Turbocharging My Honda 400ex 2.0 First Ride (New Design + Upgrades)

I install a turbocharger on my 1999 Honda 400ex quad with a new design and take it for the first test ride. #Honda, #Turbocharged, #Turbo2.0,
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The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. 2vintage( Joe Weber, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL 2vintage( Joe Weber) CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
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[@Razor6On3]

Joe, what i see for this project is sitting on the back burner for a bit, you researching and designing a more streamline turbo setup for this quad and when nobody expects it you pull it out and just dominate. Never give up, Dont lose sight!!

[@buttermule]

That exhaust mount just hanging there in the breeze on the exhaust pipe is driving me nuts dude.

[@michaelmitchell5909]

Who cares it not your quad

[@diesel7903]

@@michaelmitchell5909no need to be a dick

[@dhooter]

​@@michaelmitchell5909Just an observation

[@Thumper68]

Flange

[@warnerhatten598]

4 videos deep same mount hanging 🥴🤣

[@judecmcsgamingsurvivalchan9531]

Just got my first bike!!!, So happy, thanks for all the knowledge, been watching for a couple of years and feel like I have a pretty good understanding of the maintenance thanks to you and others, 2 stoked!

[@Meech917]

you have to have the fuel right for the right amount of boost and i dont think that carb can handle that fuel. CUT THE BOOST TO 4 PSI AND YOULL BE FINE

[@maddtech348]

Did u lower the plug gap and make sure there is no boost leaks. Is there and air fuel gauge on there? Will help tell u if it's to rich or to lean. Careful man playing with fire shall we say can blow up easy during this stage. Good luck man keep it up.

[@Farmingstock]

Put it on injection get it running right, then add the turbo, then change the map to suit the turbo, you will always be fighting it with a carb, it should be much simpler than this!

[@patricspointofview7188]

Loved following along on this project. You win some, you lose some, but definitely learned a great deal. I suspect you'll accidentally run into some info that will tie this puzzle together. Thanks for sharing.

[@MK2Scirocco]

Never give up!!! You're SO close!!!

[@deanmachinewfo8262]

The carb is designed to have air drawn threw it not pressurized. Put the carb before the turbo so it can suck the fuel in :)

[@darren7672]

That’s what I was thinking. They run blow through carbs in carbureted turbo cars.

[@8bert9]

I agree 100% too! Honda designed that carb to be a draw through normally asperated. So keep it as a draw through. All you would have to do is re-plumb your turbo setup

[@zesthraxGaming]

That is a simple and effective way to quick turbo your small engine, but these turbos don’t have carbon seals, so wouldn’t work.

[@bensilva5173]

He tried that first. Fuel Couldn't get to to the engine. The fuel would condense in the pipe before getting to the engine and it wouldn't start. Watch the video, two videos ago I think.

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Air moving across the Venturi is air being carbureted.

[@lbdrummer3]

Like others have said, don't give up. It just needs to go on the back burner for a bit so you can regroup. You have a brilliant mind and I'm sure you will figure it out in time.

[@canoticoyote]

about to go down this rabbit hole with a 400 stroker yfm350r. thank you for getting this journey started for all of us

[@m8fusion712]

Don't give up man, it takes time, good video

[@promotionfabrication]

The carb slide works on vacuum which isn't compatible with your setup, u would try a different carburetor with a manual slide. Don't give up you've come this far. Also it would be a big help for you to learn to read your spark plugs, they can tell you a lot about your air fuel mixture and other thing going on in your engine. Keep up the good work.

[@bradwilliams5242]

36 mm flat slid or a vmMikuni round slide might be easier

[@brentchild5240]

Most fuel pressure regulators use a return line. Excess fuel is sent back to the tank. Check to see if yours requires a return. Fuel comes from the pump to the regulator . The regulator then sends desired pressure to the carb and returns excess pressure back to the tank. I wonder if that kinked off line is intended to be your return. Great job, you’re almost there.

