You're WASTING YOUR TIME 3D Printing TPU!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Lost In Tech is the definitive source for TPU printing news

[@MarkusK_]

One could argue he has a bit of a soft spot for TPU

[@thebandkid8066]

Nice to see you in the wild Nate

[@802Garage]

@@thebandkid8066 He has been getting around lately!

[@Ro3Deee]

Nathan Builds Robots is the definitive source for the definitive source for 3d printing news

[@Mitch3D]

It's seriously impressive that we never tried going faster with TPU. The main issue would be making water-tight TPU parts since that's partly what I'd use it for hoses and seals.

[@jesta192]

It probably has to do with any time someone has problems with a filament or printer, a chorus of "Slow that thing right down" rings out. I've seen this even on PLA in the last year or two. Suggestions of 15mm/s for PLA for example 🤦

[@Julia________]

​@@jesta192 I mean it's not bad advice. Most print issues occur due to speed. Either you slow down, or you implement a bunch of changed settings, software, and potentially hardware. Slowing down is just easier.

[@jesta192]

@@Julia________ on my printer at least, slowing down often gives worse results. It's good advice for testing I suppose.

[@smorris12]

@Mitch3D I've printed various watertight things in PLA (including a pressurised hose attachment) which I was amazed by. I wouldn't even have second thoughts about using TPU (printed a water butt inlet adapter without second thoughts.)

[@FAB1150]

The turning point for me was when I accidentally used the IS "structural" PLA profile for printing something in tpu on my mk4. It worked! Doing a some tests with pressure advance, I set it to 1. Sounds crazy (like actually, the extruder motor works hard!), but it basically comes out like pla. Huh.

[@Smokinjoewhite]

I have been printing TPU (95a) at 100mm/s and 3.5k acceleration on my sv06 since I accidently used my PLA speed profile on a TPU print with heaps of retractions. Been using that profile ever since and it prints really well, near perfect.

[@dhruvbose8294]

I've been using pretty much the same settings on my ender 3 s1 pro for over half a year now. Works absolutely fine for Esun 90A and 87A TPU filaments.

[@1managainsttheworld]

I was positively surprised when I tried printing TPU with my A1 mini. First I didn't change the temperature presets that happened to be quite a bit too high, which caused the filament to bubble. BUT for whatever reason I tried bumping up the printing speed mid print and the bubbling disappeared completely! So in Bambu Studio you can even set the print speed to "Ludicrous" and it will make quite ok quality prints with TPU. The temperature needs to be closer to 240°C for this to work.

[@erin.anderson]

Honestly, my guess is that they are literally not testing TPU, so they're not updating their last known "good" values. Ever.

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah very likely from the conversations I've had

[@ZeeengMicro]

Oh no, he's gonna start another SpeedBoatRace

[@TechieSewing]

These might actually be watertight ;)

[@Smokinjoewhite]

Here in Australia I can get Sunlu TPU and other decent TPU's for around $37/KG, which is around $28 USD. It used to be around $60/KG ($40 USD) so it has come down in price considerably. I think more people are now able to print it and it is no longer a "speciality" filament and is being sold at far more reasonable prices.

[@girenloland]

The challenge is speed vs stringing. Ive got a 40 min TPU benchy on my ender 3 V2 (klipperized) with no stringing.

[@802Garage]

Great info! I still believed that a lot of printers would be restricted to 6-10mm3/s until recently. You were a big part of why I changed my mind. That, and I tested my Siraya Tech 85A and could get up to 12mm³/s without under extrusion. Could possibly go higher with bumped temperature as well. I imagine my Plus4 could easily do around 20mm³/s with most 95A filaments. I will be testing some soon!

[@RegularOldDan]

Years ago: "DON'T EVER COOL TPU" Now: "YOU BETTER COOL YOUR TPU AT THOSE SPEEDS!"

[@soundspark]

I've always run the fan full blast running TPU.

[@alexanderpopov3587]

It is indeed what I've found out myself after watching countless tutorial videos and applied all the recommendations, including to run the fan slowly or even not run it at all. The prints were terrible. I decided to try the fan at half speed and it improved the prints significantly. So I just cranked it up to 100% and the prints are PLA-like quality, no objections. Neptune 3 Pro and Eryone TPU 95A at defaults of 50mm/s.

