Model Railroading 101 Adding NMRA Recommended Weight To Railcars For Beginners

[@metroredline]

I'm also a musician, who plays bass guitar. I cut up old bass strings to appropriate lengths and glue them to cars/containers with adhesive caulk for weights.

[@davespratt9533]

Great Information John, I'm in the UK working in both N and OO/HO scales (different layouts) so will be transposing the length and weight details to metric. I was disappointed when my N gauge closed van wagons repeatedly derailed (straight from manufacture), I added lead shot fishing weights inside the wagons, which has solved the problem, without any reference material, thanks for pointing out the NMRA guidance material this will help to keep a good standard across my rolling stock in all scales.

[@rocknewtonfilsterwilly7364]

For small spaces I use shotgun pellets, the small ones used for general skeet shooting. They will easily go thru a 1/8" hole or even smaller. They are heavy and fill voids efficiently. I use them to balance tail heavy Aircraft Models as well.

[@cookie4524]

One of the best, and least intrusive things ive found has been Tungsten putty. tungsten is heavier than lead, and as a putty its super easy to use and could easily be hidden below most train cars.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Cool - more tips!

[@sirblack1619]

Thanks for this video! It was very informative and just what I needed to know as I get back into model railroading.

[@Valderious_Toriador]

I've been watching this series from the beginning and I've learned a container full (bad train joke i know lol) about model trains, like the wheel set up for steam trains (0-6-0 for example), all the different types of M.O.W cars there are, all the different types of tracks (I didn't even know about scratch built tracks to be honest), the different tools involved, using the standard to make sure all the gauge matches, or that model trains could weigh different amounts. Looking fowards to watching the rest of this series and learning more about model railroading. So happy i came across this channel.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Thanks for the compliments. You may also enjoy the Model Railroading with Jack Burgess series on this channel. kzbin.info/aero/PLnxQpj82XbtoX5nN6DJCRA4rN3p_zhe0x

[@robertwillis7092]

Love your informative videos on model railroading.!!

[@tsgmultimedia]

Glad you like them!

[@jamesrhayden7818]

Very good advice for adding weight to cars. I'm past being a complete be beginner but I always go back to the basics. And your series here on UT is an excellent source. Thanks.

[@ianhiggins8728]

I use split sinkers that are small, I cut them in half with a small pair of side cutters. Super Glue is used to hold the weights in place .

[@willparsons32]

Your discussion was incredible! Absolutely a great time saver! looking for this info online can sometimes be tedious! Keep up the awesome work!

[@tsgmultimedia]

Glad it was helpful!

[@genej43]

My favorites are nuts and washers which I have plenty of in my tool box and attach with silicone if practical for the car being weighted. Tank cars are difficult so maybe drilling a hole on the bottom and filling with sand works for me.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Someone on FaceBook suggested using clay so that you can add more precise weight. What an excellent idea!

[@metalmike669]

Yes, I've used oil based Crayola modeling clay on my N scale rolling stock. It's heavy and easy to cut down and mold into tight spaces. I also use ball bearings.

[@tsgmultimedia]

That's a great idea!

[@ramonestubblefield758]

I most definitely will try the crayola clay thanks a million

[@geraldstewart]

I picked up a Free paint stirring stick at the Home Depot paint department. I wrote the weight required next to each inch on the ruler with an extra-fine-tip Sharpie pen.

[@johnherrin5815]

New guy....I really appreciated the information. It's just weights, but I learned a lot.

[@MrJohnB-qs6dp]

Very useful & user friendly. Very good for a beginner like myself to know!! Stay Safe & God Bless!!!!

[@Dymond_Y2K]

You were reading my mind about tank cars! Nice and easy solution!

[@jimpalmer5435]

Great job, very informative .

[@tsgmultimedia]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@luisserbia8474]

Thanks for the info...basic buy definitely important.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Glad it was helpful!

