel?

[@ConstantinBoca]

i think it would degrade too quickly, i mean.. put a paper towel in the sink and it will break apart 😅

[@janstewart2041]

Maybe make a mat with many layers

[@janstewart2041]

Buy a bunch of sponges lol