Tubeless Road Tyres, No Thanks!

In this video:
Just my personal perspective on if it is worthwhile to switch a tubeless system.
Short answer… it’s not. 😅
Thank you for watching my video.
If you have any questions just ask in the comments and I will get back to you.
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Safe riding,
Reg.

[@danielemarcato6849]

Absolutely! Never go tubeless now that TPU tubes (and before that, latex tubes) are cheaply available on the market and lighter as a system….well done video!

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you 🙏🏻

[@PixieDixie-r5v]

Simplicyty is Divinity, and the TPU inners tick all the boxes for me, especially in the weight department.

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed! “Keep it simple stupid!” As they say. 😁👍🏻

[@BrandonMeyer1641]

I think tubeless has more distinct advantages in the mtb and high volume tire gravel world. Much lower pressures mean the sealant is likely to work instead of just spraying and less chance to pinch flat. There are plenty of examples of mtb riders denting their rims and the tubeless tire beads still holding air. Regardless the same disadvantages still arise when the tire is slashed and no amount of sealant with plug the gash. In that case, tubes are your only option. I’ve been running butile tubes my whole life and never had issue. I’ve had maybe 4 flats total. 2 were pinch flats, one was a massive gash, and the other was a staple. You make a great case for the tpb tubes. I think I may have to pick a couple up and try them out for myself and see if I notice a difference. I’m not much afraid of getting a flat so the decrease in rolling resistance is quite enticing. Many tires nowadays on the gravel and mtb side of things are basically all tubeless compatible nowadays so it’s kind of impossible to get away from the weight. However for the most part riders in those disciplines seem to enjoy the advantages of a stiffer sidewall, as do I.

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes I see the advantages in a MTB context for sure. 👍🏻 Oh definitely give TPU a try, even if you just use them as a backup. 🙂

[@ThePaulKat]

Only one problem , out of date data. The latest Schwalbe Pro One tle 25mm weights in at 245g. The rolling resistance data is also now obsolete as it has been surpassed.

[@reginaldscot165]

By other more expensive tyres yes.

[@Simbostyle]

I ran tubless for around 3 years, but went to tpu last summer after a tubless failure. I couldn't get valve out so I could put a tube in, and couldn't get a boot to stick to cover the hole. Plugs didn't work either. Yes, tubes would have failed in the same situation, but i would have been able to repair them at the side of the road. Tubless works well until it goes wrong, then it generally results and a phone call for recovery.

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes I have heard many people say something similar about their experiences with tubeless 🙂

[@EM-wd2vg]

Never tried tubeless and from experience riding in groups I never want to, from an explosion in a car (that took him a day to clean) to almost getting completely covered in bloody sealant when someone punctured (luckily I was a couple of riders back) so no thanks. BTW, for all the tubeless converts I will gladly take your old stock of inner tubes 😊

[@reginaldscot165]

Ha ha, this chap gets it! Good plan. 😁👍🏻

[@tweed0929]

I work in a bike shop. Usually I work on my bikes myself (if that doesn't require touching air fork on my MTB - then it goes to professional bike wrench). Even my friend - a professional bike mechanic asks me why I am not on road tubeless yet every time I visit his shop. Answer to that is always "because EFF YOU!". I was perfectly fine with butyl tubes and now, when polyurethane tubes became affordable, we have even better option. It's a superior product in every way imaginable. I've bought a box of TPU tubes cheaper than the same box of butyl ones (smoking deal!) and will install them in all my wheels when remaining butyl tube stock gets punctured into oblivion and I am gonna be lazy fixing/gluing those holes. The reasons are valid. I am tall and heavy (188 cm, 90 kg), therefore I run 8 bar of pressure. Whatever GCN shills will say, NO SEALANT CAN SEAL THE HOLE UNDER PRESSURE OF 120 PSI. At that pressure the sealant is bursting into space until all that remains is measly 3 bar of air which is insufficient to ride home safely even at pedestrian speed. Try to pump it up - and soon you'll find a limit of what the sealant can do at around 5-5.5 bar of pressure. Out of 4 frames I have, only one allows use of tyres wider than 25 mm, therefore narrow tyres and high pressures are a given in my case. That's first. Second, the cost of running is very well covered by your video. Sometimes you get lucky and get 1 puncture per year. Sometimes you get 8 punctures per month. Luck is unquantifiable. What really matters is that overall expenses are the same (give or take) with tubed and tubeless. With tubes you just waste another tube, with tubeless you are required to add fresh sealant every 3 months and sealant costs money and has an expiry date. In real life very few disassemble their wheels to clean the mess clogging up the inner space. This gooey mess adds unnecessary weight and blocks the ability for the valve to get fresh sealant and the air inside. One has to take the tyre off and get his/her hands dirty by cleaning the mess, which is what people don't wanna do, so they take their wheels to the bike shop to get in the queue and wait for the wheels for days - days of no riding. Third: burping. Once blown off, you know the pleasure of being sprinkled by sealant while laying on bloodsplattered tarmac. Tubeless tyres require hookless rims and these are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, because nothing keeps the tyre bead in place once the air pressure is gone. If somehow you are still able to ride home on your own, how do you fix the tyre that has burped without having a spare bottle of sealant at the moment? By installing a damn tube! There's no other way around. Bottom line: tubeless may have its place on mountain bikes, fat bikes, gravel bikes (if you aren't tall and/or heavy), but on the road tubes and tubulars still reign supreme. The best ride quality you get with tubulars, but those aren't particularly practical for every day use. Though, after puncture you can ride home without the air inside at all - it is safe to do so. Tubes with regular clincher tyres are the most practical and safe solution for every day Joe. No need to waste your time and money for something that gets promoted on such commercial channels as GCN and David Arthur. Heck, watch Durianrider instead. He's strange insecure guy living in unhealthy place, but unlike GCN or David Arthur, he actually cares about you.

[@reginaldscot165]

Amen 🙏🏻 to that brother! This comment gave me feels. 😆 I laughed at your reply to the fellow mechanic. 😉

[@likemarksee]

I agree that the maintenance of tubeless tyres is the biggest problem. On my TT bike for example, the sealant turned to mastic (couldn’t clean it) and I had to bin the expensive tyres that were hardly used. On my road bike tho., i used tubeless tyres on campag 2 way fit wheels (no rim tape needed) for 10 years nearly; and they were great without any sealant at all. And BTW, i use tubeless tape with tubes, because it’s good! One problem with some TPU tubes is that they are not suitable for rim brakes! I think tubeless tyres are safer than clinchers (excluding hookless, which are a joke).

[@reginaldscot165]

The RideNow say they work with rim brakes, I got my wheels so hot they would burn your skin but nothing happened to the tubes. 🙂👍🏻

[@likemarksee]

@@reginaldscot165 schwalbe aerothan tubes use a material from BASF which is heat resistant and suitable for rim brakes. Some of the Tubolito tubes are not suitable for rim brakes. I’m not sure I can trust the Ride Now tubes with rim brakes (for disc brakes i would try them). But also, the Ride Now tubes are not reinforced at the valve; the O ring they provide does not seem like a great solution (tho. TBH i’ve not seen a Ride Now tube in the flesh). For my training where speed is not important, light weight butyl tubes are what i normally ride. For racing, where cost is less important, i plan to try the schwalbe aerothan tubes. I hope we will have more TPU tube options in future, as the choice is quite limited at the moment.

[@mtbboy1993]

I had so many punctures before with tubes one month I got 28 punctures. 😁 That month that year I rode a lot, but changing tubes that often and running out of tubes was not for me. But I did not feel any difference swapping to tubeless, nor when losing air. But not tried road bikes. I know I could repair tubes I did that too. But at that rate it would be expensive. But back then the amount of glass on paths was crazy, it's not that crazy now, even saw jam jars in the forest. 🤦

[@reginaldscot165]

Ha ha 28! No way! That’s incredible. 😅

[@cjfetters]

wow, ok I think I am just going to keep tubes. Maybe switch to the TPU style.

