Turbografx-16 - Part 3 - Composite AV Mod

I complete a Composite AV mod on the Turbografx-16 to finish off this project. I've now got a fully working TG-16.
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Thanks for watching

[@emmettturner9452]

The CoreGrafx definitely requires the shielding to connect different ground planes. I had mine apart this weekend and noted that there was no ground to the EXT port. When I removed the shielding. I recalled that Mad Ms. Lemon had this issue with a white PC Engine in her Super SD System 3 review. It seems that she got one that had been RGB-modded and the modder tossed the shielding. She restored the ground connections and went on with the review!

[@mltrymn1213]

I started ordering from console 5 because of you. Love the fireball they add in their packaging. Its a nice little bonus. Pretty decent part selection and you really can't beat the prices.

[@KISSbestfan]

Finally I got to watch this series! Here where I live TG was almost unknown. Some people knew about the PC Engine from Japan, but not TG. A cool console, even though its still 8 bit despite the 16 in its name haha. Cheers!

[@salsbar]

Love your videos. It might have been easier to solder the wires to that TRRS port before mounting it in the case. Glad you got it working!

[@ericbadder1552]

Composite is the best! Totally worth it!

[@cameroncarlisle3433]

Great video! Would love to see more repairs and mods like these in the future

[@TheFlameeyes]

The name of the connectors you're looking for us "Dupont style". And they become magic when you manage to crimp them yourself, rather than relying on whatever's out there :)

[@povertygamer]

Was just going to say the same thing. They were a godsend when I RGB modded an RCA CRT I had laying around

[@mjc0961]

Holy crap, I was just looking for this sort of thing but couldn't find anything searching because I had no idea what to search for. Popped what you said in and immediately the thing I had wanted was on screen. Thank you so much for this comment!

[@TheFlameeyes]

@@mjc0961 you're welcome! You may want to look at bigclive's video for the tools syggesrions kzbin.info/www/bejne/eomvnqh6l8h_eK8 It saved my sanity as I was using a horrible tool at first.

[@Tiger351]

The TRRS socket looks slick on that AV mod, definitely the way to go with it. Hope the SMS is the next project, they generally get a lot less attention on console repair channels than other systems.

[@RetroRepairs]

I've actually started on that one

[@retrogameon]

I ordered a power circuit tune-up kit for the Lynx from Console5 a month ago and following the tracking, it's been all over America! As of ten days ago, it's in Chicago. I guess there aren't many flights operating between the US and Australia right now :(

[@RetroRepairs]

Funny story, I ordered a Lenovo laptop once, it wound up shipping from The Lenovo warehouse, to Chicago, then to Nome, AK, then to vancouver than to me. Sometimes logistics doesn't make much sense

[@emmettturner9452]

Those are called "DuPont connectors" when you were testing AV output. You can also buy RCA connectors with terminal blocks on the back for security cameras and stuff. A year ago I happened to have those handy handy when I first did this so I used M-F DuPont connectors with those to test my RF-only white PC Engine. It was sold as untestested junk so I definitely wasn't going to mod it before testing it! Last week I got an RF-only CoreGrafx (PAL-modded with an RF modulator and 50hz mod board replacing the DIN5). I only have NTSC equipment so I gutted the mod board and was left with no other video output (EXT port only). Earlier this week I got another RF-only white PC Engine that was sold as "Defective" though it tested fine. I already had about 6 RF-only TurboGrafx-16 consoles including one with a video issue. Point is, the solder-less testing trick for composite video has come in handy over and over and over. ;)

[@bryancurrier1743]

Man wish I could find some of these older systems for good prices needing repairs all I find are junk for crazy expensive prices but love the videos man

[@JuicyJakeRepairs]

1:35 this is actually quite common for alot of newer products 🙂 (Normally its called Ground Chassis) although they normally have more points than just using the metalwork

[@UndeadSpaceMonkey1]

I like to watch how people flux, you sir are incredible.

[@Sluretje]

Thanks for the video very informative and also relaxing to watch!

[@bryanchapdelaine926]

yay i love these videos keep up the good work! :)

[@tigermike74]

When I have thick cables that need bending, I will heat them up with a heat gun. It softens it up so it will squeeze around the posts and bends much easier.

[@fmdof]

Part 4, repairing the broken board of the other tg16 you got

[@eduardolarrymarinsilva76]

That's a complete loss. Trying to repair that would be a waste of time.

[@thecaptain2281]

@@eduardolarrymarinsilva76 No it wouldn't be a total loss, I've done repairs like that. Not saying it wasn't an involved process, but it is very doable.

[@Sluretje]

Just get the components of that board and dump it waste of time and effort...

[@TheSkaldenmettrunk]

I love your AV Mod's.