[@BlackWolfessUSCM]

Something a lot of people forget is, the standards in rail code, car weight, etc is a guideline to make sure "my railroad my rules" works. After all what good is a layout if the cars keep jumping the tracks. Everything has a base guideline that can be built upon in any way to suit someone's needs. Also I want that app now #NotATechnophile oh waitaminute lol

[@garygrauman9440]

great video helps me out greatly on the weights on N scale.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Glad it helped

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Good job, John, thanks

[@geraldratte9254]

Thank you for the wonderful tip on the template so easy to use and accurate this will save a lot of time and have more fun on our layouts. As for materials can find them anywhere for very cheap.

[@tsgmultimedia]

That template trick is really great, isn't it?

[@geraldratte9254]

yes, it is and sure will use it as I buy more freight cars.

[@J3scribe]

Nice job John. Keep up the good work!

[@tsgmultimedia]

Thanks! I like to share stuff like this. I learn quite a bit when I research the topics; both by reading and by talking to other modelers.

[@iwasateenageninjaferret4486]

John- It's greatly appreciated! 👍

[@rvnmedic1968]

Thanks, good stuff!

[@N2RI1]

the "inch worm" effect is corrected with the retarder springs included in Micro-Train Cabeese installed in one axle end next to truck so remote uncouplers work well ever since the early 70s.

[@dave3156]

Really glad you are continuing this series John. I agree with David Gerard--would like to see something on frame building. Keep em coming!!

[@tsgmultimedia]

There are a lot of things to cover in this series! I am sure I will get around to benchwork at some point, either for MR101 or Model Railroading with Jack Burgess. Stay tuned - more good stuff is on the way!

[@ianhiggins8728]

Hi John, I have done this to all my rolling stock and they operate so much better.

[@tsgmultimedia]

I did mine, too and it all works much better. While I was at it, I also checked and corrected the wheel gauge. I still need to fix some of the coupler height problems I have, but most of my cars have truck-mounted couplers. That presents a challenge because I should really convert them to body-mounted instead but a lot of my cars are not worth doing that to.

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

Thats a great idea to add sand in a tank car! Wow, i like that idea of having a paper with the weights on them per length. Awesome video! Thanks for the help

[@tsgmultimedia]

You're welcome, Joe. I love finding out tips like that and sharing them. I think it makes the hobby far more enjoyable being open minded enough to learn from other people instead of re-inventing the wheel every time you have to do something.

[@chucklamb3496]

Hi John, I’m new to the hobby and will follow your advice. Thanks!

[@tonyvancampen-noaafederal2640]

One of my favorites is bird shot #12 mixed with either epoxy or PVA glue.

[@bobgilray9405]

Thank you for the video. It sure will help with these ideas on adding the weight. Our club has a lot of cars that needed weight.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Excellent! That was the whole point to the program - share the knowledge and "best practices" so everyone can benefit! Share the video with your friends and club members if you think it's worthwhile, and thanks so much for taking the time to comment.

[@bigdaddy5179]

I use silicon caulk for gluing weights. Same as for laying track. I've had both epoxy and CA peel off after a couple years. I also paint the factory weight, because sooner or later it rusts. If the factory weight is heavy enough, I still drill a couple small holes in it so whatever I am using for glue can penetrate upward through the hole.

[@tsgmultimedia]

This is great info. I wonder if anyone who watches has used hot glue and can let us know if that works OK. It seems like it should work if applied liberally.

[@bkdexter79]

The Kato Autorack cars are very tall and very light. I had to add 3, 1/4"-20 nuts superglued to the bottom of the car to get the correct weight. It was still very light and tended to tip in some curves. I love that it's heavier and more stable now. Thank you for the information!

[@tsgmultimedia]

Thanks for sharing - you can also add even more if it makes them run the way you want!

[@axeandrail]

One step further, in the past I've made a 1"x2" strip of wood, mounted a piece of 2' track to it along with a Kadee coupler gauge at one end. Starting at the coupler gauge measure down the track with the predetermined weight recommendations for length of car marked onto the wood. You can check both weight and coupler height at the same time. You can also have a tether with alligator clips from you power source to have a portable programming track. This works really well for quick and easy trouble shooting and guys at clubs setting rolling stock on the layout after transporting to make sure all is right. You only need 3 things, wood, track, and coupler gauge to build this. Just an idea/tip I thought I would pass along.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing.

