TUbliss long-term review after 7 years with the tubeless tire system!︱Cross Training Enduro

[@crosstrainingenduro]

UPDATE: I just had an air leak develop from the valve stem on the high pressure tube (two year old tube). One of the other guys did too but it was a near new tube. FURTHER TIPS! Follow the instructions! We suspect most reported problems are from ignoring instructions. Duh. If you put a sealant like Tyre Slime inside the tyre carcass, it provides lubrication so you can run even lower air pressures if needed. Below 4psi, the inside of the tyre carcass can rub against the red plastic and gradually wear it away. But Tyre Slime provides lubrication and prevents this. Of course, it can also fix minor punctures too. To make fitting much easier, you can use soapy water or silicon spray. Tyre Slime is messy but can perform the same function. We tend to do that as it minimises the chances of a poor seal with the knobbby against the rim if you have any internal scratches or deformities on the rim. As with any normal tube... ensure that small knurled nut is not tightened to the rim as it can cause the stem to tear where it joins the tube if there is any movement. But also make sure the nut for the rim lock is tight enough. One of our riders had a failure when he didn't tighten this and eventually it moved just enough to rip the valve stem out of high pressure tube.

[@WildAzzRacing]

I was going to mention running Slime just for lubrication when running really low psi. Good job!

[@michail1963]

I have years of experience with the Tubliss and I always spray about 200-250 ml of soap water around both tyre beads and almost all gets into the main chamber…acts perfectly as lubricant and sealant and not as messy as slime…dont protect against small punctures though

[@1Beetlegeuse]

I had tubliss for a year or 2. One issue is tyre choice. Bunch of people had issue as I found out with the same rear I was using, a Motoz Arena Hybrid. Seal on the bead wasn't great as maybe some tyres expected use is with tubes. I'd lose pressure on the low side after a couple days. Not really a big deal but it annoyed me. Looked for leaks with soapy water and couldn't find any until I left it half an hour and found super fine bubbles all around the bead on the rim. 150mls of Stans fixed it though it can get in and block up the valve sometimes.

[@davehowe_just_an_old_dirtbiker]

BTW, make note that the Dunlop AT81 front tire does not work well with Tublis. That's right from the guys at Tublis when I called and said I couldn't get it to hold air very well.

[@solartherm]

@@davehowe_just_an_old_dirtbiker hummm? is that why i use stan's race sealant in my tubliss? 🤔 I've got a high pressure tube that is at least 6 years old and still works fine The tubliss system makes tire changing super easy

[@Lost1Byte]

I ride in the Desert Southwest of the USA and the TUbliss system is a game changer for those pesky cactus spikes and other things that would make having a Tube tire a pain. I just carry a plug kit and a super small air pump and all is good. It is good to hear of a long term review. I have been running it for about 2-3 years now on my Beta 390 and now my Xtrainer.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear, judging by comments most of us have no issues... and I suspect that those who do will mostly be due to incorrect fitting or not following the instructions in some way. There were occasional issues with the very first TUbliss a few years back but they changed the design rapidly AND provided good customer support to anyone affected.

[@DAVIDTORRESANI]

Silver city N.M Same here..

[@Lost1Byte]

@@DAVIDTORRESANI I am in Las Cruces

[@DAVIDTORRESANI]

Very nice! Lol Graduated 06' Bulldogs. LCHS Right on. I moved last year from Cruces. I was off Telshore. Small world. Safe riding man. Ill be in L.C this week. Where are you riding? Towards Onate?

[@Lost1Byte]

@@DAVIDTORRESANI I live south of the University Golf course. I may do some practice over south of A mountain.

[@brianlafollette7530]

Used them for about the same amount of time. Never put any of the stickers on, ride them on the road with "normal" air pressure, not had any problems. Knock on cranium(wood).

[@cokecruzb]

I used Tubliss for a couple of years and I really liked it. One additional benefit is that because you can use way lower pressure, in very loose terrain you use all the contact area of your tire and not only the grip is better, but also the tire lasts a lot longer, since you use all the knobies more evenly. I finally move to mousse though, because of two situations that have little to do with the product itself: 1) Many mechanics didn't want to change tires because they didn't know the product and didn't want to risk damaging it (... lazy bastards!...) and 2) The valve on the inner tube broke one day and I couldn't get a replacement in my country or literally anywhere that shipped internationally!! Mousses are a lot more common and easy to find.

[@EnduroTrailRiding]

lazy? why don't you change your own tires then..

[@cokecruzb]

@@EnduroTrailRiding Because a good mechanic should do it better and quicker (plus he gets paid for doing it) and I prefer to spend my free time actually riding, or with my family.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

ONE MORE LONG TERM COMMENT! As per the vid our group absolutely loves the system. And wev'e only had two failures with six riders over seven years. (As per the vid, one was poor fitting technique, the other was racing in a hard enduro over very sharp rocks with low air pressure). We've just had one more, Jeff's high pressure tube in the rear wheel deflated. He pulled it apart keen to see what had failed as it's only nine months old. It turns out he hadn't tightened the nut for the rim lock. The rear knobby very gradually moved and eventually the valve stem wore through against the rim. So rider error, not the TUbliss system. Did the lock nut slowly back off perhaps? Possibly. I checked mine and the front nut wasn't very tight. Good idea to check them a few times a year!

[@morrjeff]

Yeah, it was a muppet error not tightening up the rim lock enough. Now, I check the rim locks every time I check the spokes (which is only when I sell the bike)

[@dansmith4392]

Ran it in the rear for years with very few issues, love the flexibility of different pressure with zero risk of slip + plus dead easy puncture repairs. Always keep a spare high pressure bladder in my kit bag, they’re not expensive

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear, Dan

[@martinzorro640]

Llevo utilizando tubliss por los últimos 6 años. En mi caso amo el sistema. Sobre todo en la rueda trasera, donde acostumbro usar muy poca presión (alrededor de 5psi) En todos estos años me paso de pinchar la parte interna roja solo 1 Vez con un clavo de 10cm (que hubiera destruido cualquier sistema incluido un musse) El único “problema” es que tenes que prestar más cuidado al armado/desarmado. El resto ventajas. 👍🏻 Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷

[@trevorharper5151]

I have run TUbliss for about 3 years now. Thought it was the perfect setup for the style of riding I do from the moment I fitted them. Have had a few tyres that refused to stay inflated for more than a few days but they have always stayed inflated for the ride so not really a problem as you should be checking the pressures for each ride anyway.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Same here, I had a puncture that didn't really fix up that well but it would stay up for the ride and that was all I needed....

[@martincantwell2557]

been running 2-3psi on Metzler tyres with tubliss for 5 years with zero issues because of the heavy sidewalls...did puncture with a Michelin tyre once as they are much lighter, so would probably advise running them around 5psi. Unbeatable traction, and easy to install once you follow the instructions to properly

[@orangektmkid]

My riding group has been running tubnliss for several years as well now. Similar experience to yours. We love it.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear!

[@nvmcrider8475]

I ran tubliss for about a year and had three issues. Once I got a nail all the way through the tire and into the tubliss tube that left me stranded. 2. Seemed about half the time I changed tires I would have a low pressure leak, resorted to using generous amounts of slime. 3. You can still get flats, although easy to repair, you need to carry a pumps and plugs. I prefer mousses, you can modify them to get the desired feel “pressure”, you never need to check air pressure, and it is impossible to get flats, no need to carry any tire equipment. In fairness to Tubliss, their equipment is quality made and probably the best choice for track racing where you need to change/run lower pressures for max traction.

