Tubeless Myths Busted! Five Tubeless Misconceptions Debunked | Cycling Weekly

Most of us are getting a little tubeless curious these days. For road riding it just makes so much sense. It reduces the likelihood of all types of puncture from thorns to pinch flats.
However, we understand that to the uninitiated Tubeless can be quite an “out there” idea, and you might be thinking it can’t possibly work or that it must be prone to going wrong - after all we all have that riding friend who moans about it non stop!
Well, we’re here to bust some tubeless myths, and you can trust us, here at Cycling Weekly we’ve lost count of the number wheel and tyre combinations that we’ve setup.
This video is made in association with Pirelli: velo.pirelli.com/en/ww/catalo...
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[@walshman70]

I have run normal clinchers with tubes both butyl and latex, tubeless tires and tubular for cyclocross... And although I am a tubeless advocate for gravel and cyclocross, to me it doesn't make sense on the road for these reasons: 1) the average Joe can easily change a tube if puncturing and carries a spare when out for a ride and even then very rarely punctures... If the sealant doesn't work... You have a very messy install of a tube anyway 2) pinch flats are very rare on tires that are running 70 PSI and higher 3) there is very little difference in rolling resistance between latex tubes in a road tire and tubless road tires. I would rather save the hassles and foibles and just run good puncture resistant tires with latex inner tubes. Much favourable for road IMHO. Gravel is another story...

[@olivergroning6421]

Great voice of reason! Also to me it seems from what I see (honestly I have no experience with tubeless) that for the road bike tubeless just complicates things for a relative minor problem. I.e. I get a road side puncture may be every 5000 to 10000 km, (about once a season) and then it is fixed in 5 minutes.

[@walshman70]

@@olivergroning6421 to say nothing of the fact that you're riding mates will appreciate it only took 5 minutes! Tubeless advocates will argue that you wouldn't have the puncture in the first place, but in my experience it's gone both ways about 50% of the time. I've experienced successful tubeless sealant and unsuccessful in equal proportion. So for the road it just doesn't seem like it's consistent enough... And that's one thing replacing a tube will always be... Consistent!

[@olivergroning6421]

@@walshman70 Well... 5 minutes if the tyre is not new and easy to get off the rim. But what you say about the puncture resistance is consistent with what I see from colleagues (not many) riding tubeless. They get punctures too, still need to carry an inner tube and CO2-kit because of that. If they need to put it in, it is a dirty mess and at home you need to setup the tubeless again (1h of work if you know what you are doing). The numbers somehow just don't add up. Also I do not ride high pressures because of fear of punctures but due to rolling resistance (although that might be a myth I admit). For mountain bikes and gravel I guess its a very different question, there I can see a really substantial advantage.

[@marcdavidson3676]

That has not been my experience. I used to get a flat on clinchers every month or so. The roads where I live are not too good. After I got a tubeless set up I have only had two flats in a little over two years, and I did not need to put an inner tube in my tire. I will never use clinchers again.

[@olivergroning6421]

@@marcdavidson3676 I run a sturdy setup with Michelin Lithion 2.0 and Michelin butyl inner tubes. That is pretty heavy stuff, but it takes my mind off punctures. The roads here in Switzerland are however also really clean and good. So my perspective is just one where I really do not think about punctures and then the low maintenance of clinchers is a big plus. Actually, I change tires rather because of wear than punctures. In more puncture prone situation the equation can surely look much different.

[@harrylook7810]

I've been running road tubeless for 3 seasons, and I've only had one flat that didn't seal. Can't imagine going back to tubes.

[@annukun7318]

did you patch it or put a tube in it? cant go back to tubes but puts a tube back in when it fails!! LOL

[@charlesmansplaining]

Okay, so you've been lucky. But there will come a time when that tire is going to be glued to the rim so well that you won't be able to break the bead and might possibly even damage your rim trying to get the tire off. I've had to use Channel Lock Pliers to get two tires off the rims and my hands were in such pain afterwards. I never could have done this while out on the road riding if I had to.

[@rediryou]

I had tubeless on my MTB and got flat on my rear tire, put a tube in it, rode for another month and got a flat in my front tire and put a tube in that and then Voila! I now have a tubed set up. I can't even imagine dealing with this on my road bike. I glued two tubulars on yesterday in about the amount of time it took me to watch this video :D Also for those using tubeless on the road you might want to Google up pressure relief failures on tubeless rims.

[@timrandall8305]

Silicone spray?! No! You need something that 1- evaporates after, and 2 - doesnt stay as a lubricant after! Once the tyre has seated you dont want the bead to be lubricated anymore! Use soad suds from a little bit of soapy water, that all you need!

[@richardggeorge]

Alcohol hand sanitiser

[@awakenedbahamut2574]

Alcohol is the answer to everything

[@PoulHansenDK]

While debunking, you actually confirm the myths: Here are all the extra things you have to do with TL compared to tubes. Bring inside in warm room Buy a big footpump with a TL booster. check for kinks in tyre Install twice Lubricate the rim and afterwards clean it, especially when using rimbrakes fill sealant Bring extra toolkit and extra tube. AND it's messy when you have a bigger puncture, you get the sealant everywhere on your bike and clothes and it can't be dissolved after hardening.

[@DrJRMCFC]

pbekkerh total waste of time. And don’t forget sitting at the roadside for hours waiting for someone to pick you up when the sealant failed. Seen it several times. Makes me laugh.

[@ayowser01]

tubeless does ride nicer, however. The lower pressure required makes the ride more supple, and the stiff sidewall makes a sporty tire more reactive.

[@trroland1248]

Amen Bro. It’s a big scam to sell new stuff.

[@helvettefaensatan]

This is mainly a pirelli ad. I'm not impressed with the normally trustworthy cycling weekly.

[@cokebottles6919]

You don't need a special pump, I use a regular cheap one and never had an issue. Never needed to seat twice You don't need to bring extra tools or sealant. I bring a tubolito on long rides. 1 flat in 9 months vs to 6 flats in 2 months before going tubeless. Also, the sealant rubs off easy, you don't even need a cloth.

[@rimtism123]

My tip is to use automotive tire mounting grease. A lifetime supply is cheap, less of a mess, and it's made to dry out after the tire is mounted. It's also great for any other stubborn, tight tire beads.

