Trying to Replace a USB-C port on a Nintendo Switch that fails to Dock

Hi, in this video I attempt to replace a Nintendo Switch USB-C port on the Switch that I previously repaired, this was the one with the very bad bend on it. This Nintendo Switch fails to Dock so you can't play it on the TV. Previously many viewers thought that the USB-C port was faulty so I thought it was about time that I attempted to change it.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.

[@HiddenAsbestos]

It's a little thing, but I think it's awesome you're calling out the air-flow and temp settings as you're doing things. Very helpful to get a feel for how these tools work.

[@Tronicsfix]

Really nice job replacing that port! That's a tough one to do. You used a really good method to replace it imo. Bummer that it wouldn't dock but it's also not broken more!

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Steve, it was you that gave me the inspiration to try. I love that last lot of Switch videos you did (the 2 part video). Looking forward to the next lot that you ordered up :-)

[@Tronicsfix]

As soon as film and edit my last repair challenge video I'm filming Switch repairs!

[@Eyem1337]

@@Tronicsfix Come across anymore switch lites at all? I'm waiting for those to come up Also I saw a video where you had to use several gamecard readers before it worked, most likely due to a firmware issue. I've done 1 gamecard reader recently where I desoldered the actual reader component and soldered a new one on. Have you thought of going that method at all? Worked like new on the first try and was extremely low in cost compared to buying the whole board.

[@oOignignoktOo1]

I tried to do this repair but I ended up failing, the pins on the usb-c port broke and weren't making contact with the pads, it was my 2nd time doing hot air rework and my method was a bit hammy. The USB-C port on these are an unecessary pain due to the second row of pins under the usb-c. If you don't get those the dock won't work.

[@ChromeBreakerD]

I dunno there just is something special with you and fixing switch consoles. I really enjoy watching these videos (way more than othere fixing vids). Maybe because its high risk high rewards, or because the thrill of succseding is much higher

[@fatpatorgi]

I know you always say something along the lines of "I'm not a pro at this so don't copy me" but I have learned SO MUCH from your videos. Thanks!

[@buckbelcher4865]

I really love what you do man. Im a year in a Industrial maintenance program in the local vo tech school still have a year to go but your viedos have been very helpful. I hope you keep on doing what you do. Keep it up !!!

[@Jonnynot1plate]

Thank you, Vince. You and Steve are making me learn a lot and the videos are fun.

[@harryandy44]

Great video and always good to watch. I learnt some useful things from watching, I had never heard of the low temp solder and will be getting some myself. You've given my the confidence to try my own repairs too so thanks for the content. Keep it up.

[@mrbussey]

Another great video Vince! Broke my heart you had to remove it after the first time, but I'm glad you got it on the second!

[@EGGY6227]

Its amazing to see your skills increase over each video/project, good work on all your projects! Keep it up!!

[@BigDxxxx1]

Unlucky mate, you're definitely winning more than you're losing! Keep them coming buddy 👍

[@pds8475]

Good job. Your soldering skills are getting better.

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you sir :-)

[@nathanmead140]

Better than mine

[@DIMITRIS_PLAYS]

So finally you did tried to replace it! I've been watching the previous videos!

[@noobFPV]

Nice videos. There is joy in fixing things. I like how you show whole process.

[@momoster69]

love ur vids vince, reinspired me to buy and repair broken stuff.

[@televisionandcheese]

Ahh, that's a big shame that the bent switch still won't dock after all that, I though you replaced the USB port real well ! It looked proper professionallly done. Good to see the burned switch is now docking at all! I believe it didn't work in the official dock when reversed as I think the official dock only has pins on one side as there's no need for the other side to be there. Looking forward to the trying to fix PS3 videos !

[@MinimAlBert]

As always your skills getting better! I saw in a few video some "tips" to find shorts on a board… using alcool on a board power on, maybe with this metod you can find the problem on that board 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@Doom2pro]

Flux isn't conductive, ALWAYS USE FLUX! Even if you cannot clean it! Also you should have preheated the USB-C port so you are not putting cold metal onto molten solder.

[@jdudb]

This is exactly my thoughts as I watched. You can get no clean flux if the mess troubles you. Never put cold metal on to hot solder, a sure recipe for dry joints

[@bobbyjeff32]

Actually flux is a bit conductive

[@deano30923]

Some types of flux are also Corrosive if left on the board

[@joeh.9110]

Glad I read this comment. I did not know. I'm still learning how to solder to fix things.

[@dingoosh]

How would you safely heat the USB-C since it's got quite a bit of plastic in it?