[@bradsanders6954]

A friend melted a Mousse out in the desert, the mess that created was hard to imagine. Its not impossible for a Mousse to fail. If they are used too long and get old they can be way loose inside the tire and totally go to $hit. The mousse needs to be taken out and lubed every 3 or 4 hard rides in the desert. Personally I would never do that. They are a race only item for most.

[@jordanh9210]

Been running tubliss on my dualsport, easily best upgrade I've done. You need 100g front and 120g rear tire weights opposing the blue valve to balance the wheels out but once you do that they work great on the road and I haven't had any issues at all. 10/10 nothing quite like being the only one in a group that doesn't get a flat.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I detest fixing punctures, Jordan. And I hate changing tyres lol. So this has been a great compromise between tubes and mousses for me...

[@simonmorse9634]

A quick question Jordan. The balance of blue valves would still be easier than having to balance the rim lock on a tubed tyre? I get a noticeable shake on smooth roads but never have attempted to balance things out.

[@offercanfi]

Same here, 0 issues and total flexibility in air pressure. I did encounter a massive front wheel bounce at 100kph on asphalt but it vanished after adding proper weights to balance the wheel. Actually I only balanced the front but the rear is on the list, didn't quite feel it's bounce i guess or just lazy.

[@eag8999]

I run em on my dual sported Beta 300 and they are great on or off road from 3-26psi. DOT is the lowest of low standards; it would be foolish to worry about not having a dot stamp on something inside of your tire.

[@craighoffman6876]

I run TuBliss on the front tire of my Husky 701 Enduro, with the wheel static balanced for the rim lock. On the rear I sealed the spokes and taped the rim and am running it "tubeless" as I don't lower the tire pressure on the back tire below 24 PSI. I like to lower the front when off road, and having the TuBliss is great for that.

[@RodNeufeld]

My real concern about the tubliss system for the road is not the police but rather the insurance agent. If I have an accident even if it is not my fault I could conceivably held responsible because I was running non DOT approved tire system. You know how insurance is always looking for a way of not paying out no matter how insignificant the reason. This is the only reason I am stuck with using tubes on the dualsport.

[@raddestraven]

Concern or worry?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Yes that sort of thing is always a concern nowadays, Rod

[@Cee-FJedi]

Been running tubliss for 7 years on multiple bikes and love it. I definitely agree with the tyre slime method or similar alternative options around the rim. I also use silicon spray on any areas that can rub like the red inner liner and the inner tube where it slightly kinks around the air valve etc. I run around 4psi with Michelin Xtreme rear and 8psi front Michelin medium. Thanks for the video. Cheers.

[@sliceofbutter6766]

Hey you think tubliss can be installed if rim is slightly dented?

[@Cee-FJedi]

@@sliceofbutter6766 i cant see why not as long as no air can get in between tyre and rim etc.

[@artfulalias3984]

I've been using tubliss for a few years. Its been great. I have had a rear that goes flat overnight, even though I used a new tire and follow the instructions meticulously. If it happens in the future I'll try the slime trick on the bead. I run some goop in the tires. The goop I choose is primarily for balancing the wheels but can also seal minor punctures. This is a great solution for dual sport as I can run a tire that has reasonable road manners, then air down aggressively on slick trails. Slippery in my area is dust and marbles over smooth hard decomposed granite. Very typical in the Southwest US.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear! If the air leak annoys you, it might be worth popping the wheel off, just push the knobby in a bit to get it off the bead and dribble some Slime around the rim. I didn't get a good seal with a used knobby once (not surprisingly) and it came good after that without needing to actually take it off the rim.

[@gilogreenaway2989]

my experience Artful is as far as balance goes, liquid sealer in tyres can only unbalance them, i have seen manufacturers claim the opposite but then withdraw the claim. i have tried to balance wheels with sealer using weights, but sealer just makes it impossible.

[@artfulalias3984]

@@gilogreenaway2989 The stuff I used worked great for balance. I also tracked down the extremely slow leak. It wasn't at the bead.

[@TheDylantaylor08]

Used them for 5 years, zero issues. Slime is an excellent recommendation, I used it myself both to help with install and to seal up the Tubliss system as well. I converted over to a Nitro Mousse on both tires. They work as advertised, resulting in a softer feel than a traditional mousse. I end up with essentially the same pressure I would typically run a Tubliss at but with zero risk of flats. I’ve been able to have a mousse last through a couple of tires, just re grease and install the new tire. One less thing to worry about going wrong!

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Good to hear, Dylan! One of our guys is thinking of swapping from TUbliss to Nitromousse for racing.

[@TheDylantaylor08]

Would definitely check out the Nitro Mousse, really does what they say.

[@glutenfreegam3r177]

I've got nearly 17k miles on my Tubliss... Still going strong!

[@Gravelcruiser]

Still using heavy duty tubes. Primary reason is economy as I'm maintaining 3 bikes. One for myself and 2 for my son's. We make do with the higher pressures and use gummy tires. Works well enough for us.

[@tpv59]

EXCELLENT. 10/10. EXCELLENT. Straight to the POINT, DIRECT, Short, EXCELLENT. Thank You.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Cheers!

[@BlackdogADV]

I have a Husqvarna 701. I’m not an aggressive rider (I’m 72) but when I get a puncture I’d rather plug a tubeless tire then patch a tube )5 minutes VS 50 minutes). It’s become popular for guys to seal the spokes and run tubeless tires. Good idea? I’m on the highway a good amount to get to the trails.

[@redtobertshateshandles]

No, tubeless bike rims have an extra lip to secure the tyre. Tyre that can come completely off (quickly) at 100mph, no thanks.

[@jonsainsbury8726]

300 hrs on Tubes no issues -4mm Ultra Heavy Duty Tubes -9-12 psi checked day of ride -8oz Slime -Tuned KYB suspension -Occasionally clean slime fibers from valve -Ride Endro B class Wyoming to Texas -

[@maxmileagemoto]

Running tubliss for about four years now and have had a few issues. High pressure tube got "pinched' where it goes by the low pressure valve because the little rubber piece that is supposed to protect it cracks and allows the tube to rub against the metal valve stem. This happened twice about a year and a half apart. I now check this anytime i change tires and have added a few wraps of gorilla tape around it to keep it form tearing. So far so good. Other issue was constantly getting punctures in the front where the metal plate that sits above the low pressure valve on the outer side of the hard red rimlock tube/shell would puncture my tire over rocks and roots when running lower pressures (8 ish or less psi ). I thought it was just bad luck with sharp rocks, nails, etc. puncturing the tire until i realized i had a nice grouping of tire plugs in a vague square shape at the same spot where the metal plate on the red tube sits. Now I run my front at 11-12 psi and have no issues since. So, like the vid says, if you run fast and hard (and I would add that if you run on sharp, rocky, rooty terrain often even if you ride slower) keep that psi up around 10 or above in the front to avoid this issue. Also, changed from tire slime to armor all for the inner lubricant and it has worked well. I found that the slime really doesn't do much to seal anything anyway. Also, a lot less messy during tire changes. I am thinking of trying the Meggs Brapp method of Nitro mousse up front and Mousse/tubliss combo rear. Sounds like a nice setup after watching her vid about it.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I reckon the TUbliss guys would love to hear abou that 'pinch', Max. One of our guys is keen to try the Nitromousse, he will belt the shit out of them for a few months and we'll report on whether they work well or not.

[@regdavenport3715]

4 year on same set of tubeless. Love it. Never going back. Tires are way easier to change and rarely ever get flats anymore. Yes they can leak a bit but who cares. Im always changing pressure anyways based on terrain.

