Triumph TR6 Engine Rebuild - Part 1 - Dismantling and Assessing

[@tristanhagerty2006]

I’m about to fire up our newly rebuilt tr6 petrol injection engine tomorrow! Your vids are always great! Wish me luck!

[@RustyBeauties]

Good Luck!!!!

[@markwilson9927]

The two long studs go on the right front of the engine. They are longer in order to accommodate the air conditioning compressor mount. To give credit where credit is due, this info was provided by the Prez of VTR, Jack McGahey when we were looking at a newly rebuilt engine. I have rebuilt two Tr6 engines and had never seen that info anywhere. Nice to know smart people like Jack! TRMark Mark Wilson

[@RustyBeauties]

Wow, I’ve heard all kinds of suggestions where and and why these studs go, but yours is actually making sense. I never thought of that. Thank you..

[@dude36]

Super video. Loved the accuracy and method of cylinder measurement.

[@george6036]

Excellent excellent video!! Very well done too!

[@paulfanning7059]

I am very happy to see many rebuilds in detail, each one uncovers something new. I did enjoy the mood music though.

[@uweziegenbein3114]

Sorry Elin, I’m late watching the actual vids … great content! I follow your channel since nearly three years and from The beginning on your learning curve of detailing your content is outstanding! Thanks!!!

[@jamessimmons8352]

Love your explanations! Brings back many memories of my TR4 engine rebuild almost 50 years ago. ;-)

[@alexanderduncan4302]

.020” under ! Not over🔧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@kjeldlarsen912]

Great video thank you Elin

[@christopheclement62]

bravo monsieur , très bon travail de mesure , bonne continuation . respect !

[@davidberlanny3308]

That was an interesting strip down inspection and measurement of the key parts. To my eye the worst part looked to be the cam followers and cam, you have to wonder where that lost metal ended up, hopefully drained out of the sump with the dirty oil. Be interesting to hear your thoughts on reusing the bolts. I had a couple of fatigue problems with my old Spitfire. A broken stud axle, luckily happened at low speed as I came out of a petrol station (spot the Englishman!!). The other were the flywheel bolts. Would you believe it I got a call from the police in the middle of the night. My car engine was running and the car had been abandoned just off the kerbside. Someone had tried to steal it and in starting it up sheared the flywheel bolts!! I still have the stubshaft (in two parts of course), the flywheel got repaired under insurance which was lucky because I think it could have been me at the wheel quite soon if it hadn't been stolen ..... Hence my interest in reusing the bolts!! Good luck from Spain!! PS Great walk on part from Rusty!!

[@RustyBeauties]

Well, I am not reusing the bolts. To be honest I didn’t think of that, but after I read yours and some other comments I realized that it is a good idea to change them. Thanks for that. It is an interesting story about your spitfire. I can’t believe that once upon a time people were actually stealing these. I personally don’t remember when was the last time when I took the key off of my Spitfire. I won’t tell you where I keep it though 😂

[@davidjeffery2823]

Nice bit of detective work.

[@harpersisland]

I hope your machine shop is a bit quicker then mine in Vancouver. I dropped the head off last October got it back end of June, two weeks ago. I provided new valves, double springs, retainers and stem seals. The shop provided bronze guides, hardened seats and stem seals because they didn’t like mine. Three sets of seals later over 9 months it all came together. Some folks have said so quick!

[@jontg429]

That is ridiculous man, I mean how long does it take to build up a cylinder head?

[@harpersisland]

@@jontg429 aside from the bath breaking down and COVID disrupting the replacement parts supply chain, a fire in the shop that then brought the Fire Marshall in to order a few weeks of shutdown while changes were made, then clearing the backlog of corporate clients work caused by these issues and other delivery issues. One guy I bumped into who is rebuilding an Austin Healey as had the engine in the shop for over a year now and counting.

[@awalk5177]

I have never seen such difficulties as I have with removing the cylinder head from Triumph engines. I had similar issues with a Triumph 1200 Herald head and used an engine winch initially, but with the front wheels off the ground had to resort to Brass wedges. Having said that, whilst the gasket was blown at 90K miles the engine itself only needed a new gasket and went on for many years until the body fell apart.

[@sjmgo7]

As always, great content. Finally getting around to this engine rebuild series. Early head, with the smaller exhaust valves... ouch. If you are going to install new seats will you install the larger size exhaust valves? I thought II saw that both the intake and exhaust valves were bigger in the pre 73 heads, True? Just curious if you have your machinist cut a three angle valve job and if yes what angles?

