TRIPP LITE PR-25 POWER SUPPLY REPAIR

[@Spector_NS5_RD]

more troubleshooting / board repair! I really enjoy watching you work. one of the few electronics repair channels where i actually mute my TV and you have my full undivided attention.

[@fullwaverecked]

Success! Great video!

[@bundylovess]

Nice repair mate big thumbs up I like the way you solder in IC

[@The_Active_Region]

Thanks

[@bonscotty67]

I see this is 6 years old, but if you happen to still be around, I have a question... At 17:30 you said the two output posts go through the back of the chassis. Then you said you were going to leave the board with the posts aside so it didn't short out against the chassis. My question is are the holes in the rear rubber grommeted in any way to protect the posts from contacting the the chassis? I ask this because I have the exact same power supply. If I tighten up the nuts on the outside, it will not produce any voltage output. Right when I loosen up the positive post nuts, I regain my 13.94 volts. I noticed there is a washer on the outside of the chassis on the negative post. Should there be one on the positive as well? Or does it need to be protected by a grommet? Did my grommet fall out? I can't find any diagram or parts manual for it to show me. I've been watching yours very closely to see if I can catch a view of it fully assembled and decipher what I'm doing wrong or right. Maybe a close-up picture or an explanation of the layout of the order of nuts bolts and washers...? If you ever find the time, it would be greatly appreciated. No rush. Just has been a mystery for a while and I sure could use my bench tester back. :-) thank you in advance for any help you could offer. You know your stuff and I enjoy this channel. Take care and God bless

[@gregjones3660]

"Yeah I'd like to get a schematic for this power supply" "well I'll tell you what you can do. You can go screw alright pal?"

[@crconn1]

I saw your repair, very well done. In your video you mentioned that you had a PR60, I have one in need of repair. I tried your repair, but it did not work. I think I have an issue with the low current output winding on the transformer, can you tell me what the AC voltage should be on the two blue wires to the connector on the regulator board.

[@abeleski]

good job mate but it would be nice if you didn't cut out the bits where you test out the rest of the elimination process re transistors etc. For a newbie like me it woild be helpful. dont have to show testing all of them. I enjoy your repairs. Thumbs up.

[@charlesw318]

great work bro keep the videos coming

[@raym9691]

What type of flux do you use? Great work!

[@soundsystem5686]

Wat a beautiful work , really so neat perfect job, i love your work , great lab , instruments professional

[@dricklorenz9340]

Another great video...

[@ssnider7967]

I have a PR-15. It was working but now it is only putting out 4.3 - 5 volts. I'm getting 22.75 volts on the board you showed to test. Any ideas for where to start troubleshooting? Thanks.

[@supersolex]

nicely done man!

[@richardmorris4430]

Interesting video as I was given a PR25 that puts out 12.5 Volts and wondered if the video would give me some clues. The points where you measured 21 volts show about 23 volts on my unit. The PS came from a company that may have adjusted it down to 12.5V. I see two trimmers but have no idea what they do? Any suggestions?

[@joshfisher7418]

What microscope are you using? Could you or somebody recommend a similar setup with the camera? Thanks!

[@JeffGraff-rg5nx]

I have a PR-25 also, and got the same response from TRIPP (now part of EATON CORP) when i asked for a schematic. Mine has 13.8 VDC output, but injects a steady hum on transmit and receive into my Icom IC-2720 that goes away when hooked up to the car or a different power supply. Obviously, it's in the PR-25. I hate to just convert it to a "Boat Anchor", but lack the skills of where to troubleshoot. TRIPP says to replace it. I may not have their kind of experience, but I know it's something simple. Any suggestions on where to look?

[@kevincampbell8298]

Like your microscope.. Can't use just a magnifier any more..... What make and model is it? Stopped doing electronics a few years back because of meds for kidney transplant gave me the shakes. It was too hard to solder... But want to get back into it...

[@johnsimms3957]

I wonder what caused the IC to fail? Anyway great video. Could you also make guitar amp repair videos?

[@simon_a_s]

Quality stuff as usual, you deserve a lot more subs ;)

[@The_Active_Region]

Thanks.

[@MasterNiva]

Excelent as usual thx

[@mortenrolsing7137]

Thanks for the video, always interesting, love trouble shooting videos :-)

[@annierenard5954]

very good thank you

[@ericrush2393]

hi, what make/model is your volt meter? It has a nice bright display.

[@The_Active_Region]

It is this meter. www.amazon.com/Bench-DIGITAL-Multimeter-Accuracy-RSR/dp/B0007ZJ6X0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1492079044&sr=8-9&keywords=rsr+multimeter I got it off Ebay much cheaper. This model has a few different brandings. RSR, Mastech and Sinometer.

[@markgilbert9930]

Hi, Try Dollar General makeup applicators, cheap and no fuzz.

[@cbwizz]

what brand of flux are you using. where can I purchase this flux and the dispenser I see you using. maybe a part number on this item. thank you.

[@charlesw318]

Hey Kevin how are you is there any way I can get in contact with you about a motor control board my email is [e-mail] thanks

[@praestant8]

Just like the IC’s in an Astron are often the first thing to go...

[@krisgehlken3177]

How can I send something to you to see if you can fix it? It's a kicker 750 monoblock

[@hannonm]

might wanna Lobby for the right to repair....And thanks for the Video :D

[@petenikolic5244]

Must be a bit of an over stated under rated thing if they wont release the Schematic .

[@stevec5000]

An easier way to remove SMD chips like that is to tin the leads with Chip Quik low melting point solder then just lift the chip off, wipe off the excess solder and you are ready for the new part. I think Chip Quik probably has gallium in it that starts to melt at 85 degrees, it's what psychics who claim to be able to bend spoons have the spoons made out of so they will get soft and bend from body head by just rubbing them between their fingers.

[@wizzkidelectronics]

Good stuff kevin . Yeah tripp lite is not very helpful . Seems like sence thay got away from using the lm723 regulators thay have went down in quality when they work there great when they dont good luck

[@w9gb]

Tripp-Lite PR-25, 40, and 60 are standard LM-723 Linear regulator designs. Difference is number of NPN pass transistors (2N3771) for Amperage. Schematic diagram for ALL three models (YouWon Electronics) www.wb4iuy.net/dave/hamradio/manuals/tripp-lite_pr-20thru60.pdf

[@gentiandume9480]

Hi w9gb if you can help me with te apsint 3636vr tripplite inverter/charger schematics. This is my inverter which works well in inverter mode but when pass to charging automatically burn some mosfets in H-bridge. In this model the same transformer works both as charger and inverter. It work as charge without problem when set the switch to charge only.