Trying different hardness TPU filaments to see if we can print them on Ender style 3d printers!

[@Four-sc6gj]

Holy shit, that durometer unboxing 😂 I love that you left it in.

[@LostInTech3D]

I feel like people are going to mock me for it, but seriously...it was pretty weird being locked out of a box 😂

[@Sembazuru]

@@LostInTech3D I think the term "Precision" was more of the design goals of the meter and not the storage box... 🤣

[@Bishop0178]

@@LostInTech3D I could feel the frustration

[@jasonshallcross2741]

I bought some TPU and was scared to try it for months, then was suprised how well it printed on a bowden (E3Pro), since then I've found so many uses for it.

[@TheGameIsFunny]

Do you mind sharing what filament did you use and settings?

[@MrFamousguy13]

Bought and was scared lol then why buy it 😂 at least you actually printed it 🤣

[@patryk_004]

@@TheGameIsFunny The harder TPU (95A+) Are quite easy to print, but I would highly advise having filament dryer for quality reasons - when I printed with TPU out of the box, It already had too much moisture, terribly affecting print quality.

[@notyouraveragegoldenpotato]

Never used it before a week ago, had an idea to make something and decided to give it a try. It was cake. Honestly. And was able to print WELL at much higher speeds than they say. Basically printed it my normal speeds. Super cool stufd

[@Four-sc6gj]

I finally got my printer back running, had to undo my upgraded board after a failure… back to stock E3 pro. I’m about to give this TPU a shot for the first time, gotta rewatch you older TPU vids now. Seriously, thanks so much for doing all this. Can honestly say I would have never had the motivation to try flexible without ya bro.

[@LostInTech3D]

make sure to pick up the profiles off the website 👍

[@natemiller6389]

blue screen by chance? im trying to fix that on my new Ender 5 pro lol only a week old an it pooped.

[@LordHonkInc]

I tried flexibles (just a generic TPU) for the first time on my Ender3 after watching your last two videos, and I was surprised how little problems I had with it. Granted, I've only done relatively small prints (

[@LostInTech3D]

I'm sure a lot of horror stories come from the zero retraction theory which is why I'm so vocal about it :)

[@rmdcade1717]

I was worried about trying TPU on my CR-10, but the first video in this series gave me the confidence to print it easily with slicer settings alone, no need for hardware upgrades. I had great results. Looking forward to more info.

[@SzabolcsCzeh]

Hi The most important setting is, to using a 0.8 or 0.6 mm nozzle. With 0.8mm hotend you can print the softest tpu-s.

[@properprinting]

Nice video, very informative too! I just entered the realm of flexible filaments and KZbin's suggestion was spot on!

[@janoshorvath9430]

First trials with normal 95A transparent TPU and my biggest lesson was to decrease temp to the minimum. That decreased the amount of bubbles a much and made it look much better!

[@warriorcast8567]

so, i once had some soft TPU that i think was around 45A, and all i did was increase the flow rate up to 400% and slow the print speed really down. it worker extremely well

[@DougDingus]

You may also want to understand how the filament is colored. There are dyes and powders. The pigment load has a significant impact on how a TPU will flow. I prefer to test on natural first, then work through colors. Dyes have a lower impact than powders do. Dyes increase stringiness and powders will reduce adhesion and build more pressure. There is a lot more to say, but the main thing I wanted to share was powders vs dyes and how testing can best be done. There is also part detail. Printing a test cube or pillow may yield good outcomes on a bowden system. Add a hole, or sharp corner and suddenly the print head movement ends up out of sync with the filament flow. For testing, it is good to start with low complexity shapes, then add features to understand filament limits and what that can mean for TPU. Great video.

[@Sembazuru]

My first reaction is "good luck getting the manufacturers to openly disclaim the type of colerants used. (I have enough trouble getting the empty spool weight from them so I can weigh a partial spool and know how much filament I have left.) Has your experience been different than my expectations?

[@DougDingus]

@@Sembazuru Agreed. The important thing is to know settings apply to similar pigment scenarios. For example, a natural TPU will run differently than black, and that will run differently when compared to red...

[@Dystrackshun]

That case has some serious hardness

[@LostInTech3D]

I don't think I've ever been beaten by a case before!

