Trouble Shooting Braun Lift

A discussion of the basics in Newmar Canyon Star model 3911 wheelchair lift micro switch and faults. Join me to discuss troubleshooting steps and electrical circuit design of the Braun wheelchair lift.
Manual Lift operation • HOW TO: Operate My Whe...

[@graffix]

Thank you for making this video - these are the things that good people do to help out the youtube community! I appreciate it!

[@spacejunkisforever6311]

Thank you for this. I was able to identify the problem. It was just that blue switch, which in my case was red.

[@FullLifeCrew]

That is cool they sent a tech on Saturday.

[@goodxrvn2053]

Great, glad you got your lift sorted. Thanks for watching.

[@user-yi6vd7xg1d]

Great video!! I found it very informative. I want to make the diagnostic tool you show at 10:45. If I had that it would be a big help to me servicing our wheelchair vans. I know the one end plugs into the molex, my question is what does the other end bolt on to? I see it has a ring on the end opposite the molex - I just need to know where it attaches. Thank you in advance 🙂

[@JamesTatePa]

Good video, just acquired a used 3911 and have already gotten stuck half way up while in a misting rain. Having someone lower the lift manually seemed to have fixed the problem so I am sure it was a microswitch problem somewhere. Would be nice when you are showing circuit breakers in battery compartment if you would show where the battery compartment is located. Haven't acquainted myself with all of the locations yet. Working on that as I go thru all of the compartments and clean them.

[@goodxrvn2053]

You might want to look at the gas springs that lift the ramp at the end of the ramp. If that ramp does not fully flip up, the lift will stop. The gas springs are a known weak spot that wear out quickly.

[@georgecurtis6463]

My lift is from possibly 2001. One royal pain and usually the reason for the lift not working is those micro switches. At least on my lift they are cheap, flimsy , and of course a royal pain to get to. I have replaced them and have replaced brushes on the gate motor. But again, most problems are those stupidly cheap micro switches, always having to replace them.

[@kevinsummers9449]

Great help for me thnx boss

[@goodxrvn2053]

Glad I could be a help!

[@SharonDavis5]

I have a braun century and the lift will not go down. Pendant has all lights but lift seems to have a short. Sometimes is will go down but most times it won’t. It also drifts by itself. Any insight would be helpful.

[@djsparkyy]

First thing I did when I got my van was to permanently jump power from the main post directly to the on/off switch, next was to remove the buzzer. Now I’m in the process of bypassing all the safety micro switches. I would not recommend this for a company that is transporting people, however I use mine for a utility lift, not to move people so I just want it to work no matter what

[@goodxrvn2053]

Just a thought on the topic of micro switches and safety. For those reading this thread that may be unfamiliar with all that power interrupt micro switches disable. These safety switches disable the Lift during specific configurations. Power interrupt switches interrupt power when lift door is closed, vehicle is in gear, and other configurations where you do not want to be able to activate the lift motors by choice or accidently. Have you ever sat on a remote by mistake and activated a system accidently?? Make sure you understand everything that is disabled when excluding micro switches. Also, you will have to turn off the Lift manually when it is stored to avoid battery drains and excessive light on hours. My 0.02. Happy Travels...

[@djsparkyy]

@@goodxrvn2053 I have a high top passenger van that was used as a school bus for disabled children, not a RV, so I leave my lift switch on the lift post, never have to worry about sitting on it. I bypass the safety because I use it to lift large bulky items that sometimes will press against the front plate stopping it from raising mid lift. I definitely have accidentally left the lift switch on a couple times and drained my battery. Thankfully I carry a jump pack with me as well as long jumper cables so it hasn't left me stranded yet. The next mod I'm going to do is to power the door ajar light that my van came equipped with from the lift power so that when I power on my lift the light will remind me to turn it back off.

[@kalebthompson4849]

How did you bypass the safety micro switches? I’m wanting to install one in a box truck

[@robertenriquez1106]

Cool video. I see you mentioned the interlock requirements. Must be in park. Engine off. Door Switch open. Do you also have to have the Parking Brake on in order to get power to the lift or is that not needed?

[@goodxrvn2053]

Thanks for watching. On our 2018 CS 3911, the parking brake does not need to be engaged to operate the lift. However, Newmar is known to change electrical safety items without notice from model to model/year to year.

