Triumph Bonneville Clutch Replacement

Start to finish demonstration of a 2010 Bonnie clutch replacement, including part numbers and a new trick or two. I used the Mark Barnett kevlar clutch kit, the green springs and various Triumph standard parts. In my case the clutch wasn't completely shot, but it was worn enough so that the friction zone had moved away from the handlebar and become rather abrupt. When I opened up the case I found worn friction plates and at least one sagging spring. The new clutch brought the friction zone back toward the handlebar. since I was working alone, I came up with a new trick to hold the wheel secure while loosening the clutch not. It worked like a champ!

[@christidmas3995]

Really good effort.Good angles and no background noise or music.Very methodical.Well done.

[@ashm2345]

Although i am familiar with motorcycle mechanics, this was perfect for highlighting the small differences that you can expect to come across between different engines. This video goes straight in the saved list.

[@tinderboxarts]

Yeah, you're right. While many bikes are substantially similar, the devil is in the details!

[@mohammadrasool5782]

Great video! Dropped my scrambler doing something stupid and bent the shifter rod. Decided to replace the clutch thanks to you. Hero in book!

[@tinderboxarts]

Bummer about the drop, but glad you got it sorted out!

[@TheDavidGoldmanphoto]

This video is so helpful. I live in Southern California so i decided to take a ride over to Barnett and pick up the clutch kit in person. I met with Mike Taylor (President) and asked about the "Green" springs. He told me that at some point someone spoke of them with regards to racing and that they will have a more direct engagement then the normal springs BUT that the average person will NEVER know the difference between the two and that they are slightly (green) stiffer to pull the clutch. Now I'm not expert... far from it, just letting you know what I heard from the president while he was looking over my bike and pulling in my clutch lever. So of course I went for the green ones ha ha :) Thanks again for this video.

[@tinderboxarts]

Good info--thanks for sharing with us!

[@congdoe]

Great video! Used this as reference to fix a leaky seal on my 2017 Triumph Thruxton 1200 R. Thank you so much!

[@igichan]

Very thorough! Nice vid

[@genechicago4806]

Nice video. I have a 2010 Triumph SpeedMaster, and the service manual for it states that the standard friction plate thickness is 2.92 - 3.08 mm. The service limit is 2.72 mm. It also recommends using feeler gauges to measure warpage between the steel plates at various points. The service limit for that is .15 mm warpage. I hope this is useful to others watching this video.

[@genechicago4806]

Thank you for taking the time to post his video! I used the same clutch kit and seals on my 2010 Triumph SpeedMaster and they work great! I have three tips worth mentioning for others watching this video: You don't need the Triumph tool to install the clutch. It's easy to do if you can keep track of the number of turns you apply to each screw. The way it worked for me was by hand tightening the clutch screws on the clutch release plate so that the springs were sitting straight on the clutch drum without any tension. Then I tighten a screw one full turn(360 degrees). Then I tighten the opposite screw one full turn. I then adjusted the other two screws one full turn and repeated the pattern 16 more times. I then inserted the pushrod seat and it went in and out without any friction. I then torque the screws to 9NM--which is practically the 17 turns. The key is to tighten the screws in opposite pairs. I also bought the green springs, but used the springs that came with the clutch kit because they made the clutch feel similar to when the bike was new. The second tip is to pay attention to the shaft where the wavy washer sits because it may come out from the casting hole when pulling the engine cover off. Be sure that the shaft is sitting flush in its casting hole, that the Idler gear is engage with the Driven Gear. The Driven Gear should turn clockwise without much effort. I used a star bit on the screws that hold the driven gear to turn the Driven Gear clockwise. The last tip is to use a smear of red grease on the gasket to avoid tearing it in case you have to remove the cover again. Safe riding everyone!

[@davidsy423]

Hi brilliant this was a very informative video I will take ownership of my triumph this week and the video gives me confidence as to what to look for, thank you😊

[@leofranssen1032]

Very Nice post. As a youngster i worked so much at my Trophy. Now own a 1200 Sportster but maybe, just maybe one day you’ll see me on a Triumph again....

[@ShuoHuanChang]

thanks for making this video!

[@tinks43]

Great job 👍🏻

[@cornholio1962]

TTP safestart fitting opportunity too

[@TheDavidGoldmanphoto]

That was great and super helpful. Going to go at my 04 Thruxton during Covid19

[@tinderboxarts]

Seems like that's what everybody is doing--we're all going to have well-maintained bikes now!