[@Dystrackshun]

I guess I can't call you Poirot, then

[@LostInTech3D]

I see what you did there 🔍

[@driversteve9345]

I have an Ender3 Pro with a direct drive upgrade and I found that I can print OVERTURE 95A TPU flexible at 40mm/s if I set the nozzle temp to the top temp of 260°C vs setting it at 220°C with top speed of 20mm/s before jamming up. I believe that the faster you go, the higher your nozzle temp should be to keep that back pressure from building up due to the nozzle not being able to keep up with the speed of melting the filament.

[@workingTchr]

Totally love it. 3D printing meets Monty Python. Educated and entertained (not necessarily in that order) simultaneously. There's nothing like the original English. Muchas gracias, amigo.

[@alimmomin15]

Im using a Hatchbox's TPU filament on an Ender 3 Pro. Ive only upgraded the stock drive feed extruder to the red aluminum single gear drive feed extruder. My settings are 30m/s, 230 degree nozzle, 50 degree bed, no Z retraction. On the machine, flow of 125, fan off, and run at 80% speed. For some reason I get great detailed prints. You can tune is as necessary but basically I'm going for high temps and slow speeds. When tuned right you don't cause a backup in the Bowden tube since the slight pressure build up from the elastic keeps a steady flow through the hot nozzle

[@SiliconExarch]

I was hesitant about buying some 90A reflect-o-lay for my Ender 3 V2 but after seeing this video I think I'll give it a go!

[@lion7718]

I thought about printing with TPU before but never did it. Your last video made me decide to do it and I've done some pretty good work. Thanks for the profiles.

[@daze8410]

You are really testing the hardness of the extruded material vs the material. So the results are a great comparative result for that specific set up. It'd make more sense to weigh each filament, separate into hi temp silicone trays, and heat for a specific time and temperature.

[@LostInTech3D]

that reminds me, I need an accurate scale for some other stuff. Consumer scales are...not great.

[@GreenAppelPie]

I’ve found the stock E3V2 setup to be pretty good with TPU. It one of those those thing that can be easily overthought

[@shadowcard6923]

TPU will test softer if there are more voids in the material, the low test likely means it’s under extruding leading to an under test. It’s also why models printed with lower infill strength with TPU increases flex

[@JBMetalShop]

I think the biggest benefit for TPU would be compression fittings for the Bowden tube, to keep the tube from moving when retracting, and an extruded with very little room for the filament to go (other than into the tube)

[@jaro6985]

PTFE is just so damn slippery though, you really need something sharp that can bite in. But maybe an internal barb and external TPU fitting? But at that point just get the ones alexkenis recommended.

[@FAB1150]

Glad that you're steadily getting more recognition, as you deserve!

[@LostInTech3D]

thanks! getting there :)

[@vejl]

My recommendation is to use the same speed for infill, inner and other layer. This gives the same pressure all the time. I use no retraction, but high travel speeds. I use bowdentuben setup, and straight gear, and a custom extruder design. I could share it if you want to test it.

[@8azk3ibsi]

Nice videos, thanks for making them. I use a lot of flexibles for printing prosthetics. I’m a big fan of The Fiberlogy FiberFlex 40D lineup. Print quality and ease are both excellent. Biggest takeaway I have of that compared to other TPUs is that it feels more like rubber whereas others feel more like plastic. Just in general, TPUs vary a ton in feel and to some extent function along with it.

[@LostInTech3D]

Agreed - I need to source some other 40/30D to compare with fiberflex, I suspect they wouldn't behave as well with the bowden but who knows, I guess I will eventually get to try!

[@8azk3ibsi]

@@LostInTech3D Recreus Filaflex feels the most similar to FiberFlex from what I’ve tried.

[@juergenjaeger5814]

The Fiberlogy Filament is awesome. Also use PETG and PLA from this brand! Best Filament I have used so far.

[@johnathon007]

A light oiling of the first couple feet of filament with vegetable oil makes a huge difference in bowden tube friction. Just make sure the oil you use burns off at a temp below your hotend temp.

[@OllieTownsendIII]

I don't believe I have ever subscribed to someone before just because of their captioning, but congrats! Now I have to rewatch this video again and actually listen to you and not laugh at your captioning jokes. By the way, yes it was a spider!