[@reginaldscot165]

TPU works for me. 🙂👍🏻

[@robertpreato3891]

There are 3 technological advances that were necessary for MTBs but are totally unnecessary and even counterproductive on road bikes. 1)Tubeless tires (eliminate pinch flats when running low pressure which is not at all an issue for road bikes) 2) disc brakes (great for improved braking in off road grimy, muddy conditions when the rim can get covered in mud, not an issue for road bikes) 3) Thru axles, will prevent a wheel from coming completely out of the dropout if the skewer were to open and the bike is airborne, like on a drop or jump, not an issue for road bikes. Each of these three things are not only unnecessary for road bikes, they have drawbacks with zero upside and should be avoided. Following closely behind these three are 1x drive trains and quick engagement rear hubs for road bikes.

[@reginaldscot165]

Excellent comment 👍🏻👏🏻

[@MM-kt5dv]

They conveniently left out the valve stem in addition to sealant, so there's even more weight saved. On the topic of rolling resistance and 'ideal' tire pressures, I don't buy the data at all - first of all they do the tests using a round drum instead of a flat surface, which deforms the tire (contact patch) more, and differently, and second they use a lovely diamond plate pattern which does not even come close to representing real world conditions.

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes I’ve also seen the set up and it’s certainly not realistic, but it’s still useful information I guess if all tyres are tested on the same system? 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@xosece]

I don't like tubeless either, I prefer TPU tubes all the way. However, you mention that you like to ride fast and that you use high pressures on your tyres and this is in stark contrast with what I usually hear that the fastest tyres aren't those with higher pressures but those with the adequate tyre pressure for your weight, bike's weight and surface. Have you heard of that? There is a video on how to save 75W on using the correct settings for your bike and things like that, and another one titled something along the lines of "Your tires are lying to you".

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes when I say higher pressure I’m referring to the pressure needed to run 23mm tyres for my system weight. Around 96psi

[@mikequinn]

Lot of conjecture in this one. Been using tubeless on the road bike for about 5 years now without issue, Mavic UST rims and Mavic tyres, will seat without a high pressure initial inflation (which is why I went with Mavic). You talked about the suppleness of the sidewalls between tubeless and non-tubeless tyres, but no mention of running tubeless at substantially lower pressures, surely that will also change the suppleness between the two (or even them out). I have a front wheel with a dynamo hub that I do not use very often, was hanging up in the shed for about a year and I put it on the bike recently. There was no coagulated lump of sealant sitting anywhere in the tyre, and no affect on the handling. But maybe Mavic sealant is different, I guess that would be an easy one to prove/disprove. However, fair enough, you don't like tubeless. I do.

[@reginaldscot165]

Cool 😎

[@Necromonger69]

Where I live the roads are so ill maintained, so much debris I was getting punctures to my tubes to the point of frustration. Since I've gone tubeless, it's been great. Had one puncture and thats because a nail went through the tire and the rim, go figure. To each his own I guess. Ride what makes you happy.

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed 👍🏻

[@brianivak5127]

The other two drawbacks about getting a puncture on the road that you did not mention are: 1) It's more difficult to get the 'burst' of air needed to seat the tubeless tire onto the rim before adding the rest of the air (as small hand pump or CO2 cartridge may not provide that AND 2) The tire bead seems FAR more difficult to mount and unmount the rim due to the tolerance being much tighter (in most cases), and thus you'll need at least two tire levers, or maybe three, to effect a successful outcome!

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes that is another possible drawback 🤔👍🏻

[@markcarlton]

The elephant in the room of course is Tubular. Understood that your opinion is based upon your particular requirements, preferences, habits and criteria etc however to ignore the tubular out of hand is to deny what is arguably, on any objective basis, actually the best system for road bikes full stop!

[@reginaldscot165]

Tubular definitely has its benefits!

[@markcarlton]

@@reginaldscot165 yes, tubeless is a regressive step. I have ridden Tubulars for decades, have tried quality clinchers and tubeless in recent years and can confidently say that just because something is "the latest tech" doesn't make it better, it just makes it new. For road cycling good clinchers are perfectly acceptable but if you want the ultimate in fit for purpose and performance absolutely nothing beat tubular!

[@davidrock3959]

absolutely! voice of cycling reason 👍

[@reginaldscot165]

Nice 😎 I like the sound of that!

[@busken69]

Why compare tubeless with folding tire. How many use tubeless, they use tubeless ready tires. Of course they not have any sealant in a tubeless tire. The tubeless tires are heavier of course. You should compare TLR tires with "normal" clincher tires. Sorry for my bad English :)

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes I’m not sure I understand. 🙏🏻

[@vincewong3602]

Thank you for this. I started watching this video in around Feb when I got a new set of tubeless hookless wheels which I set up with GP5000 S TR and Orange sealant. I had them set up by a shop mechanic and on the 3rd ride the rear tyre burped sealant, which I thought was a lucky strike (bird shit). Many km later, last week my rear tyre blewout about 15 min after I aired it up to my spec 63psi (max is rated 73psi or 5bar , so my spec is well below what is recommended by SILCA PSI calculator). I thought it was because the sealant had dried out, so I put in 5 squeezes of Orange and aired it up to 50psi, again well below what SILCA calculated for my needs. I placed it in the bathroom for a day, it held air and was then good for 20km and a week. Today I aired it up again, trying for SILCA 63, and it exploded while on the electric pump. I had to clean up a good amount of cum-coloured shit and wondered what if that had happened when I am doing 45km down a hill with many bends. Today, after the rear exploded for the 2nd time I replaced both front and back with butyl tubes. What's interesting is at 50psi, tubes feel higher pressure than tubeless at 63psi. Also the tubeless system needed airing up every 2 days. I calculated that 5 minutes every 2 days for a year is 15 hours spent on pumping air into tubeless tyres. What a load of horse shit tubeless has been. Or hookless. I don't know which to blame yet - your thoughts? ps. It is a 26 internal width rim on 32c Gp5000 S TR tyres. Like 1mm out of spec (spec: 25mm internal width), not that this spec is mentioned anywhere officially

[@reginaldscot165]

I think the burping problem is the hookless. But in general tubeless doesn’t seem logical for time, money and convenience. Thank you for your comment and all the best! 👍🏻🙂

[@vincewong3602]

@@reginaldscot165 i'll always remember both times I heard the tyre POP. Like, defining moments in bike ownership. Should I sell these wheels? do like them Elite Drive 6 are wonderful to look at. Probably work perfect with tubes so keep them

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Same. Tubeless are for sheep going where they are led and monkeys mesmerized by shiny objects. A true thinking man would never go tubeless.

[@reginaldscot165]

Certainly not for road. I can see it’s use in MTB being a worthwhile investment.

[@infocuslearning]

If you go tubeless, the TPU inner tubes will still be useful in case of a catastrophic puncture.

[@reginaldscot165]

True….

[@BGS_123]

all valid arguments. But life is too short to be only riding on the tarmac. Arguably your life can get even shorter because of that. So tubeless is the way to go if you get dirty with a bit of trail

[@reginaldscot165]

For MTB 👍🏻 But currently I use tubes on gravel and so far never had a flat tyre.🙂

[@Jacob99174]

Darn, I thought Drake rode bikes Was highly interested to hear his perspective

[@reginaldscot165]

Sorry he stepped in front of my camera when I took the shot and I was out of film. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@Jacob99174]

@@reginaldscot165 hate when that happens

[@the.communist]

I will ALWAYS run tubeless on my mtb. I will NEVER run it on my road bike, if i had a gravel bike? Im not sure

[@reginaldscot165]

Seems sensible to me. I go tubes on my grave bike but I don’t ride it that often

[@twillyspanksyourcakes]

What I hate about tubeless road lovers is how they exaggerate having punctures like every few rides or some sht. Know how to seat tubes properly and inflate it according to your weight and tire width as well not using shtty tires and you're set for thousands of kms without punctures

[@reginaldscot165]

Tyre choice is certainly very important. I think I will be switching to something a bit more practical than the GP5000 soon unless I’m racing. 😁

[@panfilove]

Love the video!

[@panfilove]

Would be nice to see how each tube system looks on the wheel from the get go. I am not too familiar with tubeless systems. Would be best for comprehension.

[@panfilove]

One of the most crucial points 9:52

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you 🙏🏻 very

[@madyogi6164]

It's not just you, mate!