[@TheDavidGoldmanphoto]

@@tinderboxarts Yep all the time to clean the thing with a Q-tip :)

[@marvinr5054]

I just purchase a 2017 T120 that only has 11,400 miles and it has the same problem you describe with the clutch engaging very late on the lever So I called Barnett company and spoke to there clutch tech and he told me that 2001 all the way up to my year is the same model number that you installed in your bike. hope this helps other Bonneville owners because theirs not a lot of information on the 2016 through 2019 models as far as the clutches go. great video and I look forward to seeing more of your channel.

[@tinderboxarts]

That's good info--thanks!

[@mikemcfarland5551]

Thank you this was very helpful

[@tinderboxarts]

You're welcome!

[@larespuertorico]

Great job

[@SupersamProduction]

Thanks for the video! I used this from start to finish to do my Thruxton today. The only difference is I didn’t have washers behind the springs. And word to the wise, if your exhaust pipes are wrapped, protect them with a plastic bag or something, I was not expecting that much excess oil to spill out when I pulled the cover off. Also I have spoked wheels so the broomstick method didn’t work for me. Luckily my breaker bar is long so I was able to sit on my bike and hold down the rear brake pedal to break and torque that 30mm bolt. Clutch has never felt so good! Thanks again for having this info out there! I don’t know how much the dealership charges to do this, but I’m sure it’s more than the $300 I spent on parts and a few tools I didn’t have.

[@tinderboxarts]

That's great to hear! Glad you were successful.

[@solo_dingo]

Mate, a tip with the 4 bolts on the pressure plate. Tighten all the bolts down to within a thread or 2, then tap the part with a dead blow hammer gently until the pin lines up. Its only the positioning side to side thats the problem with the pin as the bolts have some play in the part.. Then torque down. Takes only a minute or 2. Cheers.

[@coyotegray771]

I can't find the answer anywhere. Do you know what to torque those 4 bolts down to?

[@TheCryptKeeper8]

Thanks

[@tgrobelny23]

Great video! I was looking to see what other seals/rubbers to replace while tackling a leaky clutch cover gasket on a 2006 Bonneville T100. My bike is dripping on the bottom, just a few drips over the winter and wet to the touch. I’ll replace the seals as you did, the two ring dust covers.

[@tinderboxarts]

Yeah, that would be a good idea to include all of them even if they are not leaking. Age and heat take their toll.

[@davec6244]

Good video. Thanks for posting it. I just picked up an 07 Bonneville that may need a new clutch, not sure yet. Putting a broom stick in between wire spokes might not be a great idea but it’ll work with mags.

[@tinderboxarts]

I've thought about the wire spoke wheels, and the broomstick probably still could work with a little preparation. If you place the broomstick in the middle of the spoke, then you could run the risk of bending it. However, if you secured the broomstick or even a wider board at the wheel and nipple intersection I think it might work fine. There isn't a huge amount of pressure on the wheel, you just need to stop it from spinning. You could give it a try, carefully, and just observe if there is any visible stress on the spoke.

[@youtubeisasshoe69]

Great video. could i have just looked in my Chilton manual? Sure. but this was really well done. Mines about 25k miles and is starting to go in 3rd/4th when in the high rpm's. I'm just gonna use the supplied springs from barnett, and don't have a tool, pray for me.

[@tinderboxarts]

You'll do fine. The spring that come with the kit are also probably fine, but if you have any issue report back to us so we know!

[@tommydettotemplar585]

Complimenti

[@Apocalypz]

Great video, thanks! Suggestion when you end up replacing your front and rear sprocket, use a pneumatic impact driver. I spent 30+ mins with the engine in gear, wooden handle through the spokes, rear brake engaged with full body weight, and someone attempting to break free with an extended 6ft breaker bar ... nothing. Only 2 seconds with a pneumatic driver at 300 psi.

[@tinderboxarts]

Yes, sometimes an air wrench works wonders, although if the nut or bolt you're trying to break free tends to move with the action of the tool then much oft he energy is lost. With the clutch I felt safer with hand tools anyway and I knew I'd need to re-tighten by hand.

[@chrislye8912]

6’ breaker bar? That is some torque... I did mine a couple of months ago with a 2’ breaker no dramas, did you unseat the tab washer 1st?

[@JoshuaRoberts-kq9cs]

What alot of people aren't aware of is that they are more than often left hand thread.This means they undo anticlockwise.

[@pstiles50]

At 20:08 you mention 4 washers at the base of the clutch springs. I didn't find any on my 2002 T100 and I don't see them in Triumph's exploded diagram. Otherwise, fantastic video. Thanks for posting. I also just learned, fortunately before ordering, that EBC friction plates can't be used if you use full synthetic oil. So I ordered original Triumph plates.

