Tri-ang Jinty R52 1958: chassis and pick-up conductivity test prior to lubrication.

  Рет қаралды 72

Patrick's Models and Transport

Patrick's Models and Transport

Күн бұрын

Checking that the chassis and pick-ups are conducting electricity before lubricating the axles with technical petroleum jelly.
#train #railway #modeltrains #railroad #modelrail #modelrailroad #steamengine #locomotive #triang #jinty #pickup #servicing

Пікірлер: 10
@CZ350tuner
@CZ350tuner Күн бұрын
I use a Guage Master drill equipped with a wire wheel to clean the sintered iron flanged wheels (yes, they're made of forged very fine iron dust particles). They were stamped out, by a hydraulic press, much in the same way as coins are made. The flangeless wheels are cast from Mazak.
@patricksmodels
@patricksmodels 18 сағат бұрын
@@CZ350tuner interesting manufacturing technique. I'll have to get a modelling spec power tool. I could fit a brass wire wheel to my Makita battery powered drill-screwdriver, but it would be quite bulky.
@CZ350tuner
@CZ350tuner Күн бұрын
This chassis, with the pillar for the body securing screw, was only found on the R.52 Jinty & R.253 Deeley tender loco. It was not used, after 1960, because it meant that two different non-cross compatible 0-6-0 chassis were being manufactured, one for the R.52 & R.251 and one for the R.152 Armstrong-Whitworth diesel shunter & R.153 saddle tank.
@patricksmodels
@patricksmodels Күн бұрын
@@CZ350tuner I had noticed that most of the Jinties on KZbin don't have that pillar, so that explains it. Mine, as you said in another comment, is a 1959 model. Thanks again!
@CZ350tuner
@CZ350tuner Күн бұрын
@@patricksmodels The R.152 and R.153 have an L shaped adapter plate for a rear mounted body securing screw. The adapter plate sits where that pillar goes, so you can see the problem this creates. This does mean that the pillar chassis units can only be used with R.52 and R.251 body shells. Also no after market white metal kit loco bodies are compatible with the pillar chassis, unless it's modified with a hacksaw. My BEC kits LNER J11 0-6-0 tender loco will only fit non-pillar 0-6-0 chassis. The same goes for my BEC kits LNER N7 0-6-2T, which is on a re-wheeled (scale) 1956 - 1958 non-pillar Triang Jinty chassis The Triang 0-6-0 chassis evolved and changed quite a few times, from its introduction in 1953. I've gradually, over 50 years of model railways, ended up owning examples of all of them.
@TRENINI-AEREI-AUTOMODELLI
@TRENINI-AEREI-AUTOMODELLI Күн бұрын
Oramai manca poco al collaudo sui binari 🚂🚂🚂🚂👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😊😊
@patricksmodels
@patricksmodels Күн бұрын
@@TRENINI-AEREI-AUTOMODELLI Sí, ci siamo quasi. Questa locomotiva ha viaggiato parecchio, il nonno del precedente proprietario l'ha portata a casa a Taranto dall'Inghilterra, dopo che aveva lavorato un periodo in Gran Bretagna, poi è arrivata qui a Padova a casa di un mezzo scozzese 😉. Questo recupero lo dedico ad un mio vecchio prozio scozzese, che era ferroviere in cabina d'arresto proprio sulle linee della vecchia ferrovia LMS London Midland Scottish. È stato proprio il mio compianto Uncle David a regalarmi il mio primissimo trenino Hornby a molla per il mio terzo compleanno. Gli dedicherò un video. Oltre ai treni si interessava di storia militare, aveva combattuto ad Arnhem nel 1944 nella sfortunata Operazione Market Garden nelle truppe aviotrasportate su alianti Airspeed Horsa. Quando è mancato nel 1989 mi ha lasciato i suoi libri su entrambi gli argomenti. Una bella persona, che mi manca ancora tanto, ma che in qualche maniera vive sempre nei miei ricordi.
@CZ350tuner
@CZ350tuner Күн бұрын
The loco should also distribute power, through to all the wheels on one side, through the connecting rods. You may need to clean the locating pins on the connecting rods.
@patricksmodels
@patricksmodels Күн бұрын
@@CZ350tuner Thanks for the tip, I gave the wheels and connecting rods a good scoosh of contact cleaner, but I'll check those crankpins again tomorrow. 👍
@patricksmodels
@patricksmodels Күн бұрын
@@CZ350tuner I've just had a look at them, I released the screw on the central wheel and removed the connecting rod and applied a little technical petroleum jelly to the pins and to the screw collar. It's a very ingenious system. I'm repeating the process on the other side now.
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