[@charleshall376]

Well done man. Seriously... for as worried as you seemed to be, you did really well. You did melt the port a little which is why the connections were a little tough to work with. In the future, if you can, use a little flux... yes it will be difficult to clean fully with out an ultrasonic cleaner, but it will ensure that you don't have cold joints from very small movements on the cool down. Secondly, it will feel awkward, but try to heat it from the bottom and place the port in a downward direction and let go letting gravity and surface tension seat the port... about 1/2 seconds time after you let go remove the heat and let it cool. I hope this helps you... I really enjoy watching you learn the trade in almost exactly the same way I did myself. Thank you for what you do.

[@GabrielAndroczky]

A LOT of flux... there's no such thing as too much flux actually :D Go ask Louis Rossmann about that :D:D:D

[@charleshall376]

@@GabrielAndroczky True Alot of flux wont harm anything further than your wallet at around 1$ a CC US. (For the good amtech flux)

[@RandomThings4You2012]

@@GabrielAndroczky A Micro Paul of flux always does the trick.

[@Tylerjrb]

Great video as always vince! :). I can see your soldering skills/competency are getting much better. Really nice to see and certainly great work on the port as those are not easy. I'd be interested to see exactly where each pin on the USB-C pads go, fair few go to that chip. If the board is bent and damaged near there. Any chance of tracing and fitting micro jumper wires perhaps? If a trace is broken. Not sure, certainly something to think about. Possibly compare with your working switch to see exactly where each pin goes and compare to this damaged one? Thats the only thing i can think of repair wise if the port itself + chip/surrounding components are fine.

[@elvsrbad2]

Congrats on getting the port successfully soldered! I was worried about your working switch

[@Katiek_2012]

I am getting a switch for Christmas. And this is my favourite channel

[@CLC-1000]

Love these fix videos.

[@mysnakeisverysolid4694]

this video saved my life, I ALSO have a cheap and crappy soldering station and setting it to 480°c made it possible. got it installed and it’s taking a charge, but doesn’t turn on. Assuming the battery has been dead for so long but will keep y’all updated

[@ZaPpaul]

Well done on swapping that port, those are a nightmare!

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you :-)

[@martijn4740]

very nice and tidy replacement vince looks great

[@MASHEDPoTaTo3S]

Hey Vince just in case you were wondering, I was able to successfully swap out the USB-C port on that Switch I told you about on the first try. It turned out that I had cheap solder and fake Amtech flux, as well as the cheap soldering wick that comes with most kits online. Now I can say I stand by Kester 63/37 solder and NTE SW02-10 soldering wick and I got a real 10cc tube of Amtech RMA-223-UV flux. The combination of the three is night and day compared to what I was working with initially. I was beginning to think that I didn’t have the ability to tackle a job like a USB-C port on a Switch with literally no prior experience but I was wrong. Just a few KZbin videos and the right tools was all I needed.

[@Christopher_T_Paul]

I wouldn't be upset about the repair, you did what you wanted, you successfully changed a USB C port.

[@baconatordoom]

When I heat up connections. I put thermal tape around it. And a thermal compound like star lite on top of the tape. And let it dry a bit with the heat gun. Works wonders. Keeps from burning stuff around it.

[@skonkfactory]

When a board's been bent like that it's often the case that vias can get cracked, sometimes on inner layers if the board has HDI. You can usually patch around them since it's generally not a great plan to put vias in really high speed signal lines. The other interesting thing is that if your board has both wi-fi and USB3 on it, the USB3 signals have to be well shielded from the wifi antennas since they will interfere with each other. That often means that the USB3 signals are on an inner layer.

[@GuitarGamerRPG]

i was hoping you could fix it, but oh well it still does work

[@fluffymccakester]

had this exact issue. had to pay nintendo $100 to fix it since it was out of warranty at the time. cool to see a repair for it

[@neo1607]

Nice repair Vince, shame it didn't work for docking but at least it still charges. I've got another Switch to attempt a charge port on this week, hopefully better than my last attempt

[@nshezz8562]

Spot on job sir well done 👏

[@ianharvey868]

few things, chop up a cable and make a break out testing board, then find what pins go to the filters and surrounding video components using another board that works ;) if its the same as the working one then try replacing the video chip again but using less heat, also maybe worth looking at surrounding components to the chip that tells the chip to switch outputs etc

[@FireballXL55]

One thing that may have helped was to clean the pins on the donor socket and pre-tin them with leaded solder. You must use flux.

[@leeheggie7043]

Flux is your best friend. Always use flux and dont be too sparing. Also when your wicking off the old solder its easier when you have flux on the solder. Great attempt though :)

[@philsinclair]

Wow, I never knew Doctor Octopus was helping you out! 😂

[@thesilentwarrior6769]

Lol 🤣😂😂

[@ehsanyaquti1341]

You can ask your question from Steve additionally better than nothing. But you tried and your video was good.