[@reginaldscot165]

Glad to hear I’m not alone 😁

[@madyogi6164]

@@reginaldscot165 LOL!

[@paulbrown4235]

Hell, WTF is tubeless? I’m still gluing on tubulars!

[@reginaldscot165]

Nice 👌🏻

[@supocarta74]

I only buy older second bikes and are happy using old technology.....rim brakes,innertubes outer cabling etc...as cycling is only one part of my day to day fitness as don't want to be a scrawny little snobby cyclist...

[@reginaldscot165]

Seems smart to me. 🙂👍🏻

[@leandrogonzalez9354]

if you go out and buy a 5.000 dollar bike.. with out without a credit card... then cost is not an issue..

[@reginaldscot165]

Interesting. 🤔

[@miked319]

Totally, totally, totally agree, tried the tubless system and hate it! Agree with all your points and just want mention that the tubeless tires alone can be a nightmare to mount, add that to the list! Thanks

[@reginaldscot165]

That’s very true, I can’t believe I missed that point. 😁👍🏻

[@Nivacromcolumbus]

@@miked319 100% right. A friend of mine can’t fit them, so every time he punctures he’s off to the lbs. Unbelievable

[@dragonnetx]

Never ever tubeless come across my mind. All my 3 bikes runs comfortably with tubes. Only occasionally I need to pump the pressure before the ride. No messy sealant all over the bike, no worries of replacing expensive dried out sealant. Almost maintanance free 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@reginaldscot165]

Excellent 👍🏻

[@TheRimBrakeGuy]

Tubeless. Another way the bike industry wants to convince cyclists that they solve a problem that never existed in the first place, and with the added complexity that is added for it. If it is not broken, don't change it. (but let's not kid ourselves, their PR departments need to find "innovation" even in the expense of the actual user, i.e. cyclist.)

[@stfu6397]

@@TheRimBrakeGuyexactly

[@poxcr]

@@TheRimBrakeGuy Let me guess, you're running a 10 speed with friction shifters because all this indexing crap the industry is pushing is too complicated and unnecessary? LOL.

[@peterwillson1355]

🙄​@@poxcr

[@DanTuber]

Agreed.Tubeless only makes sense for MTB large volumn, low pressure setups. For road bikes it's pointless.

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed 👍🏻

[@DaveCM]

Have you tired it? I've been running road tubeless for years. I have no intentions on going back to tubes.

[@DanTuber]

@@DaveCM no

[@DaveCM]

@@DanTuber Well, don't knock it until you've tried it.

[@DanTuber]

@@DaveCM Rarely get a puncture with tubes so why switch? It's extra expense i don't need.

[@Nosh_Feratu]

i'm pretty lucky that cost doesn't influence my choice on this issue, however, I still agree with you, after using tubeless for several months on a new bike build there are numerous issues that, on a road bike, are just a complete pain in the arse...changing tyres being one significant issue. Ive been using the Tubolito tubes for a good few years now and absolutely love them, they feel great and I have had hardly any punctures... plus theyre so light I carry two spares around just in case. Havent checked out the Ridenow tubes yet, will definitely watch your vid on those and have a look. cheers

[@reginaldscot165]

Excellent, sounds like you are doing something that works well for you. 🙂 Safe happy riding! 👍🏻

[@valmorell]

I used tubeless for 2 years but have now gone back to tubes (RideNow). Your experience pretty much mirrors my own, but at least I tried...

[@reginaldscot165]

Ha ha yes that’s true you did try. You get points for that. 👍🏻 😊

[@shenava]

I used to ride tubes until 2015 when I switched to tubeless. My experience is that when I had tubes, I was getting a puncture about once every 1000km on average. My first tubeless tyre was a bit rubbish but there wasn't a lot of choice back then. More recently I have found that the tubeless tyres, rims and sealant have become a better combined system. The last time I had puncture that required me to stop at the side of the road is 2018. What I can say is that I have substituted hassle at the roadside for hassle at home in the set up and maintenance. On balance, I prefer it this way.

[@peterharrington8709]

So, what is your setup? I personally run tubeless with my gravel bike but tending to agree with Reg about TPUs for road wheels. Be interesting to hear more about your success story though.

[@reginaldscot165]

Brother makes a good point. I’m glad it works for you and your lifestyle. 😊👍🏻

[@shenava]

​@@peterharrington8709 I am currently using Schwalbe Pro One TLE tyres and Silca Ultimate Tubless Sealant. It is a 2 part set up. 1st application you add the formula that contains the carbon strands and then subsequent top up applications is the latex fluid only to keep it liquid inside. Needs topped up 2/3 times a year. I just leave the dried up stuff inside the tyre. It seems to create a fairly even mess coated to the inside of the tyre, so don't see the point of cleaning it off until it is time to replace the tyre. My tyres do have little holes and slits in them, but the carbon/latex seems to be providing a good seal that holds pressure no worse than a new tyre. I run my tyres at around 70 psi.

[@n0ch91c3s]

​@@hughjanus7354no it hasn't

[@the.communist]

I barely have punctures with tubes, every now n then i might have one.

[@larrymcgoldrick3471]

I'm not going tubeless either. Wasted 2 seconds of my life looking into it, that just caused me to pull my tubes in a little closer and hug them a little tighter. LOL FOOLS! Thanks again for the great content.

[@reginaldscot165]

Ha ha great comment 😆

[@michaels8607]

exactly like everything that's marketed we should just spend our money on..

[@stephentait8734]

never had an issue with tubeless, i dont see what people issues are, its a bike like rim or discs, what ever works for you, guess i have just hit it lucky with the right tyre and wheel set up

[@julianmorris9951]

While out riding the other week I saw this guy having a puncture, how did I know 🤔 well the spunk shot up over his back🤣 I shouted “now you know how your boyfriend feels “🤣 before of course offering my assistance, he laughed thankfully and said I’m gonna change back to inner tubes 😊

[@the.communist]

@@stephentait8734 issue is, mainly, that tubeless thecnology doesnt work with high pressure

[@denethorpalantir2815]

I run Vittoria latex tubes with my GP5000s. Latex leaks like a sieve though and one must pump up tires before every ride, but I do that anyway. The performance is great.

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes latex can be lovely 😊

[@dickieblench5001]

Switch to Michelin latex. Hold air much better

[@chris1275cc]

Tubeless (on road) seems to work well for some and not for others. I've lost count the number of times I've got home to find sealant up my back and I just never knew I had even had a puncture during the ride, only ever had one that wouldn't seal on its own in 4 years but the tyre would have been a "walk home" even with tubes. If your rims aren't TLR and all you have is a low volume track pump to work with then its pretty big investment to find out, that probably isn't worth it. I'm not hookless though, that seems like one of those "works on paper" things rushed to market for all the wrong reasons.

[@reginaldscot165]

So your back is slowly becoming waterproof! Nice. 😁👍🏻

[@rothgartheviking858]

Nothing better than being sprayed by Sealant in a group ride. For this alone i run tubes.

[@chris1275cc]

@@rothgartheviking858 I'll take sealant spray over having to wait or hold off so that rider can change a tube.

[@feetwind]

The determining factor is pressure and volume. Putting like 70+psi through skinny road tubeless tyres is really testing the limits of how fast sealant can coagulate. If you have quite large (by roadie standards) 36mm tyres, maybe because your roads are shit and/or mostly unsealed etc, you'll have a quite nice ride running them at like 35-50psi. At those pressures and often larger volumes it seems pretty successful for the gravel bike crowd.

[@alinprema]

You just became my favorite bike mechanic on KZbin :). The amount of information and explanations is immense. I wasn't planning on going tubeless anyway, but now after this video i will never bother even thinking about it. TPU tubes will be the next i'll put on my wheels, currently running standard butyl with Conti GrandPrix tires (normal GPs, not 5000). Thanks a lot for your time invested in these videos where you really take your time explaining everything!