[@rz350yam]

Tubliss on the rear of all four of my bikes. Been using them since they came out. Never had them on the fronts. Use heavy duty tubes on fronts. Have had a few inner liner tubes get punctured (nails, tree limbs, barbed wire). Still carry a spare front tube on bikes for just that reason. Like the adjustability of the Tubliss system and have no problems with installation. I’ve gone through so many tires over the years, I have plenty of practice. I run Slime in all the rears. This helps seal the Tubliss system, and makes it easy to find a tire puncture and to plug it on the trail. Will never go back to tubes in the rears, and don’t have any desire to fight with a mousse during installation or tire removal.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Damn,those inner tubes must go with a loud pop! As mentioned in the vid, only one of our crew had that happen in seven years and he said it sounded like a gunshot lol.

[@rz350yam]

@@crosstrainingenduro Never heard them. They all died due to a puncture. You end up having to pull the red ring out to use the tube. We zip tie the ring to the front of the bike to salvage it and get back to the trucks. Looks stupid, but those things are too expensive to just toss. Oh, and I have ridden on a flat tire with the inner tube holding. Thought something was wrong as I kept feeling the rear end smacking rocks. At the time, I was dealing with some rear shock issues, so thought it was that and kept going. Finally stopped after about five miles of rocky hill climbing and took a look. Oops, rear tire was flat, shock not the issue. Plugged it, CO2’d it, and finished the ride, another 10 miles in the Rockies.

[@ajr.1272]

I really enjoyed my time spent with tubliss gen1, some 12 or so years ago we had them officially in brazil, nowadays the shipping costs and import taxes are prohibitive to order from overseas. We use the Lucioli ultra heavy duty tubes here. But I really liked the ease of installation I had with tubliss, and the fact that for me it just planly worked. I still have a new but dried out old stock front one that I can´t get to seal. When the opportunity arises, I´ll buy me a new set, this last generation seems to have all the problems covered.

[@dosovnis7090]

I want to try Lucioli have you had a good experience? This channel should do a review not sure if he is familiar with it. I did not like mousse (bike felt heavy and unresponsive, no pressure adjustment, too expensive to keep replacing all the time) and I’m trying to decide between Lucioli and Tubliss. Thanks.

[@ajr.1272]

@@dosovnis7090 Lucioli is our only accessible option here, like tubliss, mousse has a prohibitive cost. I never had any experience with mousse, but people say the weight is comparable between Lucioli and mousse. Durability wise, I've never seen someone replace a Lucioli, if you don't do anything stupid, they last countless tires. I don't know how much they cost for you guys overseas, but I would give it a go. They are pressure adjustable, give all the feedback regular tubes do and are pretty much bulletproof.

[@dosovnis7090]

@@ajr.1272Great thanks I think next week I will install Lucioli for both front and back.

[@TheTroybmorrison]

Thanks! I have been running for 7+ years at 8psi (>1000hrs). I started using both front and rear tubliss but found minimal gain on the front. Now I just use a standard set up on front and tubliss on rear. Runs flawless with slime. Thanks to this video and comments I will move this down to 4-5psi. Did not realize you could run this low without issues!

[@crosstrainingenduro]

You might ding a rim on roots or rocks with fast aggressive riding, Troy. But our rides are slow and technical so it's been great for traction.

[@leroywilliams7210]

Depends on your weight, terrain and speed. I’m 220 w/o gear and a fairly fast rider and settled on 6.5psi, less and I sometimes hit rocks on the rim or it gets squirmy in a corner and more the benefit starts to drop off. I too gave up on the Front years ago and moved to a Nitro Mousse, I find this the best combination for anything I come across.

[@orlandoberry8454]

I use heavy duty tubes - run 11 psi mud/ sand or 13 psi in rocks. No punctures in years. Not that I was fast - but I am getting older and slower.

[@peter_king]

Mousse for me, F & R. I really like that the what-air-pressure-should-I-run decision is taken away. And I know they aren't supposed to last but I get out on the bike probably 30 days a year and they will last a while at this rate with zero maintenance. It's reassuring to know they're in there when pounding through the slate and rocky trails that Wales in the UK has to offer. Love the vids

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great that's working for you, Peter 😁

[@davehowe_just_an_old_dirtbiker]

I've been running Tublis for a couple of years now and love it. While 3 psi may be good for traction, I don't like it at the higher speeds that I tend to hit from time to time. 7-8 psi seems to be a happy compromise and I don't have to change pressure out on the trail...or worry about pinch flats. I get lots of flats from large thorns so I always use Slime...even when I was running tubes. And Armor all for lube. Works great. I was concerned about losing the high pressure pressure so I check it at every ride. The problem is that just checking it will loose pressure so now I just top it off with my high pressure bicycle pump before each ride. Probably overkill but it only takes a few seconds to do. I usually get it to 120 psi so that it's at 100 psi by the time I remove the fitting since it does leak a bit just removing it. I haven't had any issues with loss on the low pressure side. True story. I was installing a fatty front tire and had a hell of a time spooning on the tire. Usually front tires are easier than rear tires but this was like installing a mouse. So after bloody knuckles and all, I finally get it on. It was miraculous that I didn't tear the tire where it has to seal against the rim. So I go to pressurize the inner tube and, what do you know, the valve stem was still in it with a bit of pressure in the tube, DUH!!!! At least now I know I could install a mouse if I wanted to! 🤣

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear it's working out for you, Dave. We had one of those 'Will I tear the tyre?!' moments on the new bikes lol.

[@leroywilliams7210]

Tubliss Rear Mousse Bib front is what I’ve settled on. Front low pressures make squirmy riding so not a huge benefit. Less rim protection and I’ve had multiple flats, yes I sealed them with 2-3 tire plugs but was a hassle and found little other benefits. Front mousse is great rim protection, where I usually get flats and feels like a 11-13lbs tire so handles normally. Rear Tubliss traction is phenomenal and I can run my tires longer before I feel I need to replace them. I’ve settled on 6.5 psi any lower and for my weight and speed it gets squirmy and unnecessary rim strikes. Tubliss is lighter than a HD Tube and considerably lighter than a Mousse.

[@simplyaaron]

Ditto on the issues with the front, especially if you run in faster terrain with rocks and roots. I still run tubliss in the front just because I am lazy though. Mousses are pricey and can be a pain to work with, while the idea of patching/replacing a tube trailside seems equally annoying. I just run 13psi in the tubliss and have maybe flatted once.

[@leroywilliams7210]

@@simplyaaron I find the Mousse easier to install that the Tubliss in the front. Tubliss was always a pain in front as there wasn’t as much tire to flex.🤷🏻

[@bradsanders6954]

When I ran rear tubliss on my 300, combined with a Dunlop 803 radial trials tire................if it wouldnt climb it nothing would. Amazing unstoppable traction...........a soft tire so 7 psi was plenty low. Much easier on trails being its not a big knobby digging its way thru. Guys would ride behind me and say Im not even leaving a mark, no wheelspin.

[@cnw-jd9tt]

I plan to do this when I get a new rear tire, my current tire is pretty fresh

[@daddister7471]

When I bought my YZ125X the previous owner had Tubliss installed. It seemed to work fine for awhile until the front developed a problem. My shop replaced it with a brand new front bladder and new tire. The bladder seemed to hold up OK but the tire had a slow leak from the get-go so I don't think they installed it correctly. I'd never tried a mousse before and decided to try one in the front. I've never had a rear flat with a tube, even running 5-6 psi, so I think the magic formula for me is mousse in front and heavy duty tube in rear.