[@simonbaldwin69]

Vince, here's some constructive criticism! Clean your silicone mat! You have solder all over it and you rebuild the switch with the screen side down so it's at risk of being scratched, then you place it circuit board side down while you get the charger lead, which you have the battery plugged in so there is the risk that you could short something out or maybe a ball of solder might get stuck to it especially if it is sticky with flux and you might not notice, just a little house keeping can stop things biting your in the arse!

[@LetsPlayKeldeo]

Amazing video as allways :) The only thing I didnt liked about this video is the new music you are using when speeding up the footage D:

[@etiennevanharen3893]

Yesss there it is, the much feared usb-c port replacement. Very nice job on that, too bad the fault was elsewhere. I checked the pin layout of usb-c and I still think it is an overcomplicated solution, using 2 mirrorred rows of pinns just so you can put the plug upside down in it. What is wrong with a slightly triangular connector so it only fits one way? Now you will always be hoping the hidden row sticks on correctly.

[@m111kca4]

Second way was much better, should of checked the terminals on the board before putting back on though. If it’s hot enough to come off it’s hot enough to stick back on, probably right about the damage being in the board. Haha then again I only watch you and couldn’t do it any better myself. Thanks for another entertaining video.

[@BcHmF]

Is there not a plug for usb c where the pins are accessable, like you got for HDMI to check connection in detail`?

[@zincmann]

My biggest concern is when you take a thinner board like that not lay it flat on some wood or a jig of some sort that holding it up in the air could cause it to warp further when you apply heat. When I used to re flow Playstation 3 Fats which had YLOD you were always told to lay the board flat or could damage it more.

[@guillaumefigarella1704]

Yo Vince! Wandered through your channel exploring broken switches and phones, and i wanted to know where did you learn how to rapair stuff? is it your actual work? Nice work here

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks, I am just trying to learn as I do these videos and from the comments from viewers that know how to do this stuff. I make plenty of mistakes and a lot of times I do not fix the items but I try my best and I enjoy doing it so that helps a lot :-)

[@GabrielAndroczky]

I really loved that you're progressing and getting better and better at soldering. Loved that you practice, that's a good thing, keep on doing it. Hot air still needs practice and more self assurance. So, my advices this time. Pre-heat the board. Put it in an oven at a relatively low temperature but high enough to warm it up evenly. I'm not sure how much you should give it because it depends pretty much on the board, but let's say 60 degrees C should not do any harm. Also, pre-heat the connector, because when you're putting it on, it instantly causes the solder to solidify and will not create a bond between the 2. Both have to be heated. This is why your second attempt was pretty much successful. I assume you melted the black plastic though which caused some protrusion of plastic on the inside, maybe causing the plugs to not go in fully. Also, i think it is a bit sideways as in one side is higher as the other. Maybe some pins are just barely connected because of this. One more thing. ALWAYS use flux, or even better, get some soldering oil. Yes, oil. I lately found it more aggressively work for hot air applications and just pulls pads and legs together way better for me than flux. You don't have to worry about cleaning it off underneath the connector, it won't do any harm. Another advice. I see that you've left bits of melted solder on the board. Always clean them off as if they detach, they can cause a short wandering inside the device. Also, one of them might be already causing a short right next to the connector. I was also wondering if you tried to continuity test the traces from the connector before putting the new in... if the bend is around there, maybe there's a simple trace-break that you could have found when the connector was not on. Just a tip, although pure speculation. Also, try to continuity-test the traces you still see from the connector to that chip for example where you tested the filters. Did you try testing the beginning of the trace up to the chip-legs? In general, and I know this is tedious work, but if you don't have a schematic at hand, you can take a known good board and continuity check the same traces on both and if one is showing continuity on a trace that the other is not, then you've got your fault. Also generally, look for corrosion. Slight bending and heating is rarely the cause of traces breaking but corrosion is. Vias get corroded and suddenly break connection between sides of the board, etc. Another thing I was wondering about. I'm not sure that is not just a plain 2-sided board. On camera it didn't look like there would be additional layers. They might be, but let's hope there are not. I would definitely revisit the board with a multimeter and check with a known good board, maybe I could pinpoint something that is differing on the "bad" one. Otherwise, you're really getting better and it's good to see. Sorry for my rant on your previous video... I guess I wanted you to succeed a bit too much :D Keep up the good work Vince. Good luck!! :D Cheers, Andreaux

