Trolling motor PWM - part 3, wiring diagram

[@ChrisPollard]

Why has nobody else figured out that you don't have to take the trolling motor apart (and void the warranty!) to rig this up? I'm going to give this a shot with a 40lb Endura C2 once my PWM and battery arrive next week. Brilliant job!

[@Intimidator82]

Thank you, and appreciate it. It's super easy to hook up and easy to dial it right down to the correct speed.

[@kwikflikzyakadventures3795]

Watched all 3 vids, great job, great explanation mate, well presented, cheers from Aussie.

[@danhill3037]

Excellent series, Josh. Many thanks!

[@brett2070]

Hi Josh,cheers mate thx heaps for the diagram,,,,,,what a great idea,,legend take care friend

[@michaelpierce1553]

Hey Josh, all 3 are great videos . To the point and no loud music!. Thanks for telling us what size wire to use. I was thinking 8awg but you confirmed it for us. Thanks again ,and again Great Videos!

[@Intimidator82]

In a case like this I always like to err on the safe side. With too small of wire it could melt and possibly cause a fire. The little extra weight and cost is worth the piece of mind. Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it

[@SaskFisher]

Informative! Good video

[@gankheryOfficial15]

Amazing Vidio 👍

[@Intimidator82]

Thank you. I am just trying to help others so you aren't struggling like myself working on a setup

[@comanfamily3961]

Thanks, Josh for the presentation! Where on the wiring diagram do I add the 'fan switch' that you showed in Part 1?

[@Intimidator82]

I wired the fan switch into the positive side of the fan power wires. You could do the positive or negative side, doesn't really matter, so long as you interrupt the current flow.

[@sylbean]

hi thanks for tant video question if you have a 15 amps fuse but we know if you go fast that amp will go 40 or more so the fuse will bost no ?

[@Intimidator82]

Yes, you need to run at least a 40 amp fuse for a 40 lb thrust trolling motor.

[@bobdent572]

So i may be jumping the gun because I haven’t watched this video yet, but am i right in thinking that if the pwm were to burn out for watever reason it would be fairly simple to on the water just connect the terminals directly to the battery and just use the tiller handle like normal.

[@Intimidator82]

The spades that I used were for a car stereo amplifier. They are only about 3/8" wide. I don't think they would fit on a battery around the studs. You could put both the terminals together in the PWM on the battery side, essentially doubling up the positive and negative terminals. I have 2 small bolts with washers and nuts in my canoe kit to use for just such an emergency. I then slide fuel line over the connection so it doesn't contact anything and short out.

[@bobdent572]

Thanks for the quick reply yea it makes sense i may add a few quick connect terminals but i like that if you have an issue on the water, it wont be a day ruiner with the trolling motor head on and still having control of speeds

[@retiredoldsarge5938]

I have been searching your videos and cannot find the needed Parts List or Links for the parts you used. Do you have the links for things used to make your build with? Other then that your videos are really good on the PWM and the review of it.

[@Intimidator82]

PWM controller: www.amazon.com/10V-50V-Controller-Reversible-Switch-Display/dp/B07Y9ZPV3F/ref=mp_s_a_1_41?crid=2CJGCG8ZYZA07&keywords=12v+50+amp+pwm+controller&qid=1658622732&sprefix=12v+50+amp+pwm+controller%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-41 12 volt fan: www.amazon.com/Security-01-Brushless-Bearing-Cooling-AB4010M12/dp/B01CZFGO7U/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?crid=37DC4F2ET9AHP&keywords=12v+40x40+fan&qid=1658622975&sprefix=12v+40x40+fan%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-18 8 Ga wire: www.amazon.com/GearIT-Gauge-Each-Copper-Aluminum/dp/B09ND1LTM5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2PA51HD8YFZRK&keywords=8ga+wire&qid=1658623053&sprefix=8ga+wire%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFRzlDTDJDSEdGUjAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNjY4MDg1TExHVkk2MFpaUjQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg1ODM4MjNEMldFNDREREY2U1gmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== 8ga wire ends: www.amazon.com/Scosche-X2BS8-4-Gauge-Spade-Terminals/dp/B07BGLN2GH/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1GKUVTPMKT7JG&keywords=8ga+wire+spade+ring+terminals&qid=1658623148&sprefix=8ga+wire+spade+ring+terminals%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-5

[@jamesroach3977]

How much longer does the battery last now compared to before the pwm?