[@LostInTech3D]

I have no idea where that even originated, I've always advocated running fan at 100% on TPU, proof is in my first vid :)

[@alexanderpopov3587]

@@LostInTech3D I don't know either but even the default profiles have fan to max 30% . Maybe it's a thing from the past like the speeds as running very slow does not require that much cooling. Thank you for doing your own tests and providing up-to-date information.

[@RegularOldDan]

@@LostInTech3D I will say I use it selectively. For functional parts with no overhang I use very little fan -layer adhesion is immense that way. Using a fan too much on some cases for me will result in thinner parts splitting under force. Long story short, I agree, the fan is good to use. I just don't have a "one speed fits all" pattern for my prints.

[@KRich408]

I used to use an Ender V2 with a MicroSwiss upgrade it's now hiding in my basement until a tarp out of shame. My Bambu X1C made it feel very embarrassed. The X1C handles TPU like a champ printing with it at speeds and without failure almost 100% of the time. Printers really have come a long way.

[@mrrooter601]

yep, shame the default tpu profiles are so pathetic literally 3.2 mm/s for "generic" tpu on BBLs tpu guide. not sure what they are using but, I get 10-15mm/s with no print quality degradation with "generic" tpu

[@4nto418]

@@mrrooter601 I don't get why people slow down so much with TPU. Like sure, you're not going to max your hotend before quality goes down the drain, but on a 25 mm^3/s hotend you can usually pump out 15, you just need to dry your filament well since TPU is even less forgiving than ABS or PETG.

[@mrrooter601]

@@4nto418 yeah 15 is about what I get on a stock p1s .4 nozzle before losing quality. I print clear/transparent tpu so its much more obvious when the quality starts to suffer. wet filament really has to be a huge factor in why people think TPU is hard to print. it doesnt take long to dry, but man does it ooze and string if its wet.

[@mrrooter601]

@@4nto418 wait is my previous comment there for you (the one you replied to)? its gone for me. youtube is such a POS.

[@AwestrikeFearofGods]

You can't overstate that not all TPU is created equal. I assume the direct-drive printer manufacturers have tuned their default profiles for the softest TPU (NinjaFlex 60A). If not, they would surely have dissatisfied customers. Would 2 default profiles (95A and 60A-94A) be enough, or should there be more than that? The choice seems somewhat arbitrary, which probably explains why they haven't put much effort into it. It's about time for it, though.

[@LostInTech3D]

I think one would be enough, because if someone is printing 60A they better know what they're doing anyway!

[@xCopyCatz]

Was following your years old guide on printing tpu, thought that my aquila x2 with ezr extruder and a cht nozzle could only do 5mm2, but after watching this new video, i tried doubling the flow rate and it works. Thanks!

[@Tony-pm5xo]

One problem I found with TPU is it gets dragged along by the nozzle and cause layer shift. This happens if the print is narrow and tall (like temp towers). Far as I know slicer can't detect these geometry so I end up having to slow the print down further than flow rate limit anyway.

[@martythestines]

I actually just finally bought some Overture "High Speed" TPU last week. I'm using my Ender 3 S1 Pro, since it has a Sunlu drier, mounted above it (for long prints when it's humid in my house) But it gave me the courage to crank the speed up. I started with 8 cubic mm then went up to 15. With it's CHT nozzle and the AUX fan, it does a great job. 215 degrees and it comes out so close to PLA quality. I printed that Optimus Primal thing the Paramount Pictures put up on Printables. It worked!

[@monetary_episode494]

On my Neptune 4, I struggle to get 18 minute benchies with high flow PLA, let alone TPU! This is crazy!

[@LostInTech3D]

I have a neptune 4 but I only used it for conductive tpu tests. It performed fine but you do have to print that stuff slow.

[@iPrint3D]

Stuff like this makes me second guess everything. I hate the speed of TPU...Guess it's time to speed it up!

[@GeddyRC]

I used to print TPU at 20mm/s on my Sovol SV06 and just dealt with the pain, but I finally got a modern printer (not mentioning the brand it so it doesn't come off like spam) and was blown away when I ran the default profile and it absolutely cranks the stuff out. It's pretty wild how well these things work now.

[@LostInTech3D]

You can mention brands around here 😁

[@sierraecho884]

TPU is super useful. It´s probably the biggest benefit for a 3D printer over injection molding.