[@painsrides]

Two seasons ago I got put down on a fast trail do to a sudden loss of air on the front tire while running Tubliss(that hurt). Last Saturday on the return from the trails, the same thing happened on the asphalt... I had a nice 30' slide, that cost me a new jacket, pants and jersey, lucky I was in full off-road armor and got no injury or road rash. Anyway, my trust off Tubliss is shattered.. I'm never running it again up front, I'll stick with a tried and true ultra-heavy duty tube at 12psi and a rim lock. That said, I'm totally spoiled by running a hybrid tire at 6psi in the rear with Tubliss, I've also never had an issue with the system on the rear so I'm keeping it on that end.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Bummer! Did the front knobby have a very soft firewall? In my experience, the typical knobby still works okay with 0psi... it's sloppy and will roll around with fast cornering but it feels like a tube setup at 3psi. E.g. rideable.

[@painsrides]

@@crosstrainingenduro I run a Shinko MX216 Cheater Fatty up front at 12psi. Both times I lost pressure suddenly and this caused the front end to wash out. I doubt its the tire's fault, both times the tire lost pressure at speed, not going straight and this caused me to lose control. Btw: there no puncture or tear in the tire.

[@jimmienewton6465]

Many moons ago. I rode a whole season of technical riding and and enduro with a Pirelli MT-43 Trials tire at 4-5 lbs. most of the time. That setup got FANTASTIC grip in snotty situations we have here in the NW U.S.. It did kinda suck when trying to corner in the dry gravelly terrain. I rode it during practice sessions at my local mx track, with 8-10 lbs. in it. Kinda sucked there, but that was all about tire choice. For slow, wet slogging, itt was great. Everything else, like in life, and it was compromise.

[@Rossi46Moore]

I love the Tubliss system. I also use the slime method. My first system lasted 7 years before the wire in the red liner rusted. I will say tho if you ride alot and use very soft tires (ie. You go through alot of tires) then I would go with a mousse that way you can keep the moose well lubricated.

[@Danger_mouse]

Another good presentation of the facts Barry. I've been using TuBliss since 2017 and really love the system. Easy tyre changes, adjustable air pressure from zero to 15psi and it's reliable. I've never had a high pressure tube issue and only a few tyre punctures. I recently tried a mousse that was supposed to be sized for my chosen tyre to be around '8 to 10'psi. I was unable to ride the same terrain I normally can using TuBliss as the mousse was not soft enough and then obviously non-adjustable. We run half a small bottle of Slime in each tyre both as leak prevention and as a lubricant for the inside of the tyre 👍

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Hey mate, great to hear! I'm back from down south so will check in soon. Hope all is well...

[@muppets_inc]

I've been running TUbliss for four years, covering two bikes and around twenty tyre changes. I've not had a single failure on the trail yet, I normally run around 2-6psi rear and 5-8psi front. The only time I've had a failure was during fitment and was my own stupid fault for being careless with the tyre levers. For my style of riding, having the flexibility to adjust your pressure on the day and throughout the day trumps the higher reliability of a mousse. Drastic weather changes at a recent race proved to be a perfect example of this - I just dropped my pressure to suit the wet and muddy conditions.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Good to hear, Coxy. I figured you might have swung over to mousses once you started the hard enduro events, but it's good the TUbliss is holding up. I figure you went as low as possible for the second day of the Kozzie then!

[@muppets_inc]

@@crosstrainingenduro Haha! Yes, I think everyone could have used a bit more grip on Sunday. I ended up running around 3psi on the rear which seemed to get the job done.

[@UTPP]

I've used both the tubliss and moousse. I'm now sold permanently on using moousses, it is a no brainer for me if you want total reliability. Sure their life span is about 3 years but that's 3 years of hassle free, no tools required riding.

[@stillcantride7159]

How many hours are you doing in 3 years?

[@UTPP]

@@stillcantride7159 hi there, I'm yet to test mine to 3yrs cause I've only been running them for 6 months but...my mate gets around 3 years out of his and he rides hard every week. That said he changes his tyres frequently and uses lots of lube. Heat is what destroys moousses, so if you change your tyres frequently, like I do anyway, and apply fresh lube every time, then there's no reason you shouldn't get between 2 and three years out of a moousse.

[@stillcantride7159]

@@UTPP fair enough, I’ve heard varying lifespans for them, I’m just around 25 hours on my first set.

[@UTPP]

@@stillcantride7159 I've got over 50hrs on my current ones and their perfectly fine.

[@TheEdge549]

Bought a bike that came with tubeless system installed on it. Never planned on buying it myself but now that I've ridden with it for a while I'd have no reservations buying them for other bikes. I really dig the traction on rooted climbs. That extra inch of squish in the tire on hard bumps also makes a difference to me.

[@jamiekerr7469]

Totally recommend Tubliss system. Awesome traction

[@crosstrainingenduro]

We agree!

[@jamiekerr7469]

@@crosstrainingenduro next time your heading up the sunshine coast. Please contact me. We have a very dedicated group of guys riding , glasshouse, kenilworth, Amamoor.etc..all late model bikes, keen to chat and learn.

[@dirklawyer9939]

IMO Barry, spot on review, at least these have also been my findings with the use of the system. I have run them for 6 years on all of my enduro bikes 6 KTM, 1 Beta, 1Husky, 1 Sherco and have installed them for friends on their bikes literally dozens of times. Of course installing them properly is critical, I usually dose the inner bladder with a product here in US "Armor All" this seems to deal nicely with the sealing issues 100% with new tires and when mounting a used tire, which I do at times, relative success, that is it usually will leak some every 3-5 rides depending on how hard I am hitting objects but for me only a slight inconvenience. I have also done some intensive light adventure rides over multiple days with my KTM500/tubliss system on a mix of 70/30 dirt and pavement with speeds up to 70mph with ZERO issues so I am sold. Tried other systems and just not checking all of my boxes well so at this time Tubliss is here to stay on my 2022 KTM 500 and 2022Sherco SE 300.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear it's been working well for you, Dirk. Armor All makes the fitting a lot easier too!

[@thomasgreen8532]

I put tubliss on my bike 4 years ago because most of my riding is in an a area that is more rocks than dirt. Lots of sharp rock too. They have worked well some complain of having to air up the tires but you should be checking tire pressure before every ride any so to me it is pointless to complain about such a small thing. Maybe they should take up lawn bowling. Tubliss was a game changer for me.

[@alioop250]

I have run Tubliss for around 900 hrs and love em. Here are the only issues I have encountered relating to the system itself. Tears around the base of high pressure valve stem (make sure the HP valve stem is nice and straight). Slow loss of pressure of the HP tube (check the pressure before a ride). Related issues. If you slice a tire there aint no fixin with plugs. If you run low pressures don't go around corners fast as they roll like mad, especially gummy tires. When removing tires you need to be extra careful not to catch the inner liner with the tire irons. ( i bet most tubliss users have trashed at least one liner?)

[@JoshThomas-b8d]

I ride a lot of rocks. The mousse can slam and hop through that stuff like its gravel. By the time the mousse feels to soft the tire is usually about done also. I really like not having to worry, or really even think about, air pressure.

[@davidrockwell9776]

I run tubliss in the rear at 6 psi and a tube in the front at 18 psi. For the terrain here in Northern California this setup works best for me. I now install a tube with the tubliss installation plate with the tube pre installed in the tire.

[@TapioBlue]

That's what I'm going to do, switch to tube in the front. Most benefit from Tubliss is probably the rear for a "tourist" like me.

[@sliceofbutter6766]

Tubliss in the front not worth it?