[@tinderboxarts]

This bike is a 2010 model, so there could certainly be differences. As for the synthetic oil and friction plates, I suspect that information is dead wrong. There is no reason that a motorcycle-specific full synthetic oil would affect friction plates any differently than a motorcycle-specific conventional oil. Both are intended to be used in a bike with a clutch. Possibly you saw a reference to standard automotive synthetic oil being a problem?

[@KrazyAllOver909]

I didn’t see any washers on my 2016 speed master can anyone help me out

[@beelzabob4210]

I have an 06 speedmaster that doesnt have those washers either. Do i need to add them? Nothing on the parts diagram..

[@nigel900]

I see you’re using 10-W40. I believe Triumph calls for 10-W50 in the air-cooled Bonnevilles…

[@tinderboxarts]

Actually, the manual calls for 10w/40 or 15w/50. You would use the 15w/50 if you lived and rode in a warmer climate. There is also a difference between the UK and the states in this matter, as 10w/40 is a commonly sold viscosity in the states but 15w/50 would be difficult to find. In my area we have cold winters and hot summers, so 10w/40 is most appropriate anyway.

[@mikethornton8445]

The old gasket is much harder to get off after it was baked on for 100k miles. I probably took 2 hours to get the gasket surface clean on the engine and cover. 56k so far on the same Barnett clutch kit and green springs. Still works great.

[@jarrettbellboy]

Dang mike - you do a lot of miles on your bike, 156k is impressive on a motorcycle

[@acsamuels3396]

I pulled the clutch basket on my thruxton, the large metal gear behind it slid forward and turned, is there any timing settings for that large gear or the 2 nylon gears below it? Or can I slide it back on and bolt the clutch back in with no worries

[@tinderboxarts]

I think you are referring to the primary driven gear, and you can just push it back in place.

[@nowdatsfresh]

Tip: for cranking down the spring bolts, get a torque angle gauge if you don’t have the clutch tool. It could save you HOURS of frustration.

[@tinderboxarts]

You mean you used that device to visualize how far you were turning each bolt as you went around? I really didn't have an issue with that aspect, it's just that it takes time to do the tightening and I'm impatient. As a drummer, I found this process is actually very similar to tuning a drum, which needs to be tightened evenly as you tune up.

[@nowdatsfresh]

@@tinderboxarts Fair enough, I tried eyeballing it a few times with no luck, then decided to break out the gauge to make it easier. Thanks for putting this video up, helped me out big time.

[@TheReverb1]

Hello; I have two bonnevilles but T140E. The main difference is that is by triplex chain instead of gears (pinions) Anyway; incredible that the cover does not has an oil drain plug and a plug to fill... Then; at least with these older models, you NEVER ever wash the plates with oil; in fact the oil in the primary is only for the chain (I assume that in this case, for the gears). Oiling clutch plates inserts is a way to slippage, drag, etc at least for almost all the bikes up to 80s...are you really sure in these ones are this way? Thanks

[@JS-to9vc]

Really helpful video. I did not buy the extra green springs. I did get the clutch holder tool (t3880360) for $80 which was pretty handy. Tightening the clutch springs was painful. The tension to lock the push rod is so sensitive. Took an hour. Does anyone have tips or the tool he mentioned?

[@tinderboxarts]

I don't know that the green springs are necessary. It might be a distinction without a difference. It is finicky to tight down the basket. One of those things you just have to accept will take a while and you go slow and test.

[@mymoto2695]

Are there torque specs for the 4 spring bolts or how do you know when they've gone in far enough?

[@tinderboxarts]

I believe the spring bolt spec is 9 Nm. You don't need to go ape on them.

[@datadavis]

Better to just nip them up with a bit of medium grade loctite, i think the threads felt quite mushy. And getting like 4 helicoils in that hole won't be fun!😝

[@LordCallaway]

Hi - great video. One question please. Can I use your method to release the large shaft nut by selecting 1st gear rather than 5th gear - thanks.

[@tinderboxarts]

The difference in gear selection is only going to be how much torque you can apply before the wheel slips. If you are locking the wheel in place it shouldn't matter.

[@LordCallaway]

Thank you for answering my question, that helps a lot. My Bonnie is jammed in 1st gear and I need to replace the detent cam plate. I did not want to attempt locking the wheel in 1st if it was going to cause further issues.

[@jaybraithwaite6839]

The parts came from UK. On a slow boat. We wait for 3 weeks to get parts sometimes (I work at a dealership). If they are not in the US.. parts take a while. Nice videos btw.

[@tinderboxarts]

There are a lot of manufacturers who could improve parts stocking and delivery! It really isn't that difficult, but I think the bean-counters don't understand how important quickly available parts are to brand reputation and owner experience.

