Updated 1:350 Scale Polar Lights TOS Enterprise Build Series Pt 2

Part 2 of my updated build series of the Polar Lights 1:350 scale TOS Enterprise model kit. Here I finish up the saucer lighting and finish with gluing the upper and lower sections together. This video build series is available in order in my channel playlist.

[@mattalki]

It's fun to watch these newer videos, Boyd. It's cool to compare techniques. There's lots to learn in this hobby, even for the most experienced. I"m really glad you're doing this.

[@timcc001]

Beautifully done, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@scando4728]

I’m following you for my build, thank you Boyd for what you do!!!!

[@ricardoortiz-wn6ff]

So cool the way you setup the wires great job 🖖

[@ShawnMcClureModeler]

Thanks for the tips Boyd. Looking forward to building mine.

[@fubarmodelyard1392]

Great series Boyd. Thanks for giving us some ideas we can kick around

[@Murphy_Peoples]

Love having you back and making videos Boyd. Thanks.

[@kurk1701a]

Brilliant tutorial very well narrated with great explanations on how to do the lighting and what to watch out for,as well as great tips.well done.

[@deanmcbeth4140]

You are a brilliant modeller mate !

[@timwilson5550]

GREAT job Boyd!!! Thanks.

[@tommylambert8684]

love your videos the main loop of wires are called "MAIN BUSS" keep up the good work

[@theensignschair]

Awesome to see this update Boyd! Perfect timing too because this is my next build I'm getting ready to start!

[@TrekWorks]

Cool, have fun building it, it's a nice model.

[@danharris5999]

Good to see an updated build log. You mentioned an uneven fit of top and bottom saucer sometimes. Mine was the replacement smooth saucer I bought, and on this one the lower bowl edge is actually higher on the join than the top edge most of the way around. Not a lot, but noticeable. Fun time sanding.

[@scifimodelshop]

that is a massive amount of wires, you can for sure get lost easy. Lots of great info thanks for sharing maybe I break out my kit in 2021

[@henryschmitt7577]

I have the ship light blocked and I am going ready , for the first time in my life to light a kit. I did it once before in 1980 with AMT’s Refit smoothie Enterprise which I thought was cool except I didn’t light block it 😁

[@TrekWorks]

Have at it and enjoy the build.

[@jimhargreaves6315]

Great video Boyd, love your builds. Just one comment, please could you give us a more close-up view when you are showing the lighting installation...cheers Boyd

[@scando4728]

Now, I did buy the bridge from Shapeways, and I found the bridge instruments, and visual screens on Etsy, that are printed on 35mm film, that I will use, and then diffuse them.

[@cwam1701e]

I know a lot of what you do must be determined now by your order book, but I would love it if you could do an updated series for the 1/350 refit the next time you have to build one!

[@GPGPapercraftTX]

Wire Wrap Wire is part of a prototyping system. One can get pins designed to poke into .1” center prototyping board. A little tool strips then spins the stripped wrap wire to the post. Little boards in each section of the hull could receive wires. Solder the whole magilla and cut the posts short once everything is in place or just leave it. The un soldered, wrapped connections will run as is for years. As to power, I have put batteries in parallel to extend the available runtime and keep the same voltage. That is a great way to compensate for the marginally higher current use from a parallel wiring circuit. Series circuits sum resistance. Parallel circuits basically average the load, lower resistance equals higher current draw.

[@wraith20072007]

Hey Boyd, I understand the one wire of NEG. and POS. and tapping an LED from the sides and just hot glueing over the exposed solder joint of all three wires...but there is a way you can still use a shrink tube to safely secure your solder joints, what I do is I use my fine tip snippers and bend the shrink tube nip a hole as close to the wire gauge as possible in the center of whatever length tubeing I'm using, take the wire I have coming from and SMD or LED and fish it through the hole and fish each end where I cut the wire so that all three are at one end...solder then gently pull the center wire till the solder point is a Mil. or two from the hole I cut, then use the lighter to heat the shrink tube and it will shink as it should and will close around the third wire coming in and it's as strong as if you just joined two wires together and used shrink tubing and there ya go, just thought I'd share that... Happy modeling.

[@jamessullivan5168]

Thanks so much for these videos. I do model railroading and am getting back into building sci-fi models also. When I first looked at your wiring I was scratching my head and then it dawned on me that we wire our railroads the same way. We run (I use DCC) bus wires all the way around the railroad and then install feeders from the rails and you are doing your wiring exactly like that. I would ask a couple questions though. One: Should I get a variable DC power supply to check the wiring (I expect "yes" to that) AND Two: you're using Modelmaster glue instead of something like Plastruct Bondene. Is that because it stays liquid longer rather than evaporating like the Bondene tends to do? Thanks so much. These tutorials are helping a LOT!

[@Spindrift-id1ez]

Even with this video explanation all that wiring still looks scary, Makes me glad I got several other kits like a Flying Sub and Jupiter 2 i'll be building and lighting first before moving on to something as complex as my own 1/350 Enterprise with Tenacontrols LED motorless kit

[@jayblanchard4477]

Honestly, lighting the Jupiter 2 (depending on the level that you go to) can be much more complex than the Enterprise.

[@Spindrift-id1ez]

Actually the very first kit I'm going to practice lighting is a vintage Leaf Ericson I was lucky enough to locate that not only has the record but still has the original clear Red and Chrome engine parts. Then I'll move onto the Flying Sub and then the Jupiter 2. And while I have ordered all the bells and whistle J-2 after marked items from photo etch to a circuitry wall insert that has real miniature circuitry in it, I'm not feeling to intimidated about it because I'll be starting out with the Moebius plug and play lighting kits.. What's intimidating about then doing the 1/350 TOS Enterprise is that the Tenacontrols lighting kit unlike the Polar lights plug and play doesn't include the window lighting and so I'm hoping to learn from these new videos from Boyd how it all wires to the same power source.. Frankly I don't understand why Tenacontrols doesn't make there own fully plug and play kits, I'd pay the cost for it.