[@ronbradshaw7404]

Brent is right, try that.

[@BTR2018]

What if you go to a fuel injected carburetor so that it would be possibly to tune it?🇺🇦🤙🤘possible a fuel return?

[@jasonpaupst9771]

i was going to say the same thing also going with either a lighter waist gate spring or heavier spring

[@BumarAssassin]

There is I have this regulator there is a return on the back and he should return to the top of his gas tank

[@stephenmidkiff]

Yes! The return is what bleeds off the excess pressure...

[@masonbabineaux1662]

It’s definitely almost there don’t give up on it, the boosted bois did a turbo 400cc in a shopping cart maybe you can get some info from that video. I’m not sure if it is hurting you in this situation but maybe a ported head would help out

[@dylanfurr8926]

They are fuel injected

[@masonbabineaux1662]

I thought so

[@hunterpetrovich1154]

Theirs is a 200cc

[@dakotahicks6725]

Boostedbois did a 125 or 200 cc shopping cart definitely not a 400 I watched all the videos from start of the build to the last video they released of it after the efi swap and turbo kit

[@ninaallen7849]

That fuel injection kit they got tho is what he needs

[@SG-Cichlids]

Get an oil restrictor for the turbo. Fuel pressure needs to be zero when not in boost. If you can't get it to zero then set it to say five psi then rejet for the extra fuel. Smaller pilot lower needle exc.. then use the regulator to raise the fuel pressure per pound of boost. Last but not least get a afr gage. You could use it tuning your other quads also.

[@MaxsGarajMahal]

The oversize main isn't going to make up for the underserving accelerator pump either for off idle. Lag won't go away until accelerator pump is squirting early enough and proper amount. Bet he gets her running soon.

[@alexsosa3106]

Man I was really hoping u had gotten it right .dont give up 💪💪

[@backyardbangers1012]

Been one of your best series2. Don't give up mate. Lower boost or different carby. Over 50k people wanna see you get it craking

[@mattleggett5609]

Brother ive been watching your stuff for a while now and always love and respect all content, anyway if someone is able to achieve this it could absolutely be you my man just may need a bit more patience and im fully confident in your ability to get it done!! That said im kinda curious if you can convert from carburetor to EFI and maybe thats the extra step to making it come to life 🤔. Good luck man and keep on sending it bro, thanks for all you do💯🍻

[@taefully]

Love it keep grinding bro love the content

[@brenontech]

don’t give up yet. you got this!!!

[@davidmayes6960]

Keeep at it man!!!!! Gotta be a fuel problem. Somehow the fuel has to be maintained.. Hope ya keep it going.

[@andyscott21]

Couple of questions, should you not have run it in before going back to the turbo to let everything settle before adding boost? Also please for the love of God get rid of that flange on that downpipe 🤣

[@brucepickess8097]

I was waiting for someone to say that, it was really bugging me as well.😏👍

[@boogerfromthatmovie4257]

tbh if the cams are already broke in your good just send it lol rings and bearings are good after a few heat cycles and an oil change, plus its better to break them into the full rpm range using them normally after you drain your break in oil. cams are the only thing that need a "break in" for 20 minutes at 2500 rmps so you can harden the lobes. after that you are good to go to just use it and trash on it. look at grandma car barn finds...oh its so nice it's only got 30k original on it... as soon as you open it up it starts smoking worse than cheech and chong because the thing never seen over 2k rpms..they get used to babying them. a redline a day keeps the mechanic away your car/quad anything with a motor will last longer if you rev the shit out of it once in awhile lol.

[@backyardrestorations]

He wants it on there because it’s part of the oem pipe but it bothers me too.

[@WOTSmallengines]

At least tac weld it so it's not all over the place. 🤣

[@stephenbailey0278]

That flange looks like a pair of bulldog tin snips might be able to cut it off. I would use that, or a dremel.