[@enablerdave]

Been using Tubliss for more years than I can remember. I use slime instead of soap and water to seal things up. I really like it. I've only had 2 failures that wouldn't have happened if I ran tubes in all those years. The first is Michelin Starcross 5 soft front tires will not seal for me. They'll hold air for the first couple of rides, but then start leaking and no amount of reseating and sliming will make them seal. In an hour, they're flat again after being pumped up to 12psi. I really like the starcross 5. I'm thinking about going mousse in the front at least. On the rear, I was running an IRC VE33S. I ran 6 psi in it most of the time. It quit holding air and reseating would not help it. Upon changing the tire out, I discovered the inner carcass had separated from the cords. So, even though it wouldn't have leaked with a tube, it did with Tubliss. I still run the same brand tire, but now I've upped the pressure to 7psi. Maybe I just beat the tire up too much in the rock gardens. Other than those two tire failures, I've had no issues.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Bummer about the air leak, David. You think it's Michelin specific?

[@enablerdave]

@@crosstrainingenduro Yeah, I think the carcass at bead area on the starcross is too thin. I think the tubliss bladder can't get out of the drop center far enough to pinch the bead and keep it sealed. The starcross have pretty thin carcasses.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I think TUbliss pairs up well with knobbies that have a decent carcass, as you can keep riding (gently) after a puncture if needed. You'd just be riding on the rims with a very soft sidewall...

[@scotthinton4610]

I just got a 500 EXC with Tubliss. The first ride out on rocky mountain trails the high pressure tube sprung a leak at yhe valve stem... The traction is amazing but not sure it's the best option for the super rocky trails here in Colorado. I've never had a flat with reasonable pressure on ultra heavy duty tubes.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Valve stem would imply it wasn't exactly lined up and there was some sidways pressure on the stem? But yeah I'd personally go for mousses if I was riding a lot of rocks and at speed. At some point you'll get that very nasty pointy rock that could go through the tyre carcass, red liner and into the tube. :(

[@jensenmiller6410]

After I spontaneously ripped apart a tube on the highway I spent some bucks to put a 18" rear on my DR. Didn't want to ever have to deal with finding a shop in the dead of night again. It's a little finnicky since it's a 2.50 rim width but it's held air in the cold chamber the whole life of this tire ~3k miles. The high pressure tube needs air about once a week to maintain 110psi. I was going to convert the front to tubliss as well but I ended up buying some old stock and the red liner's coating was sharding apart like old plastic. Haven't had any issues with the fuzz. I doubt they would look close enough to notice beyond the tire sidewalls.

[@chillozz1]

i'm using for many years Ultra heavy duty tires... For the dutch ground base its a awesome innertube.. its a bit harder to mount but take the time for it..

[@hesutton]

Never tried TUbliss. Had such great success with extra heavy duty Michelin tubes for 10+ years, its hard to complain. But, I have been considering other options - TUbliss or soft NitroMousse. The extra traction of 6psi from either setup is very tempting.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

The traction is ridiculously good... but it does have to be weighed against other factors.

[@Sladep123]

Thanks for doing this review. Very helpful to see others' comments and experiences to compare against my own. I had 2 front Tubliss high-pressure tubes in a row fail around the valve stem. This was compared to having zero issues using conventional heavy-duty tubes, so I asked myself why am I going through this extra expense and hassle to create problems I didn't have before? The dealer who sold and installed them said Tubliss had had some QA issues recently causing those failures. I do run Tubliss in the rear with zero problems. So I've the worst of both worlds - I carry a puncture kit for the rear and a replacement tube and tire irons for the front. My IQ is low enough and as as soon as my memory of the bad experiences on the front fades enough I will probably subject myself to another round of Tubliss front torture. The Slime idea and keeping the lock nut around the HP tube loose, like we do with regular tubes, are good ideas.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Bummer to hear, did you talk with TUbliss head office about that? I've heard they'll often send you out freebies if it sounds like a genuine product failure, and they'll quizz you about it to ensure it's fixed....

[@gglleenn77]

I also had a HP valve stem fail after sitting for a few months. Figured it was just time since it was 3yrs old. Still very happy with the system. Also Got to be careful not to get the spoon under the tube when removing!

[@Sladep123]

I did not talk to Tubliss' Head Office regarding those failures- good idea and should have, but I was so tired of having unnecessary problems I gave up, on the front anyway. Will try again when I have more control over my patience!

[@SteelJM1]

I too had more issues with a front tubliss on the bushpig and TE300 than the rear. So I went back to a tube for the front and kept the tubliss in the rear. My logic is as follows: If there's going to be a puncture, 80% of the time it's going to be on the rear. The rear is a bigger PITA to remove to get to the tube, so I'd rather use a plug. I carry a 21" spare tube around anyway for the front if needed, and it'll work in a pinch in the rear in case the tire gets un-pluggable or the tubliss system fails for some reason. Also the bushpig is my ADV bike and not really made to be bashing into rocks at 3psi anyway, so for offroad stuff I keep the front at 15psi minimum and have the option to go real low in the rear if I find myself in a sticky situation, but otherwise keep the rear at ~15-20 psi. 27-32 for highway riding loaded up with gear.

[@kenbob9953]

Love the system! Used for 5 yrs. Checking pressures before a ride is important. Especially the high pressure! Thank you for the support & system validation ! KUDOS on all of your vids ! kenbob CDSR

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Cheers, Kenbob!

[@Randy_Cox]

Put tubliss in my rear tire before the race season and a moose in the front. I have had 0 issues in 5 races so far at 8-9psi as we race more high speed offroad and I am a heavy rider. The traction gain over 15psi on tubes is increadable and I won't go back.

[@empirical8855]

Thanks Barry. I think Tubliss is significantly less reliable with FIM enduro tyres. In the UK we're often limited to road legal tyres even just trail riding (Green Laning on legal byways etc.) Michelin Enduro Mediums are considered the best road legal for most UK trail riding. I think the FIM tyres don't work well with Tubliss because the carcass is soft to compensate for the 13mm FIM knob height limit. Many of my riding buddies and I tried Tubliss but had problems with leaks in rockier terrain which would spoil a group ride due to having to slow down or go home.

[@gasnxt6805]

Also tyre changes are easier with TUBLISS. I get awesome traction with 6psi even when the tyre is worn out. Been using them for 3years with no issues.

[@James-nc2ed]

I've got Two sets of wheels. One set with Tubliss for dual sport and basic trail riding. One set with mousses for races and the gnarly stuff.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Good combo!

[@Jrod_FPV]

Look up Tacs pro mousse. Technically it's a half mousse that is only compressed on hard hits or when tire is below 4psi. Not yet shipping across the ocean from Romania, but seems like a great supplement to Tubliss. Id like to try one for peace of mind at super low tire pressure.

[@chain.driven]

I’ve had mine on front and back for 18 months now. I do everything from daily commuting to moto camping, single track and hare scrambles with them. They’ve never let me down and I love the traction. So far one puncture and it was pretty sweet being able to plug the tire. I do find mine ALWAYS LEAK. The high pressure will loose about 10psi over a couple weeks. The low pressure chamber I’ll loose about 1-2 psi per day. It changes. These days I loose less. I don’t run slime unless it’s really bad. I got pretty used to just checking them before each ride.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

10psi over two weeks is pretty good actually... mine tend to drop that much in one week. Although of course you probably lose 5psi simply through checking the air pressure.

[@davehowe_just_an_old_dirtbiker]

Another nice benefit of Tublis is that you can have a ding in your rim and it will still seal since the sealing takes place between the inner liner and the inside of the tire. New rim vs Tubilss??

[@gab223334]

3 or 4mm cheap tubes with a bunch of grease. Im doing cross contry and motocross with only one set of wheel and limited budget, basically, i always feel im on the wrong tires. The Meg Braap set up is pretty legit too!