[@froggy0162]

Just use the sealant...

[@ramonsanabria1472]

The best talk on tubeless ever ! I'm going tubeless on May 1st thanks to you ! 😜😁

[@jeremyb6980]

Just followed you advice to a T, after spending an hour trying to seat one tyre that would not seal, I tried another. The myths have be re bunked, sealant everywhere, a nightmare too seal ( Vittoria on Reynolds. I have a friend who swears by tubeless despite two failures I have witnessed. The onset of winter brought me back to the idea after seeing this video, but having just relived the tubeless installation nightmare reality; Mess, Seating, I think I will revert back to my puncture free Conti 5000's. Tubeless is trying to solve a fairly limited problem. Unless I have a trouble free 5000kms on these its back to tubes.

[@GreySectoid]

Check that your rims are tubeless ready. With proper rims and tyres it should be breeze.

[@jeremyb6980]

@@GreySectoid they sure are tubeless ready, just it appears not always or all the time. Frustrating. have re filled the tyres with goo a few times and they still deflate. Im persevering for now.

[@robertwhyte3435]

Warming the tire up with a hair dryer will make getting the tire on the rim easier.

[@martbaischful]

You forgot to add the weight of the tubeless valve, and the fact that latex tubes are signifincantly lighter.. then you also need to factor in that you need to top up sealant every few months, adding further weight...

[@dickieblench5001]

Road tubeless is basically insanity

[@Garrick42]

Late to the party, but I'll put in my 2 cents anyway. Been running gravel tubeless for 2 years, but always thought it was a solution in search of a problem on the road. However, after 4 slow-leak flats this spring (one during a road race with no wheel support), I'd had enough with inner tubes, so I set up my spare road wheels with tubeless: Hunt alloy TLR rims and Vittoria Corsa 28 mm TLR tires. I have about 1200 km on that setup and like it so far. Some observations: - You definitely want to seat the tire without sealant, then inject sealant via the valve. A gravel tire is big enough that you can pour the sealant into the almost-mounted tire and then finish mounting it, but if you try that on a road tire there's going to be spillage. - You MAY get lucky and manage to seat a tire simply by using a regular floor pump, but don't count on it. You need a sudden inrush of air to push the beads outward around their entire circumference so the tire starts building pressure. At that point, simply add more air until the magical pop! pop! tells you the beads are seating. A CO2 cartridge works great for seating, or you can buy an expensive pump with a reservoir or use an air compressor. I use a MilKit Booster for seating tires. - Remove the Presta valve core before seating tires...It reduces the pressure drop when you're trying to add a lot of air quickly, and you'll need it out to inject sealant anyway. - Once the tire is seated and sealant added, hold the wheel horizontally with the far end slightly lower, and shake the wheel up and down to thoroughly coat the interior of the tire. You'll hear the sealant sloshing. Rotate the wheel gradually to work your way all the way around. Once I've done all that, the tire holds air as well as it did with a lightweight inner tube, which is to say I have to top it off pretty much every ride. I'm using Stan's sealant, and while I haven't had it in my road tires long enough to know the replenishment interval, in my gravel tires Stan's has lasted a long time (5-6 months). If you shake the wheel and don't hear sloshing, and especially if the rate of pressure loss is increasing, it may be time to add sealant. There was at least one comment asking, "what good does running lower pressure do? If you hit the rim, it's game over." If you've EVER had a pinch flat, guess what? You hit the rim. If you're a heavy rider on narrow tires, then yes, you need to keep the pressure up. But do you really know what pressure you need to avoid hitting the rim? When I got a slow leak at Boulder Roubaix (Strade Bianche, Colorado-style) this year, I didn't start bottoming out the tire on big hits until I was below 40 psi (28 mm tires, 74 kg rider). By the time I had to stop to replace the tube, I was below 30. The move toward wider tires is, IMHO, a genuinely smart move by the industry. Wider tires (say, 28 mm instead of 23) are nothing short of a Godsend on real-world roads. You can run much lower pressures and tolerate road-hazard impacts much better. It's more comfortable, and soaking up surface imperfections actually offsets whatever difference there is in rolling resistance. Tubeless isn't for everyone. If you ride on pristine roads, if you can tolerate flats (i.e., you're not racing or doing a group ride where people don't wait for mechanicals), if you simply don't want to learn new skills and develop new habits, that's fine. Keep on running tubes, but don't criticize the entire concept simply because it isn't for you. Ride bike, have fun.

[@olivergroning6421]

Thanks so much... now I am fully convinced not to change from clinchers. I have a puncture about very 5000 km (for me once a season) it is fixed in 5 minutes and I am good to go for another year. For the advantage not get small punctures, the large ones are still around, I think it is just not worth it for me.

[@mahermichail1]

You’re just lucky not to get many flats

[@bradsanders6954]

Use sealant in your tubes,its easy to put sealant in through a removed presta valvehole. I havent had one flat since I started doing this. Who cares if it adds a few oz. Flats suck.

[@tomkunich7388]

I tried tubeless for three years and what I found was that they still get flats only it takes a larger hole. Since flats from a thorn or wire don't occur you stop paying attention to the road dirt and eventually get a large puncture. And of course in the rain you're always likely to get a large hole as the water lubricates relatively blunt glass chips so that they cut right through the tire. Now, If you carry a kit for filling these large holes that will sometimes work. But holes this large often cut the cord of the tire and it is dangerous to ride on the tire even if the hole seals. In any case more often than you would think, you have to put an innertube in. And that sealant is nasty stuff to deal with. By the time you're through with putting in an innertube and trying to get the tire back on that very difficult to mount tubeless rim, you have yourself and your whole bike covered in sticky sealant. Now Tubeless Rims have a higher sidewall than clinchers and the tubeless tires have VERY heavy rim cord and they are very nearly impossible to get on with standard tools on the side of the road. After having to call my wife twice and my brother once, I reverted to clinchers and instead of a 1 hour tire repair, it turned into a 10 minute job without all of the muscles in your hands strained. In my opinion, while there may be some minor advantages to tubeless they aren't worth the disadvantages.