[@jozsef6453]

Might be easier to just trasfer all these stuff onto a fuel injected quad and try with that

[@jsvallee567]

that's exactly what i was thinking ! should be easier i guess

[@c0munguyforcaz]

Wow amazing engineering and creativity

[@derekparmer753]

Definitely a smaller plug gap is needed when you get into boost. Most carbs need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator which raises fuel pressure 1:1 per pound of boost.

[@seanl9222]

Put the turbo between the carb and the engine so the turbo pulls through. Many old motorcycle turbo kits work this way. Its also great for packaging. The carb cant pull fuel out of the bowl if there is pressure pushing it back in. That is why carburetors built for boost are of a much different design.

[@wesleyburgstra8657]

Eey man. Love your video’s man !! I think the pressure regulator needs a return to tank so it can bleed pressure

[@loganmaaskant1155]

Don’t give it up build it up very cool content love it❤️

[@kevinhumphrey932]

Try using a AFR gauge to help you tune it I've used one in the past and they will help you alot when tuning it

[@andrewa4004]

I'm sorry about that man, you did really good and you sure made some good videos on it! I'm excited to see what projects you start on next.

[@sambowman3289]

Don’t give up on it. Need to try a smaller spark plug gap. I bet when it gets to a higher boost it’s blowing the spark out.

[@aspenyukon6845]

(You don’t need the fuel pump or regulator) Pressurize the gas tank from the turbo reference line. Boost pressure into the gas tank should equalize the fuel pressure as the turbo spools and open the float push fuel into the engine.

[@KrustyQuad]

That not correct. In theory it may sound like it would work but the pressure in the fuel tank will not equalize with what's going into into the carb thru a small diameter vaccume line. The engine also pulls vaccume before boost so then itd be pulling thr fuel backwards... The setup he is using right now will work with a few changes. He needs to add a fuel return line from the regulator cause the pressure has no where to go but flooding tbe carb.. He also needs to add a plenum in the pressure side befkfe tbe carb... And tbst turbo is way to small the exhausr inlet is like half an inch...

[@aspenyukon6845]

2 carburetors would be a more interesting experiment to watch. One on the vacuum side of turbo. Boost line into the gas cap vent might work Lol

[@dennisbrooks186]

It wouldn't work b.c. the gas tank has a vent so it would never build pressure. Even if u plug the gas cap, u would then run out of fuel til the tank received new air to reduce the vacuum. Imo he needs a deff carb

[@aspenyukon6845]

Boost reference line into the gas cap vent.

[@BumarAssassin]

@@KrustyQuad is right on this one

[@markpalmiere427]

I wonder if a smart carb or lectron would better react to the sudden increase in fuel demand when the boost hits better than a conventional carb

[@BaldVulture87]

The problem is not the fuel demand it's the boost pressure running through a carb that is meant to work in vacuum..... This setup will never work.

[@Qweezy700]

Don’t give up brother.

[@MaNNeRz91]

A carb with a diaphragm slide would probably work better in this scenario. It automatically opens the slide depending on airflow into the carb giving you better fuel ratio control. Also gap the plug tighter 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@BlondieDread]

I think you should shorten your pipes. Think of a car turbo system. Usually turbo sits right off the exhaust manifold. very close to the engine. Think of air flow. The exhaust has a long way to travel on the 400. Just my opinion. Shorten the airflow. Maybe that will give you better spool.

[@redbeard_raccoon]

You really should switch out the oil feed system to an external oil tank, oil cooler and like an electric oil pump. Your oil flow is not sufficient enough and not cool enough for the addition of the turbo since you're not running coolant. Also, trying to turbocharge a single cylinder 4-stroke is going to be quite a pain considering the exhaust stroke and the intake stroke. Remember, the intake valve is closed when the exhaust valve is open, so trying to force more air into the single cylinder while it's trying to exhaust isn't going to "make boost" like you want it to. Do NOT expect the whoosh noises you're desperately trying to get. In this application, all you're really doing is making sure the forced induction is there for when the intake valve is open. For what you're trying to achieve, you should put the 400ex back to stock exhaust, intake, and fueling and get yourself at the very least a 2-cylinder, if not a 4-cylinder or you're going to keep blowing motors up trying to get the results you want, instead of getting the results you have.