[@reginaldscot165]

My pleasure! Glad you found it useful. Normally people complain I talk too much. 😆

[@alinprema]

@@reginaldscot165 Not just useful. Lifesaving! :)

[@Aragorn.Strider]

I have been using tubeless for a few years now, and while once it is all setup I dont complain to much BUT. When I ride 2 days later, I must check tyre pressure, because probably I lost say 2-10PSI. The simple thumb press, gives a first ok good idea, but of course unsure. So I press the valve and a bit of air gets out... with a bit of sealant. I add the 2-10 psi and yay I can ride, ok. But do that say 2 months the amount sealant in my valve is so much, the air barely gets out. Sealant is excellent in sealing the valve! It means I need to change valve every few months. Also as you said the sealant gets dry and glued together and it wont seal, except the valve, which is the wrong thing. But also by then some more air gets through the tyre. If the sealant would be fresh no problem, but later thats an issue as well. When you then slowly get a puncture, there is no hole, but still doesn't work, because air through the tyre. So you still either call wife/parents/uber/long walk etc, or try get the whole thing of and switch with inner tube system. If you then wanne switch to inner tube, but the rim has these deep airo sections, and you have a standard butyl inner tube, it probably wont work. So check what you carry if that even works in an emergency. And also, these TR-tyres are hard as hell to put on and off, not like I cant, but its up to red hands and blister level. Knowing that, I rather walk say 5km, probably even 10km, then fixing the tyre. Sealant in valves, yeah thats my number one reason to get back even to butyl inner tubes

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you for your comment! Very useful information! 👍🏻🙂

[@meibing4912]

Your problem is your inefficient approach to tubeless. Like people who ditch waxing claiming it takes more time. I run tubeless because it saves me time - and value of time > money. A puncture in the wrong place can be incredibly time consuming. I spend 4 min. topping up every 4 months. No need to clean anything. After 18 months I just get new tires. Have my LBS fill it in when I change to new tires. So far never had a puncture that did not seal so I could not continue. Apart from all this is much better comfort wise - which it is a very big thing for lots of riders.

[@reginaldscot165]

Well yes if you don’t do the maintenance yourself then I’m sure it’s great! 😆 video to come on why I don’t wax my chain. 😅

[@meibing4912]

@@reginaldscot165 One stop at the LBS every 18 months seems like a good investment to me. YMMV. Happy cycling and enjoy a bumpy ride and oil stained fingers. 😄

[@WhaJMc]

If I was running narrow tyres at high pressures I would go with tubes. However these days I'm more interested in comfort than outright performance. I'm running tubeless on my mountain and gravel bikes and would not go back to tubes. I run quite wide tyres at low pressures even for my road wheelset (34c at under 50psi). Was out for a ride a month ago and noticed there was a piece of wire sticking out of my back tyre. I pulled it out and it sealed within half a second. I don't carry tubes with me any more. I do carry shoestring plugs but have never needed them. Have only had one puncture which did not seal itself. That was a gash from a piece of metal that effectively destroyed the tyre.

[@reginaldscot165]

Sure, for MTB or Low pressure it makes sense to me. 🙂👍🏻

[@charlesmansplaining]

I agree with you 110%. You made a strong case. I quit trying tubeless because almost every puncture I ever got never worked. You need a high pressure to ride a road bike and the sealant doesn't work to seal a puncture. The mess it made for me alone wasn't worth it. That shit goes everywhere. The industry wants you to use tubeless because it's more money for them. They actually screwed themselves for lying to me about tubeless because now I buy my tubes from China. 🤣🤣 I have a lot of tubeless valves and tape, special pump, etc., but I will never be tempted to do it again. I have been using TPU tubes this year so for and have yet to have a flat on the RideNow tubes. I bought a bundle which worked out to be a little over $7 US per tube. Good value in my book.

[@reginaldscot165]

That’s awesome 👏🏻 all the best with the new tubes and safe riding! 🙂👍🏻

[@harrypemberton4627]

Sounds like you were doing something wrong. Oh well

[@66mikkim]

Typical user error.....you dont NEED high pressure to ride a road bike! In a tubeless setup you need even less. Maybe you should have educated yourself before hand

[@charlesmansplaining]

@@66mikkim You should learn that condescending attitudes get frowned upon. I have more than 25 years with tubeless coming from a mountainbike backgraound. I used to set up tubeless when I had to cut innertubes to use the valve stem and we called it Getto tubeless. Road bikes are suppose to feel like road bikes not comfort bikes. I would never ride a road tire lower than 90psi. Not that long ago when I was on 23mm tires I used 120psi. If you use tubeless sealant and you ride in a group you should have to warn everyone so if the worst happens you don't get your mess all over other riders.

[@66mikkim]

@@charlesmansplaining this just shows that you have no clue how modern Road bikes are set up tubeless. Like I stated in a other comment here, I ride over 25km a year, and haven't had a tubeless tire fail on me since going tubeless 4 years ago....

[@emmabird9745]

Hi Reginald. Good vid. Totally agree. Car wheels/tyres are both hookless and tubeless and very sucessful but they have a heavy/stiff bead around their rims (a bit like a non-folding clincher) and they require a deep well in the rim to help fit them. Bike tubeless tyres apear to be foldable (I've never had one so I rely on what I see on videos) so they do not have that safery feature. Car tyres start leaking around the rim after a salty cold winter corodes the aluminium (not an issue in the tropics I suppose). The thing with hookless bike wheels and flexible tyre beads is that it is amazing that they ever stay on at all being as they rely on friction between the rim and tyre. I must admit I had not thought of the antisocial aspect of spraying your pals with sealant. Surely that is reason enough for us ordinary mortals to avoid tubeless. Keep your friends better that way.

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes and have you seen the machine they use to fit car tyres! Is had a mechanical turn table and a large wedge and a guy with a crowbar! 😁

[@emmabird9745]

@@reginaldscot165 Yes indeed, it is impressive. Imagine needing that for your puncture at the side of the road.

[@sarahtoustra7127]

Hello Social Tubeless Department, I need some guidance 🤣 You forgot to mention that you can run lower pressures with tubeless tires because you can't get pinch flats. That kind of defeat your argument about rigid sidewalls at 25:00 and your're supposed to get a more comfortable ride. At least that's what GCN&co claim. I've never run tubeless and probably never will (unlessl I'm forced to by companies no longer producing top tier tube type tires).

[@reginaldscot165]

Well running low pressure would go against my personal needs, also I find latex and TUP extremely pinch flat resistant. Basically if it’s a pothole big enough to pinch my tyre then I should Bunney hop or I just lost my carbon rim! 😂 Thank you for the view! All the best! 👍🏻

[@enigma1000]

I bought a Giant Defy which came set up tubeless 32mm. I was expecting a plush ride. I got a wooden ride. I tried pressures down to 50 psi. No material change that I could notice. I thought maybe it’s the Giant tyres. So I switched to 28mm Pirelli. Slightly better but not much. So disappointing. Then there’s the maintenance. You really need to add air for every ride. The sealant cost and maintenance is extra work. There is no weight saving. I haven’t punctured but haven’t ridden them a lot. You have to carry spare tubes, tyre plugs, tool to remove tubeless valves, tyre boots. I’m thinking of putting tubes back in. Those Pirellis were expensive…. So the promised gain in ride quality just doesn’t seem to exist. I almost feel deceived. A bit like buying a HD ready tv and discovering few HD channels without big subscriptions….

[@reginaldscot165]

I feel for your situation. 🙏🏻

[@dickieblench5001]

Total scam

[@tgo6551]

Great video! I also tried tubeless and hated it. The cost was never a factor - but I tried due to the hype/trend surrounding tubeless. My issue that drove me back to tubes was the amount of dried sealant that collected on the tire and I also would get small seeps of watery/oily liquid on occasion. I never felt any advantage in speed or ride comfort and did experience sealant spraying out all over after picking up a very small hole (which I thought the sealant should have taken care of). I can leave my tubes in for a long time without messing with them but have to replenish sealant - no thanks. George Vargas is a great dude so glad to see you give him some credit.