[@adamusher]

I built 2 wheels sets for the DR650 , both 21/18. One set has 2.5 rear, the other 2.125. So I fitted Tubliss to the narrow one. Playing on local single track, just the diameter difference of a 18 with a tall narrow tyre makes for much easier rut work, dropping to 0 ~ 6psi with the Motoz Extreme Hybrid tyre had me blown away with the traction on all surfaces. However, seeing as I had the second wheel, I fitted a 140 Motoz RallZ with UHD tube. Yep....waaaaay heavier. But, I drop it to 6 ~10psi and I honestly think it does better in a lot of situations. The Extreme Hybrid relies more on it's compound for traction, the Rallz is really wide, big knobs, and a big gap between them, so on steep climbs when I hit tree roots forming step ups in the ruts, the RallZ hooks and climbs more easily, same with surfaces that are slippery but have chunks of rock mixed in, anything solid it claws over. Crossing fallen trees in general I prefer the RallZ so far. Slick rock, the Extreme Hybrid. So going forward, I think further experimentation with tyre brands and types will produce some interesting results. Over all, just the 18 inch wheel has been a significant improvement. Disclaimer: My DR has RMZ forks, triple clamps, front wheel, swingarm, shock, and linkage. With the suspension unloaded and setup in my normal REDUCED height setup, I have 400mm under the bashplate, so I can ride ruts the smaller bikes get stuck in, my bashplate may be wider, but it's further off the ground, and utilises the width that other riders footpegs have carved out. So ruts that the 250/300/450 have abandoned are a lot of the time still a viable line for me. It just floats the back end over the tree roots. Really goes a long way for making up for the fact I'm old and broken. I've called it my disability single track bike, and in some ways it is. As long as I don't have to pick it up. I seriously considered (and have all the parts laying around in the shed) building a 19 inch rear with cush drive. The extra diameter has made the biggest difference to date, so I figure, why not go bigger again?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear, Adam. Only three rides but must admit I'm loving the Rallz so far. I'll be doing a new vid about DR650 suspension options soon and I'm going to mention the RMZ forks... did you find it an easy swap? I'll be doing the old 1983 to 1988 RM250 conventional forks option soon. These just slide right in and work with the stock wheel and axle. All it needs is a custom caliper adapter plate. The bike is sitting a bit high at the rear with the big 140 Rallz so the longer forks will balance it out nicely. And get some extra clearance.

[@adamusher]

@@crosstrainingenduro Yeah for the forks I have done 3 versions on DRs. One was the USD double chamber from an 07 RMZ250, triples, forks, and wheel, super moto 320mm disc and caliper adapter. I did another with 1999 RMZ 250 conventional dual chamber forks, triples, forks, DRZ wheel and super moto 320mm disc with caliper adapter. The last one was an 06 RMZ single chamber USD, RMZ forks, wheel Disc. The RMZ swingarm and rear shock and linkage was another progression done back in 2009. I bought all the components from a US wrecker who was breaking old stock brand new bikes. So things like shocks, $150, swingarm, $60, linkage $60. I measured an RMZ frame, did my calculations, and then cut the DR shock mount off, and cut the linkage mounts off and welded new mounts fabricated from 6mm plate. My argument at rego was I didn't modify the frame. I modified the shock mounts. The only down side was I ditched the airbox because the shock sits central and clearance was an issue. I just run a pod filter off a pumper carb. The only real issue with front ends is speedo drive. If you use the DRZ wheel, you can use the RMZ250 axle and forks from before 06. So you can use the DRZ speedo drive and hook the standard DR speedo up. If you go with a full RMZ front end from 07 onward, the 250 and 450 went back to the same USD fork, axle is larger, the front wheels changed PCD so you just need to get the right disc to match. Steering lock, I made an adapter plate, mounted the ignition barrel to the plate, it bolts on to the bar riser bolts under the top triple clamp. In terms of anti theft...it's about as successful as standard. Yeah, you could spend 30 minutes trying to dismantle it, or just break the lock pin like the thieves normally do. So that didn't worry me. I'll have to do a walk around vid and sent you a link. But it transforms the bike. I'd tried gold valves and aftermarket shock upgrades and all that, and the RMZ suspension valved and sprung for the DR is like a factor of 3 to 1 better than the "usual upgrades". I grew up racing MX, and at nearly 60 I ride a bike in the dirt like an MX bike. So I just figured that MX suspension was probably a smarter place to start.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great info, thanks for that Adam. I'll include some of that in the upcoming vid. Out of interest, how did you go with fork spring rates? I assume these would have been a bit soft for the weight of the DR650. I'm checking spring rates for the old RM250 forks I'll be using and it looks as though I can only go as high as 5.0 which I hope will be enough. The stock ones are 4.3....

[@adamusher]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZbclH2al5mgadk did a quick walk around for the basics. Yeah, sprung for weight. Front is probably slightly stiff, I like them that way. 0.62kg/mm. Rear spring came off an XR650R, It’s progressive wound. Works really well with the “step” people say they feel in the RMZ linkage. So super smooth over trail chop, takes big hits. Having that high and low speed compression adjustment is brilliant. Rear travel on this is crazy. My ATV lift is topped out, tyres are still on ground. With the spring off the shock I measured 340mm travel on the rear. Basically, before I did some shim work on the shock I was doing big jumps, bottoming it out, and hitting ground with the bashplate. Seat height is crazy. For single track I drop preload off shock, so it sits at about 40% rider sag. The rear climbs over axle height roots and trees so easy I often stop and look back to see if they just broke. Mate of mine was doing Cape Tours out of Cairns on the other DR I built, and he loved it. This one’s much better than that one. An evolution ahead. You can do the 06 Triples and forks and use the standard steering stops. I just preferred the 07 triples because they gave me greater range of adjustment on fork leg. You’ll see in the video I have the forks pushed up in the triples about 30mm. That’s not as far as they’ll go, but it’s close. That’s my single track setting. For riding soft sand out west I drop them the full amount and give it lazier steering. I didn’t have that range on the 07. I need to do something about a speedo. I was running one of the old Vapours, but apparently upside down in a creek is bad for them. So I use a speedo app on my iPhone on the Quadlock on road, and Hema trail maps off-road. My son bought me a GPS/EPRIB thing for some weird reason. He stopped coming with me when he busted his leg up. Easier to just buy me an EPIRB.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Love the sound of all that rear travel! I'm very tall so I'd have no problem with lifting the DR650 quite a bit, but I'm on a strict budget and not great with mechanical skills so I'll just stick with some RM250 forks and get the rear shock revalved I think. Thanks again for the video and info link, it will be good to present viewers with a range of options.

[@spotthedogg]

Stans latex tire sealant from the bicycle shop is better than Slime, I put 200-250ml rear and between 150-180ml in the front tire. An added benefit is that this will seal most punctures before you’re aware of them, another adde benefit is dynamic balancing for those fast road sections. 😀

[@ridingwithmrP]

Totally agree with you, been using them for years...my tip use Stan's instead of slime never leaks

[@davehowe_just_an_old_dirtbiker]

Had my first ride of the season yesterday. I hadn't check the high pressure tube since last November and I figured it would be flat. It actually had 85 psi in both the front and rear and the low pressure was only 1 psi down from where I last had it. It nice to know that if I forget to check it, I'm going to be OK.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Excellent, Dave! Once I forgot to check mine for about three months and it had dropped to 50psi but it was still keeping the tyre in place... but obviously it was running a risk.