[@louisjohnsonjr.4934]

Might need to find a carb setup for boost. Because the factory carb just wasn't meant for what your asking of it.

[@trxtech3010]

Hey man I know it's been a while since you worked on this. I hope you read this and take my suggestions! First thing I would have done double up the Cylinder Base gaskets to lower compression, put a "Stocke Replacment" JE Piston in or a Wiesco (I say "stock Replacment" because it's a forged piston with same compresion ratio), buy a turbine style inline Fuel Pump something simular to a Delph CFD0029... I noticed you have th FPR Return Blocked off, that won't do anything no matter what you do the fuel pressure is necause you always need to bypass fuel during idle and when you're not in boost, so plumb the retuen line back into the Fuel Tank somewhere. Now the FPR "reference" needs to be infront of the Carburetor infront of the Carburetor so that wa the FPR will see Vacuum during idle and lower RPMS and then it will get Bost Pressure during boost. Also you may want a Blow off Valve so that way whe you let off the throttle or wanting tp let it idle it opens and 100% by passes any boost that you do not wan't especially during idle it will be able to use Stock Hetting for idling. Now last you need to figure out a way to retard the ignition iming as the RPMS climb. Basicully you wanna think of it like this By pass all Fuel Pressure and Boost till you're into boost. You will also need to sand a more aggressive Taper on the first 12mm of the Slide Need. You do not wanna go wiith bigger jetting like you would think because now that you're flowing more air through which means you will have a much more powerfull "draft" accross the emulsion tube which which fuel pressure will autmaticully draw more fuel into the engine.

[@ajschooley7784]

Have you port polished the valves or upgraded your valves or anything to stage three such as your cam? Not sure if that'll work or what you have done to the quad hopefully that helps or gives a idea!

[@jameswarren423]

Hey man you get an A for effort you gave it the old college try and it’s all you can do! Sometimes you eat the bear and sometimes the bear eats you! It was a great build you tried and that’s all you can do👍🏼🤩 so keep up the great work though💪🏼

[@mjh5444]

New carb, a head spacer to lower compression and run positive pressure to the vent on gas tank. Also make sure youre using the right heat range on yor plug for the turbo

[@seffraymmon8492]

question. since u add turbo more psi fuel and oil pump along with top end rebuild wouldnt some type of tune or bigger engine or something to help compensate for the added boost?

[@tylerwilliams3365]

Love the videos keep head up if anyone can do it it’s you keep up great content

[@smokeyou812]

This is mostly above me with the tubo so I bid you Good luck my Wisconsin friend and will smile and nod as you adjust and make changes. Lol

[@SG-Cichlids]

Did you put a little extra gap in the piston rings for the extra heat from being turbo'd? Also is that a rubber coupler going from the header to the 90 into the turbo? No bueno

[@henrimcgowan5589]

You need a wide band o2 sensor and data logger to see what the fuel ratio is doing under load

[@kurtyoung6769]

You need to replace the needle and seat with a set up for a fuel pump. The hole in the seat should be smaller because it provides more PSI at the sealing surface of the needle.

[@NPC-PS4]

Watched all the vids and Damm I wsh you got it right it was awsome

[@whitey2shotpewpew825]

There's gotta be a local tuner shop around. Just a smaller version of what they do. I bet they'd be glad to help on a unique project.

[@jerrysqwirts9108]

It’s gotta be that pump. Last one was not enough this one is too much. Gotta be a happy medium somewhere. Definitely just need to take a brake but you have a great following for the project and hey you’ll be the first to do it to my knowledge!