[@jaybraithwaite6839]

@@tinderboxarts Agreed. Telling my customers that 95% of the parts have arrived but we are waiting on that "one thing" can be difficult. With that being said, Triumph is good to work with and their product is worth its weight.

[@luxlamf]

I will ask a dumb question as I dont think you mentioned it. I bought the Barnett kit for my 2012 Scrambler. All the clutch plates are the same unlike yours that has the 1 with smaller bits on it, what I do have is 1 thicker metal plate. A note came in the box saying refer to manual (I have the Haynes it doesn't mention it) Do you have any idea? Also I have bought both tools to remove the pack and the springs. Do you have the bike in gear durning the procedure or not? Thanks.

[@tinderboxarts]

I don't know for sure why you might have a single thicker metal plate, but typically those would go on one end of the stack of the other. All I can recommend is to pay close attention to the old ones coming out to see if a thicker disk exists there, and also to measure the overall height of the entire stack to see if the thicker plate is intended as a means to tighten the tolerance. Ultimately Barnett should be able to give you an answer too.

[@dvd198311111]

Hello. when the engine is hot and I start at low rpm in first and second gear I hear a noise from the clutch (tak tak tak). Is it possible that the springs are worn and perhaps become less effective at high temperatures? Thank you

[@tinderboxarts]

Temperature can certainly have an affect on the fit and performance of many components. But, noises are notoriously difficult to diagnose. If you pull in the clutch while rolling does the noise go away? It may not even be the clutch you are hearing. I'm afraid all you can do is take some covers off and see what you find.

[@motolab8531]

curious what the torque specs for the clutch throw out plate are?

[@tinderboxarts]

On my model year the clutch nut was 105nm and the spring bolts 9nm. But, different model years may have different specs.

[@vijayakrishnankuttinath820]

Thanks for the awesome video. I have recently bought a 'triumph street twin', and have a clunk sound when I engage the first gear. The clunk come in hot and cool engine, when shifting from neutral to first. The dealer/ service center here, say that it's normal. Can I have some advice on this please.

[@tinderboxarts]

Obviously I'm not there to hear it, but it is pretty common to have a bit of an extra clunk when shifting into first gear. It may well be normal.

[@vijayakrishnankuttinath820]

@@tinderboxarts thanks for the reply.

[@leofranssen1032]

And maybe don’t focus only on the sound but also feel... Feel how it shifts. Is it always shifting good at once. Clunck and drive ? It’s never missing, rattling ? Try feeling the bike, i mean sensing. Know it sounds strange.

[@matthewhayden7781]

How did the new Barnett springs hold up over the last 4 years since this video was made?

[@tinderboxarts]

They have held up well, despite some spirited riding at times! Were they really necessary versus the springs provided in the Barnett clutch kit? I can't honestly say. The clutch pull will be slightly more difficult with the green springs, but it hasn't been a problem for me. If I was using this as a commuter bike in stop-and-go traffic maybe I'd feel differently. I use this bike as my fun ride around local twisties and farm roads, so the springs and the clutch have held up perfectly for that use.

[@rickboutilier6411]

Great video, very helpful, thank you. I have a 2014 Bonneville T100 and believe the same Barnett kit will work, but I'm having a hard time identifying the correct seals to use. It appears that you used genuine Triumph parts. Would you happen to have the part numbers and, if so, could you please share them? Thank you!

[@tinderboxarts]

Your best bet is to use a dealer parts finder, because the part numbers can change or be inaccurate for your model year. See here: www.triumphestore.com/Triumph_2014_Bonneville-T100-EFI.html

[@rickboutilier6411]

Many thanks!

[@larespuertorico]

I love those triumphs but lately I’ve been hearing about a lot of issues with the quality concerning gearbox and other things going wrong which sucks because I really want one .

[@tinderboxarts]

You have to understand that when you read about a problem in a forum or see a video on youtube, it's because the owner is upset about it. Meanwhile, all the riders who have no problem at all also don't post: "Hey, today I had no problems!" Every manufacturer and every bike model have some issues, but overall Triumph is known for very high quality bikes in their current lineup. You shouldn't be afraid to buy one if there is a model you like.

[@JoshuaRoberts-kq9cs]

I'm now onto my sixth triumph and never had a gearbox or clutch problem.It all comes down to how you treat and maintain the bike.But also wear and tea is what my dad says is the joy of motoring.

[@richardvlloyd]

Do you order your parts through your local dealer? I find that's the fastest way for genuine Triumph parts.