[@mrrooter601]

13:46 "its not 2018 anymore" you know I see that sort of thing a lot in maker stuff (nor 3d printing nerds), guys who got into it years ago on the cheap for use in other hobbies and have an absolutely twisted vision of what modern printers are like. I recently saw an creator I follow, smart dude, UNIRONICALLY say that FDM 3d printers CANT DO TEXT, and that you need a resin printer for that, we are talking like size 12-20pt font here. its crazy. maybe they have never used arachne, maybe they only use .6 nozzles, or printers from 2018 IDK. But it rustled my jimmies, I literally went and did a test print with my p1s .4 nozzle to be absolutely sure a .4 nozzle can do something like 9pt font perfectly fine, and im sure a .2 nozzle would do text too small to read. I have only used modern printers but it worries me a bit that (smart) people still think they are that bad in general.

[@badhairday-m7i]

Not sure how people can act like that. I started with an Anet A8, now I have a P1S and an A1 and it's impossible to notice the INSANE improve in these devices.

[@mrrooter601]

@@badhairday-m7i I think they just dont know, like 3d printing is JUST a tool to them. a thing that makes plastic bits to go over the actual project sort of deal. but I see it often enough. you can just tell when they are using an absolutely ancient printer, by surface finish alone. and all I can think when I see that is "man imagine what they could do with some engineering materials and not just pla". I followed 3d printing from the sidelines for ages, only last year biting the bullet (and for good reason). at first it was jank with a lot of tinkering (cool if it was you hobby), then it was who can make the absolute cheapest chineseium. And only now is there actual competition for who can make the BEST printer for the best value (gotta thank bambu for really kicking this off, theres a ton of amazing printers out there now). you dont suddenly expect drill presses to get 3 times as good at drilling, but thats almost the case for 3d printing over the last 6-7 years.

[@TheLaXandro]

My big printer is a nearly stock Sidewinder X1 from 2018, it has no problems printing fine details either. Stick the .4 nozzle back on it and with modern slicing it'll do small text just fine.

[@mrrooter601]

@@TheLaXandro yeah im guessing not using arachne slicing was the main reason in him thinking text wasnt possible, slicing advances are a huge component of 3d printing getting so much better.

[@FrozenByFire3]

​@@mrrooter601 as someone who used Arachne for a long time, it has serious issues for engineering components using Engineering materials like Nylon with very high wall count/999 walls. I find no matter the settings I try I get some serious overextrusion in small areas where walls split off around curves and stuff while everything else is fine. Unless you have super thin walls below X2 of your line width where classic would do a weird ass seam, classic is by far superior. Fills in micro gaps better, overall better print quality and more consistent extrusion throughout. And this is having used Arachne for almost 2 year exclusively, using it ever since the first beta. I also exclusively print in CF nylon, PET-CF or now PPA-CF.

[@alaingrignon]

I own an FLSUN V400 and managed to get mine to print reliably at 200 mm/s with results good enough to sell. I have mine in a custom-built enclosure but when printing TPU I always keep the door open to help with cooling. I also designed and printed a special maglev spool holder to reduce friction at those high speeds.

[@LostInTech3D]

wait ...maglev spool holder???

[@alaingrignon]

@@LostInTech3D Yes, this allows the spool to "levitate" for 0 friction spining while it prints. I did this by taking the ring magnets out of some old speakers (I actually had about 10 people donate old broken speakers to me off of Marketplace). Printed a spool holder laying horizontaly and bob's your uncle!

[@Catrik]

The stock profile on my printer was 3 mm3/s, I "knew" TPU was slow, but I thought it was a bit too slow, so I did the flowrate benchmark. I was so confused when it was hitting 30 mm3/s.

[@priuxls]

I've been printing 95A on my voron with 24mm3 for a while now. Works perfectly

[@muuhamj]

This is great, test with larger nozzles. The speed difference will be HUGE. Shoving a rope through a small hole is hard, make the hole a little bigger and it flows like water. (exaggerating maybe)

[@jonathanballoch]

I want the internet record to show that this was the moment I stopped mucking about and actually bought a new printer. I have been telling myself for months that my SWX1 was fine. Not any more.

[@Bradford1040]

Yeah I as well print TPU at 85~120mm/s, one thing though, if it didn't get dried stringing is pretty bad, and TPU stringing is not easy to remove like PETG. It stretches lol, not breaks

[@Jynxx_13]

TPU is so underrated as a functional printing filament. 95A is so stiff at 3 walls 20% gyroid infill that I use it for functional prints instead of ABS or PETG...and the parts are basically indestructible. 80-100mm/sec at .2mm LH is standard TPU speed on my Klipper printers.