[@richardblackburn4193]

Are you a 12 year old girl 🤣😂 an hour's to fit a inner tube 🤦

[@tomkunich9401]

@@richardblackburn4193 - Do you have tubeless tires? If so what tires are you using and what rims?

[@tomkunich9401]

I gave a set of CP5000TL to a friend who had Mavic Kyseriums. I couldn't get the tires on and he took it to a shop and the shop couldn't get the tires on either. My wheels are 50 mm deep tubeless carbon wheels. Maybe he should have gotten them mounted by Richard.

[@richardblackburn4193]

@@tomkunich9401 on my road bike they're schwalbe pro one Evo tyre ATM only been on a few months no issue. I don't know the wheel of top of my head it's Trek so will be something bontrager. It wasn't tubeless ready I converted it myself last year. The original tyre wasn't tubeless either but the conversation worked and I had zero issues for about 2000 miles. I only know the new tyres and they're new tyre recently bought.

[@richardblackburn4193]

@@tomkunich9401 maybe he should. Most shop mechanics are useless. I'm a car mechanic and as I said, my arms are a little fuller than a 12 year old girls

[@paulappleyard5832]

I recently went tubeless and the jury is still out as total ownership prospect with only 500 miles on them. My experience of inflating the tyres was really hard work purely because my pump wasn't up to the task. I don't care what videos you watch on youtube where someone pops the bead with a track pump do yourself a favour and get a reservoir. You can make one as I did but honestly factor that in as a cost. A lot of the naysayers are put off by the prep work and extra steps but i can remember the first time i fitted an innertube on my own as a kid and i can tell you it took longer than 5 minutes. It's just different. AS for the actual riding experience I'm simply blown away currently running 60psi @82kg on zipp303s which has tamed a very aggressive Aero bike the only things i try to avoid now are holes and cracks in the road. Depressions or rough surfaces no longer make me choose another line which has made the bike faster. I've tried 28mm GP5000 with Latex tubes @80psi and they don't come close to 60psi tubeless. I haven't run them long enough to comment on longevity, puncture resistance, or repair issues but i tend to ignore most comments on that kind of stuff because with so many variables one persons crap tyre is the best for another. In conclusion the riding experience has outweighed the rocky start which was self-induced.

[@JibbaJabber]

Yep, absolutely agree with ride experience - can't go back now! Tried Hutchinson fusion 3 tubeless a few years back and hated the setup. However, the latest fusion 5 performance are a revelation. Mounted with no fuss - no washing liquid or silicone lube needed, plus few jabs on a normal track pump - sorted. Valve removed, sealant added and a good shake - job done! Sublime ride at 55psi, minimal air loss and excellent puncture protection (30mm tyres). Don't want sound like an ad, but if you get a chance, give it a go. (Also, may be a bit faster a lower speeds as well - low rolling resistance).

[@austinbrough7327]

Agree completely with you. I am running Hutchinson Fusion 5 28mm on ZIPP 303 S, at 60psi for an 80kg rider. The ride is sublime!

[@pigeonpoo1823]

@@JibbaJabber how much do you weigh, just out of interest? I'm 55kg and run 25mm fusion5 at 50/55. Wondering if I could go lower without the tire being all squishy

[@JibbaJabber]

@@pigeonpoo1823 Hi there. I weigh around 67 kg. I recon you're around the limit for that size tyre on road. You'll need to go larger 28mm - there's much of a weight penalty for good improvements in other areas.

[@404nobrakes]

You definitely do not want to lubricate the bead. If you do, at lower pressures (which is the whole point of TL), the tire will spin around the rim under braking. This can cause some damage to the bead due to the hooks, but mostly it will cause you to lose air, which can be dangerous.

[@austynhughes134]

Great video! Very informative, definitely converting to tubeless tyres soon.

[@bhatch]

Great video; I recently set my gravel bike up tubeless and love it so far. Did it with a regular floor pump and soapy water, and it was a bit of a pain but doable. One thing I'm not clear on though: maintenance. Assuming I'm not wearing out my tires very quickly, how often should I expect to have to top up the sealant? How will I know when it's time to top it up? Do I need to worry about cleaning out the old sealant, or just leave it in? Probably a lot of the answers depend on the type of sealant used, but some general advice would be great. Thanks!

[@neilturner2068]

I got told when buying my tubeless set up that you need to add 30ml of additional sealant every 3 months and then once a year take off the tyre from the rim and clean all the sealant out and start again

[@tomast7911]

I just took down front tire of my GF MTB. I put it on on November 2019 and put there 100ml Stans no Tubes sealant. I added there 25ml of sealant year later. When i took it down (2 years 7400km), there were still 50ml of sealant and no (absolutely no) dried sealant. She had no failure during2 years, she had just pump it little bit once a week or two (using ~1.7bar). Tire was Schwalbe Rocket Ron Evo Lite Skin (no TLR or TLE version). Middle europe weather. Tire is still OK, no damage at all even at sidewalls, I've just put it to rear because of its age.

[@MathieuPAPI]

I love the fact that they cut in the video the exact moment where tubeless is a total pain. When you need to install the second bead on the rim. Here is the cut : 5:17 . The second bead goes magically on the rim lol

[@panzerveps]

I've had that problem on both tubeless and with tubes. It has nothing to do with the system, but the diameter of the rim and tire, and the stiffness of the tire.

[@JogBird]

@@panzerveps tubeless beads are far stiffer to prevent blow off from the rim

[@paulappleyard5832]

@@panzerveps I've just fitted Schwalbe Pro One TLE and they are the easiest i've ever fitted I was blown away how easy they were. Fitted some Gp5000 the month before and they were a real fight sometimes you just can't predict.

[@panzerveps]

@@paulappleyard5832 I've had no problem with GP, but Vittoria Corsa on my old rims were a pain, while on my new rims they slip right on. I run tubeless on my current setup, and I love every part of it, especially the 5 punctures I didn't notice until I got home.

[@bikndave68]

@@paulappleyard5832 - Those Conti GP5000 ride like magic, but are a nightmare to work with....