[@thatonecarguy5999]

Your going to have to put the carb on intake of turbo. That carb just won’t work blow through. Get a good gravity short ram into the turbo with carb and try to get turbo as close as possible to head. You got this. This is just my recommendation

[@slickfixjeff]

I know with my water regulator, you have to turn it in (clockwise) to reduce the pressure. Try that.

[@kodierennaker5487]

joe id recommend the wastegate spring may be only 5 lb and with turbos u have to knock timing usually unless its self learning but why i say waste gate spring is because itll make over a certain boost then cut the excess out its what its for and itd limit boost

[@feelthearth]

Have you tried running the bowl vent to the boost signal? The bowl has to be the same pressure as the manifold pressure or it won't draw fuel under boost

[@robsmith1752]

Good concept good content what u need is a independent control module (computer) fuel injection heavier valve springs? I would look into maybe go-kart fuel injection systems single band wide band 02 sensor? Just kicking around some ideas either way always informative to watch and entertaining

[@donoosterbaan2288]

Only seen this latest video but just one bit of advice, if you don't pressurize the carburetor bowl so it matches the boost coming into the carburetor how do you expect it to draw fuel.? If you're intake track is pressurized it's going to blow into the carburetor instead of drawing fuel out. Just my two cents

[@raptor31able]

You need a wideband o2 sensor and tune afr for 12.5 to 1 and do plug chops and adjust from there.

[@austindeaton1940]

Turbos and carbs together suck to tune you’ll get it there eventually

[@barriehunt8860]

That exhaust flange cut it off😂😂😂

[@robertkeime4907]

Great video

[@jeremymullen5378]

🔥pretty cool man, def a killer build. Forsure carb issues. Don’t give up Man U will get it. Stock jetting, no fuel pump, that carb is setup for gravity pressure, get it running smooth first, yes will be lean. Then slowly jet up and keep looking at plug till looks creamy. To me fells like will be hard to achieve it all with a carb setup trying to force all that air flow and moving that fuel into cylinder. Maybe work lil better with efi engine? Just a thought 💭

[@melissadavis370]

A buddy turbocharged his harley and he was having same troubles but later figured it out and talk about seeing the face on guys faces when a rocket Flys by and they look and see he is right there beside them is funny

[@michaelhawkins4731]

It has a vacuum slide in the carburetor and with you putting booth reference into all the ports on the carburetor it is pushing the slide close

[@shanewilliams8768]

Weld a flange onto the base of a big slip on pipe, and bolt it straight to the turbo exhaust housing for simple center exhaust

[@Sandbowl84]

Is there a return pipe from the carb to the tank? Reminds me of a problem i had before where the fuel return pipe was blocked on a yamaha Fazer. The return pipe used to relieve the pressure into the fuel filler cap and back into the tank. Might be way off but just a thought, love your vids anyway 👍

[@shedenvy691]

Would one of those fancy lectron carburettors make a difference?

[@Ruger5_56]

Maybe look into getting a mini squirt that way you can adjust the ignition timing when under boost also try regulating boost pressure to 3 pounds that way it can spool lower in the rpm range and hold a steady boost pressure without lagging so long before it comes on

[@titletownclowns1545]

The accelerator pump under the black throttle plate is leaking. When you hit the throttle, the accelerator arm is actuated by the throttle mechanism. Take off the black plate on the right side of the carb and watch the fuel flow. Pops

[@davesplace1307]

Need to try fuel injection next. No carburetor. Look into it and see about it. We as the audience need to see this done correctly!!!!

[@staygold902]

Might check out a few grind hard plumbing videos I know they have successfully put turbos on a couple atv and dirtbike engines.

[@ninaallen7849]

Did you try tightening the plug gap if it's making 5 pounds then cutting out maybe it's blowing the spark out

[@IrnMaiden304]

Have you tried changing the clip position on the needle in the slide ?

[@skylerbarnhart5889]

Did you do a colder plug like probably 2 lower then recommended from stock

[@DarrenShinn]

It might want to go, but it just isn't. Lol! Good luck bro!

