TRONXY CRUX 1 - Tiny $179 3D Printer

[@AndrewAHayes]

I would like to a comparison of this machine against the Kingroon cantilever machine!

[@TripodsGarage]

Would be a great comparison! I will need to get a Kingroon.

[@lemontwist63]

They do have a magnetic spring steel PEI bed option for $10 more. Getting one so we'll see how that is.

[@lemontwist63]

The way they have you set up the cura profile, it draws the purge line at x=1. Since the bed is exactly the build size, 1 is right on the edge. You can fix it by changing the start gcode to draw the line at x=3 or more (more to miss the clamps if you have the glass bed)

[@zoompyreichman7686]

@@lemontwist63 I have just ordered one and I have no idea what you just said 😂. Hopefully its easier than it sounds

[@lemontwist63]

@@zoompyreichman7686 no worries. a simple edit in cura if you end up printing a line right at/off the left edge of the build plate. easy fix. This printer has been super reliable for me.

[@MrDroddo]

Thanks you for the great video. Oddly enough you are the only "mainstream" reviewer that had no issues with ringing. I wonder if there Is a bit of lottery with this printer. Quality wise this seems in line with the Ender 2 pro.

[@B1GJano]

Nice video! this is an interesting little printer. Definitly has potential. Especially with a lot of the cantilever mini style printer making a resurgence lately in the market

[@Lurker1222]

What person working at Tronxy made a cure profile for a direct drive 3D printer and set it at 8mm retraction? You gotta wonder if they just copied it from a manual from another printer they make. That's pretty bad..

[@benthillerup]

Can you please tell me the size of the base of the printer? (The printer footprint) And also what speed and layerheight the models were printed at?😊

[@alejandrovillacamparios4196]

Hey! Great video. Can you tell me how much space does it need to go with the bed from the very front to the end of its path? I have a quite small table and I don't know if it'll fit. Thank you very much!!

[@TripodsGarage]

Let me see if I can get you that measurement. My daughter’s boyfriend is currently using it. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@chase6428]

Why would tinnes connectors be worse than bare copper? Obviously a feral is the best way but im pretty damn sure tinned connectors are always better/safer than bare copper as the connector deforms the tinned wire as it is tightened by the screw, providing a pretty solid connection. Bare wires can fray as inserted and if not done propperly cause bad connections and shorts

[@TripodsGarage]

Hello Chase, I used to think the same way as you. This was until I took some courses on soldering, and became certified. Below is just one good article to review. There are plenty more. Hope this helps explain the reasoning. cdn.thomasnet.com/ccp/00142951/263810.pdf

[@chase6428]

@@TripodsGarage thanks for the info that makes sense, ill stop wasting my time

[@DeRock401]

Can you share your profile or whatever you made for cura?

[@dondy3d]

Hi, would you recommend this as a starter 3D printer? I am considering this for it's small footprint and seemingly acceptable print quality. I've been hearing of QA issues with machines, but I'm still leaning towards it.

[@natewho4366]

Anyone else having a problem with it not feeding the filament right when prints ???

[@Firstleaker]

Amazing that nobody commented on Sundries! I had to look it up. Pretty funny troll 😂😂 Sundries (singular sundry) may refer to: Miscellaneous small items, usually of no large value and too numerous to mention separately, such as toiletries

[@TripodsGarage]

I had to look it up also! People on Twitter thought my clip was funny, so I included it in the video!

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

1st take slide !!

[@TripodsGarage]

1st indeed!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

At that price plus a few minor upgrades, why would I care about the [redacted] kit (same volume) I have sitting in a box in the corner that still needs probably $200+ in hardware to complete. 😔

[@TripodsGarage]

After a getting the slicer nailed down, the prints were awesome! Just need to advertise that the build volume is a tad smaller. After slicing my own files, seeing the purge line going off the bed, and the nozzle crashing into the bed clips, it threw me off for a few seconds on why this was happening. There is another review out there that I just watched, that states the height is also off by a few millimeters. Just advertise it as a 170*170*170mm and call it a day. This machine has a lot of potential, and works great, I really enjoy using it. If people follow my profile, they will get amazing prints as well!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

@@TripodsGarage I think cleaning of the metal guides/wheels will be an issue. There's no room for much more than dust. Sacrifice a few mm in Z for a magnet and PEI; probably get near the 180 X/Y then.

[@graphguy]

ferrules? hahaha, no one does that in America... except you. Hahaha, and me now. I just ordered the crimper and 1000 of them - thanks for the advice.

[@marcbrillet6259]

Plz turn the autofocus on ! ;)

[@TripodsGarage]

It was on - Can only focus so fast

[@jesseburson]

Cura sucks. lol

[@ferrumignis]

No u.

[@jesseburson]

@@ferrumignis lol

[@omegadeepblue1407]

then what i use, orcaslicer?

[@ChibiKami]

on the pronunciantion of doraemon, you're not far off if you say doe-rye-mon

[@TripodsGarage]

Thanks! I was definitely struggling with it 😂😂

[@ChibiKami]

@@TripodsGarage no problem the trick with transliterated japanese is to remember there are no exceptions in pronunciation a is always ah, e is always eh, i is always ee, u is always oo, and o is always oh when combined you combine the sounds directly ai becomes eye ae is trickier, basically being ah-eh. I can't think of any English words offhand that use a similar phoneme, so handling it like ai usually works