[@PeterPutz82]

The cycling marketing machine at work, creating a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. The ONLY benefit to tubeless is lower pressure, smoother ride. But it's so minimal difference that TL is a waste of time and money. A normal tube tyre will puncture once every 6 months riding 3-400km a week. If you do puncture, it takes under 2 minutes to swap out a tube and go. TL is for MTB where a tyre will puncture 10 times in one ride. TL is messy, the sealant goes everywhere when there is a hole. You need to carry tubes anyway. If the sealant goes on your brakes, no brakes (had it happen). If you leave a tube in, the tube glues itself to the tyre, so you bin the tyre. In short, TL for MTB, tube for road. Tubes work great, always have, you will not go faster in TL. Thanks Cycling Weekly for another useless paid add about another pointless product we don't need.

[@decidrophob]

Have you actually tried tubeless? It has been pretty good for me so far for two to three years.

[@PeterPutz82]

@@decidrophob Yes, ran tubeless. Got a rear flat, didn't seal, sprayed sealant all over my bike and raer brakes, no brakes. I put a tube in and rode home. That same day I went for another ride, flatted on the front, same scenario, sealant everywhere, no brakes on the front. A few weeks later I had time to fix the tyres and found the tube has sealed itself into both tyres, had to bin two resonably new tubeless tyre and the tubes. Total junk and waste of money. I flat once every 6 months with tube tyres, just not needed for road bikes.

[@decidrophob]

@@PeterPutz82 Many thanks for your detailed explanation. I personally do not go back to tubed unless I come across an experience similar to yours. If you were to give just one more try on tubeless, I hope you would consider IRC Formula RBCC Tubeless (not tubeless ready). It has been much better than other top brands for me. You do not even need the sealant!

[@PeterPutz82]

@@decidrophob Cool, I'll look into it, cheers

[@Dee-Ell]

"If you do puncture, it takes under 2 minutes to swap out a tube and go." I'd love to see a video of that live. "If the sealant goes on your brakes, no brakes (had it happen)" Either you're the unluckiest dude with tubeless ever, or it's BS.

[@ozseppo]

I lasted 3 months. First flat, a pothole gouge took out the sidewall, and was an obvious Uber. Now, I got another flat, huge industrial nail, thought it was a goner, despite my excellent field work, and then discovered the nail had pierced the rim, as well. Expensive. Relatively new wheel, and tubeless tires ain’t cheap. Luckily, I picked up a plastic Hot Wheels kids bike, at a garage sale, so I’m keeping it real simple from now on.

[@rbstretch100]

Silicone spray is a very big no no. It is very difficult to remove from anywhere it shouldn't be - just ask any paint shop. Soap is far safer

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes that was shit advice, it's also harmful to the environment and your lungs.

[@trick700]

I can’t believe he’s put silicon on tyre, it will not grip in the wet. It’ll be like Bambi on ice!!

[@imhs81]

Apply the sealant on the bids too, seals air with normal track pump easier too

[@RicardoEscobarMontecinos]

That was a very disappointing recommendation from them

[@Butternose]

I've found a lubricant was a must getting Bontreger R3's onto Hunt rims. I've read about lube contaminating the sealant causing it to go off premeturely, ball up etc. Thankfully no sign of this when I swapped a damaged tyre, I'd just used a low acid bike cleaner that was to hand and cafe latex sealent. It would be great to see a video experiment for install lube/sealent contamination with different lubricants and sealent's. Cue a bunch of pressurised clear pop bottles and a heath robinson centrifuge! Nice video, Thanks :-)

[@leftymadrid]

I see, when I'm out and have problems out on the road, before fixing the tire I'll try and find a warm kitchen or go inside a home to get that room temperature... Look, I totally respect folks who want to go tubeless just 2-weeks ago we had a line of six riders. Me being the 4th rider. Rider #3 happened to have a puncture and white spray no only sprayed him but got me AND the last rider!! We stopped in amazement at what had happened in a matter seconds!! Funny enough, the only tubeless rider was rider # 3!!! And I will add that this rider still uses a tubeless set-up which we all think it's just fine. Only I've noticed that people are keeping a little more distance in between... And the following "myth" is a fact, the poor guy had to put an inner tube with a sticky mess, not to mention the spray we sported on ourselves AND our bikes for an hour or more until we got to a gas station to wash up. Also when you weighed the butylene tube you weight a regular 3euro tube which is pretty heavy. Why do I use clincher tires, tubes, and rim brakes? My answer is=it's simple, it's light, works nicely and it is cheaper in the long run My setup Maxiss High Road 700×26 Weight 185g plus the TPU tube which is 38g and rims used are Mavic Ksyrium S and using rim brakes. Just makes more sense for me. But let's remember, cycling, and the way to run things is very personal. Let's respect one another and go out there and enjoy the adventure in cycling 👍

[@russellscott1151]

Biggest problem I’ve found is when you have to try to remount a tyre that’s been already on for months. I’ve spent many hours trying to get it to remount on the rim. Given up now and put an inner tube in it.

[@workingguy6666]

They believe tubeless is the right way to go because of the sponsors - they have to sell the 'latest and greatest' despite it not really being best for all riders. Let me tell you, the air loss, day to day in and of itself, with tubeless is a pain in the ass.

[@decidrophob]

If you had the chance to purchase IRC Formula Pro RBCC Tubeless (not Tubeless Ready!), you would have much less air leakage. You do not even need sealant. Nevertheless, I completely agree with you. I do not want to go back to tubed tires myself, but I think Cycling Weekly is exaggerating about air leakage.