[@Polymate3D]

I am still 3D printing TPU on a ender 3 clone (Voxelab Aquila) but the Varioshore kind. I keep the print speed down though due to the single wall prints I do for the speakers. The fan cooling can actually move the single wall and create issues. Great video as always dude!

[@LostInTech3D]

Oh hey! Cheers! :)

[@AuxHex]

TPU is a great material, with high heat and UV resistance, as well as incredible mechanical properties. And hard TPU, like 70D+ can be printed ULTRA FAST. Another great filament is new fast PETG, like Elegoo Rapid PETG. I can easily print it at 30mm³/s while keeping fan speeds quite low (around 40% for part cooler, 0% for side fan). It makes the whole printing ordeal much quieter and faster than regular PLA. I like PLA, but it's not the best material these days. I just wish fast PETG varieties had more colour options and wood/marble variants as well.

[@LostInTech3D]

I find PETG harder to print than TPU (probably not a surprise haha) so I'm interested in fast PETG varieties you speak of?

[@marthiir7790]

@@LostInTech3D i find pla hard to print :D for me PETG much easier to print ,all sunlu petg can go 30mm3/s as far as ive ran it

[@moccaloto]

​@@LostInTech3Ddo you have multiple tool heads? Can you try making composite parts, combining TPU with other materials. For instance alternating TPU and other filaments by layer, or making a rigid core with TPU shell (hardcore 😂)

[@AuxHex]

@@LostInTech3D I'm using Copymaster3D PETG (the old discontinued version), which I usually print at 18mm­³/s and Elegoo Rapid PETG, which I tested up to 30mm³/s without any issues, but usually print at 20mm³/s to keep fans quiet. I can send you some photos of my prints in Discord if you wish.

[@TechieSewing]

@@moccaloto He does and he has. A video about interlocking in Cura had it for sure, probably some others too. And it was before Prusa XL time even.

[@HumanShield117]

I sort of just realized that the only failures I've had with TPU came from un-retracting too fast, and usually it's the big un-retract in my PRINT_START script that causes the issue... I'll have to try speeding things up!

[@simplegamerz9485]

Could we get a lost in prints channel where you just post prints?

[@LostInTech3D]

interesting idea, what would you want to get out of it? I have a 2nd channel, would be open to exploring what to do with it

[@simplegamerz9485]

@ I think it would be cool to just post whatever prints you’re doing and maybe have some music playing too

[@koenvanduffel2084]

I had cranked TPU speeds up to 15 mm3/s which works perfectly fine (never tried any higher as I don't use TPU that much). The main thing is that the minimum layer time can't be set very low (~7s) even on my RatRig with its powerful 4028 25.000 rpm cooling fan. Accelerations are the same as for ABS at 15k, at high acceleration retraction has to be set very low 0.2 mm). Setting retraction higher gives a lot of stringing funny enough.

[@maj429]

I set my TPU profile to have zero retraction and zero lift and I don't get any stringing.

[@TioDave]

Maybe manufacturers can start making softer TPUs again.

[@TylerTroglen]

I instantly upped the profiles for TPU when i got my Q1 Pro back in May. Default was 4, i print most my TPU prints @ 12-16 without issue on most TPU 95a.

[@lonewolfsstuck]

Doing some flow testing before hand on any filament goes a long way. Before i did a long TPU print on my Kobra max(1) i did a flow test of the TPU i have and it maxed out at 22MM/s^3 which is pretty good for a bowden printer, but it is a volcano nozzle. No extruder jams. cant say the quality at that speed is astounding but it is fine for prototyping at .3LH

[@kloakovalimonada]

I have an Ender 3 with Biqu H2 V2s direct drive and the only way to print tpu is to speed it up to PLA speeds. The default TPU profiles would jam almost immediately. And retraction on.

[@Rippthrough]

And you said we'd be angry. I've been running 20mm^3/s on production (structural) runs of TPU since I got my P1S - and that's slower than my dedicated TPU machines (Which are old 8 bit rep clones running printed extruders!). Amazes me how scared of it some people are and they're down printing it at 2-4mm^3/s

[@theboreditamar2108]

the only difference between my pla and tpu profile is the temp lol. and i print it at 150mms

[@AtomicBleach]

The best TPU prints Ive gotten are from CHEP's Ender 3 v3 SE 0.28 layer TPU profile printing on my Microswiss Ender 3 V1. As long as you make sure the filament has barely any friction at the spool and its well dehydrated I can print at about 2/3 the speed of my pla. A 10min print in pla with my fast profile is 15mins with TPU. This is just using sunlu 95a tpu. Im printing 0.28 layer height at around 60mms with just a 0.4 nozzle.

