Triumph Street Triple 675 Upgrade MOSFET Rectifier & Stator install

On a previous call out this ST 675 would not restart after running for a few minutes. Turns out the stator cover had been damaged (leaking oil) causing it to rub on the flywheel. It had a burnt phase on the stator. The charging from the 2/3 stator and rectifier was not enough to top the battery up. The customer had fitted a new rectifier (ebay) but had no-improvement.
I fitted a new stator, MOSFET rectifier & Triumph wiring harness to the bike. The rectifier on this bike is not in the standard position - why the wiring is a little out of place.
The MOSFET rectifiers are much more reliable and run cooler than traditional rectifiers. I usually recommend a new Rectifier to go with a stator. But if the stator is healthy a Rectifier alone can usually be fitted. Always fit a high quality rectifier & stator as the budget parts don't tend to last very long - or not at all in some cases.

[@samilodi3399]

hey there, I wanted to ask, did you need any special tools for the job or would my metric tools be fine ?

[@bhupenrana8938]

Great work. I too had a problem with RR in ny 2016 Tiger 800 xrx. It came with FH020AA but didn't find replacement in the store and got a used FH009AA and installed. The voltage at idle is 13.95 but doesn't go above even revving at 6-7000 rpm. Is it good idea to go with the FH009AA or get the same model. Worried about stator burn and ECM issues. Datasheet for FH009AA not available, please suggest.

[@germaned.lealnino631]

When i run the bike the voltage constantly drops until the voltage gets below 12v and the bike stops running. I rev the engine and i check the voltage, but the voltage never exceeded 12.3 v. What do you think it is? Any suggestions? My bike was in storage for 7 years.

[@losttheplot1748]

That voltage you are measuring is just the battery voltage and it's dropping. This indicates the bike isn't charging the battery. First place to check is the stator to verify there is good power there and then replace the rectifier with an OEM one. Fully charge the battery and test again

[@tawgyitawgyi2352]

My motorcycle battery not charging How to do it?

[@sokkpupptz]

rectifier or stator is faulty - do these checks or send to a mechanic :) www.triumph675.net/threads/the-definitive-675-charging-diagnostic-upgrade-thread.35227/

[@ryanhartigan7066]

Great video! I’ve just had to buy a new stator and regulator rectifier. It’s a known issue that it was a poor engineering choice for the regulator to go trapped between a down pipe and back of an engine. I like how yours is on the left side above the stator casing. At 5:32 you have some sort of bracket plate for the reg rec to attach to. Where can I get one of these pleaseeee! I want to put mine there in hope I don’t have to change it again in another 2/3 years because of how hot it gets in factory fitted location. The one I’m soon putting on mine is the second regulator in nearly 3 years! So if you know where I can get this. Would be great !

[@losttheplot1748]

I think it was relocated by someone before this owner bought it. It was a homemade bracket out of some aluminium sheet. The MOSFET rectifiers don't seem to get quite as hot as the shunt type versions.

[@Rmmmmmmmmmmk]

Running a MOSFET regulator is still going to cause the stator to die in the future s as it still runs the stator at %100 output at all times and shunts the excess current like the oem regulator. You ought to replace the regulator with a series type such as the sh847 as it will opens the circuit on the stator when it’s not needed, resulting in a cooler stator and longer life. I’d recommend bypassing the factory charging circuit wiring harness as well and wiring the stator directly to the regulator and the regulator directly to the battery with an inline fuse. The factory connectors triumph use are pretty trash and will likely melt at some point down the road

[@losttheplot1748]

Thanks, very good info.

[@mickkelly2229]

Did u have to remove all oil from sump first so you could remove cover

[@losttheplot1748]

Most bikes you don't have to. Some oil leaks out of the cover usually but the oil level is below the cover by quite a bit

[@jamiemadison8082]

Is it possible to just change the stator?

[@losttheplot1748]

Yes but if the rectifier is faulty it might fail again

[@MiguelGonzalezLopezBierzo]

I’m replacing my stator tomorrow. Is it needed to drain the oil before doing this task? Thanks!

[@losttheplot1748]

No, should be ok but a little will drain out the cover

[@BillyHerbert97]

Where was the rectifier from?

[@losttheplot1748]

@@BillyHerbert97 electrex world

[@mijthebarber]

So done my voltage checks ,,,, stator is testing out fine on ohms and voltage checks ,,, was hoping just swapping my regulator ,,, but it sounds like a faulty stator will take out my new regulator. Watching your video don't look too tricky to change. 1 do you recommend doing both anyway , or just sticking with regulator. And 2 do you have to drain your oil before changing stator ??? My bikes symptoms are same once bike is warm and switched off struggles to then start again. What do you think ??

[@losttheplot1748]

The bike struggles to start after running? What battery voltage at idle and 4000 rpm? Needs to be above 13.5 and under 14.9v. These bikes need high quality replacement parts otherwise they don't last.

[@mijthebarber]

@@losttheplot1748 done all those checks , and all ok ,,, even checked the connectors checks and ohms are fine and 4000rpm voltage was on point , which is why I was thinking just changing regulator. Called triumph today and they claimed only way is to open up to see stator. What do you think , take the gamble and just change reg ???

[@mijthebarber]

@@losttheplot1748 it's like when bike is cold fine , but after running a while battery has less life in it even after a full charge

[@losttheplot1748]

@@mijthebarber if you're just running it at idle and not actually riding it... Then a lot of bikes don't actually charge up the battery very efficiently at idle. A better test would be to ride for half an hour and stop and restart. A visual check on the stator is one option. You can open the cover without draining oil as long as the bike is up right. A small amount of oil will leak out.

[@mijthebarber]

@@losttheplot1748 cheers for replying ,,, ordered a new regulator will change it anyway and see ,

[@GoProedify]

what are you spraying on the bike after the covers off and on the hardware before reinstalling the cover?

[@losttheplot1748]

Brake cleaner

[@GoProedify]

@@losttheplot1748 have you had any issues since?

[@losttheplot1748]

No issues with brake cleaner, it can damage some paint - usually cellulose based paints.

[@GoProedify]

@@losttheplot1748 thank you for the reply! how have the new rectifier and stator been holding up?

[@losttheplot1748]

@@GoProedify I don't own this bike but I have heard the bike is running fine a month ago

[@michaeltaylor4873]

I now own this bike bought it a week ago the battery started smoking then completely died can you shed any light on the issue. I've replaced the battery and seems OK for time being

[@losttheplot1748]

I would check the voltage while running and revving to 4000rpm does not go over 14.5V

[@michaeltaylor4873]

Just checked it and it's running 17.6v on idle is there anything I can do to bring this down or are the parts under warranty?

[@losttheplot1748]

@@michaeltaylor4873 that's way too high. I wouldn't run it. If the parts are faulty then yes it should be covered under warranty. I'd have to inspect the bike to see if there any further causes. Send me an email [e-mail]

[@okjosh]

@@losttheplot1748 I realize this comment is a year old, but I'm having same problem on same bike. Starts just fine over and over until I take it on a ride for more than a few mins. Then it struggles or wont start at all until I've let it sit for about 15 minute. New battery and voltage doesn't go above 14.4 @ 4000 rpm. Could it still be the stator and/or rectifier or does this sound like something different altogether? Thanks

[@losttheplot1748]

@@okjosh it's possible overcharging at random times. Try and get a battery monitor by JMP. It records battery charge while you ride. Sometimes they overvolt at high revs. If the battery is hot then it would definitely be getting too much. The stator usually is fine in this scenario