TTL with Multiple Flashes? | Ask David Bergman

[@thomasagabaonyango7548]

So glad that I am at the point in my photography when a video like this makes perfect sense. I’ll never use the 600’s but it’s still nice to know how things work generally. Very informative! Thank you Sir.

[@ryanpuff]

Flash in photography has literally been like learning a new language. There's so many acronyms and different devices and attachments. It's been a learning experience for sure lol

[@ncc1701BB]

David - I really liked this video. What a great help! Do you have or could you do a video on portraits with a Canon and Speedlites in manual mode?

[@felixrodriguez782]

So the object is to know how one wants the light the subject in different setting indoors or outdoors plus what the background is like to the subject when on then gun and run with a moving subject it best to know the area one is shooting . great coverage David

[@safari8292]

one of the best questions and best answers.

[@Impostertot]

A detailed and well thought out answer to a difficult question. Thank you.

[@patricknehls9087]

Great video David, very well explained. Thank you.

[@Lanalana80]

Thank you, David !

[@Black_Jesus3005]

Thanks David! Always great info!

[@Goldmangun]

Great explanation, thank you!

[@michalkubecek]

I like the video, it's a clear and well presented, I just have one comment. I wonder why people still keep repeating that the camera sets the exposure by averaging over the whole scene, even if they often have to admit that they had to change its settings to make it actually behave like that. 15 years ago, my first DSLR (Canon 400D) was already using evaluative metering by default and I suspect that even the Olympus C-4000 compact camera I bought in 2003 might have. After watching this tutorial, I checked the E-TTL settings of my current camera (which I'm pretty sure I haven't changed) and... no surprise, it's evaluative with face priority. Sure, it's not perfect and I understand that many people, in particular those working mostly in a controlled environment, prefer manual exposure; but I don't think it's necessary to make automatic exposure look dumber than it actually is.

[@Augnos]

I was literally looking for a video like this a few days ago

[@andyp7787]

Thank you. Great breakdown.

[@RealHouseMouse2]

Purchased a pair of Yongnuo 568EX3 with 2 triggers and a remote (all second hand) about a year ago, but I have not quite learned how focused them properly

[@jamespeters5913]

Well explained!!!👌👍

[@Sportserjeff]

Good information, mostly I use speedlites for run and gun shooting. Btw you should name your mannequin I vote for Bounce flash Betty! Lol

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

LOL love that!

[@jayare6872]

Would spot metering help out?

[@fiskpad]

Great video as always David. I do have a question though. I have the ST-E3-RT and several Canon lights. The problem I have never been able to resolve is the link between the ST-E3-RT and light drops after a few minutes and the only way to re establish the link is to turn both units off and then on again. I have turned off the “sleep” function on both but the problem persists. This happens with both a version 1 and a version 2 ST-E3-RT to the point it is unreliable at events. Others on KZbin have also experienced this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@hungtphoto]

If you are at the venue where strong router, dual WiFi router, or too many wifi, the link will drop. Only way is far away from WiFi or the venue has only one WiFi or put flash as higher as you can like 12 ft or more away from WiFi, it might less likely drop the link.

[@photo2000]

I'm a 20 year professional, and this was a brain strain for me! 🤯 moral of story, don't use TTL for multiple flashes 😂😂

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Yup! That would have been a much shorter video. 😂

[@charlesfisher2134]

Wouldn't just using a flash meter be a whole lot easier

[@daletaylor406]

Just like anything else in the digital age, there are multiple ways to do the job. Tools are tools, the end result is what counts. When I was shooting chromes I used a flash meter AND a Polaroid back. Now, I can look at the LCD screen and histogram and do the same. In real time, the time it takes to zero in an exposure with multiple pops with a meter as opposed to multiple pops looking at the result is almost exactly the same, plus you know you are getting what you want when it LOOKS right. And as David points out, TTL is for when you can't take that time, and a flash meter won't work then either.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

If you want to measure each flash separately and then dial in the exposures manually, then go ahead. For me, it's easier to see the exposure of each flash after taking a test shot, and then dial it in manually as needed.