[@LostInTech3D]

sunlu 95A is not to be underestimated, it outperformed all my other brands!

[@Waldohasaskit210]

I don't care how fast it prints, I just want to be able to print large models in TPU reliably without it clogging.

[@nakleh]

I normally print with PLA and PETG, but got a roll of Bambu TPU-HF several months ago, and only used it a couple of times. After some slicer tweaks I now have it printing perfectly on my P1S, 14 mm3s flow, 100 mm/s speed. Maybe I can up the flow/speed a bit

[@awilliams1701]

I just did my prusa mk4s upgrade recently. But the printer is purple. I wanted it to stay purple. I decided to wait until after the upgrade to print the LCD cover and use the MMU3 to print it in color. Holy crap! That was insanely fast. That's PETG! so obviously prusa didn't just tweek PLA speeds. I haven't attempted TPU yet. I only did a few TPU prints. It's not a common material for me.

[@jaysonrees738]

Odds are, I could print faster, but most of the TPU parts I make are smaller than a fist and with low infill. They end up not taking very long anyway. Good to know for the future though.

[@reyalPRON]

nice to see others that crank that stuff out like its petg ;) cht though. i max out at 24 25. happy dude here. thanks for letting me know i go even more

[@Brandonscode]

Fighting tpu print speeds vs quality has been the time of my life. I print drone parts. Iv used lots of other suggested setting. Ended up with random setting that change per tpu brand and color and still no knowledge of why or how it some times works perfect and others it just won’t. 😂

[@LostInTech3D]

I remember when PLA was a bit like this 🤔

[@legacyofbob]

You are doing the lord's work, sir, and I thank you for it.

[@LostInTech3D]

it's a tough but slightly squishy job, but someone's gotta do it

[@PCBWay]

WOOHOOO!!

[@site19s_finest]

i love you pcbway

[@troncooo409]

Thank you, I wanted to print some TPU thing that would take 2 days. I'll crank the volumetric speed up

[@JBMetalShop]

How fast can we print a nylon benchy???? Who’s asking that question? Or PC i want to print engineering materials for my shop and save time too. Love your videos, from the time i found this channel i feel like i can always get honest observations and feedback here, love your channel and cinematography, keep it up!

[@LostInTech3D]

Haha all in good time 👍

[@labemolon5739]

After watching this I decided to try it out. With some slightly modified settings for PLA on an Ankermake m5 I was able to get a decent TPU benchy in 12 min.

[@LostInTech3D]

nice!

[@TheSimonarne]

9:07 thats better than my 10 minute bency on my ender 5 pro

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Hopefully with videos like this, more testing will be done and default profiles will be made faster; I don't tend to be one that likes testing stuff like this too too much (tho a bit obv is required) so I wouldn't really want to do a whole bunch of fiddling with it, but fortunately I haven't yet come upon a project that needed TPU (tho I've had a few ideas) so I don't much mind waiting at the moment either

[@Adaks]

Damn I remember once I used a PLA profile instead of TPU profile for TPU and it turned out better and faster. I thought it was some black magic lol.

[@LostInTech3D]

that happens surprisingly often

[@CrackedGh0st]

Modied ender 3 running klipper with sprite extruder direct drive kit sitting over mellows mirco swiss hotend. Standard .4 nozzle I've set my flow to 12mm³ with great detail and happy with the speed. Anything faster and I do get a jam in the sprite

[@LostInTech3D]

We tested the sprite and didn't get that high, so that's pretty good going

[@4mation405]

I would love to see this done for Silk PLA. I can't find anyone who recommends print it over 50mm/s.

[@TNX255]

The mad Doctor TPU strikes again!

[@yogician]

This is a very interesting video. I get really good results from my TPU prints much better than what I’m seeing from your results. I found that it’s all about temperature. You get a lot of stringing I don’t get that

[@LostInTech3D]

you're spot on with temperature. I ran at defaults through the tests which is higher than I normally print. And that, is behind the stringing, somewhat.