[@luisedgardoguerra7289]

You could try a Keihin FCR 39mm or 41mm carburetor. The carburetor you are using is a diaphragm carburetor and when I charge the turbo it makes the carburetor plunger go to the maximum and you lose control.

[@scottlambert4153]

Check to see how well waste gate puck is sealing at exhaust housing, you may need to throw a helper spring on the waste gate actuator to keep it sealed, if tension seems to be lite. Secondly see how much material there is where puck seals up to the exhaust housing, if there’s seems to be a lot, scribe it and port it out to where there’s just enough material that it will seal, I’ve seen that cause turbo surge Numerous times. Good luck...

[@stangracer04]

You need a plenum for the boost tube so there’s a chance for a gulp of air basically a empty box welded on the tube so it’s not just pulses of air every stroke. Your welcome have a nice day

[@shanewilliams8768]

Turbos only really make boost under load, that's why it free revs no problem. The easiest solution for you may be an auxiliary fuel injector in the intake made to come on when boost comes in. You definitely need way fatter main jet and make sure the fuel bowl isn't running dry as well for the current set up

[@tomaattixd]

dont give up

[@quinnswett2926]

you need a boost cut off gauge that's adjustable so can set to like 5 psi so she don't pop again unless you build that motor

[@Brightracing777]

I wonder if a flat slide carburetor would work? Maybe the butterfly carb doesn’t like the boost.

[@metal-pe8ux]

Is that surging being caused by un-controlled boost? Ie: un-controlled boost upsetting fuel mixtures under load?.. try boost controller/boost tee and keep it at six or seven pounds boost and tune fuel around that..

[@kasuraga]

i feel like a draw through setop even with the piping length would work better

[@ridgedbullet2420]

The backfiring on decel is lean. Go up to a 180 or 185 jet and if possible install an efi kit

[@WOTSmallengines]

How is revving the snot out of it when it's not right, a good idea?

[@ch-ir8ld]

this dude is persistent

[@jakeniewold3094]

If and when you make boost your going to be on the factory rev limiter. Kinda pointless but it's been fun to watch. Are you giving up or still going to try and get it working?

[@jeremyjones2191]

Don't read you comments and blow it up 10 times...geez it's annoying!!

[@RT-vo2vh]

OK Karen, everyone has heard all yer whining ... am i giving you the attention you desire?

[@BaldVulture87]

Those carbs are meant to work with vacuum, if you put pressure in there(boost) you will have serious fuel issues. You need a blow-through carb for boost applications. Would of been far simpler to boost an EFI(fuel injected) quad and add a tunable ECU to adjust fuel tables and ignition with software on a laptop... makes things so much easier.

[@apenationamcgme9063]

would it work if you tried putting the carb in front of the turbo?

[@andymoreau7741]

I don't know how your settup is but you need to have your float bowl vent tube plumbed in to the pressure side so that the float bowl stays the same pressure as the boost

[@kevinhumphrey932]

Possibly check the spark plug gap and possibly change the heat range of the spark plug

[@countrytimefunny]

did you try to adjust the wastgate to 4.5-5 lbs? when it lights off and surges to 10+ your fuel system cant keep up!

[@sgamerboy-hp4ni]

This is what everyone needs a turbocharged 400 because every time I get on mine it just isn't fast enough lol

[@kennynelson2269]

Needs a pull through serup and it'll be a beast!!

[@user-ls8gr4ej6q]

Tighten up your sparkplug gap a lot just so you can barely have a small gap, it sounds like when your are starting to build boost the pressure from the turbo is blowing out the fire on the spark plug, had the same problem with a Chevy 6.0 built motor with twin turbos and that was the problem, it may or may not fix problem but that is what it sounds like, Give it a try and good luck and I hope this helps.

[@dannywilliams1944]

Did you try tightening up the gap on the spark plug

[@infinitygarage1618]

I love reading these comments. 90% of the people writing them have absolutely no idea what they are talking about.