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for all the great tips and advice. Don't worry about ranting, I learn from criticism especially when it is reasoned. Annoyingly I didn't think to test for continuity from the USB-C pads upwards as I was thinking too much about changing the port over!!!! I have never heard anyone mention soldering oil before so I will Google it :-) I definitely melted the plastic a bit so a bit must have moved or broke off to now allow the male plug to make a good contact. Great advice on the left over solder bits, again I didn't think about it causing a possible short if/when it works loose. Hopefully I will remember this for future 'fixes'. Take care :-)

[@tuttocrafting]

That board is at least 6 layer! More probably 8. Generally outer layer are used for impedance controled traces like USB HDMI ethernet mipi lvds and some ddr signals. Inner mid layers are ground and power planes. Inner layers are still used for lower speed signals. Central layers are again power planes.

[@tuttocrafting]

So far the most useful comment I've read.

[@GabrielAndroczky]

@@tuttocrafting Oh my... I wouldn't have expected that to be this sophisticated :) Thanks for the info!!

[@GabrielAndroczky]

@@Mymatevince It's _NOT_ easy... I'm doing retro computer restorations, repairs, mods since ages and often run into things I just don't notice, or forget, or simply don't know :D So don't worry :D

[@franciscolozada1059]

Great video as always, also where did you get that soldering stand to hold the motherboard from? Looks awesome

[@tenchicks]

At 33:14 the first from the right the second trace has a scratch like it mighe be a broken trace i would double check that and make sure there is continuity

[@hiresliving8114]

Did you ever find out what was wrong? I'm wondering if there is something faulty on the dock side, not the switch. I have a perfectly fine working switch. Works with aftermarket docks, just not with original dock. Problem there is im not willing to risk using an aftermarket and bricking my switch. Great video. Thanks for your time.

[@louisrb6106]

Good stuff vince A+++

[@GadgetUK164]

Great job Vince =D It's a shame it is still not docking =/ Have you considered one of the smaller components, like that 6 pin IC or the resistors / caps?

[@Mymatevince]

Cheers Chris, I went around some of the caps (not all) just to see if any had both ends to ground but they didn't. I haven't tested anything else as I don't know how unless I get a comparison against a working docking Switch :-)

[@Windo0ows]

My Mate VINCE hello

[@QsTechService1]

USB type C Always fun replacing 😃 Wonder If the replacement port is Bad

[@gregoryking9348]

Exactly what I thought too. If the replacement was new, or known to be good, it could be 100% ruled out as the failure point. I personally would ring out the old one and if good reinstall it.

[@LetiferTV]

he probably melted the plastic inside the port with all the tiny connections...

[@nathanmead140]

That's why i ❤ micro USB type B and mini USB

[@hove131]

This is the most difficult thing on the switch for me to replace. I get them installed just fine but can only get charge with putting in the USB port one way. If I flip it over I get nothing. I've tried it about five times now. I'm clueless

[@LunaticKD1991]

Good effort. 👍

[@peterbrandt7911]

During the intro I had a Dalek like voice in my head: "Yes, we know who you are!" :)

[@josephneale10215]

Awesome video as always

[@Tokaisho1]

Maybe try cleaning the port inside also, maybe there's a potential for corrosion where it's used outside, with some IPA in the port without needing to take it apart

[@bubbadoodah]

I suggest you make a USB- C test cable as follows: cut a USB-C cable; strip the insulation from the ends of each wire; plug the USB-C test cable into the Switch's USB-C port; test for continuity across the traces on the PCB for all wires in the USB-C test cable. Greatly appreciate your "nothing venture; nothing gained" attitude:-)

[@arnocool1]

can you make a video of your tools. like a my setup video. i am curious wits soldering iron and hot air station you using

[@leonardo7763]

Is there something that can blow like a fuse when something goes wrong with the port? Because i plugged my nsw in a defective usb port and it's not working, afaik it's charging because it's warm to the touch, and it's working i guess..

[@cschis]

There was a solder bridge near the HSBC port that was on the right hand side. I saw it while you were done testing the filters.

[@Mymatevince]

Really!!! I will watch the video back tomorrow to see if I can see it. Thanks for letting me know :-)

[@cschis]

It at 37:49 I think. It is near your finger

[@mr.stealyourgirl1779]

@@cschis are you trolling?

[@Sadman1471]

super video as always, where did you get that Doc Ock stand?

[@PrinceArtanis]

Hi sir , i have done this but when removing the port , some pins was not de-soldered and have been snatched, any idea to fix this please?

[@nilz91]

any beginner electronics or even hobbiest that you needed flux when soldering...