[@Papparratzi]

@@crosstrainingenduroI install with 100% slime, nothing else. I set my compressor to 100 min and 120 max. I fill until I don’t hear anymore air going in. Last week I was doing a leakdown test and set it to 80# and forgot to reset it to 100#. Normally the bladder loser about 1# a day and tires lose 1# in 2 to 3 weeks. Unfortunately when I filled up before my ride I actually lowered the bladder pressure. I’m not sure exactly when the bladder failed to seal, but I rode 30 street miles for a meet up and a few miles into the ride hit a kicker that lifted the rear about a foot off the ground. I think that’s all it took to break the seal in a big way. With a Trackmaster rear, I kept riding another 20 miles through a jagged rock bed but had to bail because it wasn’t holding air but had no punctures. That means the seals broken and I didn’t want to put a tube on and hold up 7 riders. Ironically when I got to my bailout home, I picked up a rivet shallow in the rear on the way and the bladder actually had failed separately. Moral of the story, always check the bladder. As for you, count your lucky stars you didn’t have my experience. Part 2🙃 I had a new liner and bladder at home. After inspecting the tire, to my surprise, it didn’t show any signs of abuse. I cleaned it and used my Slime only install and after plugging the rivet puncture, it’s happily hold like new. I used the “Blackburn Plugger Bike Tubeless Tire Repair Kit” that is smaller than a standard tire plug and perfect for most Tubliss repairs.

[@braaap6292]

I run tubliss filled with a few ounces of Ultraseal tire sealant for AA/Pro off road racing. I used to use the green tire slime but found that it would dry out after a few months and eventually I'd get a flat. This latest setup is the best in my opinion. I hate the way bibs feel, they're non-adjustable, they get beat out and need regular replacement, and they don't fit properly in all tires. Not to mention very expensive. The tubliss does have an installation learning curve, but once you figure out the nuances it's an amazing setup.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I agree with fitment... the first time took ages as I made sure I followed the instructions carefully. After that, changes have been quick.

[@garretthorner]

I like mousse because you never have to think about it, and it will always get you home. Also most mouses that I’ve used have gone over 100 hours on the rear, and the front is usually good for about 40 hours before I don’t like how soft it is (it’ll cause the front end to plow through corners), but I’m lazy so I’ll often run front one longer than I’d recommend. It’s the only thing I run nowadays Tubliss, however, has a much better feel out of tube and mousses and when it works it is a joy to ride. However, I never want to worry about fixing a puncture while on a ride, and the biggest problem with tubliss is that if you dent a rim (which as a very aggressive rider I do almost all the time), tubliss won’t hold air. I think that there’s no reason to run tubes on anything but a motocross track. If you’re off-road, a tube is just so easily flatted or punctured and it’ll cost you more than you’d save if you just bought tubliss or a mousse once ever 100-200 hours depending on how stiff you like your tire. That’s all just my opinion as a pretty average rider, however.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Those are good hours for mousses, Garrett. I know a lot of riders don't get that far... are you using Michelins?

[@garretthorner]

@@crosstrainingenduro Michelin and Nitros

[@garretthorner]

@@crosstrainingenduro If you do a lot of fast riding mousses do deteriorate much faster from the heat

[@shoefly757]

I like tubliss for Enduro type riding, but not really for racing. I have a stack of nearly new tires with small sidewall punctures. I usually swap to a tube for a while until the stack is gone.

[@antoniodestefano4752]

Tubliss da almeno 6 anni , nessun problema , grande versatilità. All’anteriore , ho notato che con pressioni particolarmente basse, il fermacopertone fora la gomma. È sufficiente stare almeno ad un bar con la 90-90 oppure 0,8 bar con la 90-100. Adesso li ho rimossi dalla seconda moto per montarli sulla terza ( nuova).

[@crosstrainingenduro]

6 anni? Bravo!

[@cedricboivin9422]

Glad to hear that the red shield wear over time before I blow through. It's the first time I see that (I have been using mine for only 2 years)

[@crosstrainingenduro]

That was from running 0psi over a few rides as an experiment, Cedric. But I should have had Tyre Slime in there to prevent the friction!

[@brentbaker954]

I love tubeliss, perfect if you do woods riding and track. I find them easier to change tires once the tubliss is fitted

[@endurohusa2271]

I’ve done 200 hours of mixed riding on a moose no issues but I’m keen on trying tubliss for a comparison

[@artisbriska6694]

Super! Start to use tubliss.

[@camwsa]

Tubliss for 1 year now and loving it

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear. Easy to fit?

[@camwsa]

@crosstrainingenduro Thanks and yes, easy to fit. It's better to use new tires as you said, no leaks and running 4 psi. To install and I'm using the no pinch tool. Greetings from Costa Rica 🇨🇷.

[@Venom2U]

I've used Tublis for quite some time now. Not sure how long but serval years at least. I had 2 of the first ones I installed that leaked slowly. But it wasn't the tire that leaked down, it was the high psi tube that would bleed off pressure over time. If my memory serves (which very well may NOT), it took a week or two before I had to add air to the high-pressure tube. For me this wasn't a problem as adding air is part of my pre-ride checks. And I never thought it was a "problem" per say. It's just something to keep an eye on. Now in more recent years, the newer versions don't leak down as quickly as the old systems did for me. Now a days; I have to check/fill it after winter during my spring checks. And maybe once or twice during the season. But otherwise, I don't worry about it, unless I tear a tire or have to change a tire.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

We usually just put air in before the ride each weekend. It usually shows as 10psi lower after a week, although a fair chunk of that is simply from losing air while checking.

[@Venom2U]

@@crosstrainingenduro I don't fool with mine anymore. I don't even check the psi anymore, unless I have reason to think I damaged it. 2 or 3 years ago when I got one of the current versions I pulled the tire monitor off of my truck's valve stem and monitored the high psi tube over a week. I think TUbliss changed the composition or thickness of the tube because they only leak down 1-2 psi a week now. (old ones used to be 20-30 psi/week) And even that is with in margin of error given the fluctuations in temp and barometric pressure. So now adays I check them (the High psi tube) every month or every other month (depending on how much I get to ride). I do want to comment on your chart at 3:43. I agree with everything listed on the section on Mousse, but I would have added one thing to both the good and bad section. Mousse's drastically change the feel of both the front end and the rear. For some this may be a good thing, and for others it may be a bad thing. Personally, I can't STAND mousse's. For me; on the rear they're "OK,,,,,,,,,,ish". But on the front? OH HELL NO!! The mousse just doesn't have the delta V of an air spring. And I can't get used/adapt to the dead front end feeling. Drives me nuts. And yet, other folks love them. To each his own.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I know, some hate the 'dead' feel of a front mousse, others like me have no issue with it so I didn't include it in the chart... but it was mentioned in the original video.

[@270raptor]

Absolutely love it ! I use nitrogen for the inner tube so temp doesn’t effect it

[@morrjeff]

Just my opinion but I think nitrogen is a waste of money. Air is roughly 78% nitrogen and I don't think your inner tube bladder would get hot or cold enough such that expansion/contraction of the 21% oxygen would make any significant difference to the pressure. Just my thoughts...

[@GingerMoto]

Please keep pushing for them to do the 17" wheel you have a great following and would benefit greatly we discussed this on FB but hopefully it will be seen here as well by the right ones.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

👍

[@dopesquatch]

I have tubliss in 2 bikes for about 5 years now and love the system... 07 husky wr250 and 2020 beta 390 rrs i have a plate on both bikes and ride them on the street between trails but would not worry about police.. worry about wearing my tires out on road lol! Wisconsin U.S.A. cheers

[@aly-tek7190]

Yes! Only just commited to buying the Tubliss system. Bloody expensive but "but" after seeing this review I'm happy I did ;)

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Hope it works out well for you... just follows the instructions well and it should all be drama-free.

[@nv350xcf]

Had tubliss for a couple years. Almost every time I changed tires I would end up with leaks in the low side either from the spokes or around the valve stem. Probably user error on my part but I switched to bibs and don't even know what a flat tire is anymore.