[@elrictraver8275]

The googly eye on the K1 hot end tho XD

[@radug9594]

It's funny because when I got my qidi plus4, i just eyeballed it and set the volumetric speed to 10mm3 and it prints just fine, didnt realise i could go higher lol

[@nicoleibundgut534]

The fl sun t1 only costs 500 dollers. Thats a good price honestly. Very impressive.

[@LostInTech3D]

oh yes. I actually think it's potentially the best printer flsun have made so far

[@nicoleibundgut534]

@@LostInTech3D ​Interesting i saw the review of clough42. I wanted an reliable printer that is somewhat fast and orderd an X1C last week. What do you think how to handle the artifacts on the FLsun?

[@3DPrintedMolds]

I actually just did a video and found something similar with PETG. I had great success with PETG with my printer set to 32 mm^3/s and the default is 12. I was printing calibration cubes and I cut the time to print a cube down from 16 minutes to 10 minutes and did statistical analysis that showed PETG is very stable printing at 270 Celsius, 500 mm/s print speed, and 32 mm^3/s.

[@LostInTech3D]

I need to look into PETG because I find the infill just shreds at high speeds. If you know why, I'm all ears :)

[@3DPrintedMolds]

@@LostInTech3D I have not run into that problem, I typically print PETG using the hexagonal lattice at around 10%. If I had to hazard a guess I'd bet on certain infill types crossing over each other being an issue in PETG because it's "sticky"

[@freedomofmotion]

​@@LostInTech3DCrosshatch infill seems to work very nicely with PETG

[@MrHeHim]

I had a Replicator Dual from 2012, I didn't get why people couldn't print TPU. Didn't look Great! But it would print 'just fine'. That's when I knew Bowden tube extruders were a design flaw themselves. Like a cube as a wheel. Little to no benefits, not in manufacturing, not in quality, and only really maybe helps ringing IF your belts are loose. And what was popular around that time were belt tension spring/clamp things that literally turn the belt into a spring to make printing worse. Which is one of the first "Mods" I did to my printer, including taking out the PTFE tube out of the inside of the nozzle. Absolutely no reason, other than someone somewhere in the position where they Don't belong making engineering decisions.

[@mrrooter601]

TPU is such an amazing material, more people should try it

[@LostInTech3D]

yes, it's by definition resistant to creep, so it has a LOT of applications.

[@mrrooter601]

@@LostInTech3D you should test out some 64-72d TPU, more people should know how useful it is for functional prints. 95A is already really rigid with 100% infill. Ive found the harder stuff even more useful in a lot of cases, near perfect layer adhesion is not to be underestimated.

[@julshg]

I personally always tune every new Filament. I've done it since my beginning and with the in-built tools from OrcaSlicer it's just so convenient these days. Just take 2 maybe 3h of your time, get all the parameters once and forget about it. Idk if i'm autistic (seriously) but i never understood how this isn't the norm.

[@joshstephens3224]

I discovered this by accident like many others here. I was wondering the same thing about the stock profiles.

[@freedomofmotion]

As an actual question about TPU printing. How do I stop stringing on print travel moves? It's insane on TPU. Using the Qidi plus 4 and I've gone up to 1.2mm retraction and 35mms. Do I need to go higher than that? I'm fed up of digging wispy bits out my TPU prints. Been printing TPU fast since my Kobra 2 max though after needing to print a very robust and large object and not wanting to have a 3 day print 😂

[@LostInTech3D]

Do a retraction test tower and a temperature test tower. Chances are it's printing too hot.

[@Yash-c3v]

The scary thing is what other settings do I need to change other than print speed in the slicer? Max flow rate for the filament profile? Just those two or more ?

[@Bapate-rh9be]

Honestly - since most of everybody prints TPU only sporadically the manufacturers just do not put much effort into developing it.

[@KilianGosewisch]

Heyyyy another upload by Lost In TPU

[@MrMalaman]

Surprising,hanks

[@talentedmrripley9057]

I really wish we would largely move away from discussing print move speed and focus primarily on volumetric flow rate. I don't care how fast the motion system is if you can't flow enough filament to keep up with it.

[@LostInTech3D]

Thing is... This, but. If you're doing 0.4 x 0.2 lines, it's kinda hard to hit max flow on PLA with anything other than a crazy machine. Oh and cooling!

[@talentedmrripley9057]

@@LostInTech3D Do you think it's likely or common to be hitting max movement limits but not hitting max flow limits? Because if not then max flow still seems the overall better and more useful benchmark to work from. And is this perhaps a reason to try and move more people to larger nozzles?

