Triumph Stag Engine 2 - Fitting Heads and Skimming Manifold

Dry fit of the skimmed heads to check inlet manifold alignment.

[@KJs581]

When I rebuild a Stag engine, (had mine 31 years, done 330,000 kms in it, from 93 to 99 was my only/everyday car); I usually put the heads on in the car, as I find that easier. Engine goes in easier with the heads off as well/more clearance. Each to their own, but works for me. I have two short studs with screwdriver ends that go into the lower "short bolt" holes that locate the head gasket and the head will then locate on. Get the rest of the head bolts in, then undo those studs with screwdriver. I pulled out the ridiculous orig studs the first time I had my heads off (first year I had my car) and took a week to get them out, as corroded in. Lots of soaking with penetrene. I have probably disassembled half a dozen Stag engines, some were beyond saving (well, heads stuck in place, got them all off, but a couple beyond repair) but most came off, but some took forever and major drama to remove, but those studs just are NOT worth the hassle. I replaced mine with high tensile socket/allen head bolts, been in there since 1993, ALWAYS come straight off. Best thing I ever did. As said below, fit and torque one head, then fit inlet manifold, then fit other head. It's a juggling act, but always worked for me. And I have had a couple of inlet manifolds on mine with various intake combinations as experiments. It is back to std (orig CD's) now. Although first thing I did was put helicoils in all 12 inlet manifold bolt holes in the head. Nothing worse than last bolt (always the last one!!!) starts to "feel loose/never tighten" so you know it is stripped. Don't risk it, put helicoils in = never a problem. Good video though.

[@Steviegtr52]

I have built a few Stag engines. You fit & torque 1 cylinder head. You then loosly fit the 2nd head. Then the inlet manifold is fitted & torqued to both heads before finaly tightening the 2nd head. erly crushes the inlet manifold in place. To remove the inlet you have ti 1st slacken 1 cylinder head.

[@simtin3731]

Brilliant video, my inlet manifold is sitting to high so so I will get it skimmed rather than drill the holes out. Thank you.

[@stevesalvage1089]

Yep watch with interest, when we look at the engine quite simple ,, built with care should last for years , built motors recent and worked on them in the day , no problems , the very early stags had dodgy cooling expansion bottle via the rad cap , thanks for sharing look forward to next episode !

[@BarrieSutcliffe-xe7nc]

Hi I think your channel is great ,Thank-you. Can you do an instuctional video on the instalation of a new Distributor on my Triiumph V8 engine ,to include posiotion of Rota Arm. At TDC. Kind Regards.Barrie.

[@Horsleyclassics]

Thanks Barry, I will be dropping the engine in this week so will make a video then

[@paulboath5310]

Interested in were you got the Cometic head gaskets, their website doesn’t have them shown?

[@dustystuffgarage]

Interested in the head gaskets you use. Making some good progress with your build. I've had 8 months reliable motoring out of my present stag, even with the Australian summer heat it never overheated, I've only had ignition problems which are sorted now, theirs a lot of truth about using them as my engine sounded like an old biscuit tin when I got it, but now sounds really good, also going to convert the the canister oil filter to spin on in the near future. Cheers

[@Horsleyclassics]

Hi Enginuity in the UK is a stag specialist and they worked with Cometiq to develop these. They are pricey but well made...

[@davidelliott5843]

A major problem with the Triumph Stag was extremely poor airflow through the radiator. You can fit a double core radiator and it still overheats. The solution is air outlets behind the wheel arches. It’s definitely not factory original but you’ll now get air flowing through the radiator.