Triumph TR6 BOSCH PI fuel pump upgrade explained

From buying to owning and improving the Triumph TR6 this series aims to give you all you need to know for living with this British classic icon.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Good video and well explained, however be careful running at 110psi. Although higher pressure will allow the fuel to atomise better, it puts too much pressure on the metering unit, and does cause seals to fails. 105psi is high enough. TRGB are now setting up their pumps at 100psi to less this pressure on the metering unit. By tweaking the metering units bottom ring you can enrich the mixture compensating for a lower fuel pressure and increase fuel economy 👍🏻

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thankyou. glad you like the video and thanks for the comment which is useful and helpful for others.

[@davidbroker2451]

Just catching up with your series....most enjoyable and informative viewing....your content is spot on for those like me who are capable of upgrades/maintenance to a certain level without the expanse of a labor rate ....think ill binge watch the remaking episodes....thank you, most appreciated ...

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks David. Glad you enjoyed the videos. Plenty more to come in time

[@janus7bc]

Thanks for the great explanation of the fuel system. I’ve just bought a 1973 TR6 which was beautifully restored by a dear friend. I bought it after he passed away and never asked him about the detail of the work he had done. I’ve got photos of the body refurb, including one with the engine head off. What worked needs to be carried out for the 2.5pi engine to run on modern fuel. (I noted your comments on petrol hoses. I’ll check that. )

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

thanks for watching. glad it helped

[@dochkaian]

First rate, really good explanation (time to get my tools out). Looking forward to the next one.

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks for the comment. Really glad you enjoyed the video and hope it encourages you to upgrade.

[@olleyfamily2662]

Excellent video. Really clear advice on the Bosch conversion.

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks for watching 👍

[@andreasadamou6529]

Excellent video, very well explained. and no stupid music in the background, like most video's these days. Thank you, Excellent.

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, I dropped around 20 videos ago after a similar comment. I get how annoying it can be now!! :-)

[@codelocust3297]

Thanks for excellent thread in video here. I have a mk2 2500Pi french registered that have been modified a long time ago to Bosh but seems to be a mix Lucas/Bosch (as the car still have the genuine 4 ways Lucas filter after the tank and the pressure relief valve) but injectors are Bosch. Thanks for sharing and the very complete and demonstrative video.

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Glad it helped

[@bernardwarr4187]

Very interesting, thanks for the info, from memory I think they have been fitting Bosch pump to Lucas injection system for 30 years?

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

A pleasure, glad youre enjoying the videos

[@kenbrown5927]

Nice video explaining everything. I would recommend someone use R14 spec fuel injection hose (Gates Barricade) as it truly is non permeable to petrol and compatible with today's ethanol fuels

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks for the tip!

[@juliansimmons7700]

...again a very clear and concise record of what's what, delivered in a calm and reassuring way! The petrol smell in the boot and cabin is a real issue, passengers are reluctant to get in again! So I'm about to swap out my R6 and braided hoses. Looking at various R9 hoses, there's Codan 3133 that have *very* low permeability (5g/m2/24hrs) though is rated at a working pressure of 7bar (burst much higher), then there's Codan 3136 with low permeability, but not as low (15g/m2/24hrs) rated at a working pressure of 10 bar. I'm tempted to go for the least permeable, 3133, but would a 7bar working pressure be ok? Or would you recommend another brand? (in the UK)

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks for watching

[@user-wt7ej3du8v]

Great video and explanation, now I have identified the hoses that are causing the fumes issue in my TR6. Is there a specialist you know of that can sort this for me?

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

You can get the gates barricade r9 fuel hose off eBay or internet stores . Not to difficult a job to change yourself

[@lesparry5377]

Thank you for a very useful video. I am now installing a relay to serve Bosch fuel pump as original wiring failed. On a seperate issue have you made a video regarding fuse holder replacement you have installed? Cheers

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

No not yet. Might have a look at that ☝️

[@lesparry5377]

No rush....by this weekend would be good.....😁👌

[@steveedwards4495]

Great information. How often do you need to change those fuel filters? Thanks

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

2 years in and i havnt yet. im thinking im going to go for 3-4 yrs or 10000 miles but thats just my view - no science behind it.

[@garywilliams9810]

Thanks for a great video I. Now understand. I have a noisy Bosch pump almost like an out of tune radio. I’ve been told too put more insulation in do you think that’s right?

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

I wouldnt be putting in more insulation. your just hiding a problem and helping more heat build up. if pump noise and vibration is coming through the car id suggest to make sure the pump and filter mounting plate is mounted on 2 smaller new rubber bobbins to isolate the vibration from the body. after that check performance and operation of each component in turn to understand the cause of the noise. Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the video

[@garywilliams9810]

@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 thanks for getting back to me your videos are great understanding the car much better as we go along.

[@johndurban1442]

Hi, thank you very much for posting this highly informative information. I have just bought a TR6 with an older Bosch pump conversion (from 2015) and there is an over-powering smell of fuel in the boot, which seems (as far as I can tell) to be coming from the cloth-covered hoses between the filter/pump and the pump/PRV. Interestingly I don't have another filter between the pump and the PRV. It seems that your installation really nails the issue that I have - would you mind providing a parts list for the installation in your car please? I'm thinking that if it resolves the problem I have then I would do a lot worse than to replicate it. Thank you!