[@RegularOldDan]

I've loved flexibles ever since I tried 95A on my old bowden-based printer nearly 6 years ago. The poorly-constrained filament path meant I had to babysit the first few layers (I would sometimes release the pressure by opening the extruder a tad) but once it got to the third layer or so, I generally had good luck. I've gone down to 82A without issue on my Prusa... now I wonder, do I dare try 70A?

[@LostInTech3D]

Absolutely fine on a DD. The key is to go a bit hotter than usual (I was doing 230 I think) and overextrude by about 30% (depending how grippy the filament/extruder is. The thing where I cut the block in half was actually a good diagnostic to see whether 100% infill was actually 100%. 60D is a bit more challenge I believe, but I haven't acquired any yet.

[@ArmyOfThree1000]

I love all you test videos

[@LostInTech3D]

thanks! 👍🙂

[@ArmyOfThree1000]

@@LostInTech3D going to pick up myself a roll of mattflex later today

[@dtibor5903]

You can print any flexible but you need to keep the pressure constant during print, which you can do by: - absolutely constant low speed 20-30mm/s (cura cheats a lot in this regard) - high acceleration what the machine can do (Ender 3v2), no S-curve acceleration. Jerk/cornering speed 10-15mm/s - a lot of retraction (10-15mm) - you need to lube the bowden tube, i use PTFE spray - dual gear is nice to have, lowest pretension (no yellow springs, they push way too hard) - volcano hotend helps a lot with speed, I can print 40mm/s with the hard tpu - you should experiment with 100% filled cubes to find the optimal flow

[@JB-yu1vv]

Bowden is really underrated, guess because it's popular on cheap printers people might think that it is only for simple stuff. Printed some 82A on a basic Steve and it went really well. I've also noticed the different texture of TPUs, 3dJake's (95A) and extrudr's (98A) are shiny like normal filament, the one from recreus (82A) is more rough. Maybe it's because of the flexibility which makes it easier to produce it that way, dunno

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah it's a bit of a mystery isn't it. I guess maybe if I ever get to speak to the manufacturer(s) I would ask them why they make it rougher than cheap 95A stuff.

[@cleanroomwizard2356]

@@LostInTech3D I think the roughness is designed to reduce the friction in the tube. If you ever get a smooth filament of the softer materials, the sticking in the tube can be crazy.

[@Super-650]

I was really pleased with the TPU mouse mat I printed, until I found laser/optical mice read the layer lines and go scooting off at a tangent. But I'm equally pleased with the table mat I'm using it for. I'm chalking this up as a win :)

[@LostInTech3D]

Haha that's weird, but worth knowing!

[@gsdtdeaux7]

Bruh! I literally laughed out loud when you tried to open that box! We got the same kind of luck. The small things always put up a fight lol

[@petrokemikal]

100% agree.. I got pissed off of the stringing with no retractions printing tpu, until one day I said screw it I'm turning on retractions to see what happens.. Absolutely nothing abnormal happened, I just lowered the retraction speed a bit and all my prints since have been not only stringing free, they also are 50% better prints in terms of layer adhesion, overhangs and just finish... The key is just to accept that you have to print slower.. I don't go above 30mm/s and have had flawless tpu prints.. The only printer upgrades I have is a dual gear extruder, Its still bowden.. and upgraded the bowden cable.. That's it..

[@MotoRich900]

Fantastic video, love your humour, very informative!

[@munkyrocker]

Your captions are hilarious. Nice 😂😂

[@paulradford4100]

A Capricorn tube is probably the very 1st upgrade anyone with a 3d printer should make. They do help, can handle temps better (without cooking and producing noxious fumes) and they're a super cheap upgrade. There's no good reason not to fit one.. Tpu95a is actually quite solid and won't be really that flexible unless you use lower infill settings. The hardness of the tpu95a really lends itself to beginners wanting to print something different from pla, without too many changes to settings - z offset being important - don't squish tpu like pla (it doesn't like it). After that, it's just setting retractions using a retraction tower print and slowing the machine slightly to help with the flow. Simples.. I started with bowden and yes, 95a prints perfectly well, though it is "advised" to switch to Direct drive if this is what you will commonly be printing, especially so for the softer, more flexible materials. Good video, thanks, and keep posting..

[@playmoth]

The Capricorn tube is made out of PTFE and it does act like normal PTFE over 230 C, the Capricorn do actually put out fumes at 230+ C and I think it’s a scam

[@dbackscott]

I love printing 95A TPU on my Ender 3 clone. However, I’d love to get my hands on a stiffer TPU material (for the toughness that PLA seems to lack).