[@reginaldscot165]

Great comment, yes he’s very knowledgeable on many cycling subjects. 😁👍🏻

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Hey mate, you've chosen data for the Schwalbe tires from 2014 instead of the recent tests. Not sure if you did that to get data that agrees with your position, or just an honest mistake, but it unnecessarily misleads the audience. If comparing the Schwalbe tires you can actually buy today, the Pro One tubeless will weigh only 17g more per wheel and saves ~.6 watt per tire vs Latex tubes (if you accept 2 watts difference between butyl and latex @ 100PSI tested in 2022 in the article Top 3 Fastest Tubeless Road Bike Tires - Tubeless Vs Latex Tube (and Butyl)) . With GP5000 STR vs tube type you use, it's the same .6 watts per tire, but a bit more weight gain for tubeless. Not a huge difference in performance, but tubeless will still trend faster than latex tubes. That 'Top 3' article could be justification to drop ~2 watts from tube type tire data from the BRR charts when choosing a latex or very fast TPU tube, which puts tube type tires in a more competitive position for performance. I've been on hookless/tubeless for a few years now, and it's got pros and cons. Users really need to be on board with wider tires and lower pressures to even consider it. Solid rim beds will solve a lot of maintenance and mounting issues, at least until it's time to replace a spoke. Lots of poor performing sealants out there too. You gotta get your riding buddy RideNow tubes for spares. I carry 2 on all my rides and they pack so small. Only an extra few minutes to take off the tubeless valve and clean hands of most of the sealant vs a normal tube change.

[@reginaldscot165]

It’s the first data that came up when you ask for example “what’s faster tubeless or latex.” And as far as I know the tyres mentioned like GP5000/TL haven’t changed in weight or design. 🤷🏻‍♂️ However I will check up on that now. 🙂👍🏻

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@reginaldscot165 Cheers, 'Pro One TLE Addix 25' and 'Pro One (tube type) Addix 25' tested in 2020 are Schwalbe's current premium non-TT road tires. GP5000 S TR replaced the heavier TL.

[@tristano1998]

I already decided for me that the „tubeless“ option is not mine - long before you published this video. The points are: lower rolling resistance with latex inner tubes, lower weight, easier mounting of the tyres and much much less fuss with maintenance. Once i put up a tyre/tube combo i can use it for years, only pumping up regularly, but i can leave it standing around for months without problems. This „tubeless“ thing is the same with this „discbrake“ thing: Plain bullshit for road racing bikes. Just inventions of a marketing industry that has been instructed to find ways to get more money out of cyclists wallets! I am still waiting for somebody to explain to me why techniques in cycling had to be replaced that were good enough for more than a hundred years. Possibly just to make more money? Because if you believe that you „need“ a disc brake bike now, you habe to ditch your rim brake bike, even if it is still good enough to do its job mor many more years to come. - Have you seen the pictures of these fully detached tyres from the rims of a rider (from Bahrain Victorious) in this year‘s edition of paris roubaix? Rims (and probably the frame) fully broken and done. Absolutely stupid and idiotic to change oit the good old tubular tyres for a tubeless solution.

[@reginaldscot165]

I think you have the right attitude towards bikes and the bike industry in my opinion. 🙂👍🏻 Safe riding!

[@the.communist]

Tubeless doesnt work well with high pressure, the high pressured air shoots out through the cuts/holes, doesnt seal

[@reginaldscot165]

True

[@drivemenuts3011]

A lot of misinformation in this video. Todays best Schwalbe tubeless tyres have a rolling resistance of 8.1 watts at 90psi compared to the best Schwalbe clincher at 12.8 watts. A massive difference. The tubeless tyre mentioned in this video is old tech made in 2014. So tubeless is superior by a long way in terms of rolling resistance. The same goes for Continental. The Continental GP5000 25mm clincher is 221grams. The Continental GP5000 TR is 215 grams. A 25 gram tube or 30 mls of sealant make the weights identical. Again, the Continental GP5000 TL spec'd in this video is no longer produced. It was heavier because it had a layer of butyl painted onto the inside surface. It is as though research was put into this video with the intention of discrediting tubeless. In terms of safety, a foam insert can be placed inside the tyre which holds the tyre on during a blow out. When the tyre is inflated, this foam compresses into the core of the rim, preventing any additional rolling resistance. This foam adds 20 grams of weight to each tyre, and likely makes fitting the tyre more difficult. I'll be giving it a go next time I change tyres. I have run tubeless for 12000km now in Surrey, and have never had a flat tyre, and have had a single sealant squirting event where the sealant managed to seal the hole at 60psi, to later be repaired at home. That is the only time I have ever had to take a tubeless tyre off before the end of its life. Optimising maintenance takes experience, experiment and wisdom. I initially fit the tyre with Stans No leaks Race sealant. And then every six months, remove the valve core and top up the sealant with Stans No leaks Standard sealant (No need to remove the tyre). I don't use Muckoff sealant as it clogs the valves after a couple of months. There is no need to replace the sealant, just add more. 30 grams of sealent contains 25 grams of water, which evaporates away over time, leaving 5 grams. If this 5 grams sets in one area of the tyre, it is not enough to cause an imbalance of the wheel. The tubeless tape came installed on the wheel, and continues to work perfectly. So, similar weight, safety and maintenance/repair time, with superior performance. More expensive, but the compensation for that is that for every tubeless roadside flattie, a clincher gets 20 flatties......and did I mention superior performance. Total annual maintenance/repair time is similar, but with Tubeless, the maintenance/repair is routine/scheduled and happens almost exclusively at home.

[@reginaldscot165]

Not sure anything I showed in the video is misinformation? I checked again, everywhere I look GP5000 TL is listed as 300g in 25mm. If you want the TR it will cost you more and it’s still heavier than the standard gp5000. For the price of a TR i could buy and even faster clincher… Tubeless tyre sidewalls are stiffer by design and they are always heavier. It’s simply not possible for them to be faster than the clincher alternates, the technology is just simpler. It’s a trade off, if you want the added puncture protection of TL you will sacrifice weight and speed and pay more, much more and have more maintenance and more suffering when it goes wrong. Also I defy you to put a balanced wheel in a trueing stand with good quality bearing in it and stick 5g to the top of the wheel, it will roll to the bottom. And most people are going to be topping up their sealant, so it will become more than 5g for sure, also the water is not evaporating inside a sealed tyre, it would need to be leaking for that to happen, the sealant is setting because of the air in the tyre. If your tyre is airtight the water won’t be going anywhere as water molecules are bigger than air. Adding foam is just going to make you slower, so I’m not sure why you are arguing about the speed of tyres. 😁 As for flats, I run 35mm/37mm tyres on my gravel bike with tubes. Never had a flat… so what does that prove? Tyre choice and size is what is important rather than tubeless or not tubeless? 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@ap6584]

@@reginaldscot165 I have a 25mm GP5000 tubeless on my desk, weighs 253g.

[@stevebassett8944]

Info on video is great. BUT your hand movement is very annoying

[@reginaldscot165]

Probably

[@rayF4rio]

Good info, but I just cannot watch your hands for that long.

[@reginaldscot165]

I understand

[@hcw199]

Some guys like to add stress, complexity and expense to their lives. Tubeless hard pass from me!

[@reginaldscot165]

Yup 👍🏻

[@setandan]

2 years with tubeless.. going back to tube.. tubeless only works with low psi mtb tyre..

[@reginaldscot165]

Good info 🫡👍🏻

[@paulmorrison30]

I’m not willing to invest in a tubeless system but I have tried inner tube sealant which has worked for me flawlessly so far and I can’t really see the need to change as I’m not chasing marginal gains but just enjoy riding my bike.

[@reginaldscot165]

Good point

[@parkinkevin]

Tubeless is just better. And you are making it much harder than necessary

[@reginaldscot165]

Not an argument. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@jkk916]

Harder for you to believe in nonsense?

[@neilshannon9930]

I've been thinking of at least trying tubeless for a long time. Watched the odd video on it. Thought it looked like more of a hassle than what it's worth. Thanks for putting this one to bed mate. You showed us a lot of good reasons not to bother. The big channels and companies will tell you that you'll turn into flash gordon if you use tubeless and hookless, but I'm sure like everything else in the world, it's all about dollars and not sense. Besides that, I've bought the odd set of road tyres that were "tubeless ready" by mistake. You've nearly gotta be Arnold Schwarzenegger to get them on. Actually, I reckon all tyres have gotten tighter over the 5 or so years. I remember when tyres and tubes were easy to change.... Those were the days. Anyway, good job as always Reginald, we love your work

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you my friend I really appreciate that. 🙏🏻🙂

[@veganpotterthevegan]

No idea what the hassle is. It takes me an extra 2min to run a wheel tubeless outside of initial tape(plenty of people use tubeless tape with tubes these days anyway). That's far better than all the time lost to running tubes and getting flats

[@veganpotterthevegan]

@@lapisexilis2976 wow, you're an incredible detective!!!