[@elleryparsons5766]

Very Interesting.

[@BritanniaPacific]

I have a pair of coaches that I’ve owned for fifteen years, and I’ve always heard something rattling around inside them. The coaches in question are an Amtrak horizon coach, and a budd frisco railway coach. After taking off their shells some years later, I saw they had a thin piece of metal to weigh them down. But I think my frisco coach also owes its weight to the fact its wheels and bogie frames are metal, unlike my Amtrak coach that has metal wheels and plastic bogie frames.

[@billyray94]

Good episode John.

[@Obi1kenobi10]

I've got "oil cars" I added weight to as a kid. used motor oil and sand. ( The ran 30 cars to a refinery on my layout) ( I miss the heck out of that layout. ) (oh, I still have the cars 30 years later. still full of beach sand and Mobil 10W30)

[@SGTGhost]

Great tip video John, I founded it always useful

[@tsgmultimedia]

Cool - this was the intention. I hope you were entertained along the way as well!

[@08biker97]

Great video, I'm a beginner and very well done, very understandable, thank you , thank you

[@MrMacAttacker]

I really wish I had this resource when I first started! One thing i do now when I need three pieces of weight like in the vid, i will glue them to an ice cream stick that runs the length of the car to support the spread of weight, so the middle weight won't bow a plastic base over time

[@doggonedog]

I use the third example for weight. However, I also follow a Model Railroader article as a base that also helps in other ways. You take a piece of 1x4 cut to a length(mine is 5 feet), place a rerailer that's also a grade crossing and place it in the middle, put your track down on both side. Now add a coupler height gauge on both ends. From the left gauge mark out your inches but instead of the inch written, write the ounces. Now you can look at weight, coupler, and clearance of your trip pin. Adding electrical also allows for testing/programing of equipment.

[@northwind9505]

Had no idea about this rule. But makes sence. I do remember as a kid added pennies to help the car ride better on the track.

[@Juxen4021]

That flatcar w/load at 05:51 looks really good. Does anyone know where the tie plates, spike barrels, and toolkits are from?

[@tsgmultimedia]

Not sure, but I would bet there are from "regular" manufacturers like details west or detail associates. If you really need them and can't find them, let me know and I will ask the person whose layout the image is from. He might remember.

[@twiztedmowers2]

I've used bb's when I made a loco chassis for a dummy unit. I made the gas tank hollow and the middle section of the frame above the gas tank.

[@majorwoody1720]

Good idea, I’ve got a container full of them

[@arnoldpaine4973]

Well over 25 years ago I built a N guage layout on a hollow door. I got to the point where I needed to do ground cover, trees, etc... and I stopped because I ran into some problems with the track seperators for the different electric zones. I never considered checking the weigt for my cars. I don't think it was even a discussion point back then.

[@mgr_video_productions]

Great video John!

[@elleryparsons5766]

Love it!

[@petermenningen338]

Solid copper wire either insolated or bare. can have different lengths and can be painted to simulate pipe or steel bar loads if exposed. Easily adjusted for length. An electrician friend might be a good source. For exposed wood pieces a cabinet or woodworker hobbyist could be a good source for this as there can be a lot of small dimension cutoffs from dado and relief cuts. Don't forget to offer some cold beverage as a thank you.

[@erleclaire]

For weights, go to your local garage that sells tires, usually they will have a bucket of lead wheel weights. (typically they are free) Lead is soft and easy to shape, hammer out flat, and even fasion is loads. As for weight in N scale 1-1.5 oz is the target. And if one is too heavy the lead can be snipped down easily to reduce the load.....

[@user-nx8tk1pp5o]

For my N scale flat cars, hoppers, and gondolas I glue lead shot to the bottoms of the frames with CA glue and paint the shot black. Yes, you can see the lead shot if you are looking at the cars from eye level, but most people I know have a downward view of the cars and the lead shot is usually in the shadow of the car. For my wood chip hoppers which dont have that much room below the frame I have created a false bottom for the floor using left over flat sheet weights from other cars. For my tank cars and covered hoppers I will open them up and put lead shot in them. For box cars I use nuts, just like in this video, however I use CA glue to hold them down.

