True Position Tools Cabinet Hardware Jig

[@JW-mx3qg]

Yep, had mine for about 15+ years! Got laughter at from other sub carpenters that I needed “help from this toy”, until they figured out how much time less I spend with a lot more accuracy. Now guess who’s laughing.

[@LarryHaws]

Hi Ron! Thanks for the review of True Position's newest model. I bought the same device you pulled out from under your bench, probably about the same time that you did. Like you, I have used this jig on many, many kitchen projects over the years. The jig really does perform like no other! Unfortunately, my shop was broken into a while back and this tool was one of many stolen. Now I want to buy this new kit!

[@KarlCaillouet]

Been using one for years, always had to keep a close eye on it when onsite to keep it from growing legs. That said, that wood vice is teasing me to distraction, can hardly wait to July 28th! ;)

[@LVCID777]

Saw this video just in time. About to repaint and put new hardware on all my kitchen cabinets. Thanks!!

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

Glad I could help!

[@nealinator]

Good video review. Closer views as you adjust the tool would be helpful for those who have not used it before. I purchased this tool for a hardware install I had coming up and it made it very easy. Cut my time in half for sure.

[@Megatomslick1]

What is the brand of that vest…. Love it

[@jeffhorovitz8663]

I’m building my first ever cabinets. I just bought the true position jig and I’m looking forward to using it. I have two questions. I’m going to paint my drawer fronts and was wondering if I should drill the holes for the hardware first or after they are painted? My second question has to do with handle positioning. For the four middle drawers, I’m using shaker style drawer fronts. Do you usually put the hardware in the middle or on the top rail? Any help or advice is appreciated. Thank you, jeff.

[@carloseolvera8710]

For repetitive/standard work like cabinets, I use plywood with drilled holes and either stop blocks to fix position or a notch to show the middle, I then mark the holes and drill. Since I'm using scraps cost is 0 so if I ever I need a different one I just make it and it takes not much more than what it takes to set this up, and I can store for future reference. This one it's expensive but I see a lot of comments praising it, can you guys that have one explain if is so much better that justifies the invesment over a simple jig ?

[@Tyler1169]

Easy way to not drill the center hole when drilling doors. Step one: remove one of the adjustable guides Step Two: set the stop to the first hole offset (50mm in your case). the center whole is now your zero point and your first hole center Step three: set your other adjustable guide to your handle CC (96mm or 128mm are most common) This avoids math and an error that could creep in, just do all your doors first then your drawers as it will have to be reset to drill those anyway.

[@jakekooser]

Where's that apron from, Ron?

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

amzn.to/3z2Sc5D

[@acworthknothead]

Ron, I didn't notice a backer block when you drilled holes. How do you avoid a blowout on the inside of the drawer?

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

Sharp bit in solid wood gives a clean hole. Also the screw heads are big and flat which will cover any slight splintering. Finally, I will often use a small 18mm block as a backer. All in all, never been an issue.