[@Maples01]

Yeah, ground that garbage out, unneeded add ons that are destined to fail, BTW buy Ricon, Bruan is garbage, I hate that company after years of suffering with one they refused to fix, refused to replace parts on, and refused to order needed parts for. I have had 3 Ricon, one Bruan, the Bruan was the most trouble, once the tabs started pulling off the mother board, I was tired of soldering them back on, off to scrap it went. I have a wireless remote controlled Ricon, we did away with the guardian unit, I like my van running before entry, and if I need to line up my lift to a porch to enter a building, I can drive with it out, if you can't drive down the road without hitting the controls, you need not be driving, no safety stuff needed. Get a hydraulic lift with the least amount of safety crap, buy one off a bus, lose the add ons.

[@judo-drummerboy-tapout]

So the problem I'm having with my Braun list is when the left is all the way down and I go to store backup the door wants to close a quarter inch and then nothing will work. I get back inside jacket up by hand and it seems to reset it for a little bit and it will work for a little bit and then it will automatically start doing it again. So when the list down and I go to Stow it up as soon as I hit the up button the door closes about 1/4 inch

[@goodxrvn2053]

Thank you for watching. Is the safety ramp that folds down when lift has reached the ground returning to the upright position when the lift is raised above the ground when stowing?? There is a safety switch that requires this safety ramp to be in the upright and locked position. The gas struts that power the retraction are a wear item that needs servicing every few years. They can be found online by part number at many Bus Parts suppliers.

[@davidposalski]

Hi. We just got a new to us 2019 Ventana 4311. The swing door isnt operating and is popping the inline fuse. Any ideas? Maybe the pneumatic pump? If so, where is it located? Frameward of the power bay?

[@goodxrvn2053]

If the door remains in place when you actuate the opening remote, check the lock. Can you open the lift door from the outside with the handle? If not, It may be locked or stuck not allowing the door to unlatch and open. If you do get the door opened manually, lubricate the lock arms and mechanism as best you can. Hope this helps. Joe

[@davidposalski]

@@goodxrvn2053 Thanks for responding. We pull the manual handle and it unlatches. Then by remote, a pump fills a pneumatic cylinder causing the door to swing open or shut. This is where the issue is. Pump doesnt run...and when fuse is replaced, it runs for a second and blows the 30a fuse

[@goodxrvn2053]

@@davidposalski There may be a limit switch that has become disconnected or has failed. Or the pump is failing trying to draw too many amps. If you can find a wiring diagram, look for the limit switches for the door system. If the setup is anything like a DutchStar the pump is located at the back of the short tray. The baggage tray underneath the lift door. You might call Newmar Customer Service for guidance.

[@Warren1814]

Excellent video... but the problem i'm having with my van lift is when i let the lift close the door by itself all the way. It won't open the door by itself. Like its to tight or something. what i have to do is get a bar and gently bump the door motor up a little bit. and then the door will open back up. Now when i close the door and stop it before it gets closed to tightly the door will open back up without any problems. Any idea what the problem could be? Some people think its the motor. I think it might be a micro switch but i have no idea where it is on the lift or how to get to it. My lift is one of the older ones with no lights on it at all.

[@goodxrvn2053]

This sounds like an adjustment or latch issue. First you might try to lubricate the door hinge and latches to insure smooth operation. Check for any binding of the door during its operation.

[@Warren1814]

@@goodxrvn2053 Thank you so much for taking the time to write me back. You just don't know how much i appreciate it. Not to many people take the time to write back either. Ok i sure will try lubricate the door hinges and check for binding too. Not sure what you mean about latches is because when my door opens and closes the door motors open them and they are the ones that hold the doors closed. They're no electric locks on these doors at all. If that is what you where talking about. Sorry i am kinda a newbie when it comes to these lifts, Also you made a great video here too. Not to many people explain how these lifts work.

[@thepope4970]

Thank you for the information, I have an older century that I have been trying to figure out. First off I got mine second hand no pins for all three of the safety circuits at the same time or do you have move a jumper wire to individual positions?