[@chrissavage5966]

Oy, leave my crappy old Ender 3 V2 alone you big bully!!!! Funny enough, it failed yesterday, the extruder stopped working. The TMC2130 Stepstick blew up. Ordered a set of new ones in the V3 spec....then I see this showing just how good something as cheap as a Sovol SV06 can be. Doh! That said, I am kind of attached to the Ender given all the effort I put into 'improving' it, and I don;t often print anything much now anyway...so I'll soldier on for a while longer I guess. Certainly interesting to see these machines pushing TPU out so fast and with such generally good results. I do print it on occasion with my Bowden-tastic Ender and it does work OK...but of course, very very slowly....... I did fit a dual-gear extruder way back.

[@nosenseofhumor1]

I’ve been trying so hard to print 60a tpu on my x1c. I’ve seen the inside of my extruder a lot.

[@LostInTech3D]

if you havent already, take all the bowden out and feed from directly above, and reel it off manually so it isnt pulling against the reel

[@smorris12]

I went to print some TPU the other day. I'm still not entirely through the reel I bought in about 2019 to give you an idea of how often I do but which I'd previously got it going quite nicely through my modded Boden'd dual-geared lash-up. I wound up the speed a bit as it seemed horribly slow, put a bit of retraction in and found it wrapped up in the extruder. I undid my changes and it lunched itself when it seemed to jerk the reel forward. I laid out some TPU loose and this time it lunched it in the middle of a line. There is no point to this story. Please move along and leave the poor wretch in the gutter.

[@sleeptyper]

Secret squirrels require explanation! I'll wait. :D

[@Leynad778]

Actually I have at least one TPU-filament (Extrudr TPU hard) I have problems to print with the Bambu Lab, similar to using the AMS with TPU (stops extruding, clocks up) . I've tried slower speed, that didn't help, but haven't tried increasing the flow-rate instead. This might fix the problem and might even make TPU AMS-compatible...

[@TherapyWithWind]

Verify you have removed as much of filament from your hot end as possible, purge purge purge. Especially if you use any type of filaments with glass or fiber, even some glow filament will often leave residue. Also, ensure your tensioner on the extruder feed gear is not over tightened. More is not always better. I'm running a bowden feed (stock on flsunSR super racer) and can easily print with great results, upwards of 30mm³/s.

[@lindseyjohnson1130]

I've been printing TPU for years when NinjTek's 85A NinjaFlex was all that was available. This was printed on a Original Prusa i3 that had a glass build surface. I pushed that to around 30mm/sec with a V6 hot end. So what's with all of the stringing. Kinda out of control.

[@LostInTech3D]

defaults, complain to whoever wrote them :)

[@lindseyjohnson1130]

@@LostInTech3D I'm not complaining. I was asking a question. By the way, it's not the fault of the profile. I do create my own profiles, but when I built my MK4, I wanted to see what the stock profiles would produce, and they performed well. The stringing is simply a moisture issue from not drying them completely. I use many different brands of TPU and various Shore hardnesses with no stringing when properly dried.

[@LostInTech3D]

Wet filament is exactly one reason for stringing. I made a whole video about it once.

[@croustibat682]

I think manufacturers dont update TPU profiles because not a lot of people use TPU. I bought an ender 3 when it came out, never printed it as I have no use case for it. I did buy a roll as I am curious not so long ago, but I kind of broke the hotend mount (it got a lot of play going 200mm/s for walls and infill printing ABS) so that will be later

[@auckwads8169]

Been running my e3 dd at 40mms for ages no issues. Not as fast as the nrw stuff but seems fast enough, could go faster but want quality

[@Diio_3dprints]

Great video! Love the small text here and there. My biggest issue to print TPU on my printers is AMS or CHT nozzles.. could for my life print tpu on my vorons with CHT nozzle. have you got that working?

[@LostInTech3D]

Mk4S has a CHT and seems okay-ish. There might be some flow rate impact but it should still work

[@freedomofmotion]

Retraction has to be off or very very small with CHT nozzles. If I was to hazard a guess it pulls air into the CHT and creates an air lock which isn't a problem in a normal nozzle but a CHT has enough surface area for the lock to cause clogging.

[@two_number_nines]

TPU is the most underestimated material and I would argue the best beginner material. It sticks perfectly to plastic tape, you don't need to dry it (when printed at 195-205C), it has a perfect layer adhesion and the video just showed that it supports PLA flow rates.