[@reginaldscot165]

Myth: set up is difficult... 1) it's easy to set up, you just need a lab environment to set everything up... unlike clincher that can be done at the side of the road.... 2) oh and don't forget to buy all the new equipment you will need, your old pump is not up for the job! It's been good for 20 years but not anymore. 3) but yes set up is no problem, unless there is a slight mark on your extra special (and extra expensive) tyre... 4) honestly I don't know why people worry, it's so simple, you just need to tighten that valve... but don't over tighten! Or it won't work! 5) TOP Tip! Use silicon spray! Don't worry about that being incredibly harmful and carcinogenic.... it's not a problem... oh and don't spray it on your braking surfaces because you will have a nightmare getting it off! Myth: tyre pressure and leaking. 1) they are way better and more reliable! Unless they aren't... but that's your fault because you got the wrong tyres! GO BUY MORE EXPENSIVE TYRES IDIOT! Myth: they are heavier? Yes... its true... they are heavier. I always thought that the reason to go tubeless was it was lighter? But no... they are definitely heavier... 🤷🏻‍♂️ Myth: getting flats... just buy the right equipment... oh and don't get a cut because it won't seal... you can always put an inner tube in... the inferior inner tube that you were trying to get rid of in the first place? Oh well you will need to carry one still just in case something goes wrong... oh and a roll of kitchen paper and some alcohol spray to remove all the old glue... so all in all way more convenient than just carrying a tube. 😜

[@richardharker2775]

Yep! I had the same experiences. Road tires and tubes for me. Gravel tires with a puncture strip and tubes too. I laugh at those trying to convince us tubeless is better.

[@richardggeorge]

If you need a new pump then it has failed

[@arepea6087]

I've been running tubeless on my gravel bike for a year now the wtbs were easy to set up on my Hunt wheelset. I'm getting ready to do the same on my road bike. No problems no sweat no flats.

[@lucarusso7915]

Reginald Scot so true 😂👍🏼

[@arbjful]

They don’t tell you about these things..... after watching a few setup videos, I realized they were all using air compressors for a reason. Doesn’t running on lower pressures increase the rolling resistance??

[@Piplodocus]

Decided tonight my road bike is staying with inner tubes. I'm now deaf, have sore eyes and a sore hand and my entire kitchen is covered in pink sealant including the ceiling, all the pots and pans and spice rack!!! Neither my topeak track pump with tank or CO2 would seat it. Had already tried the silicon trick here to "make it easy" as per this video. But no joy. In the end got a bigger MTB CO2 cartridge and charged my pump tank. Cartridged it, seemed to fill up properly for the first time, hurrah, but no nice ping of the bead seating, so quickly stuff the tank on, release into the tyre, and BANG! Covered in sh*te! 💥😳🙈🙉😂 My MTB is tubeless, it's easy, did it with a regular track pump in the car park one lunch time years back. Gravel bike is a right arse to get the bead seated. Much swearing no matter how much I try all the best techniques. Worth it though for the puncture protection I've had the last few years. What tyres and rims you have and how well they seat makes a MASSIVE difference IMO. And don't get carried away, with too much pressure! 😝

[@simonjh16302]

Thanks. Useful tips! I have a question though. Can you refill a punctured tubeless setup with CO2?

[@petergottschalk726]

Just converted to TL 4 weeks ago. Absolute nightmare to to get it over the rim (I'm not weak) and constantly loosing air. I'm worried about the first flat on the road as there will be no way to get it changed without special tricks and tools.

[@gronno]

Running tubes with sealant here, no punctures and no fluffing with extra procedures or equipment. Best of both worlds fir my lowly level of competence.

[@kchappelle]

Well, that makes a lot of sense. No messy clean up after as well. That's the only thing putting me off is all that jizz inside my wheel and tire. Don't like that mess at all.

[@Rockthespaceship]

I saw what you did there with the title of the video 😊

[@AllIsWellaus]

I'm happy to look further into sealant but I would have benefited from you just going more in depth. First I was wondering, how much sealant? I did enjoy the video and this has taken some of that daunting feeling surrounding tubeless tires. Cheers. :)

[@patrickenglish9593]

I ride to work on bumpy pot holed Devon Roads with frequent thorny debris you can’t avoid if avoid oncoming traffic. After a few late arrivals with slow change of tyres/tubes with cold hands and really tight tyre/rim combos I tried tubeless. I made a few Rookie errors setting up first time not noticing the tyres were too loose on the rim and needing to add extra rim tape on my particular rim choice-use Gorilla tape to build up (thanks to my LBS advice) and got track pump with reservoir and from there on everything was sweet. No punctures in 2 years though I carry plugs and a spare tube in my pocket just in case. ON time for work every day and those bumpy roads fly by. Have gone with bigger tyres for my commuter bike at 40 mm run at 40psi and 30 mm tyres (Schwarzenegger G-one pro) on my out and out road bike (no issues setting up but do need to inflate pre ride) run at 60 now. I weight 72 kg. The ride comfort and lack of punctures are really noticeable. Not going back to tubes at this point

[@stevebzz839]

lucky.. i commute into london, same tyres as you, running 60 psi, (90kg) puncture about one a month, sometimes seals but will go again in a week or two and have to take tyre off the rim and patch it from the inside.. annoying but a more compfy ride with much better grip..off road.. never going back to tubes.. on road.. jury is still out...

[@ChrisSmith-rd6dm]

It's a great ride with that great big pump in your bag haha

[@finncarlbomholtsrensen1188]

The first thing I did, when buying a used set of tubeless XTR wheels for my MTB, was to remove the valves for ordinary use of a tube.

[@mikelogan2684]

great vid Would love to see an unedted version setting up !!!!!!!!!!

[@edwardwestrop4064]

you're in luck! kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3LEhXyPq6-Ch7M

[@helvettefaensatan]

@@edwardwestrop4064 whoha. That's the same video with a different sponsor and better advice. I'm totally turned off from Pirelli now.

[@tiiimmmaaayyyy3616]

I notice you cut the bit where you remove the pump and the tyre falls back out of the rim. Cheeky.

[@tomkunich7388]

Proper tubeless rims are so F-ing tight the tire remains on the step Tubeless tires are also EXTREMELY difficult to mount. He made that look easy so I assume that was the older Pirelli tubeless tires. Most of the reason I returned to tube clinchers is that it is so difficult to repair a flat on the road. The two times I used "bacon" the cord had been cut and I have to ride home carefully. I never had cuts like that on tube tires for some reason. Probably because it is easier to get a flat so you watch the road more closely. But I did have the tire slide off of the tubeless step once. That was when somehow I got the idea that Michelin Pro4's were tubeless (they most assuredly aren't) I rode them successfully as tubeless for about a month and then after coming down a high speed hill I came to a stop at a light and when the light changed I accelerate hard away from the light and it threw the tire off of the rim and me out into traffic in front of a street full of cars. Luckily they were paying attention and stopped BARELY in time.