[@JetScreamer_YT]

I did audo video similar. But, I used RCA cord to the collars. It fits with the power cord in the notch with the back of the TG16. Looks good. Was about free.

[@PixelOverload]

WiFi, Bluetooth, and other such wirelessly connected devices can wreak havoc on older unshielded RF (and certain analogue audio) devices, possibly a culprit for the video noise if you have a cellphone for example nearby, or a router in the room

[@emmettturner9452]

The Old Skool PGS ControlPad for TG-16/PCE has a DIN8 plug modeled off the original TG-16 DIN8. I almost feel like it's worth buying to gut that and throw your junk cable into the knock-off pad. ;) Console5 has a replacement cable modeled off the original PCE's 8-pin mini-DIN. It's convoluted, but if I were in your situation I would have used the replacement cable you got on a Japanese multitap so that it would fit the console, then I would've used Console5's PCE replacement cable on the ControlPad and moved the ControlPad cable to the original TurboPad. You could then use the PCE adapter included with the Old Skool PGS ControlPad to use both controllers with your Japanese multitap on your American system. It will also give you MUCH more length and let you use cheaper/more-available Japanese controllers if you ever decide to fill it out. The only hang-up here is that Old Skool cheaped out and didn't use a disconnect so you'll have to salvage that or solder directly.

[@ordovice1]

Why didn't you do the ring soldering outside of the case and then put it in?

[@julianocs87]

Exactly what I thought at the time.

[@julianocs87]

@@Gal2k6 looking forward to see your videos on the art of soldering.

[@thepthepthep]

I winced when I watched that.

[@austinlindquist2943]

He doesn't have a clamp to hold the piece, something he should get asap.

[@Evaldas256]

Genesis' and Mega Drive Model 1s are no different to getting the same incredibly fuzzy signal when no rf shielding is present.

[@seanvinsick5271]

Warm the cable to bend it around the post. It'll be more malleable and fit easier. Use your heat gun on the lowest setting.

[@specialformula14]

Oah man. I was going to do this mod years ago but never got around to doing it. Totally forgot about it actually Today I'm going to do this mod. But just 3 rca jacks on the back

[@RetroRepairs]

It's convenient how simple it is, no board to convert a signal or anything needed, just wires and jacks

[@specialformula14]

RetroRepairs I remember looking up that green plastic composite device on eBay. Why they didn't just use black ... I duno. That thing looks terrible 😂

[@RetroRepairs]

Almost anything would be better - black, white, blue, even orange to match the tg16 logo

[@noapparentfunction]

@@RetroRepairs if it's not difficult to take apart the adapter i would probably consider sanding & spraypainting it black.

[@RetroRepairs]

I don't have one, rather do this mod for under ten bucks than buy that thing

[@MarcoGPUtuber]

Hi Adam, I do have a question. If the TRRS port is directly soldered to the motherboard, wouldn't it make it difficult to repair and pull the board out and you'd need to unscrew the port from the chassis? Wouldn't it be easier for future repairability to cut those wires and then crimp a connector that joins them together?

[@RetroRepairs]

That could definitely make for a nice convenient addition. Most mods are direct soldered like this, but if you wanted to go the extra step, then sure. At least with this specific trrs jack, since you mount it from inside and tighten the nut on the outside, it will be easier to remove if necessary than most rca jacks which are mounted from the outside

[@Aaramlias]

I have a Turbo Grafx system that has issues with it's rf as well. I'll have to see if your video helps any. Hopefully it's not something that's out of my league to repair. I had someone try to repair it one time and then just gave up on it without even trying.

[@El1988Che]

Nice work! However the RF modulador is missing the cover! It's not supposed to have an exposed pcb. That might be why the signal isn't great.

[@RetroRepairs]

I took it off to take a look, but wound out cutting that part as it achieved nothing and just extended the video. The cover is back on

[@MarcoGPUtuber]

Yay! More Retro Open Heart Surgery!

[@DarKnightKilla13]

Only 7 mins in, thoroughly enjoying it, but curiosity has killed the cat here... your hands are covered in paint or something, haha. Curious as to why, is all 🤣

[@RetroRepairs]

Yeah, paint. Doing some painting this week.

[@DarKnightKilla13]

@@RetroRepairs Don't blame you, perfect time for it. Just repainted my bathroom 2 or 3 days ago, so totally understandable. About 25 mins into the video now, great and informative as always, keep it up!

[@JamesSmith-rf8wo]

Just wondering... why not RGB?

[@PhaQ2]

Final mod on this should be an L.E.D. to show when powered up.

[@DarKnightKilla13]

Meant to ask this sooner, sorry for double-commenting... what do you use A: for a soldering gun, B: for your mini screwdriver set, and C: for your lighting? I always find that my lighting is so abysmal that I'm putting or using (or having somebody hold) flashlights and everything just to get a good view of things. Your lighting seems pretty darn effective, and I'd like to incorporate something like that in my own workstation.