[@danielhulitt1212]

Like the cycle weight idea, but just for safety, I would stay away from lead-based weights. I have used the double-sided tape often and did some steel shot in the battery boxes of heavyweight passenger cars. I used Tacky Glue to secure. They seem to track ok, but will be moving over the trucks later.

[@r.a.monigold9789]

THANK YOU ...

[@davidcurtis5398]

At our train club (over 300 cars) we used sand in some of the open cars and then painted the sand the color of the car. This with some glue worked great and was almost hidden when on the layout and viewed from the floor standing beside the layout. No visitor ever commented about the sand.

[@frederickcarlsen430]

I try to keep it simple and use whatever is to hand. Spare nuts and bolts are always around for enclosed wagons, and for open types, I use lead fishing sinker filings. I create the filings by using a wood rasp to file away the lead, collect the filings and pour them wherever I can into unseen spaces on the undersides. All held in place by lashings of cheap CA glue.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Lots of really great suggestions about what to use to add weight. I would like to make the EZ Weight calculator available for Android, but it will depend on the success of the Apple version. In case anyone cares, this channel and what I do to promote modeling, trains, history, and everything else is not a profitable endeavor. I am actively seeking sponsorships for the channel, but until I secure many sponsors, I can't waste time or money on stuff that does not help pay the bills. I love doing this, but I have to be selective! By the way, did you notice the sponsor for this program? Brightech makes some great magnifying lamps. If you need one, please consider buying it from Brightech and let them know you saw it here!

[@alderusdmc]

Wonder if we can see this app of yours made available for the PC as well.

[@tsgmultimedia]

@@alderusdmc It was discontinued the following year, as the trick with the paper diagram is WAY faster, easier, and free!

[@trentonlee9700]

Great video

[@captain_ravioli1514]

Glad I found this, my gondolas and hoppers derail easily. Head up though, the GI Joe flatbed tilts so this becomes impossible and it's light so it will derail

[@rjl110919581]

THANK YOU DETAIL VIDEO AS GOOOD TO KNOW THINGS

[@odalesaylor]

More of the Model Railroading 101

[@tsgmultimedia]

Yes!

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

Hey John, thanks for sharing, I need to do this to my cars

[@tsgmultimedia]

I have some Bachmann cars from a train set I bought years ago and they were all about half an ounce below the recommended weight.

[@LordRusty5]

Good video, John! I don't own a cell phone ... ain't about to ... so I'll need to go 'old school' on getting the weight figured out for my passenger cars - old Rivarossi coaches and whatnot. I like the length/weight gauge on paper you had! Another good adhesive is Barge Cement - aka Rubber contact cement ... even Walthers Goo.

[@Iconoclasher]

Another way to add weight to a car that's difficult (like flat cars) is to take some solder and wrap it around each axle. Paint the wrapped solder with flat black and it's barely visible.

[@tsgmultimedia]

I think unloaded well cars should just be pulled as a unit train. I don't see any practical way to make those heavier. Someone suggested only using well car models that are metal. I like that idea too. That's as heavy as you can make them without adding containers, right?

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Knowing your experience level, I feel safe suggesting this.... What I call the "Hanna Method" because it's definitely not mine! 😉 On Well Cars, Flats, ect.... Replace all distribution Lines under the Car with solid Lead Solder. Can look quite good, stands up to scrutiny - and adds sufficient weight down low!! 😁 Carmine ✈🚂🚙

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

Where can I get thevnnra weight chart for o gauge rolling stock

[@billhudson7537]

I tend toward heavier rolling stock, consider the NMRA recommended weight to be minimum rather than average. My technique for HO is to glue "BB" shot into the underframe. The lowest practical location, giving the best tracking. There is available finer shot for birds and c, but you must go to a shooting store for shotgun loads. And it's lead, some people are "allergic" to even the smell. I'm an old geezer and don't worry about such things, but the subject must cover every one's attitude.