[@kconnnnn]

@@tomkunich7388 he didn’t even show the mounting part 😂

[@TrailsofCalifornia]

Great to know about this!

[@patgallagher6642]

The Mavic tire I ordered was out of stock so I accepted the suggested alternative Continental GP 5000 instead. After breaking 3 tire tools, I resorted to prying the too small tire on the Mavic rim with other tool, that I proceeded to bend or gouge the rims with. Eventually I got the tire on, goop in and manage to inflate. Next day it was flat. If I can't find the Mavic tire for this Mavic wheel, I'm going back to tubed rims.

[@ThumpinRN]

Stumbled upon this video today and the comments really made my day. OMG, the bovine excrement about how bad tubeless tire are was enough to fertilize my hay field. There was not a single valid point raised except the slightly more difficult installation on SOME rims. Small punctures rarely occur so you don't worry about road debris? I'm sorry, thats a bad thing? Sidewall gashes that cut the cord? Really? In any case, the tire is toast with or without a tube. Your whole bike covered in sealant? I couldn't cover my entire bike with 2 ounces of sealant if I tried. Sure some people can repair a tube flat in 5 minutes but I can't count the times I have seen the same tire go flat because they didn't get the thorn or wire or goathead completely removed. And if you used you last tube and have to throw a patch on that 5 minutes is now 10. On the other hand, several small punctures on my tubeless hardly require me to add pressure. I've finished several races and noticed the tell tale white spots or overspray on my forks or chain stays. Each one absolutely would have been a frustrating tube repair. In the last 4 years and 15 triathlons, I had not had a single flat or leak that required stopping.I ride the Queen K from Kona to Hawi a lot. It is notorious for wires, glass and lots and lots of thorns. Before I went tubeless it was not a matter of if you flatted, but how many times. Not a single flat in 4 years since. I suppose those who worry about the messy sealant have no problem with chain lube all over their hands or road grime or mud or tubular glue. Flat repairs are messy and no fun no matter how proficient you are. Road debris is a hazard no matter what type of tire you use and sooner or later you may get an unrepairable slice. But I can put a scab on the inside of my tubeless just as easy as patching a tube. Those who complain that they lose pressure over night either haven't completely coat the inside of the tire or more often they have a poor rim tape set up. The initial set up on some bike may be a bit time consuming but more often than not most new bike come tubeless ready. Why is that do you suppose? How long did you spend on your initial bike set-up? But, by all means, keep enjoying your 5 minute tube repair stops, enjoy your rim brake bikes, and your 27.5 mountain bikes. The rest of the world has moved on. Thanks for the laughs guys. Keep on riding.

[@oldsquashmonkey]

I haven't read all the comments below but from what you've said about the weight, did you add in the tubeless tyre valve?

[@andystone5487]

Notice how we didn't see him struggle with the second half of tyre fitting..... Maybe the P Zero is quite easy???? I first had the Schwalbe Pro one's, tight as hell and not very good in the wet, currently running Conti's 5000. Not too tight, and seats well but they don't wear well..... 😕 😕 😕 😕 Deffo trying these next....

[@GPflashclass]

I bought Pirellis after years of Contis and like them a lot so far. They have a softer bead and grippier rubber. On that note, I'm going to go for a ride :)

[@MaxMustermannnnnn]

Whats your opinion to road tubeless? I need new tyres in few weeks and I cant decide if I should go to tl or not. Can it seal punctures at 7bar? I have a matte black Madone and i dont want sealant on my frame. On my mtb sealant leaves spots on my rims...

[@nicolaskirkland7095]

Spraying Silicon spray indoors - that's not going to happen in my house.🤣

[@bradsanders6954]

Little known fact,sealant works great in tubes. Get a tube where the presta valve unscrews and add sealant. Works great!................and as we all know,tubeless tires vary,rims vary. Doesnt always jive and seal like we want.

[@philging]

I ride a road bike and use pre-slimed inner tubes - never had a puncture in three years generally on rough country lanes.

[@chiefrocker12]

Have moved over to Tubeless two years ago. Certain brands are easier to install. While I have used schwalbe, vittoria, wtb and mavics own brand, schwalbe have been the easiest. One extra tip, make sure the rim tape is 3-4mm wider than the internal width of rim, and run two layers of rim tape. This may allow quick seating of tire

[@imhs81]

The tubeless tires are thicker and stronger, haven't had any punctures in a year~ (despite running on road side debris)

[@sgroadie6367]

Can you feel the sealant sloshing around in the tyre?

[@jack002tuber]

Is there any maintenance needed with these? I use clinchers and can change a tube in one minute, and no maintenance at all. I got my last flat like two years ago

[@imhs81]

I tried tubeless with normal gp4000 tires, it's impossible to seal because too many little holes on the sides!!

[@jernejorlcnik3112]

lol, no shit Sherlock :)

[@Sklouchechi]

Well. I converted mine, and I needed to tighten my Valve because the sealant I have isn't latex.

[@OldDavo1950]

Just need more gadgets to install the goop, no thanks I will stick with the tried and tested.

[@driftwood1752]

How wide should the rim tape be if the internal diameter is 19.4mm?

[@rhl2macwan]

Can I use a non tubeless tire as a tubeless setup after I do all the tips and tricks on a rim and this tire in question the the supermoto-x 2.4inch on a 27.5 inch mtb cycle but using on the road to commute

[@anzaborrego399]

Thank you!

[@LuukeyB]

Good video - much appreciated as I'm a recent convert to tubeless. Question - when is the correct time to replace the sealant? Also, does it need to be changed more frequently during, say, the winter months due to cooler temperatures?

[@jamesbracey6560]

Each brand of sealant has its own recommended replacement shelf life. Orange Seal is one of the longest at 6 months plus for the usual sealant.

[@JibbaJabber]

Good question - I had the same concern at the begining. I would normally go with the sealant manufacturer's advice. However, the best way is to check it yourself - deflate the tyre and pop one of the beads off. I done this after a month and found the sealant was fine. I kept on repeating this until I saw it needed topping up after 4 months. Sorted 😊

[@jimmyhor78]

Silicone spray because its "very very slippery" Sure sounds like the ideal stuff to have on your tire surface where you need grip.