[@muatok9904]

Seen another youtuber experiment with printing extra soft tpu using pellet extruders with decent results as the feed screw just forces it though without any of the issues soft filament would have

[@LostInTech3D]

Do you remember who it was?

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

Extruder makes a huge difference... I have a biqu h2 extruder which i once accidentally printed tpu using my 100mm/s petg profile...it printed really well for 30 min😃...until it jammed - meanwhile I tried printing tpu with my bmg clone using tpu stock tpu settings and it got wrapped around the gears in 5 minutes

[@LostInTech3D]

BMG clones are barely better than the open creality type extruder...they're just cheap, very cheap, so we put up with them!

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

@@LostInTech3D I love myne for rigid direct drive- great torque and only 8bucks on ebay...but yes they are probably the worst for TPU...crazy high torque and lack of filiment constraint makes it worse than a1:1ungeared extruder... atleast1:1 gears will slip on the filiment-but the bmg clone will continue pushing filiment- it don't give a damn

[@laughsandwich3842]

i absolutely lost it when you struggles to open the case....very subtle comedy gold tbh..cant script it if you wanted to lol

[@chrissavage5966]

Very recently tried some TPU for the first time on a mildly improved E3. MicroSwiss hot end, Capricorn tubing and a cheap but apparently effective dual gear extruder that looks a lot like the one shown here. Have to say, results are way better than I expected them to be. Only tried Sunlu so far but that Mattflex 40D looks worth a try. Love the humor by the way :) And thank you for this.

[@yearls]

And here I thought I would have to upgrade to Direct Drive to print with TPU.. Omg, you just saved me money, I have several models I'd love to try in TPU, now just gotta get myself a colour I like. :D Thanks, this was very educational. :D

[@LostInTech3D]

you are welcome, and bright colours are definitely where it's at :)

[@jack0cat]

I made me some build plate spacers to replace the springs on my cr10’s I have to say that they are even better than the silicone spacers. 19mm tall with a 6mm hole through the part 15mm in diameter Grid infill at 0.5% having one infill line going straight across the part. 2 walls 2 bottom layers and 4 top layers Using Sunlu TPU 95 shore 20mmps print speed “2mm retraction” At 45mmps Just in case you wanted to have a go at it.

[@roi9875]

Have you ever tried adding a small reservoir of canola oil before the filament enters the nozzle? This helped me print silk pla, not sure how well it would work with more flexible plastics or a bowden extruder.

[@LostInTech3D]

I'm not sure by what mechanism oil helps, I've heard people suggest it but it's not something I like the idea of.

[@philippeholthuizen]

Had me laughing at the unboxing, so recognizable. Thanks for another great video!

[@wbeel]

I love your videos, voice and easter eggs in the subtitles! Can I give some small feedback? When watching with subtitles on mobile, I can't see the white text you put at the bottom at the screen... (for example when you were testing the shore ratings)

[@LostInTech3D]

Noted 👍

[@trekgod3]

I print esun tpu on my mostly stock ender 3 using CHEP'S tpu profile.

[@Dave-wv9vc]

I wonder if the discrepancy in the Shore 78A sample was because of small gaps between the layer lines & print lines. Could also possibly be moisture in the filament boiling off during printing and changing the material density.

[@LostInTech3D]

It's 70A, in the end the discrepancy was down to about 2 units I think, it was just a flow rate issue. But yeah any air gaps and it changes the results.

[@ebptube]

I printed out some vibration dampers for my heat pump using 95D. They came out fine and spongy at room temperature but when outside in the coldness they became hard and conducted vibrations in an undesirable manner. So The A parameter must be tested at a specific temperature, I think. Is it "room temperature"? I would like to se a chart of TPU-softness and temperature!

[@theeddies]

Great content. Nice to see someone else buying a Shore durometer and doing some testing (I bought an old one with a leather box, lol that was funny). I don't know whether you saw my ongoing series of making functional prints (gaskets, etc) with TPU. I have been using my direct drive Sovol exclusively which ties it up. This makes me want to try it on my Ender, thanks for the settings.

[@LostInTech3D]

I will check that out !