[@peterwillson1355]

​@@veganpottertheveganYou don't get many flats if you put a decent amount of air in😂

[@peterwillson1355]

​@@veganpottertheveganyh, like most vegans, you don't waste time telling everyone🥱🥱

[@sa3key]

I whole heartedly agree! Screw tubeless. I just did a video about my choice of latex for me. Well done!

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you kindly! Safe riding! 🙂

[@stibra101]

Great video, same experience, I am riding only latex tubes and good cotton tires from Veloflex, Wolpack and Challenge and maybe one flat per year, actually glass cut, not puncture, there is no tubeless that will seal that big cuts. The feeling on cotton tires with latex tubes is far better that any tubeless I have tried.

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed and by the way that sounds like a great tyre and tube combination. 😍

[@fabianmolyneux2308]

Excellent summary. Presently, I have two bikes with one set-up tubeless and the other with latex tubes. For me the latex are way better in ride performance than the tubeless. Tubeless like tubed are not immune from snagging a flat. However, when it comes to such situations the success of tubeless is all down to the size of the hole, the running tyre pressure and the quality and quantity of sealant on board all working in your favour. In the event your tubeless set-up fails though it is a major pain on the road-side to sort out. Overall, I tend to feel a roadside hassle with a tubed wheel is way easier to deal with than a tubeless.

[@reginaldscot165]

Excellent comment, thank you. 🙏🏻🙂

[@mpw321]

Major pain to sort out? It is the same as with a tube at that point, albeit the inside of tyre has some sealant on it.

[@carlosgaspar8447]

and so often, with both tubeless or otherwise, riders often just get on their phone and call home...

[@jamesbuckley4659]

I switched to road tubeless three years ago and have ~15,000 miles of use. I use 25mm (optimal for the inner width of my rims) Schwalbe Pro One tires and typically run 90 psi front and 95 psi rear (though I have run as low as 70/72 psi). I've used various sealants and prefer Orange Seal Regular sealant. I've tried the endurance sealant and it does not perform as well (weeping at puncture sites). When using the regular sealant, I have NEVER had a puncture that required me to alter my ride or add air/CO2 to the tire. The sealant cleans easy with a bit of water (yes, I have been sprayed with sealant and it comes off quite easily). Adding sealant is very easy (deflate, remove valve core, add sealant, install valve core, inflate) as is changing a tire (use a basin to clean/remove old sealant). I use a Lezyne Pressure Overdrive pump to seat the tire bead. I've changed the rim tape (I use DT Swiss at proper width for my rims) with no problem. In my experience, a properly configured road tubeless setup is very reliable and easy to maintain.

[@reginaldscot165]

Looks like you had good luck with it. 👍🏻

[@kennethg9277]

People who get lucky with tubeless always credit themselves with "setting it up properly", but they're never able to understand that the crappest system in the world would- through force of probability- have a minority of people for whom it happened to work. It's about the sheer number of ridiculous tubeless fails people experience in the real world.

[@tongotongo3143]

They are paid to promote tubeless. Same with promoting helmets.

[@stanlee-eq7lu]

For some reason, tubeless sealent reminds me of Fix A Flat for car tires. And a caveat for Fix A Flat is that it's highly flammable.

[@reginaldscot165]

Flammable is always fun. 👍🏻

[@tomnanD3]

I just put 3,500 miles on two Conti GP5000 clincher and Ridenow tubes. NO FLATS. NO PROBLEMS.

[@reginaldscot165]

Lucky! I do get flats, but the problem here is the drivers in south east Asia drive their car tyres until they go bald. That covers the road in sharp metal wire. 😡

[@markmoreno7295]

I am still testing tubeless. Definitely more expensive. Yes, every 6 months I replace sealant. And what is most upsetting to me is the separate purchase of valve stems. But so far going on 2 years no flats. I do use Maxis refuse tires. Yes I do carry a spare tube. Yes, when I did use tubes, 5 minutes tops to replace. I had not heard of TPU tubes.

[@reginaldscot165]

Thanks for sharing 👍🏻🙂

[@ebikescrapper3925]

I run Marathon Plus tyres (not very light) and TPU tubes (light). Not the lightest but works for me.

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes it’s a good balance, strong tyre and TPU. 👍🏻🙂

[@michaelglidewell1524]

Agree with you on the hookless rims. The rest not so much but "different stokes for different folks" I ride MTB, gravel and road. My MTB and gravel bikes are tubeless and for the last four years so is my road bike (hooked rims!!!) In four years, I've never had to put a tube in, never changed the rim tape. I carry a spare tube, extra sealant, a plug kit, CO2 and a pump. The spare tubes I used for my riding buddies but never myself. I've plugged my MTB and gravel bike tires often (2-3 times a year) and maybe once or twice my road bike in four years. Yes there is some preparation/work involved with tubeless but properly done it's at home and not on the road. You need to watch some of these MTBers, with a plug and CO2 at the ready they can plug a tire, air it up with CO2 and be back riding/racing in seconds (rim never comes off the bike). Actually I've never taken a rim off the bike out on a ride to fix a flat since going tubeless. Finally regarding the occasion squirt of sealant when you get a puncture well that is the same if put sealant in your tubes (as you mention in at about the 12 minute mark in the video). I recall washing my bike for the first time after going tubeless and on the back of the seat tube is a light coating of gunk and I realize it's sealant and I start laughing because I never knew to slow down much less stop. Before going tubeless I went thru about 4-6 tubes a year.

[@reginaldscot165]

Good points of experience. 👍🏻

[@Steven-zs1zm]

I wish had your insight 2.5years ago, as I laboured through using tubeless, had 3 instances I had to call the other half to pick me up, because I just did not want to phaff around with sealant all over my hands, the shame of not being able to mount the tyre on the rim and finally wasting the CO2 canister trying to reseat the bead on the side of the road. Tubeless works for lower pressures but for road........... Tubeless and hookless are just marketing strategy ideas. Manufacturers just want you to part with your cash, for the latest developments or the next big thing.

[@reginaldscot165]

Unfortunately it seems to be the reason. Sorry you had a bad experience. 🙏🏻

[@TimeHunter2305]

Thank you for sharing your experience and views it definitely puts things into another perspective. I've been thinking of buying a road bike for a while and I will keep this in mind. On my commuter bike I use a combination of tubeless ready tires and a inner tube didn't care about the tubeless feature I just chose them because they offer a good puncture protection with woven fabric in-between tyre walls.

[@reginaldscot165]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks 😊

[@tomnanD3]

I want nothing to do with tubeless, integrated cockpits, disc brakes, carbon wheels. What I worry about is, is the industry going to force this crap on us?

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes, yes they do… just like the government and poison for profit…

[@ddahstan6876]

So far, using tubes is perfect for me-- takes only a few min to change tube, no squirting mess, no time consuming and hardly getting any flat in a few years now after using Continental Gatorskin or Gatorhardshell tyres. Used to ride with a 23mm but changed to 25mm/28mm-- huge difference, especially in wet weather and my hard ass. I barely weight 100lbs, so it helps getting less flats also😊. Using tubes is also CHEAP!!!!! A Weldwood Contact cement jar at a hardware store and a throw away inner tube for patches are a lifetime of supplies!! Have said No mess yet?? 😅 Tubes Saving Club here for life... for now. 😂😊

[@reginaldscot165]

Awesome, thanks for the comment. Very sensible. 🙂👍🏻

[@jmac9205]

I think both option work great, no big need to change one for the other. That being said, wider tires and lower psi gives more comfort with minimal performance loss. Any serious cyclist that rides 5+ hours a week would most likely be willing to sacrifice an hour of extra maintenance and an extra $50 for more comfort if they’re putting that much time on cycling so I don’t see that as a good argument. Any hole or puncture I’ve ever had that’s big enough for tubeless not to work, would probably also not work for a latex tube as the tube pokes out the tire and burst until the tire is fixed (other tubes may work, but latex is the fastest if you’re running tubes and are competitive cyclist). You also run the danger of pinch flats on installation with tubes, which can also lead to tire blowoffs 1/5/20 miles into a ride, I know multiple people this has happened to and crashed. Sure, this can happen with tubeless too, just saying this is a risk to both

[@reginaldscot165]

Yes 🙂

[@mrichards55]

I agree with you for once 👍 Don’t get me started on hookless rim rubbish too.

