Troubleshooting Thermostat and Zone Valve My Heat One Zone Not Heating

I wake up and go upstairs to take a shower. As I walk past one thermostat I notice the temperature is colder than the set point. I therefore remove the t-stat from the wall. Afterwards I troubleshoot the thermostat. The thermostat works and closes the internal switch, which should activate the Zone valve. Next I go to the Zone valve. Verify power to the zone valve. Even attempt to bypass thermostat. The Zone valve motor is seized.

[@wh1zkidd]

I really like your videos - I work for Novar/Honeywell and seeing the mechanical side always helps and is really entertaining. Thanks again!

[@thehvachacker]

Thanks the mechanical side very rare gets dull. So many variables of failures.

[@Ted_E_Bear]

Another Great Hacker video, you are so awesome, so smart . I am always shocked by your knowledge !! Great video ....

[@beeemerg6504]

Smart man replaced all four at the same time .

[@Eddy63]

Good vid Hackster ...

[@harrypottar1000]

Stupid question, I have 5 zones labeled 1-5, how can I tell which zone goes to which thermostat. They are heat only two wire, I want to wire for 3 wire (c).

[@mariaeugeniacastaneda2053]

What kind of camera did you use for this video? Chest or head mount? I enjoy your videos. Thanks

[@katelynwalters3816]

I have a question, we have a oil burning radiant heating system and our zone 3 is Stuck on like 80 degrees and constantly burning our oil up so we manually shut it off. We changed the old thermostat out so I know it’s not the thermostat. Should we change the valve or could this be an electrical issue?

[@thehvachacker]

How comfortable are you with electricity. If you think it’s an electrical issue then disconnect be yellow power to your zone valve. If it continues where the handle on the zone valve moves with no resistance then the motor has died. End switch in valve also fails gets stuck and boiler runs non stop. If Honeywell those are the red wires. Replace the zone valve head covers the motor, gears, and end switch

[@williambo5989]

water leaking from zone valve is the switch bad. i seem to replace the zone valve every year. maybe i have to replace the whole valve and backing

[@valeriehofmann2615]

Is the valve a seperate purchase? Found the motor how do you replace the valve behind it?

[@mackenziegray2090]

If you get the exact replacement. You should be able to just take the cover off. Couple screws will remove the power head.

[@lifeistoshorttolookback]

I have a problem where the stats is disconnected and the boiler is still one.

[@tb808]

What are those boxes called. Is the power off while testing?

[@Smart-Towel-RG-400]

zone valves yes the power was on

[@reviewchannel6850]

was the motor or the termotat if it is wide open then the hot water shoud flow freely and you should have lots of heat

[@HVACToolReview]

Zone actuators - job security 😂

[@thehvachacker]

Usually it's the end switch yet everyone and then the motor seizes

[@jim8230]

I woke up this morning to a 58 degree house. Had to replace the thermocouple to keep the pilot lit. May be time for a new furnace...

[@thehvachacker]

I wouldn't replace your system over a 10 dollar part that last around 5 years. I bet that furnace is 25+ years old and almost never breaks down

[@jim8230]

@@thehvachacker I'm with you on the cost factor. But, I'll bet the furnace is from the mid 70's. I worry at times...lol.

[@sknight0391]

Looks like you're HVAC guy got there pretty quickly. Hopefully he didn't charge you an arm and a leg 😉😉😉

[@throttlebottle5906]

I bet he had to rush real fast to not get a cast iron skillet or rolling pin to the head lol

[@thehvachacker]

Sucks he was on call and just woke up. Woke up to two service calls and walked through a cooler area of my home. I was sleeping on a cot for almost 3 months. Most nights working on the new house till 3 am. Way too many projects to get ready to move and boiler acts up.

[@josephdaileysr.6552]

would like better explanation of what you are checking and closer video. But fair

[@bugsy74]

I replaced the zone valve and still have the same issue one zone heats up fine the other just doesn’t. I purged air out and everything not sure what the f is happening lol

[@valeriehofmann2615]

Did you figure it out? Same issue and wondering if we needed to replace the valve

[@bugsy74]

@@valeriehofmann2615 yup I needed to purge more

[@valeriehofmann2615]

Wow that seems excessive. We've done a lot already

[@bugsy74]

@@valeriehofmann2615 yea I purged a ton then did it again the next day and overfilled it. Extra water shot out the purge valve after that it worked fine

[@tb808]

Is that box called a zone valve?

[@edjovi3677]

bill rip those out and like u said tacos are the best !!!!! edbonjovi aka leak master miss u brother man see ya soon

[@throttlebottle5906]

i'd just slap new heads on, if the valves are not sticking or leaking..... that's the easy way out of course :)

[@thehvachacker]

I took the easiest way out till I find some time. I am taking a liking to that green taco sentry.

[@sharonwaterbury4978]

when I turn on zone one zone two comes on, when I turn on zone two zone one comes on. is it the wiring?

[@thehvachacker]

Sounds like it could be the wires for your zone valve motor, honeywell yellow wires. The wires should have separate thermostat wires for power and all zone valves share a common wire.

[@sharonwaterbury4978]

@@thehvachacker thank you

[@thehvachacker]

What did you find?

[@jeffcoolhd]

Hacker hurry back. Peace brother

[@derekjohnson7402]

Difficult to understand what you are doing or looking for? No explanation.

[@jeffreyjohn2037]

Hack wiring.

[@thehvachacker]

I plan on straightening it all out when I get a chance. Too many projects I'm working on at one time

[@Mike-yh8tv]

Nice when you can do it yourself!