[@jamiemacdonald436]

I've been printing with Overture black TPU on my Ender 3 V2 neo with very good results, even at 40mm/s. I haven't really tweaked the generic profile all that much other than bumping the print speed up, and increasing the bed temp and extruder temp to the max listed on the filament label. Guess I'm just getting lucky or the material is very forgiving for some reason.

[@Flying0Dismount]

One might observe that the D probe would be more appropriate for A probing... 😝

[@SallyBerry9]

After watching your first video on TPU, I bought some to use on my (mostly) stock ender 3. And after a few calibrations I managed to print at the same speed as I do my draft PLAs (90mms infill, 60mms walls) and got a very similar result with some quirks but fine for drafts. I wonder how far I could push something even softer

[@SallyBerry9]

Yes, I would like a seven minute montage

[@gold-junge91]

softest that i print was SHore 50A with direct drive with bowden on anycubic i3 stock 80A

[@2iinfinite]

The googly eyes is the only upgrade I have made on my ender3… besides klipper 🤪 Also when I have successfully printed tpu ive used pla profiles on cura with the speeds on 60mm/s travel, and 30mm/s walls. with mixed results on temps, ill print lower than recommended at ~215*c but have printed lower but also have printed higher

[@LostInTech3D]

googly eyes is the only upgrade you need 😂👍 TPU is fine at 215, that's actually my standard temperature

[@nathanblanchard8897]

Try some CF TPU next :) I think Innovafil sells some!

[@DouglasFish]

Dude, I love your videos

[@MatthiasNyberg]

I'm looking for a (1) cheap TPU that is (2) available in many different colors and (3) that is soft enough to be a bit rubbery, but (4) that is hard enough not to bend much, and (5) can be used in a fairly affordable 3D printer. Which one should I look for that matches all of the 5 requirements above? Thanks!

[@Be3Al2]

can you make another video for testing different hardness TPU filaments for the Prusa Mini Plus please.?

[@LostInTech3D]

I dont have a prusa mini, but it's a bowden system so you are almost certainly going to get the same level of performance as the bowden printers in this video, i.e. 40D will work, and 85A upwards will probably work, but 95A will be most dependable.

[@Be3Al2]

@@LostInTech3D thank you for you reply back :)

[@exe163]

Love your video series on tpu . Any chance that you can upload the torture test file so I can play with and try to reproduce the results?

[@LostInTech3D]

here you go www.printables.com/model/229055-the-tpu-stringing-test-i-use

[@kevinskater13]

I'm sure you've learned this by now, but the durometer you purchased tends to be highly inaccurate and will vary widely from higher end durometer gauges, such as ones manufactured by Rex Gauge. We had a customer claiming our parts we provided to him were out of spec. Turns out he was using a similar durometer gauge purchased for around $20 on amazon with no calibration certificate and no verification on his end that the durometer gauge worked correctly in the first place.

[@IDCrish]

steppers 2!! great job

[@LostInTech3D]

It's coming! Don't worry! It's gonna be good too, assuming I don't break either the oscilloscope or a printer in the process 😂😅

[@sierraecho884]

Been printing TPU with my Ender 2 when it came out xD Just restrict the filament path and go slow thats it.

[@NoGutsNoGophers0789]

As a Subtitle user, I like your spiders. They showed up great, as did the webs, Anyway...

[@themountain59]

Very nice review👍

[@LostInTech3D]

Thank you 👍

[@stefanguiton]

great videos as always

[@3sotErik]

Another great video. Thank you!

[@Hypern0va]

People are talking about making some creative stuff, prosthetics etc. I’m just wondering if you could make a flesh light with it

[@LostInTech3D]

I think it's less about whether you can, and more about whether you should.

[@Hypern0va]

@@LostInTech3D :)

[@Sembazuru]

I wonder, did you do any tuning of linear advance for your profiles? I ask bacause LA is supposed to help cope with print head pressure at the start and end of extruding each line, and you made a big point that controlling pressure is has a bigger end result than controlling speed alone. (Granted, speed is one aspect of how you control pressure...)

[@LostInTech3D]

Well... cura 5...but that's a story for another video

[@Sembazuru]

@@LostInTech3D Why would the slicer have anything to do with it? LA is a firmware feature that is activated with M900 Knnn. Now if your printers' firmwares doesn't have support for linear advance (or similar feature). Marlin does (or should, it might be able to be turned off at compile time but I haven't compiled firmware so I could be wrong), but I'm not sure about other firmware types.