[@reginaldscot165]

Nice 😊

[@jeffreyrose7823]

I used Tubeless in the 90's when I 'Crit' Raced, I had 2 sets of wheels,1 with a fine metal mesh in tires for training rides, and 1 set for Race Day, I had No problems then, If I got a Flat, peel the tire off,reglue ,CO2 cartridges and center the Tire put it on, wait a for minutes and off I went, maybe. Their different now, I'm planning on getting a Road Bike and probably will Use them again

[@reginaldscot165]

Tubeless in the 90s? Do you mean tubs? (tubular tyres)

[@bikingchupei2447]

the Giant TCR i bought this year came with a tubeless setup, changed them to gp5000 32c clincher tires with butyl inner tubes, just had my first flat which was a pinch flat 2 days ago, if i were still on the stock tubeless system, the flat wouldn't have happened, that being said, i still don't want to go tubeless, just the fact that i have to periodically refresh the sealant is something i don't want to deal with.

[@reginaldscot165]

Sounds like a sensible perspective to me. 🤷🏻‍♂️👍🏻🙂

[@johnlondon7620]

Yes, tubeless needs maintenance. Just like everything else on a bike. Either I'm extremely lucky or they (tubeless) work. Brought my bike in for maintenance and the mechanic showed me 8 punctures in the tubeless tires. I never even knew it. That is 8 tubes at $10/USA and that is not cheap for all those tubes. Also, it is hot and humid where I live, and nothing drives more nuts in changing tubes (which I did for 30 years). Plus, some clinchers are extremely hard to take off and put back on. I have both systems. During the hot months, I will use tubeless. You bring up a lot of good points which are monetary base which makes all the sense in the world. I value the non-monetary value of not stopping in heat and changing tubes. Also, you brought up that if a tubeless tire is slashed it is over. I would say the same with tube tires. Pros and cons for each system and I would say that tubes have more pros. However, not dealing with flat tubes is just fantastic.

[@reginaldscot165]

Good points 🙂👍🏻

[@barrytantlinger1033]

Why wouldn't you patch your tubes?

[@reginaldscot165]

@@barrytantlinger1033 I was also thinking the same.

[@manueldeubler1127]

@@barrytantlinger1033 Putting to many patches on a tube has caused wheel chatter to me on more than one occasion. That was caused by a wheel imbalance on light wheels. Not very much but noticable at speeds around 40 kph. Additionally, putting 8 patches on a tube seems silly to me. Just another point of failure on a performance bike.

[@johnlondon7620]

@@barrytantlinger1033 One, latex tubes can't be patched. Never used a plastic tube. By the looks of it they are very expensive. Ignore the cost factor... Again, when it is hot/humid or cold/freezing I just don't want to deal with it. (I sweat really bad.) If you are cost sensitive that is fine go with tubes. To ME I don't like dealing with removing tires (and certain tires are extremely hard to remove, and you need to carry a tool just for that) as that take can a lot of time. And, if you are in a group ride everyone is standing around waiting for you and itching to go. I do group rides all the time and have dealt with several flats this year alone. The riders struggled to get the tire off the rim. Wasted 15-20 minutes dealing with that. Then the tube needs to be installed and hopefully the tube doesn't get pinched. If that occurs, you are down to patching. More time wasted. I do carry a patch kit with a spare tire. Just more time wasted and prayed the patch holds. Then what do you do when you get home? Replace the patch tube or keep riding on it? I assume you are riding with a steel frame and a threaded fork too. They have working on tubeless tires since the 1990's and now they work really well now cost beside the point.

[@stevengarcia4217]

In depth! you brought up some good points and scenarios that we don't ever hear about...such as riding behind someone w/ tubeless setup, getting a cut in their tire and the fluid slinging on you and all over the rider!! what a mess that would be, and in that case they would need to have a spare tube + installation tools + pump or CO2 anyways....Yeah thanks for this video it explains a lot!!!!

[@reginaldscot165]

You are welcome and thank you for watching. 🙂🙏🏻

[@doc-slider5345]

A tire once fell off the rim in my living room. Sealant everywhere. Since then I've been riding tubes again. For me, tubeless and hookless are just dangerous ideas from the bicycle industry. With normal tubeless tires I have the feeling that they bounce off tires faster than with a tube. The tubeless tires on motorcycles are heavy and are not easy to install. The TPU solution for bicycles is definitely usable.

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed

[@gulfcitynd]

Sealant in the tube yes it's heavy but it works

[@reginaldscot165]

👍🏻 thanks 🙂

[@adrian21090]

I have Ride Now tubes.They feel supple on the road but there have been a few issues. The plastic valve stems are fragile. I suggest using a CO2 pump on the road. I get far more punctures with TPU tubes than butyl tubes - even in the summer. Blame our lousy potholed roads. Nearly all my punctures were pinch flats (28mm tyres running at 80lbs pressure). IMO, Ride Now TPU tubes and fastish tyres would be wonderful for smooth European tarmac in the summer months. Last winter I switched to butyl tubes and Conti 4 Seasons tyres and had no punctures. Of course this is not going to be very fast but it is a good compromise for winter training rides.

[@reginaldscot165]

I use 4 seasons and Ride now 24g TPU and I didn’t get any flats for months and still nothing. But when I used TPU and GP50000 I got 1 flat ever 1-2 months. (Mostly from bits of metal from worn car tyres) I think it’s interesting that the GCN style propaganda told us that fatter tyres don’t flat as often, especially pinch flats. But that doesn’t seem to be the situation? I run 23s at 96 psi and the last time I got a pinch flat was 2 years ago, because I got it on camera. 😂 it was on traditional tubes. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@josephpangilinan6916]

Also suffered bad experience going tubeless just recently, that's why, I'm back again to inner tube! I will try the Latex or TPU to improve the rolling resistance. Still using the TLR tire until it wears out. Thanks for the info! GOD Bless!

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you kindly Sir! All the best. 🙏🏻

[@Nehpets1701G]

Awesome content 👍 I gave up on the tubeless mess, so drained the sealant and I'm now running TPU tubes in my tubeless tyres (Pirelli P Zero Race TLR). Seems to work fine. It's cool that you can run TPU at lower pressures than butyl and latex, I'm running the same pressure as I was with my tubeless setup and it's a very comfy ride. No punctures in the last 2000 miles - I'm not sure if tubeless tyres are a bit more rugged than the equivalent tubed version so will have to think carefully whether to replace the worn tyres with tubed or tubeless version. I'm not a weight weenie, so don't mine using heavier tyres if they roll well and are more resilient.

[@reginaldscot165]

Normally TL tyres are less robust because they move material to the side walls because the glue is supposed to stop any flats. If you want (in my opinion) the best all round tyres, I’d go for the Conti 4 seasons tyres. Amazing wet grip, long life, not slow or particularly heavy (I know people who race on them and do well) and amazing protection against flats. 🙂👍🏻 If you enjoyed the video please do pass it on and don’t forget to like and subscribe if you haven’t. Thank you! ❤️

[@razorree]

2 Ridenow exploded on my bike ! one during an ascent (i'd be in hospital for long if it happens on a descent), another one, while I was sitting nearby and drinking a beer (there was no sun!). there are some weaker spots at tube joints which expand/get thinner and weaker over time. I'll never use them again. no probs with Tubolito though.

[@reginaldscot165]

That’s unlucky! 😱

[@Chris._P._Bacon]

Me too.......I bought a set of Token Konax Pro tubeless ready, I took the sticky plastic and put cloth rim tape and a light inner tube with GP5000. After finding out what a mess and pain tubeless can be, I opted for a no go.