[@stevesnailfish]

Great video by the way...... I'm a recent convert to tubeless in the last 6 weeks after getting pissed off with punctures on rides for years......,My rides being 90% off-road on a gravel bike, a CX and 2 MTB's..... After using tubes for decades, it's a no brainer and easy to set up using the dry run method.....and then syringe the sealant through the valve with the valve core removed if there's no problems (I've had none after converting the 4 bikes mentioned above using narrow gorilla tape and using soapy water to lube the bead on). I do have an old road bike that will no doubt get the treatment eventually as it really does work....the amount of thorn punctures I've had on my recent rides that haven't affected the actual ride is already proving to be the "no brainer" as mentioned above..... As for the 4 bikes mentioned above.....I have bought tubeless ready tyres when converting but only 2 of my bikes have tubeless specific rims......Needless to say, my CX and 29er MTB have not lost pressure despite being non tubeless rims...... Have a look at the GMBN channel for a bit more detail on how to do it.....and get decent valves !!!!

[@paulbusby2013]

I've been running tubeless for 4.5yrs - now & all 3 sets of wheels. I have an AirShot inflator so no problem there. Where I have had issues is getting the 2nd bead over the rim. The most recent was Schwalbe One All-round 35c on Hunt Carbon 30 AllRoad wheels. Once I discarded 2 tyre bead jacks & zip tyres then rolled the last bit of bead away from me with my palms of both hands - they went on. The industry is moving over to Hookless that will fit easier on more combinations. The only foreseeable problem will be to persuade cyclists to not over-inflate them!

[@thegorillaguide]

Surely spraying silicon polish onto the tyre and rim assembly will stop the latex sealant from adhering to it if needed. A much better solution is to use a tyre mounting fluid.

[@annukun7318]

how much selant is sufficient in a 25mm road tire? i put 40 ml in each tire...i ride 1000 to 1100 km per week and how often to refill the selant?

[@garywebber3228]

more time faffing about ! more expense ! and for what ? lol

[@ronstewtsaw]

If you put a tube in because of a puncture on the road, take everything apart as soon as you get home and clean the tube and tire with soap and water. Otherwise, a month later when your tube gets a puncture, you will have a sticky mess and won't be able to get a new tube to seat properly because the tire interior will be so sticky. Voice of experience here.

[@potsdam521]

Very interesting that the actual tire mounting was not presented on the video

[@johnhilton1360]

Which plug tool is that please..????

[@RunBikeRun1]

Dynaplug

[@stevebzz839]

road tubeless is a much better ride for comfort and whilst it seals, it is great, when it does not, which is usually when it is raining, it wont seal and you have to put a tube in or the plug doesnt seal it either, or just long enough to get home then you have to patch it from the inside, removing the tyre and sealant.. i love the ride feel and grip, but it is a pain in the arse when it goes wrong and you have the throw away the tyre way before it's tread goes.. far more expensive in the long term.. better ride and feel and grip yes.. but prob 5 x more expensive and a fafff...

[@salvaquest2123]

🤔… so you are stating that tubeless don’t loose air quicker if you purchase a specific tyre brand /type?? and if they don’t happen to have the size I require.. still not convinced by the entire tubeless hype for road or light gravel off the beaten track riding … having completed many 1000’s of km cycling and Bikepacking I’ve thankfully rarely had punctures .. I am a heavier rider @ 110kg by adding the weight of my bike and my Bikepacking kit and I run to over 130kg …. ultimately comes down to ensuring you run good tyres & change them before they become worn… the mess & faff of running tubeless because it seems the thing to do … 🤔 each to their own.. despite my gut feeling however I am intrigued enough to convert a spare set of wheels to tubeless & I will review accordingly… oh and regarding the fascination of weight differences always brings a smile 😆 do you feel you are some kind of Miguel Indurain, from a past era or Chris Froome from the modern era ...No exactly.. for the vast majority of riders .. does the difference of 100 grams or 200g make any difference whatsoever? It’s like the weight of my finger nail …. If I was that concerned with weight I would eat less !! 🚴‍♂️ safe cycling out there people 👍

[@jameslee-pevenhull5087]

So that's where they get their Pirelli wrist band.

[@bradsanders6954]

I use tubeless on one of 3 good bikes,my gravel bike. I will on my new roadbike when it gets here most likely.................but on a roadbike,you buy a heavier tubeless tire,take out a 4 oz or so tube,add 3 oz of sealant? How much weight have you really lost?..tubeless tire is heavier,so almost zilch difference. These Pirelli tires cost WAY too much for an average joe,Ive had em slice way too easy.

[@80robs92]

I don't think that tubes and tubeless setup is on par if it comes to weight. For example the Vittoria Corsa 25-622 is available as foldable (255g) and TLR (290g). Put Sealant (40 ml - about 40g) and the valve (10g) you're at 350g. However, the foldable tire with a TPU inner tube (20g - tubolitos) is about 275g. That's a difference of 75g per tire- in total 150g. It is about comfort.

[@alanleclair1]

Love my tubeless setup for road. So much more road feel and a more comfortable ride with a little reduced pressure. Tip: use a small amount of tire seal to lube the bead. It makes it easier to get the tire on the rim and secures the bead to rim when it dries.

[@indysbike3014]

Don't forget to use race sealant which can handle high tire pressures better. I used normal sealant on my GP5000TL and it didn't seal the hole.

[@SteveHofsaess]

which brand do you prefer?

[@indysbike3014]

@@SteveHofsaess I've only had Continental tyres. I recommend 28mm at the back and 25mm front. With the 25mm at the back I had a lot of punctures. Now I use 28mm and everything is ok.

[@indysbike3014]

@Val O'Connell You probably will lose some speed, not much.

[@ayowser01]

I lose ~6psi of pressure, overnight, using Schwalbe Pro One TLE.

[@edrcozonoking]

Good luck cleaning the silicon spray

[@rah4981]

I've just done it on my offroad bike, 29'er wheels. Shaved of 360 gram rotational weight going tubeless. But on my roadbike I will not bother doing it, road tubes weigh nothing, I don't se the advantage at all on a roadbike

[@turner02]

i confuse. me keep use tubes.