[@MarcoGPUtuber]

You shouldn't have to apologise for double commenting. Comments help the algorithm increase visibility of the channel and make it more likely to put these videos in the recommended feeds of potential viewers/subscribers. Comment to your heart's content and may Retro Repairs hit the big one million!

[@DarKnightKilla13]

@@MarcoGPUtuber True, I know... but I also don't want to clutter the comment section for no reason if I can avoid it. As someone who does livestreaming and minimalistic YT stuff, I know sometimes it can be irritating.

[@RetroRepairs]

My sodlering station is a Hakko fx-888d. It's a pretty decent station which isn't very expensive. Lighting i have a fluorescent light bar mounted on the underside of a shelf im working under. It's about 20" wide so does a nice job of not leaving too many shadows. Screwdriver set is just a cheap precision set from amazon: "Best 88B"

[@DarKnightKilla13]

@@RetroRepairs Thanks, kind sir! Hmm, yeah my lighting always seems to leave shadows in the most awkward places. Much appreciated on the responses, sir.

[@odaddy47]

I fix it has many cool screedriver sets. They will last you a life time.

[@cyo_corner]

This option was way way way cheaper than buying that green $30 block on ebay. I suppose you could do the same and get component video or even RGB video provided you have the pinout. Do people still want these composite modded TG16 on ebay?

[@RetroRepairs]

Tg16 still sells for quite a bit, yes

[@normannoguera3164]

Hi Adam love your videos man you keep making them I will keep watching Can you do Atari 2600 video mod I appreciate it man thank you take care

[@gregjarvis1232]

Hi Adam just wanted to let you know there is a alternative to the the Atari 5200 controller someone has made a new controller look up retrorgb website might be worth a look seeing how bad the original 5200 controller's are

[@georg6876]

cool

[@kam_mil]

It's not weird that the RF shield makes the RF output look better...

[@RetroRepairs]

It actually is. The shield is to reduce interference going into and out of the electronics of the system. More often than not, it has a minimal effect. Ive used SNES, NES and N64 without shielding at all. It's there for FCC regulations more than anything

[@kam_mil]

woah, someone replied to me. I get it now.

[@THRILLERCRUNCH]

when you speed up you could maybe put some non copyright music over it would be better

[@donnhussey568]

The hell did you do to your finger, man?

[@RetroRepairs]

Paint

[@donnhussey568]

@@RetroRepairs Your right index finger looked like it had some sort of burn mark on it. Maybe I am seeing things, lol

[@RetroRepairs]

@@donnhussey568 white primer and a small cut. Nothing to worry about, paint just wouldn't all come off.

[@odaddy47]

No Cap replacement????

[@RetroRepairs]

Fortunately the tg16 isn't known for being plagued with bad caps like some. Other systems. These ones appeared to be in decent shape, but it would be good preventative maintenance in the future. Not sure if I'll do a video on it or not given how many there are.

[@RetroRepairs]

The turboduo though is a whole other beast, known for Leaky caps

[@ZackMuffinMan]

🐨

[@StormsparkPegasus]

RF is utterly useless, I'd rather not play games at all than use that. I can sort of excuse consoles released in the 70's only having that, but in the 80's it was unacceptable. This thing seriously didn't even have composite video out? I really dislike it when you have to mod a console to even use it. I had to to that with an NES toploader I got on Ebay - didn't have any video output and had to mod it to use it. By the late 90's/early 2000's I no longer had any device even capable of using RF. Of course, NOW my setup is digital-only so the only way I could use composite, or even S-video or component, is with an external device like a Framemeister.

[@RetroRepairs]

It's definitely annoying. Especially since this was meant to compete with the NES and came out around the same time as the Genesis - both of which supported composite right out of the box. The NES Toploader was interesting though, but I guess since it was made as the "Cheap" system, as they'd rather you buy a SNES instead.

[@StormsparkPegasus]

@J Fz I mean HAVING RF as an option is never a problem. On consoles from the 80's and later the best way to do that is an external RF converter that hooks to the regular A/V output (IIRC this is how the original front loading NES did it). Having it as the only output is totally unacceptable. The 70's is the only time I can see it being acceptable as the only option.

[@Spiff99]

As mentioned in the video, there was an official add-on called the TurboBooster. It added the composite video & stereo out. They also had the TurboBooster-Plus, which along with the composite video / stereo, it allowed for saving games to memory instead of having to rely on save codes.

[@davidmcgill1000]

What's strange about it is that RF always seemed to be a lot more complex than just having raw outputs. Why didn't they put the RF module as an external device that could've been sold separately?

[@StormsparkPegasus]

@@davidmcgill1000 Exactly. That's how it should've been done in the 80's and later.

[@NotAnotherFortress]

First!!