[@markwilliams2620]

BB's....the shooting kind....also are easy to pour into a hole on a tank car for HO. Add some white glue wash after adding them and set the car to dry overnight. I always have BB's because I add a couple to every bottle of paint I open.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Good one! Some other people suggested shot for shotgun shells.

[@garysanford2606]

Just getting into N Scale what great ideas for weighting cars.

[@nssherwoodsub]

Great segment on an important topic. One thing to understand is that many weights are steel or contain iron which may cause problems with uncoupling magnets. Back in the day, lead was used but it's toxic so we cannot do that any more...Harold

[@NightOwlModeler]

Generally, I still use lead. If handled properly, there's no risk. Don't be stupid and eat a cheeseburger or rub your eyes while having lead powder/filings on your hands and you'll be fine. Wash up afterwords with shop soaps that scrub your fingers and hands well. The serious danger was in lead paint, which tastes sweet. Children would find paint chips around the house or yard and eat it. - Thus the push against lead paints. Metallic lead is much safer. I'm able to buy it by the sheet in various thicknesses at building material stores for roof flashing. No issues. NOM

[@Dymond_Y2K]

So pennies would be a good alternative for being cheap and non magnetic..

[@cookie4524]

tungsten weights are a good alternative

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Very informative John, even for us Old Farts!!! 😜 Absolutely LOVE that Weight Chart! Making one right after commenting. I've always run mine *heavier than NMRA Standards.* My Layout doesn't exceed 2% at the steepest point, and besides... Like you said, an excuse to add more Power is always a good idea!! 😊 The only thing you might have added for the beginner - besides weight, Plastic Wheelsets will also cause the Inchworm Effect. This is a great, solid Series! Doesn't matter that I've been in the Hobby since 1974... We ALL need ideas and refresher courses! 👍👍 Carmine ✈🚂🚙

[@ThePaulv12]

I must be becoming an old BASTARD, but that Brightech lamp really excites me. I must have one - I simply must. I have to admit this is the 1st ever ad on KZbin I've ever paid any attention to. I hate ads but they finally got through to me lol.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Give in to your old bastardness, come to the dark side! Make sure you tell them you saw it here too!

[@ProScaleModels]

Great info and vid, couldn't find your app though...

[@tsgmultimedia]

The app was discontinued. Use the measurement on a sheet of paper trick - it's way faster!

[@ProScaleModels]

@@tsgmultimedia I did - lol - just wanted to support cha! Thanks.

[@bobbiemitch]

If space is really tight, one can cast specialty weights from Cerrobend or Bismuth bars; assuming lead is not an option. I can still get lead sheets from my local HVAC supply house and on line.

[@MrAlex-ej8ov]

Something strange, I got a southern gondola, exactly like the one in this video, and there are weights in it. It came with 7 other cars and an SD40-2 on eBay.

[@switchtrackrailphotos5702]

recently i made a track cleaner and to make it heavy i just used an old spike

[@SteveH-TN]

Again thanks for sharing this video and information. I purchased a scale to be able weigh my rolling stock Recently I purchased a 3d printer and learning various CAD to design unique weights. Thankfully I’m retired and have an understanding wife that supports my various hobbies. I have a friend that has performed “ HO car maintenance “ for several club layouts. I now wish I had spent more time as his understudy. I searched the Apple store for “John’ s easy weight calculator” but didn’t find it ! HELP ! ?

[@ijakis1891]

15:40 tha car has metal wheels or painted plastic?

[@tsgmultimedia]

Metal.

[@ijakis1891]

Thank you sir.... Nice video Usefull information for beginners Greetings from Mediterranean and Greece

[@tsgmultimedia]

@@ijakis1891 Great to hear from you! I've been spending time in virtual ancient Greece lately.

[@ijakis1891]

@@tsgmultimedia hooooow.....you make me so happy and proud by reading your message!!! ... you have already open a gold door from the past!!! Keep walking sir!!!