[@leroywilliams7210]

I find a little soapy water helps get the tire and Tubliss on and in place and seal it up. After that or 1st ride any small leak goes away. Make sure your tape is wide and sticks good by cleani g rim thoroughly before first install. Also, worn tires or cheap tires can have issues.

[@jamesdenton3692]

I've had a TUbliss setup in the rear for 5yrs . no problems with punctures but it's agreed once a tire is set it's almost impossible to get another proper seal. No amount of slime has stopped a super fine veil of bubbles from the bead . Slow leak but lesson learned.

[@joshpodolsky7740]

I run mousse in the front and tubeless in the rear. Like another guy said, the front always seemed to leak air and it was so hard to get the front tire on with tubeless it was starting to tear the bead of the tire. That might be cause it was an older tire but I gave up with that and went to mousse in the front.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

We had a really interesting experience when fitting them to our two new Sherco models, Josh. The first one was so tight we thought we'd rip the bead. The second went on easily. I can't help feeling we got something wrong on the first fitting... probably the tyre was sitting on the bead at some point?

[@joshpodolsky7740]

@@crosstrainingenduro my thinking is the tubliss takes up more room in the drop center of the rims so you can't drop the bead as far down into it. Whereas on the rear there is more room. That combined with the more skinny tire up from so it's not as flexible as a rear.

[@samtoshner8002]

Interesting that you slimed the outside of tire bead. The air tight seal is made on the inside of the tire bead, between the red tubliss carcass and the tire. I suspect the slime would find its way there anyway though.

[@lungocannone6]

I use tubeless with slime for the front and tubliss with an half mousse in the rear.

[@Oldfatbeerman]

I have been running the Tubliss system for around a year now , the only issue I have encountered is several punctures , all of which have occurred due to the rimlock piercing the tyre , I assume that this occurs when a rock or root impacts the tyre just at the time the rimlock is inline with the impact point . I intend to address the sharp edges when I next do a tyre change . 3 flats in 1 year and about 3000 km of mostly single trails is pretty good , especially when you don't actually have to do anything but keep riding ( albeit slower and more carefully ) back to the car or home base .

[@andrewvincent1579]

Currently using the tubes cause my new bike came with them. Might as well use them till they blow-

[@timmychen6]

After seeing Jarvis riding in person with 8psi stock tire, I knew that it’s not about tire nor psi. It’s about people.

[@LukeMorphett]

Not to be finicky, but 100PSI is roughly 6.9 bar, that's 690kpa.... I'm a plumber. Pressure is important to me. I love my tubeliss also, great vid.

[@chrispewkreme]

Every Tubliss rider I’ve met has had issues with leaks. I’ve got one up front and it leaks. Previous owner probably hit a rock and damaged it. If you’re gonna run it, I’d recommend using it only in the rear. Stick to a tube or a mousse for the front imo.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I'm the first one to hit a leak in the front in our group... and never on the dirt bike (that's five riders over about the five years). Oddly enough it was the DR650 and trying to fit a Motoz Adventure front which apparently are hard to get a good seal with. I had to really slather it with Slime and put some inside as well before it finally sealed. Did the riders in your case try to fit used knobbies? TUbliss do say to only use brand new tyres to get a good seal.

[@dirtbikesicehockey4788]

Thanks for the detailed review. I've had this on my radar for awhile now. I was waiting until I needed new tires but I can't wear out my Bridgestone fast enough

[@dmelson7502]

I've been running tubeless for 4 to 5 years now, four and a half to 5 PSI in the back 9 to 9 1/2 in the front. DOT? I don't run dot knobs either.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear!

[@arnaudnicolau2093]

tubeliss is amazing, used the gen 2 for now at least 5 years, never going back to tubes, i hate punctures

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Same here, I'd rather listen to bagpipes than change tubes lol

[@garethrosey]

I've been running tubliss for 5 years or so, and never had a system failure while out riding, with the only problems being caused by fitting technique. I did have a few punctures during a 24hr race last August though, 1 in the front that I found at 1 in the morning when I came in to swap riders, a 'dog turd' sealed it up nicely and it did the rest of the race and a few practise rides after. In the rear I managed to pick up 3 little cuts, I fixed 2 with dog turds but on the 3rd the tool broke while trying to extract the tool and left a sharp barb in the tyre, so I swapped rear wheel to a spare. With both of the punctures I didn't noticed until I came in to the pits, possible helped by the slower speeds during the dark hours. I did use the rear tracker compete with holes at 0psi for about 10 hours during the winter with awesome grip! 😂

[@crosstrainingenduro]

You have to love those dog turds!

[@garethrosey]

@@crosstrainingenduro have you seen one of Megbraaps latest videos about using an old mousse as well as tubliss? Sort of best of both worlds! I've got a mousse in my race wheels then when it's worn out I may cut it up and try it.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

No, but one of our guys has been doing that for two years now. Works a treat!

[@craighoffman6876]

Awsome video as usual! I live in Colorado and so I'm riding "western US" desert and rock conditions. Have run TuBliss, currently running bibs, probably will go back to TuBliss when the bibs wear out. TuBliss is much easier to install than bibs of course. The big negative with bibs, aside from their expense, is they are very heavy and you can feel their weight when you ride. Bibs also aren't "adjustable" and depending on what stiffness you install, they feel like riding around with 15 PSI when they are new. Plush? That is bib BS, not when they are new. The upside of bibs is you can spear pointy rocks at speed out in the desert with near impunity 😆 TuBliss makes any given pressure slightly softer than tubes in my opinion, so if you usually run 12 PSI in a tube, running 12 PSI in a TuBliss is like running 10 or 11 PSI. If riding high speed desert you don't want to run single digit air pressure as it really risks slicing the tire open. I had that happen to me and that's why I switched to bibs in the 1st place. Was able to ride the slashed tire back to the truck as it didn't affect the high pressure bladder, and pretty sure if I had been running 12 PSI in the tire it wouldn't have happened at all. Like the video says, I do like that the rider can adjust the tire pressure to the conditions. Slow technical riding? Lower the pressure. Fast open desert riding? Raise the pressure. The ability to adjust your air pressure is cool.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear they are working out well for you, Craig. As always it's cool to have these options available and just work out what suits best.

[@erikjensen7704]

Been using Tubliss for 10 years. One failure of a 5year old high pressure tube caused by rust into the steel belts. Balancing wheels does really help the feel even on rough terrain, anything over 15mph.

[@Yoda-em5mt]

Sounds good in theory but my question is running that low in psi surely you will flat spot your rims as the only thing protecting them is air pressure i have run mousses for years and love them years back they brought out a mouse with a small diameter tube inside it this was the ultimate mouse protection with adjustability and almost pinch proof, maybe the moto industry needs to pinch a few ideas from the mtb world there tubeless system is spot on .

[@crosstrainingenduro]

There's definitely a risk to the rims if you run low psi then ride fast and aggressively... you'd want mousses in that case. But for our style of riding it's been brilliant.

[@1991enduro]

Thanks bazza I keep popping normal ultra heavy duty tubes and was going to go tubliss instead of mooses

[@jaumeribotmelis1180]

You could also try Nomousse, the wall is thicker than the tubliss system and also taller, protecting the rim against hard hitting rocks or roots. Same air pressures allowed ann the inner tube inflated between 3 to 6 bar (45 to 90 psi). Only for the rear wheel though.

[@ktmkaos]

I used Tubliss for a couple of years .It was awesome in the rear .Makes tyre changes very easy and a pretty well puncture proof .Although I could never get the front to be 100% air tight and the initial cost is outrageous .I sold the bike with the Tublis and didn't bother with them on my Reiju .I found them too fiddly and expensive . I run 14psi in front and 12 in rear ,not ideal ,but it seems OK for this plonka