[@RankinImagery]

Agreed, that’s why I worked on the shuttle craft and the Martian war machine first before I start at the enterprise. Still working on the Martian war machine as a matter of fact.

[@Spindrift-id1ez]

@@RankinImagery The Martian War Machine! That's it! Ya know after being out of the hobby for almost 30 years I am finally retired and now have the time and money to get back into it, And I've spent the last few months ordering all the Moebius, Polar Lights and Round 2 kits I've been drooling over for the last few years, In fact I just ordered yesterday what I figured would be the last kit for my massive stash which is the Proteus, But there was still something missing in the back of my mind, And that was it, The Martian War Machine... Thanks :) Now I just hope I live long enough to finish all these kits. I'm not exactly a young man anymore, Which means my eye sight and the dexterity in my fingers ain't what they use to be, But there's still something satisfying about owning them all at least.

[@RankinImagery]

@@Spindrift-id1ez I understand about the age thing. I am 63 and semi-retired. The only modeling I've done was as a child and that was basically 'glue and stick it together'. No where near what is done today. Building the TOS has been my 'life's work'. Building it perfectly, or as close as I can get to perfect. Also with a base lightbox.

[@Ryker06]

Great video, thanks. This was made about 2 years ago. I searched for the model master liquid cement you used and appears it is discontinued. It appears to have given you some time to adjust getting the saucer halves lined up properly. Most of the pure CA glues will not provide sufficient time. What are you using now since that glue is not readily available? Thanks.

[@antoinechristopherofficial]

This is beautiful where can I purchase the kit, also how much do you charge to build one???

[@wraith20072007]

A few questions....while you are gluing the Top and Bottom Saucer sections and the inside Structures don't the glue start drying about a minute after applying? I can't see that the glue would still be wet enough to seal both halfs securly enough seeing the glue might be partly dried in some spots before adding the Top half of the Saucer, I glued smaller halfs of model and I had to hurry cause my glue would start drying before I got to the other side and it wouldn't seal good...had to use a slower drying glue. I was using Testors glue in the black diamond shape bottle. Does that model Master glue you're using take longer to dry?

[@viciouspoodle5543]

Anyone sell a COMPLETED model with the lights for those of us to inept to ever put such a model together?? Thanks

[@swpowell1226]

Can you please show how to do the masking later on ? I have never seen that done to get ready for painting. Would like to know how to do it properly.

[@TrekWorks]

Yes, I'll be showing every step of this build.

[@swpowell1226]

@@TrekWorks Thanks Boyd.

[@danielramsey1959]

Anyone ever thought about using a visible line laser diode to simulate phaser blasts?

[@Spindrift-id1ez]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3WvfWOmjLN4Y9E

[@lestatdelc]

Problem with lasers is, you need particulates (like smoke, fog machine) in the air to make the beam visible. Otherwise for the most part you end up with two laser pointer dots showing up where they are aimed at from within the model.

[@TrekWorks]

I don't use lasers because they have a very limited life span. Once they burn out it means tearing the model apart to fix them. They do look cool though.

[@Spindrift-id1ez]

@@TrekWorks Not that I can ever imagine putting a laser in a model, The fact that they don't last is definitely good info to know, Thanks :)

[@outsider238]

Very nice tutorial. I'll be interested to see how you mask the windows. That's always the worst part for me.

[@RankinImagery]

It seems like it would be easier to use Canopy glue instead of the original windows and then wait till after you painted it to apply the canopy glue to the windows? He probably has a reason for that I just wonder what it is.

[@outsider238]

@@RankinImagery Yeah I do the windows after painting that way I don't have to do all that masking but I absolutely hate masking things. Haha! But it is unfortunately essential to the building process. I guess if you're going to fill the seams you'd have to install the windows beforehand anyhow. I don't usually fill the seams on my models so I don't have to worry about that. The seams don't bother me unless they're really bad.

[@Grobelix]

Hello Boyd. Are these LED strips meant to run at 9V or 12V ? Can I order 12V and simply run them with a 9V 1A supply?

[@TrekWorks]

They will work from 7-15 volts. The more voltage, the brighter they look.

[@malcomterry7076]

I ordered some 0805 LEDs but they don't come with resistors. Anybody know how many ohms I would need for those?

[@malcomterry7076]

Never mind. I just saw that all the LEDs come with the Tena Controls LED Fan Blade and Control Boards. I'm assuming any resistors needed are on the control board.

[@TrekWorks]

@@malcomterry7076 If you do need resistors for the SMD's, 470 ohm 1/4 watt will work fine for operating between 9-12 volts dc.

[@3737Skip]

How would I contact you to build my Polar light kit?

[@GPGPapercraftTX]

I am astounded at how poor my concept of right/left is. I mark stuff all the time now because I am exhausted from re-making stuff after I realize I did it backward. Yeah-buddy mark the lights!

[@williamhoughtaling1602]

Boyd, which one of the Solarez do you use? Getting my stuff together and was wondering on it. Tia

[@randygagliano4929]

I was looking at the website for Solarez and comparing to Boyd's video, he is using Solarez Doming Resin. It is $22.75 for a 2 oz bottle and the flashlight is $57.20. I did a little more research and found out that most "UV flashlights" aren't powerful enough to cause curing. My opinion is if you're going this route, spring the extra money for their flashlight.

[@duaneeddy3984]

Why the F UCK do you have to interrupt yourself halfway through (around 27:11) with asinine fly by night crypto currency investment scam ads? Right when we're closely focused on the minute detail of the Solarez application on the wondows? have you no integrity?