Tuff Torq K46 / T40J Transaxle Pump Rebuild + Modifications (Oil Fill Mod Series Video 1)

[@glenntremblay5406]

I rebuilt my tuff torq years ago and used the 5w50 syn oil and it's been great since then.

[@BritishBeachcomber]

My British Westwood machine has a header tank on top of the transmission so it's easy to see the level and top up. Great if you've got an axle bearing leak. You can keep on mowing until you have time to replace the bearings.

[@The_Second_greatest_ever]

Won’t void warranty nowadays. Right to repair.

[@csanivehrer4777]

Hi! I made the rebuild but when i use the mower the forward end the backward exchanged?! What can be the problem?

[@MostlyBuilds]

You put the wedge looking part in upside down. The part that I’m talking about is the one that is close to the brake disc. The shaft that the brake disc is connected to goes through the center of this part. You likely had to compress this wedge piece when putting the pump center case assembly back into the transmission case. Tuff Torq apparently designs it this way because some mower manufacturers need it to spin one way and others need it to spin the opposite way. You’re going to have to open the case again and flip the wedge 180 degrees. Let me know how it goes 😀

[@joannyeager9209]

Show diagram parts 24/54husqvarna 2:36

[@harrybaulz666]

Yeah well newer mowers are now coming with a tl 200 transaxle ... Cheaper to make and lower torque

[@MostlyBuilds]

I’d love to get my hands on a TL 200 to take it apart to see if anything is obviously different inside.

[@ZackBadCompany1234]

I just want to make it go fast. Even if it grenades after a few hrs.

[@MostlyBuilds]

Hah well if you wanted to go full cowboy you could try putting a bigger pulley on the transaxle’s input shaft.

[@ZackBadCompany1234]

@MostlyBuilds sooooo, I put a bigger pully on it. And it's about twice as fast. But it feels like the pump just dumps off all the excess pump pressure through the bypass.. I am wondering if I remove the bypass if I can get it faster yet lol.

[@MostlyBuilds]

@@ZackBadCompany1234 hah wow 2x faster sounds pretty awesome. I could be wrong but I don’t think you can “remove the bypass”. The bypass rod turns an internal shaft that presses on a little pin that slightly separates the motor cylinder from the center case on the pump assembly. I actually broke this pin recently by messing up putting things back together after taking the trans apart again. With the pin missing, the bypass rod does nothing and won’t separate the pump parts to let oil leak though. It’s the same as having the bypass rod turned off (pushed in). My guess is you are exceeding the pressures that the pump is designed for. I wouldn’t be surprised if it is also heating up and causing the oil to become more thin, making it easier to squirt out between the pump surfaces. If you don’t care about destroying the trans, you could potentially try a heavier weight oil that might not thin out as easy at higher temps. Possibly leaking less at higher pressure. A total guess! The standard disclaimer applies! I’m not an expert. Don’t hurt yourself. Don’t listen to me 😀

[@ZackBadCompany1234]

@MostlyBuilds haha my thought is to remove that little pin 😁 heavier oil is a good idea as well. And no worries I take full responsibility for my Tom foolery 😆 great video btw have a good one!!

[@ZackBadCompany1234]

@MostlyBuilds so here's an update. Removed bypass pin. ( your right, does nothing except stops the free wheeling with manipulation of the small lever on the back) I put some Lucas hydraulic oil stop leak and that increased pressure a little more and gave me a little more speed. I am in a situation now where the hydraulic pressure exceeds pump limits, and the pump body separates and bleeds off any excess pressure I was able to make. I do plan on swapping to a solid axel with a cvt style clutxh. So, I will do any mods regardless of the consequences 😆

[@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024]

Damn. I wish my x300 pos didn't blow it's k46 this year, now deere wants $1000 plus for a transmission (same garbage), I'm gonna tell them to get me a k58 instead. No rebuild kits at all, at least ones that don't come with new gears, which mine ground all to hell. I have only 320 hours on it, should be able to sell it for $3000, I'm screwed but to replace it's transmission.

[@MostlyBuilds]

Ouch. How did you manage to grind up the gears? Did all the oil leak out or something?

[@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024]

@@MostlyBuilds 4 years ago it had blown out a seal and was brought back to the dealer under warranty, I'm wondering if they didn't get it filled exactly right or they didn't put the correct oil in it. I was hearing Deere put 1030 in it when tuff torq specifies 5w50 Then again, how did it make it another 4 years, granted the last few summers have been dry and it didn't get the usual hours mowing put on it.

[@MostlyBuilds]

@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 wow. Have you contacted John Deere corporate? If you haven’t, I highly recommend doing so. The fact that you had a transmission failure when under warranty and then it mysteriously blows up? That sounds super suspicious. I wouldn’t be surprised if they give you a new transmission.

[@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024]

@@MostlyBuilds I don't believe John Deere corporate is on the side of the consumer/farmer. But maybe I ought to try it.

[@MostlyBuilds]

@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 it doesn’t cost ya anything other than a few minutes. I emailed them about my early transaxle failure (~130 hours I think?). They wanted me to take the machine to a dealer so they could get more info. I had already started messing with it myself so I missed out on them potentially helping me out. I was surprised that they seemed like they might do something though. They didn’t just tell me too bad.