[@reginaldscot165]

Cool 👌🏻 🙂

[@lawrenceubell9596]

I agree w you 100%, all your points, which are good and make sense, just reinforces my opinion that tubeless tires are not worth the hassles, thanks for the video.

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you. I appreciate the support. 👍🏻🙂

[@idlerfang]

My setup runs 28mm and up only, @~65psi or lower per my weight, and so far I've gone thru tires from Specialized, Schwalbe and Goodyear for more than 2 yrs and 20000km on road. I'd like to say all the maintenance cost is true, but so as the result. I've only got puncture beyond fix once, and it turned out to be my rim got cracked jumping over a curb. And I ride 'recklessly' thru all the manhole covers, cracks on road, speed bumps, etc. IMHO if you use narrower tires, needed higher pressure or ride your bike less than twice a week, get TPU/latex setup. Otherwise, you may consider to accept the cost of maintenance at home/LBS for more trouble free rides on road.

[@reginaldscot165]

Interesting points. 👍🏻

[@leomaduro8661]

I run tubeless on my car and motorcycle, for ages, like anybody else, without sealant. The reason why the system does not work well on bikes and why you need the sealant is because the area where rim and tire meet is so minimal that it cannot hold air on its own, and you need the sealant to compensate that. Along comes the messy story when you have a flat! I run sealant within the tubes on my MTB, for years, no problem. My road bikes? Never. Just thinking of the cost of changing the entire stock (10 bikes) makes me sick, and for what? At 1 or 2 flats a year, I don't even bother...

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed

[@DavidtheDoom]

Tubeless tape calculation is flawed, buy Tesa 4289 tape (Same product as Stan's Notubes, tubeless tape), 66 m for less than 20 USD. I only use this tape on my bikes regardless of tubeless/tubes.

[@reginaldscot165]

I looked for the tape available on wiggle sold for 2 wheels only. 🙂

[@greggarrett7409]

with smaller tires, ie 23-28mm I'd never consider tubeless. 32 and above...yes, it works great. didn't know they still produced tubeless in the smaller size. for me it more a consistent maintenance issue ------- keeping the sealant in there every few mo, hole fixing tech on the road, that sort of thing. tire compatibility is key, with the rim. thats the reason for most failures. that and pressure above 70lbs is asking for trouble. they run great and fast at lower levels, but stay away from cheaper tires...and rims.

[@reginaldscot165]

Good comment and I agree, for gravel and MTB they make perfect sense. 🙂👍🏻

[@YiZongOng]

One of the big reasons why I don't get roadies going tubeless is your although you're getting a "lighter weight setup", your spare kit gets significantly heavier. Not only do you have a pump, a spare tube and tire levers, now you have to carry a plug, bacon strips, a small knife, potentially some more sealant too. Inevitably, if you're really f*ed, you'll be getting a tube in anyway. Also, for yearly maintenance, you'll now NEED to remove the tire, clean out the tire and then replace the sealant. Whereas with tubes, just top up the pressure and you're all sorted. Not to mention, there's ZERO risk of mess. On top of that, your home tools now need to have sealant remover, a shock pump to seat your tires, tubeless tape and valves. Risk of punctures riding road compared to gravel or mtb are significantly lower. Not to mention due to higher pressures in skinnier tires, the tires are harder to seat and lose pressure quicker in the case of a puncture -- you'll need to pump more even if it's a minor puncture. Too spenny a setup for what you get out of it especially riding road. Cost to benefit ratio for this choice just doesn't add up for me. For ref, I ride road/gravel with 38mm tires with tubes. No issues with setup so far.

[@reginaldscot165]

Excellent points well made! 🙂👍🏻

[@50gary]

I have tubeless tire on my car and all my motorcycles, not in any of my bikes. When they can do tubeless with equal or less weight, and equal or greater safety, and equal cost, I'm in. I use Veloflex 23mm tubular tires on my number one bike (Scott Addict 2008 old but very light) carbon fibre rim brake wheels 54mm 120 psi and they are fast, 1398 gms. Use Tufo tape for mounting never use glue. This will be the fifth season on them why would I go tubeless?

[@reginaldscot165]

Funny how car tyres are tubeless and cheaper and more reliable than bike tyres… however they do still suffer from steel nails as my wife discovered recently. 😁

[@razorree]

putting a tube (TPU for example) on a tubeless tire (with a puncture) is the same, just a bit more messy, but it takes the same 5 mins....

[@reginaldscot165]

Perhaps, but how long does the mess take to clean up of your hands… clothes and bike?

[@CanonFirefly]

Reg, go wider mate. Wider tyres are faster, more comfortable and safer. Best of all, they work A LOT better with tubeless. 28mm is the narrowest I would consider on a road bike. When I ran tubes I'd get at least a couple of flats a month. Tubeless, no flats in years. There is no comparison. Yhe difference is so night and day that it is very hard to take anyone arguing againt tubeless seriously at all. TPU are a great backup tube for emergency as they take up very little space, which is great because I never use them 😂

[@reginaldscot165]

I’m yet to test the theory that wider are faster, my guess is they aren’t. (Depending on the road conditions I ride.) and as I have no intention to go tubeless (and run super low pressures) then I don’t think wider, heavier, less aerodynamic tyres are for me. But I’m glad you like your kit and happy cycling to you! 🙂👍🏻

[@fatterthantheshad0w]

I went tubeless when I upgraded my wheels to deep section carbon. They are tubeless ready clinchers not tubeless pacific wheels. An absolute dog to seat GP5000tl. I’ve sealed some leaks mid ride, I’ve also made the call of shame😂😂😂. I’ve decided to go back to tubes, I’m waiting for my ride~now’s to land. I commute by bike in the summer, ok an Uber could get me there. I’ve entered ride London 100 and the thought of having to abandon after all the faf and expense of staying in London. No way.

[@reginaldscot165]

I hope you enjoy your new tubes. I wouldn’t recommend them with GP5000 for daily rides, maybe something with a bit better protection like a gator or 4season. For racing definitely GP5000

[@tedjohnson64]

Fascinating analysis, especially liked the second part (mechanical drawbacks)! This is the first time I’ve heard of balancing bicycle tires with weights (for high speed mountain descents). I’m surprised that’s a thing.

[@reginaldscot165]

It’s a surprisingly important thing, especially when you hit speeds in excess of 70kph. 😁 Thank you!

[@tedjohnson64]

@@reginaldscot165 In hindsight, that makes perfect sense. When I used to ride fast downhill (my record is 52mph, or 84kph), it felt very chaotic (eyes watering wildly, handlebars vibrating quite strongly, wind roaring past my ears) and I thought "well, of course! What did you expect?". Later I realized that I could have reduced the eye watering effect... if I used wraparound sunglasses (like the pro's) instead of regular sunglasses. And now (from you, thanks!) I realize I probably could have reduced the handlebar vibration significantly if I'd had my wheels balanced. The wheels seem fine otherwise (no wandering, no vibration) while at more normal speeds, so it never occurred to me to that they might be out of balance. Of course, at 2x or 3x faster rate of revolutions, the vibrations are going to be proportionally (or perhaps even non-linearly) magnified. Cheers!

[@TaborKelly]

Great video. I have three bikes and the only one that is setup tubeless has 27.5x2.25" mountain bike tires on it that I ride through goat head territory with 18.5 PSI.

[@reginaldscot165]

Thank you kindly! That seems very sensible to me. 😁👍🏻

[@meyerjac]

Tubeless is great for mountain bikes. For road bikes, especially commuting, it makes utterly no sense. It takes 5 mins to change a tube and 10 mins to patch one. I've had 3 year old inner tubes with 10 patches on them before they finally failed.

[@reginaldscot165]

That’s the way I see it. Cheap, easy, it works… why change to tubeless. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@onniegranados8489]

Been commuting with tires with tubes in them for 30+ years. I can swap out a tube in a tire in about three minutes, in the pounding rain. Haven't had to do that much, because I've got tire sweepers on my commute bikes. Make them out of some recycled broken spokes and plastic tubing. I've read through some of the comments from people who have "switched" to tubeless tires (tyres) and my gut reaction at this points is -- I don't want to ride with you.

[@reginaldscot165]

Agreed 👍🏻