[@freedomofmotion]

you definitely need to dry it, sucks up water like no one's business. You can literally watch the print quality degrade over a 24 hour print if you're not printing out a drier.

[@two_number_nines]

@@freedomofmotion if you go over 215c then the moisture will become very obvious

[@Mrpurple75]

I have an old Anet A8 plus that I turned into a TPU beast. 300% feedrate over recommended

[@BlindingWulf]

I managed to about 400mm/s on the a1-mini

[@slacksthegreat]

I bought a biqu h2 for tpu, and it will chew it up, and you have to take it apart. When it does print, it's perfect at 5mm/3

[@LostInTech3D]

that's honestly disappointing. I liked the look of the h2.

[@frankb5728]

95A is easy on anything but the cheapest printers. The lowest I've printed is 85A and even that is easy if you have a decent extruder with a constrained filament path

[@ELEKTRIFI3D]

Why isn’t there no TPU speed-benchy for the MK4S? Or did I miss something in the video?

[@LostInTech3D]

I just didn't make it. I could, but it probably wouldnt be under 20 mins

[@jeffreyepiscopo]

Big fan of the Lithops

[@newonce-p4l]

Can you do a video comparing the quality of TPU prints comparing delta printer, CoreXY and bed slinger?

[@LostInTech3D]

I could, but a lot of it is going to come down to profile tuning.

[@newonce-p4l]

@@LostInTech3D I print a lot of the same model in TPU on my A1 and the quality varies a lot from print to print. Sometimes its near perfect and sometimes there are very obvious artefacts where I just bin the print because of it. I would like to see if you print the same model 5 times on each printer how reliably it performs. Ofcourse this has to be a more difficult model.

[@LostInTech3D]

I've often wondered if localised humidity - as in the weather - has an effect.

[@MakerBees333]

🤨 here I am looking for TPU deals for TPU week as it is my all time favorite filament 😅. Turns out it was only in 2019 Tomsk Polytechnic University…🤦‍♂️ My hopes have been raised and dashed 😢

[@knifeboygamer1200]

12:44 this sums up creality vs bambu rn

[@DJProPlusMax]

The Next Layer has already spoken about the SV06 Ace

[@LostInTech3D]

Of course he has

[@CrazyT0sser]

@@DJProPlusMax despicable leaker!

[@kimmotoivanen]

I wonder why they didn't start with less competed market spot - the Plus? If it's same size and not cheaper than Ender KE (cutting a bit here 😉) what's the point?

[@camaradeKC]

the netptune 3 was ans still is one of the best price/quality ratio for printing tpu and im still searching why the fck does this print this well this particular material

[@yodasscrotum]

" Great video ! "

[@LostInTech3D]

"thanks.". "🙏"

[@kingkalitzchen350]

cries in 2018Machine.

[@TechieSewing]

Ender 3 is a time machine! We are just using it wrong.

[@meanman6992]

And here I thought 25-35mm/sec was good for my P1S, I was satisfied…. Now I wonder.

[@jorgetboo]

im lazy about profiles, i have ender 3 v3 se, i use creality slicer for tpu, orca slicer for pla. and prusa for small things.

[@flolorenzo]

I'm having a hard time printing SEBS, which is also a flexible TPE, but im struggling to have it stick to the build plate. Ive got my best results printing on a piece of paper. Though the paper started warping due to the heat.

[@LostInTech3D]

I haven't used SEBS yet, I want to, just haven't. I also want to try PEBA. I had no idea SEBS was a pain for adhesion

[@flolorenzo]

@@LostInTech3D I'll let you know, if I find a trick for that, the only manufacturer that offers SEBS is recreus as far as I know. They recommend using a large brim. I had a kind of good experience printing on glass, but now none of my printers uses glass for a build plate anymore. I might try to print directly on the springsteel it self. Maybe there's also some kind of glue stick, that helps

[@TechieSewing]

If paper works, maybe painter's tape would work too?

[@flolorenzo]

@@TechieSewing that's a great idea, I might try that in the next few days 👍🏽

[@peircedan]

Looks to me like the default speed setting on the Ender V3 SE is the same for tpu and pla.

[@LostInTech3D]

That's probably a mistake 🤣

[@bumv2]

I've found that for TPU you need about 15 times the pressure advance that of PLA.

[@LostInTech3D]

Sounds a bit high but it's speed dependent so it's a range more than a value.