[@tsgmultimedia]

@@ijakis1891 kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4HIpIB5qK6dnpY

[@GruffaloDrone]

Hello, nice work and useful information you provided. I would like to ask, the weight of the car, should be the recommend by the NMRA independently of the train length or has to be adjusted? For example longer train then havier cars?

[@tsgmultimedia]

Look up NMRA RP-20.1 and let us know if it mentions anything about adjusting due to train length. That should make for interesting reading! Also note that RP stands for "Recommended Practice" so that does not fall under the umbrella of standards which are more rigid.

[@GruffaloDrone]

​@@tsgmultimediaIt doesn't say anything about weight adjustment according to the train length but as I understand, we should fix the car weight to the recommended value. Although does this happening in the real world also? The cars are being loaded to the recommended value? Please correct me if I am missing something; Is it a good practice for a long train to set havier cars in the front and the lightest cars in the rear? Although it doesn't really matter on Model Trains as every car has the same weight. Or not? Maybe, if we don't have enough locomotives for a long train, then a lighter car is a good practice in the rear? I also like a long train with many locomotives!!!! And finally, does it matter where the locomotives are located in the long train? If we have 3 of them, is it the same to put all them in the front, or to spread them in various locations?

[@dotbmp]

is the NMRA standard modelling what works best for cars not strinlining? or is it simulating an average loaded car? how does it work out to take the real weights of the car and scale it down?

[@gvet47]

Found this video but it really did not touch on how to get different manufacture car apart. I have some Bachmann passenger cars and looks like they may be glued by end tabs. Also how much should engines weigh to develop good traction and not derail? I think the tender is very light too.

[@762Media42]

Nice job mate hopefully dan can return

[@tsgmultimedia]

Thanks!

[@jeffreyrule8143]

Thank you. Does CA stand for contact adhesive

[@tsgmultimedia]

Look what google had to say about it: What is CA glue? Cyanoacrylate glue, or CA for short, is commonly known by trade names such as Super Glue and Krazy Glue. It is an extremely strong and fast-setting adhesive available in three viscosities: thin, medium, and thick. ... To instantly harden the glue you can use accelerator, which comes in a pump bottle.

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

John, I got a problem for you, how to add weight to an empty well car? And you can't say add a container or trailer to it!

[@bobbiemitch]

Not John, but turn the car over and fill in available voids with lead or bismuth shot. You may not be able to get it to the recommended weight, but it will be better than being light.

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

Robert Dye I don't want to fill the voids with weight?

[@bobbiemitch]

If they are the Gundersons, then yeah, you may be sool. Look at the area by the bolsters. Maybe some voids there? Last option would be to wrap the truck axles with some solder and paint it black.

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

Robert Dye If the car is plastic. What I was thinking, was to trace the pattern of the bottom of the car on to a flat weight sheet, then cut that pattern out, then place that weight pattern on thir inside of the car, paint it to match the color of the car. But it would need to be removed before adding containers unless all of your bridge heights were way over height. If that makes any sense?

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

Robert Dye Or just sell off all of your plastic well cars and buy only metal ones!

[@cfdtv1]

Nice video. Thanks. One thing I haven't seen (I could have missed it and I haven't read everything) is this the empty weight or is this a loaded weight?

[@tomcook5813]

I looked in the App Store and can’t find your app?

[@tsgmultimedia]

From the description - Production Note: John's EZ Weight Calculator App on the Apple store has been discontinued due to lack of interest. I'd like to thank everyone who tried it!

[@tsgmultimedia]

BTW that paper trick is way better anyway! Easy and quick!

[@tomcook5813]

@@tsgmultimedia I just used it, been fighting derails for years, never occurred to me until I saw your video. Most of my 6” cars were in the 1.2 range, now they even act better and derails tonight. Serious thank sir 😀

[@trainfan25stewart16]

I use safty pins for open wagons

[@tsgmultimedia]

That is a neat idea. They are nice and flat!

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

Where can I po get a weight standard chart for o gauge rolling stock

[@tsgmultimedia]

I'd try a search on Google or some other search engine. Should be very easy to find.