[@czowieknuz7507]

Now do same thing but for Bambu AMS!

[@LostInTech3D]

haha, no

[@czowieknuz7507]

@@LostInTech3D there must be something that works in AMS :D :D

[@slayervamp87playstationgam18]

hi can use 85A and 95A to print polyurethane rods to sell for making bushings gasket & Seals? thanks good explanation 😉

[@LostInTech3D]

Depending on the application, I wouldn't want to use them on an engine haha.

[@some_random_wallaby]

Nice rundown. That mattflex looks amazing. Any noticable drawbacks compared to regular fiberlogy stuff? (not sure if I can even get it here, but one can dream :P)

[@LostInTech3D]

No drawbacks at all!

[@opinion_panda]

It does show up as a spider

[@davidbalfour3390]

Perhaps if you anneal your samples to get a more accurate/representative hardness test result.

[@LostInTech3D]

It's an idea, although unless annealing them for use...it's an interesting one..i do actually plan to do some tests around infill Vs durometer tests and see what pops out.

[@PRowl27]

One interesting thing that I noticed was that I had to slow down my print speeds for TPU after I switched from a brass .4 nozzle to a .6 steel nozzle. This is contrary to what I would have expected. Do you have any insight into this? My best guess is that there is either more friction in the stainless steel nozzle or poor heat transfer (which would be strange as I am printing at 220).

[@cleanroomwizard2356]

It is likely heat transfer - stainless steel has terrible thermal conductivity compared to brass and a drop in temperature at the tip could be quite substantial assuming the rest of the nozzle dimensions are the same. I don't think the rest of the nozzle should cause much resistance in comparison. I usually go with higher temperatures around 230 for very soft TPU

[@LostInTech3D]

It's got to be the thermal transfer. I really have only briefly tried steel nozzles myself, and threw them out in rage as I had such bad results. I hear you have to print *significantly* hotter to mitigate the poor thermal conduction. Personally I decided I'd rather just use brass and replace it more often, than struggle with steel, but it may just be my nozzles were also poor.

[@PRowl27]

I'll do another temp tower then and see what it shows.

[@paulstrealer5414]

It's definitely heat transfer. I've tried steel nozzles (0.8mm, on an all metal hotend'd Ender 3 with stock heater cartridge), and much like Lost In Tech, I've tossed 'em because of poor performance. You have to run /much/ hotter, and that makes a lot of filaments tricky since they're both getting "too hot" when sitting or making short movements and "too cold" during a long line. Steel nozzles are almost entirely a waste imo That said, something to watch out for with large nozzles in general is that your flow rate is much higher, even with a good nozzle you're going to probably want to print slower. I use a plated copper 0.8mm nozzle for nearly everything I print, and the guideline I use is to be around 3/4 the speed you'd use for a 0.4mm brass nozzle. Give the plated nozzles a try btw, they hold up slightly better than brass and conduct heat slightly better.

[@eideticex]

After thoroughly cleaning a steel nozzle, drop it into a small jar of mineral oil and let them sit in there overnight as well as for regular storage. Makes a huge difference. Just be sure to wipe excess oil off before installing into the printer. Steel can sponge up oil so it'll last for awhile between soaks. During my heavier firing off multiple prototype prints a day, about 3 months.

[@GreenAppelPie]

11:14 it’s just called the outer membrane.

[@rattenkop]

1:53 spiders in subtitle

[@LostInTech3D]

Shhh!!

[@wbeel]

But did you catch the 'shorely' pun? That was a good one 😅

[@wbeel]

It's not simple to catch though, I mean of course it's not why would it be?

[@wbeel]

It's fun to find the Easter eggs (aka 'cheap jokes'm hidden by THE TPU EXPERT

[@GabrielAlejandroZorrilla]

Love your style man, keep it going! Here, buy some candy. Cheers from Argentina!

[@LostInTech3D]

Thanks! 👍 Glad you enjoyed it too

[@TheFeist77]

any links for the harder tpu's you can buy?

[@bowieinc]

Ok, ok I’ll try again. The extruder clicking was just like nails in a chalkboard:)

[@puerlatinophilus3037]

Someone told me TPU would be hard to print due to bed adhesion. Bro. That stuff didn't want to come off! Printed Tronxy TPU blue at 228°C / 60°C at 15mm/s first layer and I still have residual material on my bed because it was so hard to get off.