[@Intimidator82]

I haven't really tested this to give a clear answer. I mainly got the PWM so I was able to dial my speed right down while trolling. First speed was way to fast for walleye

[@F-N-C]

Great info. So I just bought a PWM and am wondering do I just hook up the power cables from the trolling motor that usually goes to the battery to the PWM and from the PWM run power cables to the battery and thats it? thank you

[@Intimidator82]

Yup, that's it. I would put a fuse in the battery cable to the PWM somewhere just in case, to protect everything

[@jonnylittle6487]

Do you run the fish finder off the same battery? How do you wire in both?

[@Intimidator82]

Yes I do. The fish finder is hooked directly to the battery posts. I did it this way to keep the wire clutter down at the PWM. But if you wanted to, you could tie in your fish finder to the PWM at the power wires coming from the battery. The fish finder needs very little amperage to run, but still needs a constant 12v to operate.

[@kalcorn8]

Hi Josh, once again you've outdone yourself! Minnkota recommends 10awg size wire for my 30 lb thrust motor. Do you recommend 8awg still for all the wire connections? Also is marine grade wire needed or simply overkill?

[@Intimidator82]

To be honest the wire gauge does make a difference. I have run larger, I think 6 GA and the trolling motor goes faster on the top end. As for the Marine wire, I wouldn't really know. If the wire is going to be sitting outside in the elements it wouldn't be a bad idea. I just used what I had laying around from other jobs.

[@brianwestmoreland3836]

I see all these videos, but how do I tear down my trolling motor to connect all this

[@Intimidator82]

Just attach it to the existing leads that are hanging out of the top where you would normally attach to the battery. The trolling motor leads from factory sometimes came with eyelets or clamps on them, take these off and put on a forked spade to fit into the PWM.

[@brianwestmoreland3836]

@@Intimidator82 so the red and black to the postive negative on the PWM and the yellow and white to the other end of the PWM? I see you ahve some diagrams are they in detail?

[@jacksonloescher3166]

thanks for the Vid, Just wondering do you have to do anything with the hand controller in the trolling motor, because i realize that the terminals for the trolling motor connect straight to the 5 forward 2 reverse controller in the trolling motor, thanks!

[@Intimidator82]

Yes. All you need to do is turn the handle to max speed, which in your case and mine, it's forward 5. This eliminates all the resistor coils in the motor and allows the current to flow through unrestricted in the proper direction. I leave mine in neutral while I hook up the box to the battery, then turn the box on to 0, then turn the motor to 5. I don't want an accident if the prop were to turn while hooking the box or motor to the battery. The forward and reverse is controlled through the box with a toggle switch, no need to touch the motor handle other than to steer. Hope this answers your question. If not, send another question, glad to answer it to the best of my ability

[@jacksonloescher3166]

Perfect, just what I wanted to know, thanks

[@SpikeSCFC]

@@Intimidator82 hi there does this apply to trolling motors which have the two buttons( speed 1/2 and forward and reverse switch) thanks

[@kenreilley1434]

Thanks for all the info, Josh, it's been very helpful in deciding whether or not to get a PWM and how to mount it... that fan idea was particularly welcome. It's been a while since you posted parts 1 & 2... any issues with the PWM so far? I'm asking because I'm seeing some other KZbin PWM users complaining that their units a burning up after a few uses, switches / potentiometers going bad, etc., but I'm not at all certain it isn't user error. The quality of your work is what I'd want to emulate, so if the unit is still working out for you that's good enough for me. Thanks again!

[@Intimidator82]

Yeah my unit has been good. I had it out the other week and ran it 6 hours straight without shutting it off. I think in my opinion that the fan keeps it from burning up because they do get warm to the touch.

[@bloodsweatnbass8918]

So how do you wire in the forward and reverse switch?

[@Intimidator82]

The switch already came wired up with the PWM controller. All I did was put the fan onto it on the positive and negative inputs on the PWM board

[@bloodsweatnbass8918]

@@Intimidator82 Awesome thanks 🙏🏾

[@destineeone]

If I needed to connect a cutoff switch, how would I wire it in this set up?

[@Intimidator82]

I would put it in the positive or the negative cable close to the battery. Most people will put it in the positive, but either works.

[@jimmypalmisano9116]

Can I blow out my motor if I use a 18 volt batteries for a 12 volt trawling motor

[@Intimidator82]

Can't honestly answer that. But if it was me, I wouldn't. The PWM still pulses the full 12 volts, just at various frequencies to change the amount of current flow that gets to the motor. I'd stick to a 12 volt battery to be safe

[@dustinmsellers]

I have like 4-5 wires coming out of my motor, which 2 do I hook up

[@Intimidator82]

Is it a 24 volt trolling motor? Here is a link to a website that runs through what wires are power and ground for each setup. anchor.travel/why-does-my-trolling-motor-have-4-wires/