[@tinderboxarts]

No, my nearest dealer doesn't really have a huge (or very good) service/parts business. In fact, I was recently talking to a service writer there who said he was having trouble getting parts too! Usually for Triumph parts I go either to Hermes Triumph in Pennsylvania and they ship stuff out by mail, or else bikebandit.com. Strangely, it's usually the more ordinary parts like gaskets or seals that give me a problem. When I needed wheel bearings I ended up researching third party bearings and buying those instead.

[@nicholesimmons9584]

@@tinderboxarts i have a 2007 triumph america. the clutch assembly is the same as the one in your video. when i look for parts for mine the assembly is way different. how can i be sure i'm ordering the right parts. should i be searching for 2010 bonneville parts?

[@tinderboxarts]

There are several websites where you can buy OEM parts by model. You look up your specific bike and there will be diagrams of the various assemblies to choose from. bikebandit.com is one of those sites which offer Triumph parts.

[@leibolq9612]

Awesome! I will do it for my 2015 scrambler. Thanks for sharing!

[@markselzler4279]

The four metal washers that supposedly fit on the post before adding the clutch pressure springs have become a real dilemma. Many, if not most people and service departments I have spoken with know nothing of these washers and replied they have never seen or used them. Many owners, including me on my 2012 t100 state there were no washers present upon removing the clutch packet. Any definitive answers to this disparity?

[@tinderboxarts]

You're referring to the washers I mentioned at 20:00. I'm 100% sure my clutch was virgin from the factory when I took it apart, and the washers were there. My bike is registered as a 2010 and it was actually built in 2009. However, it's entirely possible that Triumph eliminated those washers and perhaps slightly modified the assembly in later years. This sort of thing is common. You could check with a Triumph dealer and see if there was an updated part number for that assembly in the 2010s. In any case, if you opened up your clutch and there were no washers at all, I wouldn't worry about it. It seems unlikely that a previous mechanic would just remove all of them. And if he wasn't paying attention it seems unlikely he would lose ALL four of them. More likely is that Triumph just changed the design.

[@JoshuaRoberts-kq9cs]

Rule of thumb.If there was 4washers in there when you pulled it apart and it was working fine put it back the same way.No washers put it back the same way.

[@TankToChest]

Dude you had a ton of adjustment down at the bottom… The clutch was fine.

[@tinderboxarts]

I think you missed the point starting at around 2:28. The stock springs are marginal under heavy acceleration, and I was experiencing the very beginning of a slipping clutch. The clutch pack was not burned yet, but it was worn, as evidenced by a thinner clutch pack overall. There is a freeplay adjustment for proper lever operation, but that does not make up for weak springs. If the springs cannot hold the clutch pack from slipping under heavy acceleration then the clutch pack will eventually burn out. At the time I could feel and hear slight slipping when doing spirited riding. Since I replaced the springs and clutch pack I've put tens of thousands of miles on the bike and the problem has not returned. The only penalty has been a little more effort at the lever.

[@killer2600]

Looks like you replaced a perfectly good clutch.

[@tinderboxarts]

Maybe you missed the explanation starting at 1:25. The friction zone had moved, the action was abrupt, and the spring pressure was not enough to prevent slipping under heavy load or acceleration. That's why I went the extra mile to source the heavier springs, too. Ideally you replace the clutch before it becomes cooked, right?

[@uharihamat9259]

Hi I need to know my T100 is oil cool model 2015 can you Barnett 303-75-10004 or not?

[@tinderboxarts]

You can look up your bike here: www.barnettclutches.com/clutch-plates-springs.html

[@uharihamat9259]

@@tinderboxarts thanks

[@roderickcavallo8244]

why put in fifth gear and not in first?

[@tinderboxarts]

It just provides better holding power because of the taller gear, that's all.

[@ShaheedSmoke]

I think your seal part numbers might be wrong. T3600095 and T3600008

[@tinderboxarts]

If you look at 25:26 there are the part numbers right on the package. I will say that Triumph has a habit of changing part numbers or having new part number supersede previous numbers, so I always check with a dealer.

[@ShaheedSmoke]

Yeah I see that. Every website I went to showed T3600008 for the shifter seal in the diagrams. It’s prolly the same part. Lol

[@KrazyAllOver909]

Are the just regular metal washers please someone let me know?

[@tinderboxarts]

Did you lose one of those washers I showed at 20:00? Honestly, I cannot remember now if they were something special or not, or even what kind of metal they were. Can you take one that you have left and compare it to the hardware store variety?

[@KrazyAllOver909]

I guess I lost all four which is super odd because I never found not even one! Have to be order, there are not at your local hardware stores!

[@tinderboxarts]

Maybe a previous mechanic left them out?

[@Gone_X_ing]

Great job