[@LostInTech3D]

it really likes to stick to textured beds 😂 it'll come off eventually though

[@atomicfx6885]

i know we played with tpu with bowden and i might look back into this for my tenlog tld3 pro after i replace the junk hot ends on it but i can say directdrive capricorn is way easier to print with i can run 40-50mm/s no issue with tpu on my cr10s pro v2 with the hot end switched out for a microswiss all metal hot end with direct drive ofc and i would not reccomend cura as much as i loved useing cura for years it can be very buggy and cause failure with just the slicer alone i get ALOT better print quality with S3D with cura i haft to slow down to around 20mm/s without issues you can probobly print even faster then cura is allowing it might be a thought to try (by the way anyone reading this dont buy a tld3 pro they are trash printers for there price point im planning on rebuilding the whole printer as i got it free

[@barbarafidler910]

is there a filament where the shore is rated 60a to 78a? would filament DURAMIC 3D TPU Filament 1.75mm Black, TPU Flexible Filament 95A would that work to make 3d molds for resin? I'm new at this and want to 3d print them

[@Sharpless2]

One day i randomly decided to convert my E3 to direct drive for no reason at all, that was a few years ago. Last year in May i ordered my first roll of TPU. And still to this day, while writing this even, 95A TPU is so much easier and cleaner to print than PLA for some reason. However, even with PLA and PETG, i always really hated the bowden setup with a passion. Its ugly, the couplers are always trash and it limits your TPU choices for those rare cases.

[@crabbee88]

hopefully the precision instrument was made with more precision than the case it was in

[@marsgizmo]

excellent video! 👏

[@LostInTech3D]

Thank you! Do you think the mosaic pallete would print TPU? 😅

[@philippeholthuizen]

@@LostInTech3D i tried, with the second version and shore 85A, couldnt get it to work at all 😕

[@topherteardowns4679]

yes, they do show up as spiders. am i first to watch with credits and notice? lol

[@LostInTech3D]

No, but haha, I had forgotten

[@janosadelsberger]

Where did you get the Durometer? All I can find are more like 500€ and I'm not really willing to spend that much just to play around a bit.

[@LostInTech3D]

It was off Amazon, there's quite a few in the UK, or were. It was about £25 I think.

[@janosadelsberger]

@@LostInTech3D Thanks man! :)

[@2kPingu]

Danke!

[@LostInTech3D]

Thank you! 👍

[@corneywiebe9624]

I have weird question Can u use weed waker string to 3d print

[@LostInTech3D]

not that weird a question, people have. It does work, but not well.

[@SantaDragon]

What is "7OA" in the preview image?

[@iAmTheSquidThing]

Does the MattFlex feel grippy to you? I sometimes use TPU to print grips, but of course, it actually has quite a low-friction glossy surface compared to rubber.

[@LostInTech3D]

yeah it's way more grippy than plain TPU

[@iAmTheSquidThing]

@@LostInTech3D Thanks! Then I might have to buy some.

[@jayey195]

What shore do you suggest is the best to use for shoe sole?

[@LostInTech3D]

Depends on the properties you want but 95 would probably work fine

[@TommiHonkonen]

you should put trash ptfe tube on the neptune to see if its the tube

[@LostInTech3D]

I thought about that, but didn't want to mess up two printers doing unnecessary stuff :) Luckily there will be a follow up, actually, so keep an eye out...I may just have that test scenario by another means :)

[@borisgraell]

Hey, is tpu grippy? like a rubber band? im making a ping pong laucher machine, im planning using tpu for the rollers, but they have to be grippy, in order to spin the ball

[@LostInTech3D]

I suggest using the fibrology 40d stuff for that, because its exactly what you need

[@ethzero]

5:45 Confirmed for weak hands 🤷🏻‍♂️ 🕸️🕷️

[@captaincap96]

the spider showed up!

[@hobbyistnotes]

Nice video ;-)

[@Meblin74]

Do you have the profile settings referred to at 13:03 please

[@LostInTech3D]

They should be here www.lostintech.co.uk/profiles/ unless you're looking for something else in which case let me know and I'll put it on that page too

[@Meblin74]

@@LostInTech3D just what I was looking for.