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks John, everything you need is either on ebay or internet search. Look for a ‘high flow’ filter before the pump and a Bosch high pressure filter after the pump. The pipes are all R9 spec. Gates barricade is also highly recommended. The pump is a high pressure Bosch pump 044 and the PRV is a diaphragm malpessi unit . Look on racetorations website. Not after the pump do not use jubilee clips to hold the pipes as they are at over 100 psi. You will need good quality fuel hose connections

[@johndurban1442]

Much appreciated. I'll look into it.@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349

[@robbey300]

The pump pressure seems too high from what I recollect years ago. Is it not advantageous to have an inline valve from the petrol tank to the pre filter and pump to allow isolation when carrying out maintenance? Good video with plenty of practical tips. 😎

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Great point! Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the video

[@PatrickQUESME]

Bonjour, comment avez vous fait pour augmenter le diametre de sortie du réservoir? Egalement, le premier élément de votre pompe est en bas alors qu'en France il est en haut. La chute est diminué, est ce important? Merci pour votre chaine.

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

The bigger outlet can be purchased from TRGB . The fall doesn’t make a difference. The setup gets a constant 107psi at the metering unit

[@hollywoodd3191]

Is this also applicable for a carbureted version?

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

The PI fuel pump runs at around 110 PSI so needs this pump setup to cope with the injection pressures required. The carb version doesnt need to run at such a high pressure so no it isnt. Thanks for the question.

[@amandasettee8922]

Amanda again , Im trying to purchase the bosch 110psi fuel pump here in canada but I need some sort of part # would you have that part # the imported system from the Uk is way expensive with shipping duty cahrges ect ect and I could have the other filters ect just retro fitted, hope you can help this is very frustrating no one understands the pi system here in canada trying to get my tr back on the road thanks

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Hi Amanda. Internet search for a Bosch 044 pump . Check spec is 8 bar or 116 psi . That’s the type you want . Hope that helps 👍

[@amandasettee8922]

@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 thank you so much you have no idea how much of a sruggle with this getting the right info on this I thought you were the best avenue Im glad I sent you the enquiry , Ill keep you posted on progress thank you again

[@amandasettee8922]

@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 thanky uo so much

[@chtoupidenikos511]

Hello j'ai une TR6 PI peux tu me communiquer le diamètre des raccords du testeur de pression fuel .Thanks

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

They are UNF threads connecting the fuel pipe to the metering unit, from memory its 3/8" but please do check this. thanks for watching and commenting

[@chtoupidenikos511]

@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 infinite thank you

[@sammoj9836]

Need Help. Couple days back, my car started fine, idled well, and ran well for a few miles, all of a sudden sputtered and died. I do have a fuel pressure gauge installed on my dash and it indicates to about 85/90/95/100 psi each time I cycle the ignition key on and off, I do also hear the fuel pump running. I am planning to change the regulator, pump and filter. I am currently using; -Original fuel regulator -Bosch fuel pump, PT No. 0 580 254 921 -Bosch fuel filter, PT No. 0 450 905 401 I believe both of these items are discontinued. May I please ask you for an equivalent items, or the part number of the parts you had installed in your TR6. I also would appreciate any comments, or suggestion that you may have to remedy my situation. I should also add that I live in the US and can't get much here, 99.999 percent of the cars here are carbureted. Much thanks, Sincerely, Sam

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Hey Sam, lets see if we can help. a few simple checks in order will tell you whats wrong. first up swap the filters. you can get a bosch high pressure filter of ebay . try number 0450905021 . the low pressure tank filter is to stop big bits getting to the pump . pretty much any high flow filter will do it. try ebay and brand sytec for example. next get a fuel gauge setup on the metering unit inlet. when you turn ignition on your looking for a steady 106psi. If lower like you suggest, first suspect the PRV. if adjusting the PRV up cannot get to 106psi or hold it in a stable way, id suggest the pump is gone and needs replacing. while your replacing the fuel system id recommend the malpesi diaphram type PRV as its much easier to adjust and is less likely to resonate. and some will also advise a relayed live wire from the battery to the pump to ensure a constant good voltage. This is less of an issue here IMO. good luck

[@sammoj9836]

Allow me to thank you for your response and your fantastic directions. I truly appreciate your help. 1. I do have a fuel pressure gauge installed on my car and It is wired to my (defi instrument) instrument panel. I should also say that the pressure does fluctuate and is not steady. 2. I do have fuel filter before and after the pump. 3. I am planning to purchase the diaphragm type PRV from Revington. 4. I found what the problems was. As I had mentioned, car was running fine and then suddenly it sputtered and died. There after the pressure gauge indicated with each cycle of the ignition switch a range between 85 to 100 psi. I just assumed that fuel pump or the PRV are the culprits. this morning after coming down and attempting to figure out what has happen, I cranked the engine a few turns, checked each injector for traces of fuel (yes), moved on to the fuse box (all good), than to the spark leads (fine), finally to the coil. There it was. A broken wire connector that had fatigued out and was broken from the base of its neck. Barely visible the separation but far enough to disrupt the circuit. Replaced the connector and placed it back on to the coil, SUCCESS! The English lion has reawakened and he planning roar up and down the streets… Much thanks again. Sincerely, Sam @@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349

[@andyMSH700]

Very nice...the only part I do not agree with is the additional 4mm relay assisted power wire for the pump....the old lucas pump took 1.4A at 2200rpm and 13.5V, the bosch kit draws 9 amps and needs an ignition wired relay to supply to supply to the pump as you stated. Running wires the length of the car comes under an electrical modification and this needs to be put forward to your insurance company as it is a dangerous mod even with the use of a fuse so this mod needs to be told to your insurance company otherwise you will not be insured. Apart from this small lack of detail it was a great description of the installation so well done.......very sad you totally went off and against the TR6 later on in your series.

[@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349]

Thanks for watching and great comments. Insurance will obviously be country and policy related but a good point to note for all. I didnt go off the TR, just come at it from a different angle as the final comments hopefully show. Part 2 of that video coming soon will clarify all :-)