[@fritzcardona4221]

Where can i get a blue mat like that, what are they called and sold.

[@jpluera]

Sounds like you have a bit of a cold there bro..Get well soon!! ;)

[@goldenhereospawn749]

Well, at least you have a working handheld Switch; which is what I always use mine as until I have a place to live!😃😃

[@vulcanitu2578]

that is some cool tentacle holder...

[@Toogman]

Hope your cold gets better 😘😘

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks mate :-)

[@optimusp517]

Man that’s a bummer. So how many working switches do you have and how many are dead? Seems like you have a nice little collection. :)

[@aritzsedano5205]

Which cables do you need to play with keyboard and mouse on the dock?

[@hove131]

How did Steve at tronix fix drop the port out of his board within seconds? I struggle with these switch charge ports

[@AndreaJunior27]

There were those missing resolutions in the settings, and the video chip looks broken at the bottom left corner in the video...does it worth give it a try?...

[@peekpt]

Put the board on the edge of the table and heat it from the bottom and use Flux. The connector will settle by itself. Protect the rest of the components on the bottom. give it a tip tap like the chips

[@warlockboyburns]

If my switch connects with my pc over usb does that mean it will 100% work with a hdmi cable to tv?

[@eewheezard]

Who manufactures the USB C connector? I want to use same connector in my high volume product.

[@poolicker7271]

hey Vince can you show how to use a NS pro controller on an iPhone/iPad/Etc.

[@oruskind253]

Hello, in the end how did you fix it? Using portable mini dock works for you? Thank you I am sorry for my bad english

[@Mik3Bravo]

Get well soon mate, sounds like you've got a bit of a cold

[@Mymatevince]

Haha, I have, had it for over a week now!!!! Thank you :-)

[@timrandall4659]

just replaced a charging port and it will charge with the usb flipped either way but won't dock / display on TV any suggestions?

[@MistaJGames]

did you clean off that solder that was next to the port that was going across that trace? could be the reason why it wouldn't dock after you fixed it.

[@Eyem1337]

@My Mate VINCE Please get a better pcb holder that will hold a board solid and not move around. I picked up a Hakko Omnivise (I know it's expensive but it's worth it) and have done 2 switch usb ports with barely any issue at all using the omnivise. Doing one more this weekend.

[@SimonNemeth]

Like others have said, there appears to be a blob of solder right over a couple of traces right where you're finger is at 33:14.

[@goodcat9088]

Rest in peace Nintendo switch 😪

[@influensterstories9828]

Hi Vince. Did you ever have experience with NS power inductor 2R2 coil on main console motherboard? I got Switch with that coil just fall of or out. Let me know how I can send you pictures. Console is working on the charge and in dock, all do it’s not charging! I love your videos:) thank you for sharing!!!

[@qprtom]

Hi I am currently trying to rplace the same unit. What chipquik did you use? The one I see on amazon is like £300?

[@pablohdz14]

what temperature it need to be for solding?

[@UnwellGaming]

commenting at 2:22 without reading any comments to see if you succeeded or not. hope you get it to dock. if you do maybe you can also replace the usb on the last switch u fixed.

[@FinnSpins_]

that was a lot of work man i fell bad for you

[@DeathVictor101]

Hi mate can u fix a faulty Nintendo switch where the air breathe or the air vent

[@gashin5960]

What hot air station are you using? I'm looking into buying one myself but I'm not sure which one I should get. Thanks in advance!

[@fixingmoddingbuilding]

anyone come up with a solution for this? i also have the same issue. thanks

[@VOLTRONDEFENDER4440]

Is the video chip good replace it just in case

[@andycineofficial]

do you know typec only monitor for switch

[@JerzyStreetLife]

BEST KZbinR EVER!

[@RuneTheFirst]

Your SMD techniques remind me of Louis Rothmann's way of doing them. Have you visited his channel? He does most of his work (on Mac laptops) with normal tools and lead-type solder.

[@CiderPang27]

😂😂😂😂😂

[@sakurad6775]

I have a Nintendo switch and it doesn’t connect to the tv anymore it charges on the dock and by itself but won’t connect I’ve tried others docks and usbc to hdmi both my dock and switch work by themselves does anyone know what could be the problem

[@takismail]

My Mate VINCE never forget to use Flux.

[@alexrk280]

Where did you get that blue/orange "third arm" which hold the mainboard? link? Name? Thanks. And of course: thumbs up. Br from.germany :)

[@kriswillems5661]

I see a solder blob on the data lines, which are the 2 middle lines.

[@MrBarrymiles]

Don't suppose you have a video on replacing the plug on a nintendo switch power plug ( type c end )