[@goodxrvn2053]

Thank you for watching. If your lift has a tag specifying the model, go to teh Braun suer manual website to get a wiring diagram. This will be very useful to determine how the lift operates.. www.braunability.com/us/en/commercial/support/manual-index.html

[@thepope4970]

@@goodxrvn2053 thanks for the response. I'll go to your link and find out if I have better luck than the one I've been to. It didn't have my model listed but I believe it was a sales site with limited support for new installations with basic troubleshooting for their current product line

[@TheMonster83]

Hi I have a Crow River wheelchair lift that folds out but wont go down and something keeps killing my van battery. Could it be from the lift? Any ideas on what might be wrong with it? or where I can get parts for it? Weren't Crow River wheelchair lifts made by BraunAbility? Max 750 Lbs. Model 7684 DL Serial #D8902112 Manufacturing date 2/24/89. The van is a 1989 Chevy G20. what are the micro switches and where are they located on the lift? Thanks.

[@goodxrvn2053]

I am not familiar with the Crow River lifts. In my opinion the best approach might be to find a wheelchair lift repair shop that is familiar with the brand to determine the fault. Regarding the battery drain, you can start at the fuse box. Shut everything electrical off, then find which fuses still have a draw with a voltmeter. Here is a guide www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

[@spencermurphy5796]

I have a Braun Century 2 lift that is getting battery voltage to the power post but the lift is not powered with the switch on. Could there be a microswitch problem ? Would making a diagnostic tool like yours be able to bypass the switches in order to let me know if the switches are the issue ?

[@goodxrvn2053]

If the switch that is interrupting your lifts power is an external safety (micro) switch, the tool that is depicted in the video will will open that circuit and allow the lift to power up. The lift installed in the our Canyon Star has three external safety switches, a lift door switch, a shift lever switch and an ignition switch. Each one of those switches can interrupt the power to the lift.

[@kbowles41]

There's also a 5 amp fuse in the pump box on a black wire about 3 inches from the back of the plug that sticks out the front where the white plug plugs in.

[@patlittle3103]

Can you tell me where the microswitch is for the Parking break, Park and the door? Maybe I have not looked hard enough but I feel like I have and still not able to locate them.

[@goodxrvn2053]

The micro switch used to disable lift if not in Park with the gear selector is on teh transmission where the shifter cable joins the shift lever on the transmission. The lift door switch is on the door frame, a small black rubber covered switch.

[@patlittle2537]

@@goodxrvn2053 Thank you . what about the parking break switch?

[@roncarlson7399]

Joe, North Trail tried to install the remote you recommended and ended up frying the remote circuit board. They sent me a new remote and I have my electrician here to attempt an install. I have a 22 Dutch Star 4311. Where did your guy pull the power for the remote from? Can the wiring from the remote circuit board be spliced into the dongle cable?

[@goodxrvn2053]

Sounds like you have a wonderful RV. :-) Sorry you are having difficulty with Lodar remote. Unfortunately this is not something the typical RV tech can manage in today's service centers. The Lodar wires should be spliced into the dongle circuit. Not sure which lift you have installed in the DS 4311. There are a number of different models but the remote should be wired to take advantage of the dongle circuitry. The dongle and the remote should be fully operational at the end of the install. This way you preserve all the built in safety circuits.

[@goodxrvn2053]

You can find me on www.RVFORUMS,Com

[@TheAntiYou22]

Good video. I bypassed the ignition and brake switch and have power. However my remote won't operate my Century 2. Upon inspection I see some disconnected molex on the internal part of the lift and some cut wires on the orange/red circuit. Is there any way to bypass the internal switches? Can I access these internal switches freely with the lift unfolded?

[@goodxrvn2053]

Thanks for watching. In my opinion you should not defeat internal limit switches or stop switches. Bad things can happen. Additionally you can jam the lift if the various parts are not coordinated. It might be best to get someone familiar with the lift's internal wiring to help you out.

[@patlittle2537]

TheAntiyou22. where did you find those switches? Im not trying to bypass them, Im trying to check to make sure they are working and if not replace them.

[@TheAntiYou22]

@@patlittle2537 there are various switches within the arms. Mostly in the joints. Of course the tower switches that can be adjusted that set the fold/lower. Also the pressure switch under the yellow plate. I could not find what was keeping my remote from not working, and as I bought my lift from a junk yard on eBay, I couldn't afford a tech to come look at it or find the right parts. So I simply wired the remote to the solenoids and bypassed everything. I mean like stated, not recommended but it became my only option

[@thomasknoth1241]

Any idea where to get that little connector to test the switches?

[@goodxrvn2053]

You might want to watch this kzbin.info/www/bejne/ana2iYGmoN-iZ9E