[@peteredwards9147]

Fantastic

[@cheftush]

Yes, main bearing caps, depending on what manual you look at are 50-65 ft/lb

[@mrg4722]

Long studs are for engine lifting eyes. Excellent investigation, check the oil pump, some so called new pumps can be more worn than the old ones due to poor machining.

[@RustyBeauties]

Nope. There are separate locations foe thee lifting eyes. I will show them in the assembling video

[@jamcdona]

Hi Elin, what are your thoughts on the cam/lifter wear- do you think it was a poor quality cam set, or is the one in the video original to the car? In the 90's I remember discussion on 6-Pack digest about camshafts that wore out from new on the market, even if the ower paid attention to break in proceedures.

[@brentmclovin9332]

Interesting.

[@sportsmancraft1]

The long studs would be for lifting eyes on production line.

[@RustyBeauties]

I think Mark Wilson’s comment might be the correct answer.

[@davefloyd4172]

What do you do with cars that are complete ?

[@RustyBeauties]

Well, return them back to people who own them :) most of the cars you see on my channel are not mine. I used to work i. A shop where we had a few shop cars that we were restoring along with some customer’s cars. The 1966 Spitfire and the 1972. gT6 are mine and they are still with me

[@philtucker1224]

Elin, those main bearing journals may have been slightly overground for the +20 shells so maybe re measure those carefully..

[@RustyBeauties]

No, actually one is u under ground by .0004 one by .0002 and the other two are right on the spot. I double checked that

[@philtucker1224]

Elin, looking at the generally very good condition of the main reciprocating engine parts I would not have expected such a poor compression reading regardless of the smaller valves being used, as I saw no sign of exhaust blow-by around any of those valves. Subsequently (unless you did the reported test?) I think it would cast doubt on those poor readings….

[@RustyBeauties]

You are right, but judging by the poor assembling of the engine I can tell that the guy who assembled it didn’t know what they were doing. So maybe the timing was off too. I should have checked that. I always think of that after the engine is apart

[@williamlucas8793]

I noticed in your previous videos that you reuse existing journal and rod bolts without any issues. In this specific engine, shouldn’t new bolts be considered since they appear to have been previously over-torqued? Keep up the great work!

[@RustyBeauties]

I normally reuse the bolts, you are right, but in this case they were clearly overtorqued so I am getting a new set

[@timmarsh6754]

I’m intrigued about the emissions port on the head. You said it was an early head as the cast boss was not drilled. I have engine # CC81497 (probably around Spring 1971) and is has NO cast-in boss at all! I cannot be sure the head is original to the block as I don’t know it’s provenance, but it does indicate there are early heads (perhaps) without the boss, drilled or not drilled. Does that mean there are potentially three head types? Comments?

[@RustyBeauties]

Yeah, I am curious about that too. I have no idea though.

[@stevekincaid]

76 owner here. 80 psi doesn't seem terribly low for a late model (because EPA). Shave the head to 9.5:1 compression, put hardened exhaust rings in, replace that awful radiator fan with electric, and show the world what this engine can do.

[@RustyBeauties]

Well, even late engines with the lower compression ratio had at least 140-150psi. 80 is way too low. I am assuming those bad valves and maybe incorrect cam timing wee the reasons why the compression was so low. I am thinking about shaving the head a bit too. We will see. It is not my call though, I can only suggest that

[@stevekincaid]

@@RustyBeauties I am not an expert. My experience is with a total of 1 engine ever but... I shaved my head very conservatively and achieved only 120 psi on all 6 cyl. I've since shaved it again (to much more specific specs) and I'm hoping for 150 psi. I appreciate the correction. I'm eager to learn.

[@gordonblank6845]

👍🏻 🎅

[@iceman9678]

That's a bummer.....but whatever!

[@MikeAarset]

Ah! You are such the Sherlock Holmes.

[@aileenconnett7146]

Where is the overdrive ? If that is a tr6 engine it should have an overdrive unit on the gearbox

[@RustyBeauties]

Not all TR6 came with an overdrive. It was an option.

[@pbysome]

20 under? Bores would be over.

[@RustyBeauties]

Hmm, when did I say “under”, I thought I said it right, cylinders go over and shafts go under. I might have missed it somewhere, sorry

[@pbysome]

@@RustyBeauties a slip of the tongue, I'm sorry I commented it matters not.

[@pbysome]

@@RustyBeauties you said the crank journals where 20 over not the bores, my post is vague, sorry.