[@JibbaJabber]

Don't worry, it's simple: Wheel, Tape, Valve, Tyre Sealant. Just make sure they're all tubeless compatible, and then pump away😊

[@sepg5084]

@@JibbaJabber tubed is easier, and no need to spend on new "tubeless compatible" equipment. No need to follow the additional steps from this video. If i was a professional cyclist then maybe i'd try tubeless.

[@JibbaJabber]

@Sep G Granted, tubed is easier, if your only experience is tubed. However, tubeless is very easy as well. And just like Discs, tubeless will become the norm - and not just for the professionals. The key is make sure you choose tried and tested components. And you don't have to invest now, try it when you next upgrade. The low pressure suppleness is fantastic:-)

[@Dee-Ell]

@@JibbaJabber Right. Some people are willing to learn new skills; some people don't wanna learn new stuff and says it's hard. I wonder how they managed to ride a two-wheel bike without falling. ;-)

[@JibbaJabber]

@@Dee-Ell Lol. True. Maybe they're still on the floor crying over a grazed knee and calling out for mummies to rub it better!

[@Penumbrahhh]

Can carbon rim do tubeless?

[@inagbihal8518]

'These tyres have a special bead that seals and prevents them losing air'. Pumps tyre up- 'You can hear some air leak but don't worry, the sealant will sort that'. Huh? 🙄😁

[@dickieblench5001]

Bring everything inside 🤣🤣🤣

[@ezquiel700c]

Some tyres have a minimum pressure of around 80psi

[@craigcarr2202]

What is so hard about changing a tube.? Maybe great for cross riding but would you go for a ride without a tube.

[@namaroli]

Maybe some tubeless misconceptions debunked, but the one truth validated is that clinchers are way, way easier to set up and will get you on the road faster. Silicon spray and a special pump just to install the tires? Not worth it.

[@dpgrenfree]

Skimmed a bit of the sealant filling didn't he?

[@Gixer750pilot]

You forgot to mention too the tubeless valve weight .

[@KenSmith-bv4si]

I've been tubeless for 3yrs, zero flats. I do carry an inner tube just in case but, I'm worried it'll rot before I need to use. I keep my 28mm P Zeros @ 5 bar.

[@reginaldscot165]

Well You are lucky, or work for a tubeless company?.Most guyI know on tubeless have switched back to tubes because of flats and problems.

[@KenSmith-bv4si]

@@reginaldscot165 yeah everybody knows a guy, it's mostly BS from the "anti-tubeless" people

[@spb4900]

Made the switch

[@DaveCM]

I was reluctant to go tubless on my road bike for a while. But, after two years, I am glad I did. It is totally worth it. It went perfectly the first time. My gravel bike was a pain. It would not seat at all and I tried two different sets of tires. I tried a few tricks. Then I finally tried applying an extra layer of tape and now it works perfectly every time.

[@paulappleyard5832]

I can see why people get put off because your example and mine shows that everything has to be perfect for it to work. Tubeless has a lot more failure points during setup than just putting a tube in but people are missing out on a lot of comfort and performance if they don't try it.

[@ThePaulbself]

Put the new tube in a pillow case and then in the drier for 10 minutes. Or, get the kool stop tire bead jack

[@froggy0162]

Best bead lube is the sealant...

[@MichielVanhoudt]

You're assuming 40ml of sealant weighs as much as 40ml of water. Not sure that is true. In any case, I only consider it as it allows lower pressure. The other reasons are not enough to convince me.

[@JibbaJabber]

Yep, it's virtually a one to one relationship, within say 4-5g. Running at a lower pressure could be the best reason to go tubeless. Done right, this gives you more comfort, traction, protection and possibly speed!

[@jochenkraus7016]

You could argue that the lower pressure and more protection against pinch flats make tubeless equivalent to a slightly wider clincher tire. In that case you either save some weight or you're able to add more comfort even when the bike doesn't allow wider tires. But I admit that this comparison is a bit far stretched.

[@Gixer750pilot]

Silicon spray over your tyres ??? I wouldn’t be surprised if on the first bend you crash!!! They needs wiping off for sure

[@fc7424]

Pirelli Advertisement.

[@rangersmith4652]

But you left out the expense of changing to tubeless compatible wheels, which are not standard for most bikes, especially those more than a few years old. Only a handful of tubeless compatible rear wheels will work for my 22-yr-old bike, and all are either quite pricey or just junk. If I were to go tubeless, it would only make sense to buy a bike that's set up for tubeless from jump street.

[@rondvivre3636]

And, when all that fails, put a tube in it. You wouldn't plug a fine and expensive Pirelli on your sporty sedan and for good reason, why would you think plugging fine and expensive Pirelli's on your bicycle is a good idea?

[@saijapz16]

im using tubeless for more than 2 years, and i love it so much, no flats since ..,, i just put sealant every 6 months., (edited) i got flats but never really notice it while im still riding , the moment i got home is the time i know i got a puncture tyre because of a little bit of sealant on my bike frame., if in those times im on a clincher? damn, i need to stop and fix it. road side hustle 😭,, tubeless set up is really good but a little bit hustle to install but to me it is worth it, much better than to fix a flat tyre on the road every now and then ., i love tubeless , good bye puncture ✌️✌️✌️

[@annukun7318]

question in a 25mm road tire i put in 40ml of selant in each tire is that enough? i ride 1000 km per week about 650 mils

[@mr34]

Just follow these 100 methods to going tubeless. ERB. Oh and you forgot to include the weight of the valve for tubeless! No thanks, staying with tubes.

[@st939]

110 grammes for a tube? You're kidding right? That's tubes for commuter bikes. Tubeless is heavier, slower, troublesome and punctures just as well. Keep them for the MTB.

[@cokebottles6919]

1 flat in 9 months tubeless vs 6 in 2 months tubed. Tubeless is better in every way.

[@cokebottles6919]

@@siriosstar4789 fewer flats, it's in the first sentence of you do the math. They're also faster, more comfortable, and less expensive when including the cost of tubes if you want to make it a list.

[@MrAnon-2024]

Fit a tube if you can get the tyre off!

[@manwithnoname6580]

An awful lot of faff compared to just putting a new inner tube in. I’m not convinced at all.