[@Tealo951]

Is your weight app still on the App Store? Can’t seem to find it.

[@tsgmultimedia]

No I let the license to sell it in the app store lapse last year because it costs more to pay that fee than the app made! Use the trick I showed on that paper, it's way faster anyway... and Happy New Year! :)

[@jenniferwhite6089]

you could use a file or sander to take off the weight if it too heavy

[@tsgmultimedia]

This is true!

[@just4funTrains]

I need help with my grain Hoppers.. they are from Bachmann and need extra weight, You suggest drill under and fill with sand......... could you give options to fill the hole after the sand? thanks

[@tsgmultimedia]

You can probably take them apart. I'd hesitate to drill holes in a model unless there's no other way to access the inside.

[@el_ACE_de_ViernesDeReventon]

Hi is there a guide as to how much locomotives should weigh? Thank you

[@tsgmultimedia]

Check the NMRA's site and let us know what you find!

[@book1957]

I use lead sheet on livestock cars. Can still see through cars. Still trying to find way to weight open auto racks.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Maybe some hidden weight under the deck?

[@dthead]

Good lesson. One thing NMRA does not cover is the 4 or 6 wheeler, the formular tend not to work as well. Some say you add weigh until a train can approach the wagon and couple witout just pushing it. This causes a lot of discussion outsode of America since the UK, Europe and Australia have or stil have 4 wheel wagons. This is not somehing you can fix, but for many peopols starting it is good to know ( ie thr 4 wheel bobber caboose may need extra weight) I suppose this falls into "myRR my rules" area, and efinately into the experimental area.

[@tsgmultimedia]

It's possible they did not tackle that in the US because our prototypes generally do not include 2-axle rolling stock. We have mostly 4 axle and in some cases 6.

[@sparky107107]

i like the paper trick with the marks on it. but would it not change from size and car type. a auto rack id 83 feet long. in real. but empty would be quite light.. unless i am just looking into this to hard. and recommended weight. be the key to the whole video.

[@tsgmultimedia]

This is true, but you can't apply relative weight to your models, as weight does not scale down the same as linear size. I would simply use the guideline presented here whether the cars I am pulling on a model are supposed to be loaded or not for this reason. Do a sample calculation for what a real car's weight would be scaled down to whatever scale you model in. It would be impossible to add that much weight to a model. It's so heavy that you wouldn't even be able to pick it up, let alone get a model locomotive to pull it!

[@jerryjohnston403]

Can’t find your Ez weight calculator on apple app

[@tsgmultimedia]

Hi Jerry. I let the apple developer subscription I need to have it in the store lapse because there wasn't enough interest in the app. The app made less in the year it was up than what it costs to maintain the developer subscription! I am terrible at self-promotion. :D

[@thezfunk]

@@tsgmultimedia Apple charges a hefty premium to even develop apps for their products. Much more than it is worth.

[@ryzenforce]

I need some clarification. In the example with the 4" car, the rule for N scale returns 1.1 once to be added. What about the weight of the car itself? If the car is already at 1 once, do we still add 1.1 once to it for a total of 2.1 once, or do we just add 0.1 once? Thx and great video! Edit: Also, why the length of the car influences the weigth in model railroad? I would have thought that you want all car to weight the same because as you said, if a light car hooked to heavier ones you it could get it derailed in a curve. For example, in the N scale if the longest car possible is let's say 8", then 1.7 once should be the weight of every car in a N scale consist.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Please refer to NMRA recommended practices table 20.1 for more information.

[@skipduld3630]

WHAT TYPE OF SCALE SHOULD I USE?

[@tsgmultimedia]

Any type of scale accurately measures items this small. I use something called a postal scale.

[@skipduld3630]

@@tsgmultimedia I GOT ONE FROM WALLMART COST 20$

[@thetobin8or]

you can get wheel weights at Harbor Frt for cheap in 1/2 & 3/4 oz.

[@tsgmultimedia]

Great tip! Harbor Freight had that magnifying visor for cheap too!

[@mrinkboy1]

Great video, I use BB's for BB guns for weighing my cars